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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/culinaryhandbookOOfelliala 


WTe 


Culinary  Handbook 

By  Charles  Fellows 

The  Most  Complete  and  Serviceable 

Reference  Book  to  Things 

Culinary  Ever  Published 


Published  by 
THE  HOTEL  MONTHLY  PRESS 

JOHN  WILLY,  Inc. 
950  Merchandise  Mart 

Chicago  54,  111. 


PRINTED   IN 


PREFACE. 

This  book  has  been  prepared  with  the  aim  of  gathering  into  a  single  volume  the  largest  practi- 
cable collection  of  every  day  recipes  suited  to  the  catering  fraternity  iu  the  English  language,  mak- 
ing it  as  nearly  as  possible  the  choicest  and  most  complete  work  of  its  kind. 

The  name  which  is  given  it  indicates  the  principle  upon  which  the  book  has  been  made:  namely, 
that  it  might  serve  as  a  book  of  reference;  as  a  comprehensive  exhibit  of  the  growth,  and  condi- 
tion of  the  requirements  of  the  traveling  public. 

The  work  is  not  a  cook  book,  and  does  not  pretend  to  teach  cookery,  yet  to  those  that  have  al- 
ready received  the  fundamental  ideas  of  cookery,  it  will  be  found  to  be  the  best  theoretical  teache- 
obtainable,  as  it  clearly  shows  what  the  combinations  of  the  dishes  are  and  what  they  look  like,  and 
how  they  should  be  served. 

Necessarily  limited  in  extent,  it  yet  contains  more  practical  matter  than  any  similar  publica- 
tion, presenting  over  four  thousand  selections.  It  is  believed  that  of  the  culinary  writers  for  the 
catering  profession  acknowledged  by  the  intelligent  and  cultivated  to  be  great,  none,  whether 
Foreign  cr  American  have  heretofore  written  the  dishes  in  plain  English  without  the  foreign  affec- 
tation of  "A  LA",  an  affectation  when  appearing  on  the  Bill  of  Fare  causing  the  guest  to  expect 
much,  and  disappointing  him  by  receiving  little. 

The  dusty  road  traveled  so  much  by  other  writers  in  makmg  their  books  contain  five  times  as 
many  pages  as  are  necessary  has  been  avoided,  and  we  hope  that  one  of  the  special  merits  of  this 
volume  is  its  brevity. 

With  these  brief  explanations.  The  Culinary  Handbook  is  placed  before  the  catering  fraternity, 
with  the  hope  that  it  will  be  deemed  worthy  of  its  title.  ^ 

The  Author. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ABSINTHE— A  liqueur  made  principally   fromALMONDS— The  best  for  culinary  purposes  is 


wormwood,  anise,  angelica,  coriander  seeds  and 
alcohol,  sometimes  adulterated  with  aromatic 
resins  and  dangerous  colorings;  its  uses  are 
chiefly  as  a  drink  diluted  with  water,  and  in 
making  many  of  the  American  mixed  drinks. 

ACETIC  ACID— The  foundation  of  all  vinegars; 
used  by  confectioners  when  making  icing  from 
whites  of  eggs,  to  facilitate  the  beating. 

AERATED  WATERS— Such  as  Vichy,  Apolli- 
naris,  Carlsbad  water,  Friedrichshall  bitter, 
etc.,  are  obtained  from  the  springs  of  nature 
and  recommended  for  the  relief  and  cure  of 
different  complaints  of  the  human  system.  Imi- 
tation aerated  waters  mostly  contain  sugar,  and 
are  sold  as  pop,  such  as  ginger  ale,  sarsaparilla, 
etc.  The  artificial  waters  are  simply  pure 
waters  sweetened,  flavored  and  charged  with 
carbonic  acid  gas.  In  Paris  oyster  shells  are 
washed,  and  broken  into  small  pieces,  and, 
under  the  action  of  vitriol,  yield  the  carbonic 
acid  gas. 

ALBUMEN — An  opaque  fluid  found  plentifully 
in  eggs,  meats,  fish  and  succulent  vegetables, 
especially  asparagus.  It  is  the  most  nourish- 
ing substance  known;  used  in  its  raw  state  from 
whites  of  eggs  by  cooks  chiefly  in  clarifying 
purposes. 

ALCOHOL — A  colorless  liquid  obtained  from 
fermenting  sugar;  is  found  in  all  wines  and 
spirits  and  is  the  intoxicating  quality  of  them. 
It  is  largely  used  in  making  flavoring  extracts, 
by  diluting  the  oil  of  the  flavor  required  with 
the  alcohol.  Wood  alcohol  obtained  at  any 
drug  store  is  the  best  and  cleanest  material  to 
be  used  in  singeing  poultry  and  game. 

ALLIGATOR  PEAR— A  fruit  found  in  the  West 
Indies  and  Mexico,  but  can  be  bought  at  most 
of  the  fruit  stores  in  season;  the  large  green 
ones  are  the  best;  they  are  served  the  same  as 
canteloupes,  or  sliced  into  a  salad  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt  and  the  juice  of  a  lime. 

ALLSPICE— The  product  of  the  pimento  shmb, 
used  as  a  food  flavoring.  When  ground  it  has 
a  graining  of  a  ruby  coloring;  purchased  in  its 
ground  state,  is  often  adulterated  with  mustard 
busks. 


the  Jordan;  it  is  about  an  inch  long,  flat  with  a 
clear  brown  skin,  sweet  and  rather  tough.  In 
making  almond  soup  seven-eighths  sweet  and 
one-eighth  bitter  almonds  should  be  used. 

SALTED  ALMONDS— Made  by  blanching,  skin- 
ning, and  frying  them  in  butter  oil  till  nicely 
browned,  then  dusting  with  salt;  make  a  nice 
appetizer,  or  hors  d'oeuvre. 

DEVILLED  ALMONDS— Made  like  salted  al- 
monds, but  after  salting,  well  dusted  with 
cayenne  pepper. 

ALUM — A  white  astringent  salt,  often  used  to 
whiten  flour,  to  quickly  clear  gin,  to  improve 
the  color  of  inferior  red  wines. 

ANCHOVIES— The  Dutch  are  always  cleaned  of 
their  scales.  The  French  are  not,  and  are 
larger.  Anchovy  paste  bought  on  the  markets 
is  often  adulterated  with  red-ochre  and  Veni- 
tian  red. 

ANCHOVY  CANAPES— Slices  of  fried  bread, 
one-quaiter  inch  thick,  spread  with  anchovy 
paste  or  butter,  a  filleted  anchovy  on  top,  the 
edges  decorated  with  minced  whites  of  hard 
boiled  egg. 

ANCHOVY  AIGRETTES— Filleted  anchovies 
washed,  then  laid  for  three  hours  in  a  pickle  of 
olive  oil,  vinegar  and  red  pepper;  taken  up, 
drained,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried  a  light  color 
in  very  hot  fat;  served  garnished  with  lobster 
coral  and  sprigs  of  parsley. 

/J^CHOVY  TOAST— Slices  of  toast  spread  with 
a  mixture  made  of  three-fifths  essence  of  an- 
chovies, one-fifth  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  and 
one-fifth  minced  filleted  anchovies  and  chopped 
parsley. 

ANCHOVY  ALUMETTES— Preserved  ancho- 
vies in  oil,  drained,  rolled  in  very  thin  pie  paste, 
fried;  served  garnished  with  fried  parsley. 

ANCHOVY  FRITTERS  —  Filleted  anchovies 
coiled  up,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried  a  light 
color  in  hot  fat;  served  garnished  with  fried 
parsley. 

ANCHOVY  TARTINES— Circles  of  brown  bread 
spread  with  anchovy  paste,  decorated  with 
thinly  sliced  gherkins  alternately  with  white  oC 
hard  boiled  egg. 


2037845 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ANCHOVY  BASKETS— Hard  boiled  eggs,  part 
of  the  white  cut  away  to  form  an  oval  basket, 
yolks  removed  and  pounded  to  a  paste  with  an- 
chovy essence,  seasoned  with  lemon  juice  and 
cayenne  pepper,  colored  lightly  with  carmine 
or  cochineal,  baskets  refilled;  served  garnished 
with  watercress. 

ANCHOVY  CROUTONS— A  paste  of  three-fifths 
anchovy  essence,  one-fifth  grated  cheese  ind 
one-fifth  melted  butter  and  lemon  juice,  the 
paste  spread  on  fancy  cut  slices  of  fried  bread; 
served  with  a  coiled  anchovy  on  top. 

ANCHOVY  SANDWICH— Thin  slices  of  bread 
cut  into  shape  of  circles,  spread  with  the  pre- 
ceding mixture,  and  filleted  anchovies  laid 
between. 

ANCHOVIES  WITH  OLIVES— Anchovy  toast 
garnished  with  slices  of  stuffed  olives. 

ANCHOVY  CANAPES,  BERNE  —  Triangle 
shaped  pieces  of  fried  bread,  spread  with  an- 
chovy paste  or  butter,  the  edges  garnished  with 
minced  whites  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  minced 
yolks,  and  minced  green  pickles,  with  a  stuffed 
olive  in  the  center. 

ANCHOVY  BUTTER— Two  parts  of  butter  to 
one  part  of  anchovy  essence,  a  little  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  and  nutmeg,  thoroughly  mixed 
together. 

ANCHOVY  PASTE— Anchovies  filleted,  the  fil- 
lets rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  the  head  and 
bones  boiled  with  a  little  water  and  thickened 
with  flour,  strained  into  the  paste  obtained  from 
the  rubbing,  mixed;  when  cooled,  a  little  coch- 
ineal, walnut  catsup,  and  vinegar  added  to  give 
the  required  color  and  consistency. 

ANCHOVY  SAUCE— Anchovy  paste  or  butter 
worked  into  a  rich  brown  sauce,  or  some 
pounded  filleted  anchovies,  or  anchovy  essence, 
lemon  juice  and  cayenne  pepper  worked  into  a 
cream  or  butter  sauce. 

ANCHOVY  CREAM— Anchovy  paste  worked 
into  a  butter  sauce,  and  finished  with  whipped 
cream. 

ANCHOVY  STUFFING- Used  very  often  for 
stuffing  olives  and  small  game  birds.  One 
cupful  of  breadcrumbs  squeezed  out  of  milk, 
one  tablespoonful  of  minced  fried  onions,  four 
minced  fillets  of  anchovies,  one  teaspoonful  each 
of  minced  capers  and  chopped  parsley,  the 
whole  mixed;  if  used  for  stuffing  birds,  add  the 
birds  liver  minced. 

ANCHOVIES  POTTED— Anchovy  fillets  pound- 
ed and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  mixed  with 
ground  allspice  and  cayenne  pepper  to  taste, 
placed  into  small  jars,  pressed  down,  and  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  of  melted  lard  poured  over 
the  top,  to  seal  the  contents. 

ANCHOVY  SALAD— Shredded  fillets  of  salted 
anchovies  garnished  with  small  white  pickled 
onions,  capers  and  hard  boiled  eggs;  tarragon 
vinegar  sprinkled  over  the  anchovies.  Also 
shredded  lettuce  and  shredded  anchovies,  a  few 
minced  shallots,   all  mixed  together  dry,  then 


sprinkled  with  equal  parts  of  olive  oil  and  caper 
vinegar  beaten  together. 

ANCHOVY  CATSUP— Anchovies,  onions,  whole 
cloves,  mace,  peppers  and  ginger,  sugar  and  old 
ale,  brought  to  a  quick  boil,  then  slowly  sim- 
mered till  done,  strained  through  a  hair  sieve, 
cooled,  walnut  catsup  added;  bottled  for  use. 

ANCHOVY  FRITTERS— Thin  flour  pancakes 
spread  with  chicken  forcemeat,  cut  in  strips 
twice  the  size  of  anchovy  fillet,  which  is  laid  on 
one-half  of  the  strip,  the  other  half  folded  over, 
then  breaded  and  fried;  serve»^  garnished  with 
fried  parsley. 

ANCHOVY  OMELET— Beaten  eggs  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped  parsley,  made 
into  an  omelet,  the  center  enclosing  some  cooked 
fillets  of  anchovies;  served  with  equal  oarts  of 
tomato  and  espagnole  sauces  mixed  togetner. 

ANGEL  FOOD— A  light,  white,  kind  of  sponge 
cake. 

ANGELICA — A  green  preserved  stalk  resembling 
rhubarb,  used  to  decorate  cakes,  also  in  iced 
puddings,  ice  creams,  etc. 

ANILINE — A  chemical  product  of  petroleum; 
the  red  is  the  cheapest  and  best  for  culinary 
purposes,  besides  being  perfectly  harmless. 

ANISE — An  herb,  from  the  seeds  of  which  is  ex- 
tracted the  oil  of  anise;  a  liqueur  called  anis- 
ette is  made  from  the  oil;  a  small  proportion  of 
oil  of  anise  mixed  with  alcohol,  produces  es- 
sence of  aniseed,  used  in  flavoring  cakes  and 
confectionery. 

ANTELOPE — A  species  of  deer;  the  young  are 
best  for  culinary  purposes,  as  the  meat,  besides 
being  treated  in  all  the  same  ways  as  venison, 
is  light  enough  in  color  to  allow  of  being  larded, 
which  cannot  be  done  to  venison.  Red  meats 
should  never  be  larded,  on  account  of  their 
loss  of  blood  and  gravy  in  cooking. 

APPLES — About  twelve  really  good  kinds  are 
obtainable  by  the  steward,  for  hotel  purposes — 
Pound  sweets.  King,  Baldwins,  Spitzenbergs, 
Northern  spy,  Rhode  Island  greenings.  Golden 
pippins,  Johnathans,  Wine  saps.  Snow,  Shia- 
wasse  beauty,  Roxbury  russets,  Wageners. 
There  are  others,  but  these  are  among  the 
first  rank. 

APPLE  BAVAROISE— Apple  sauce,  flavored 
with  sherry  wine  and  lemon  juice,  with  enough 
gelatine  added  to  set  it,  the  whole  passed 
through  a  hair  sieve,  whipped  cream  stirred  in 
according  to  quantity  liked,  then  poured  into 
molds  and  allowed  to  set  till  firm;  served  with 
whipped  cream. 

APPLE  BUTTER— Peeled  apples  boiled  down 
in  cider  to  a  pulp  with  a  flavor  of  allspice,  the 
pulp  then  passed  through  a  fine  strainer. 

APPLES  BAKED— Good  firm  apples  cored,  the 
core  hole  filled  with  a  mixture  of  butter  and 
sugar  flavored  with  nutmeg,  then  placed  into  a 
pan  containing  a  little  water,  and  baked  till 
done. 

APPLE  CAKE — Apple  sauce  and  an  equal  quan- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


tity  of  batter  of  the  consistency  of  cream,  made 
of  flour,  milk,  eggs  and  sugar,  mixed  together 
and  baked  slowly  till  done;  when  nearly  done, 
the  top  dusted  with  sugar,  returned  to  oven  to 
get  a  glazed  appearance. 

APPLE  CHEESECAKES  —  Patty  pans  lined 
with  puff  paste,  filled  with  apple  marmalade 
containing  a  little  grated  lemon  rind  and  enough 
yolks  of  eggs  to  set. 

APPLE  CHARLOTTE— The  bottom  and  sides 
of  a  pan  or  mold  lined  with  thin  slices  of  but- 
tered bread,  the  interior  filled  with  thick  apple 
marmalade,  the  top  covered  with  slices  of  but- 
tered bread  half  an  inch  thick  dipped  in  a  mix- 
ture of  milk  and  eggs,  the  charlotte  then  baked 
a  fine  color,  turned  out  and  served  with  whip- 
ped cream. 

APPLE  CHUTNEY— A  pint  and  a  half  of  vine- 
gar, two  ounces  of  whole  ginger  bruised,  one 
ounce  of  chillies,  one  ounce  of  mustard  seed, 
two  ounces  of  salt,  twelve  ounces  of  sugar, 
boiled  slowly  for  forty-five  minutes,  then 
strained  through  a  hair  sieve;  when  cooled  the 
vinegar  thus  flavored  put  on  again  with  a  large 
onion  minced,  one  and  one-half  ounces  of 
minced  shallots,  two  ounces  of  sultana  raisins, 
and  two  and  one-half  pounds  of  peeled  and 
sliced  apples,  the  whole  boiled  till  apples  are 
pulpy,  then  placed  into  stone  jars  and  tied 
down  with  skin. 

APPLE  CREAM — Sweet  apple  sauce,  containing 
a  little  butter  and  whipped  whites  of  egg. 

APPLE  CROQUETTES— Thick  apple  marma- 
lade containing  soft  breadcrumbs  and  egg  yolks 
baked  till  set.  When  cold,  cut  in  strips  two 
inches  long  and  one  inch  thick,  breaded,  fried, 
and  served  with  orange  sauce. 

APPLE  CUSTARD— Apple  marmalade  mixed 
with  beaten  eggs  and  cream,  poured  into  a  pan 
or  dish,  and  baked  till  set. 

APPLE  DUMPLINGS— Cored  and  peeled  ap- 
ples enclosed  in  pie  paste,  baked,  boiled  or 
steamed  till  done,  served  with  a  sauce  or  with 
cream. 

APPLE  FLOAT— Cream  sweetened  and  flavored 
with  nutmeg  poured  in  a  dish  or  pan;  apple 
marmalade  containing  whipped  whites  of  egg, 
poured  in  the  centre;  baked  till  set. 

APPLE  FRITTERS— Slices  of  cored  apples, 
dipped  in  batter  and  fried  till  done;  served 
with  a  syrup  or  wine  sauce. 

APPLE  PIE — Thin  slices  of  apples,  sweetened 
and  spiced,  enclosed  between  an  upper  and 
lower  crust  of  pie  paste;  baked  till  done. 

APPLE  ICE— Apple  marmalade  flavored  with 
orange  juice,  thinned  with  water,  sweetened  to 
taste,  poured  into  a  freezer  and  froze. 

APPLE  CUSTARD  PIE— A  pie  dish  lined  with 
puff  paste,  filled  with  apple  marmalade  mixed 
with  cream  and  yolks  of  eggs;  baked  till  set. 

APPLE  CUSTARD  FRITTERS— Apple  mar- 
malade mixed  with  custard,  baked  till  set; 
when  cooled,  cut  in  slices,  breaded,  fried  and 


served  with  a  sauce. 
APPLES,  PORTUGESE  STYLE— Firm  apples 
cored,  peeled  and  simmered  in  a  thin  syrup 
till  barely  done,  taken  out,  drained,  the  core 
hole  filled  with  apricot  jam,  placed  on  a  dish, 
the  syrup  then  reduced  to  a  glaze,  and  poured 
over  them. 

APPLE  MERINGUE— Apple  pulp  in  a  dish,  a 
layer  of  fruit  marmalade  spread  on  it,  whipped 
whites  of  egg  and  sugar,  tastefully  spread  over 
all,  then  placed  in  oven  till  of  a  light  fawn 
color. 

APPLE  TART— A  pie  plate  lined  with  puff  paste 
with  a  raised  fancy  edge  to  it;  filled  two-thirds 
full  with  apple  marmalade  and  baked;  when 
done,  filled  up  with  a  boiled  custard,  the  in- 
terior edge  piped  round  with  meringue,  also  a 
fancy  centre;  returned  to  oven  till  of  a  fawn 
color. 

APPLE  SOUP— Minced  cooking  apples,  grated 
breadcrumbs,  and  water  each  one  part,  a  piece 
of  lemon  rind  and  a  flavoring  of  cinnamon, 
boiled  till  thoroughly  done,  the  whole  then 
passed  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  enough 
white  wine  added  to  form  a  soup  consistency. 

APPLE  PANCAKES- -Minced  apples  worked 
into  an  ordinary  wheat  pancake  mixture,  the 
pancakes  baked  in  the  usual  way,  and  served 
with  butter  and  sugar. 

APPLE  SHORTCAKE— Two  layers  of  cooked 
shortpaste  spread  between  with  apple  marma- 
lade, the  top  ornamented  with  whipped  cream; 
served  with  sweetened  and  flavored  cream. 

APPLE  COMPOTE— Cored  and  pared  apples 
simmered  in  a  boiling  syrup  till  thoroughly 
done,  remaining  whole. 

APPLE  ROLY  POLY— A  biscuit  dough  con- 
taining a  little  sugar,  rolled  out  thin,  spread 
with  minced  apples,  seasoned  with  grated  lemon 
rind,  cinnamon,  or  ground  cloves  according  to 
taste,  rolled  up,  the  ends  tucked  in,  tied  in  a 
cloth  for  boiling  (in  a  mold  for  steaming)  (in  a 
pan  for  baking);  served  with  a  sauce,  or  with 
sweetened  cream. 

APPLES  FRIED— Good  firm  apples,  peeled, 
cored,  cut  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  then 
dipped  in  milk,  rolled  in  flour,  and  fried  in 
very  hot  lard. 

APPLE  JOHNNY  CAKE- Slices  of  peeled  and 
cored  apples  in  a  buttered  baking  dish,  sweet- 
ened and  flavored,  a  pancake  batter  poured 
over  them;  baked  till  done  and  served  with  or 
without  currant  jelly. 

APPLE  MARMALADE— Sweetened  apple  sauce 
boiled  down  till  thick  enough  to  cling  to  a  spoon. 

APPLE  PUDDING— Basins  or  molds  lined  with 
a  suet  crust,  filled  with  slices  of  apples,  sweet- 
ened and  flavored  to  taste,  top  crust  put  on, 
the  basin  tied  over  with  a  cloth,  or  mold  cover 
placed  on  and  tied,  boiled  rapidly  till  done. 

APPLE  PUFFS— Minced  apples  fried  a  little  so 
as  not  to  break,  flavored  with  cinnamon  and 
sugar,    placed  on  squares  of  puff  paste,  the 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


edges  brought  to  a  top  centre  and  pinched  to- 
gether, brushed  over  with  beaten  egg  and 
baked. 

APPLE  COBBLER— A  pan  one  and  a  half 
inches  deep  lined  with  a  pie  paste,  filled  with 
apple  marmalade,  top  crust  put  on,  baked  and 
glazed,  served  with  sweetened  and  flavored 
cream,  or  with  whipped  cream. 

APPLE  TIMBALE— A  timbale  mold  lined  with 
strips  of  short  paste,  filled  with  apple  marma- 
lade, covered  with  a  crust,  baked  or  steamed 
till  paste  is  set,  turned  out,  served  with  apricot 
sauce,  and  garnished  with  preserved  cherries. 

APPLES  GLAZED— Cored  and  peeled  apples 
of  an  even  size  simmered  in  lemon  syrup  till 
just  done,  taken  out,  placed  on  a  dish,  the 
syrup  reduced  till  thick,  then  poured  over  the 
apples;  when  cooled,  decorated  with  angelica 
and  cherries. 

APPLE  FLORENTINE— Apples  cored  and  sim- 
mered till  half  done,  in  syrup,  taken  out, 
drained,  the  core  hole  filled  with  sweetened 
rice,  the  outside  coated  with  a  vanilla  flavored 
chestnut  puree;  made  hot  again  in  oven  and 
served  with  a  sprinkling  of  chopped  pistachio 
nuts. 

APRICOTS  ON  TOAST— Stewed  apricots  on 
sweetened  toast,  garnished  with  whipped  cream 
(called  apricots  au  croiiton). 

APRICOTS  AND  RICE  FRITTERS— Half  an 
apricot,  the  other  half  formed  of  rice  croquette 
mixture,  put  together,  breaded,  fried  and 
served  with  apricot  sauce  (called  apricots  k  la 
Colbert). 

APRICOTS  WITH  RICE— Stewed  or  canned 
apricots  in  syrup,  bordered  with  sweetened 
rice,  whipped  cream  over  the  apricots,  sprink- 
led with  chopped  pistachio  nuts  (called  apricots 
k  la  Cond^). 

APRICOT  BAVAROISE— Stiff  apricot  marma- 
lade with  whipped  cream  containing  a  little 
gelatine  mixed  in,  filled  into  molds,  set  till  firm, 
turned  out  on  a  dish,  and  the  edge  piped  around 
with  whipped  cream. 

APRICOT  CHARLOTTE— A  pan  or  mold  lined 
with  lady  fingers,  strips  of  buttered  bread  or 
toast,  filled  with  stewed  apricots,  covered  with 
the  same  material  as  the  lining,  baked,  turned 
out,  and  served  with  a  fruit  sauce 

APRICOT  COBBLER— (Sometimes  called  "Ap- 
ricots D'Artois.")  Two  sheets  of  puff  paste 
baked,  one  spread  with  apricot  marmalade,  the 
other  laid  on  top,  then  cut  in  squares,  diamonds 
or  with  a  fancy  shaped  cutter,  the  edge  orna- 
mented with  piped  meringue,  dried  in  the  oven 
to  a  straw  color,  the  centre  of  top  decorated 
with  jelly. 

APRICOT  COMPOTE— Apricots  simmered  in 
thick  syrup  till  done,  served  with  the  syrup 
they  were  cooked  in. 

APRICOT  CHARTREUSE— A  centre  jelly  mold 
decorated  at  bottom  with  stiffened  cream,  sides 
coated  with  jell",  halves  of  cooked  apricots  fan- 


cifully placed  around  the  mold,  these  agaia 
coated  with  jelly,  the  mold  then  filled  with 
jelly,  set,  turned  out,  and  the  centre  filled  with 
Bavarian  cream. 

APRICOTS  IN  CASES— Fresh  apricots  halved, 
stoned,  simmered  in  raspberry  syrup,  served 
in  rice  cases  with  angelica  sauce. 

APRICOT  FRITTERS— Halves  of  apricots  or 
spoonfuls  of  apricot  marmalade  laid  on  a  thin 
circle  of  paste,  another  circle  placed  on  top, 
edges  pinched  together,  trimmed,  fried  till  done. 
Also  halves  of  apricots  laid  in  diluted  brandy 
and  sugar  for  half  an  hour,  then  dipped  in 
batter,  fried,  dusted  with  sugar,  and  served 
with  a  syrup  sauce. 

APRICOT  PATTIES  OR  VOL-AU-VENTS— 
Very  light  patty  shells,  nearly  filled  with  apri- 
cot marmalade,  finished  by  filling  and  decorat- 
ing with  whipped  cream. 

APRICOT  MARMALADE  OR  JAM— Raw  ap- 
ricots stoned  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve.  To 
every  nound  of  the  pulp  is  added  ten  ounces 
of  sugar  with  a  few  of  the  kernels  blanched 
and  skinned;  boiled  till  thick  enough  to  coat 
a  spoon. 

APRICOT  SHERBET— Apricots  boiled  in  syrup; 
when  done  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  the 
syrup  and  pulp  then  poured  into  a  freezer  and 
frozen;  when  nearly  done,  a  flavoring  of  mar- 
aschino and  some  whipped  whites  of  eggs  are 
added,  then  frozen  five  minutes. 

APRICOT  SAUCE  — Water,  sugar,  apricots, 
lemon  juice  and  a  little  grated  orange  rind, 
boiled,  thickened  with  corn  starch,  then  rubbed 
through  a  fine  strainer. 

APRICOT  TARTLETTES  —  Small  tartlette 
molds  lined  with  puff  paste,  filled  with  apricot 
marmalade,  baked;  when  done,  the  edges  dec- 
orated with  crystalized  cherries,  and  the  center 
piped  with  whipped  cream. 

APRICOT  OMELET— Beaten  eggs  with  a  flavor- 
ing of  vanilla  made  into  an  omelet,  the  inside 
enclosing  some  apricot  marmalade  or  compote, 
omelet  then  placed  on  dish,  dusted  with  sugar, 
marked  with  a  hot  wire,  or  glazed  under  a  sal- 
amander. 

ARTICHOKES— Are  of  two  kinds,  the  green  or 
globe,  and  the  Jerusalem.  The  globe  is  some- 
times used  for  salads,  and  served  with  a  French 
dressing  hot  with  pepper;  also  boiled  plain  and 
served  with  any  of  the  sauces  appropriate  to 
cauliflower.  The  Jerusalem  resembles  a  rough 
knobbly  potato. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  BRAISED  —  Arti- 
choke bottoms  filled  with  chicken  forcemeat, 
braised,  served  on  a  croflton,  with  a  rich  brown 
or  mushroom  sauce  poured  around. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  FORCE- 
MEAT— Artichoke  bottoms  spread  with  a  pur^e 
of  onions  and  rice  mixed  together,  filled  up  with 
forcemeat,  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese  and 
breadcrumbs,  arranged  in  a  pan,  moistened 
with  consomme  and  browned    in    the    oven 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Served  with  cream  onion  sauce  around  (called 
Artichokes  k  la  Soubise. ) 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  FOIE  GRAS 
— Artichoke  bottoms  spread  with  a  mixture  of 
foie-gras  and  minced  trufiQes,  covered  with  a 
reduced  white  mushroom  sauce,  grated  bread 
crumbs  sprinkled  over,  then  browned  in  the 
oven;  served  with  a  truffle  sauce  poured  around, 
(called,  Fonds  d'Artichauts  k  la  Strasbourg.) 

ARTICHOKE    FRITTERS —Cooked   artichoke 


water  till  tender,  taken  np  and  drained,  then 
put  in  scallop  shells  or  dishes,  covered  with  an- 
chovy sauce,  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese  and 
bread-crumbs,  then  browned  in  the  oven. 
ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  STUFFED— Arti- 
choke bottoms  filled  with  forcemeat,  covered 
with  supreme  sauce,  sprinkled  with  grated 
cheese  and  bread-crumbs,  browned  in  the  oven, 
and  served  with  sauce  Supreme  (called  Fonds 
d'Artichauts  k  la  Supreme. 


bottoms  seasoned,  breaded,  or  dipped  in  batter   ARTICHOKE    OMELET— Thin    strips   of   the 


and  fried  in  very  hot  lard;  or  mashed  Jerusa- 
lem artichokes  mixed  with  egg  yolks,  and  sea- 
soned with  nutmeg,  taken  up  by  spoonfuls  and 
fried. 

ARTICHOKE  CHIPS  —  Jerusalem  artichokes 
peeled  and  cut  into  very  thin  slices  with  a  Sara- 
toga chip  cutter,  placed  in  cold  salted  water  for 
an  hour,  taken  up  a  few  at  a  time,  dried,  then 
fried  in  very  hot  fat,  drained,  sprinkled  with 
salt. 

ARTICHOKES  AU  GRATIN— Same  as  arti- 
chokes scalloped.  Artichoke  bottoms  cut  in 
slices  and  mixed  with  Bechamel  sauce,  may  be 
used. 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  RAGOUT— 
Artichoke  bottoms  filled  with  a  mixture  of 
diced  truffles,  mushrooms,  tongue  and  breast 
of  chicken,  all  mixed  with  Allemande  sauce,  a 
thin  layer  of  chicken  forcemeat  placed  on  topi 
sprinkled  with  grattd  bread-crumbs  and  cheese, 
then  browned,  (called,  Fonds  d'Artichauts  k  la 
Montglas.) 

GJ.OBE  ARTICHOKES,  COLBERT  SAUCE— 
Globe  artichokes  trimmed  and  the  choke  re- 
moved, parboiled  in  salted  water,  drained' 
cooled,  then  arranged  in  a  sauce  pan  with  a 
little  butter,  white  wine  and  consomme;  sim- 
mered till  done  and  glazy;  served  with  Colbert 
sauce  poured  around  (called,  Artichokes  k  la 
Lyonnaise). 

GLOBE  ARTICHOKES  STUFFED— Globe  ar- 
tichokes trimmed  and  the  choke  removed,  the 
bottoms  fried  quickly  in  olive  oil  for  three  min- 
utes, turned  over  and  the  leaves  fried  a  minute, 
taken  up  and  drained,  the  interior  filled  with  a 
savory  stuffing  of  meat,  herbs  and  bread-crumbs; 
arranged  in  a  sautoir,  then  covered  with  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  equal  parts  of  white  wine  and 
consomme,  simmered  till  tender,  taken  up, 
drained,  the  braise  reduced  to  a  glaze,  skimmed 
and  added  to  an  Italian  sauce;  served  with  the 
sauce  poured  around  (called,  Artichokes  k  la 
Barigoule). 

ARTICHOKE  BOTTOMS  WITH  ONIONS— 
Artichoke  bottoms  filled  with  a  mixture  of  fried 
onions,  bread-crumbs,  and  Parmesan  cheese, 
sprinkled  with  lemon  juice,  then  browned  in 
the  oven;  served  with  a  brown  sauce  poured 
around  (called,  Fonds  d'Artichauts  a  I'ltalienne). 

SCALLOPED  ARTICHOKES— Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes cut  to  shape  of  oysters,  boiled  in  salted 


tender  part  of  the  globe  artichoke  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  lightly  fried  in  butter, 
drained,  added  to  beaten  eggs  containing  chop- 
ped parsley,  made  into  an  omelet;  served  with 
cream  sauce  poured  around  the  omelet. 

ARTICHOKES  WITH  EGG— Artichoke  bot- 
toms boiled,  served  on  toast,  garnished  with 
quartered  hard  boiled  eggs,  and  miitre  d'hotel 
butter  poured  over  the  artichokes. 

ARTICHOKES  BOILED  —  Globe  artichokes, 
the  tips  of  the  leaves  cut  and  the  bottoms 
rounded,  the  stalk  removed  and  the  under 
leaves  trimmed  away;  well  washed  and  soaked 
in  salted  water  for  an  hour,  placed  in  boiling 
salted  water,  and  boiled  rapidly  till  tender, 
taken  up,  drained,  the  choke  removed,  served 
with  melted  butter,  or  sauces  appropriate  to 
cauliflower. 

ARTICHOKES,  FAMILY  STYLE— Jerusalem 
artichokes  peeled  and  trimmed  to  the  shape  of 
pears  with  a  flat  bottom,  boiled  in  salted  water 
till  tender;  a  dish  of  mashed  potatoes,  arti- 
chokes placed  around  it  point  upwards,  and  a 
boiled  Brussels  sprout  placed  between  each 
artichoke. 

ARTICHOKE  SOUP  — Globe  artichokes  par- 
boiled in  salted  water,  the  choke,  edible  part 
and  leaves  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  the  pur^e 
thus  obtained  one  part;  cream  of  chicken  soup, 
one  part;  onion  cream  sauce  one  part,  all  in- 
corporated, and  boiling  milk  added  to  obtain 
the  desired  consistency  of  thin  cream. 

ARTICHOKE  AND  ONION  SALAD  — Arti- 
choke bottoms  and  onions  both  cooked  and 
sliced,  dished  alternately,  garnished  with  cooked 
beets  and  carrots  cut  with  a  fancy  cutter;  served 
either  with  French  dressing  or  salad  cream. 

ARTICHOKE  AND  TOMATO  SALAD— Cooked 
artichoke  bottoms  and  raw  sliced  peeled  toma- 
toes, same  size  as  the  bottoms,  arranged  alter- 
nately on  dish,  sprinkled  with  French  dressing 
containing  chopped  chervil. 

ASPARAGUS— Is  of  two  kinds,  the  red  and 
green;  the  red  is  large,  thick  and  full;  the  green 
is  smaller,  with  a  whitish  stalk  and  green  head, 
of  delicate  flavor. 

ASPARAGUS  STEWED— Asparagus  heads,  also 
the  tender  part  of  the  stalks  cut  into  inch 
lengths,  blanched,  drained,  then  simmered  till 
tender  in  a  butter  sauce,  finished  by  adding  a 
liason  of  egg  yolks  and  cream. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ASPARAGUS,  SAUCE  HOLLANDAISE— As- 
paragus heads  with  all  the  tender  part  of  the 
stalk  attached,  boiled  in  boiling  water  contain- 
ing a  small  piece  of  common  washing  soda  and 
salt  till  done,  a  piece  of  toast  placed  on  a  dish, 
the  asparagus  stalks  resting  on  the  toast  with 
the  heads  in  the  dish,  HoUandaise  sauce  poured 
over  the  heads. 

ASPARAGUS— Cooked  like  the  preceding  may 
also  be  served  with  plain  melted  butter,  cream, 
veloute,  mousseline  or  bechamel  sauce;  also, 
after  cooking,  allowed  to  become  cold,  and 
served  without  toast,  but  with  either  tartare, 
vinaigrette  or  mayonnaise  sauce. 

ASPARAGUS  OMELET  —  Asparagus  tips 
blanched  and  drained,  then  fried  lightly  in 
butter,  surplus  butter  poured  off  and  a  little 
cream  sauce  added;  omelet  mixture  containing 
chopped  parsley  formed,  enclosing  a  spoonful 
of  the  asparagus,  placed  on  a  dish  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  asparagus  placed  at  each  end. 

ASPARAGUS  POINTS  WITH  QUENELLES 
— Asparagus  points  and  about  two  inches  of 
the  stalk  boiled,  drained,  laid  on  toast,  bord- 
ered with  small  quenelles  of  chicken,  and  Hol- 
landaise  sauce  poured  over  the  tips. 

ASPARAGUS  SOUP— Asparagus  heads  blanched 
drained  and  lightly  fried  with  minced  shallots 
in  butter,  then  laid  aside,  the  stalks  boiled  in 
veal  or  chicken  broth  till  tender,  a  little  white 
roux  added,  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and 
mixed  with  equal  parts  of  veloute  and  cream 
sauce,  brought  to  a  simmer,  the  heads  now 
added  and  served. 

ASPARAGUS  PURfeE— Asparagus  points  and 
the  tender  part  of  the  stalks  blanched  and 
drained,  lightly  fried  in  butter  with  some 
minced  shallots,  green  onions,  parsley  and  a 
little  sugar,  turned  into  chicken  broth,  brought 
to  a  boil,  thickened  with  white  roux,  the  whole 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  spinach  juice  added  to 
help  give  a  greenish  color,  seasoned  and 
served. 

ASPARAGUS  SALAD— Two  inch  lengths  with 
the  head  of  cold  boiled  asparagus  served  on  a 
leaf  of  lettuce  with  a  cream  salad  dressing. 

ASPARAGUS  AND  SALMON  SALAD  —  A 
spoonful  of  ice  cold  salmon  en  mayonnaise  gar- 
nished with  asparagus  tips  in  French  dressing. 

ASPARAGUS  AND  CAULIFLOWER  SALAD 
— Cooked  cauliflower  in  flowerets  garnished 
with  asparagus  tips,  served  sprinkled  with 
chopped  capers  and  cream  salad  dressing. 

ASPARAGUS  PATTIES  —  Cooked  asparagus 
heads  and  mushrooms  in  equal  parts  mixed 
with  veloute  sauce,  patty  shells  filled  with  the 
mixture,  tops  placed  on;  served  with  a  sauce 
mousseline  poured  around  the  base. 

ASPARAGUS  WITH  CHEESE— Cooked  aspar- 
agus heads  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
placed  in  a  vegetable  dish,  equal  parts  of  butter 
and  grated  parmesan  cheese  pounded  together 
with  a  seasoning  of  cayenne  pepper  and  lemon 


juice,  the  asparagus  covered  with  the  cheese 
and  butter,  browned  in  the  oven  and  served. 

ASPIC — The  name  given  to  a  clear  savory  jelly 
made  from  meat,  and  is  used  to  decorate  en- 
trees, pies,  hams,  tongues,  game,  pigs'  heads, 
salads,  prawns,  vegetables,  fish,  etc. 

ASPIC  JELLY— Plenty  of  veal  knuckles,  calf's 
feet  boned  and  blanched,  and  a  fowl  or  two  are 
covered  with  clear  water,  fetched  slowly  to  a 
boil,  skimmed,  a  little  cold  water  then  added, 
again  brought  to  the  boil  and  skimmed,  carrots, 
onions,  celery,  parsley,  a  little  garlic,  bay 
leaves,  thyme,  mace  and  whole  peppers  are 
then  added  and  simmered  slowly  for  six  hours, 
fat  taken  off,  then  strained  through  a  consomme 
towel,  allowed  to  become  quite  cold  and  all  fat 
removed,  then  placed  over  a  quick  fire,  brought 
to  the  boil,  skimmed,  removed  to  cool  off  a 
little;  while  cooling,  gelatine  at  the  rate  of  two 
ounces  to  the  gallon  is  added;  some  lean  veal 
is  now  chopped  fine  and  mixed  with  some  whip- 
ped whites  of  eggs  and  egg  shells,  also  a  bottle 
of  white  wine,  this  mixture  poured  into  the 
cooling  stock  and  allowed  to  come  to  a  slow 
boil;  when  just  at  boiling  point  a  little  ice  water 
containing  lemon  juice  is  put  in,  and  as  soon 
as  coagulation  takes  place  it  is  drawn  to  one 
side  and  allowed  to  simmer  slowly  for  an  hour 
longer,  then  strained  through  a  jelly  bag  and 
set  away  for  use. 

ATELETTE — Is  a  skewed"  generally  made  of 
silver  or  plated  metal,  and  is  used  to  decorate 
hot  and  cold  pieces  for  banquet  tables;  combi- 
nations on  the  skewer  according  to  the  dish 
and  the  fancy  of  the  cook  can  be  made  of  cocks- 
combs, button  mushrooms,  crayfish,  prawns, 
animelles  (lamb-fries)  carrots,  turnips,  green 
peas,  parsley,  truffles,  sweetbreads,  crystallized 
fruits,  preserved  violets,  cherries,  strawberries, 
sweet  jelly,  aspic  jelly,  etc.,  etc. 

ATTEREAUX— Is  a  skewer  generally  used  for 
cooking  dishes  en  brochette  (see  brochette). 

BABA — A  light  yeast  raised  cake  containing 
fruit  and  almonds,  generally  served  as  dessert 
with  a  rum  sauce. 

BAKING  POWDER  — Is  better  made  than 
bought;  the  following  receipt  is  cheap  and 
effective:  five  pounds  of  tartaric  acid,  eight 
pounds  of  bi-carbonate  of  soda,  sixteen  pounds 
of  potato  flour,  mixed  and  rubbed  through  a 
fine  sieve.  By  the  addition  of  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  turmeric  to  eight  pounds  of  baking 
powder  you  produce  EGG  POWDER,'  which 
saves  eggs  and  gives  richness  of  color. 

BANANA — Semi-tropical  fruit  that  grow  in  bun- 
ches sometimes  six  feet  in  length  and  contain- 
ing four  to  five  hundred  bananas,  that,  when 
ripe,  change  either  to  a  bright  yellow  or  purple 
red  color.  The  yellow  are  esteemed  for  their 
flavor,  while  the  red  are  best  for  cooking,  as 
they  are  more  firm.  The  merchants  in  selling 
the  fruit,  fix  the  price  according  to  the  number 
of  HANDS  the  bunch  contains.     A  hand  is  a 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


section  on  the  stalk  and  contains,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  fruit,  from  ten  to  twenty  bananas. 
Bananas  may  be  bought  in  a  green  state  much 
cheaper  than  when  ripe.  When  bought  green, 
the  way  of  ripening  is  to  hang  the  bunches  up 
in  a  dark  room,  and  subject  them  to  a  steady 
heat  of  seventy-five  degrees. 

BANANA  FRITTERS— Bananas  cut  slantwise 
in  halves,  laid  for  a  while  in  diluted  brandy 
and  sugar,  then  dipped  in  batter  and  fried  in 
plenty  of  hot  fat,  taken  up,  drained,  rolled  in 
powdered  sugar,  and  serve  with  a  fruit  sauce. 

BANANAS  BAKED— Bananas  split  in  halves 
lengthwise,  laid  in  a  buttered  pan,  dusted  with 
powdered  sugar,  browned  quickly  in  the  oven; 
served  with  a  cocoanut  syrup  sauce. 

BANANAS  FRIED  — Bananas  split  in  halves 
lengthwise,  dipped  in  milk,  then  rolled  in  flour, 
fried  in  clear  butter  to  a  golden  brown;  served 
with  currant  jelly. 

BANANA  COMPOTE— Bananas  cut  in  quarters 
slantwise,  simmered  in  syrup  till  done;  served 
on  a  bed  of  sweetened  rice,  with  the  syrup 
poured  over  them. 

BANANA  ICE  CREAM— Bananas  peeled  and 
rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve;  added  to  the  cream 
to  be  frozen  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  of  pulp  to 
the  gallon. 

BANANA  SALAD— Alternate  slices  of  bananas, 
peeled  oranges,  and  dessicated  cocoanut  are 
placed  in  a  fruit  dish  till  full,  over  which  is 
poured  enough  brandy  and  rum  mixed  with 
sugar  to  just  moisten  the  salad. 

BACON — Is  known  as  salted  and  dried.  The 
salted  is  generally  used  as  boiling  bacon,  and 
the  dried,  which  is  subsequently  smoked,  is 
generally  used  for  frying  and  broiling.  In  select- 
ing bacon  discard  any  with  yellow  fat.  Good 
bacon  is  red  in  the  lean  and  the  fat  is  white  and 
firm.  *  *  *  Bacon  fat  is  better  than  butter  for 
many  things  that  have  to  be  fried,  ^uch  as  liver, 
veal  chops,  onions  for  curry,  etc.,  is  also  used 
instead  of  olive  oil  with  potato  salad,  lettuce 
salad,  combination  salad,  etc.  *  *  *  Bacon  is 
appropriate  boiled  with  cabbage,  kraut  and 
string,  wax  and  haricot  beans;  it  is  an  improve- 
ment to  an  omelet,  and  is  the  proper  thing  to 
eat  with  liver,  eggs  and  fowls. 

BAIN-MARIE — A  foreign  culinary  term  for  a 
hot  water  bath  in  which  are  kept  the  pots  or 
saucepans  containing  sauces,  garnitures,  en- 
trees, soups,  etc.,  that  require  to  be  kept  hot 
without  reaching  the  boiling  point. 

BALLOTINE— Is  the  name  given  to  a  chaud- 
froid  of  poultry,  game,  foie-gras,  spring  lamb, 
etc.,  is  made  by  mincing  the  flesh  and  forming 
it  into  forcemeat,  then  stufiBng  small  boned 
birds  such  as  larks,  quails,  snipe,  woodcock, 
squabs,  etc.,  cooking  them  and  serving  them 
cold.  Sometimes  the  forcemeat  is  stuffed  into 
the  skin  of  a  turkey  leg,  sewn  up,  cooked, 
shaped  like  a  ham;  when  cold,  one  end  is 
masked  with  a  brown  sauce,  the  other  with  a 


white  sauce,   imitating  a  ham  skin;    they  are 
then  ornamented  with  aspic  jelly,  atelettes,  etc. 

BARAQUILLE — Is  the  foreign  culinary  term  for 
a  patty  or  vol-au-vent  filled  with  a  mince  of 
veal,  chicken,  partridge,  truffles,  small  game, 
fresh  mushrooms,  sweetbreads,  etc. 

BARBECUE — Means  an  animal  roasted  whole; 
although  in  recent  years  the  word  has  been 
applied  to  gatherings  at  places  where  an  animal 
roasted  whole  and  served  to  the  guests  is  the 
principal  feature  of  the  party. 

BARON  OF  BEEF  — One  of  the  olden-time 
dishes  of  Great  Britain's  banquet  tables,  the 
term  applied  to  two  short  loins  of  beef  left 
whole,  resembling  a  saddle  of  mutton. 

BASIL — The  name  of  a  favorite  herb  used  in 
seasoning  turtle  soup.  Cloves  resemble  it  in 
taste  and  flavor,  and  since  the  herb  is  as  a  rule 
hard  to  procure,  even  in  the  large  cities,  the 
clove  does  duty  for  it  in  a  very  creditable 
manner. 

BAGRATION— The  name  applied  through  a  for- 
eign medium  to  a  few  dishes,  principally  soups 
that  are  composed  of  a  medley  of  fish  and  vege- 
tables. 

BARLEY — A  grain  used  by  brewers  in  malting; 
generally  found  on  the  market  in  two  sizes  or 
qualities  known  as  Scotch  and  Pearl.  The 
Scotch  is  larger  and  has  the  inner  husk  left  on; 
the  Pearl  is  smaller  and  completely  freed  from 
husk,  which  makes  it  better  adapted  for  culi- 
nary use;  chiefly  used  in  soups  and  gruels. 

BASS — A  well  known  species  of  fish,  especially 
adapted  for  culinary  purposes  on  account  of  its 
shape  and  size  as  well  as  its  firm  meat  and  deli- 
cate flavor.  There  are  four  or  five  principal 
kinds  chiefly  used,  the  Black,  Striped,  Sea, 
Silver,  and  Spotted,  of  which  the  Black  stands 
first. 

BASS  BROILED— The  fish  is  chosen  of  as  near 
a  pound  in  weight  as  possible,  if  for  club  or 
restaurant  use:  scaled,  trimmed,  seasoned, 
scored  slantwise,  rolled  in  flour,  brushed  with 
melted  butter  or  olive  oil,  broiled;  served  with 
a  slice  of  broiled  bacon,  a  spoonful  of  melted 
butter,  slice  of  lemon,  and  a  garnish  of  parsley. 
If  used  as  a  course  of  a  dinner,  before  broiling 
it  is  filleted  into  portion  pieces. 

BASS  FRIED- -Prepared  as  the  preceding,  ex- 
cept it  is  not  scored;  fried  a  golden  brown,  and 
served  as  if  broiled,  or  with  tomato,  anchovy 
or  Genevoise  sauces. 

BASS  BOILED— Scaled,  trimmed,  cut  into  por- 
tion pieces,  placed  into  boiling  water  contain- 
ing slices  of  carrot  and  onion,  bay  leaves,  whole 
peppers,  salt  and  a  dash  of  vinegar;  served 
with  either  butter,  cream,  parsley,  shrimp,  an- 
chovy, oyster  or  hollandaise  sauces;  sometimes 
served  with  green  peas. 

BASS  BAKED— Scaled,  trimmed,  (left  whole  for 
restaurant  and  cut  in  portions  if  for  hotel  use), 
placed  in  pan,  seasoned  with  wine,  broth,  oil, 
salt,  pepper  and  minced  shallots,  sheet  of  oiled 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


^per  put  over,  baked;  when  nearly  done, 
equal  quantities  of  parsley  and  espagnole  sauces 
added  to  the  pan;  the  fish  served  with  the 
sauce,  (called,  Bass  k  la  Cond^). 

BASS  BRAISED— Prepared  as  the  preceding, 
placed  in  pan  or  sautoir  containing  slices  of 
carrot,  onion,  celery  and  parsley,  with  enough 
Bordelaise  sauce  to  moisten  the  fish,  braised 
slowly  till  done;  served  with  the  sauce  and 
garnished  with  shrimps,  (called,  Bass  k  la  Bor- 
delaise). 

BASS  BRAISED— The  fish  cut  into  fillets,  larc- 
ed,  braised  in  equal  parts  of  tomato  and  bech- 
amel sauces;  when  cooked,  the  sauce  poured 
into  saucepan,  and  added  to  it  some  puree  of 
mushrooms,  lobster  roe,  sliced  truffles  and 
sailterne  wine;  the  fish  served  with  the  sauce, 
and  garnished  with  fish  quenelles,  (called,  bass 
k  la  Chambord). 

BASS  SAUTfe- The  fish  prepared  as  for  frying, 
rolled  in  flour,  and  fried  plain;  a  little  gravy 
made  in  the  pan  the  fish  was  fried  in  with  flour 
and  fish  broth,  and  served  with  the  fish,  gar- 
nished with  fancy  potatoes,  (called  bass  k  la 
Meuni^re). 

BASS  CROQUETTES— Cold  cooked  bass  with 
the  skin  and  bones  removed,  then  picked  and 
put  in  a  thick  fish  cream  sauce,  seasoned  with 
anchovy  essence,  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nut- 
meg, allowed  to  become  cold,  shaped  into  cro- 
quettes, breaded,  fried,  and  served  with  either 
tomato,  bordelaise,  genoise  or  anchovy  sauces, 
garnished  with  parsley  and  sliced  lemon. 

BATTER — A  consistency  of  flour  and  liquids 
used  to  dip  foods  in  before  frying;  also  a  pan- 
cake and  pudding  mixture.  The  following 
fritter  batter  is  used  for  frying  any  foods  of  a 
plain  nature:  a  pound  of  flour  is  gradually 
moistened  with  a  half  pint  each  of  milk  and 
water,  added  to  which  is  the  whipped  whites 
of  four  eggs  and  half  a  cup  of  melted  butter. 

BATTER  for  frying  sweet  foods  and  fruits  is 
made  of  a  pound  of  flour,  a  heapmg  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder  and  half  cup  of  sugar  mixed 
together  dry,  then  moistened  with  a  cup  and  a 
half  of  milk  and  two  beaten  eggs. 

BATTER  for  frying  vegetables  is  made  of  a 
pound  of  flour  seasoned  with  salt,  moistened 
with  a  pint  of  milk,  one  beaten  egg,  and  a 
spoonful  of  olive  oil. 

BATTER  for  French  pancakes  is  made  of  a 
pound  of  flour  very  gradually  moistened  with  a 
quart  of  milk  and  sixteen  beaten  eggs,  the 
grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon  and  a  seas- 
oning of  salt.  This  batter  is  fried  in  small 
HOT  frying  pans,  very  thin,  tossed  over, 
spread  with  preserves,  rolled  up  and  sprinkled 
with  powdered  sugar.  They  are  also  called 
JENNY  LIND  PANCAKES. 

BATTER  for  Swiss  pancakes  is  made  of  six  oun- 
ces of  flour  gradually  moistened  with  six  beaten 
eggs  and  a  quart  of  milk  with  a  seasoning  of 
salt;    they  are  fried  like  the  preceding,   but 


prior  to  tossing  them  over  they  are  strewn  with 
steamed  currants.  Served  currant  side  up  with 
powdered  sugar,  not  rolled. 

BATTER  for  Yorkshire  pudding  is  made  of  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  gradually  moistened 
with  three  pints  of  milk,  nine  beaten  eggs,  and 
half  a  cup  of  melted  butter;  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  two  of  baking  powder  is  beaten  in  just 
before  putting  into  oven. 

BATTER  for  wheat  griddle  cakes  is  made  of  a 
pound  of  flour,  one  ounce  of  baking  powder, 
two  beaten  eggs,  three  cups  of  milk,  a  little 
melted  butter,  sugar  and  salt. 

BATTER  for  corn  griddle  cakes  is  made  of  half 
a  pound  each  of  wheat  flour  and  corn  meal 
mixed  dry  with  a  little  salt  and  one  ounce  of 
baking  powder,  then  moistened  with  a  pint 
each  of  milk  and  water,  two  beaten  eggs,  a  little 
syrup  and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter. 

BATTER  for  flannel  griddle  cakes  is  made  of  a 
pound  of  flour,  a  quart  of  water  and  a  small 
cake  of  yeast,  this  is  set  to  rise;  when  risen, 
two  eggs,  two  ounces  of  melted  lard,  a  little  salt 
and  syrup  are  beaten  in.  allowed  to  rise  again 
before  baking. 

BATTER  for  graham  griddle  cakes  is  made  the 
same  as  for  corn,  except  using  graham  flour  for 
the  corn  meal. 

BATTER  for  rice  griddle  cakes  is  made  of  a  pint 
each  of  sifted  flour  and  dry  boiled  rice  mixed 
together  with  a  little  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of 
baking  powder,  moistened  with  half  a  pint  of 
milk,  three  eggs  and  a  little  syrup. 

BATTER  for  buckwheat  cakes  is  made  of  self- 
raising  buckwheat  flour  prepared  according  to 
the  directions  given  on  the  package;  or  one 
pound  of  buckwheat  flour  moistened  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  warm  water  with  enough  yeast 
added  to  raise  it;  when  risen,  a  little  salt,  syrup 
and  melted  lard  or  butter  is  beaten  into  it,  and 
sometimes  a  little  corn  meal  is  appreciated. 

BAY  LEAVES— The  leaf  of  the  laurel  tree  dried 
and  used  in  seasoning  soups,  sauces,  etc.;  they 
resemble  in  taste  and  flavor,  bitter  almonds. 

BEANS — One  of  the  most  nutritious  foods  that 
can  be  used;  the  varieties  most  used  are  the 
lima  or  butter  bean,  the  white  haricot  or  navy 
bean,  the  red  and  the  black  haricot,  the  flag- 
eolet or  kidney  bean. 

LIMA  BEANS  BOILED— The  dried  beans  are 
soaked  in  water  for  a  few  hours,  then  boiled 
till  tender,  drained,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  butter,  or  mixed  with  cream  sauce  If 
canned  beans  are  used  they  are  first  washed 
from  their  can  liquor,  then  heated  and  seasoned 
as  above;  if  fresh  beans  are  used,  they  are  put 
to  boil  in  boiling  water  containing  salt  and  a 
small  piece  of  common  washing  soda;  when 
done,  drained,  and  seasoned  as  above. 

LIMA  BEANS  SAUT£— The  beans  either  dried, 
fresh  or  canned  are  prepared  up  to  the  season- 
ing point  of  the  preceding  receipt,  then  placed 
in  pan  containing  either  small  pieces  of  cooked 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


bacon  or  salt  pork,  or  just  plain  melted  butter, 
then  thoroughly  tossed  and  heated  in  the  pan, 
seasoned;  sometimes  they  are  sprinkled  with 
finely  chopped  parsley  before  serving. 
LIMA  BEANS  SALAD— Either  dried,  fresh  or 
canned  beans  boiled  till  tender;  when  cold  they 
are  mixed  with  a  cream,  hoUandaise  or  mayon- 
naise salad  dressing  and  served  on  a  bed  of 
lettuce. 
LIMA  BEANS  PURfiE— Soaked  dried  beans 
put  to  boil  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork  in  white 
stock  containing  onions,  carrots,  parsley,  and 
whole  mace;  when  cooked  the  pork  and  vege- 
tables removed,  the  beans  and  stock  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve,  then  placed  in  a  clean 
saucepan,  brought  to  the  boil,  seasoned,  a  little 
flour  and  water  thickening  added  to  prevent 
coagulation;  served  with  small  toast. 

LIMA  BEANS,  cream  of — Equal  parts  of  the 
finished  puree  of  the  preceding,  and  cream  or 
veloute  sauce,  made  hot  separate,  then  thor- 
oughly mixed  without  further  boiling. 

FLAGEOLETS  or  kidney  beans  are  obtainable 
in  cans  or  in  the  dried  state.  The  average 
patron  does  not  know  what  a  flageolet  is,  hence 
the  call  for  them  at  table  is  small;  but  most 
people  know  what  a  kidney  bean  is,  and  if  put 
on  the  bill  of  fare  as  such,  the  demand  will  be 
gratifying  to  the  cook. 

KIDNEY  BEANS  IN  CREAM— Poulette,  espag- 
nole  or  velout^  sauces.  The  beans  if  canned, 
washed  from  the  can  liquor;  if  dried  they  are 
soaked,  then  boiled  tender,  drained  and  re- 
heated in  any  of  the  four  sauces  above  men- 
tioned. 

KIDNEY  BEANS,  GERMAN  STYLE— Soaked, 
boiled  and  drained  dried  beans,  or  canned  ones 
washed  off,  then  heated  and  tossed  in  butter, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  with  a  little 
summer  savoury;  a  few  salted  herrings  skinned 
boned  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  either  mixed 
with  the  beans,  or  served  as  a  garnish  to  them. 

KIDNEY  BEANS.  FRENCH  STYLE— Soaked, 
boiled  and  drained  dried  beans,  or  canned  ones 
washed  off,  a  little  minced  onion  and  garlic 
lightly  fried  in  olive  oil  to  a  golden  brown  color, 
oil  poured  off,  beans  put  in  with  some  chopped 
parsley,  tossed  together  with  the  onions,  then 
moistened  with  velout^  sauce,  brought  to  the 
boil,  seasoned  and  served. 

KIDNEY  BEANS,  ENGLISH  STYLE  — The 
cooked  beans,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
butter,  sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley  and 
served. 

KIDNEY  BEANS,  PANACHES  —  The  word 
panaches  means  mixed.  Cold  cooked  kidney 
beans  mixed  with  equal  parts  of  cold  cooked 
navy  or  lima  beans,  are  heated  with  a  little 
butter,  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped 
parsley  and  served.  Another  mixture  is  made 
of  equal  parts  of  cold  cooked  strmg  beans  (green) 
and  wax  beans  (yellow). 

HARICOT  BEANS,  BOSTON  STYLE  — More 


often  placed  on  the  bill  of  fare  as  "baked  pork 
and  beans."  The  beans  are  washed  and  soaked 
over  night;  into  the  bean  jar  is  put  some  black 
nolasses,  salt,  pepper  and  dry  mustard,  these 
are  well  mixed,  cold  water  is  then  added  to 
thin  the  mixture;  the  soaked  beans  now  placed 
into  the  jar  filling  it  two-thirds  full,  a  piece  of 
scored,  or  slices  of  salt  pork  is  placed  on  top 
of  the  beans,  jar  filled  with  water,  lid  placed 
on,  and  put  in  a  slow  oven  and  baked  till  done; 
should  be  served  with  steamed  brown  bread. 
The  more  common  way,  however,  that  pork  and 
beans  are  cooked,  is  to  soak  them  over  night, 
place  them  on  to  boil  in  the  morning,  when  at 
boiling  point  they  are  skimmed,  and  the  salt 
pork  put  to  boil  with  them,  when  done  the  pork 
removed  and  cut  in  slices,  the  beans  put  into 
pans,  seasoned,  sometimes  colored  with  caramel, 
the  slices  of  pork  arranged  on  top  of  the  beans, 
sprinkled  with  sugar  and  placed  in  the  oven  till 
browned. 
HARICOT  BEANS  WITH  BACON— The  cold 
beans  are  nicely  fried  with  butter  or  bacon  fat, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  with  a  little  sage, 
then  served  with  a  slice  of  broiled  bacon. 
HARICOT  BEANS  PUR£E— Soaked  beans  put 
to  boil  with  salt  pork  in  white  stock  containing 
carrots,  onions,  celery  or  celery  seed  or  salt, 
parsley  and  whole  mace;  when  done  the  pork 
and  vegetables  removed,  the  beans  and  stock 
rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  placed  in  a 
clean  saucepan,  seasoned,  a  little  flour  and 
water  thickening  added  to  prevent  coagulation, 
served  with  small  toast. 
HARICOT  SOUP,  FAMILY  STYLE— Prepared 
same  as  the  preceding,  but  instead  of  the  beans 
being  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  they  are  left 
whole  in  the  soup,  and  the  vegetables  and  pork 
cut  up  very  small,  returned  to  the  soup  and 
served  with  it,  along  with  small  toast. 
BEAN  PUR£e  with  ONIONS— Is  the  pur^ 
above  but  considerable  onions  boiled  in  the 
stock,  and  rubbed  through  the  sieve  with  the 
beans,  (called,  puree  of  beans,  i  la  Soubise). 
HARICOT  BEANS,  CREAM  SAUCE  —  Cold 
boiled  haricot  beans  with  a  flavoring  of  salt 
pork,  mixed  into  a  white  cream  onion  sauce, 
seasoned  with  nutmeg,  made  hot,  but  not  re- 
boiled. 
RED  HARICOT  BEANS— Are  mostly  used  as 
a  garniture  to  salt  leg  of  boiled  pork.  They  are 
soaked,  boiled  with  the  pork,  drained,  placed 
in  a  saucepan,  white  wine  added,  then  reduced 
to  a  glaze  with  a  ladle  of  consomme;  served 
with  the  pork  in  conjunction  with  small  glazed 
onions. 
BLACK  BEANS  WITH  RISSOTO— The  beans 
soaked  and  boiled  with  bacon;  when  done,  the 
bacon  cut  up  small  and  mixed  w'^h  the  drained 
beans,  then  moistened  with  Spanish  sauce, 
seasoned  with  anchovy  butter,  made  hot  again 
and  served  garnished  with  rissoto. 
GREEN  AND  WAX  BEANS— Are   best   suited 


so 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


for  cnlinary  use  when  served  as  a  plain  vege- 
table boiled  in  salted  water  with  the  cover  of 
the  saucepan  OFF.  The  beans  have  the  strings 
removed,  then  shred  or  cut  across;  when  boiled, 
drained,  moistened  with  a  little  consomme,  and 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  (time  of 
boiling  15  to  35  minutes  according  to  age). 

BEEF — For  culinary  purposes  is  of  two  kinds, 
the  steer  and  the  cow.  Steer  beef  is  superior 
and  the  flesh  should  be  of  a  bright  red  marble 
with  yellow  fat,  and  a  thick  outside  layer  of 
fat  under  a  fine  grained  skin;  the  lean  should 
be  firm  and  elastic  when  pressed  with  the  fing- 
ers; the  suet  should  be  dry  and  crumble  easily. 
Cow  beef  is  of  closer  grain,  the  fat  is  white  in- 
stead of  yellow,  and  the  flesh  of  a  darker  red, 
BULL  beef  is  sometimes  worked  off  on  the 
unwary  by  the  packing  houses  when  shipping 
to  distant  cities,  especially  so  in  the  form  of 
tenderloins;  it  is  large,  coarse,  very  dark  in 
color,  and  unfit  for  table  use. 

BEEF  k  la  MODE  — Any  piece  of  solid  beef, 
preferably  the  silverside  of  the  round,  is  larded 
with  seasoned  strips  of  larding  pork,  then  laid 
in  dilute  vinegar  containing  slices  of  carrot, 
turnips  and  onions  with  whole  spices,  for  sev- 
eral hours.  It  is  then  taken  out  and  quickly 
roasted  in  oven  to  get  the  outside  seared,  then 
placed  in  saucepan,  covered  with  a  piquante 
sauce,  lid  of  saucepan  put  on,  then  gently  sim- 
mered till  tender;  served  in  slices  with  a  gar- 
nish of  braised  vegetables  and  some  of  the 
sauce  it  was  cooked  in,  (also  called,  "pot  roast" 
and  "sour  pot  roast.") 

BEEF  STEW,  GERMAN  STYLE  — Cold  beef 
k  la  mode  is  cut  into  small  pieces  and  heated  in 
a  sour  sauce;  served  garnished  with  potato 
pancakes. 

BEEF  ROAST— Preferably  the  set,  or  seven  ribs 
from  the  shoulder  to  the  loin  is  for  hotel  use. 
The  lower  end  of  the  ribs,  called  SHORTRIBS, 
should  be  roasted  with  another  pan  over  the 
top,  so  as  to  become  more  juicy  and  tender 
than  by  roasting  them  open.  The  usual  accom- 
paniment to  roast  beef  is  some  of  the  pan  or 
dish  gravy  with  a  slice  of  Yorkshire  pudding, 
while  for  the  shortribs  a  little  grated  horse- 
radish and  browned  potatoes  is  best. 

BOILED  BEEF— The  best  pieces  for  boiling 
are  the  flank,  brisket,  and  short  ribs,  they 
should  be  boiled  tender  with  a  flavoring  of  veg- 
etables, and  served  with  horseradish  sauce, 
cream  sauce  and  carrots  or  suet  dumplings,  or 
mixed  vegetables  such  as  carrot,  turnip,  onion, 
cabbage  and  potato. 

CORNED  BEEF— Flank,  short  ribs,  brisket  or 
rump  of  beef  is  put  to  soak  in  brine  made  of 
twenty-five  pounds  of  salt,  twelve  ounces  of 
rock  saltpetre,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  fifteen 
gallons  of  water,  all  boiled  together,  skimmed, 
cooled,  the  beef  then  put  in  with  a  cover  on 
and  a  weight  on  that  to  keep  the  beef  under 
the  brine,  (ready  for  use  in  a  week  to  ten  days). 


BOILED  CORNED  BEEF— The  meat  put  to 
boil  in  cold  water,  scum  taken  off  as  it  rises, 
then  allowed  to  simmer  till  tender  (about  four 
hours)  served  in  slices  with  cabbage,  parsnips, 
carrots,  sometimes  with  all  three  vegetables; 
also  with  suet  dumplings;  sometimes  with  a 
brown  sauce  and  garnished  with  brussels 
sprouts. 

SPICED  BEEF — A  whole  flank  of  beef  with 
bones,  gristle  and  inner  skin  removed,  laid  out 
flat,  outside  skin  downwards,  then  rubbed  with 
a  mixture  of  salt,  ground  pepper,  mace,  allspice, 
cloves  and  ginger;  rolled  up  and  tied,  then  put 
to  soak  for  ten  days  with  some  pickle  from  the 
corned  beef  brine  to  which  is  added  whole 
cloves,  peppers,  allspice  and  bay  leaves.  When 
to  be  cooked,  it  is  taken  from  the  pickle,  wiped 
dry,  dipped  in  fat  that  is  near  cool  so  as  to  take 
on  a  good  coating,  then  rolled  in  a  dough  made 
of  plain  flour  and  water,  placed  in  a  medium 
oven  and  slowly  baked  (five  to  six  hours).  If 
to  be  served  hot,  cut  in  slices  and  serve  with 
piquante  sauce  and  garnish  with  small  cut  vege- 
tables. If  to  be  served  cold,  as  is  generally 
done,  the  dough  is  left  on  till  thoroughly  cold, 
or  till  to  be  served;  even  for  a  month  it  will 
not  spoil  if  the  dough  is  not  disturbed.  Served 
cold  in  thin  slices  garnished  with  pickles. 

ALL  SALT,  CORNED  OR  SMOKED  MEATS 
IF  SIMMERED  TILL  DONE,  INSTEAD 
OF  QUICK  BOILING,  and  allowed  to  cool  in 
the  water  they  were  simmered  in,  will  be  found 
always  more  juicy  and  tender,  and  capable  of 
longer  keeping. 

DRIED  BEEF— The  thick  flank  is  the  part  gen- 
erally used;  divided  lengthwise  in  its  natural 
section,  it  is  put  in  a  pickle  of  salt,  saltpetre, 
sugar  and  molasses  for  two  weeks,  then  hung 
up  and  smoked  like  hams,  (also  called  smoked 
beef). 

CHIPPED  BEEF  IN  CREAM— Very  thin  slices 
or  shavings  of  dried  beef,  blanched,  drained, 
and  mixed  into  cream  sauce  or  reduced  cream. 

SCRAMBLED  BEEF  WITH  EGGS— Very  thin 
slices  of  dried  beef,  again  cut  into  strips  like 
short  matches,  blanched,  drained,  mixed  with 
beaten  eggs  and  a  little  milk,  scrambled  around 
in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter  till  eggs  are  set, 
served  either  plain,  or  on  toast. 

FRIZZLED  BEEF  ON  TOAST— Very  thin  sli- 
ces of  dried  beef,  blanched,  drained,  then 
tossed  with  frothing  butter  over  a  quick  fire; 
served  on  toast. 

SMOKED  BEEF  WITH  SPINACH  —  Dried 
beef  put  to  boil  in  cold  water,  scum  taken  off 
as  it  rises,  then  simmered  till  tender;  served  in 
slices  on  a  bed  of  spinach. 

SMOKED  BEEF  SANDWICHES  —  Very  thin 
slices  of  dried  beef  placed  on  thin  slices  of  but- 
tered brown  bread,  rolled  up  like  fingers. 

BRISKET  OF  BEEF  WITH  VEGETABLES 
— Lean  brisket  of  beef  boned,  placed  in  sauce- 
pan with  carrot,  onions,  turnip,  celery,  parsley, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


IS 


thyme,  bay  leaves,  whole  cloves  and  mace, 
covered  with  stock,  saucepan  cover  put  on, 
simmered  till  tender,  taken  up  and  placed  on 
baking  pan,  little  gravy  poured  over,  put  in 
quick  oven  till  gravy  has  glazed  the  meat; 
served  in  slices  with  glazed  vegetables  and 
brown  sauce. 
FLANK  OF  BEEF,  ENGLISH  STYLE— Lean 
flank  of  beef  that  has  been  in  corned  beef  brine 
for  a  few  days,  is  washed,  then  put  to  boil  in 
cold  water  with  carrots,  onions,  and  celery; 
after  coming  to  the  boil,  skimmed,  then  sim- 
mered till  tender,  taken  up  and  glazed  in  oven 
like  the  preceding,  served  in  slices  with  a  suet 
dumpling,  brussels  sprouts,  shaped  piece  of 
carrot  and  turnip,  a  boiled  onion,  and  some 
piquante  sauce  poured  around. 
GLAZED  RIBS  OF  BEEF  WITH  MACAR- 
ONI— Lean  short  ribs  of  beef  larded  through 
the  lean  with  seasoned  strips  of  larding  pork; 
put  in  sauce  pan  with  carrot,  onion,  celery, 
parsley,  whole  cloves  and  mace  with  a  little 
garlic,  covered  with  consomme  and  sherry  wine, 
cover  put  on,  then  simmered  till  tender,  meat 
then  taken  up,  the  liquor  strained,  skimmed, 
and  reduced,  half  of  which  is  taken  to  moisten 
some  boiled  and  drained  macaroni,  mixed  with 
grated  Parmesan  cheese.  The  beef  served  in 
portions,  garnished  with  the  macaroni,  and  a 
spoonful  of  the  remaining  glaze  poured  over 
the  meat,  (called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la 
PIEMONTAISE). 
GLAZED  RIBS  OF  BEEF  WITH  VEGE- 
TABLES—The  lean  short  ribs  of  beef  cooked 
same  as  in  the  preceding  receipt,  served  in  por- 
tion pieces,  garnished  with  glazed  shapes  of 
carrot,  turnip,  onions  and  artichokes,  with  a 
little  of  the  glaze  poured  over  the  meat,  (called, 
BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  BOURGEOISE). 
GLAZED  RIBS  OF  BEEF  WITH  POTATO 
CROQUETTES  — Lean  short  ribs  of  beef 
larded  through  the  lean  with  strips  of  seasoned 
larding  pork;  put  in  a  sauce  pan  with  a  few 
shallots,  half  a  cup  of  fresh  grated  horseradish, 
parsley  and  green  onions,  the  meat  barely  cov- 
ered with  consomme  to  which  is  added  a  bottle 
of  Rhine  wine,  then  simmered  till  tender  and 
glazy;  when  done,  meat  taken  up,  the  liquor 
strained  and  skimmed,  little  red  currant  jelly 
and  grated  orange  rind  added  to  it  and  reduced; 
the  meat  served  in  portion  cuts,  with  a  little  of 
the  glaze  poured  over,  and  garnished  with  po- 
tato croquette  mixture  rolled  into  small  balls, 
dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  flour  and  fried 
very  quickly  in  hot  fat  (called,  BRAISED 
BEEF  k  la  BADEN-BADEN). 
BRAISED  BEEF,  GERMAN  STYLE  — A  top 
sirloin  of  beef  larded  slantwise  with  strips  of 
seasoned  larding  pork,  put  in  sauce  pan  with 
carrot,  onions,  celery,  parsley,  bay  leaves  and 
a  few  caraway  seeds,  barely  covered  with  stock 
and  simmered  till  tender  and  glazy,  then  taken 
up,  the  liquor  strained,  skimmed  and  reduced 


to  glaze,  the  meat  served  in  slices  with  a  little 
of  the  glaze  and  garnished  with  sauerkraut  and 
small  shaped  potatoes  boiled  and  sprinkled 
with  parsley  butter  (called,  BRAISED  BEEF 
k  lALLEMANDE.) 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF,  GARNISHED 
— The  braised  sirloin  of  the  preceding,  but  the 
caraway  seeds  omitted  in  the  seasonings;  when 
done  is  served  in  slices  and  garnished  with 
stoned  olives,  mushrooms,  truffles,  cockscombs 
and  kernels,  green  peas  and  small  pieces  of 
sweetbreads,  all  made  hot  in  the  glaze  with  the 
addition  of  a  little  Espagnole  sauce  (called, 
BRAISED  BEEF  ^l  la  FINANClfeRE). 
BRAISED  BEEF  WITH  RAVIOLIS— Top  sir- 
loin of  beef  larded,  put  in  sauce  pan  with  car- 
rot, onions,  celery,  thyme,  bay  leaves,  cloves, 
allspice,  garlic,  claret  wine  and  enough  con- 
somme to  barely  cover  the  meat,  simmered  till 
tender  and  glazy,  taken  up,  liquor  strained, 
skimmed  and  reduced  to  a  glaze;  meat  served 
in  slices  with  some  of  the  glaze  and  garnished 
with  small  molds  of  boiled  macaroni  sprinkled 
with  Parmersan  cheese  and  small  raviolis, 
(called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  MILANAISE). 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  QUE- 
NELLES— Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised  with 
vegetables,  spices  and  consomme;  served  in 
slices  and  garnished  with  a  ragout  of  small 
quenelles  of  poultry  or  game,  cockscombs  and 
kernels,  and  slices  of  braised  poultry  livers 
(called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  RICHELIEU). 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  MUSH- 
ROOMS— Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised  with 
vegetables,  spices  and  consomme;  meat  taken 
up  when  done,  the  liquor  strained  and  skimmed, 
sherry  wine  and  Espagnole  sauce  added  to  it; 
meat  served  in  slices,  garnished  with  fried 
mushrooms,  and  sauce  poured  around. 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  TRUF- 
FLES— Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised,  meat 
taken  up  when  done,  the  liquor  strained,  skim- 
med, Madeira  wine  added  to  it  and  reduced; 
meat  served  in  slices,  garnished  with  a  ragout 
of  truflfles,  diced  sweetbreads,  and  small  veal 
queneUes  (called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  GOD- 
ARD). 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  WITH  RICE  CRO- 
QUETTES— Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised, 
meat  taken  up,  liquor  strained  and  reduced  to 
a  glaze,  meat  served  in  slices  with  some  of  the 
glaze  poured  around,  and  garnished  with  small 
croquettes  of  rice  that  have  been  seasoned  with 
savory  herbs  and  meat  glaze,  (called,  BRAISED 
BEEF  k  I'ORSINI). 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  WITH  SPRING  VEGE- 
TABLES— Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised, 
taken  up  when  done,  liquor  strained,  skimmed 
and  reduced  to  a  glaze;  meat  served  in  slices 
with  it,  and  garnished  with  glazed  carrot,  onion, 
brussels  sprouts  and  red  or  green  cabbage, 
(called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  FLAMANDE) 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


BRAISED  SIRLOIN  WITH  STUFFED  PO- 
TATOES—Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised, 
taken  up  when  done,  liquor  strained,  skimmed, 
and  reduced  to  a  glaze;  meat  served  in  slices 
with  it,  and  garnished  with  potatoes  that  have 
been  cut  out  with  the  largest  size  potato  scoop, 
centre  taken  out  of  the  potatoes  with  a  column 
cutter,  blanched,  drained,  'he  holes  filled  with 
a  savory  forcemeat,  then  baked  till  done  and 
brown  with  butter,  (called,  BRAISED  BEEF 
ilaBIGNONNE). 
^RAISED  SIRLOIN  WITH  HORSERADISH 
— Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised,  taken  up 
when  done,  the  liquor  strained,  skimmed  and 
added  to  it  is  Espagnole  sauce,  red  currant 
jelly,  horseradish,  grated  lean  ham,  port  wine 
and  Harvey  sauce;  it  is  then  rapidly  boiled 
down  to  glaze;  meat  served  in  slices  with  some 
of  the  sauce,  and  garnished  with  steamed  arti- 
choke bottoms,  filled  with  grated  fresh  horse- 
radish, (called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  NAPOL- 
ITAINE). 
BRAISED  SIRLOIN  WITH  STUFFED  TO- 
MATOES—Top  sirloin  larded  and  braised, 
taken  up  when  done,  the  liquor  strained,  skim- 
med, and  mixed  with  Espagnole  sauce,  minced 
fried  mushrooms  and  sherry  wine,  then  rapidly 
reduced  to  a  glaze;  the  meat  served  in  slices 
with  some  of  the  sauce,  and  garnished  with 
stuffed  tomatoes  and  stuffed  glazed  onions, 
(called,  BRAISED  BEEF  k  la  PRO  VENCALE) 
TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  MUSH- 
ROOMS— Tenderloin  roasted  with  some  sliced 
vegetables  in  the  pan,  mushrooms  lightly  fried 
in  butter,  then  put  into  a  rich  brown  sauce 
containing  sherry  wine;  the  meat  served  in 
slices  and  garnished  with  the  mushrooms  in 
sauce. 
TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  VEGE- 
TABLES--Tenderloin  trimmed,  larded  and 
braised,  the  liquor  strained,  skimmed  and 
mixed  with  a  rich  brown  sauce  containing  sherry 
or  madeira  wine,  reduced  to  a  half  glaze;  car- 
rots, tu  mips  and  celery  are  cut  into  neat  pieces, 
boiled  separately  in  white  consomme  with  a 
little  sugar  and  butter,  when  done  strained  and 
mixed  together  with  some  French  peas;  meat 
served  in  slices  with  some  of  the  sauce  and  gar- 
nished with  the  vegetables  (called,  FILLET 
OF  BEEF  k  la  JARDINlfiRE).  When  the 
vegetables  are  cut  into  minute  squares  and 
.diamonds  it  is  (called,  2i  la  PRINT  ANifiRE) 
When  the  vegetables  are  scooped  out  with  a 
medium  sized  scoop  it  is  (called,  k  la  PARIS- 
lENNE).  When  taken  out  of  cans  or  cut  in 
very  small  fancy  shapes  and  mixed  with  French 
string  beans  cut  small  and  flageolets  it  is  (called 
k  la  MACEDOINE).  When  carrots,  turnips, 
celery,  leeks  and  onions  are  cut  in  strips  like 
matches,  it  is  ^called,  Ji  la  JULIENNE).  When 
the  Julienne  vegetables  are  mixed  with  a  Hol- 
landaise,  Allemande  or  yellow  cream  sauce  it  is 
(called,  k  la  NIVERNAISE). 


[It  is  optional  with  the  cook  whether  he  adds 
asparagus  points  and  small  flowerets  of  cauliflower 
to   the  above   groups  of  vegetables,   it  is  still  a 
simple   garniture   of  vegetables,    appropriate   to 
either  braised  or  roasted   tenderloin,   understood 
by  the  guest  when  written  in  plain  English,  and 
often   uncalled   for  and   consequently   left    over 
when  the  "k  la"  is  attached.     Any   of   the   fore- 
going garnitures  given  to  braised  sirloins,   apply 
equally  to  braised   tenderloins  of  beef  and  need 
not  be  repeated  under  the  heading  of  tenderloin; 
also   the   vegetable   garnitures   above   given   are 
equally  appropriate  to  braised  sirloins  of  beef.] 
TENDERLOIN    OF    BEEF,    SAUCE   BEAR- 
NAISE — Tenderloin   trimmed   and    larded    is 
either  braised  or  roasted  with  vegetables;  served 
in  slices  with  Bearnaise  sauce. 
TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  CUSTARDS 
— Tenderloin   larded    and    either    braised    or 
roasted  with  vegetables,  served  in  slices  with  a 
half  glaze  containing  Madeira  or  Malaga  wine. 
Garnished  with  slices  or  small  molds  of  cus- 
tards made  of  stirred  yolks  of  eggs  mixed  with 
very  small  cut  vegetables  of  various  colors  and 
a  little  consomme;    this  vegetable  custard   is 
then   poured   into   a  pan   or   small   mold  and 
placed  in  a  pan  containing  water,  then,   with  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  the  mold,   the  pan 
is  put   in   the   oven   and  the  custard  cooked, 
(called,  FILET  k  la  TALLEYRAND). 
TENDERLOIN  OF   BEEF    WITH    CEPES— 
Tenderloin  trimmed,  larded,  and  either  braised 
or  roasted  with  vegetables;  the  cepes  drained 
from  the  oil  in  the  cans,  cut  into  slices,  lightly 
fried  in  butter,  taken  up  and  added  to  a  rich 
brown  sauce,  served  with  slices  of  the  meat. 
TENDERLOIN     OF     BEEF    WITH      ARTI- 
CHOKES—Tenderloin   trimmed,    larded,   and 
either  braised  or  roasted  with  vegetables,  served 
in   slices,    garnished   with    artichoke    bottoms 
filled  with  a  ragout  of  trufiSes,  mushrooms  and 
strips  of  smoked  tongue  (called,   FILLET  OF 
BEEF  k  la  BAYARD). 
TENDERLOIN  OF  BEEF  WITH  STUFFED 
PEPPEkS  —  Tenderloin   larded   and   roasted, 
served  in  slices  with  a  little  Andalusian  sauce 
poured  around,   and  garnished  with  a  stuffed 
tomato  at  one  end,  and  a  stuffed  green  pepper 
at  the  other,  (called,  FILLET   OF   BEEF  k 
I'ANDALOUSE). 
TENDERLOIN      STEAK,     BORDELAISE  — 
Steak  broiled  and  served  with  a  brown  Borde- 
laise  sauce,  or  with  some  finely  minced  shallots, 
garlic  and  parsley  fried  in  oil  and  butter,  with 
lemon  juice  added  at  the  finish;  garnished  with 
chips. 
TENDERLOIN    STEAK,    PARISIAN    POTA- 
TOES— Steak  broiled  and  served   with   some 
mSitre  d'hotel  butter  poured  over  it  and  gar- 
nished with  Parisian  potatoes. 
TENDERLOIN  STEAK,  SAUCE  BEARNAISE 
— Steak   broiled  and   served    with    Bearnaise 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


I? 


sance  at  one  end,  and  Julienne  potatoes  with  a 
sprig  of  parsley  at  the  other. 

f  ILLETS  OF  BEEF  WITH  STRING  BEANS 
— Tenderloin  steaks  larded  on  one  side,  broiled, 
served  with  French  string  beans  made  hot  in 
miitre  d'hotel  butter  at  one  end,  and  a  slice  of 
fancy  toast  at  the  other. 

FILLETS  OF  BEEF,  SAUCE  PROVENCALE 
— Tenderloin  steaks  larded  on  one  side,  broiled, 
served  with  some  provengale  sauce  poured 
around  the  steak,  and  a  small  stuffed  tomato  at 
each  end. 

TENDERLOIN  STEAK  SAUT£ED.  WITH 
PEPPERS— Steak  saut^ed  in  butter;  minced 
green  peppers  fried  in  butter,  drained,  mixed  in- 
to brown  sauce,  served  around  the  steak  with  a 
stuffed  green  pepper  at  each  end,  and  some 
neat  slices  of  pimentoes  decorating  the  top  of 
the  steak. 

TENDERLOIN  STEAK, SAUCE  PERIGUEUX 
— Steak  broiled,  served  with  sauce  perigueux 
poured  around  it,  top  of  steak  decorated  with 
slices  of  truffles,  a  few  chip  potatoes  at  one  end 
of  the  dish,  and  a  fancy  crofiton  with  a  sprig  of 
parsley  at  the  other  end. 

HAMBURG  STEAK  WITH  ONIONS— Minced 
raw  beef  and  onions  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  mixed  thoroughly  and  formed  into  flat 
balls  or  steaks,  fried  in  butter  fill  done,  served 
either  plain  or  with  a  sauce. 

TOMATOED  HAMBURG  STEAK  —  Minced 
raw  beef  and  solid  meat  of  the  tomatoes  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper,  thoroughly  mixed 
and  formed  into  steaks;  either  broiled  or  fried 
in  butter;  served  with  tomato  sauce  poured 
around. 

SALISBURY  STEAK  WITH  GRILLED  PO- 
TATOES—Minced  raw  beef  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper  made  into  form  of  steaks,  either 
broiled,  or  fried  in  butter;  served  garnished 
with  sliced  broiled  potatoes  (plain  or  sweet) 
and  some  miitre  d'hotel  butter  on  the  steak. 

SALISBURY  STEAK  WITH  MUSHROOMS— 
Prepared  and  cooked  same  as  the  preceding; 
served  with  some  fried  mushrooms  at  one  end 
of  the  dish,  and  chip  potatoes  at  the  other. 

ENGLISH  BEEF  SOUP— Pieces  of  raw  beef 
cut  small,  with  carrots,  turnips,  onions  and 
celery  cut  in  dice,  placed  in  soup  pot  with 
butter  and  lightly  fried,  flour  then  added  and 
stirred  to  form  a  roux,  moistened  with  boiling 
beef  stock;  when  about  half  done,  pearl  barley 
is  washed  and  added  to  the  soup,  also  some 
whole  allspice,  peppers,  cloves,  thyme  and  bay 
leaves  tied  in  a  piece  of  muslin;  when  the  soup 
is  finished,  the  spices  removed,  seasoned  with 
Worcestershire  sauce  and  chopped  parsley. 
SOME  COOKS  ARE  IN  THE  HABIT  OF 
PUTTING  TOMATOES  IN  THIS  SOUP, 
WHICH  IS  DECIDEDLY  WRONG. 

BEEF  BROTH  WITH  CELERY— Into  the  soup 
pot  is  olaced  plenty  of  roast  beef  bones  and 
Clear  gravy  with  slices  of  carrot,  onions,  roots 


and  trimmings  of  celery;  filled  up  with  strong 
beef  stock,  simmered  till  done,  strained  and 
skimmed;  meanwhile  celery  cut  in  inch  strips 
like  matches  is  fried  lightly  in  butter,  then  sim- 
mered till  tender  and  added  to  the  soup. 

SCOTCH  BEEF  SOUP— Prepared  exactly  the 
same  as  "English  beef  soup"  above,  except 
using  Scotch  oatmeal  (procurable  anywhere) 
instead  of  pearl  barley,  and  adding  Madeira 
wine  at  the  finish. 

BEEF  BROTH  WITH  RICE— Prepared  as  for 
"beef  broth  with  celery,"  but  after  the  broth 
is  strained  and  skimmed,  allowed  to  boil  up 
again,  thickened  lightly  with  corn  starch,  and 
well  washed  boiled  rice  added  with  a  seasoning 
of  walnut  catsup. 

BEEF  BOUILLON  WITH  CRUSTS —Plenty 
of  cold  roast  beef  bones  and  clear  gravy  put 
into  the  soup  pot  with  some  chopped  fresh  beef, 
NO  SPICES,  but  a  carrot  and  onion;  filled  up 
with  good  beef  stock,  simmered  for  several 
hours,  then  strained  through  a  consomme  cloth, 
skimmed,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
served  with  small  toast.  Also  served  plain  in 
cups  with  a  thin  slice  of  lemon. 

OX  TAIL,  THICK— Prepare  the  "bouillon- 
above;  ox  tails  cut  in  slices  half  inch  thick, 
carrots  and  turnips  cored  out  with  large  sized 
column  cutter  and  sliced  to  resemble  the  tails 
but  thinner,  all  placed  with  sliced  onions  in 
soup  pot  and  fried  lightly  with  butter  or  beef 
drippings,  flour  added  to  form  a  roux,  moistened 
with  the  boiling  bouillon,  simmered  till  done, 
skimmed,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  Worces- 
tershire sauce  and  sherry  wine. 

OX  TAIL  CLEAR— Prepare  the  "bouillon" 
above  and  place  it  on  the  fire  with  some  trim- 
mings of  carrot,  turnip,  onions  and  celery,  also 
the  thick  and  thin  ends  of  the  tails  that  have 
been  previously  browned  in  the  oven,  simmered 
till  done,  then  strained  and  clarified,  the  middle 
part  of  the  oxtails  cut  in  slices  with  carrot  and 
turnip  to  match,  boiled  separately  in  consomme 
till  tender  and  glazy,  added  to  the  clarified 
broth  with  sherry  wine. 

BEEF  CROQUETTES  WITH  PEAS— A  strong 
roast  beef  gravy  thickened  with  roux  and  sea- 
soned with  Worcestershire  sauce  is  then  reduced 
till  thick,  cold  roast  or  other  cooked  beef  is  cut 
very  small  and  stirred  into  the  boiling  sauce; 
when  thoroughly  heated  through  it  is  turned 
into  a  pan  about  an  inch  deep,  smoothed  with 
a  knife,  covered  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper 
and  allowed  to  become  cold,  then  divided  into 
pieces  of  the  size  required,  rolled  into  finger 
lengths,  breaded  and  fried,  served  in  twos  laid 
slantwise  across  the  dish,  seasoned  green  peas 
placed  between  them,  and  mushroom  sauce  at 
each  end,  with  croquette  frills  stuck  in  the  cro- 
quettes if  used. 

BEEF  COLLOPS  WITH  MUSHROOMS  — 
Cold  cooked  beef  is  trimmed  and  cut  in  circles 
size  of  a  dollar  but  thicker,  made  hot  in  a  thick 


M 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


rich  beef  gravy;  served  overlapping  each  other 
down  the  centre  of  the  dish,  with  some  fried 
mushrooms  in  sauce  down  both  sides,  and  a 
fancy  croflton  at  each  end.  This  dish  may  also 
be  served  with  a  garnish  of  green  peas,  kidney 
beans,  French  string  beans,  mixed  vegetables, 
small  quenelles  or  fancy  potatoes. 

BEEF  CAKES  WITH  EGG— Cold  cooked  beef 
minced  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  powdered 
savory,  moistened  slightly  with  roast  beef  gravy, 
made  into  cakes  like  Hamburg  steaks,  placed 
in  pan  with  a  glazy  gravy  poured  over  them; 
when  thoroughly  heated,  served  with  a  poached 
egg  on  top,  and  some  thick  roast  beef  gravy 
poured  around. 

BEEF  CUTLETS  WITH  PIQUANTE  SAUCE 
— The  "beef  croquette"  mixture  above,  when 
cold  formed  in  the  shape  of  veal  chops,  using  a 
piece  of  macaroni  to  imitate  the  bone;  when 
shaped,  rolled  in  flour,  then  dipped  in  beaten 
egg  and  fried  in  hot  dripping;  served  with 
Piquante  sauce  poured  around. 

BEEF  RISSOLES— Cold  cooked  beef  minced 
three  parts,  grated  bread  crumbs  one  part, 
mixed  and  seasoned  with  herbs,  grated  lemon 
rind,  salt  and  pepper,  bound  with  raw  yolks  of 
eggs,  made  into  shapes  and  size  of  eggs,  breaded 
and  fried;  served  with  a  mound  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes in  the  centre  of  dish,  a  rissole  at  each 
end  and  side,  with  some  thickened  roast  beef 
gravy  poured  around,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley  put 
into  the  potatoes.  This  dish  may  also  be  served 
with  kidney  beans,  green  peas,  French  string 
beans  or  mixed  vegetables  instead  of  the  pota- 
toes. 

BEEF  RISSOLETTES— Same  as  the  preceding 
but,  made  smaller,  served  and  garnished  the 
same  way. 

BEEF  PATTIES  WITH  MUSHROOMS— Cold 
cooked  tender  beef  cut  into  small  dice,  mixed 
and  made  hot  in  a  rich  brown  mushroom  sauce, 
filled  into  patty  shells;  served  with  some  fried 
mushrooms  in  sauce  poured  around. 

BEEF  STEAK  AND  MUSHROOM  PIE— 
Pieces  of  raw  beef  cut  about  an  inch  square 
three  parts,  button  mushrooms  (fresh  or  can- 
ned) one  part,  mixed;  baking  dish  lined  on  the 
sides  with  short  paste,  meat  and  mushrooms 
put  in  with  a  little  flour,  salt,  pepper,  a  minced 
onion  and  savory  herbs,  filled  up  with  water  to 
just  cover  the  meat,  top  crust  put  on,  brushed 
over  with  beaten  egg  and  milk,  put  in  slow  oven 
and  gently  baked. 

BEEF  STEAK  AND  OYSTER  PIE— Same  as 
the  preceding,  but  omitting  the  mushrooms  and 
using  scalded  oyjter  liquor  instead  of  water; 
when  to  be  served,  a  few  blanched  oysters  kept 
hot  in  a  brown  sauce  placed  with  each  portion. 

BEEF  STEAK  AND  KIDNEY  PIE— Same  as 
"beef  steak  and  mushroom  pie"  but  using  pieces 
of  blanched  beef  kidney  instead  of  the  mush- 
rooms. 

BEEF  POT  PIE— A  rich  beef  stew   (white  or 


brown)  with  vegetables,  served  with  a  dumpling 
and  sprinkled  with  parsley;  or  the  stew  placed 
in  a  pan,  soft  dumpling  mixture  dropped  in 
pieces  all  over  it,  put  in  oven  and  baked;  or 
the  stew  left  in  the  saucepan,  dumplings  put  in, 
cover  put  on,  then  gently  simmered  till  dump- 
lings are  cooked. 

BEEF  PAUPIETTES.  MUSHROOM  SAUCE 
—  Thin  slices  of  cold  cooked  beef,  trimmed  to 
shape  of  envelope  with  the  flap  open,  spread 
with  a  cooked  forcemeat  composed  of  minced 
bacon,  chopped  parsley,  grated  lemon  rind, 
salt,  pepper  and  savory  herbs,  rolled  up  from 
the  broad  end  to  the  point,  this  pinned  with  a 
toothpick,  dipped  in  a  thin  batter  and  fried, 
toothpick  then  removed;  served  with  a  rich 
mushroom  sauce  poured  around. 

SCALLOPED  BEEF  WITH  OYSTERS— Small 
pieces  of  beef  already  made  tender  in  a  brown 
stew  seasoned  with  anchovy  essence;  oysters 
scalded  and  mixed  with  the  stew,  placed  in 
scallop  shells  or  dishes,  sprinkled  with  bread 
crumbs  and  Parmesan  cheese,  baked  in  oven 
and  served. 

DEVILLED  BEEF  WITH  OYSTERS  — Cold 
cooked  tender  beef  cut  in  finger  lengths  an  inch 
wide  and  half  inch  thick,  laid  in  a  mixture  of 
salt,  pepper,  olive  oil  and  Worcertershire  sauce 
for  an  hour,  then  lightly  fried  in  butter,  sprink- 
led with  parsley;  served  on  slices  of  buttered 
toast  same  size  as  the  meat  alternately  with 
broiled  oysters,  and  Diable  sauce  poured 
around. 

CURRIED  BEEF  WITH  RICE— Either  raw  or 
cooked  beef  rolled  in  flour,  then  fried  in  butter 
with  minced  onions;  when  lightly  browned,  put 
in  sauce  pan  with  butter,  flour  and  curry  pow- 
der, stirred  and  moistened  with  white  stock, 
boiled  up,  skimmed,  then  simmered  with  the 
addition  of  a  grated  green  apple,  lemon  juice 
and  a  little  chutney;  when  done,  the  meat  re- 
moved to  another  saucepan,  and  the  sauce 
strained  over  it;  served  with  a  border  of  dry 
boiled  rice. 

MINCED  BEEF  WITH  EGG— Either  minced 
or  finely  cut  cold  cooked  beef  seasoned  with 
savory  herbs,  salt  and  pepper  is  made  hot  in 
rich  roast  beef  gravy,  just  enough  to  moisten 
the  meat  only  being  used;  served  with  a  fancy 
border  of  mashed  potatoes,  the  mince  in  the 
centre,  and  a  poached  egg  on  top  of  the  mince. 

ROAST  BEEF  HASH— Minced  onion  lightly 
fried  in  butter  added  to  finely  cut  roast  beef 
two  parts,  and  minced  cold  potatoes  one  part, 
mixed  together,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
powdered  marjoram  with  a  very  little  roast 
beef  gravy;  the  whole  then  tossed  together, 
placed  in  a  pan  and  baked;  or  kept  in  a  sauce- 
pan over  a  slow  fire  till  thoroughly  heated;  or 
portions  put  into  a  frying  pan,  browned  on  both 
sides,  then  formed  into  shape  of  an  omelet; 
served  either  with  or  without  a  fried  or  poached 
egg,  and  with  a  crodton  at  ends  of  dish. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CORNED  BEEF  HASH— Prepared,  (onion  op- 
tional) cooked,  and  served  the  same  way  as 
"roast  beef  hash"  above,  but  omitting  the  herb, 
and  using  corned  instead  of  roast  beef. 

SPICED  JELLIED  BEEF— Leg  of  beef  freed 
from  all  bone,  cut  up  in  two  inch  pieces,  put  to 
boil  in  cold  water,  all  scum  taken  off  as  it  rises, 
then  gently  simmered  till  the  meat  falls  to 
pieces;  the  liquor  then  strained  from  the  meat, 
put  to  boil  again  for  half  an  hour  with  savory 
herbs,  salt  and  pepper,  then  strained,  skimmed 
from  all  fat,  and  while  cooling  a  very  little  gel- 
atine dissolved  in  it,  the  meat  shredded  and 
added  to  it,  poured  into  molds  to  get  perfectly 
cold  and  firm;  served  in  slices  garnished  with 
thinly  sliced  green  pickles. 

POTTED  BEEF  FOR  SANDWICHES —Lean 
roast  or  other  cold  cooked  beef  trimmings  three 
parts,  cold  corned  lean  beef  one  part,  minced 
fine,  then  pounded  to  a  paste  with  two  ounces 
of  cold  boiled  bacon  to  each  pound  of  beef, 

.  season  with  salt,  pepper,  ground  mace  and  a 
very  little  anchovy  essence;  when  in  paste  form, 
weigh  it,  then  work  in  melted  butter  at  the  rate 
of  two  ounces  to  the  pound;  after  thoroughly 
mixing,  the  paste  is  put  away  in  jars  with  a 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  of  melted  butter  poured 
over  the  top  to  seal  them  from  air,  (this  mixture 
kept  sealed  will  keep  many  weeks  without 
spoiling.) 

TOURNEDOS  OF  BEEF  WITH  OLIVES— 
Cold  cooked  beef  tenderloin  trimmed  to  a  pear 
shape,  slices  of  stale  bread  trimmed  the  same 
way,  both  cut  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  the 
bread  fried,  the  meat  made  hot  in  a  Piquante 
sauce;  served  on  the  toast,  garnished  with 
slices  of  stoned  olives,  and  the  sauce  poured 
around. 

MIROTON  OF  BEEF  WITH  VEGETABLES 
— Cold  cooked  tender  beef  cut  in  circular  pieces 
two  inches  in  diameter  and  half  an  inch  thick, 
sliced  onions  par-boiled,  then  fried  a  golden 
color  in  butter,  the  meat  arranged  in  a  pan  and 
just  covered  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce,  the 
onions  spread  over  the  whole,  placed  in  oven 
and  baked  till  the  sauce  is  reduced  to  a  glaze 
with  a  buttered  paper  over  the  onions;  the  cir- 
cles, with  the  onions  still  on  them,  served  gar- 
nished with  a  mixture  of  small  cut  cooked  vege- 
tables in  brown  sauce,  and  a  fancy  croflton  at 
each  end  of  the  dish. 

EMINCE  OF  BEEF  WITH  PEAS— Thin  slices 
of  tender  cooked  beef  about  the  size  of  half 
dollars,  made  hot  in  a  rich  thickened  roast  beef 
gravy,  served  overlapping  each  other  down  the 
centre  of  the  dish  and  the  green  peas  as  a 
border. 

SCALLOPS  OF  BEEF,  SAUCE  TRIANON— 
Evenly  cut  thin  slices  of  cold  cooked  beef  ten- 
derloin sauteed  with  minced  shallots  in  butter; 
served  overlapping  each  other  down  the  centre 
of  dish,  with  a  sauce  Trianon  down  each  side, 
and  a  fancy  croflton  at  each  end  of  the  dish. 


TENDERLOIN  WITH  BLOOD  GRAVY— 
Thick  tenderloin  steak  placed  between  two  in- 
ferior steaks,  then  broiled  till  done,  the  tender- 
loin served  on  a  hot  dish  with  the  gravy  of  the 
other  two  squeezed  over  it,  garnished  wit  fancy 
potatoes,  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  slices  of  lemon, 
(called,  FILET  k  la  CHATEAUBRIAND.) 

SAUTfe  OF  BEEF.  TRUFFLE  SAUCE— SmaU 
tenderloin  steaks,  seasoned,  then  fried  in  butter, 
served  garnished  with  a  crouton  at  each  end  of 
dish,  and  truffle  sauce  poured  around  the  steak, 
with  some  slices  of  truffles  on  top  (called,  MIG- 
NONS  DE  BOEUF  AUX  TRUFFES). 

SMALL  FILLETS  OF  BEEF  WITH  OY- 
STERS— Small  tenderloin  steaks,  seasoned, 
then  fried  in  butter,  large  oysters  scalded,  then 
tossed  quickly  over  a  fire  in  mSitre  d'hotel  but- 
ter containing  a  little  anchovy  essence;  the 
fillets  served  in  the  centre  of  the  dish  garnished 
with  the  oysters,  and  their  sauce  poured  around. 

SMALL  FILLETS  OF  BEEF,  miitre  d'hotel— 
Small  tenderloin  steaks,  seasoned,  then  fried 
in  butter,  served  garnished  with  fancy  fried 
potatoes,  and  miitre  d'hotel  butter  poured  over 
the  steak.  These  may  also  be  garnished  with 
a  mixture  of  small  cut  vegetables. 

RAGOUT  OF  BEEF,  CREOLE  SAUCE  — 
Small  pieces  of  beef  simmered  till  tender  in 
tomato  sauce  containing  chopped  sweet  pep- 
pers, minced  shallots,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
madeira  wine  and  madeira  sauce;  served  with 
the  sauce  around,  and  crodtons  at  end  of  the 
dish. 

BRAISED  BEEF  TONGUE  WITH  TOMA- 
TOES—  Fresh  tongue  soaked  in  cold  water 
over  night,  put  on  in  boiling  water  and  blanched 
for  ten  minutes,  taken  up,  root  and  superfluous 
fat  trimmed  away,  placed  in  sautoir  with  carrot, 
onions,  celery,  parsley,  whole  cloves  and  mace, 
covered  with  stock,  and  gently  simmered  till 
tender,  then  taken  up  and  placed  in  another 
saucepan,  the  braise  strained,  skimmed,  re- 
duced to  a  glaze  with  the  addition  of  some 
madeira  sauce,  this  poured  over  the  tongue; 
served  in  slices  with  some  sauce  poured  around, 
and  a  stuffed  tomato  at  each  end. 

SMOKED  TONGUE  WITH  SPINACH— The 
tongue  soaked  over  night,  put  on  to  boil  in  cold 
water  and  simmered  for  an  hour,  taken  up, 
placed  in  a  sautoir  with  some  vegetables  and 
covered  with  stock,  then  simmered  till  tender; 
served  in  slices  on  a  bed  of  spinach,  with  ma- 
deira sauce  poured  around. 

SMOKED  TONGUE  WITH  SAUER  KRAUT 
— The  tongue  soaked  over  night,  put  on  to  boil 
in  cold  water  and  simmered  for  an  hour,  taken 
up,  placed  in  saucepan  with  some  well  washed 
sauer  kraut,  an  onion  stuck  wi»h  cloves,  carrot, 
and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  moistened  with  stock 
to  cover  the  whole,  then  simmered  till  tender; 
served  in  slices  on  a  bed  of  the  kraut,  and  gar- 
nished with  glazed  young  carrots,  with 
Poivrade  sauce  around. 


i6 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CORNED  BEEF  TONGUE  WITH  SPINACH 
— The  tongue  put  to  boil  in  cold  water  and 
simmered  till  tender,  taken  up,  skinned,  and 
kept  in  hot  broth;  served  in  slices  on  a  bed  of 
spinach  with  some  Espagnole  sauce  poured 
around.  Brussels  sprouts,  or  a  jardiniere  or 
macedoine  of  vegetables,  form  an  appropriate 
garniture  to  boiled  corned  tongue;  also  the 
tongue  served  plain  with  either  raisin  or  Hol- 
landaise  sauce. 

BOILED  BEEF  HEART  WITH  HORSERA- 
DISH— The  heart  washed  and  freed  from  blood, 
boiled  till  tender  in  white  stock  with  whole 
mace,  carrot  and  onions;  served  in  slices  with 
horseradish  sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished 
with  a  small  white  turnip  hollowed  out,  steamed, 
and  filled  with  grated  horseradish,  or  the  tur- 
nip may  be  boiled  with  a  little  carmine  in  the 
water,  giving  it  a  reddish  color. 

ROAST  BEEF  HEART,  STUFFED— The  heart 
prepared  and  boiled  till  tender,  as  above;  taken 
up,  drained,  the  cavities  cut  out  and  the  space 
filled  with  a  sage  and  onion  stuflSng,  placed  in 
pan  with  brown  sauce  poured  over  it  and  baked 
till  glazy;  served  in  slices  on  a  bed  of  the  stuff- 
ing with  some  sauce  poured  around,  and  gar- 
nished with  potato  balls  at  one  end  and  French 
beans  at  the  other. 

BEEF  KIDNEY  SAUTfe— The  kidneys  cut  in 
small  pieces,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water,  when 
blanched,  poured  into  colander,  washed  and 
drained,  then  lightly  fried  in  butter,  sprinkled 
with  flour,  moistened  with  stock,  simmered  till 
tender,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  lemon 
juice;  served  with  a  border  of  potatoes  on  the 
dish,  kidneys  in  the  centre,  sprinkled  with 
chopped  parsley. 

BEEF  KIDNEY  SOUP- -The  kidneys  cut  small 
and  prepared  the  same  way  as  "kidney  saut^." 
The  soup  made  of  thin  Espagnole,  the  kidneys 
and  their  sauce  added  at  the  finish;  served  with 
small  toast. 

BRAISED  OX  TAILS  WITH  KIDNEY  BEANS 

,  — The  thick  end  of  the  tail  is  cut  into  portion 
pieces  and  placed  in  saucepan  with  carrot, 
onions,  celery,  bay  leaves,  thyme  and  parsley, 
covered  with  stock  and  simmered  till  tender 
and  glazy,  then  taken  up,  the  liquor  strained, 
skimmed  and  added  to  a  Madeira  sauce,  poured 
over  the  tails;  served  with  a  border  of  green 
kidney  beans,  and  a  fancy  crodton  at  each  end 
of  dish. 

HARICOT  OF  OX  TAILS— The  tails  cut  into 
pieces  at  the  natural  joints,  fried  with  onions 
in  a  saucepan  till  onions  are  of  a  golden  color, 
flour  added  to  form  a  roux,  moistened  with 
stock,  allowed  to  simmer  for  an  hour,  skimmed, 
turnips  and  carrots  cut  about  size  of  the  joints 
are  then  added,  and  simmered  another  hour, 
then  small  potatoes  of  an  even  size  are  added; 
when  they  are  done,  season  with  salt,  pepper 
and   walnut  catsup;    served,   the  tails  in   the 


centre  of  the  dish,  garnished  alternately  with 
the  vegetables,  the  whole  sprinkled  with  chop- 
ped parsley. 

CURRIED  OX  TAILS  WITH  SPAGHETTI— 
The  tails  cut  into  sections  at  the  joints,  fried 
with  onions  in  a  saucepan  till  onions  are  of  a 
golden  color,  flour  and  curry  powder  added, 
shaken  together,  then  moistened  with  stock, 
simmered  till  tender,  meanwhile  adding  to  the 
sauce  a  grated  green  apple,  juice  of  a  lemon 
and  some  chutney;  when  done,  the  tails  taken 
up  into  another  saucepan  and  the  sauce  strained 
over  them;  served  with  a  border  of  boiled  spag- 
hetti cut  in  inch  pieces,  seasoned  with  Parme- 
san cheese. 

BEEF  SAUSAGES  — Lean  and  fat  raw  beef 
trimmings  two-thirds,  soaked  stale  bread  that 
is  squeezed  dry  one-third,  the  meat  is  put 
through  the  chopping  machine,  then  mixed 
with  the  bread  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper, 
sage,  thyme  and  a  little  farina,  the  whole  is 
then  put  through  the  machine  again;  when  it 
has  all  passed  through  cold  water  is  added  to 
the  desired  stiffness,  the  knife  taken  from  the 
machine,  filler  screwed  on;  the  salted  skins 
having  been  softened  in  water,  are  blown  and 
drawn  on  to  the  filler,  meat  placed  in  the  ma- 
chine, the  skins  filled  and  tied. 

SAUSAGE  CAKES  WITH  POTATOES— The 
sausage  meat  purchased  or  made  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  formed  into  round  cakes,  and 
either  fried  or  arranged  in  .a  baking  pan  and 
baked  till  done;  served  on  a  bed  of  mashed  po- 
tatoes with  a  little  brown  gravy  poured  around. 

BEETS — Are  of  three  colors  and  kinds  red,  white 
and  yellow;  the  white  is  mostly  used  in  produc- 
ing beet  sugar,  the  red  for  culinary  purposes, 
and  the  yellow  for  feeding  cattle. 

BEET  GREENS— The  leaves  of  the  young  beets 
are  washed,  put  to  boil  in  boiling  salted  water, 
containing  a  small  piece  of  common  washing 
soda;  when  done,  they  are  strained,  pressed, 
cut  up  fine,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
butter;  served  as  a  vegetable,  or  after  being 
pressed  they  may  be  rubbed  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  the  pur^e  thus  obtained,  seasoned 
and  served  the  same  as  spinach. 

PICKLED  BEETS  — The  small  smooth  beets 
washed  and  boiled  till  tender,  skinned,  cut  in 
thin  slices,  placed  in  a  crock,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  sugar,  bay  leaves,  and  covered 
with  vinegar. 

BOILED  BEETS  IN  BUTTER  SAUCE— Small 
new  beets  washed  and  boiled  till  done,  skinned, 
cut  in  sections  like  those  of  an  orange,  placed 
into  the  serving  crock,  and  a  sauce  composed 
of  water,  butter,  salt,  white  pepper  and  vine- 
gar, thickened  with  flour  poured  over  them. 

BEETS  FOR  GARNISHING— The  pickled  beets 
above  left  whole  and  cut  into  the  form  of  flow- 
ers, etc.,  or  the  slices  cut  or  stamped  with  fancy 
cutters. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


17 


BEET  AND  POTATO  SALAD— Small  balls  of 
cooked  beets  placed  in  tarragon  vinegar;  small 
balls  of  boiled  potatoes  placed  in  Ravigote 
sauce;  served  by  arranging  them  alternately  on 
the  dish. 

BEET  AND  EGG  SALAD— Slices  of  pickled 
beetroot  and  hard  boiled  eggs,  arranged  alter- 
nately around  a  dish,  with  some  pickled  white 
onions  in  the  centre;  served  with  cream  salad 
dressing. 

BEARNAISE — Name  of  a  sauce  used  with  steaks 
and  entrees,  composed  of  minced  shallots 
braised  with  tarragon  vinegar,  to  which  is 
added  a  thin  veloute  sauce,  then  some  beaten 
yolks  of  eggs,  continually  stirred  over  the  lire 
till  like  custard,  removed,  melted  butter  then 
beaten  in  at  the  rate  of  three  ounces  to  the  pint, 
seasoned  with  lemon  juice  and  red  pepper, 
strained,  finished  by  adding  chopped  parsley 
and  tarragon  leaves.  Some  cooks  omit  the 
veloute  sauce,  and  use  only  butter  and  egg 
yolks,  thus  making  a  kind  of  butter  mayonnaise, 
that  will  very  readily  disintegrate  if  allowed  to 
keep  hot. 

BECHAMEL — Name  of  a  white  sauce  composed 
of  reduced  chicken  broth  with  some  essence  of 
mushrooms,  an  equal  quantity  of  rich  milk  or 
cream,  boiled  up,  thickened  with  flour  and 
butter,  seasoned  with  salt,  lemon  juice  and 
grated  nutmeg,  then  strained  for  use. 

BENEDICTINE— The  name  of  a  liqueur  used 
as  a  cordial,  as  a  flavoring  to  sauces  and  con- 
fectionery, in  making  punches  and  other  drinks; 
it  resembles  "yellow  chartreuse"  in  flavor  and 
appearance,  is  made  principally  at  the  Abbey 
of  Fecamp  in  Europe. 

BISQUE — The  French  term  given  to  soups  made 
of  a  thick  puree  principally  of  shellfish  and 
game. 

BISQUE  OF  CRABS— Half  a  pound  of  rice 
boiled  to  each  gallon  of  soup;  when  done  add 
half  a  pound  of  crab  meat  to  each  gallon,  (good 
crab  meat  is  obtainable  any  time  of  the  year  in 
the  form  of  "McMenamin's  canned  deviled  crab 
meat"),  then  rub  the  whole  through  a  fine  sieve 
adding  a  little  melted  butter  and  a  seasoning  of 
nutmeg.  Make  the  stock  of  thin  velout^,  add 
the  rice  and  crab  puree,  bring  to  a  simmer, 
then  add  sliced  okras,  minced  red  and  green 
peppers,  sliced  tomatoes,  season  with  marjoram, 
thyme,  red  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  simmer 
slowly  for  one  hour  and  serve. 

BISQUE  OF  CRAYFISH— Use  all  crayfish  if 
you  can  get  them;  if  not,  get  a  dozen  or  two, 
which  boil  in  a  little  water  containing  salt, 
whole  peppers,  parsley  and  onions,  cook  them 
twenty  minutes,  drain,  cool,  pick  out  meat  from 
tails  and  claws,  throw  away  ttie  intestines, 
pound  the  rest,  shells  and  head,  also  some 
boiled  fish,  lobster  and  yolks  of  hard  boiled 
eggs  to  a  paste,  adding  some  melted  butter; 
boil  this  paste  with  a  little  veal  stock  for  an 
hour  till  dry,  then  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  add 


to  it  the  required  amount  of  good  white  broth, 
bring  to  a  boil,  add  the  meat  cut  up  from  the 
tails  and  claws,  a  little  lobster  coral  and  serve 
with  small  toast. 

BISQUE  OF  HERRING— Equal  parts  of  fresh 
and  smoked  herrings  are  boned,  skinned  and 
boiled  with  fresh  or  canned  lobster  in  seasoned 
fish  stock;  when  done,  it  is  rubbed  through  a 
sieve;  the  pur^e  then  added  to  a  clarified  fish 
broth;  served  with  small  quenelles  of  fish  and 
small  toast. 

BISQUE  OF  PRAWNS  (OR  SHRIMPS)— Made 
the  same  as  "Bisque  of  crayfish"  except  using 
all  prawns  or  shrimps. 

BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER— Meat  of  fresh  boiled 
lobsters  cut  into  small  squares,  the  tough  parts 
with  the  shells  and  claws  boiled  for  twenty 
minutes  longer,  the  coral  dried  in  a  slow  oven, 
the  stock  made  of  Bechamel  sauce  thinned  with 
the  water  the  fish  were  boiled  in,  the  coral 
then  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  added  to  the 
soup  giving  it  a  pinkish  appearance;  finished 
by  adding  the  squares  of  meat  and  some  small 
quenelles  of  lobster. 

BISQUE  OF  OYSTERS— Scalded  oysters  and 
boiled  rice  in  equal  bulk  rubbed  through  a 
sieve,  added  to  a  thin  cream  of  oyster  sou{>, 
flavored  with  mace  rnd  bay  leaves. 

BISQUE  OF  SALMON— Cooked  salmon  rubbed 
through  a  sieve  added  to  stock  composed  of 
equal  parts  of  court-bouillon  and  velout^  sauce, 
boiled  up,  seasoned,  finished  with  chopped 
parsley  and  Sauterne  wine, 

BISQUE  OF  PLOVERS— The  plovers  braised 
for  an  hour  in  madeira  sauce,  taken  up  and 
pounded,  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  boiled 
farina,  enough  to  thicken  the  quantity  of  the 
soup,  is  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  the  two  purees 
then  added  to  a  game  stock,  boiled  up,  skimmed, 
seasoned,  finished  with  port  wine. 

BISQUE  OF  PARTRIDGE— Braised  or  roast 
partridge  meat  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a 
sieve  with  white  bread  crumbs  and  a  puree  of 
chestnuts,  the  whole  then  added  to  a  game-flav- 
ored stock,  boiled  up,  skimmed,  seasoned,  fin- 
ished with  port  wine. 

BISQUE  OF  TERRAPIN— Terrapin  shells, 
heads  and  trimmings  simmered  in  consomme 
for  four  hours,  strained,  the  meat  rubbed 
through  a  sieve  and  put  back  into  the  strained 
stock  with  some  parsley,  thyme,  cloves,  mace, 
bay  leaves,  whole  peppers  and  minced  onions, 
all  tied  in  a  muslin  bag,  brought  to  a  boil, 
skimmed,  an  equal  quantity  of  veloute  sauce 
added,  simmered  for  a  few  minutes,  finished  by 
the  addition  of  some  boiling  cream. 

BISQUE  OF  JACK  RABBIT— The  rabbit  cat 
up  and  braised  with  spices  and  vegetables  in 
consomme  till  tender,  then  pounded  and  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  the  braise  strained,  the  purA* 
put  back  into  it,  boiled  up,  skimmed,  equal 
volume  of  thin  velout^  sauce  added  to  it,  sea- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


soned,  finished  with  sherry  wine,  and  served 
with  some  small  quenelles  of  rabbit. 

BLANCH  OR  BLANCHED— Foods  placed  to 
boil  in  cold  water,  removed  after  coming  to  the 
boil,  poured  into  a  colander  and  well  washed; 
and  in  the  case  of  almonds,  etc.,  the  skins  are 
then  easily  removed. 

BLANC  MANGE— Milk  put  to  boil,  containing 
sugar,  grated  orange  rind,  and  a  few  bitter  al- 
monds; when  boiled,  strain  into  another  sauce- 
pan, boiled  up  again,  then  thickened  with  corn 
starch,  and  poured  into  molds,  the  bottoms 
and  sides  of  which  may  be  decorated  with  crys- 
tallized fruits.  After  the  blanc  mange  is  made 
it  may  be  made  into  "ribbon  cream"  by  separ- 
ating it  into  four  vessels,  coloring  one  green 
and  flavoring  it  with  pistachios,  another  red 
with  a  rose  flavor,  another  with  some  boiling 
chocolate;  when  filling  the  molds,  the  white  is 
placed  first  and  the  chocolate  last. 

BLANQUETTE— A  term  often  used  in  describ- 
ing a  white  fricassee  of  white  meats,  such  as 
sweetbreads,  veal,  animal  brains,  spring  lamb, 
rabbit,  chicken,  etc.,  etc. 

BLACKBERRIES  —  Also  called  "dewberries," 
a  fruit  of  the  raspberry  species,  used  as  a  table 
fruit,  preserves,  made  into  brandies  and 
cordials. 

BLACKBERRIES  WITH  CREAM— The  ber- 
ries picked  over,  served  in  dishes  with  cream 
and  powdered  sugar. 

BLACKBERRY  PUDDING— Picked  over  black- 
berries 3  quarts,  flour  2  pounds,  baking  soda 
one  ounce.  New  Orleans  molasses  one  quart, 
little  salt,  the  whole  mixed  together  without 
water,  put  into  molds,  cover  tied  on,  boiled 
three  hours.  Served  with  sauce  DORfiE  com- 
posed of  half  pound  of  butter  beaten  till  creamy 
with  half  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  placed 
over  the  fire  and  two  beaten  yolks  of  eggs 
stirred  in;  when  thick,  work  in  half  a  pint  of 
brandy,  and  season  with  grated  nutmeg. 

BLACKBERRY  CHARLOTTE— Molds  or  pans 
lined  with  slices  of  buttered  bread,  sides  and 
bottoms,  then  filled  with  picked  over  berries, 
seasoned  with  sugar,  covered  with  slices  of 
buttered  bread,  sprinkled  with  sugar,  slowly 
baked  till  brown  and  glazy;  served  with  fruit 
sauce. 

BLACKBERRY  TARTLETTES— Small  fancy 
molds  lined  with  puff  paste  with  a  crimped 
edge,  filled  with  a  dry  compote  of  blackberries; 
baked;  when  done,  the  centre  decorated  with 
piped  meringue. 

BLACKBERRY  COMPOTE— The  picked  over 
berries  put  into  a  boiling  syrup  and  simmered 
till  tender;  served  in  small  croustades  of  sweet- 
ened rice. 

BLACKBERRY  PIE— Pie  plates  lined  with  pie 
paste,  berries  mixed  with  sugar  and  a  dusting 
of  flour,  the  plates  filled,  little  baking  soda 
sprinkled  over  the  fruit  to  prevent  the  juice 


running  out,  top  cover  placed  on,  washed  over 
with  pie  wash,  baked,  served  with  small  pieces 
of  cheese. 

BLACKBERRY  SHORTCAKE— Two  sheets  of 
short  paste,  spread  between  with  the  fruit  taken 
from  a  compote,  the  upper  sheet  spread  with 
whipped  cream  and  decorated  with  some  fresh 
berries. 

BLACKBERRY  JAM— Fresh  picked  over  ber- 
ries mixed  with  ten  ounces  of  sugar  to  each 
pound  of  fruit,  gradually  brought  to  a  simmer, 
then  allowed  to  cook  till  fairly  thick,  or  till  it 
sets  when  dropped  on  a  cold  dish. 

BLACKBIRDS— Can  be  obtained  nearly  all  the 
year  round  of  the  New  York  and  Chicago  game 
and  poultry  merchants;  they  are  very  cheap 
and  make  useful  entries. 

BLACKBIRDS  BROILED  ON  SKEWERS, 
(en  brochette) — The  birds  drawn,  wiped,  picked, 
and  wrapped  round  with  a  very  thin  slice  of 
bacjn,  run  on  skewers,  broiled,  served  on  toast, 
garnished  with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 

COMPOTE  OF  BLACKBIRDS  — The  black- 
birds picked,  drawn,  wiped  and  trussed,  then 
quickly  browned  with  butter  in  a  hot  oven, 
taken  up,  placed  in  a  game  sauce  and  simmered 
till  tender;  served  in  croustades  with  some 
sauce  poured  around. 

SALMIS  OF  BLACKBIRDS— The  blackbirds 
picked,  drawn,  wiped  and  trussed,  quickly 
roasted,  then  placed  in  a  game  sauce  with  some 
mushrooms  and  stoned  olives;  when  done, 
served  with  a  fancy  crouton  at  ends  of  the  dish, 
and  the  sauce  poured  over  the  birds;  garnish 
with  the  mushrooms  and  olives. 

BLACKBIRD  PIE— The  blackbirds  picked, 
drawn,  wiped  and  stuffed  with  breadcrumbs 
mixed  with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley,  nut- 
meg and  eggs,  trussed,  quickly  made  brown  in 
the  oven,  placed  in  pie  dish,  covered  with  game 
sauce  and  some  sliced  hard  boiled  eggs,  cov- 
ered with  pie  paste  and  baked. 

BLACKBIRDS  IN  POTATOES— The  blackbird 
picked,  drawn,  wiped  and  an  oyster  placed  in- 
side, trussed,  quickly  browned  in  the  oven  with 
butter.  Evenly  peeled  potatoes  (Irish  or  sweet) 
split  in  halves  lengthwise,  hollowed  out,  the 
bird  placed  in,  tied  with  string,  baked  and 
basted  with  butter;  when  the  potato  is  done, 
so  is  the  bird;  served  with  game  sauce  poured 
around,  and  fancy  croutons  at  ends. 

BLACKFISH— A  black  skinned  fish  of  the  perch 
species,  found  plentifully  South. 

FRIED  BLACKFISH  WITH  BACON  —  The 
fish  scaled,  trimmed,  seasoned,  rolled  in  flour; 
the  bacon  fried;  the  fish  then  fried  in  the 
bacon  fat;  served  with  a  slice  of  the  bacon, 
garnished  with  chip  potatoes,  parsley,  and  a 
slice  of  lemon. 

BROILED  BLACKFISH  WITH  PARSLEY 
BUTTER— The  fish  scaled,  trimmed,  scored, 
brushed  with  melted  butter,  seasoned,  rolled  in 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK 


flour,  brushed  again  with  butter  and  broiled; 
served  with  miitre  d'hotel  butter  poured  over 
the  fish,  and  garnished  with  Julienne  potatoes. 

BLACKFISH  SAUXfi  WITH  FINE  HERBS— 
The  fish  scaled,  trimmed,  seasoned,  rolled  in 
flour,  sauted  in  butter,  then  placed  in  another 
safltoir  containing  fines  herbes  sauce,  simmered 
for  a  few  minutes,  served  with  some  of  the 
sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished  with  Par- 
isienne  potatoes. 

BAKED  BLACKFISH,  OYSTER  SAUCE— The 
fish  scaled,  trimmed,  seasoned,  placed  in  a 
baking  pan,   brown  oyster  sauce  strained  over 


X9 

the  breast,  when  nearly  done,  the  bacon  re- 
moved, the  breast  dredged  with  flour  and 
melted  butter,  then  browned;  served  with  bread 
sauce,  and  some  of  the  gravy  poured  around. 

BLACK  PUDDING— Often  seen  on  the  bill  of 
fare  as  "Boudin  Noir,"  they  are  made  of  sheeps, 
or  pigs'  blood  and  chopped  suet,  seasoned, 
filled  into  intestines,  smoked,  boiled,  and  when 
cold,  served  in  thin  slices  as  an  appetiser. 

BLOATERS— Are  smoked  herrings,  and  the  best 
are  imported  from  "YARMOUTH"  a  sea  port 
city  of  England,  which  city  has  never  found  an 
equal  rival  in  this  production. 


the  fish,   baked  to  a  glazy  appearance;  served   TOASTED    BLOATERS  —  The  head   removed 


with  a  brown  oyster  sauce  poured  over  the  fish, 
and  garnished  with  small  potato  croquettes. 

BOILED  BLACKFISH,  ITALIAN  SAUCE— 
The  fish  scaled,  trimmed  and  put  to  boil  in 
boiling  water  containing  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  slices  of  carrots,  salt,  bay  leaves  and  a 
little  vinegar,  simmered  till  done;  served  with 
a  white  Italian  sauce,  and  garnished  with  quart- 
ers of  small  potatoes  sprinkled  with  parsley. 

BLACKDIVER— Name  of  a  wild  duck  held  in 
great  esteem  by  epicures,  is  at  its  best  in  the 
form  of  salmis,  or  braised  and  served  with  a 
little  grated  chocolate  dissolved  in  the  sauce. 

BLACK  COCK— Often  seen  on  "bills  of  fare"  as 
Coq  de  Bruyere,  Heath  fowl,  Black  game  and 
Black  grouse. 

BRAISED  BLACK  GROUSE— The  bird  picked, 
singed,  drawn  and  wiped,  the  breast  larded 
with  thin  strips  of  seasoned  larding  pork; 
placed  in  a  saucepan  with  some  bacon  trim- 
mings, carrot,  onions,  whole  cloves  and  peppers, 
moistened  with  a  game  sauce  and  a  dash  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  simmered  in  the  oven  till 
tender;  when  done,  taken  up,  the  braise  strained 
Burgundy  wine  added  to  it,  then  reduced;  the 
bird  served  with  some  of  the  sauce  poured  over 
it,  and  garnished  with  small  sausage  balls. 

BROILED  BLACK  COCK  WITH  JELLY— 
The  young  birds  picked,  singed,  drawn  and 
wiped,  split  down  the  back,  backbone  and  breast 
bone  removed,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
brushed  with  butter,  broiled;  served  on  toast 
with  a  sauce  made  of  jelly  and  butter  melted 
and  beaten  together,  poured  over  the  bird,  a 
little  currant  jelly  served  separate,  garnished 
with  chip  potatoes,  and  a  sprig  of  parsley. 

SALMIS  OF  HEATH  FOWL— The  birds  picked, 
drawn,  singed  and  wiped,  disjointed,  roasted 
lightly;  placed  in  a  saucepan  with  game  sauce, 
made  from  the  head,  feet,  liver,  heart,  neck 
and  gizzard;  simmered  till  tender,  seasoned 
with  sherry  wine  and  essence  of  mushrooms; 
served  with  some  of  the  sauce  poured  over  the 
bird,  and  garnished  with  fried  button  mush- 
rooms. 

ROAST  BLACK  GAME,  BREAD  SAUCE— 
The  bird  picked,  drawn,  singed,  wiped  and 
trussed,  roasted  with  a  slice  of  bacon  tied  over 


with  the  entrails  without  opening  the  fish, 
which  is  done  by  cutting  the  neck  across  the 
back  and  drawing  the  entrails  with  the  gills, 
they  are  then  washed  in  cold  water,  wiped  dry. 
and  slowly  broiled;  served  with  melted  butter, 
garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

BAKED  YARMOUTH  BLOATERS  IN  SAUCE 
— The  fish  drawn,  then  blanched,  taken  up  and 
skinned,  the  flesh  lifted  off  in  fillets  free  from 
bone,  then  laid  in  pan,  and  covered  with  a  thick 
anchovy  sauce  containing  a  little  bloater  paste, 
sprinkled  with  grated  cheese  and  bread  crumbs, 
baked;  served  garnished  with  fancy  potatoes. 

YARMOUTH  BLOATERS  SAUTES— The  fil- 
lets prepared  as  in  the  preceding,  then  lightly 
fried  in  butter,  seasoned  with  red  pepper, 
sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley;  served  on  toast 
garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

BLUEFISH— A  great  favorite  and  in  good  de- 
mand in  any  form  on  the  bill  of  fare,  although 
baked  or  broiled  have  the  most  calls;  a  six 
pound  fish  cuts  to  best  advantage  for  restaurant 
use,  cutting  five  good  portions;  a  four  to  five 
pound  fish  being  too  thin  for  restaurants,  but 
just  the  thing  for  a  coarse  dinner. 

BLUEFISH  STUFFED  AND  BAKED— The 
fish  scaled,  trimmed,  wiped  dry  and  filled  with 
a  stuffing  composed  of  cooked  veal  two  parts, 
boiled  bacon  one  part,  and  grated  bread  crumb: 
one  part,  the  meat  chopped  fine,  then  mixed 
with  the  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  marjoram,  thyme,  mace,  and  lemon 
juice,  mixed  thoroughly  and  slightly  moistened 
with  fish  broth;  when  filled,  the  opening  sewn 
up,  the  fish  dredged  with  flour  and  put  in  a  pan 
with  carrot,  turnip,  onion,  a  few  cloves,  claret 
wine  and  consomm^;  baked;  when  done,  taken 
up,  and  to  the  pan  is  added  some  Espagnole 
sauce;  boiled  up,  strained;  served  with  some 
of  the  sauce,  and  garnished  with  Duchesse 
potatoes. 

BLUEFISH  STEAKS,  ITALIAN  SAUCE— The 
fish  cut  into  steaks,  and  arranged  in  a  buttered 
pan  containing  some  minced  shallots,  white 
wine  and  mushroom  liquor,  covered  with  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper,  baked;  when  done, 
taken  up,  some  Italian  sauce  strained  into  the 
pan,  boiled  up,  and  strained  baok  into  a  rich 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Italian  sauce:  served  with  some  of  the  sauce 
poured  over,  and  garnished  with  HoUandaise 
potatoes. 

BAKED  BLUEFISH  WITH  TOMATOES— 
The  fish  cut  in  portions,  seasoned,  dredged 
with  flour,  placed  in  a  buttered  pan,  to  which 
is  added  minced  onions,  tomato  sauce,  and  a 
can  of  tomatoes  that  have  been  strained  from 
their  juice;  baked;  when  done,  served  with 
some  of  the  tomatoes  poured  around,  and  gar- 
nished with  small  potato  croquettes. 

BOILED  BLUEFISH,  SHRIMP  SAUCE— The 
fish  cut  in  portions,  put  to  boil  in  boiling  fish 
broth  containing  salt,  peppers,  cloves,  carrot 
and  onion  in  slices,  with  a  dash  of  vinegar; 
when  done,  served  with  a  shrimp  sauce  poured 
around,  and  garnished  with  quartered  steamed 
potatoes  sprinkled  with  miitre  d'hotel  butter. 

BROILED  BLUEFISH  WITH  ANCHOVY 
BUTTER — The  fish  cut  in  portions,  seasoned, 
dredged  with  flour,  brushed  with  butter,  broiled; 
when  done,  served  with  some  anchovy  butter 
on  top  of  the  fish,  and  garnished  with  chip  po- 
tatoes, parsley,  and  a  slice  of  lemon. 

BAKED  BLUEFISH  WITH  FINE  HERBS— 
The  fish  cut  in  steaks,  seasoned,  dredge  with 
flour,  arranged  in  buttered  baking  pan,  covered 
with  a  fines-herbes  sauce,  baked;  served  with 
some  of  the  sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished 
with  potatoes  chateau.  Bluefish  prepared  as 
in  the  recipe  just  given,  may  also  be  served  and 
baked  with  Piquante,  Bordelaise  and  Tomato 
sauces. 

BLUEFISH  SAUTfe,  ADMIRAL  SAUCE— 
The  fish  cut  in  steaks,  seasoned,  dredged  with 
flour,  fried  in  butter;  when  done,  taken  up,  and 
into  the  pan  they  were  fried  in,  some  butter 
sauce  is  added,  boiled  up,  and  strained  into 
another  sautoir  containing  minced  fried  shal- 
lots, capers,  grated  lemon  rind,  and  pounded 
anchovies;  boiled,  skimmed,  the  fish  served  with 
the  sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished  with 
Cond6  potatoes. 

BLUEFISH  SAUTfe  WITH  ANCHOVIES— 
The  fish  cut  into  portions,  seasoned,  dredged 
with  flour,  fried  in  butter,  taken  up;  into  the 
pan  is  then  put  some  minced  shallots;  when 
browned,  anchovy  paste  and  lemon  juice  added, 
with  a  little  Bordelaise  sauce,  boiled  up, 
strained;  served  with  some  of  the  sauce,  and 
garnished  with  HoUandaise  potatoes. 

STUFFED  FILLETS  OF  BLUEFISH— The 
fish  filleted  and  cut  in  portions,  seasoned, 
dredged  with  flour,  quickly  broiled  on  the  cut 
side,  the  broiled  part  spread  with  a  thick 
v^lout^  sauce  containing  grated  ham,  minced 
fried  shallots,  mushrooms  and  chopped  parsley; 
when  all  <ire  spread,  placed  skin  side  down  in 
a  buttered  baking  pan,  with  a  little  white  wine, 
baked;  served  with  parsley  sauce  poured  around 
and  garnished  with  potato  quenelles. 

BAKED  BLUEFISH  IN  CRUMBS— The  fish 
cat  into  portion  pieces,  seasoned,  arranged  in 


a  buttered  baking  pan,  moistened  with  anchovy 
sauce,  sprinkled  with  grated  bread  crumbs  and 
melted  butter,  baked;  served  with  anchovy 
sauce,  and  garnished  with  Parisienne  potatoes. 

BAKED  BLUEFISH,  MATELOTE  SAUCE— 
The  fish  cut  in  steaks,  seasoned,  brushed  with 
butter,  arranged  in  pan,  moistened  with  claret 
wine,  baked;  when  done  on  one  side,  turned 
over  and  browned  on  the  other,  then  taken  up, 
and  to  the  wine  in  the  pan  is  added  some  Es- 
pagnole  sauce  and  mushroom  liquor,  boiled  up, 
strained,  skimmed,  finished  with  grated  nut- 
meg and  anchovy  butter,  the  fish  served  with 
some  of  the  sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished 
with  Victoria  potatoes. 

BOUCHfiE  —  A  French  word  which  means 
"mouthful;"  it  is  used  to  designate  certain 
specimens  of  cookery,  both  savory  and  sweet, 
that  are  filled  into  puff  paste  and  sponge  cake 
patty  cases,  hence,  a  Bouch^e  is  a  small  patty. 

BOUCHfeE  OF  OYSTERS— Oysters  scalded,  the 
liquor  made  into  a  sauce,  oysters  cut  into  dice, 
added  to  the  finished  sauce,  seasoned  with 
lemon  juice  and  anchovy  essence,  filled  into 
puff  paste  patty  shells,  and  served. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  CHICKEN— Breast  of  chicker 
(cooked)  cut  into  dice,  mixed  into  a  rich  veloute 
sauce,  made  hot,  filled  into  patty  shells  and 
served. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  GAME— Any  cold  cooked  game 
may  be  used,  and  if  desired  can  be  so  named 
instead  of  the  word  "game,"  the  meat  cut  in 
small  squares,  and  made  hot  in  a  sauce  approp- 
riate to  the  game  used,  filled  into  small  patty 
shells  and  served. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  FOIE-GRAS— This  is  served 
cold.  The  foie-gras  is  cut  into  small  pieces, 
put  into  patty  shells  with  limpid  aspic  jelly, 
and  served  when  set. 

BOUCHfeE  OF  SWEETBREADS— The  sweet- 
breads broiled,  cut  into  small  squares,  made 
hot  in  a  white  Italian  sauce,  the  warm  patty 
shells  filled  and  served. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  LOBSTERS— Fresh  boiled  lob- 
ster meat  cut  in  dice,  made  hot  in  a  Supreme 
sauce,  filled  into  the  patty  shells  and  served. 

BOUCHfiE  WITH  RAGOUT— The  patty  shells 
filled  with  a  mixture  of  smoked  tongue,  breast 
of  chicken,  truffles  and  mushrooms;  all  cut 
small  and  made  hot  in  a  Supreme  sauce,  cover 
put  on  and  served,  (called,  BOUCHfiES  k  la 
REINE). 

BOUCHfiE  WITH  MARROW  —  The  spinal 
marrow  of  beef  cut  in  pieces,  cooked  in  a  sauce 
Albert,  filled  into  the  patty  shells  and  served. 

BOUCHfeE  WITH  GAME  PUR£E— Tlie  patty 
shells  filled  with  a  rich  pur^e  of  any  form  of 
game,  highly  seasoned,  (called,  BOUCHfiES  k 
la  ST.  HUBERT). 

BOUCHfeE  OF  CRAYFISH  TAILS— The  meat 
from  the  tails  of  fresh  boiled  crayfish,  cut  up 
and  made  hot  in  a  cream  parsley  sauce,  filled 
into  the  patty  shells  and  served. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


BOUCHfiE  WITH  SALPICON— Cooked  poul- 
try or  game  cut  small,  made  hot  in  a  rich  sauce, 
filled  into  the  patty  shells  and  served. 

BOUCHfiE  WITH  OX  PALATES— The  patty 
shell  filled  with  a  mixture  of  small  cut  pieces 
of  braized  ox  palate  and  mushrooms,  made  hot 
in  Allemande  sauce. 

BOUCHfeE  OF  SARDINES  — The  sardines 
made  into  a  paste  with  Gruyere  cheese,  salt, 
pepper  and  chili  vinegar,  mix  with  a  few  scald- 
ed oysters  cut  small,  the  patty  shells  filled  and 
served,  garnished  with  hard  boiled  yolks  of 
eggs  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  resembling  ver- 
micelli. 

BOUCHfeE  WITH  MUSHROOMS— Slices  of 
button  mushrooms  lightly  fried  in  butter,  then 
put  into  a  rich  Madeira  sauce,  made  hot,  filled 
into  the  patty  shells,  and  the  opening  filled  with 
a  cork  made  of  a  mushroom  nicely  glazed. 

B0UCH£E  of  REEDBIRD  — The  reedbird 
boned,  stuffed,  braized  with  wine,  taken  up. 
glazed,  jointed,  put  in  the  patty  shells,  some 
Perigueux  sauce  poured  in  and  served. 

BOUCHfeE  OF  WOODCOCK— Snipe,  Larks, 
Ricebirds  and  Ortolans,  may  be  prepared  and 
served  same  as  the  preceding. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  ANCHOVIES— Coiled  anchov- 
ies in  oil,  taken  out  and  drained,  Mayonnaise 
sahce  beaten  with  stiff  aspic  jelly  and  a  dash  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  the  anchovies  dipped  into  it, 
and  filled  into  cold  patty  shells,  the  top  then 
decorated  with  a  cover  made  of  aspic  jelly,  and 
served. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  SOLE— The  sole  filleted  and 
braised,  cut  in  small  pieces,  when  cold,  put  into 
the  patty  shells,  limpid  fish  jelly  poured  in,  the 
top  decorated  with  Montpelier  butter  and 
served. 

BOUCHfeE  OF  SALMON- -Cold  cooked  salmon 
in  flakes,  mixed  with  Ravigote  sauce,  filled  into 
the  patty  shells,  the  top  decorated  with  Mayon- 
naise and  studded  with  capers. 

BOUCHfiE  OF  ORANGES— The  patty  shell 
used  for  sweet  bouchees  is  made  of  a  rich  stiff 
"lady  finger  mixture"  forced  out  of  a  pastry 
bag  in  rings  one  on  top  of  the  other  to  the  de- 
sired height,  sprinkled  with  pink  sugar,  baked 
and  glazed,  the  oranges  peeled  and  separated 
in  sections,  then  simmered  in  an  orange  syrup; 
when  done,  taken  up  and  drained,  put  into  the 
bouchees,  the  top  decorated  with  a  flavored 
water  icing(called,BOUCH£ESi  la  SEVILLE) 

BOUCHEES  OF  PLUMS— The  shell  made  as 
in  the  preceding,  the  plums  peeled,  stoned  and 
cut  in  slices,  simmered  in  syrup,  taken  up  and 
drained,  put  into  the  bouchees,  limpid  sweet 
jelly  poured  in;  when  the  jelly  is  set,  the  top 
decorated  and  served. 

BOUCHEE  of  peaches— Prepared  the  same 
as  the  preceding,  substituting  peaches  for 
plums.  Strawberries,  cherries  and  red  rasp- 
berries may  also  be  treated  this  way. 

BOUDIN — The  French  name  for  a  pudding  made 


of  meats,  game,  poultry  and  fish,  !n  the  form 
of  cakes  or  sausages. 

BOUDIN  NOIR— Or  black  pudding,  see  (blacK 
pudding). 

BOUDIN  OF  VEAL— Finely  minced  veal  and 
bacon  seasoned  with  aromatic  herbs,  then  made 
into  small  sausage  shapes,  poached  in  white 
stock,  served  with  a  sauce  Perigueux,  (called, 
BOUDIN  DE  VEAU). 

BOUDIN  OF  RABBIT— Same  as  the  preceding, 
substituting  rabbit  for  the  veal;  served  with  a 
light  game  sauce,  (called,  BOUDIN  DE  LA- 
PIN). 

BOUDIN  OF  HARE — Same  as  the  preceding, 
substituting  hare  for  rabbit,  (called,  BOUDIN 
DE  LIEVRE). 

BOUDIN  OF  FOWL— Cold  white  chicken  or 
turkey  meat  pounded  to  a  paste  with  a  season- 
ing of  nutmeg,  salt,  red  pepper,  lemon  juice 
and  herbs,  the  paste  forced  into  a  skin,  plunged 
into  boiling  white  stock  till  thoroughly  heated 
through,  taken  up,  served  cold  in  slices  alter- 
nately with  slices  of  black  pudding,  (called 
BOUDIN  BLANC). 

BOULETTES  OF  GAME— The  word  boulette 
signifies  "ball"  and  is  used  very  seldom,  except 
to  describe  a  garnish.  "Boulettes  of  potatoes" 
are  what  is  better  known  as  potatoes  Victoria. 
Boulettes  of  game  are  made  of  a  highly  sea- 
soned mince  of  cold  game,  breaded  and  fried. 

BOUILLABAISSE — A  national  soup  of  the  Latin 
race,  composed  of  pieces  of  fish  (boned  and 
skinned),  garlic,  chopped  parsley,  bay  leaves, 
tomatoes,  leeks,  onions,  lobster,  savory  herbs, 
potatoes,  olive  oil  and  saffron,  fried,  then  sim- 
mered till  done;  served  in  platefuls  with  slices 
of  toast  dried  in  the  oven. 

BROCHETTE — A  skewer  on  which  are  threaded 
small  delicate  meats,  etc.,  to  be  cooked,  and 
served  with  or  without  the  skewer;  also  used 
by  confectioners  to  thread  fruit  on  before  can- 
dying them. 

BROCHETTE  OF  OYSTERS— Oysters,  bacon 
and  sweetbreads  (optional),  the  bacon  and 
sweetbreads  cut  in  slices  same  length  as  the 
oysters,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  powdered 
thyme  and  chopped  parsley,  the  oysters  and 
sweetbreads  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  rolled 
in  fresh  grated  bread  crumbs,  threaded  alter- 
nately on  the  skewer  with  the  bacon;  when  full, 
fried  in  hot  fat,  served  with  some  heated  to- 
mato catsup,  that  is  seasoned  with  anchovy 
essence  poured  around,  and  garnished  with 
lemon  and  parsley, 

BROCHETTE  OF  LAMB  KIDNEYS  —  The 
kidneys  with  the  skin  removed  and  split  in  two 
without  quite  severing,  threaded  on  the  skewer 
flat,  quickly  broiled  for  an  instant  over  a  hot 
fire,  then  taken  off  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  ground  mint,  dipped  in  v^lout^  sauce, 
then  fresh  grated  bread  crumbs,  brushed  with 
melted  butter  and  broiled  over  a  slow  fire  till 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


done;  served  with  a  sauce  Colbert  poured 
around. 

BROCHETTE  OF  SPRING  LAMB —Circular 
steaks  of  the  leg  of  raw  lamb,  one  cutlet  of  the 
leg  making  about  three  steaks,  laid  for  an  hour 
tn  a  mixture  of  minced  shallots,  chives,  mint, 
garlic,  lemon  juice,  nutmeg,  melted  butter,  salt 
and  pepper,  then  taken  up,  rolled  in  fresh 
grated  bread  crumbs,  threaded  on  the  skewer, 
broiled  till  done  and  served  with  Colbert  sauce 
poured  around. 

BROCHETTE  OF  VEAL— Cold  cooked  veal  and 
boiled  ham  cut  into  even  sized  pieces,  the  veal 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  mar- 
joram, threaded  alternately  on  the  skewer, 
breaded,  fried,  served  with  white  Italian  sauce 
poured  around,  and  garnished  with  watercress. 

BROCHETTE  OF  DUCK  LIVERS— The  liver 
is  par-boiled,  then  prepared  and  cooked  the 
same  way  as  "chicken  livers"  following;  served 
with  Bigarrade  sauce  poured  around,  and  gar- 
nished with  water  cress  and  lemon. 

BROCHETTE  OF  CHICKEN  LIVERS— The 
livers  washed  and  dried,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  slices  of  bacon  Rightly  broiled,  then  cut 
in  pieces  same  size  as  the  livers,  the  skewer 
threaded  with  them  alternately;  when  all  on 
rolled  in  melted  butter  or  olive  oil,  then  in 
fresh  grated  bread  crumbs,  broiled,  served  on 
a  slice  of  narrow  toast  with  miitre  d'hotel  but- 
ter poured  over,  and  garnished  with  water 
cress. 

BROCHETTE  OF  GEESE  LIVERS— The  liv- 
ers boiled  in  stock  till  done,  then  cut  into  slices; 
smoked  cooked  tongue  the  tip  end  cut  in  slices 
same  size  as  the  livers;  both  dipped  in  cooling 
Perigueux  sauce;  when  cold,  threaded  alter- 
nately on  the  skewer,  rolled  in  grated  bread 
crumbs,  then  breaded  and  fried,  served  with 
Perigueux  sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished 
with  water  cress  and  lemon. 

BROCHETTE  OF  TURKEY  LIVERS  —  The 
livers  blanched,  cut  in  slices,  lightly  saut^ed 
with  finely  minced  shallots,  garlic  and  chives, 
taken  up,  drained,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  lemon  juice,  threaded  alternately  on  skewer 
with  pieces  of  half  broiled  bacon,  dipped  in 
melted  butter,  then  bread  crumbs,  beaten  eggs 
and  bread  crumbs  again,  broiled,  served  with 
Hanover  sauce  poured  around,  and  garnished 
with  watercress. 

BROCHETTE  OF  EELS— The  eels  skinned 
and  cut  into  inch  pieces,  steeped  for  an  hour 
in  equal  quantities  of  olive  oil  and  vinegar, 
with  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  thyme; 
then  placed  on  skewer  alternately  with  bacon, 
arranged  on  a  baking  pan  with  some  of  the 
marinade  poured  over  them;  roasted  for  ten 
minutes,  taken  up,  drained,  breaded,  fried  and 
served  with  tartar  sauce. 

BROCHETTE  OF  PIGS'  KIDNEYS— The  kid- 
neys par-boiled,  cut  in  slices,  seasoned  with 
■alt,   pepper  and  powdered  sage:  cold  boiled 


pickled  pork  cut  in  slices  same  size  as  the  kid- 
neys, threaded  alternately  on  skewer,  rolled  in 
olive  oil,  then  breaded  and  fried;  served  with 
Robert  sauce  containing  a  dash  of  anchovy 
essence  poured  around,  and  garnished  with  a 
small  baked  and  glazed  apple. 

BROCHETTE  OF  MUTTON  — Cutlets  from 
the  leg  or  loin,  cut  into  even  sized  pieces,  sea- 
soned with  a  mixture  of  salt,  pepper,  cinnamon 
and  powdered  savory,  threaded  on  skewer,  ar- 
ranged in  baking  pan,  moistened  with  a  thin 
tomato  sauce,  roasted  and  basted  with  it;  served 
with  tomato  sauce  poured  around,  and  gar- 
nished with  chip  potatoes. 

BROCHETTE  OF  MUSSELS  — Prepared  and 
served  the  same  way  as  the  recipe  given  for 
"brochette  of  oysters." 

BROCHETTE  OF  SWEETBREADS  —  The 
sweetbreads  soaked,  blanched,  then  boiled  till 
tender  with  vegetables  and  spices,  taken  up, 
drained,  skinned,  pressed  till  cold,  cut  in  pieces, 
then  cut  circular  with  the  largest  sized  column 
cutter;  slices  of  cold  cooked  tongue  the  same 
way;  both  dipped  in  cooling  white  Italian  sauce; 
when  cold,  rolled  in  fresh  grated  bread  crumbs, 
then  threaded  alternately  on  the  skewer;  when 
full,  breaded,  fried,  served  with  white  Italian 
sauce  poured  around. 

BROCHETTE  OF  SMELTS— A  judicious  way 
of  using  up  the  small  smelts;  the  fish  wiped, 
after  entrails  are  drawn,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs  and 
fresh  bread  crumbs,  threaded  on  the  skewer 
through  the  gills,  fried  in  hot  fat,  taken  up, 
drained;  served  with  or  without  tartar  or  to- 
mato sauce,  garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

BROCHETTE  OF  CALFS  BRAINS  —  The 
brains  soaked,  skinned,  washed,  blanched  in 
boiling  water  containing  a  little  vinegar,  taken 
up,  drained,  cut  in  even  sized  pieces;  also 
bacon  cut  the  same  size;  the  brains  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  powdered  thyme  and 
chopped  parsley,  threaded  on  the  skewer  alter- 
nately with  the  bacon,  rolled  in  melted  butter, 
then  in  bread  crumbs,  broiled,  served  with 
Ravigote  sauce,  and  garnished  with  watercress 
and  lemon. 

BROCHETTE  OF  LOBSTER  —  Cold  boiled 
lobster  meat  cut  in  pieces  and  marinaded  in  a 
mixture  of  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  Worces- 
tershire sauce  for  an  hour,  then  threaded  on 
skewer  alternately  with  the  large  head  of  a 
button  mushroom,  rolled  in  butter,  then  it 
fresh  bread  crumbs,  broiled,  served  with  mSitre 
d'hotel  butter  mixed  with  anchovy  essence 
poured  around,  and  garnished  with  parsley  and 
lemon. 

BROCHETTE  OF  RABBIT— Raw  young  rab- 
bit meat  and  cold  boiled  salt  pork  cut  in  even 
sized  pieces,  the  rabbit  saut^ed  in  butter  with 
fine  herbs,  taken  up  and  threaded  alternately 
on  the  skewer  with  the  salt  pork,  seasoned  with 
a  mixture  of  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  herbs, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK, 


Dreaded,  fried,  and  served  with  brown  Italian 
sauce  poured  around. 
BROCHETTE  OF  TURKEY— Slices  of  light 
and  dark  meat  of  cold  cooked  turkey,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  dipped  in  cool- 
ing Supreme  sauce;  when  cold,  rolled  in  bread 
crumbs,  then  breaded  and  fried;  served  with 
sauce  Supreme. 

BROCHETTE  OF  LAMB  FRIES— Prepared, 
cooked,  and  served  the  same  way  as  the  recipe 
given  for  'brochette  of  calf's  brains,"  tomato 
sauce  to  be  used  instead  of  ravigote. 

BROCHETTE  OF  SCALLOPS— The  scallops 
drained,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  chopped 
parsley,  breaded,  placed  alternately  on  skewer 
with  pieces  of  bacon  fried,  served,  with  Alle- 
mande  sauce  contaiinng  a  little  lobster  coral. 

BROCHETTE  OF  REED  BIRDS— The  birds 
picked,  drawn,  wiped,  and  trussed  with  the 
head  tucked  under  the  wing,  a  small  ball  of 
miitre  d'hotel  butter  and  the  liver  of  the  bird 
minced  and  put  inside,  threaded  alternately  on 
the  skewer  with  a  piece  of  cold  boiled  bacon, 
seasoned,  broiled,  served  on  toast  and  garnished 
with  parsley  and  lemon. 

BROCHETTE  OF  CRAYFISH  TAILS— The 
fresh  boiled  meat  of  the  crayfish  tails,  prepared 
and  served  the  same  way  as  the  recipe  given 
for  "brochette  of  lobster." 

BRINE — A  preserving  and  flavoring  mixture  of 
salt,  spices,  saltpetre  and  water — is  the  best 
thing  to  put  meats  into  that  are  just  on  the 
turn;  after  first  washing  them  and  rubbing 
them  over  with  powdered  charcoal  or  borax, 
and  again  thoroughly  washing  them.  For  mix- 
ture see  "corned  beef." 

BRIE — Name  of  a  very- rich  cream  cheese  made 
near  Paris,  France,  is  of  a  circular  form,  an 
inch  thick,  wrapped  in  parchment  paper,  put 
into  thin  wooden  boxes  and  imported  to  this 
country;  it  is,  however,  very  much,  and  fairly 
well  imitated  by  our  own  cheese  manufacturers. 

BRANDY — A  spirit  distilled  from  wines,  is  clear 
and  sparkling.  In  the  year  1878  the  vineyards 
of  the  Charente  were  devastated  by  the  phyl- 
loxera, causing  the  annual  production,  which 
averaged  170,000,000  gallons,  to  fall  in  1898  to 
only  11,000,000;  consequently,  since  1878,  only 
a  very  small  quantity  of  genuine  brandy  has 
been  shipped  to  this  country,  the  bulk  being  a 
blend  of  grain  spirit  flavored  with  brandy.  An 
oil  distilled  from  brandy  is  used  with  a  spirit 
in  producing  an  imitation  that  is  sold  as  cook- 
ing brandy. 

BRANDY  SAUCE— Water,  lemon  juice,  sugar 
and  grated  nutmeg  brought  to  the  boil,  butter 
and  flour  sizzling  in  another  sauce  pan,  the 
flavored  water  strained  into  it,  stirring  at  the 
same  time,  allowed  to  simmer  for  a  few  min- 
utes, taken  from  the  fire,  and  brandy  to  the  de- 
sired flavor  added. 

BREAD — A  combination  of  flour,  salt,  sugar, 
•rater  and  yeast,  mixed,  set  to  rise,  kneaded, 


23 

risen  again,  molded,  proved  and  baked.  The 
different  kinds  of  bread  on  the  market  is  legion, 
and  with  all  sorts  of  claims,  principally  for  the 
benefit  of  health  and  digestion,  such  as  "whole 
meal,"  "gluten,"  "aerated,"  "steamed,"  "die- 
titic,"  "diabetic,"  "buttermilk,"  "dyspepsia," 
etc.,  which  argument  may  be  based  on  sound 
doctrine  or  not,  at  least,  doctors,  chemists  and 
anylists,  are  continually  arguing  the  pro.  and 
con.  of  the  different  claimants  as  the  following 
quotation  will  show  for  itself. 

WHITE  VERSUS  BROWN  BREAD— There 
appeared  in  the  St.  Bartholomew's  Hospital 
report  a  very  interesting  communication  on  the 
relative  digestibility  of  white  and  brown  bread 
by  Drs.  Lauder,  Brunton  and  Tunnicliffe. 
While  the  authors  admit  that,  regarded  from  a 
purely  chemical  point  of  view,  the  nutritive 
value  of  brown  bread  is  greater  than  white, 
they  maintain  that  this  is  not  so  when  consid- 
ered from  the  physiological  side.  The  authors 
point  out  that  it  is  absurd  to  take  the  mere 
chemical  composition  as  an  index  of  the  value 
of  food  stuff,  as  a  stick  of  charcoal,  the  atmos- 
pheric air,  a  little  water,  some  sea  salt,  contain 
all  the  elements  of  a  typical  diet.  Hence,  the 
greatest  importance  attaches  not  only  to  the 
composition,  but  to  the  ways  in  which  the  var- 
ious constituents  are  combined  so  that  they 
can  be  readily  and  easily  assimilated.  The 
conclusion  that  the  authors  come  to  is  mainly 
that,  although  brown  bread,  both  on  account 
of  its  large  percentage  of  mineral  matters  and 
fat  forming  constituents,  is  chemically  superior 
to  white  bread,  yet  these  constituents  do  not  so 
readily  pass  into  the  blood  as  in  the  case  of 
white  bread,  and  that,  weight  for  weight,  white 
bread  is  more  nutritious  than  brown.  In  spec- 
ial cases  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  mineral 
matter,  and  especially  in  cases  of  growing 
children,  when  large  quantities  of  these  are 
required  for  production  of  bone  and  tissue, 
brown  bread  may  be  useful,  but  even  in  these 
cases,  if  these  mineral  salts,  and  especially 
salts  of  calcium,  are  supplied  by  other  means, 
white  bread  is  preferable  to  brown. 

BRAINS — Of  animals  are  esteemed  by  the  cook 
in  producing  delicate  entries,  and  are  remuner- 
ative to  the  proprietor  on  account  of  their  small 
cost.  They  must,  before  cooking,  be  thor- 
oughly cleansed  of  the  skin  and  blood  that 
covers  them;  they  are  easily  digested,  and  fairly 
nutritious. 

SCRAMBLED  BRAINS— Pigs,  sheep,  calf  or 
beef  brains,  as  there  is  scarcely  any  difference 
in  the  flavor,  being  all  composed  of  the  same 
material,  are  cleansed,  par-boiled  in  salted 
water  with  a  dash  of  vinegar,  taken  up,  drained, 
cut  into  small  pieces,  added  to  an  equal  volume 
of  beaten  eggs,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  poured  into  a  pan  containing  butter, 
and  scrambled  around  till  set.  Served  on  toast 
(optional),  garnished  with  croutons  and  parsley. 


THE  CULIN/HY  HANDBOOK. 


BRAIN  FORCEMEAT  —  Cold  boiled  brains 
minced,  then  pounded  to  a  paste  with  flour, 
egg  yolks;  seasoned  with  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper 
and  chopped  parsley. 

BRAIN  CROQUETTES  WITH  PEAS— The 
croquettes  formed  in  cone  shapes  of  "brain 
forcemeat"  breaded,  fried,  served  with  a  frill 
stuck  into  the  croquette,  and  garnished  with 
green  peas  at  the  ends  of  the  dish,  with  Alle- 
mande  sauce  at  side 

BRAIN  CUTLETS,  VILLEROI  SAUCE— The 
cutlets  size  and  shape  of  small  lamb  chops 
made  of  "brain  forcemeat"  with  a  piece  of 
macaroni  to  represent  the  bone,  breaded,  fried; 
served  with  Villeroi  sauce  poured  around. 

BRAIN  CAKES  WITH  BACON— The  cakes 
size  and  shajje  of  small  codfish  cakes,  made  of 
"brain  forcemeat"  breaded,  fried,  served  with 
a  slice  of  broiled  bacon  and  B^hamel  sauce 
poured  around. 

ROAST  BRAINS  WITH  FORCEMEAT  BALLS 
—  Calf's  brains  par-boiled  and  trimmed,  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepp)er,  dipped  in  melted 
butter,  then  rolled  in  flour,  quickly  roasted  and 
basted  with  butter;  served  garnished  with  fried 
balls  of  "brain  forcemeat"  and  fines  herbes 
sauce  poured  around. 

SCALLOPED  BRAINS  IN  SHELL  —  Cold 
cooked  brains  in  slices,  mixed  with  a  white 
Italian  sauce,  filled  into  scallop  shells,  sprinkled 
with  grated  cheese  and  bread  crumbs,  baked, 
served  in  the  shells  (called,  CERVEAUX  EN 
COQUILLE  AU   GRATIN). 

BRAINS  AND  MUSHROOMS  IN  CASES— 
Cold  cooked  brains  and  button  mushrooms  cut 
in  neat  pieces,  tossed  in  butter  over  a  quick 
fire  to  color  lightly,  then  moistened  with  Su- 
preme sauce;  served  in  fancy  paper  cases. 

CALF'S  BRAINS  AND  TONGUE,  MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE— The  brains  par-boiled  and 
trimmed,  the  tongues  boiled,  skinned,  trimmed 
and  cut  lengthwise,  dipped  in  cooling  Piquante 
sauce;  when  cold,  both  breaded  and  fried; 
served  with  mushroom  sauce. 

FRIED  BRAINS  WITH  BROWN  BUTTER— 
The  brains  blanched  and  trimmed,  seasoned, 
brushed  with  butter,  rolled  in  flour,  dipped  in 
beaten  eggs,  then  fried;  served  with  brown 
butter  poured  over  them,  made  by  melting 
butter  over  a  quick  fire  till  it  froths  and  browns, 
then  adding  to  it  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  some 
finely  chopped  parsley  (called,  CERVEAUX 
AU  BEURRE  NOIR). 

FRIED  BRAINS  BREADED,  TARTAR 
SAUCE — The  brains  blanched,  trimmed,  and 
masked  with  Tartar  sauce,  then  breaded  and 
fried;  served  with  Tartar  sauce  at  the  ends  of 
the  dish,  and  Parisienne  potatoes  down  the 
sides. 

CALF'S  BRAINS,  SAUCE  VINAIGRETTE— 
The  brains  blanched,  trimmed,  and  boiled  till 
done  in  white  stock,  served  with  Vinaigrette 


sauce,  and  garnished  with  parsley. 

BRAISED  BRAINS  WITH  STUFFED  TO- 
MATOES—The  brains  blanched,  trimmed,  and 
arranged  in  a  sautoir  with  carrot,  onion,  pars- 
ley, bay  leaves  and  cloves,  moistened  with 
white  stock,  covered  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  braised  till  done,  taken  up,  the  liquor 
skimmed  and  strained  into  a  Velout^  sauce,  re 
duced,  the  brains  served  with  some  of  the  sauce 
poured  over  them,  and  garnished  with  small 
stuffed  tomatoes. 

BRAISED  BRAINS,  SAUCE  REMOULADE— 
The  brains  prepared  and  cooked  the  same  way 
as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  with  the  addition  of 
a  little  white  wine  to  the  moistening  stock; 
when  done,  the  braise  skimmed,  strained  and 
reduced  to  a  glaze,  then  mixed  into  a  hot  Re- 
moulade  sauce;  served  with  the  sauce  poured 
over  the  brains,  and  garnished  with  fancy 
croutons. 

BRAISED  BRAINS  WITH  MUSHROOMS— 
The  brains  blanched,  trimmed,  and  arranged 
in  a  sautoir  with  slices  of  bacon,  vegetables  and 
spices,  moistened  with  white  stock  and  juice  of 
a  lemon,  covered  with  thin  slices  of  bacon, 
braised  till  done,  taken  up,  the  bacon  cut  in 
pieces,  the  braise  reduced  to  a  glaze,  and 
strained  over  some  button  mushrooms  and 
small  glazed  onions,  the  brains  sprinkled  with 
fried  bread  crumbs,  and  garnished  with  the 
bacon,  mushrooms  and  onions  alternately. 

BRAINS  IN  SAUCE  POULETTE  WITH  RICE 
— The  brains  blanched,  trimmed  and  simmered 
in  poulette  sauce,  served  with  the  sauce  poured 
over  them  and  garnished  with  small  timbales 
of  rice,  with  a  small  sprig  of  parsley  stuck  in 
them. 

BRAINS  WITH  SORREL,  SAUCE  RAVIGOTE 
— The  brains  blanched,  trimmed  and  simmered 
till  tender  in  white  stock  with  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Served  on  a  bed  of  puree  of  sorrel, 
the  brains  masked  with  Ravigote  sauce. 

CREAMED  BRAINS  WITH  KIDNEY  BEANS 
— The  brains  blanched,  trimmed  and  simmered 
in  cream  sauce  till  done;  served  masked  with 
the  sauce  and  garnished  with  kidney  beans 
(flageolets)  that  have  been  sauteed  in  butter. 

CROUSTADES  OF  BRAINS  WITH  ARTI- 
CHOKES— The  brains  prepared  and  cooked 
the  same  way  as  given  for  "braised  brains  with 
stuffed  tomatoes";  when  done,  the  brains  cut 
in  slices,  mixed  with  the  v^lout^  sauce,  filled 
into  paste  croustades;  served  garnished  with 
artichoke  bottoms  spread  with  "brain  force- 
meat "  and  filled  with  small  pieces  of  glazed 
calf's  tongue. 

BROCHETTE  OF  CALF'S  BRAINS— See 
brochette  dishes. 

BRAINS  WITH  RICE,  TURKISH  STYLE— 
Cold  cooked  brains  worked  into  a  creamy  paste 
with  cream,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon 
juice  and  nutmeg;  the  rice  boiled  in  white  stock 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


w:thsalt,  batter,  pepper  and  cinnamon;  served, 
the  rice  in  small  molds,  turned  out  onto  the 
dish,  and  masked  over  with  brains,  sprinkled 
with  finely  chopped  parsley  or  chervil. 

BRAIN  PATTIES  OR  VOL-AU-VENTS— 
Cold  cooked  brains  cut  in  small  dice  with 
mushrooms,  made  hot  in  Supreme  sauce,  filled 
into  patty  shells,  cover  placed  on  and  served. 

SAVORY  OMELET  OF  CALF'S  BRAINS— 
The  brains  prepared  as  in  the  preceding,  the 
omelet  mixture  made  of  beaten  eggs,  finely  cut 
chives,  parsley,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  the 
omelet  formed,  enclosing  some  of  the  mixture; 
served  with  more  of  the  brains  in  sauce  poured 
around. 

CALF'S  BRAINS,  PARSLEY  SAUCE— The 
brains  blanched,  trimmed,  and  boiled  till  done 
in  white  stock;  served  on  a  slice  of  toast,  pars- 
ley sauce  poured  over  the  brains  and  garnished 
with  Hollandaise  potatoes. 

BRAIN  KROMESKIES,  MADERIA  SAUCE— 
Slices  of  cold  cooked  brains  dipped  in  glaze, 
encircled  with  a  very  thin  strip  of  cold  boiled 
bacon,  pinned  with  a  toothpick,  dipped  in  bat- 
ter and  fried,  the  toothpick  removed;  served 
with  madeira  sauce  poured  around. 

BROILED  BRAINS  WITH  PARSLEY  BUT- 
TER—The  brains  blanched,  trimmed  and  cut 
in  slices,  seasoned,  broiled;  served  on  toast 
with  Maitre  D' Hotel  butter  poured  over  them 
and  garnished  with  Julienne  potatoes. 

BRAISE  AND  BRAISING— A  term  applied  to 
foods  that  are  cooked  by  a  top  and  bottom  heat. 
The  pot  or  braiser  has  a  cover  that  fits  tightly 
and  a  receptacle  to  hold  lighted  charcoal  or 
coke,  so  that  the  heat  descends  on  top  of  the 
foods.  The  general  way  of  the  average  estab- 
lishment, however,  who,  as  a  rule,  are  not  sup- 
plied with  a  braiser,  is  to  take  a  shallow  sauce- 
pan or  saiitoir,  into  which  is  placed  the  foods, 
together  with  onion,  carrot,  parsley,  bay  leaves 
and  whole  cloves  (and  according  to  the  food, 
with  other  accessories,  but  the  five  mentioned 
spices  and  vegetables  are  always  included  in  a 
braise)  and  moistened  with  stock  or  sauces,  as 
the  recipe  may  require;  the  cover  of  the  saiitoir 
is  then  put  on  and  placed  in  the  oven,  so  that 
it  gives  an  even  heat,  top,  bottom  and  sides. 
When  the  foods  are  cooked  to  requirement  they 
are  taken  up  and  the  remaining  liquor  is  called 
BRAISE.  Braising,  besides  imparting  delicate 
flavors  to  the  foods  thus  cooked,  is  also  an  ex- 
ceptional good  way  of  making  tough  meats 
tender,  as  the  toughest  parts  of  beef  can  be 
made  into  fine  entrees  by  braising  them.  See 
braised  dishes  under  heading  of  "  BEEF." 

BRUNOISE — Name  given  to  a  consomm^  with 
small  cut  vegetables.      See  "consomme." 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS- -Called  (CHOUX  DE 
BRUXELLES)  are  small  sprouts  that  giowon 
the  stalks  of  cabbages.  They  are  very  green 
and  about  the  size  of  large  olives  when  trimmed. 
They   make  an    excellent    accompaniment   to 


boiled  beef  and  form  a  part  of  many  garnitures. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  BOILED— As  a  veg- 
etable, trimmed,  thoroughly  washed,  thrown 
into  boiling  water  containing  salt  and  a  small 
piece  of  common  washing  soda,  boiled  tifl  ten- 
der with  the  saucepan  lid  OFF  about  fifteen 
minutes,  then  turned  into  a  colander,  drained, 
tossed  with  a  little  melted  butter  and  served. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  SAUTfiES— Prepared, 
boiled  and  drained  as  in  the  preceding,  then 
placed  in  a  saiitoir  with  butter  and  lightly 
fried,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  served 
either  as  a  garnish  or  vegetable. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  WITH  PARSLEY 
BUTTER — Same  as  the  preceding,  but  served 
with  MSitre  D'Hotel  butter  poured  over  them. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  IN  CREAM— Prepared 
and  cooked  the  same  as  for  "boiled"  above, 
then  reheated  in  a  good  reduced  cream  (not 
cream  sauce);  served  as  a  vegetable. 

OMELET  WITH  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS— 
The  above  sprouts  in  cream,  enclosed  in  a 
savory  omelet;  served  garnished  with  some  of 
the  sprouts  around  the  omelet  and  the  cream 
poured  over  them. 

PUR^E  OF  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  — The 
sprouts  prepared  as  for  ' '  brussels  sprouts 
sautees";  after  saut^eing  they  are  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve,  mixed  with  egg  yolks  and 
butter,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  used  as 
a  garnish  or  in  a  soup;  if  in  soup,  as  follows: 
the  stock  of  good  veal  or  chicken,  seasoned 
with  salt  pork  and  vegetables,  thickened  lightly 
with  roux,  strained,  the  pur^e  then  worked  into 
it.     Served  with  small  toast. 

BUCK — The  male  deer.  For  dishes  of  Buck  see 
"  venison." 

BUCKWHEAT — A  meal  ground  from  the  seeds 
of    buckwheat,    principally   used    in    culinary 
forms  for  making  batter  cakes.     For  recipes 
see  heading  of  "batter." 

BUISSON — A  form  resembling  a  bush;  may  be 
made  by  taking  two  circular  pieces  of  wood 
one-half  the  diameter  of  the  other,  used  for  top 
and  bottom,  then  nailing  strips  of  laths  *h*»  de- 
sired height,  about  half  an  inch  apart,  screwing 
small  hooks  into  the  laths,  the  spaces  between 
filled  up  with  bunches  of  parsley  and  boiled 
crayfish  or  lobsters  hanging  by  the  tails  from 
the  hooks. 

BUTTER — Takes  a  very  prominent  part  in  cul- 
inary matters,  forms  some  special  butters  used 
for  garnishing  and  scarcely  enters  at  all  into 
what  are  now  known  as 

BUTTER  CAKES— Composed  of  ten  pouuGs  cf 
flour,  one  ounce  of  soda,  one  ounce  of  salt 
mixed  together  dry,  then  moistened  with  three 
egg  yolks,  two  ounces  of  melted  butter  and  two 
quarts  of  buttermilk;  this  is  mixed  and  well 
broken,  then  is  added  three  quarts  of  butter- 
milk and  one  quart  of  sweet  milk,  this  brings 
it  to  the  consistency  of  biscuit  dough;  spread 
out  on  table,  let  rest  half  an  hour,  then  rolled 


26 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Ol^t,  let  rest  another  half  hour;  again  rolled  out, 
cut  out  with  biscuit  cutter,  allowed  to  raise  or 
proof  and  baked  on  a  griddle. 

ANCHOVY  BUTTER— Two  parts  of  butter  to 
one  part  of  anchovy  essence,  thoroughly  mixed 
with  a  little  grated  Parmesan  cheese  and  seas- 
oned with  nutmeg,  red  pepper  and  a  dash  of 
lemon  juice. 

CRAYFISH  BUTTER  —  Crayfish  shells  and 
claws  slowly  dried  in  the  oven  with  a  little 
lobster  coral,  pounded  to  a  paste,  then  put  with 


adulterated  with  wheat,  pea,  potato  flours, 
chalk,  potato  starch,  and  variously  colored  with 
yellow  chrome,  carrot  juice,  saffron,  alkanet, 
marigold  flowers  and  celandine  juice. 

BUTTERINE  OR  MARGARINE— Is  a  prepara- 
tion of  animal  fats,  made  by  working  the  fats 
at  the  natural  heat  of  the  animal,  then  pressing 
it  by  hydraulic  pressure,  the  oil  thus  obtamed 
is  then  churned  with  diluted  milk  or  water. 

BUTTER  BALL  DUCK— A  small  wild  duck  of 
American   origin.       For  receipes  see  "duck." 


butter  and  simmered  for  a  few  minutes,  rubbed    CABBAGE— As  sold  in  our  markets  are  of  three 


through  a  fine  sieve  into  cold  water,  then  gath- 
ered for  use. 

LOBSTER  BUTTER— The  head  and  coral  of 
boiled  lobster  with  its  equal  weight  of  butter 
pounded  to  a  paste  with  a  dash  of  anchovy 
essence  and  a  little  dry  mustard,  then  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve;  gathered  for  use. 

MONTPELIER  BUTTER  — Blanched  water- 
cress, chervil,  tarragon  and  parsley,  with  hard 
boiled  egg  yolks,  a  few  anchovies,  gherkins, 
capers  and  a  clove  of  garlic  are  pounded  to  a 
paste  with  their  equal  weight  ef  butter,  a  little 
tarragon  vinegar  and  lemon  juice;  when 
smooth,  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve  and  gath- 
ered for  use. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  BUTTER— To  each  cup 
of  melted  butter  is  added  a  large  spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  juice  of  two  lemons,  seasoned 
with  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg. 

PEPPER  BUTTER— Three  medium  sized  green 
peppers  pounded  to  a  paste  with  one  pound  of 
butter,  then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
gathered  for  use. 

RAVIGOTE  BUTTER— Blanched  chives,  pars- 
ley, tarragon  and  shallots,  pounded  to  a  paste 
with  butter,  lemon  juice  and  a  dash  of  anchovy 
essence,  then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve  and 
gathered  for  use. 

GARLIC  BUTTER— A  few  cloves  of  garlic  are 
pounded  to  a  paste  with  olive  oil  and  butter; 
when  smooth,  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve; 
gathered  for  use. 

HORSERADISH  BUTTER  — Four  ounces  of 
fine  grated  horseradish  to  each  pound  of  butter 
pounded  to  a  paste,  then  rubbed  through  a 
sieve  and  gathered  for  use.  Many  people  like 
this  on  broiled  steaks  instead  of  Mditre  D'Hotel 
butter. 

SHRIMP  BUTTER— Equal  weight  of  shrimp 
meat  (canned  or  fresh),  pounded  to  a  paste  with 
butter,  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  gath- 
ered for  use. 

DRAWN  BUTTER  — Half  a  pound  of  clear 
melted  butter,  put  on  fire  in  a  saucepan  with 
two  ounces  of  flour,  mixed  together,  pint  of 
boiling  water  stirred  into  it,  simmered  for  a 
minute,  then  ready  for  use. 

BUTTER  ADULTERATIONS  —  Although  on 
account  of  the  strict  pure  food  laws  are  rare, 
still  country  butter  as  is  often  to  be  purchased 
by  the  steward  na  th<>  open  market  is  someti  mes 


colors,  white,  green  and  red;  appreciated  by 
the  average  guest  in  any  of  the  following  forms: 

BOILED  CABBAGE— If  young  require  about 
fifteen  minutes,  if  old  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
are  required  for  boiling.  They  should  be  cut 
in  quarters,  the  stalks  removed,  and  then  the 
leaves  be  separated.  It  is  quite  a  common 
thmg  for  the  cooks  to  boil  them  simply  in 
quarters  without  separating  the  leaves;  not 
only  is  this  a  dirty  way,  but  seldom  is  the  inner 
part  done  till  the  outer  leaves  are  cooked  too 
much  and  rendered  tasteless.  After  the  leaves 
are  separated  they  should  be  soaked  in  cold 
water  to  which  is  added  salt;  if  this  precaution 
is  neglected  slugs  and  various  small  insects  may 
be  retained  in  the  leaves.  When  thoroughly 
washed  put  to  boil  in  boiling  salted  water  with 
a  small  piece  of  common  washing  soda;  cook 
them  with  the  saucepan  lid  OFF.  As  the  smell 
of  boiling  cabbage  often  reaches  the  guests' 
rooms  over  the  kitchen,  a  piece  of  stale  bread 
crust  or  charcoal  tied  in  a  piece  of  muslin 
boiled  with  the  cabbage,  will  be  found  to  obvi- 
ate the  smell.  When  done  they  should  be 
turned  into  a  colander  and  the  water  pressed 
cut,  then  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  but- 
ter. The  too  common  way  of  sending  cabbage 
to  the  table  floating  in  the  water  it  was  boiled 
in  cannot  be  condemned  too  strongly. 

BAKED  CABBAGE  WITH  HAM  —  Fresh 
boiled  cabbage  with  the  water  pressed  out, 
mixed  with  drawn  butter,  placed  in  a  baking 
pan,  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese  and  ham, 
baked,  served  with  a  slice  of  roast  ham  on  top. 

STEWED  CABBAGE— Fresh  boiled  and  pressed 
cabbage  cut  fine,  then  saut^ed  in  butter,  sur- 
plus butter  poured  off,  covered  with  cream 
sauce,  simmered  for  a  few  mmutes  and  served. 

CREAMED  CABBAGE— Coarsely  shred  cab- 
bage, thoroughly  washed,  boiled,  drained,  then 
mixed  with  cream  sauce. 

STUFFED  CABBAGE  — Whole  cabbage  par- 
boiled, the  heart  removed,  its  place  filled  with 
a  stuffing  of  finely  chopped  cooked  meat  and 
sausage  meat  mixed  together,  the  aperture 
covered  with  a  slice  of  salt  pork,  tied,  placed 
in  a  saucepan  with  white  stock  and  a  little 
sherry  wine,  cover  put  on,  and  simmered  till 
done  ;  served  with  a  good  brown  gravy  poured 
around. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


27 


BRAISED  CABBAGE — Cabbage  cut  in  halves, 
thoroughly  picked  over  and  washed,  boiled  not 
quite  done,  taken  up  and  drained,  the  stalk 
then  removed  and  the  two  halves  put  together 
and  tied,  resembling  the  whole  cabbage,  braised 
with  white  stock  for  an  hour,  then   taken  up. 


with  fried  or  boiled  sausages  on  top,  and  a 
brown  gravy  poured  around. 
COLE  SLAW— Finely  shred  cabbage  mixed  with 
pepper,  salt,  sugar,  oil  and  vinegar ;  also  the 
plain  shred  cabbage  served  as  an  adjunct  to 
fried  or  stewed  oysters. 


drained  ;  served  as  a  vegetable  or  cut  in  shapes    CABBAGE  SALAD — Finely  shred  cabbage,  some 


to  be  used  as  a  garniture. 

FRIED  CABBAGE  WITH  BACON  — Fresh 
boiled,  pressed,  and  seasoned  cabbage  cut  fine, 
fried  in  bacon  fat ;  served  with  a  slice  of  boiled 
bacon  on  top. 

CABBAGE  TIMBALES— Cabbage  prepared  and 
cooked  the  same  as  for  "boiled  cabbage ";  then 
well  pressed,  finely  chopped  and  mixed  with 
lightly  fried  minced  onion,  put  in  a  safltoirwith 
a  little  butter  and  simmered  with  the  lid  on  for 
fifteen  minutes,  then  allowed  to  cool  ;  while 
cooling,  equal  parts  of  sausage  meat  and  fresh 
bread  crumbs  with  a  few  beaten  eggs  and 
chopped  parsley  are  thoroughly  mixed  together; 
the  timbale  molds  are  then  buttered,  a  piece  of 
bacon  put  in,  the  sides  lined  with  blanched 
cabbage  leaves,  the  cabbage  and  stufiQng  then 
filled  in  the  molds  in  alternate  layers  till  full, 
another  piece  of  bacon  put  on  the  top,  the  tim- 
bales  then  baked  in  a  moderate  oven  for  about 
an  hour,  the  bacon  removed,  cabbage  turned 
out  and  the  inner  piece  of  bacon  removed  ; 
served  with  a  good  brown  gravy  poured  over 
and  around. 

BAKED  CABBAGE  WITH  CHEESE— Fresh 
boiled  and  pressed  cabbage  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper  and  butter,  arranged  in  layers  in  baking 
pan,  each  layer  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese, 
top  layer  with  grated  cheese  and  bread  crumbs 
mixed,  sprinkled  with  butter,  baked  and  served 
(called  Cabbage  an  Gratin). 

PAUPIETTES  OF  CABBAGE— Blanched  cab- 
bage leaves,  taken  about  four  thick,  the  outer 
one  being  the  largest,  the  inner  one  spread  with 
sausage  meat  mixed  with  boiled  rice,  shallots, 
chopped  parsley  and  chives,  then  rolled  up  and 
tied,  arranged  in  a  sailtoir  till  full,  little  broth 
added,  cover  put  on  and  simmered  till  done ; 
served  with  brown  gravy  or  as  a  garniture. 


bacon  cut  in  dice  and  fried  ;  while  still  in  the 
pan,  equal  parts  of  water  and  vinegar,  with  a 
seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  added  to  it,  boiled, 
cooled,  then  mixed  with  the  cabbage. 

RED  CABBAGE  SALAD— The  cabbage  finely 
washed,  drained,  then  covered  with  vinegar, 
dredged  with  salt  and  pepper  and  steeped  for  a 
few  hours,  then  drained  and  mixed  with  French 
dressing ;  served  garnished  with  shred  celery 
in  mayonnaise. 

HOT  SLAW  — Finely  shred  cabbage  washed 
and  drained,  put  in  saucepan  with  butter, 
lid  put  on  and  simmered  till  nearly  done, 
water,  vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  sugar 
then  added,  and  finish  cooking  till  tender ; 
finished  by  working  in  some  beaten  eggs  till 
smooth,  yellow  and  creamy. 

PICKLED  CABBAGE— Finely  shred  red  cabbage 
thoroughly  dredged  with  salt  and  placed  in  large 
colander  or  sieve  to  drain  for  several  hours, 
then  washed,  drained,  and  packed  in  jars  with 
a  few  whole  peppers,  bay  leaves  and  a  little 
thyme,  the  jar  then  filled  up  with  white  wine 
vinegar  containing  beet  juice  (or  a  boiled  beet 
may  be  put  in  with  the  cabbage),  cover  of  jar 
put  on,  kept  in  a  cold  place  ;  ready  for  use  in 
about  a  month. 

PICKLED  CABBAGE— Two  gallons  of  finely 
chopped  cabbage,  one  pound  of  chopped  onions, 
half  pound  each  of  red  and  green  peppers  cut 
in  shreds,  mixed  together,  with  one  pound  of 
salt,  placed  in  a  crock  and  stood  over  night; 
then  taken  out,  put  in  colander  and  well  pres- 
sed; then  put  in  crock  in  layers,  and  on  each 
layer  sprinkle  mustard  seeds  and  a  few  cloves 
till  all  in,  covered  with  cider  vinegar;  when 
vinegar  sinks,  the  next  day,  fill  it  up  so  that 
the  cabbage  is  covered;  ready  for  use  in  two 
days. 


BOILED  CABBAGE,  GERMAN  STYLE— The    SAUERKRAUT— This   is   finely  shred  cabbage 


cabbage  boiled  and  pressed,  chopped,  then 
mixed  with  small  pieces  of  boiled  bacon  and 
Allemande  sauce. 

CABBAGE  WITH  EGGS  — Fresh  boiled  and 
pressed  cabbage  finely  chopped,  placed  in  a 
sailtoir  with  a  little  drawn  butter  and  vinegar, 
stirred  over  a  quick  fire  for  a  few  minutes  till 
smooth  and  creamy;  served  garnished  with 
quartered  hard  boiled  eggs  and  sprinkled  with 
finely  chopped  eggs. 

STEWED  RED  CABBAGE  WITH  SAUSAGES 
— Shred  the  cabbage  as  for  cold  slaw,  wash, 
drain,  place  it  in  a  saucepan  with  butter  and 
simmer  it  with  the  lid  on  for  half  an  hour,  then 
put  in  some  slices  of  salt  pork  and  white  stock 


packed  in  barrels  in  layers  with  salt  and  allowed 
to  sour.  It  is  a  nasty  smelling  troublesome 
thing  to  attend  to  in  hotel  life,  and  can  really 
be  bought  better  and  cheaper  than  by  home 
preparation.  When  to  be  cooked,  it  is  thor- 
oughly washed  and  slowly  boiled  for  two  or 
three  hours  with  carrot,  onion  stuck  with  clove? 
and  a  piece  of  ham  or  bacon.  If  to  be  served 
with  frankfurters,  or  sausages,  they  are  boiled 
in  it. 
CAFfi— Pronounced  KAFFAY.  The  name  used 
to  signify  a  restaurant  or  place  where  coflee  is 
to  be  obtained.  It  is  the  French  word  for 
coffee,  often  seen  on  the  bill  of  fare  as  '  'caf 6 
noir"  which  means  black  coffee  or  strong  coffee. 


and  cook  till  done ;  take  up  and  drain  ;  serve    CASES— Are  fanciful  shaped  pieces    of    paper 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


made  to  aoia  and  serve  delicate  foods;  also 
made  by  the  cook  of  rice,  potatoes,  turnips, 
etc. ;  most  often  seen  on  the  bill  of  fare  as  EN 
CAISSE. 

CAILLES — French  name  for  "quails;"  when 
spoken  the  two  ELLS  are  silent. 

CALIPEE  AND  CALIPASH— The  first  is  the 
name  given  to  the  meat  attached  to  the  lower, 
and  the  last  to  the  meat  attached  to  upper  shells 
of  a  turtle. 

CALF — Is  the  name  given  to  parts  of  the  young 
of  the  cow  (in  a  culinary  way)  such  as  the  head, 
feet,  liver,  tail,  heart,  brains,  kidneys  and 
sweetbreads;  the  other  parts  or  meat  is  called 
veal,  for  recipes  of  which  see  "Veal". 

CALF'S  HEAD— The  head  as  purchased  should 
be  left  entire  with  simply  the  hair  cleaned  off, 
and,  if  in  the  country  towns  or  resorts,  the  cook 
has  to  clean  it  himself,  plunge  it  into  boiling 
water  containing  common  washing  soda,  let  it 
remain  for  a  few  minutes,  then  scrape  it  per- 
fectly clean  with  a  fish  scaler  or  curry-comb, 
then  singe  it  like  poultry;  the  head  is  then  split 
in  halves,  the  brains  removed,  washed,  put  to 
boil  in  cold  water  with  salt  and  vegetables, 
scum  removed  as  it  rises,  simmered  till  tender, 
taken  up  and  put  into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and 
all  bones  removed  which  come  away  easily; 
then  skin  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  and  put  the 
head  and  tongue  between  two  boards  with  a 
weight  on  top,  and  press  till  cold.  The  stock 
which  the  head  was  boiled  in  is  good  to  use  for 
soups  and  white  sauces.  The  pressed  meat  will 
be  called  "calf's  head  meat"  for  the  following 
recipes: 
CALF'S  HEAD  BAKED  WITH  CHIPOLATA 
GARNISH — Calf's  head  meat  rut  in  portions, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  pow- 
dered thyme, arranged  in  baking  pan  with  smaU 
onions,  mushrooms,  small  veal  sausages,  pieces 
of  ham  and  chicken,  blanched  and  peeled  chest- 
nuts, and  small  balls  of  carrots  and  turnips,  the 
whole  covered  with  a  rich  brown  sauce,  baked 
till  the  garnish  is  done  and  the  head  glazy; 
served  with  a  little  of  the  sauce  poured  over 
and  surrounded  with  the  garnish. 

CALF'S  HEAD  BAKED.  ENGLISH  STYLE— 
Calf's  head  meat  cut  in  slices,  arranged  in  bak- 
ing pan  with  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  nut- 
meg, an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  covered  with 
a  white  sauce  made  from  the  stock  the  head 
was  boiled  in,  baked  for  half  an  hour;  served 
with  some  of  the  sauce  poured  over,  sprinkled 
with  parsley  and  garnished  with  quenelles  of 
brain  forcemeat  and  quartered  eggs. 

HALF'S  HEAD  BAKED,  GERMAN  STYLE— 
Calf's  head  meat  cut  in  portion  pieces, seasoned, 
arranged  in  pan  with  mushrooms,  pieces  of 
sweetbreads,  and  the  tongue  cut  in  thin  slices, 
covered  with  a  sauce  Bourgignotte  and  a  sprink- 
ling of  Parmesan  cheese,  baked  half  an  hour; 
served  with  some  of  the  sauce  poured  over, 
decorated  with  the  slices  of  tongue,  sprinkled 


with  minced  truflBe  peelings  and  parsley,  gar- 
nished with  saut^ed  oysters  and  the  mushrooms. 

BAKED  CALF'S  HEAD,  SAUCE  MAINTE- 
NON — Calf's  head  meat  cut  in  slices,  dipped 
in  D'Uxelles  sauce,  then  in  cracker  crumbs, 
then  breaded  and  arranged  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  brushed  over  with  butter,  baked  till  brown, 
served  with  a  Maintenon  sauce  poured  v./ver. 
"See  sauces." 

CALF'S  HEAD  WITH  BACON  AND  PARS- 
LEY SAUCE— Calf's  head  meat  cut  in  slices 
and  made  hot  in  velout^  sauce  containing 
chopped  parsley;  served  with  some  of  the  sauce 
poured  over,  and  garnished  with  two  thin  slices 
of  boiled  bacon  or  pork. 

CALF'S  HEAD  AND  TONGUE,  PIQUANTE 
SAUCE — Slices  of  calf's  head  meat  made  hot 
in  piquante  sauce;  served  with  some  of  the 
sauce  poured  over,  decorated  with  scallops  of 
the  tongue,  and  garnished  with  pieces  of  the 
brain  breaded  and  fried. 

CALF'S  HEAD  WITH  FINANCIERE  RA- 
GOUT— Slices  of  calf's  head  meat  arranged  in 
a  safltoir  with  carrot,  onion,  parsley,  bay  leaves 
and  cloves,  moistened  with  consomm6  and 
sherry  wine,  quickly  braised  for  an  hour,  meat 
taken  up,  the  braise  strained,  skimmed  and  re- 
duced to  a  glaze,  then  strained  over  the  meat; 
served  with  a  fancy  croflton  at  ends  of  the  dish, 
and  garnished  with  cocks-combs  and  kernels, 
pieces  of  sweetbreads,  mushrooms  and  small 
quenelles  made  hot  in  Madeira  sauce. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  SAUCE  ITALIENNE— Calf's 
head  meat  in  slices,  made  hot  in  brown  Italian 
sauce;  served  with  the  sauce  poured  over,  and 
garnished  with  fancy  potatoes. 

CALF'S  HEAD  AND  BRAINS.  MUSHROOM 
SAUCE— Slices  of  calf's  head  meat  made  hot 
in  mushroom  sauce;  served  with  a  slice  of 
boiled  brains  on  top,  the  brains  decorated  with 
slices  of  green  pickles,  garnished  with  button 
mushrooms,  and  sauce  poured  around. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  TURTLE  STYLE— Calf's  head 
meat  cut  in  squares,  made  hot  with  stoned 
olives,  button  mushrooms,  small  forcemeat 
balls,  and  hard  boiled  yolks  of  eggs  in  equal 
parts  of  tomato  and  madeira  sauces;  served, 
surrounded  with  the  garnish. 

CALF'S  HEAD,  SAUCE  POULETTE— Slices 
of  calf's  head  meat  made  hot  in  poulette  sauce; 
served  garnished  with  balls  of  potatoes  sprinkled 
with  parsley  and  button  mushrooms. 

BRAISED  CALF'S  HEAD  WITH  VEAL 
QUENELLES  —  The  meat  prepared  and 
braised  the  same  as  given  for  "with  financifere 
garnish";  served  dipped  in  the  glaze,  and  gar- 
nished with  small  quenelles  of  veal  dipped  in 
Ravigote  sauce  alternately  with  scallops  of  the 
tongue. 

CALF'S  HEAD  FRIED,  TOMATO  SAUCE— 
Calf's  head  meat  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  dipped  in  a  mixture  of  four  beaten 
eggs,    yolks   of   two   hard   boiled   eggs  rubbed 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


29 


throagh  a  sieve  or  grater,   and  half  a  cup  of       some  small  quenelles  of  brain  forcemeat  added 

melted  butter,  then  breaded  with  grated  fresh       to  the  soup  and  served. 

crumbs,  or  dipped  in  batter  and  fried;  served   CALF'S  HEAD  SOUP,  PORTUGUESE  STYLE 


with  tomato  sauce  poured  under. 

CALFS  HEAD  AND  BRAINS,  SAUCE  POIV- 
RADE—  Prepared  and  fried  same  as  the  pre- 
ceding in  crumbs,  Poivrade  sauce  poured  under, 
and  the  ends  of  dish  garnished  with  the  brains 
cut  small  and  mixed  in  a  thick  Ravigote  sauce. 

FRICASSEE      OF     CALF'S      HEAD     WITH 


—  The  stock  the  head  was  boiled  in  strained 
into  a  good  veal  stock,  in  which  is  boiled  a 
jardiniere  of  vegetables,  some  tomatoes  and 
barley,  thickened  with  roux  ;  when  nearly 
done,  the  calf's  head  meat  and  tongue  with  a 
little  calfs  liver  blanched,  all  cut  in  small 
squares,  added  to  the  soup  and  served. 


VEGETABLES- Calf's  head  meat  cut  in  slices    MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP,  THICK— Sliced  car- 


with  the  tongue,  made  hot  in  a  rich  Allemande 
sauce,  served  with  the  sauce  poured  over  and 
garnished  with  balls  of  carrot,  turnip,  potatoes 
and  green  peas  that  have  been  boiled  separately 
in  consomm^  with  a  little  sugar. 

BOILED  CALF'S  HEAD,  SAUCE  VINAI- 
GRETTE— The  meat  and  tongue  cut  in  slices, 
made  hot  in  white  stock;  served  alternately 
with  vinaigrette  sauce  poured  over  and  gar- 
nished with  Hollandaise  potatoes. 

CALF'S  HEAD  WITH  OLIVES,  TOMATO 
SAUCE — Slices  of  calf's  head  meat  simmered 
in  tomato  sauce;  served  with  it,  and  garnished 
with  stoned  olives  that  have  been  blanched  in 
consomm^. 

STUFFED  CALF'S  HEAD,  SAUCE  PAPI- 
LOTTE — Calf's  head  meat  cut  in  portion  pieces 
diamond  shape,  thickly  spread  with  brain  force- 
meat (see  brains), arranged  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  sprinkled  with  fresh  bread  crumbs  and 
butter,  slightly  moistened  with  stock,  baked 
slowly  till  brown;  served  with  a  sauce  Papilotte 
poured  around  the  base. 

RAGOUT  OF  CALF'S  HEAD  AND  TONGUE 
— Same  as  "calf's  head,  turtle  style,"  adding 
the  tongue  cut  in  scallops,  and  garnishing  the 
ends  of  the  dish  with  croiltons. 

CALF'S  HEAD  CURRIED  WITH  RICE — 
Slices  of  the  meat  made  hot  in  a  good  curry 
sauce,  made  either  of  the  stock  the  head  was 
boiled  in,  or  veal,  or  chicken  stock,  a  border  of 
dry  boiled  rice  arranged  as  a  border  on  the 
dish,  with  the  curried  meat  in  the  center. 

OMELET  WITH  CALF'S  HEAD- -  Four-fifths 


rots,  turnips,  onions  and  shallots  saut^ed  in 
butter,  then  put  in  a  sauce  pan  with  some 
browned  veal  and  beef  bones,  a  little  vinegar, 
sweet  basil,  thyme,  bay  leaves,  mace  and  whole 
cloves,  fill  up  with  stock,  boil  up.  skimmed, 
then  add  a  calf's  head  and  boil  it  till  tender ; 
take  it  out  when  done,  put  it  in  cold  water  and 
remove  the  bones  ;  thicken  the  stock  with  roux  ; 
into  the  soup  tureen  put  the  calf's  head  cut  up 
small,  some  yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs,  slices  of 
the  white  of  egg,  small  quenelles  of  brain  force- 
meat, salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  chopped  pars- 
ley and  sherry  wine,  then  strain  the  thickened 
stock  into  it  and  serve. 

CLEAR  MOCK  TURTLE— A  consomm^  made 
of  veal  and  chicken  stock  in  which  has  been 
boiled  a  calf's  head  and  feet,  the  consomm^ 
flavored  with  essence  of  anchovies,  sweet  basil, 
mushroom  catsup,  a  little  curry  powder  and 
lemon  peel ;  serve  with  small  quenelles  of  brain 
forcemeat,  the  calf's  head  cut  in  dice,and  finish 
with  a  little  brandy. 

CALF'S  EARS  BOILED.  SAUCE  VILLEROI 
— The  ears  cut  off  close  to  the  head  before  the 
head  is  split  for  boiling,  thoroughly  washed, 
and  boiled  in  white  stock  with  vegetables  and 
spices,  taken  up;  served  with  Villeroi  sauce 
poured  over. 

CALF'S  EARS  FRIED,  TOMATO  SAUCE  — 
The  ears  boiled  as  above,  then  breaded  and 
fried,  retaining  their  shape  as  much  as  pos- 
sible ;  served  with  tomato  sauce  poured  around 
and  garnished  with  slices  of  broiled  tomatoes 
that  have  been  sprinkled  with  cheese  while 
broiling. 


of  beaten  eggs,  one-fifth  of  cold  consomme,  and    CALF'S   EARS  STUFFED.  SAUCE  BORDE- 


the  brains  of  the  head  cleaned,  beaten  to 
pulp,  little  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepjjer  and 
nutmeg,  all  mixed  together ;  small  squares  of 
catf's  head  meat  made  hot  in  madeira  sauce ; 
the  omelet  mixture  fried  in  form,  enclosing 
some  of   the  meat  in  sauce,  turned  on  to  the 


LAISE — The  ears  boiled  not  quite  done,  taken 
up,  stuffed  with  a  veal  stuflBng,  smoothing  the 
face  from  the  opening  to  the  tip,  arranged  in  a 
safltoir.  moistened  with  consomme^  and  sim- 
mered till  done  ;  served  with  Bordelaise  sauce 
poured  over  and  around. 


dish,  slit  made  in  the  top  of  the  omelet,  more    RAGOUT  OF  CALF'S  EARS  IN  CROUSTADES 


meat  put  in  ;  served  with  some  of  the  meat  and 
sauce  poured  around. 
CALF'S  HEAD  SOUP  WITH  QUENELLES— 
The  stock  the  head  was  boiled  in  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  chicken  stock  mixed,  rice  boiled  in 
it  till  soft,  then  all  rubbed  through  a  pur^e  sieve. 


— Calf's  ears  boiled  till  tender,  cut  in  small 
squares,  saut^ed  in  butter  with  mushrooms, 
stoned  olives,  pieces  of  brains  and  tongue,  but 
the  ears  predominating ;  when  colored,  surplus 
butter  drained  off,  moistened  with  madeira 
sauce,  filled  into  paste  crodstades  and  served. 


the  pur^e  thus  obtained  mixed  with  an  equal  CALF'S  EARS,  TURTLE  STYLE  — The  ears 
quantity  of  supreme  sauce  and  brought  to  the  bolied  and  left  whole,  then  made  hot  with  whole- 
boil,   calf's  head   meat  in  small  squares,  and       stoned  olives,  button  mushrooms,  small  force- 


30 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


meat  balls  of  the  brains,  and  hard-boiled  yolks 
of  eggs  in  equal  parts  of  tomato  and  madeira 
sauces  ;  served,  the  yolk  of  egg  in  the  opening 
of  the  ear,  and  surrounded  with  the  garnish. 

CALF'S  EARS  WITH  TRUFFLES,  SAUCE 
TRIANON— The  ears  boiled  and  left  whole, 
the  part  just  below  the  tip  studded  with  pieces 
of  diamond-shaped  truffle  and  the  opening  of 
the  ear  with  a  whole  glazed  truffle ;  arranged 
in  a  sailtoir  with  a  very  little  consomm^,  the 
ears  brushed  over  with  glaze,  made  hot,  and 
served  with  a  Trianon  sauce  poured  around. 

CALF'S  BRAINS— For  the  several  receipes  of 
which  see  heading  of  "  brains." 

CALF'S  FEET  — The  hoof  is  split  with  a  knife, 
then  treated  the  same  as  calf's  head;  when 
done,  the  bones  removed,  and  the  meat  pressed 
between  boards. 

FRICASSEE  OF  CALF'S  FEET  — The  cold 
meat  cut  in  neat  shaped  pieces,  made  hot  in 
Pascaline  sauce  ;  served  garnished  with  button 
mushroons  and  small  Victoria  potatoes. 

CALF'S  FEET  BOILED,  POIVRADE  SAUCE 
— Neatly  trimmed  pieces  of  the  cjld  meat  made 
hot  in  white  stock  ;  served  with  Foivrade  sauce 
poured  over  and  garnished  with  fancy  crofltons. 

FRIED  CALF'S  FEET  IN  BATTER,  ITALIAN 
SAUCE — Cold  cooked  feet,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper  and  lemon  juice,  dipped  in  plain  batter, 
fried;  served  with  brown  Italian  sauce  poured 
around,  and  garnished  with  small  potato 
croquettes. 

CALF'S  FEET  STEAMED,  SAUCE  REMOU- 
LADE — Slices  of  the  cold  meat  steamed; 
served  with  Remoulade  sauce  poured  over  and 
garnished  with  Hollandaise  potatoes. 

CALF'S  FEET  WITH  MUSHROOMS,  SAUCE 
POULETTE  — Squares  of  cold  meat  made  hot 
in  Poulette  sauce ;  served  with  the  sauce,  and 
garnished  with  button  mushrooms  that  have 
been  lightly  fried  in  butter. 

CROUSTADES  OF  CALF'S  FEET  — Small 
squares  of  the  cold  meat  made  hot  in  a  sauce 
prepared  from  the  stock  they  were  boiled  in, 
brought  to  a  simmer,  then  is  added  some  finely 
minced  yolks  of  eggs,  a  little  dry  mustard,  salt, 
red  pepper,  white  wine  and  lemon  juice,  quickly 
reduced,  filled  into  paste  croflstades  and  served. 

CALF'S  FEET  CREPINETTES,  SAUCE 
PROVENCALE— The  cold  meat  of  the  feet 
cut  up  small,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon 
juice  and  nutmeg,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  veal  or  pork  sausage  meat,  made  into  shapes 
of  small  Hamburg  steaks,  broiled  ;  served  with 
Proven^ale  sauce  poured  around. 

CALF'S  FEET  JELLY  — Raw  cleaned  calf's 
feet  chopped  up,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water  with 
a  stick  of  cinnamon  and  the  rind  of  a  lemon, 
boiled  till  soft,  and  the  liquor  well  reduced, 
strain,  allowed  to  get  cold,  then  all  fat  and 
skimmings  removed,  the  liquor  which  should 
ucive  become  like  jelly  then  put  back  into  a 
bright  kettle  with  some  beaten  whites  of  eggs, 


sugar  to  taste,  little  white  wine  and  lemon 
juice,  brought  slowly  to  the  boil  without  stir- 
ring, then  allowed  to  simmer  till  the  coagula- 
tion turns  a  grey  color,  about  twenty  minutes, 
then  strained  and  restrained  through  a  jelly 
bag;  when  nearly  cool,  filled  into  glasses  or 
molds,  and  served  when  set  and  cold. 

CALF'S  HEART  STUFFED,  MADEIRA 
SAUCE  —  The  hearts  soaked  and  the  veins 
cut  away,  put  in  boiling  water  and  simmered 
for  ten  minutes,  then  refreshed  in  cold  water, 
taken  up  and  wiped  dry,  the  cavity  made  and 
filled  with  a  poultry  stuffing,  crust  of  bread  tied 
over  the  opening  to  keep  the  stuffing  in,  roasted 
and  basted  with  gravy  till  done  ;  served  split  in 
halves,  dressing  side  up,  with  Madeira  sauce 
poured  around  and    garnished    with  croutons. 

CALF'S  HEART  STUFFED  AND  BRAISED 
— Prepare,  and  stuffed  as  above,  but  the  opening 
covered  and  tied  with  a  slice  of  salt  pork; 
arranged  in  a  sailtoir  with  slices  of  carrot, 
onions,  parsley,  bay  leaves  and  whole  cloves, 
moistened  with  stock,  braised  and  basted  till 
tender,  taken  up,  the  braise  strained,  skimmed 
and  added  to  a  Madeira  sauce,  reduced  to  a  half 
glaze  ;  the  heart  served  cut  in  halves  with  some 
of  the  glaze  poured  round  the  edges,  and  gar- 
nished with  Parisienne  potatoes. 

CALF'S  HEART  LARDED,  SAUCE  ANDA- 
LOUSE  —  The  top  of  the  heart  larded  with 
strips  of  seasoned  larding  pork,  then  prepared 
and  stuffed,  arranged  in  a  saiitoir  and  braised 
as  in  the  preceding  receipe  ;  served,  the  whole 
heart,  point  upwards  with  Andalusian  sauce 
poured  over,  and  garnished  at  the  ends  with  a 
macedoine  of  vegetables. 

CALF'S  KIDNEYS  LARDED,  MADEIRA 
SAUCE — The  kidneys  blanched  for  a  few  min- 
utes, then  freshened  in  cold  water  and  after- 
wards wiped  dry,  larded  with  seasoned  strips 
of  pork,  arranged  in  a  sautoir  with  a  dash  of 
tarragon  vinegar, powdered  mixed  herbs,  melted 
butter  and  consomme,  quickly  braised  and 
glazed ;  served  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potatoes 
with  Madeira  sauce  poured  around. 

BROCHETTE  OF  CALF'S  KIDNEYS  — See 
receipe  under  head  of  "  Brochette." 

CALF'S  KIDNEYS  BROILED,  PARSLEY 
BUTTER— The  kidneys  blanched  and  cooled, 
then  cut  in  two  lengthwise,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dipped  in  melted  butter,  rolled  in 
fresh  bread  crumbs,  broiled  till  done;  served 
on  toast  with  Miitre  D'Hotel  butter  poured 
over  them,  and  garnished  with  cress  and  lemon. 

CALF'S  KIDNEYS  SAUTfeS  WITH  MUSH- 
ROOMS—  The  kidneys  lightly  blanched  and 
refreshed,  cut  in  small  slices,  sauteed  with 
minced  onion  and  sliced  button  mushrooms; 
when  done,  sprinkled  with  parsley,  salt,  pepper 
and  a  dash  of  tarragon  vinegar,  moistened  with 
a  little  Colbert  sauce  and  served  on  a  toaat 
garnished  with  fancy  crodtons. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


PATTIES  OF  CALF'S  KIDNEYS  — Puff  paste 
patty  shells  filled  with  the  preceding,  saut^, 
but  having  the  kidneys  cut  in  very  small  dice. 

RAGOUT  OF  CALF'S  KIDNEYS  — Kidneys 
cut  about  the  same  size  as  button  mushrooms, 
saut^ed  in  butter  with  mushrooms  and  minced 
shallots  with  a  clove  of  garlic ;  when  browned, 
put  into  a  Bordelaise  sauce  and  simmered  for 
a  few  minutes ;  served,  a  border  of  potato 
croquette  mixture  forced  through  a  fancy  tube, 
sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley,  and  the  ragout 
in  the  center. 

CALF'S  KIDNEYS  CROQUETTES  WITH 
PEAS  — Cold  braised  kidneys  (see  Calf's  Kid- 
neys Larded,  Madeira  Sauce),  minced  and 
seasoned,  made  hot  in  a  thick  Madeira  sauce, 
turned  into  a  pan  to  cool, smoothed  with  a  knife, 
covered  with  a  buttered  paper ;  when  cold,  cut 
in  pieces,  formed  into  croquettes  of  the  desired 
shape,  breaded,  fried,  and  served  with  green 
peas  at  the  ends  of  the  dish  and  Madeira  sauce 
poured  around,  the  croquettes  decorated  with  a 
frill. 

CALF'S  KIDNEYS  FRIED,  SAUCE  COLBERT 
— The  kidneys  split  lengthwise  and  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  then  fried 
in  butter ;  served  on  toast  with  Colbert  sauce 
poured  over  ;  garnished  with  croiitons. 

CALF'S  KIDNEYS  IN  CROUSTADES— Broiled 
kidneys  and  cold  boiled  ham  both  cut  into  small 
dice;  minced  mushrooms  fried  in  butter,  then 
drained  and  added  to  the  meats  with  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  all  mixed,  moistened  with 
Bechamel  sauce,  made  hot,  filled  into  croustades 
and  served. 

CALF'S  KIDNEY  OMELET  — The  mixture 
given  for  "Patties  of  Calf's  Kidneys,"  the 
omelet  made  of  beaten  eggs,  chopped  chives, 
parsley,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  enclosing 
some  of  the  kidneys,  and  served  with  more  of 
the  meat  in  sauce  poured  around. 

CALF'S  LIVER  WITH  CRISPED  ONIONS— 
The  liver  trimmed  from  veins,  larded  through 
with  seasoned  strips  of  bacon,  placed  in  a 
safltoir  with  bacon  trimmings,  little  consomme 
and  sherry  wine,  cover  put  on,  and  roasted  till 
done  and  glazy,  liver  taken  up,  brown  sauce 
added  to  the  residue  of  the  safltoir,  boiled, 
skimmed  and  strained,  liver  served  in  slices 
with  the  gravy  and  garnished  with  rings  of 
onions  that  have  been  dipped  in  milk,  rolled  in 
flour  and  fried  in  hot  fat. 

CALF'S  LIVER  SAUT£  WITH  BACON  — 
Slices  of  liver  and  bacon,  the  bacon  fried  first, 
then  the  liver  seasoned  and  rolled  in  flour,  fried 
in  bacon  fat ;  when  done,  flour  added  to  the 
pan,  stirred,  and  moistened  with  stock,  boiled 
up,  strained,  skimmed,  juice  of  lemon  added  ; 
the  liver  served  with  some  of  the  gravy  and 
garnished  with  the  bacon. 
CALI-'S  liver  STEWED  WITH  ONIONS— 
Green  spring  onions  chopped  and  fried  in  bacon 


fat  in  a  safltoir,  liver  cut  small  and  put  with  the 
onions  and  tossed  over  a  quick  fire  till  set,  su- 
perfluous fat  then  poured  off,  flour  stirred  in, 
moistened  with  stock,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  simmered  till  tender ;  served  garnished 
with  a  border  of  Victoria  potatoes. 
BRAISED  CALF'S  LIVER  WITH  VEGE- 
TABLES— The  liver  trimmed  from  veins, 
larded  with  seasoned  strips  of  bacon,  placed  in 
a  safltoir  with  some  bacon  trimmings,  carrot, 
onion,  parsley,  bay  leaves  and  whole  cloves, 
moistened  with  consomm^  and  sherry  wine, 
covered  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  lid  put 
on,  braised  till  tender,  taken  up,  sauce  added 
to  the  braise,  boiled  up,  strained  and  skimmed ; 
the  liver  served  in  slices  and  garnished  with 
balls  of  carrot,  turnip  and  small  glazed  onions. 
CALF'S  LIVER  FRIED  WITH  FINE  HERBS 
— Slices  of  the  liver  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  fried  in  bacon  fat  with 
minced  chives  and  shallots,  taken  up,  grease 
poured  off,  fines-herbes  sauce  added  to  the 
pan,  boiled  up,  served  witL  the  liver. 
CALF'S  LIVER  BROILED,  ITALIAN  SAUCE 
— Slices  of  liver  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rolled  in  flour,  dipped  in  melted  butter,  broiled 
till  done ;  served  with  brown  Italian  sauce 
poured  around  and  garnished  with  chip  potatoes. 
SCALLOPS  OF  CALF'S  LIVER  WITH 
MUSHROOMS — Small  pieces  of  liver  seasoned 
and  fried  in  bacon  fat,  taken  up  and  put  into  a 
brown  Italian  sauce,  simmered  for  a  few  min- 
utes, served  with  a  border  of  fried  button  mush- 
rooms. 
CALF'S  LIVER  AND  BACON  WITH  SPINACH 
— The  liver  larded  and  braised,  the  bacon  boiled 
tender,  the  spinach  boiled  in  the  bacon  water, 
drained,  pressed,  chopped  fine  and  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper  ;  served,  the  spinach  as  a 
bed,  the  liver  and  bacon  in  slices  alternately  on 
top,  with  some  of  the  gravy  from  the  braising 
poured  around. 
BROCHETTE  OF  CALF'S  LIVER  WITH 
BACON  —  See  recipe  under  heading  of 
"Brochette." 
CALF'S  LIVER  WITH  SMOTHERED 
ONIONS — The  liver  in  slices,  seasoned,  floured 
and  fried,  the  onions  sliced  and  steamed  for  a 
few  minutes,  then  put  in  a  safltoir  with  bacon 
fat  and  smothered  a  light  brown  over  a  quick 
fire ;  the  liver  served  garnished  with  the  onions. 
LIVER  CHEESE,  ITALIAN  STYLE  — Calf's 
liver  four-fifths,  salt  pork  one-fifth,  finely 
minced  with  a  few  shallots,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  nutmeg,  powdered  thyme  and 
sherry  wine;  bread  pans  lined  with  thin  slices 
of  bacon,  the  liver  mince  filled  in,  with  slices 
of  bacon  and  bay  leaves  on  top,  covered  with 
buttered  paper  and  slowly  baked  till  done  (about 
three  hours);  served  either  cold  in  slices,  or  be- 
tween bread  as  sandwiches,  or  in  slices  hot, 
with  Italian  sauce  poured  over. 


32 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


LIVER  FORCEMEAT  BALLS— Made  the  same 
as  "liver  cheese"  above,  but  adding  some  bread 
crumbs,  raw  yolks  of  eggs  and  chopped  parsley; 
when  thoroughly  mixed,  made  into  ball^  and 
poached  till  done  in  white  stock;  served  with  a 
Hollandaise  sauce.  The  Germans  call  this  dish 
"LIVER  KLOSSE." 

TIMBALE  OF  CALF'S  LIVER.  PIQUANT 
SAUCE— The  "liver  cheese"  above  filled  into 
timbale  molds,  and  steamed  or  baked  till  done; 
served  with  piquant  sauce  poured  over. 

CALF'S  LIVER  QUENELLES  IN  CRUMBS— 
The  "forcemeat"  mixture  above,  shaped  like 
eggs  between  two  spoons,  poached,  taken  up, 
and  rolled  in  fried  bread  crumbs;  served  gar- 
nished with  parsley  and  lemon,  and  Allemande 
sauce  served  separately. 

POTTED  CALF'S  LIVER  WITH  ASPIC 
JELLY — Slices  of  liver  fried  in  bacon  fat  with 
minced  onions  and  mushrooms,  taken  up  and 
pounded  to  a  paste  with  wine,  powdered  mixed 
herbs,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  then  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve  with  its  equal  weight  of  fat 
bacon;  into  this  puree  is  then  mixed  a  minced 
clove  of  garlic,  some  ham  and  bacon  fat  cut  in 
small  dice;  when  thoroughly  incorporated, 
filled  into  bread  pans,  covered  with  thick  but- 
tered paper,  the  filled  pans  put  into  roasting 
pans  containing  cold  water  half  way  up,  put  in 
oven  and  slowly  baked  till  done  (about  two 
tours),  taken  out,  allowed  to  partly  cool,  then 
turned  out,  trimmed;  served  cold  in  slices, 
decorated  with  aspic  jelly. 

CALF'S  TONGUE  BRAISED,  TOMATO 
SAUCE — The  tongues  blanched  and  freshened, 
then  larded  with  strips  of  seasoned  larding  pork, 
arranged  in  sailtoir  with  carrot,  onion,  parsley, 
bay  leaves  and  whole  cloves,  moistened  with 
stock,  braised  and  glazed;  served  in  slices  cut 
lengthwise,  with  tomato  sauce. 

CALF'S  TONGUE  SAUTfe,  VINAIGRETTE— 
The  tongues  blanched,  freshened  and  skinned, 
then  cut  lengthwise  in  slices,  saut^ed  in  butter 
with  minced  shallots;  served  with  sauce  vinai- 
grette. 

CALF'S  TONGUE,  SAUCE  TARTARE— The 
braised  tongues  above,  allowed  to  become  cold; 
served  in  slices  with  tartare  sauce,  garnished 
with  strips  of  pickles. 

CALF'S  TONGUE  FRIED.  SAUCE  ROBERT 
— The  tongue  boiled  with  vegetables,  herbs  and 
spices,  skinned,  cut  lengthwise  in  slices,  bread- 
ed, fried;  served  with  a  Robert  sauce  poured 
under. 

CALF'S  TONGUE  WITH  POTATOES,  MUSH- 
ROOM  SAUCE— The  tongues  boiled  and  skin- 
ned as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  then  cut  in  long 
slices,  dipped  in  glaze,  arranged  on  a  bed  of 
mashed  potatoes,  with  mushroom  sauce  poured 
around. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  BROILED.  SAUCE 
COLBERT— The  sweetbreads  soaked  in  cold 
salted  water  for  a  few  hours,  then  boiled  with 


a  few  whole  spices,  bay  leaves,  vegetables  and 
a  dash  of  vinegar  till  tender,  taken  up,  put  into 
cold  water  and  all  rough  fat  and  skin  removed, 
then  pressed  between  boards  till  cold  (for  the 
follozuing  recipes  the  above  directions  zvill  be 
called  "prepared")  when  cold  split  in  slices, 
dipped  in  melted  butter,  then  in  seasoned  bread 
crumbs,  broiled;  served  with  Colbert  sauce 
poured  around.  They  may  also  be  served  with 
maitre  d'hotel  butter,  and  garnished  with  fancy 
potatoes. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  SAUTfiS  WITH 
PEAS — Prepared  sweetbreads  split  and  sauteed 
in  butter;  served  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potatoes, 
with  green  peas  in  sauce  poured  around. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  IN  CREAM,  ON 
TOAST — Prepared  sweetbreads  cut  in  slices 
crosswise,  made  hot  in  reduced  cream;  served 
on  toast,  sprinkled  with  finely  chopped  parsley, 
with  some  of  the  cream  poured  around. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  FRIED,  SAUCE 
PERIGUEUX  —  Prepared  sweetbreads  split, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  dipped 
in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  fried  a  golden 
color;  served  with  Perigueux  sauce,  and  gar- 
nished with  fancy  croutons. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH  BROWN 
BUTTER — Prepared  sweeibreads  split,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  herbs 
rolled  in  flour,  fried  in  butter;  served  with 
brown  butter,  made  by  melting  butter  to  the 
frothing  point,  then  adding  lemon  juice  and 
chopped  parsley;  poured  over  the  sweetbreads 
on  hot  dish. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREAD  CROQUETTES 
WITH  PEAS— Prepared  sweetbreads  cut  into 
small  dice,  mixed  with  half  the  amount  of  grated 
boiled  ham,  a  few  minced  sauteed  shalljts  and 
mushrooms,  thoroughly  heated  in  a  thick  V^- 
lout^  sauce,  seasoned  with  lemon  juice  and 
nutmeg,  poured  into  a  buttered  shallow  pan, 
smoothed  with  a  knife,  covered  with  buttered 
paper;  when  cold,  cut  into  pieces  of  an  equal 
size,  shaped,  breaded,  fried,  served  with  green 
peas  in  white  sauce  or  half  glaze  as  a  border, 
with  frills  in  the  croquettes. 

RISSOLES  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS 
WITH  VEGETABLES— The  croquette  mix- 
ture above,  when  cold,  cut  out  and  formed  into 
balls,  size  of  small  egg;  two  sheets  ot  puft  paste 
rolled  out,  the  balls  put  in  sections  all  over  one, 
covered  with  the  other,  edges  pressed  down, 
then  stamped  out  with  a  fancy  cutter,  arranged 
on  a  baking  sheet,  washed  over,  baked;  served 
garnished  with  a  macedoine  ot  vegetables  in 
brown  sauce. 

RISSOLETTES  are  the  same  as  rissoles,  but 
smaller. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  IN  SHELL— The 
croquette  mixture  above,  filled  into  buttered 
scallop  shells,  sprinkled  with  grated  oread 
crumbs  and  melted  butter,  browned  in  tne  oven 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


33 


and  served,  (called,  SWEETBREADS  EN 
COQUILLE). 

SCALLOPED  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  — 
The  same  as  the  preceding,  with  the  addition 
of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  mixed  with  the  bread 
crumbs;  served  in  the  shell,  (called,  SWEET- 
BREADS EN  COQUILLE  AU  GRATIN). 

PATTIES  OF  SCRAMBLED  CALF'S  SWEET- 
BREADS— Prepared  sweetbreads  cut  into  small 
dice,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice 
and  chopped  parsley,  mixed  into  beaten  eggs 
with  a  little  cream,  scrambled  in  butter  but 
kept  soft,  (best  when  scrambled  to  order)  filled 
into  hot  patty  shells  and  served  with  a  little 
V^lout^  sauce  poured  around. 

CUTLETS  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS 
WITH  VEGETABLES— The  croquette  mix- 
ture (see  Calf's  Sweetbread  Croquettes  with 
Peas)  when  cold,  cat  out  and  shaped  like  small 
lamb  chops,  with  a  piece  of  macaroni  to  repre- 
sent the  bone,  breaded  and  fried;  served  with 
a  border  of  Julienne  vegetables  mixed  into  Hol- 
landaise  sauce,  (called,  SWEETBREAD  CUT- 
LETS k  la  NIVERNAISE). 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH  FINAN- 
CIERE  RAGOUT  —  Prepared  sweetbreads 
split  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg, rolled  in  flour,  sauteed  in  butter,  taken 
up,  kept  hot  in  glaze,  served  on  fancy  crofitons 
surrounded  with  a  garnish  of  cock's  combs  and 
kernels,  button  mushrooms,  small  quenelles  and 
truffles,  all  made  hot  in  a  rich  Madeira  sauce, 
(called  SWEETBREAD  SAUT£  lilaFINAN- 
CI£RE). 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  IN  CASES  —  Pre- 
pared sweetbreads  cut  in  small  dice,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  red  pepper,  made  hot  in  Veloute 
sauce,  filled  into  paper  cases,  sprinkled  with 
fresh  bread  crumbs  and  melted  butter,  arranged 
on  a  baking  sheet  and  very  quickly  browned  in 
the  oven  or  with  a  salamander  and  served. 

VOL-AU-VENT  OF  SWEETBREADS  AND 
MUSHROOMS— The  preceding  with  the  addi- 
tion of  an  equal  quantity  of  cut  and  sauteed 
mushrooms,  filled  into  a  good  sized  pufiE  paste 
patty  shell  with  a  cover  placed  on  and  served. 

TIMBALE  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS-- 
Prepared  sweetbreads  larded  and  braised,  al- 
lowed to  become  cold,  then  cut  in  thin  slices. 
A  rich  forcemeat  of  cooked  chicken  and  mush- 
rooms well  seasoned,  the  sweetbreads  and  force- 
meat filled  into  timbale  molds  in  alternate 
layers;  when  full,  moistened  with  the  reduced 
and  strained  braise,  the  opening  covered  with 
the  same  short  paste  as  the  molds  are  lined 
with,  baked,  turned  out;  served  with  a  Madeira 
sauce  containing  a  little  chopped  parsley  and 
some  mushroom  tops,  poured  over  and  around. 

BOUCHEES  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS— 
For  recipe  see  heading  of  "Bouchees". 

BROCHETTE  OR  ATTEREAUX  OF  CALF'S 
SWEETBREADS — For  recipe  see  "Brochette" 

BRAISED    CALF'S    SWEETBREADS.    GAR- 


NISHED— Prepared  sweetbreads  larded  with 
seasoned  strips  of  bacon,  then  arranged  in  a 
safltoir  on  a  bed  of  thinly  sliced  vegetables, 
with  bay  leaves  and  one  or  two  cloves,  covered 
with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  moistened  with  stock, 
covered  with  buttered  paper,  lid  put  on  and 
braised  quickly  for  half  an  hour  with  frequent 
basting;  when  done,  the  lid,  paper  and  bacon 
removed,  then  put  back  into  the  oven  to  dry 
the  glaze  on  top  of  the  sweetbreads,  taken  up, 
the  braise  strained  and  skimmed,  then  poured 
to  a  mixture  of  diced  red  tongue,  truffles,  mush- 
rooms and  chicken  breast,  little  Madeira  wine 
and  sauce  then  added;  the  sweetbreads  served 
on  toast  surrounded  with  the  garnish,  (called, 
SWEETBREADS  BRAISED  k  la  MONT- 
GLAS). 

GLAZED  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
FRENCH  BEANS  —  Prepared  sweetbreads 
larded  and  braised  as  in  the  preceding,  the 
braise  strained,  skimmed  and  mixed  with  green 
French  beans  (Haricot  Verts),  the  sweetbreads 
served  surrounded  with  the  beans. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH  DEMI- 
GLACE  —  Prepared  sweetbreads  larded  and 
braised  as  (see  Braised  Calf's  Sweetbreads, 
Garnished),  when  done  the  braise  strained  over 
them,  reduced  with  a  little  Madeira  sauce  and 
wine;  served  on  toast  rolled  in  glaze,  and  gar- 
nished. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  LARDED  AND 
BRAISED,  MUSHROOM  SAUCE- Same  as 
"Braised  Calf's  Sweetbreads  Garnished",  the 
braise  strained  into  a  rich  mushroom  sauce,  the 
sweetbreads  served  surrounded  with  the  mush- 
rooms in  sauce. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  LARDED,  SAUCE 
TOULOUSE  —  Prepared  sweetbreads  larded 
and  braised,  served  with  asparagus  points  at 
one  end,  green  peas  at  the  other  end  of  the 
dish,  with  Toulouse  sauce  at  the  sides. 

BLANQUETTE  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREAD^ 
— Slices  of  prepared  sweetbreads  made  hot  in  a 
light  colored  Allemande  sauce,  served  with  it 
and  decorated  on  the  top  with  slices  of  truffles. 

CASSEROLE  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS— 
Slices  of  prepared  sweetbreads  and  mushrooms 
made  hot  in  Velout^  sauce,  the  serving  dish  con- 
taining a  high  border  of  potato  croquette  mix- 
ture glazed  and  browned,  the  sweetbreads  filled 
into  the  centre,  sprinkled  with  minced  truffle 
peelings  and  served. 

FRICANDEAU  OF  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
CHICORY— Prepared  sweetbreads  larded  and 
braised  as  in  "Braised  Calf's  Sweetbreads, 
Garnished,"  when  done  the  braise  strained, 
skimmed,  then  poured  over  the  sweetbreads  and 
reduced  to  a  glaze  ;  served  on  a  bed  of  pur^e  of 
chicory  or  spinach,  with  a  rich  Madeira  sauce 
poured  around. 

CROUSTADE  OF  CURRIED  CALF'S  SWEET- 
BREADS—  Prepared  sweetbreads  split  and 
then  sliced,  made  hot  in  a  good  curry  sauce 


34 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


prepared  from  the  stock  they  were  boiled  in, 
filled  into  paste  croflstade  cases,  served  two 
cases  full  alternately  with  small  turned-out 
molds  of  dry  boiled  rice. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  FRIED,  MUSH- 
ROOM SAUCE — Prepared  sweetbreads  split, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  rolled 
in  flour,  dipped  into  beaten  eggs,  fried  in  hot 
fat,  served  surrounded  with  button  mushrooms 
in  a  Maderia  sauce. 

RAGOUT  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  ON 
TOAST— Prepared  sweetbreads  split  and  then 
cut  in  slices,  mixed  with  half  the  amount  of 
sliced  mushrooms,  made  hot  in  a  Maderia 
sauce,  served  piled  on  toast  with  the  sauce 
around,  garnished  with  fancy  croiitons  whose 
ends  are  dipped  in  sauce,  then  in  chopped  pars- 
ley. 

SWEETBREADS  ANDTRUFFLES  IN  SHELL 
— Prepared  sweetbreads  cut  in  slices,  mixed 
with  slices  of  truffles  and  mushrooms,  made 
hot  in  a  thick  AUemande  sauce,  filled  into 
scallop  shells,  sprinkled  with  bread  crumbs  and 
melted  butter,  browned  in  the  oven  or  with  a 
salamander,  and  served. 

STEWED  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
KIDNEY  BEANS  —  Prepared  sweetbreads 
split,  and  made  hot  in  V^lout^  sauce  containing 
minced  shallots,  whole  mace,  pieces  of  bacon 
and  sweet  herbs  for  half  an  hour,  taken  up,  a 
liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream  then  beaten  into 
the  sauce  and  strained  over  the  sweetbreads ; 
served  garnished  with  saut^ed  kidney  beans 
(flageolets)  at  ends,  sauce  at  the  sides. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH  CREAMED 
MUSHROOMS— Prepared  sweetbreads  cut  in 
slices  and  sauteed  in  butter  piled  on  toast; 
served  surrounded  with  sliced  mushrooms 
boiled  down  in  reduced  cream. 

RAGOUT  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
MORELS — Prepared  sweetbreads  cut  in  slices 
and  sauteed  in  butter,  then  mixed  into  a  rich 
Madeira  sauce ;  served  on  toast,  surrounded 
with  sliced  morels  that  have  been  fried  in  their 
own  oil. 

BRAISED  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
SORREL — Prepared  sweetbreads  larded  and 
braised  as  in  "Braised  Calf's  Sweetbreads,  Gar- 
nished"; served  on  a  bed  of  puree  of  sorrel, 
with  some  of  the  strained  and  skimmed  glaze 
poured  over  and  around. 

KROMESKIES  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS 
— The  croquette  mixture  (see  Calf's  Sweet- 
bread Croquettes  with  Peas)  when  cold,  cut  out 
and  shaped  like  long  corks,  then  rolled  into  a 
thin  slice  of  cold  boiled  bacon,  pinned  with  a 
toothpick,  dipped  into  a  plain  batter  and  fried, 
toothpick  then  removed  ;  served  with  a  rich 
v^lout^  sauce  poured  around. 

CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  FRIED,  SAUCE 
VILLEROI — Prepared  sweetbreads  split  and 
coated  with  cold  Villeroi  sauce,  then  rolled  in 


bread  crumbs,  beaten  eggs  and  again  bread 
crumbs,  fried;  served  with  Villeroi  sauce  poured 
around,  and  the  ends  of  dish  garnished  with 
green  peas  that  have  been  sauteed  in  butter. 

FRICASSEE  OF  SWEETBREADS  AND 
MUSHROOMS— Prepared  sweetbreads  split 
and  simmered  in  sauce  Albert,  served  with  it, 
and  garnished  with  button  mushrooms  that 
have  been  lightly  fried  in  butter  and  sprinkled 
with  chopped  parsley. 

BRAISED  SWEETBREADS,  SAUCE  BEARN- 
AISE — Prepared  sweetbreads  larded  and 
braised  (as  in  Braised  Calf's  Sweetbreads,  Gar- 
nished); served  decorated  at  the  ends  and  sides 
with  slices  of  tuffles,  and  with  Bearnaise  sauce 
poured  around. 

SAUTfe  OF  CALF'S  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
BAKED  TOMATOES— Prepared  sweetbreads 
split,  rolled  in  flour,  sauteed  in  butter  with 
minced  shallots,  strips  of  green  peppers  and  a 
crushed  clove  of  garlic ;  when  browned,  equal 
parts  of  tomato  and  Napolitaine  sauces  added, 
simmered  ten  minutes,  taken  up,  sauce  strained 
over  them.  Served  with  some  of  the  sauce  and 
garnished  with  small  stuffed  and  baked  toma- 
toes. 

SWEETBREADS  BREADED,  SAUCE  TAR- 
TARE — Prepared  sweetbreads  split  and  spread 
on  both  sides  with  tartar  sauce,  rolled  in 
crumbs,  then  breaded  and  fried ;  served  with 
Tartar  sauce  served  separately,  and  garnished 
with  lemon  and  parsley. 

EPIGRAMME  OF  SWEETBREADS,  SAUCE 
BfiCHAMEL — Prepared  sweetbreads  split  and 
trimmed  to  a  cutlet  shape,  half  of  them  dipped 
in  cooling  Bechamel  sauce  and  when  cold  rolled 
in  bread  crumbs,  then  breaded  and  fried,  the 
other  half  made  hot  in  rich  white  stock,  then 
taken  up  and  dipped  in  glaze,  then  coated  with 
B^hamel  sauce ;  served,  one  of  each,  sur- 
rounded with  scallops  of  red  tongue  and  sliced 
mushrooms  in  Bechamel  sauce. 

SCALLOPS  OF  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
TOULOUSE  RAGOUT  —  Prepared  sweet- 
breads cut  in  slices,  then  cut  circular  with  large 
sized  column  cutter,  dipped  in  cooling  AUem- 
ande sauce,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  afterwards 
breaded  and  fried  a  golden  color  in  butter; 
served  overlapping  each  other  round  the  dish, 
the  centre  filled  with  cocks  combs  and  kernels, 
truffles  cut  in  small  squares,  the  trimmings  of 
the  sweetbreads,  and  button  mushrooms  all 
made  hot  in  AUemande  sauce. 

SCALLOPS  OF  SWEETBREADS  WITH 
POTATO  CROQUETTES— The  sweetbreads 
cut  and  fried  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  served 
overlapping  each  other  around  the  dish,  the 
centre  filled  with  small  potato  cone-shaped 
croquettes,  the  points  being  dipped  in  white 
sauce,  then  in  chopped  parsley,  with  a  sauce 
Poulette  around  their  base. 

LARDED  SWEETBREADS  WITH  TOU- 
LOUSE   RAGOUT  —  Prepared    sweetbreads 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


35 


larded  through  from  top  to  bottom  with  alter- 
nate strips  of  red  tongue  and  truffles,  so  that 
they  resemble  a  studding ;  braised  as  in 
"Braised  Calf's  Sweetbreads,  Garnished"; 
served  surrounded  with  a  Toulouse  ragout  as 
given  in  ' '  Scallops  of  Sweetbreads  with  Tou- 
louse Ragout." 

SWEETBREAD  SALAD— Slices  of  prepared 
sweetbread  dipped  in  flour  and  fried  iu  butter, 
allowed  to  become  cold,  shredded  lettuce  in 
centre  of  the  dish  with  cream  salad  dressing, 
sweetbreads  masked  with  mayonnaise  arranged 
around  the  lettuce,  the  lettuce  decorated  with 
alternate  slices  of  radishes  and  stamped  pieces 
of  pickled  beet. 

SWEETBREAD  SOUP  —  Minced  ham  and 
onions  with  prepared  sweetbreads  and  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  slowly  sauteed  in  butter  for  an 
hour,  then  flour  added  to  form  a  paste,  this 
then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  the  puree 
then  worked  into  a  good  veal  or  chicken  stock, 
boiled  up  and  skimmed,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  sugar  ;  served  with  small 
croutons  browned  in  the  oven  (called  POTAGE 
^laCOMTESSE). 

CAMEMBERT — Name  of  an  imported  cheese, 
put  up  in  round  flat  boxes  like  brie.  Is  in  its 
prime  when  just  soft  and  creamy  with  an  in- 
clination to  run ;  served  in  small  quantities 
with  toasted  crackers. 

CANAPES — A  French  term  literally  meaning  a 
"couch,"  used  in  a  culinary  sense  as  a  bed  or 
something  to  rest  savory  foods  on,  usually  in 
the  form  of  bread  or  toast  covered  with  minces, 
pastes,  etc.,  then  decorated. 

ANCHOVY  CANAPES— Hard  boiled  eggs  and 
anchovies  finely  minced  and  spread  on  buttered 
toast.  Also,  very  shallow  gem  pans  lined  with 
pie  paste  and  baked,  then  filled  when  cold  with 
anchovies  pounded  to  a  paste  with  Gruyere 
cheese,  inverted  on  a  circle  of  buttered  toast 
and  garnished  with  minced  gherkins.  Also,  a 
mixture  of  chopped  anchovies,  grated  ham, 
truffles  and  gherkins  mixed  and  moistened  with 
salad  oil  and  caper  vinegar,  then  filled  into 
very  small  patty  cases  ;  served  garnished  with 
pieces  of  toast  and  aspic  jelly. 

CANAPES  BERNE,  OR  SWISS  CANAPES— 
Triangle-shaped  pieces  of  toast  spread  with 
anchovy  butter,  decorated  with  minced  whites 
of  eggs  down  one  side,  yolks  on  the  other,  and 
the  third  with  minced  green  gherkins,  and  a 
stuffed  olive  in  the  centre. 

CANAPES  OF  CRAB— Circles  of  toast  spread 
with  deviled  crab  meat,  sprinkled  with  Parme- 
san cheese  and  browned  in  the  oven  (called 
CANAPE  LORENZO). 

CANAPES  OF  SMOKED  SALMON— Strips  of 
toast  spread  with  anchovy  butter,  a  thin  circle 
of  smoked  salmon  on  top,  the  edges  decorated 
with  hard  boiled  eggs  minced  and  mixed  with 
chopped  parsley. 

CANAPES  OF  CHICKEN    LIVERS— Chicken 


livers  sauteed  with  an  onion  till  tender,  then 
pounded  to  a  paste  with  a  dash  of  anchovy  es- 
sence, salt,  red  pepper  and  butter,  piled  in 
pyramid  form  on  fried  shapes  of  bread,  smoothed 
with  a  knife  and  made  hot  in  the  oven  ;  served 
decorated  with  slices  of  pimentoes  and  rings  of 
red  chillies. 

CANAPES  OF  SHRIMPS— Fancy  shaped  slices 
of  toast  spread  with  shrimp  paste  and  decorated 
with  coiled  shrimps. 

CANAPES  OF  POTTED  TONGUE— Circles 
of  brown  bread  toast  spread  with  potted  tongue 
and  decorated  in  lattice  form  with  strips  of  red 
cooked  tongue. 

INDIAN  CANAPES— Circles  of  bread  fried  in 
butter,  spread  first  with  potted  ham,  then  with 
chutney,  strewed  with  Parmesan  cheese, 
browned  in  the  oven  and  served. 

CANAPES  OF  POTTED  HAM— Strips  of  toast 
spread  with  potted  ham,  then  sprinkled  with 
grated  ham,  decorated  with  thin  slices  of  green 
gherkins. 

SARDINE  CANAPES— Triangle-shaped  pieces 
of  toast  spread  with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of 
boiled  egg  yolks  and  sardines  pounded  to  a 
paste  and  seasoned  with  red  pepper  and  lemon 
juice,  decorated  with  a  coiled  anchovy  out  of 
oil  in  the  centre. 

CANAPES  OF  CAVIAR— Circles  of  toast,  the 
edges  spread  with  anchovy  butter,  with  an 
onion  ring  as  its  base,  the  ring  filled  with  Rus- 
sian caviar. 

OLIVE  CANAPES— Circles  of  buttered  toast 
with  a  coiled  anchovy  on  it,  and  a  stuffed  olive 
in  the  centre  of  the  coil.  Also  circles  of  toast 
fried  in  butter,  then  spread  with  anchovy  paste, 
minced  olives  and  capers  on  top. 

CANAPE  CHASSEUR— Triangle  shaped  pieces 
of  toast  spread  with  a  game  forcemeat,  the 
edges  decorated  with  another  forcemeat  of  game 
but  of  different  color. 

CANAPES  OF  OYSTERS  —  Strips  of  toast 
spread  with  blanched  and  minced  oysters  mixed 
into  a  HoUandaise  sauce,  sprinkled  with  parsley 
dust.  Clams  may  be  treated  the  same  way  and 
named  accordingly. 

SAVORY  CANAPES  — Strips  of  toast  spread 
with  a  mixture  of  grated  ham,  cheese,  cream 
sauce  and  scrambled  eggs,  the  edges  decorated 
with  lobster  coral. 

CANAPE  MADISON— Slices  of  toast  on  which 
is  laid  a  thin  slice  of  lean  ham  spread  with 
French  mustard,  this  again  is  spread  with  a 
cold  white  sauce  containing  minced  cooked 
onions,  garlic,  and  cheese;  Parmesan  cheese  is 
then  dredged  on  top,  sprinkled  with  fine  bread 
crumbs,  baked  and  served. 

CHICKEN  CANAPES— Circles  of  toast  spread 
with  chicken  forcemeat  in  which  is  worked 
cream  and  butter,  dredged  with  Parmesan 
cheese  and  baked,  then  decorated  in  the  centre 
with  a  stamped  piece  of  white  of  egg. 

CREOLE  CANAPES — Grated  lean  ham,  onion, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


garlic  and  chopped  parsley  with  pieces  of  peeled 
tomatoes  and  minced  green  peppers,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  stewed  down  dry,  then 
spread  on  strips  of  buttered  toast,  dredged 
with  Parmesan  cheese  and  baked. 

SCOTCH  CANAPES— Breast  of  chicken,  red 
tongue  and  lean  ham  all  cut  into  very  small 
dice,  seasoned  with  nutmeg  and  a  little  curry 
powder,  then  worked  into  a  thick  Veloute  sauce, 
spread  on  slices  of  toast,  dredged  with  Parme- 
san cheese  and  baked,  (also  called,  CANAPE 
ABERDEEN). 

CANAPE  WINDSOR— Strips  of  toast  spread 
with  a  forcemeat  of  any  kind  of  white  fleshed 
fish,  seasoned  with  mustard  and  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  dredged  with  Parmesan  cheese  and 
baked. 


vegetables,  then  colored  with  a  coal  tar  product 
and  loaded  with  salicylic  acid  to  prevent  fermen- 
tation. Fruit  butters  are  nothing  but  parings 
and  scrapings  of  fruit,  to  which  glucose,  starch 
and  colorings  have  been  added,  with  salicylic 
acid  as  a  preservative.  Jellies  are  made  from 
glucose,  flavored  with  essential  oils  and  colored, 
to  which  salicylic  acid  is  added.  Some  fruit 
jellies  marked  as  pure,  have  never  seen  a  trace 
of  fruit.  What  is  true  of  jellies  is  true  of  pre- 
serves. Put  together  refuse  material,  the  cheap- 
est sort  of  glucose,  some  coloring  and  salicylic 
acid,  and  you  have  the  composition  of  seme  of 
the  cheaper  forms  of  preserves  that  are  to  be 
found  on  the  shelves  of  some  of  our  grocery- 
stores.  Of  these  coarser  forms  of  adulterations 
it  will  be  unnecessary  to  say  even  a  word;  they 


CANAPE  CABILLAUD — Triangle  shaped  pieces   are  universally  recognized  as  being  unfit  for  use 


of  toast  spread  with  a  forcemeat  made  of  boiled 
salt  codfish,  mixed  with  minced  green  peppers 
and  spring  onions  seasoned  with  tarragon  vine- 
gar, decorated  with  capers, 

MADRAS  CANAPES— Circles  of  toast  spread 
with  a  mixture  of  finely  minced  white  fleshed 
fish,  Madras  chutney  and  sweet  pickles,  moist- 
ened with  Hollandaise  sauce,  dredged  with 
Parmesan  cheese  and  baked,  (also  called, 
CANAPE  WINCHESTER). 

CHEESE  CANAPES— Strips  of  bread  hollowed 
out  half  their  thickness,  then  toasted,  the  inner 
part  sprayed  with  Worcestershire  sauce,  the 
cavity  then  fitted  with  a  slice  of  Swiss  cheese, 
baked,  and  served  very  hot. 

CANNELONS— Name  given  to  hollow  lengths  of 


and  every  honest  dealer  is  of  the  opinion  that  the 

sooner   they   are   driven   out  of  the  market  the 

better  it  will  be  for  trade." 

CANTELOUPES— Are  of  different  kinds  in  our 
markets;  although  the  "Nutmeg"  is  pronounced 
the  best,  many  have  a  distinct  fancy  for  the 
"Osage"  with  its  thick  yellow  fruit.  In  select- 
ing the  nutmegs,  those  which  have  a  thick 
broad  cording  on  the  rind,  and  with  the  section 
marks  inclined  to  a  yellow  color,  will  be  found 
the  best  fruit.  To  be  served  they  are  first  kept 
on  ice,  then  scrubbed  or  washed,  split  in  halves 
lengthwise,  pith  and  seeds  removed,  and  the 
cavity  filled  with  small  broken  ice;  eaten  by 
some  with  powdered  sugar,  by  others  with  salt 
and  pepper. 


noodle  or  puff  paste  made  by  twining  strips  of   CAPERCAILZIE — A   game   bird  of  the  grouse 


the   paste   around   a  piece  of  pipe  or  tubing, 
then  either  baked  or  fried,   the  pipe  removed, 
the  cannelons   may  then  be  filled  with  force- 
meats, croquette  mixtures,  creams,  preserves, 
etc. 
CANARD — French  name  for  wild  duck.     Cane- 
ton  for  domestic  duck  or  duckling. 
CANNED    GOODS  — The    following    quotation 
clipped  from  The  Sanitarian  is  given  for  the 
reader  to  form  his  own  views: 
"Under  one  heading  we  may  consider  several 
groups   of  foodstuffs,   which,   while  different  in 
composition,  are  alike  in  the  form  of  adulteration 
which  is  resorted  to.     These  groups  include  the 
varieties  of  canned  vegetables,  fruit  butters,   jel- 
lies, preserves  and  catsups.     The  forms  of  adul- 
terations,  common  to  all  of  these,  consist  in  the 
use  of  coloring  matter,  of  imperfect  vegetables  or 
fruits,  of  other  vegetables  and  fruits  than  those 
called  for  of  preservatives.     In  the  case  of  can- 
ned vegetables,  there  is  an  accidental  adultera- 
tion from  the  ingredients  of  the  can,  such  as  lead 
and  tin,  and  which  may,  as  a  rule,  be  attributed 
to  a  lack  of  care  in  canning.     In  all  the  groups 
mentioned,  the  adulteration  practised  is  one  of 
the  most  flagrant  and  extensive  kind.     Catsups 
are  made  of  skins  and  cores  instead  of  the  pure 


species,  the  male  bird  differing  greatly  from 
the  hen  in  that  it  attains  to  twice  the  size,  has 
dark  brown  wings,  and  a  dark  greeny  gold  neck, 
while  the  hen  in  appearance  and  plumage  is 
very  like  a  prairie  hen.  This  bird  must  always 
be  hung  for  a  week  or  so  to  become  tender;  it 
may  then  be  cooked  in  all  the  ways  of  prairie 
chickens. 

CAPERS — Are  a  berry  of  a  plant  cultivated  in 
Europe  and  not  in  America;  are  spoken  of  in 
the  bible  as  "hyssop".  They  are  imported 
here  in  five  sizes:  "Nonpariels",  "Capotes", 
"Capuchins",  "Seconds"  and  "Thirds",  in 
bottles  and  in  bulk,  the  latter  way  being  the 
cheapest  for  hotel  use.  Capers,  however,  are 
often  mixed  by  unscrupulous  dealers  with 
"nasturtium"  berries  which  resemble  them  in 
size  and  appearance.  The  caper  is  only  used 
for  making  sauces,  or  in  garnishing. 

CAPONS — Are  young  fowls  that  have  been  steri- 
lized, secluded  and  fattened,  which  improves 
the  delicacy  and  flavor  of  their  flesh,  and  also 
allows  them  to  grow  to  a  much  larger  size. 
They  are  best  in  the  fall  of  the  year.  The  city 
of  Philadelphia  seems  to  have  got  the  name  of 
producing  the  best,  and  when  placed  on  the 
bill  of  fare,  no  matter  what  part  of  the  country, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


are  generally  designated.    "Philadelphia    Ca- 
pon". 

ROAST  CAPON  STUFFED  WITH  RICE— 
Draw,  singe  and  wash  the  birds,  wiped  dry, 
the  inside  filled  with  rice  that  has  been  boiled 
in  stock;  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg 
and  a  few  herbs;  when  filled,  trussed,  breast 
covered  with  bacon  and  tied  with  string, 
roasted  and  basted;  when  nearly  done,  the 
bacon  removed,  the  breast  browned;  served 
garnished  with  watercress,  and  some  Velout^ 
sauce. 

ROAST  CAPONS  WITH  NOODLES  —  The 
birds  drawn,  singed,  washed  and  trussed,  the 
breast  filled  with  a  savory  stuffing,  bacon  tied 
over  the  breast,  then  roasted;  served  with  some 
boiled  noodles  that  are  mixed  into  Allemande 
sauce,  with  a  little  Parmesan  cheese  at  one 
end,  and  Allemande  sauce  at  the  other. 

BRAISED  CAPON  WITH  CHIPOLATA  GAR- 
NISH—Capons  drawn,  singed,  washed,  wiped, 
larded  on  the  breast,  trussed,  put  in  sauce  pan 
with  vegetables,  herbs  and  spices,  moistened 
half  way  up  with  white  stock  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  covered  with  buttered  paper, 
braised  till  done  and  glazy.  Served  garnished 
with  small  sausages,  blanched  and  peeled  chest- 
nuts, button  mushrooms,  small  glazed  onions 
and  pieces  of  cooked  bacon  all  made  hot  in  a 
good  roast  fowl  gravy. 

BRAISED  CAPONS,  SAUCE  SUPREME  — 
Prepared  and  braised  as  in  the  preceding; 
served  with  Supreme  sauce  poured  around,  and 
decorated  with  strips  of  cooked  tongue  and 
watercress. 

ROAST  CAPON  STUFFED.  GIBLET  SAUCE 
-  -The  birds  prepared,  then  filled  with  a  savory 
stuffing,  trussed,  bacon  tied  over  the  breast, 
roasted  and  basted  till  done,  bacon  then  re- 
moved, and  the  breast  quickly  browned;  served 
with  a  sauce  made  from  the  residue  of  the 
roasting  pan,  with  minced  and  sauteed  giblets 
worked  into  it;  garnished  with  watercress. 

BOILED  CAPON  WITH  SALT  PORK  — The 
capon  prepared  and  the  breast  filled  with 
chicken  forcemeat,  then  trussed,  boiled  in  white 
stock  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork,  served  with  a 
sauce  poured  aiound,  made  from  the  stock  it 
was  boiled  in,  to  which  is  added  chopped  pars- 
ley and  flanked  with  thin  slices  of  pork. 

BRAISED  CAPONS  WITH  TOMATOED 
RICE — The  birds  prepared,  the  breast  cov- 
ered with  bacon,  braised  with  vegetables  and 
spices;  when  done,  taken  up,  and  the  braise 
strained,  skimmed,  and  added  to  a  Veloute 
sauce.  Rice  boiled  in  chicken  stock  till  done, 
drained,  mixed  with  a  tomato  puree;  served 
with  a  small  mold  of  the  rice  turned  out  on  end 
of  dish  with  some  of  the  sauce  poured  around. 

BRAISED  CAPONS  WITH  QUENELLES, 
SAUCE  PERIGUEUX— Prepared  and  braised 
as  in  the  preceding,  the  braise  strained,  skim- 
med, reduced  to  glaze,  then  mixed  into  a  Peri- 


gueux  sauce;  served  with  the  sauce  pourec? 
around,  and  garnished  with  small  quenelles  cr* 
chicken  dipped  into  parsley  sauce. 

BOILED  CAPON,  MUSHROOM  SAUCE  — 
The  birds  drawn,  washed,  singed  and  trussed, 
bacon  tifd  over  the  breast,  boiled  in  white 
stock,  sauce  made  from  the  stock,  some  mush- 
room puree  worked  into  it,  also  some  whole 
button  mushrooms  that  have  been  sauteed  in 
butter;  served  surrounded  with  the  mushrooms 
in  sauce. 

STEWED  CAPON  WITH  VEGETABLES— 
The  birds  'prepared,  then  disjointed  into  por- 
tion pieces,  lightly  fried  in  butter,  then  ar- 
ranged in  a  sautoir  with  slices  of  carrot,  onions 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  moistened  with 
stock  and  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  stewed 
slowly  till  tender;  served  garnished  with  a 
macedoine  of  vegetables  made  hot  in  Madeira 
sauce. 

BOILED  CAPON  WITH  TONGUE  AND 
CAULIFLOWER  — The  birds  prepared  and 
boiled  as  in  Boiled  Capon,  Mushroom  Sauce; 
served  with  a  slice  of  braised  smoked  tongue, 
and  garnished  with  flowerets  of  cauliflower  in 
Bechamel  sauce. 

BOILED  CAPON  WITH  MILANAISE  GAR- 
NISH—  Prepared  and  boiled  as  above,  and 
served  surrounded  with  a  garnish  of  boiled 
macaroni  in  inch  lengths,  with  strips  of  cooked 
tongue,  sliced  mushrooms  and  minced  truffle 
peelings  made  hot  in  a  Velout^  sauce. 

BOILED  STUFFED  CAPON,  CELERY 
SAUCE  —  The  birds  prepared,  then  stufifed 
with  celery,  the  skin  rubbed  with  lemon  juice, 
bacon  tied  over  the  breast,  boiled  in  white 
stock,  sauce  made  from  it,  into  which  is  worked 
strips  of  blanched  celery  about  an  inch  long, 
the  celery  then  simmered  in  the  sauce  till  ten- 
der; served  with  the  sauce  poured  around,  and 
garnished  with  green  celery  tops. 

CAPSICUMS — Are  better  known  as  chillies  or 
peppers;  they  are  of  two  shapes,  the  long  thin 
dark  red,  which  is  used  in  vinegars,  pickles, 
and  to  grind  into  red  pepper;  and  the 
round  green  bell  shaped,  which  is  generally 
stuffed  and  baked,  or  cut  up  into  many  sauces, 
soups  and  garnitures. 

CARAMEL — Is  a  term  used  by  cooks  for  burnt 
sugar  thinned  with  water,  and  used  to  color 
soups,  sauces,  gravies,  syrups,  icecreams,  etc.. 
that  require  a  brown  tint  without  a  pronounced 
flavoring. 

CARBONADE— A  French  term  applied  to  denote 
a  stew  composed  of  cold  meats,  generally  sea- 
soned with  onions  and  garlic,  such  as  carbonade 
of  beef,  mutton,  etc. 

CARAWAY — Name  of  seeds  of  a  wild  plant  used 
in  distilling,  for  cordial  and  cake  flavoring. 

CARDINAL — Name  applied  to  foods,  sauces  and 
drinks,  that  are  colored  a  bright  red. 

CARDOONS— A  vegetable  resembling  sea-kale, 
but  the  stalks  are  feathery.     Plentifully  grown 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


in  Canada;  may  be  treated  the  same  as  sea- 
kale. 

CARMINE  — A  red  coloring  used  for  syrups, 
sauces,  cakes,  etc.,  obtained  from  the  cochineal 
insect;  made  by  bruising  four  ounces  of  coch- 
ineal insects  and  soaking  for  a  few  minutes  in 
three  pints  of  cold  water,  then  put  to  boil  with 
two  ounces  of  common  washing  soda;  when 
boiling,  removed  to  where  it  simmers  only, 
then  slowly  is  added  two  ounces  of  rock  alum, 
then  four  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  boiled  up 
for  two  minutes,  strained,  and  when  cold, 
bottled  for  use. 

CARP— A  fresh  water  fish,  in  season  from  Sep- 
tember to  May;  is  highly  esteemed,  and.its  roe 
is  nearly  equal  to  that  of  the  Shad. 

BAKED  CARP,  SAUCE  MATELOTE— The 
fish  scaled  and  trimmed,  filled  with  savory  stuf- 


eggs,  minced  chives  and  shallots,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg;  sewn  up,  scored, 
rolled  in  oil  paper,  and  slowly  broiled  till  done 
through;  served  with  fines- herbes  sauce  poured 
over  and  garnished  with  Julienne  potatoes. 

FRIED  CARP,  PIQUANTE  SAUCE— The  fish 
scaled,  trimmed,  washed,  dried,  rubbed  with 
lemon  juice,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rolled  in  flour,  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  fried; 
served  with  Piquante  sauce  poured  around, 
garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley,  and  sur- 
rounded with  Parisienne  potatoes. 

BOILED  CARP  ROES,  SAUCE  SUPREME— 
The  roes  washed,  then  steeped  for  an  hour  in 
cold  water  with  vinegar,  slowly  boiled  in  light 
consomm^  with  lemon  juice  in  it;  served  with 
supreme  sauce  poured  over,  and  garnished  with 
potatoes  Anglaise. 


fing,  sewn  up,  scored  into  cutting  portions,  the    FRIED   CARP   ROES,    SAUCE   TART  ARE 


back  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  in  bread 
crumbs,  laid  in  pan,  back  sprinkled  with  melted 
butter,  moistened  with  a  little  red  wine  and 
consomm^,  a  few  slices  of  onions  added,  slowly 
baked  till  done,  taken  up,  the  residue  of  the 
pan  strained  into  a  matelote  sauce,  the  fish 
served  with  it,  and  garnished  with  Duchesse 
potatoes. 

BAKED  CARP,  SAUCE  GENOISE— The  fish 
scaled,  trimmed  and  stuffed  as  above,  sewn  up, 
scored,  baked  in  Genoise  sauce,  served  with  it, 
and  garnished  with  potatoes  Bignonne. 

BRAISED  STUFFED  CARP,  SAUCE  ALLE- 
MANDE— The  fish  scaled,  trimmed,  stuffed 
with  fish  forcemeat,  sewn  up,  the  skin  then 
spread  with  more  forcemeat,  placed  in  a  sail- 
toir  with  vegetables  and  spices,  moistened  with 


The  roes  washed  and  steeped  as  above,  then 
blanched  in  salted  vinegar  water,  taken  out  and 
wiped  dry,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
lemon  juice,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  tartar 
sauce  poured  around,  garnished  with  lemon, 
parsley  and  chip  potatoes. 

SCALLOPED  CARP  ROES  IN  SHELL— The 
roes  cleansed,  steeped  and  blanched,  theu 
boiled  in  salted  vinegar  water  till  done;  taken 
up,  cut  into  dice  with  mushrooms,  put  into  a 
V^loute  sauce  with  a  little  lobster  coral,  then 
filled  into  scallop  shells,  sprinkled  with  bread 
crumbs  and  melted  butter,  baked  and  served. 

PATTIES  OF  CARP  ROES— The  preceding 
mixture  filled  into  patty  shells;  served  with  the 
top  sprinkled  with  lobster  coral,   and  V^lout6 


_  sauce  poured  around. 

fish  stock  an°d  white  wine,  covered  with  buttered   CARP  SAUTfe,  ADMIRAL  SAUCE- The  fish 

a  pound  each  in  weight,  scaled,  trimmed, 
washed,  dried,  scored,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rolled  in  flour,   slowly  fried  in   butter 


paper,  slowly  braised  till  done,  taken  up,  braise 
strained,  skimmed,  and  added  to  an  AUemande 
sauce,  served  with  it,  and  garnished  with  Hol- 
landaise  potatoes. 

BOILED  CARP,  CAPER  SAUCE— The  fish 
scaled  and  trimmed,  either  left  whole,  or  cut 
into  portions,  placed  in  sailtoir  with  an  onion 
stuck  with  cloves  and  a  bunch  of  herbs,  cov- 
ered with  good  beef  gravy  and  a  little  port  wine, 
boiled  slowly  till  done,  sauce  made  from  the 
liquor  it  was  boiled  in;  when  done,  capers  and 
caper  vinegar  added  to  it;  served  with  the  fish, 
garnished  with  Conde  potatoes. 

BROILED  CARP,  LEMON  PARSLEY  BUT- 
TER— The  fish  scaled,  trimmed,  washed,  dried 
and  filleted,  scored  across  the  skin,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  then  dip- 
ped in  olive  oi!,  broiled,  served  with  Miitre 
D'Hotel  butter  poured  over  and  garnished  with 
chip  potatoes,  lemon  and  parsley. 

BROILED  STUFFED  CARP,FINES-HERBES 
SAUCE — Fish  a  pound  each  in  weight,  scaled, 
trimmed  and  washed,  filled  with  a  forcemeat 
made  of  minced  mushrooms,  small  pieces  of 
any  cooked  fish,  chopped  parsley,  hard  boiled 


till  done;  served  surrounded  with  Admiral 
sauce,  garnished  with  parsley,  lemon  and  Vic- 
toria potatoes. 

CARROTS— A  vegetable  that  in  this  country  en- 
ters into  almost  every  soup,  sauce,  ragout,  etc., 
for  its  flavor,  and  in  the  early  summer  when 
new  and  about  two  inches  long,  are  relished  as 
an  accompaniment  to  fresh  boiled  beef.  New 
England  dinner,  etc. 

NEW  CARROTS  IN  CREAM  — The  carrots 
washed  and  scraped,  then  boiled  tender  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  taken  up  and  drained,  then 
simmered  in  reduced  cream  or  thin  cream 
sauce;  served  as  a  vegetable. 

SAUT£  of  NEW  CARROTS— Washed,  scraped 
and  boiled  as  above,  then  saut^ed  in  butter, 
taken  up,  and  mixed  into  Mllitre  D'Hotel  but- 
ter; served  as  a  garnish. 

BRAISED  NEW  CARROTS,  PARSLEY 
SAUCE  —  The  carrots  washed  and  scraped, 
then  braised  in  consomm^  to  a  glaze,  taken  up; 
served  on  small  platters  with  some  parsley 
sauce  at  the  end,  as  a  vegetable. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


GLAZED  NEW  CARROTS  WITH  BUTTER 
— Prepared  and  glazed  as  in  the  preceding, 
taken  up,  dipped  in  melted  butter  and  used  as 
a  garnish. 

NEW  CARROTS  IN  BROWN  GRAVY  — 
Glazed  as  above,  taken  up,  put  into  a  rich 
brown  gravy;  served  as  a  garnish  sprinkled 
with  parsley,  or  as  a  vegetable. 

STEWED  CARROTS  WITH  GREEN  PEAS— 
New  carrots  cored  with  a  column  cutter,  then 
cut  in  thin  slices,  stewed  in  consomm^  till 
tender;  green  peas  boiled  in  salted  water  with 
a  bunch  of  fresh  mint,  strained  off  when  done, 
and  mixed  with  the  carrots;  served  as  a  vege- 
table. 

NEW  CARROTS  IN  POULETTE  SAUCE— 
Washed  and  scraped,  then  boiled  in  boiling 
salted  water  till  tender,  drained  off  and  then 
mixed  into  Poulette  sauce  and  served  as  a 
vegetable. 

CURRIED  CARROTS  WITH  RICE— Vegetar- 
ian entree — The  carrots  prepared  and  cooked 
(as  in  Braised  New  Carrots,  Parsley  Sauce), 
then  taken  up  and  mixed  into  a  good  curry 
sauce  made  of  cream;  served  in  the  center  of  a 
border  of  dry  boiled  rice. 

CARROT  SALAD  WITH  ASPARAGUS  TIPS 
— The  carrots  glazed  and  when  cold  the  tips 
dipped  into  Ravigote  sauce,  arranged  alter- 
nately on  dish  with  points  of  asparagus  sprink- 
led with  Vinaigrette  sauce,  and  garnished  with 
shred  lettuce. 

CARROT  SOUP— Plenty  of  carrots  with  a  few 
soup  vegetables  boiled  in  stock  with  a  piece  of 
corned  beef;  when  meat  is  done,  taken  up,  the 
soup  then  made  thick  with  roux,  then  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve,  boiled  up  again,  seasoned 
and  skimmed;  served  with  croutons,  (called, 
PURfiE  CRECY). 

CARVING— To  carve  a  LOIN  OF  MUTTON 
OR  VEAL,  begin  at  the  small  end  and  cut 
between  the  ribs.  A  FILLET  OF  VEAL 
should  be  cut  first  from  the  top,  and  in  a 
BREAST  OF  VEAL,  the  breast  and  brisket 
should  first  be  separated,  then  cut  across.  A 
SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF  should  be  placed  with 
the  tenderloin  down,  thin  cut  slices  should  be 
cut  from  the  side  next  the  carver,  then  turn 
over  the  roast  and  carve  from  underneath;  a 
slice  of  both  should  be  served.  In  restaurants 
the  -sirloin  is  generally  all  used  up  in  Porter- 
house steaks.  A  RIB  ROAST  should  be  put 
on  the  carving  table  thick  end  down  and  stand- 
ing upright,  the  first  two  ribs  cut  off  to  be  used 
for  well  done  orders,  the  chine  removed,  and 
broad  level  thin  slices  served,  with  gravy 
poured  under.  SHORT  RIBS  should  be 
served  with  the  bone  left  in.  A  LEG  OF 
MUTTON  should  be  carved  across  the  middle 
of  the  bone  first  and  then  from  the  thickest 
part  till  the  gristle  is  reached.  A  few  nice 
slices  can  be  cut  from  the  smaller  end,  but  it 
is  usually  hard  and  stringy.     A  HAM  can  be 


served  in  several  ways:  by  cutting  long  delicate 
slices  through  the  thick  fat  down  to  the  bone; 
by  running  the  point  of  the  knife  in  a  circle  in 
the  middle  and  cutting  thin  circular  slices, 
thus  keeping  the  ham  moist;  or,  by  beginning 
at  the  knuckle  end  and  slicing  upwards;  the 
latter  is  the  most  economical.  A  TONGUE 
should  be  carved  in  very  thin  slices,  its  delicacy 
depending  upon  this;  the  slices  from  the  center 
are  considered  the  most  tempting,  and  should 
be  cut  across  and  the  slices  taken  from  both 
sides  with  a  portion  of  the  fat  from  the  root. 
In  carving  FISH,  practice  is  required  in  order 
to  prevent  the  flakes  from  breaking;  the  choic- 
est morsels  of  all  large  fish  are  near  the  head, 
the  thin  parts  come  next;  the  flavor  nearest 
the  bone  is  never  equal  to  that  on  the  upper 
part;  a  fish  knife  should  always  be  used. 
FOWLS  should  be  placed  breast  up,  the  fork 
put  into  the  breast  to  steady  the  bird,  then  cut 
off  the  wings  and  legs,  cut  out  the  breast  bone 
so  as  to  leave  a  well  browned  skin  over  it  and 
the  white  meat,  cut  off  the  side  bones  and  di- 
vide what  is  left  in  two  from  the  neck  down, 
remove  the  second  joint  from  the  leg  and  wing. 
TENDERLOINS  should  have  the  tip  cut  off 
and  then  cut  in  medium  thick  slices  across. 
HEARTS  should  be  cut  wedge  shaped  with 
some  of  the  dressing.  FOREQUARTERS 
OF  LAMB  should  have  the  shoulder  lifted  off, 
and  a  slice  of  the  shoulder  and  rib  served  to- 
gether. GOOSE  should  be  carved  lengthwise 
of  the  breast  from  the  point  downwards. 
DUCKLINGS  should  simply  be  cut  into  four 
quarters.  DUCKS  carved  same  as  goose. 
PARTRIDGE  and  PHEASANTS  same  as  fowls 
if  large;  if  small  partridge,  split  lengthwise  in 
three,  removing  the  backbone  of  the  center  cut. 
SQUABS,  PLOVERS  and  QUAIL  split  length- 
wise in  halves.     All  SMALL  GAME  left  whole. 

CASSEROLE — French  name  for  a  saucepan.  It 
is  also  the  name  of  a  metal  or  earthenware 
tureen  with  a  flat  bottom,  fitted  with  lid  and 
handles.  Various  entrees  are  cooked  and 
served  "en  casserole",  thus  forming  a  pot  roast 
or  kind  of  braise. 

CASSOLETTE— Are  small  cups  formed  of  rice 
croquette  mixture  either  sweet  or  savory;  when 
formed,  either  rolled  in  flour  only,  or  else 
breaded  and  fried;  made  to  hold  entries,  jel- 
lies, fruits,  etc. 

CASSIA— Is  the  name  of  a  small  tree  which 
yields  a  bark  that  has  less  aroma,  but  is  hard 
otherwise  to  detect  from  cinnamon;  it  is  ground 
and  made  into  oils  and  extracts,  and  passed  off 
for  cinnamon  generally  without  detection. 

CATFISH — Are  of  two  kinds  or  main  varieties, 
the  "sea  catfish"  and  "river  catfish".  Both 
are  good  for  food,  yet  they  are  not  of  the  same 
species.  They  are  seldom,  if  ever,  put  on 
hotel  bills  of  fare  other  than  as  "Fried  catfish", 
"Catfish  saut^",  "Braised  catfish  with  toma- 
toes", etc.,  eras  "Catfish  chowder". 


^o  THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 

BOILED  CAULIFLOWER,    HOLLANDAISE       in  cans;  it  is  considered  by  epicuies  to  be  one 
SAUCE— The    cauliflower    trimmed,    laid    in       of  the  finest  of  appetizers, 
salted  water  for  an  hour,  then  boiled  in  salted   CAVIAR  ON   TOAST   WITH    OLIVES  —  One 


boiling  water  with  a  dash  of  vinegar  in  it  till 
tender,    taken   up  and   drained;    served   with 
HoUandaise  sauce  poured  around;  may  also  be 
served  this  way  with  tomato  sauce. 
STEWED    CAULIFLOWER— The  cauliflower 


part  each  of  Russian  caviar,  soft  bread  crumbs, 
and  blanched  and  peeled  Jordan  almonds  mixed 
together  and  minced  into  a  paste,  spread  on 
strips  of  toast,  the  edges  garnished  with  slices 
of  stoned  olives. 


prepared  and  boiled  as  above,   then  taken  up   CAVIAR^  TARTmES-Russi^an   caviar^spre^a^^ 
and  sectioned,  arranged  in  a  sautoir,  covered  '       '' 

with  butter  sauce  and  simmered;  served  as  a 

BlSS'^CAULIFLOWER-Stewed   as   in   the   CANAPES  OF  CAVIAR-Circles  of  toast 
preceding,  then  placed  into  baking  dish,  cov 
ered  with  bread  crumbs  and   grated   cheese 


sprinkled  with  butter  and  baked. 
SCALLOPED  CAULIFLOWER— Same  as  the 
preceding,  but  filled  into  scallop  shells  instead 
of  baking  dish;  served  in  the  shells. 
FRIED       CAULIFLOWER,       ALLEMANDE 
SAUCE — The  stewed  cauliflower  above,  taken 
up,  dipped  into  batter  and  fried;  served  with 
AUemande  sauce  poured  around. 
CAULIFLOWER     WITH     MAYONNAISE  — 
Cold  boiled  cauliflower  in  flowerets,  marinaded 
in  French  dressmg,  arranged  on  a  leaf  of  let- 
tuce around  the  dish,  with  mayonnaise  in  the 
center. 
CAULIFLOWER    SALAD— Cold  boiled  cauli- 
flowerets  covered  with  cream  salad  dressing, 
arranged  in  center  of  dish,  garnished  with  small 
balls  of  beets. 
PUR£E  OF   CAULIFLOWER— One-third  V^- 
loute  sauce,  one-third  chicken  stock,  mixed  and 
brought  to  the  boil,  minced  cauliflower  stalks 
and  roots  boiled  in  it  till  tender  with  a  little 
thyme  and  parsley;  when  done,  rubbed  through 
a  fine  sieve,  brought  to  the  boil  again  and  one- 
third  of  the  whole  of  cream  sauce  then  added; 
served  with  crofltons. 
CREAM    OF    CAULIFLOWER— Same  as   the 
preceding,  but  when  finished,  very  small  flow- 
erets added  before  serving. 
CAULIFLOWER  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter 
sauce  is  worked  some  very  small  flowerets  of 
boiled  cauliflower  with  a  little  pur^e,  (good  for 
boiled  poultry). 
PICKLED      CAULIFLOWER  —  Cauliflowers 
boiled   till   tender  in  flowerets,    then  put  into 
jars,   and  covered  with  the   following   pickle: 
One  pound  of  dry   mustard  mixed  with  one 
ounce  of  turmeric,  then  moistened  with  vinegar. 
One  gallon  of  vinegar  brought  to  the  boil,   the 
mustard  and   turmeric   paste  stirred   into   it, 
brought  to  the  simmer  and  when  beginning  to 
thicken,  one  pound  of  sugar,  half  a  pint  of  olive 
oil,   and   two  ounces  of  mustard  seed  succes- 
sively added  to  it,  simmered  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  poured  boiling  hot  over  the  cauliflowers 
in  the  jars. 
CAVIAR — Is  a  preparation  made  from  the  roes 
of  sturgeon,  can  be  bought  at  the  grocery  stores 


on  toast,  and  the  edges  decorated  with  finely 

chopped   green   gherkins,    parsley    and    sweet 

peppers  mixed  together. 

the 

edges  spread  with  anchovy  paste,  with  an  onion 

ring   as   its  base,    the  ring  filled  with  Russian 

caviar. 
EGGS  STUFFED  WITH  CAVIAR— Cut  slices 

of  hard  boiled   eggs,    the  yolks  removed,    its 

place  filled  with  Russian  caviar;  served  on  thin 

slices  of  buttered  brown  bread. 
CAVIAR  WITH  EGG— Slices  of  toast,  the  edges 

piped     with    beaten    whites    of    eggs,    caviar 

sprinkled  on  top,  whole  yolk  of  raw  egg  dropped 

in  the  center,  baked  till  set,  and  served  hot. 
CAVIAR     CROUSTADES— Very    small    paste 

croustades  half  an  inch  deep  filled  with  caviar. 

on  it  placed  a  freshly  opened  blue  point  oyster; 

served  garnished  with  lemon  and  watercress. 
CELERY — Is  an  aromatic  plant  cultivated  largely 

as  a  flavoring  vegetable  and  for  uses  of  salads. 
It  is  generally  sent  to  table  in  a  raw  condition, 
is  the  one  and  proper  thing  to  eat  with  "canvas 
back  duck".  Kalamazoo,  Michigan,  is  the 
great  celery  raising  spot  in  this  country.  When 
the  celery  industry  was  started  in  Kalamazoo, 
it  was  not  for  several  years  that  the  enterpris- 
ing pioneers  in  this  industry  discovered  that 
the  thousands  of  acres  of  river  bottom  lands 
surroundmg  the  city  were  especially  adapted 
in  the  raising  of  celery  to  the  pinnacle  of  es- 
teem and  popular  favor  it  cow  holds.  Visitors 
to  Kalamazoo  ate  it,  and  carried  away  marve- 
lous tales  of  its  delicacy,  orders  to  purchase 
and  forward  were  sent  back  to  friends  and  ex- 
press agents,  and  the  industry  that  was  destined 
to  make  Kalamazoo  famous  as  the  celery  city 
was  born.  At  the  present  time  there  are  thous- 
ands of  acres  under  cultivation,  and  celery 
finds  its  way  from  Kalamazoo  to  every  part  of 
the  United  States  and  special  shipments  have 
been  sent  by  steamer  to  Liverpool  and  London. 
In  raising  celery  the  seed  is  firht  sown  during 
the  winter  months  in  specially  prepared  hot 
houses,  of  which  there  are  acres  under  glass, 
the  plants  are  transplanted,  thinned  out,  and 
about  the  first  of  May  are  again  transplanted 
to  the  fields,  bemg  planted  in  specially  prepared 
trenches  in  double  rows.  There  it  is  carefully 
looked  after,  cultivated  and  irrigated,  and  when 
of  the  proper  size,  the  rich  black  soil  is  drawn 
up  around  the  plants  from  both  sides,  until  it 
forms  a  bank  reaching  nearly  to  the  top  of  the 
leaves.     About  fourteen  days  is  required  for 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


the  plant  to  acquire  that  silvery  whiteness  and 
delicate  crispness  so  enjoyed  by  every  lover  of 
celery.  The  shipping  season  then  commences, 
and  celery  is  taken  from  the  fields  to  the  pack- 
ing rooms,  carefully  washed  and  tied  in  bunches 
of  twelve  heads  each,  packed  and  delivered  to 
the  express  company  for  shipment.  The  fall 
crop,  which  is  abundant  later,  is  taken  from 
the  fields  about  the  first  of  November,  and  is 
placed  in  specially  constructed  houses  for  pre- 
servation during  the  cold  weather  months.  The 
season  usually  commences  about  the  first  of 
July  and  closes  about  February.  From  its 
start  as  the  appetizer,  in  front  of  a  good  dinner, 
its  rare  beauty  as  a  table  ornament,  etc.,  the 
rise  of  celery  to  popular  appreciation  was  rapid. 
The  use  of  celery  and  its  adaptability  in  the 
preparation  of  table  condiments  is  well  seen  on 
the  grocers'  shelves.  There  is  canned  celery 
for  cooking  only;  chopped  celery  put  up  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  retain  its  crispness  and  good 
quality  for  use  at  any  time  in  the  preparation 
of  salads;  celery  pickles,  celery  mustard,  celery 
salt,  celery  pepper,  celery  extracts  and  tonic, 
in  fact  everything  that  can  be  manufactured 
from  it  in  any  way.  Chopped  and  canned 
celery  are  especially  adapted  to  the  wants  of 
the  "Chef"  as  they  are  always  ready  at  any 
season  of  the  year,  and  particularly  useful  are 
they  at  the  season  when  good  celery  is  not  ob- 
tainable. There  is  also  manufactured  a  pre- 
pared salad  ready  for  the  table,  whose  flavor 
and  excellence  is  as  surprising  as  it  is  delicious. 

CREAM  OF  CELERY— Into  a  good  veal  or 
chicken  stock  is  put  a  knuckle  of  ham,  a  few 
onions,  plenty  of  outside  stalks  of  celery,  and  a 
few  blades  of  mace;  boiled  till  celery  is  soft, 
ham  then  taken  out  and  the  soup  thickened 
with  roux  and  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve, 
boiled  up  again  with  the  addition  of  an  equal 
quantity  of  Bechamel  sauce,  seasoned  and 
served  (also  called  puree). 

PURfeE  OF  CELERY  AND  ONIONS  — Same 
as  the  preceding,  but  using  a  puree  of  onions 
or  sauce  soubise  to  add  with  the  celery  pur^e, 
instead  of  Bechamel. 

CELERY  CONSOMM6— The  vegetables  in  the 
consomme  stock  composed  mostly  of  celery,  to 
give  it  a  pronounced  flavor;  when  strained  and 
skimmed.  Julienne  strips  of  boiled  celery  added 
to  it,  seasoned  and  served. 

STEWED  CELERY  ON  TOAST— Celery  stalks 
all  cut  about  the  same  size  like  asparagus, 
boiled  tender  in  salted  water,  taken  up  and 
arranged  in  a  sailtoir,  moistened  with  Velout^ 
sauce,  simmered;  served  with  one  end  resting 
on  toast,  with  some  of  the  sauce  poured  over 
the  ends. 

CELERY  PATTIES— The  hearts  of  eight  heads 
of  celery  boiled  till  tender,  drained,  then 
pounded  to  a  paste  with  a  cupful  each  of  grated 
ham,  cream,  and  fine  bread  crumbs,  seasoned 


with  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  butter,  the  mix- 
ture steamed  till  it  thickens,  then  filled  into 
patty  cases  and  served  hot. 

BAKED  CELERY  WITH  CHEESE— The  cel- 
ery cut  into  inch  lengths  like  macaroni,  boiled 
in  salted  water  till  tender,  drained,  mixed  with 
a  little  grated  ham  and  chopped  green  celery 
leaves,  arranged  in  layers  in  baking  dish,  each 
layer  sprinkled  with  grated  cheese;  when  full, 
moistened  with  Velout^  sauce,  sprinkled  with 
grated  bread  crumbs  mixed  with  cheese,  then 
with  melted  butter  and  baked. 

CELERY  WITH  MARROW— The  stewed  cel- 
ery (as  in  Slewed  Celery  on  Toast)  served  on 
toast  spread  with  marrow;  served  garnished 
with  slices  of  cooked  marrow. 

FRIED  CELERY.  SAUCE  VILLEROI— Three- 
inch  lengths  of  celery  stalk  boiled  not  quite 
done  in  salted  water,  drained,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  breaded  and  fiied;  served  with 
Villeroi  sauce  poured  around. 

BOILED  CELERY  WITH  ONIONS  —  Stalks 
of  celery  about  three  inches  long,  small  onions 
of  an  even  size,  both  boiled  together  in  veal 
stock  till  tender;  served,  the  celery  on  toast 
masked  with  Bechamel  sauce,  garnished  with 
onions. 

CELERY  FRITTERS  —  Celery  stalks  three 
inches  long,  tied  in  bundles  three  stalks  thick, 
boiled  till  tender  in  salted  water,  taken  up  and 
drained,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  Par- 
mesan cheese,  string  removed,  dipped  in  batter 
and  fried;  served  as  a  vegetable. 

BRAISED  CELERY  ON  TOAST— Celery  stalks 
all  of  an  even  size,  boiled  not  quite  done  in 
salted  water,  then  arranged  in  a  sautoir,  and 
moistened  with  strong  chicken  stock  and  a 
piece  of  glaze,  stewed  down  rich;  served  on 
toast  with  the  glaze  poured  over  it. 

CELERY  SAUTfi— Celery  stalks  of  an  even  size, 
blanched,  then  arranged  in  a  sailtoir  with  some 
bacon  trimmings  and  a  minced  shallot,  heated 
thoroughly,  then  moistened  with  equal  parts  of 
tomato  and  Espagnole  sauces,  simmered  till 
done;  served  on  toast  with  the  sauce  poured 
over. 

MAYONNAISE  OF  CELERY— The  tender  parts 
only  should  be  used  by  cutting  them  into  pencil 
strips  an  inch  long,  washing  thoroughly,  then 
drained  and  mixed  with  mayonnaise;  served  on 
a  leaf  of  lettuce. 

CELERIAC--A  form  of  celery  with  a  bulbous 
root,  used  as  a  salad  and  for  flavoring,  but  little 
used  in  hotel  work. 

CEPES— A  strongly  flavored  flat  headed  mush- 
room, imported  in  cans,  preserved  in  olive  oil. 

SAUTfe  OF  CEPES  ON  TOAST  — Drained 
from  their  oil,  lightly  fried  in  pan,  when  thor- 
oughly heated,  sprinkled  with  lemon  juice  and 
chopped  parsley,  arranged  on  toast,  and  served 
very  hot. 

STEWED  CEPES  ON  TOAST— The  c&pes 
drained  from  their  oil  and  then  cut  in  slices, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


arranged  in  a  safltoir  with  chopped  parsley; 
mincea  onions  and  garlic,  moistened  with  Es- 
pagnole  sauce,  simmered;  served  on  toast  with 
sauce  around. 

BROILED  CEPES  ON  TOAST— Drained  from 
their  oil,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled 
in  fresh  bread  crumbs,  broiled;  served  on  toast 
with  Miitre  D'Hotel  butter  poured  over  them, 
and  garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

OMELET  WITH  CEPES— The  cfepes  drained, 
cut  in  slices,  fried  in  butter  with  a  crushed 
clove  of  garlic,  taken  up  and  mixed  with  a  little 
Colbert  sauce;  served  enclosed  in  a  savory 
omelet,  with  more  of  the  c^pes  in  sauce  poured 
around. 

CERCELLES  —  The  French  name  sometimes 
seen  on  bills  of  fare  for  "Teal". 

CERVELAS— The  French  name  for  a  highly 
spiced  small  sausage  of  the  bologna  order;  can 
be  purchased  at  the  Italian  and  Delicatessen 
stores. 

CERE  ALINE— A  white  flaky  pudding  material 
prepared  from  Indian  corn;  also  boiled  plain 
and  eaten  with  cream  as  a  breakfast  cereal; 
made  into  puddings  according  to  the  various 
recipes  of  the  vendors,  printed  on  the  sides  of 
the  packets  in  which  it  is  sold. 

CERVELLES — French  name  for  animal  brains, 
for  recipes,  see  "brains". 

CHABLIS — The  name  of  a  white  French  wine, 
principally  used  for  cooking  purposes,  but  some 
of  the  brands  of  the  genuine  article  are  highly 
prized  for  their  digestive  and  health  giving 
qualities,  such  as  Montrachet,  Clos,  Blanchot 
and  Moutonne. 

CHAFING  DISH— A  vessel  heated  from  the 
underneath  by  a  spirit  lamp,  also  by  electricity; 
is  used  for  keeping  and  serving  foods  hot,  or 
cooking  on  the  table;  for  recipes,  see  "Chafing 
Dish  Cookery"  in  the  "CHEF'S  REMINDER". 

CHAMPAGNE — A  wine  prepared  from  grapes; 
the  best  varieties  are  manufactured  at  Epernay, 
Rbeims  and  Mareuil  in  France,  but  the  vin- 
tages of  each  year  are  vastly  different,  and 
sometimes  the  grape  crop  is  a  dismal  failure. 
Hence  champagne  drinkers  in  Europe  and 
Great  Britain  are  versed  on  the  merits  and  de- 
merits of  the  various  vintages.  While  in  the 
United  States,  but  very  little  attention  has  thus 
far  been  paid  to  the  matter;  the  following  clip- 
ping from  the  Hotel  World  of  London,  Eng- 
land, will  doubtless  be  of  interest: 
Yield  In 

Tear     gallons  Character  of  tbe  wines 

1891       8,643,292    Passable,  but  very  dear. 

1890       6,673.tS&6    Ordinary  quality, 

1889       6,109.994    Very  Kood,  price  excessively  high. 

1888       4,689.098    Passable. 

18-7      10,409.278    Fairly  good,  light. 

1886  6,526,898  Some  good  wines  with  abundance  of  Tin- 
oeity;  but  fur  tbe  most  part  the  vintage 
is  under  suspicion,  which  time  has  not  so 
far  lessened 

1886       8,199.070    Mediocre,  resembling  the  1883's. 

1884  11,528,946  Fine  elegant  wines,  highly  prized  by  con- 
noisseurs. 

1883       9.061.460    Mediocre  and  dear;  acid. 

1882       7,068  5<J8    Mediocre;  acid;  immature. 

1881     14,627,140    Passable. 


1880  2,423,236  Yery  good:  lighter  than  the  1874's,  exces- 
sively dear. 

1879      2  008.776    Complete  failure,  yield  small,  fortunately. 

1878      n.89!J.546    Good:  ilne;  light. 

1877     10,407.694    Mediocre;  acid. 

1876     IB.  120.786    Mediocre. 

1876     21.710,346    Passable. 

1874  8,178,644  Very  line,  both  as  to  vinoslty  and  color, 
has  been  greatly  sought  after. 

1873       1,138,718    Bad;  acid,  and  notwithstanding  that,  dear. 

1872       4.480,960    Fairly  good. 

1871       6,4t>a,306    Medlccre. 

1870       4960.010    Good. 

1869       8.542.886    Passable. 

1868  12,316,700  Very  good,  elegant,  and  lighter  than  the 
1865-8. 

1867       3.889.356    Mediocre. 

1866     19.449.870    Bad 

1865     14,314,542    Wine  of  superior  quality ;  very  vinous. 

CHANTILLY— Is  the  title  given  by  confectioners 
to  a  form  of  basket  made  of  cakes,  choux  paste, 
candied  peels,  almond  paste,  etc.,  filled  with 
whipped  cream.  Chantilly  cream  is  simply 
whipped  cream. 

CHANTILLY  SOUP— Fresh  green  peas,  a  bunch 
of  fresh  mint,  some  green  onion  tops  and  a 
piece  of  salt  pork  boiled  together  in  good  chick- 
en stock;  when  done  the  pork  removed,  the 
stock  thickened  with  roux,  then  rubbed  through 
a  sieve,  the  pur^e  boiled  up  again  and  seasoned; 
served  with  crofltons. 

CHARCOAL— One  of  the  kitchen  essentials  for 
good  broiling,  should  be  kept  dry  in  a  good 
cellar;  often  times  bought  by  the  load,  the  load 
presumed  to  contain  so  many  bushels;  when 
happening  to  be  delivered  as  many  things  are 
in  bulk,  during  the  steward's  absence,  the  fol- 
lowing capacities  of  cribs  and  boxes  for  pota- 
toes and  other  root  vegetables,  coal,  charcoal, 
etc.,  will  be  found  reliable  and  useful: 
[The    United     States    standard    (Winchester) 

bushel,    iSj^    inches  in  diameter,   and  8  inches 

deep,  contains  2150.42  cubic  inches.] 
One  cubic  foot  equals  four-fifths  of  a  bushel. 
A  box  3x3x3     —     27  cubic  feet  and  holds  21  3/5 boshels 

A  box  5x3x2      —      30      "         24 

A  box  5x.<x3      —      45      "         "       "        "        36  " 

A  box  5x3x4      —      60      "         "       "        "        48 


A  box  7x.')x3.9  — 131H 
A  box  7x7x7  —  343 
A  box  8x8x8  —  512 
A  box  10x10x10— 


104  1/3 
274  2/5 

409  a/5 
8U0 


CHARLOTTE— Is  the  name  given  to  what  might 
be  called  a  shell  of  bread,  cake,  lady  fingers, 
etc.,  cut  to  fit  into  a  mold  or  pan,  which  is  then 
filled  with  fruits,  creams,  custards,  etc. 

CHARTREUSE— Is  the  name  of  a  liqueur  made 
in  three  colors,  green,  yellow  and  white;  origi- 
nally made  by  the  monks  of  a  French  monastery 
at  Dauphine,  in  the  Alps  mountains.  There 
are,  however,  dishes  dedicated  to  these  monks, 
called  "chartreuses";  they  are  made  of  various 
rich  foods,  such  as  prairie  hens,  fish,  partridges, 
larks,  snipe,  squabs,  chickens,  fruits,  etc.,  en- 
closed in  a  mold  or  shell  of  a  much  more  com- 
mon material,  bein(7  a  disguise,  inasmuch  as 
the  monks  were  under  severe  dicipline,  and 
were  supposed  to  be  very  frugal.  Recipes  for 
chartreuses  will  be  found  under  the  respective 
food  which  demands  it. 

CHASSEUR— Is  the  French  word  for  "hunter"; 
it  la  Chasseur  means    hunter's    style,    sauce 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


43 


Chasseur,  hunter's  sauce,  made  from  the  pro- 
ceeds of  the  hunt. 

CHATEAUBRIAND— Is  the  name  given  to  a 
style  of  cooking  a  tenderloin  steak  between  two 
others  of  inferior  cuts  and  then  pressing  the 
juice  of  the  two  outside  ones  over  the  fillet. 
But  some  cooks  simply  take  a  fillet  steak,  split, 
stuff  and  broil  it,  serve  it  with  a  Miitre  D'Hotel 
butter  mixed  with  beef  glaze,  and  call  that 
"Chateaubriand".  History  says  the  first  is 
right. 

CHAUDFROID— Literally  means  hot-cold,  and 
is  applied  to  dishes  that  are  prepared  hot,  then 
made  into  a  form  more  suitable  to  eat  cold, 
such  as  chaudfroid  of  game,  fowl,  partridge, 
woodcocks,  larks,  reedbirds,  pheasants,  plovers, 
quail  and  turkey,  for  recipes  of  which  see  the 
sub-heading  of  the  articles  mentioned. 

CHEESE— A  most  nutritious  food,  forming  many 
excellent  dishes;  it  is  of  various  kinds,  of  which 
the  following  are  to  be  found  in  good  hotels: 
Skim,  cream,  full  cream,  cheddar,  stilton, 
roquefort,  camembert,  brie,  neufchatel,  par- 
mesan,  edam,  gorgonzola,  gruyere,  port-du- 
salut,  sage,  sap-sago,  and  sometimes  on  the  bar 
and  in  German  clubs  may  be  found  Limburger, 
to  describe  which  the  following  story  will  aid 
without  further  comment: 

LIMBDRGEK  CHKE8B.— Ma  sent  me  to  pay  a  bill  at  the 
grocers  last  Saturday.  The  boss  behind  the  counter  made 
me  a  present  of  something  wrapped  in  a  piece  of  silver 
paper,  which  he  told  me  was  a  piece  of  Limburger  cheese. 
When  I  got  outside  the  shop  I  opened  the  paper,  and  when 
I  smelt  what  was  inside  I  felt  tired,  I  took  it  borne  and  put 
It  In  the  coal  shed.  In  the  morning  I  went  to  It  again.  It 
was  still  there.  Nobody  had  taken  it.  I  wondered  what  I 
could  do  with  it.  Father  and  motber  were  getting  ready  to 
go  to  church.  1  put  a  piece  in  the  back  pocket  of  father's 
pants,  and  another  piece  In  the  lining  of  ma's  mutr.  I 
walked  behind  when  we  started  for  church.  It  was  begin- 
ning to  get  warm.  When  we  got  in  church,  father  looked 
anxious  and  mother  looked  as  if  something  had  happened- 
After  the  first  hymn,  mother  told  father  not  to  sing  againi 
but  to  keep  his  mouth  shut,  and  breathe  through  his  nose. 
After  the  prayer,  prespiratlon  stood  on  father's  face,  and 
the  people  in  the  next  pew  to  ours  got  up  and  went  out. 
After  the  next  hymn  father  whispered  to  mother  that  he 
thought  she  had  better  go  out  and  air  herself.  After  the 
second  lesson,  some  of  the  church  wardens  came  round  to 
see  If  there  were  any  stray  rats  in  the  church.  Some  more 
people  near  our  pew  got  up  and  went  out,  putting  their 
handkerchiefs  to  their  noses  as  they  went.  The  parson 
said  they  had  better  close  the  service,  and  hold  a  meeting 
outside  to  discuss  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  church. 
Father  told  mother  they  had  better  go  home  one  at  a  time. 
Mother  told  father  to  go  the  nearest  way  home  and  disinfect 
himself  before  she  came.  When  they  got  home,  they  both 
went  into  the  front  room,  but  did  not  speak  for  some  time. 
Mother  spoke  first,  and  told  father  to  put  the  cat  out  of  the 
room,  as  she  thought  it  was  going  to  be  sick.  It  was  sick 
before  father  could  get  it  out.  Mother  then  turned  round, 
and  noticed  that  the  canary  was  dead.  Mother  told  father 
not  to  sit  so  near  to  the  fire,  as  it  made  matters  woi:se. 
Father  told  mother  to  go  and  smother  herself.  Mother  said 
she  thought  she  was  smothered  already.  Just  then  the 
servant  came  in.  and  asked  If  she  should  open  the  windows, 
as  the  room  felt  very  close.  Father  went  upstairs  and 
changed  his  clothes,  and  had  a  hot  bath.  Mother  took 
father's  clothes  and  offered  them  to  a  tramp,  who  said, 
"Thanks,  kind  lady,  tliey  are  a  bit  too  high  for  me." 
Mother  threw  them  over  the  back  fence  Into  the  canal. 
Father  was  summoned  afterwards  for  poisoning  the  fish. 
Mother  went  to  bed.  Father  asked  her  If  she  had  been 
fumigated.    Just  then  father  had  a  note  sent  liim.    Father 


came  to  wish  me  "Good  Night"  at  10  o'clock  In  the  evening, 

with  a  note  In  one  hand  and  a  razor  strop  in  the  other.    I 

got  under  the  l>ed.    The  people  next  door  thought  we  were 

l>eattng  carpets  in  the  bouse.    I  cannot  sit  down  comfortably 

yet.    1  have  given  my  little  sister  what  I  had  left  of  that 

Liimbui^er  chee^ie.    I  thought  it  a  pity  to  waste  it. 

WELSH  RAREBIT— A  little  butter  placed  in  a 
small  shallow  sailtoir;  when  melted,  finely  cut 
cheese  added  to  it,  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pep- 
per, dry  mustard  and  Worcestershire  sauce 
as  it  begins  to  melt,  ale  added  till  it  becomes 
of  a  creamy  nature;  a  hot  dish  with  slices  of 
hoi  toast,  the  cheese  poured  over  it  and  served. 

GOLDEN  BUCK  — Is  the  preceding  with  a 
poached  egg  on  top. 

YORKSHIRE  RAREBIT— Is  a  Golden  Buck 
with  a  strip  of  broiled  bacon  on  each  side  of 
the  egg. 

OLD  FASHIONED  YORKSHIRE  BUCK  — A 
slice  of  bread  half  inch  thick  thinly  spread  with 
mustard,  placed  in  hot  oven  till  brown,  moist- 
ened with  half  a  glass  of  ale,  covered  with  a 
slice  of  cheese  quarter  inch  thick,  two  thin 
slices  of  bacon  placed  on  the  cheese,  returned 
to  oven  and  cooked  till  the  cheese  is  melted 
and  the  bacon  done;  served  very  hot. 

COTTAGE  CHEESE— A  good  way  to  use  up 
sour  milk;  let  the  milk  sour  to  clotness,  boiling 
water  then  poured  to  it,  stirred,  turned  into  a 
colander,  little  cold  water  poured  over  it,  salt 
added  and  again  stirred,  then  placed  into  a 
muslin  bag  and  drained  dry;  served  either  plain 
or  mixed  with  cream.  Sometimes  a  little  cream 
and  finely  chopped  chives  are  added  to  it  before 
serving,  especially  for  the  bar  lunch. 

CHEESE  SCALLOPS— Individual  patty  pans 
buttered,  then  lined  with  slices  of  cheese,  an 
egg  then  broke  into  the  center,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  a  table-spoonful  of  milk  or  cream 
poured  over  the  egg,  then  dredged  with  grated 
cheese  and  slowly  baked  for  twenty  minutes, 
turned  out  and  served  on  dry  or  fried  toast. 

CHEESE  STRAWS— One  pound  of  flour,  three- 
quarter  pound  of  grated  cheese,  four  raw  yolks 
of  eggs,  seasoned  with  salt  and  red  pepper, 
made  into  a  paste,  rolled  out  thin,  cut  into 
strips  and  baked  a  straw  color. 

CHEESE  SAVORIES— Water  crackers  split, 
and  the  open  side  thinly  spread  with  anchovy 
butter;  then,  with  a  paste  made  of  two  parts 
of  roquefort  cheese  to  one  part  of  butter,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  red  pepper  and  a  dash  of  sherry 
wine;  served  garnished  with  thin  slices  of  green 
gherkins. 

CHEESE  BISCUITS— Half  a  pound  each  of 
butter  and  flour,  four  raw  egg  yolks,  ten  ounces 
of  grated  Swiss  cheese,  one  table-spoonful  ol 
dry  mustard  and  a  little  red  pepper,  the  butter 
beaten  to  a  cream,  the  eggs  and  dry  ingredients 
then  added,  made  into  a  stiff  dough,  rolled  out, 
cut  in  square  biscuits,  baked  twenty  minutes 
in  a  rather  slow  oven  and  served. 

CHEESE  RAMEQUINS— Half  a  pound  each  of 
roquefort  and  Swiss  cheeses,  one  pound  of  but- 


44 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ter,  sixteen  raw  yolks  of  eggs,  and  the  insides 
of  foar  breakfast  rolls  boiled  in  cream  till  soft, 
the  whole  then  made  into  a  paste,  and  then 
mixed  lightly  with  the  beaten  whites  of  sixteen 
eggs;  filled  into  fancy  paper  cases  and  baked  a 
fine  brown;  served  very  hot. 

CHEESE  BOMBE — Into  a  choux  pasta  made  of 
three-quarter  pound  of  flour,  one-half  pound  of 
butter  and  a  quart  of  water,  work  in  one  at  a 
time  twelve  raw  yolks  and  eight  whites  of  eggs, 
then  three-quarter  pound  of  grated  Swiss 
cheese;  cooked  by  frying  small  spoonfuls  in  not 
too  hot  fat;  when  done,  served  with  Montpelier 
butter. 

CHEESE  FLANS— Scalloped  circles  of  puff 
paste,  on  one  half  of  it  is  spread  a  paste  made 
of  twelve  ounces  of  parmesan  cheese,  eight 
ounces  of  butter,  eight  yolks  and  four  beaten 
whites  of  eggs,  the  other  half  turned  on  to  it, 
edges  pinched  down,  arranged  on  baking  sheet, 
brushed  over  with  egg  wash,  baked,  served 
with  watercress. 

CHEESE  CASSEROLES— Slices  of  bread  one 
and  a  half  inches  thick,  trimmed  circular,  a 
center  then  cut  out  with  column  cutter  leaving 
a  bottom,  dipped  in  milk,  then  breaded  and 
fried,  taken  up  and  the  center  filled  with  a 
mixture  made  of  two  parts  bread  crumbs,  one 
part  grated  cheese,  and  half  a  part  each  of 
melted  butter  and  milk;  seasoned  with  salt  and 
red  pepper,  baked  quickly  till  cheese  is  melted 
and  served  very  hot. 

CHEESE  CUSTARD— Grated  cheese,  beaten 
raw  eggs,  dry  mustard,  salt  and  pepper  beaten 
into  milk  at  the  rate  of  three  eggs  and  four 
ounces  of  cheese  to  the  quart;  poured  into  hot 
buttered  scallop  dishes  and  baked;  served  in 
the  dish. 

CHEESE  PUDDING— Is  the  same  mixture  as 
the  preceding,  but  the  scallop  dish  fitted  with 
a  slice  of  buttered  toast,  and  the  mixture 
poured  over  it  before  baking. 

CHEESE  SOUFFLES  —  Another  name  for 
"Cheese  Ramequins",  (which  see). 

CHEESE  FRITTERS— Half  a  pound  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese  seasoned  with  salt  and  red 
pepper  worked  into  the  beaten  whites  of  eight 
eggs;  cooked  by  frying  small  spoonfuls  in  hot 
fat,  then  taken  up  and  rolled  into  grated  cheese 
mixed  with  finely  chopped  parsley;  served 
very  hot. 

POTTED  CHEESE— Grated  cheese,  to  every 
pound  of  which  is  added  four  ounces  of  melted 
butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy,  with  a 
seasoning  of  dry  mustard  and  red  pepper, 
pressed  into  jars,  covered  with  parchment 
paper  and  kept  for  use.  This  is  also  called 
"Club  cheese"  and  can  be  bought  in  small  jars. 

CHEESE  CONES— The  paste  given  for  "Cheese 
Straws"  (which  see),  cut  in  squares  and  baked, 
then  a  cone  of  whipped  cream  mixed  with 
grated  parmesan  cheese  forced  on  top  with  a 
bag  and  fancy  tube. 


CHEESE  OMELET— Beaten  eggs  with  a  little 
cream  seasoned  with  salt  and  red  pepper,  fried 
in  omelet  form,  but  before  being  rolled  dredged 
with  grated  cheese;  served  with  a  dredging  of 
cheese  on  top,  melted  in  the  oven. 

CHEESE  FINGERS— Strips  of  puff  paste  finger 
lengths;  with  each  fold  of  the  paste,  grated 
cheese  is  rolled  in,  then  cut  in  strips,  egg 
washed  and  baked. 

CHEESE  SANDWICHES— Thin  slices  of  but- 
tered bread  with  a  thin  slice  of  cheese  between, 
or  spread  with  "Potted  Cheese"  (which  see). 

CHEMISE— A  French  terra  used  to  designate 
potatoes  boiled  in  their  skins,  which  they  call 
"pommes  de  terre,  en  chemise". 

CHERRIES— California  produces  our  best  table 
cherries,  while  most  all  of  the  states  produce 
the  red  and  black  sour  cooking  cherries.  The 
following  clipping  from  the  San  Francisco 
Wave  will  show  how  an  immense  crop  is 
handled  at  a  California  ranch:  "Probably 
there  is  no  better  known  and  certainly  there 
are  few  larger  ranches  in  the  state  of  California 
than  that  owned  by  the  Meek  estate.  It  is  sit- 
uated a  little  way  outside  the  city  of  Oakland, 
and  it  covers  a  huge  tract  of  land  between  San 
Lorenzo  and  Haywards.  It  is  spread  over 
3,300  acres  of  some  of  the  finest  fruit  bearing 
country  on  the  Pacific  coast.  A  thousand 
acres  of  this  extent  is  in  fruit,  for  the  most  part 
cherries.  The  season's  cherry  picking  goes  on 
at  a  great  rate,  and  a  little  array  of  pickers  toil 
from  tree  to  tree,  stripping  the  branches  like  a 
swarm  of  locusts.  The  sight  is  picturesque, 
for  the  pickers  come  by  families  and  live  in  the 
cherry  orchard  in  a  small  village  of  tents.  At 
the  height  of  the  season  nearly  150  pickers  are 
employed.  They  are  of  all  ages  and  both  sexes, 
as  the  work  is  of  such  a  nature  that  it  can  be 
performed  as  well  by  women  as  by  men;  as 
well  by  a  ten  year  old  girl  as  by  a  grown  man. 
The  pickers  are  boarded  at  the  expense  of  the 
ranch,  and  besides  receive  from  75  cents  to  $1 
per  day,  so  that  a  wife  and  two  or  three  chil- 
dren can  make  as  much  during  the  few  weeks 
of  the  season  as  the  head  of  the  house  in  an 
entire  year.  After  the  picking,  the  cherries 
are  taken  over  to  the  packing  house  and 
handled  at  once;  the  riper  cherries  are  sorted 
out  and  put  upon  the  local  markets,  while  the 
more  backward  are  shipped  East.  The  force 
of  packers  can  dispose  of  420  boxes  per  day. 
Two  thousand  boxes  go  to  the  carload,  and 
must  be  hurried  to  their  destination  as  speedily 
as  possible,  for  there  is  no  fruit  that  loses  its 
flavor  quicker  by  overkeeping  than  the  cherry. 
For  the  same  reason  the  boxes  must  be  rapidly 
marketed,  for  they  will  not  keep  many  hours 
in  the  heat  of  an  Eastern  summer.  There  are 
plenty  of  diCBculties  in  the  way  of  getting  the 
California  cherry  upon  the  tables  of  the  Eastern 
consumer,  but  with  ordinary  care  and  a  fair 
season  the  prices  obtainable  are  not  bad.     In 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK.  45 

Chicago  a  ten-pound  box  of  California  cherries  with  sugar,  rolled  up,  ends  tuc'<ed  in,  put  in 

can   be   made   to   bring   a   dollar   if   properly  pans   and   steamed   or  baked,   or  tied  in   wet 

handled,  while  in  New  York,  though  the  East-  floured  cloths  and  plunged  into  boiling  water, 

em  local   market  comes  into  competition,   the  kept  boiling  till  done;  serve  with  cherry  sauce, 

same  quality  will  sometimes  fetch  12  cents  per  CHERRY  TARTS— Tart  molds  lined  with  puff  ' 

pound.  paste,  filled  with  cherry  meat  mixed  with  sugar, 

CHERRY  COMPOTE— Sound,  large  sweet  cher-  baked,  then  meringued,  browned  and  served, 

ries   scalded   for   three   minutes   in   a   boiling  CHERRIES    IN    CROUSTADES— The    crous- 

syrup  made  of  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  the  quart  tades  made  of  sweetened  rice  croquette  mixture, 

of  water,  the  cherries  then  removed;  the  syrup  the   edges   decorated;    served   hot,   filled  with 

flavored  with  noyeau,  and  when  cold  added  to  cherry  compote. 

the  cherries;   served  cold  in  sauce  dishes,  or  CHERRY    CHARLOTTE  —  Small   pans    lined 

hot  as  a  sweet  entree  with  a  border  of  sweet-  with  lady  fingers,  filled  with  cherry  marmalade, 

served 


ened  rice. 
BRANDIED  CHERRIES— Round,  large,  sweet 
cherries  scalded  for  two  or  three  minutes  in  a 
boiling  syrup  composed  of  one  pound  of  sugar 
to  each  quart  of  water,  then  taken  up  and  laid 
on  dishes  to  cool,  afterwards  filled  into  wide 
mouthed  bottles.     The  syrup  they  were  scalded 


covered  with  fingers,  baked  and  glazed; 
with  cherry  sauce. 
CHERRY     MARMALADE  —  Stoned     cherries 
with  some  of  their  kernels  boiled  to  a  pulp  with 
a  very  little  water  and  twelve  ounces  of  sugar 
to  each  pound  of  fruit;  when  smooth  and  stiff 
poured  into  crocks  for  future  use. 
in  then  boiled  up  again  with  another  pound  of   CHERRY    COBBLER—  Shallow  baking   pans 
sugar  added  to  each  quart,  scum  removed  as  it        lined  with  short  paste,  sides  and  bottom,  filled 
rises;  when  clear,  taken  off  the  stove  and  al-       with  cherry  meat  mixed  with  sugar,   covered 
lowed  to  become  cold,   then  an  equal  quantity        with  short  paste,  egg  washed  and  baked:  served 
of  brandy  added.      The  brandied  syrup  then        with  cherry  sauce, 
poured  over  the  cherries  in  the  bottles,  which   CHERRY  TRIFLE— Pieces  of  stale  sponge  cake 


are  hermetically  sealed  and  put  away  for  use. 
BOUCHEES  OF   CHERRIES— For  recipes  of 

fruit  bouchees  see  "Bouchees", 
GLAZED     CHERRIES     WITH     WHIPPED 

CREAM — Brandied  cherries,  the  syrup  poured 

off  and  boiled  down  till  thick  and  grainy,  then 


moistened  with  equal  parts  of  the  syrup  of 
brandied  cherries  and  sherry  wine,  smoothed 
down  into  a  dish,  then  spread  with  cherry 
marmalade,  over  which  is  poured  a  boiled  cus- 
tard flavored  with  noyeau,  the  custard  decora- 
ted with  brandied  cherries. 


flavored  with  Kirschenwasser.  allowed  to  be-  CHERRY    FRITTERS  —  Thin   slices  of  fresh 

come    cold,    then    poured   over   the  cherries;  bread  spread  between  with  cherry  marmalade, 

served  around  a  dome  of  whipped  cream  forced  the  sandwich  then  neatly  trimmed,  dipped  into 

through  a  bag  with  fancy  tube,   (called,  CER-  a   thin   batter   and   fried,   taken  up,   rolled  in 

ISES  GLACES,  k  la  CHANTILLY).  powdered  sugar;  served  with  cherry  sauce. 

CHERRY  JELLY— Five  pounds  of  stoned  cherry  CHERRY    FLAWN— A  flawn  mold  lined  with 

meat,  juice  of  eight  lemons,  one  pound  of  red  puff  paste,  filled  with  cherry  meat  mixed  with 

currant  jelly  and  some  bruised  cherry  kernels  sugar,  baked  in  slack  oven  till  done, 

mixed  and  brought  to  the  boil  in  a  gallon  of  CHERRY  WATER  ICE— One  pound  of  stoned 

syrup,  simmered  and  skimmed,  removed  from  cherries  and  half  pound  of  sugar  to  each  quart 


the  fire  and  four  ounces  of  dissolved  gelatine 
added,  then  strained  and  restrained  through  a 
jelly  bag  till  clear,  filled  into  molds  or  glasses; 
served  when  set. 
CHERRY  PIE— Stoned  red  sour  cherries  slight- 
ly flavored  with  noyeau,  mixed  with  sugar, 
filled  into  a  pie  plate  lined  with  pie  paste,  the 
fruit  then  sprinkled  with  carbonate  of  soda  to 
prevent  the  juice  running  over,  covered  with  a 


of  water,  with  a  dash  of  lemon  juice  and  a 
flavor  of  bitter  almonds,  the  stoned  cherries, 
bruised  kernels  and  sugar  mixed  and  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve  into  the  flavored  water; 
then  frozen. 
CHERRY  SHERBET --The  water  ice  of  the 
preceding  recipe,  but  when  nearly  frozen, 
whipped  whites  of  eggs,  two  to  the  quart,  are 
added,  then  frozen  till  done. 


top  crust,  edges  pressed  and  crimped,  brushed   CHERRY  MERINGUE — Sheet  of  sponge  cake 


with  egg  wash  and  baked. 

DEEP  CHERRY  PIE— Sound  red  or  black  sour 
cherries  mixed  with  sugar,  filled  into  a  deep 
lined  pie  dish,  heaped  high  in  the  center,  cov- 
ered with  top  crust,  egg  washed,  and  baked. 

CHERRY   PUDDING  — Molds   or   bowls   lined 


spread  thickly  with  cherry  marmalade,  then 
spread  fancifully  with  meringue,  dotted  with 
brandied  cherries,  baked  a  straw  color,  cut  in 
shapes,  served  with  cream  or  whipped  cream. 
CHERVIL  —  A  garden  herb  with  a  combined 
flavor  of  parsley  and  fennel, 
with  short- paste,  filled  with  cherry  meat  mixed  CHESTNUTS  —  The  large  ones  obtainable  at 
with  sugar,  covered  with  top  crust,  boiled  or  most  Italian  stores  are  the  best  suited  for  culi- 
steamed  till  done;  served  with  cherry  sauce.  nary  purposes,  the  small  ones  seen  at  the  fruit 

CHERRY  ROLY-POLY— Sweet  biscuit  dough        stalls  being  far  too  tedious.     They  should  be 
rolled  out  thin,  spread  with  cherry  meat  mixed       first  cut  through  the  shell  in  the  form  of  a 


46 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


cross,  so  as  to  strip  the  shell  oS  easily,  then 
placed  in  a  baking  pan,  put  into  a  slack  oven 
till  done;  or  they  may  be  boiled  till  done,  and 
then  husked.     Some  people  like  to  eat  boiled 

'  chestnuts,  the  water  being  flavored  with  ani- 
seed; when  husked,  made  hot  again  in  a  little 
melted  butter. 

CHESTNUT  FORCEMEAT— Chestnuts  boiled 
and  husked,  pounded  to  a  paste  with  butter, 
mixed  with  a  little  grated  ham,  breadcrumbs, 
minced  onion,  grated  lemon  rind,  yolks  of  eggs, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  used  to  stuff 
poultry  and  suckling  pigs. 

DEVILLED  CHESTNUTS  — Boiled,  peeled, 
fried  brown  in  butter  oil,  taken  up  and  sprink- 
led with  salt  and  red  pepper. 

PUR£E  of  CHESTNUTS  —  Boiled,  peeled, 
pounded,  then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve. 

CHESTNUT  SOUP— A  thin  cream  of  chicken 
stock  thickened  with  a  puree  of  chestnuts,  sea- 
soned and  served. 
.CHIANTI — A  low  priced  yet  good  Italian  wine 
with  a  Burgundy  flavor. 

CHICORY— A  plant,  the  leaves  of  which  are  used 
for  salads.  The  root  is  ground  and  used  to  mix 
with  coffee,  giving  it  a  sweetish  taste  and  dark 
color.  Chicory  should  be  discarded  from  coffee. 
Eminent  physicians  claim  it  has  a  debilitating 
effect,  and  a  tendency  to  excite  looseness  of  the 
bowels.  Stewards  who  buy  cheap  ground  coffee 
will  invariably  find  it  adulterated  with  chicory, 
and  the  chicory  adulterated  with  Venitian  red, 
acorns,  beans,  peas,  coffee  husks,  rye,  parsnips, 
damaged  wheat,  dried  coffee  grounds,  sawdust, 
bark,  logwood  dust,  etc.  MORAL:  do  not 
handle  it  at  all,  buy  whole  coffee  and  see  it 
ground  yourselves. 

BROILED  CHICKEN— Spring chickenscleaned, 
split,  the  breast  and  backbone  removed,  thigh 
bone  snapped,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
brushed  with  butter,  broiled  well  done;  served 
on  buttered  toast,  garnished  with  lemon  and 
watercress,  using  frills  on  leg  and  wing  bones. 

FRIED  CHICKEN- Spring  chickens  cleaned, 
split  down  the  back,  breast  and  backbone  re- 
moved, thigh  bone  snapped,  rolled  in  butter, 
then  in  flour,  fried  in  skillet  with  a  cover  on; 
it  may  also  be  breaded,  or  dipped  in  batter, 
and  fried  in  hot  fat;  the  first  way  tastes  the 
best. 

SMOTHERED  CHICKEN —  Spring  chickens 
split  in  halves,  breast  and  backbone  removed, 
thigh  bone  snapped,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  dipped  in  melted  butter,  rolled  in  flour, 
arranged  in  a  baking  pan  with  bacon  fat,  sliced 
vegetables  and  sweet  herbs,  moistened  with  a 
little  chicken  gravy,  another  pan  put  over  as  a 
lid,  baked,  basted  and  turned  till  done  and 
brown,  taken  up;  gravy  made  in  the  pan  they 
were  cooked  in,  strained,  skimmed  and  served 
with  the  chickens. 

CHICKEN  CROQUETTES— Cold  roast  chicken 


cut  into  very  small  dice  mixed  with  minced 
mushrooms,  seasoned  with  lemon  juice,  salt  and 
nutmeg,  boiled  down  thick  in  V^lout^  sauce, 
turned  into  a  shallow  buttered  pan.  smoothed 
with  a  knife,  covered  with  buttered  paper; 
when  cold,  cut  into  even  sized  pieces,  formed 
into  cone  shapes,  breaded,  fried,  served  with 
mushroom  sauce  poured  around  and  garnished 
with  croquette  frills. 

MINCED  CHICKEN  CUTLETS.  SAUCE  BOR- 
DELAISE — The  croquette  mixture  preceding 
with  the  addition  of  a  seasoning  of  minced  fried 
shallots,  thyme  and  chopped  parsley;  when 
cold,  cut  into  even  sized  pieces,  shaped  like 
small  lamb  chops,  using  a  piece  of  macaroni  to 
represent  the  bone;  breaded  and  fried;  served 
with  Bordelaise  sauce  poured  around,  and  gar- 
nished with  heart  shaped  crofltons  dipped  in 
tomato  sauce  and  sprinkled  with  chopped 
parsley. 

FRICASSEE  OF  CHICKEN— Tender  chickens 
cut  into  joints,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  add 
lemon  juice,  rolled  in  flour,  lightly  fried  in 
butter,  then  put  into  Velout^  sauce  and  sim- 
mered till  tender;  Parisienne  potatoes  steamed, 
then  plunged  into  boiling  fat  and  lightly 
browned;  button  mushrooms  saut^ed  in  butter; 
the  sauce  the  chickens  were  stewed  in  finished 
with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream.  Served, 
the  chicken  with  sauce  poured  over,  and  sur- 
rounded with  alternate  potatoes  and  mushrooms. 
Fricassee  of  chicken  may  also  be  made  of 
boiled  chickens  the  same  way,  or  using  cold 
boiled  ones;  the  garnish  may  also  be  omitted 
or  changed  to  the  fancy  of  the  cook. 

CHICKEN  PIE— Chickens  boiled  whole  till  ten- 
der with  an  onion  and  piece  of  salt  pork;  when 
done,  taken  up,  the  breasts  and  legs  pulled  off, 
the  back  bones  thrown  into  the  stock,  the  legs 
cut  in  halves,  the  under  breast  separated,  and 
if  the  upper  breast  is  large,  cut  in  two,  if  small 
left  whole;  the  pork  cut  into  dice,  the  chicken 
then  put  into  baking  dishes  with  the  pork, 
sliced  hard  boiled  eggs,   raw  Parisienne  pota-  3 

toes  and  some  chopped  parsley;  covered  with  a  ] 

sauce  made  from  the  stock  they  were  boiled  in,  5 

reserving  some  o'f  it,  the  pie  then  covered  with 
short  paste,  egg  washed  and  baked.  In  serv- 
ing give  liberally  of  the  gravy,  using  the  re- 
served sauce  to  replenish  the  pie. 

CHICKEN  POT  PIE— Chickens  boiled  with  salt 
pork  and  a  few  vegetables  till  tender,  taken  up 
and  cut  as  for  chicken  pie  preceding,  put  into 
a  pan;  sauce  made  of  the  stock,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice  and  chopped 
parsley,  poured  over  the  chickens;  spoonfuls 
of  dumpling  mixture  dropped  close  together  all 
over  it;  baked  and  served.  Or  the  chicken 
when  cut  up,  may  be  put  into  another  saucepan, 
covered  with  the  sauce,  dumplings  put  all  over 
it,  lid  put  on,  and  the  dumplings  cooked  by 
thus  having  the  sauce  boiled  round  them. 


THE  CULINARi'  HANDBOOK. 


47 


CHICKEN  SAUTfi  WITH  RISSOTO— Young 
chickens  fried  in  joints,  of  a  light  color  with 
mushrooms,  taken  up,  gravy  made  in  the  pan 
they  were  fried  in,  strained  over  the  chicken 
in  a  sailtoir,  simmered  till  done,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  glass  of  sherry  wine.  Ris- 
soto  made  by  cutting  some  ham  fat  into  small 
dice  and  frying  it  with  minced  onion  in  a  safl- 
toir,  little  curry  powder  added,  then  rice, 
moistened  with  white  stock,  lid  put  on  and 
simmered  till  rice  is  well  cooked,  adding  more 
stock  if  required.  Served,  the  chicken  in  sauce 
in  the  center  of  the  dish,  flanked  with  small 
domes  of  rissoto  formed  by  filling  small  molds 
and  turning  them  out  for  each  order. 

SMALL  CHICKEN  PIES,  FRENCH  STYLE 
— Boiled  tender  chickens,  the  stock  well  re- 
duced till  of  a  full  flavor,  meat  taken  from  the 
chickens,  cut  into  flakes  of  an  even  size;  thick 
sauce  made  of  the  stock,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  nutmeg  and  chopped  parsley,  poured 
to  the  chicken.  Puff  paste  cut  out  with  large 
circular  cutter,  egg  washed  and  baked;  when 
done  the  paste  split,  the  lower  half  covered 
with  the  chicken   meat  in   sauce,    top  put  on; 


breast  resting  on  a  fancy  croflton  flanked  with 
a  slice  of  the  tongue.  Supreme  sauce  poured 
over  the  chicken,  garnished  with  button  mush- 
rooms, turned  truffles,  cocks-combs  and  kernels. 

SUPREME  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  RICE, 
SAUCE  PfiRIGUEUX— The  supr6me  pre- 
pared as  in  the  preceding;  served,  a  bed  of  dry 
boiled  rice,  breast  of  chicken  masked  with  Su- 
preme sauce  on  top,  flanked  with  two  slices  of 
the  tongue,  and  Perigueux  sauce  poured  around. 

STEWED  CHICKEN,  TURKISH  STYLE— 
Young  chickens  boiled  whole  with  a  rack  of 
mutton,  (the  part  that  is  under  the  shoulder)  in 
white  stock;  when  the  chicken  is  not  quite  done 
it  is  taken  up  and  drained,  placed  in  a  sadtoir 
with  butter  and  sliced  onions  and  fried  a  golden 
color,  then  taken  up  and  cut  into  joints,  the 
onions  removed  and  washed  rice  put  into  the 
safltoir,  moistened  with  the  stock  the  chicken 
and  mutton  was  boiled  in,  cooked  till  dry  and 
tender,  sauce  made  of  the  remaining  stock  sea- 
soned with  a  little  cinnamon;  served,  a  bed  of 
the  rice,  a  chop  and  joint  of  the  chicken  rest- 
ing on  it,  with  the  sauce  poured  over  and 
around. 


served  surrounded  with  small  balls  of  potatoes   CHICKEN  WITH  RICE,  MALTESE   STYLE 

— Young  chickens  roasted  whole  not  quite 
done,  then  jointed,  then  braised  for  a  few  min- 
utes with  minced  onions,  garlic,  and  a  few 
cloves,  then  one  part  of  tomato  sauce  and  two 
parts  of  white  stock  is  added  to  the  chickens, 
and  when  boiled  up,  washed  rice  is  added  and 
the  whole  simmered  till  the  rice  is  tender; 
served,  a  bed  of  rice  with  joint  of  chicken  on 
top  and  sauce  Trianon  poured  around. 
ROAST  CHICKEN,  OYSTER  SAUCE— Young 
chickens  drawn,  singed,  washed,  wiped  dry, 
filled  with  a  stuffing  made  of  blanched  and 
chopped  oysters,  chopped  parsley,  fresh  bread 
crumbs,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  dash  of 
anchovy  essence,  trussed,  roasted  and  basted 
till  tender;  served  with  some  of  the  stuffing 
underneath  and  oyster  sauce  poured  around; 
made  by  blanching  the  oysters,  then  cutting 
them  into  neat  pieces,  saut^eing  them  with 
butter  and  fine  herbs;  sauce  made  of  the  liquor 
from  the  blanching,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  a  dash  of  anchovy  essence,  the  saut^ed 
oysters  and  herbs  then  added. 
STEWED  CHICKEN,  SPANISH  STYLE  — 
Cold  boiled  chicken  cut  into  joints,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  mixed  ground  spices, 
saut^ed  in  olive  oil  with  minced  shallots,  garlic 
and  chopped  parsley;  when  colored,  the  surplus 
oil  poured  off,  and  Espagnole  sauce  added, 
simmered  a  few  minutes;  served  with  the  sauce 
and  garnished  with  slices  of  hard  boiled  (hot) 


steamed,  then  moistened  with  MSitre  D'Hotel 
butter. 

CUTLETS  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  VEGE- 
TABLES— Spring  chickens  should  be  used* 
boiled  not  quite  done  in  white  stock,  then 
allowed  to  become  cold,  the  breasts  and  legs 
then  taken  off,  making  four  cutlets  to  each 
chicken,  leaving  the  leg  and  wing  bones  a  little 
long  and  scraping  the  same,  so  that  it  resem- 
bles a  chop  bone;  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  breaded  and  fried;  served  surrounded 
with  Julienne  vegetables  mixed  into  HoUandaise 
sauce. 

FRIED  FRICASSfeE  OF  CHICKEN  — Neat 
shaped  pieces  of  cold  fricasseed  chicken  with 
the  sauce  adhering,  rolled  in  bread  crumbs, 
then  breaded  and  fried;  served  with  a  white 
Italian  sauce  poured  around. 

STEWED  CHICKEN  WITH  TOMATOES— 
The  chickens  jointed,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  placed  in  a  safltoir  with  olive  oil,  pars- 
ley ,  some  small  onions  and  a  clove  of  garlic, 
lid  placed  on  and  fried  or  simmered  in  their 
own  steam  till  tender,  taken  up  and  gravy  made 
in  the  safltoir  they  were  stewed  in;  served,  the 
chicken  with  some  gravy  over  it,  garnished  with 
fried  slices  of  tomatoes  sprinkled  with  parsley 
dust. 

SUPREME  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  TOU- 
LOUSE RAGOUT— Breasts  of  young  chickens 
that  have  been  boiled  whole,  so  that  their  shape 


is  retained;    skinned  and  trimmed  to  a   pear       eggs. 

shape,  then  saut^ed  lightly  in  butter,   taken  up   CHICKEN  STUFFED   WITH   CHESTNUTS. 

and  placed  into  a  Supreme  sauce  and  simmered        MADfiiRA  SAUCE— Chickens  drawn,  singed 


gently  for  a  few  minutes;  slices  of  cooked 
smoked  tongue  trimmed  to  a  pear  shape  and 
heated  with  a  little  butter;  served,  the  chicken 


and  washed,  then  boiled  till  tender  in  white 
stock,  taken  up,  cooled,  stuffed  with  chestnut 
forcemeat,  trussed,  roasted  quickly,  being  bast- 


48 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ed  with  butter  and  flour,  served  with  a  rich 
Madeira  sauce  poured  around. 

CHICKEN  WITH  CHESTNUT  PURfiE  AND 
VEGETABLES — Cold  roast  chickens  cut  into 
joints  and  trimmed,  bone  removed  and  its  place 
filled  with  a  stiff  pur^e  of  chestnuts  moistened 
with  a  little  cream,  together  with  the  grated 
rind  of  a  lemon,  the  stuffed  joints  then  dipped 
in  limpid  aspic  jelly  and  allowed  to  set,  then 
decorated  with  a  piping  of  Ravigote  butter; 
served,  a  cold  dish  covered  with  crisp  lettuce 
leaves,  at  the  ends  a  triangular  shape  of  mace- 
doine  of  vegetables  mixed  with  salad  cream, 
the  chicken  joints  resting  on  the  salad,  and 
tartar  sauce  in  the  center. 

ROAST  CHICKEN  WITH  MUSHROOMS 
AND  BREAD  SAUCE— Young  chickens  drawn, 
singed,  washed,  trussed  with  slices  of  bacon 
tied  over  the  breast,  roasted  and  basted,  and 
when  nearly  done  the  bacon  removed  and  the 
breast  browned;  served  with  bread  sauce  at 
one  end  of  the  dish,  saut^ed  mushrooms  in 
sauce  as  a  border,  also  a  garnish  of  fresh  crisp 
watercress. 

CHICKENS,  MARYLAND  STYLE  —  Spring 
chickens  singed,  split  down  the  back,  the  breast 
bone  and  back  bone  removed,  left  in  halves  for 
restaurant,  and  the  leg  and  breast  separated 
for  hotel  orders,  making  four  portions  of  each 
chicken;  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped 
in  beaten  eggs,  then  fresh  bread  crumbs,  ar- 
ranged in  baking  pan  with  slices  of  bacon, 
brushed  with  melted  butter,  roasted  and  basted 
with  the  bacon  fat  till  done;  served,  the  chick- 
en resting  on  a  corn  fritter,  flanked  with  two 
slices  of  the  bacon,  and  a  ladle  of  Bechamel 
sauce  poured  around. 

BOILED  CHICKEN  WITH  SALT  PORK, 
PARSLEY  SAUCE— Small  chickens  about  two 
pounds  each  in  weight,  singed,  drawn,  washed 
and  put  to  boil  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork,  an 
onion  stuck  with  cloves,  carrot  and  celery; 
when  tender,  taken  up,  the  breasts  and  legs 
carefully  removed,  backbone  and  trimmings 
thrown  back  into  the  stock,  the  joints  kept  hot 
in  white  stock,  the  sauce  made  of  the  liquor 
they  were  boiled  in;  served,  a  breast  or  leg 
and  under  breast  flanked  with  a  slice  of  the 
pork,  and  the  sauce  poured  around. 

FRIED  CHICKEN  IN  BATTER,  TOMATO 
SAUCE  —  Spring  chickens  blanched  whole, 
then  separated  (not  cut)  into  four  joints,  steeped 
for  an  hour  in  a  mixture  of  chopped  parsley, 
salt,  pepper,  minced  shallots,  lemon  juice  and 
olive  oil,  then  taken  up  and  wiped,  dipped  into 
a  batter,  fried  in  hot  fat;  served  with  tomato 
sauce  poured  around. 

HARICOT  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  VEGE- 
TABLES — Chickens  singed, drawn  and  washed, 
then  boiled  whole  with  carrots,  turnips  and 
onions;  when  nearly  done  taken  up  and  cut 
into  joints,   seasoned  with  salt  and   pepper, 


rolled  in  flour,  fried  a  golden  brown  with  butter, 
placed  into  a  saiitoir,  brown  sauce  made  of  the 
stock  they  were  boiled  in,  strained  over  the 
fried  chicken,  simmered  till  tender,  the  cooked 
vegetables  cut  into  large  dice,  mixed  with 
cooked  green  peas,  moistened  with  gravy  and 
kept  hot  in  it;  served,  the  chicken  in  sauce  sur- 
rounded with  the  vegetables. 

BRAISED  CHICKEN  WITH  MACARONI— 
Old  fowls  singed,  drawn,  washed  and  wiped, 
then  steamed  for  an  hour,  taken  up,  cut  into 
joints,  placed  in  a  safltoir  with  vegetables  and 
spices,  moistened  with  Madeira  sauce,  lid  put 
on,  saiitoir  placed  in  hot  oven  and  the  chicken 
braised  till  tender,  then  taken  up  into  another 
safltoir  and  the  braise  strained  over  them; 
macaroni  in  inch  lengths  boiled  in  stock  with 
an  onion;  when  done,  drained,  sprinkled  with 
Parmesan  cheese  and  chopped  parsley;  served, 
the  chicken  in  sauce  surrounded  with  the  mac- 
aroni. 

BROILED  CHICKEN,  HUNTER'S  STYLE— 
Spring  chickens  singed,  split  down  the  back, 
backbone  and  breastbone  removed,  steeped  for 
an  hour  in  a  mixture  of  olive  oil,  minced  onions, 
chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice, 
taken  up,  rolled  in  fresh  breadcrumbs,  broiled 
well  done;  served  with  sauce  Chasseur  poured 
around,  and  garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

EPIGRAMME  OF  CHICKEN,  TOMATO 
SAUCE  —  Young  chickens  singed,  drawn, 
washed  and  wiped,  blanched,  taken  up  and 
separated  into  four  joints,  the  breast  and  under 
breast  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 
breaded,  arranged  in  a  buttered  safltoir,  roasted 
and  basted  till  tender  and  brown,  the  legs 
boned,  then  filled  with  chicken  forcemeat, 
braised  and  glazed;  served,  a  fancy  croflton  in 
center  of  dish  with  a  glazed  leg  and  browned 
breast  resting  on  either  side,  and  a  rich  tomato 
sauce  poured  around. 

BLANCHED  CHICKEN  WITH  V£L0UT£ 
SAUCE — Young  white  fleshed  chickens  singed, 
drawn,  washed,  trussed  with  a  piece  of  butter 
size  of  an  egg  mixed  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon 
and  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  in  the  inside 
of  each;  arranged  in  a  saiitoir  with  slices  of 
lemon  and  fat  bacon,  moistened  with  a  little 
white  stock,  lid  put  on,  steamed  in  this  way  till 
tender;  served,  masked  with  V^lout^  sauce, 
and  garnished  with  Hollandaise  potatoes. 

MATELOTE  OF  CHICKEN— Young  chickens 
singed,  drawn,  washed,  simmered  for  half  an 
hour  in  white  stock,  taken  up,  jointed,  put  into 
V^lout^  sauce  with  a  glass  of  white  wine,  sim- 
mered till  tender,  then  is  added  small  white 
onions,  balls  of  carrot  and  turnip  (some  use 
parsnip)  each  of  which  has  been  boiled  in  con- 
somme with  a  pincn  of  sugar;  served,  the 
chicken  in  sauce,  garnished  with  vegetables. 

CHICKEN  SAUTfe  WITH  MUSHROOMS— 
Young  chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed,  cut 
into  joints,    seasoned   with   salt  and    pepper, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


4d 


fried  in  oil  with  herbs  and  garlic,  when  brown, 
taken  up  and  placed  into  a  safltoir,  button 
mushrooms  then  fried  in  the  oil,  taken  up  and 
put  with  the  chickens,  surplus  oil  then  poured 
o£f,  flour  added  to  the  pan,  stirred,  moistened 
with  chicken  stock  and  Madeira  wine,  boiled 
up,  skimmed,  strained  over  the  chickens,  which 
are  then  simmered  till  tender;  served  garnished 
with  the  mushrooms  (called,  CHICKEN  k  la 
MARENGO). 

CHICKEN  STUFFED  AND  STEWED.  SAUCE 
MILANAISE — Young  chickens  singed,  drawn, 
washed,  filled  with  a  stufiSng  made  of  grated 
lean  ham,  chopped  hard  boiled  eggs,  fresh 
bread  crumbs,  chopped  parsley,  minced  shal- 
lots, juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  seasoning  of  thyme, 
trussed,  arranged  in  a  sailtoir,  covered  with 
white  stock,  lid  placed  on,  simmered  and  basted 
till  tender;  served  in  joints  with  some  of  the 
stuffing  underneath,  and  Milanaise  sauce  poured 
around. 

FRIED  CHICKEN  WITH  CUCUMBER 
PURfiE — Spring  chickens  singed,  split  down 
the  back,  separated  into  four  joints,  backbone 
and  breastbone  removed,  blanched  in  white 
stock  for  a  few  minutes,  then  taken  up  and 
coated  with  thick  cucumber  sauce,  rolled  in 
bread  crumbs,  then  breaded,  fried;  served  sur- 
rounded with  a  puree  of  cucumbers. 

STEWED  CHICKEN  WITH  DUMPLINGS— 
Young  chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed  and 
jointed,  arranged  in  saucepan  with  carrot, 
onion,  celery  and  turnip,  moistened  with  white 
stock,  simmered  till  tender,  taken  up,  sauce 
made  of  the  stock,  the  vegetables  rubbed 
through  a  sieve  into  the  finished  sauce,  dump- 
lings steamed;  served,  the  chicken  in  center  of 
dish,  dumpling  at  each  end,  sauce  poured  over 
the  whole,  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust. 

FRIED  CHICKEN.  INDIAN  STYLE  — Spring 
chickens  blanched  whole,  then  jointed,  sea- 
soned  with  salt,  pepper  and  rubbed  with  curry 
powder,  fried  brown  in  butter;  served  with  a 
garnish  of  stewed  onions. 

BRAISED  FILLETS  OF  CHICKEN,  HAN- 
OVER SAUCE  — Old  fowls  singed,  drawn, 
washed,  steamed  for  an  hour,  then  cut  into 
fillets,  arranged  in  a  safltoir  with  spices  and 
vegetables,  moistened  with  consomm^,  braised 
till  tender  and  the  consomm^  has  reduced  to 
half  glaze,  fillets  taken  up  into  another  safltoir, 
the  braise  strained  into  an  Hanover  sauce  and 
poured  over  the  chicken;  served  with  it  and 
garnished  with  fancy  crofltons. 

CHICKEN  CURRIED,  WITH  RICE  — Young 
chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed,  boiled  for  an 
hour  in  white  stock,  taken  up,  drained,  cut  into 
joints,  seasoned  with  salt,  rolled  in  flour,  fried 
brown  in  butter  with  sliced  onions  and  a  clove 
of  garlic,  chicken  then  taken  up  and  placed  in- 
to a  sailtoir,  sprinkled  with  curry  powder  and 
flour,  shook  together,  moistened  with  the 
Strained  stock  they  were  boiled  in,  simmered 


till  tender,  with  the  addition  of  a  grated  green 
apple  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon;  served  in  the 
center  of  a  border  of  dry  boiled  rice. 

BLANQUETTE  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  TRUF- 
FLES— Young  white  chickens  singed,  drawn, 
washed,  arranged  in  a  safltoir  with  slices  of  fat 
bacon  and  some  lemon  juice,  moistened  with 
white  stock,  lid  put  on  and  simmered  till  tender, 
taken  up  and  cut  into  joints,  placed  into  another 
safltoir,  bacon  and  grease  removed.  Bechamel 
sauce  then  poured  in,  boiled  up,  skimmed, 
strained  over  the  chickens;  served  with  it, 
sprinkled  with  minced  truffle  peelings. 

SPITCHCOCKED  CHICKEN,  CRAPAUDINE 
SAUCE — Spring  chickens  singed,  split,  washed, 
backbone  and  breastbone  removed,  trussed  out 
like  a  frog,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rolled  in  olive  oil,  broiled  well  done;  served  on 
toast  with  crapaudine  sauce  poured  around, 
garnished  with  parsley  and  lemon. 

STEWED  CHICKEN  WITH  RICE  — Young 
chickens  singed,  split,  jointed,  fried  with  olive 
oil  in  a  saiitoir;  when  brown,  surplus  oil  poured 
off,  minced  green  peppers  and  onions  with  a 
clove  of  garlic  (crushed)  then  added  and  fried  a 
little  more,  lightly  sprinkled  with  flour,  shook 
together,  moistened  with  consomme,  lid  placed 
on  and  simmered  till  tender  and  glazy,  then  is 
added  some  slices  of  pimentoes  and  chutney 
with  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  boiled  up;  served 
within  a  border  of  dry  boiled  rice  that  has  been 
very  slightly  flavored  and  colored  with  curry. 

STEWED  CHICKEN,  MEXICAN  STYLE— 
Young  chickens  singed,  split,  jointed,  fried 
with  olive  oil  in  a  sadtoir  till  brown,  taken  up 
in  another  safltoir,  ham  and  garlic  then  fried 
in  the  oil  of  a  light  color,  surplus  oil  poured  off 
the  onions,  etc.,  then  moistened  with  equal 
parts  of  tomato  and  Espagnole  sauces,  seasoned 
with  thyme,  sage,  marjoram  and  sweet  pepper, 
simmered  for  half  an  hour,  skimmed,  strained 
over  the  chickens  which  are  then  simmered  till 
tender;  raw  tomatoes  peeled  and  the  seeds  re- 
moved, cut  into  pieces  and  stewed  down  thick 
with  chili  sauce;  served,  the  chicken  in  sauce 
with  fancy  crofltons  at  ends  of  dish,  garnished 
at  the  sides  with  the  tomato  and  chili  mixture. 

BRAISED  CHICKENS  WITH  GREEN  PEP- 
PERS— Young  chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed, 
filled  with  a  stuffing  made  by  boiling  yellow 
corn  meal  with  chicken  stock  to  mush;  when 
done,  mixed  with  fresh  grated  breadcrumbs, 
parmesan  cheese,  butter,  salt  and  pepper, 
trussed  with  slices  of  bacon  tied  over  the  breast, 
arranged  in  a  safltoir  with  onions,  carrot,  pars- 
ley, bay  leaves,  cloves  and  a  crushed  clove  of 
garlic,  moistened  with  consomm^,  braised  till 
tender  and  glazy,  taken  up,  braise  strained 
and  skimmed,  then  added  to  some  Espagnole 
sauce  containing  green  peppers  sliced,  and  a 
seasoning  of  curry  powder;  served,  the  chick- 
ens in  portions  with  stuffing  underneath,  sauce 
poured  over,  garnished  with  the  peppers. 


50 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


BOILED  CHICKEN  WITH  VEGETABLES. 
ALLEMANDE  SAUCE  — Old  fowls  singed, 
drawn,  washed  and  trussed,  put  into  saucepan 
with  carrot,  celery  and  onions,  covered  with 
salted  water,  lid  put  on.  saucepan  then  placed 
in  hot  oven,  chickens  simmered  till  tender 
(about  three  hours),  taken  up.  Allemande  sauce 
made  from  the  remaining  stock;  small  balls  of 
carrot  simmered  in  consomm^  till  tender,  a  can 
each  of  lima  beans  and  flageolets  opened  and 
washed,  then  mixed  with  the  carrot  balls,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  sugar  and  red  pepper;  served, 
the  chicken  in  joints  with  sauce  poured  over, 
and  garnished  with  the  mixed  vegetables  drained 
out  of  the  consomm^. 

BOILED  LARDED  CHICKEN  WITH  MAC- 
ARONI—Old  fowls  singed,  drawn,  washed, 
the  breasts  larded,  trussed,  arranged  in  sauce- 
pan with  carrot,  onions  and  celery,  covered 
■with  salted  water,  lid  put  on,  simmered  in  hot 
oven  till  tender;  a  rich  yellow  sauce  made  from 
the  reduced  liquor,  macaroni  broken  in  inch 
lengths  and  boiled  in  salted  water  till  done, 
taken  up.  drained,  seasoned  with  paprika,  par- 
mesan  cheese  and  a  little  of  the  sauce  for  the 
chickens;  served,  the  birds  in  joints  with  the 
sauce  poured  over  and  sprinkled  with  parsley 
dust,  garnished  with  the  macaroni. 

STEWED  CHICKENS  WITH  ESTRAGON— 
Old  fowls  singed,  drawn,  jointed,  washed,  put 
into  a  saiitoir  with  some  fat  from  the  top  of  the 
stock  pot.  a  few  veal  trimmings,  a  bunch  of 
tarragon  and  some  sherry  wine,  covered  with 
white  stock,  lid  put  on  and  simmered  in  a  hot 
oven  till  tender,  then  taken  up  into  another 
safltoir,  the  remaining  stock  strained,  skimmed, 
and  added  to  a  rich  Poulette  sauce  containing 
chopped  tarragon  leaves;  served,  the  chicken 
covered  with  the  sauce  and  garnished  with 
slices  of  hard  boiled  (hot)  eggs. 

BRAISED  CHICKENS  WITH  VEGETABl^ES 
— Old  fowls  singed,  drawn,  washed,  the  breasts 
larded,  trussed,  arranged  in  saucepan  with 
some  bacon  trimmings,  spices  and  vegetables, 
moistened  with  white  stock  and  Madeira  sauce 
in  equal  parts,  lid  put  on.  simmered  in  hot 
oven  till  tender,  taken  up.  the  braise  strained 
and  skimmed,  then  poured  over  the  chickens; 
cans  of  macedoines  opened  and  washed,  then 
kept  hot  in  consomm6;  served,  the  chickens  in 
joints  with  the  sauce  over,  garnished  with  the 
vegetables  drained  from  the  consomm^. 

BRAISED  CHICKENS  WITH  MUSHROOMS 
— Old  fowls  prepared,  bacon  tied  over  the 
breast,  arranged  in  a  safltoir  with  vegetables 
and  spices,  moistened  with  consomm6,  lid  put 
on,  then  braised  till  tender  and  glazy,  taken  up, 
braise  skimmed,  strained  and  added  to  button 
mushrooms  that  have  been  saut^ed  with  butter 
and  then  mixed  into  Bechamel  sauce;  served, 
the  glazed  pieces  of  chicken  resting  on  neat 
shaped  pieces  of  toast  surrounded  with  the 
mushrooms  in  sauce. 


CHAUDFROID  OF  CHICKEN— Spring  chick- 
ens  a  pound  and  a  half  each  in  weight,  singed, 
drawn,  washed,  trussed,  wrapped  in  buttered 
paper,  roasted  without  browning,  taken  up  and 
allowed  to  cool  in  the  paper,  then  separated 
into  four  joints,  neatly  trimmed;  equal  parts  of 
aspic  jelly  and  Poulette  sauce  made  warm 
enough  to  mix,  then  stirred  surrounded  with 
broken  ice  till  thick,  the  chicken  then  dipped 
into  it,  then  arranged  on  a  baking  sheet  to  set; 
when  set,  decorate  them  with  slices  of  truffles; 
the  remaining  sauce  filled  into  timbale  molds 
that  have  been  lined  with  aspic  jelly  and  set; 
served,  the  chicken  joint  resting  on  a  crouton 
of  aspic  jelly,  with  the  timbale  turned  out  oa 
the  end  of  the  chicken,  the  other  end  garnished 
with  watercress. 

CHARTREUSE  OF  CHICKEN  WITH 
STRING  BEANS— Cold  cooked  chicken  three- 
fifths;  lean  cooked  ham  and  fresh  grated  bread 
crumbs  each  one-fifth;  the  meats  cut  into  very 
small  squares,  mixed  with  the  crumbs  together 
with  some  chopped  chervil,  capers  and  a  sea- 
soning of  tarragon  vinegar,  salt  and  red  pepper; 
moistened  with  stock  and  beaten  raw  eggs; 
filled  into  buttered  molds  within  half  an  inch 
of  the  top,  lids  put  on  and  steamed  for  an  hour; 
allow  them  to  slightly  cool  before  turning  out; 
served,  in  slices  surrounded  with  French  string 
beans  (haricots  verts)  taken  from  the  cans; 
washed,  then  heated  in  Velout^  sauce. 

DEVILLED  CHICKEN  LEGS  WITH  BACON 
— Skinned  tender  chicken  legs,  scored,  laid  for 
an  hour  in  a  mixture  of  olive  oil,  Worcester- 
shire sauce,  lemon  juice,  red  pepper  and  an- 
chovy essence,  then  taken  up  and  slowly 
broiled;  served  resting  on  a  croflton,  garnished 
with  strips  of  bacon,  and  some  sauce  Diable. 

CHICKEN  FORCEMEAT  —  White  meat  of 
cooked  chicken  three  parts;  white  bread  soaked 
in  chicken  stock,  then  squeezed  dry,  one  part; 
pounded  together  to  a  paste  with  two  ounces  of 
Dutter  to  each  pound  of  meat,  seasoned  with 
salt^  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  little  lemon  juice, 
then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve  and  mixed  to 
a  stiff  consistency  with  egg  yolks  and  cold 
V^lout^  sauce. 

CHICKEN  FORCEMEAT  BALLS  CURRIED, 
WITH  RICE— Balls  of  the  preceding  force- 
meat poached  in  a  good  curry  sauce;  served 
with  it,  being  arranged  on  the  serving  dish 
alternately  with  small  molds  of  dry  boiled  rice. 

FILLETS  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  ASPARAGUS 
POINTS  —  Spring  chickens  one  and  a  half 
pounds  each  in  weight,  singed,  drawn,  washed, 
boiled  just  done,  taken  up,  cooled,  skinned, 
separated  into  four  joints  neatly  trimmed,  re- 
heated in  a  rich  Villeroi  sauce;  served  masked 
with  it,  garnished  with  asparagus  points  sea- 
soned with  butter. 

CHICKEN  CUTLETS  WITH  GREEN  PEAS 
Spring  chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed, 
steamed  not  quite  done,  taken  up,  cooled,  skin- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ned,  separated  into  four  joints,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  dipped  in  cooling  Vil- 
leroi  sauce,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  then  breaded 
and  arranged  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  roasted 
and  basted  till  brown  and  frothy;  served  sur- 
rounded with  green  peas  moistened  with  con- 
somme and  butter. 

SCALLOPED  CHICKEN— Cold  cooked  chicken 
meat  cut  into  thin  slices,  moistened  with  Alle- 
mande  sauce,  filled  into  scallop  shells  or  oval 
deep  dishes,  sprinkled  with  fresh  bread  crumbs 
mixed  with  Parmesan  cheese,  salt,  red  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  then  with  melted  butter,  arranged 
on  a  baking  sheet,  heated  and  browned;  served 
in  the  shell  or  dish,  garnished  with  watercress. 

CHICKEN  KROMESKIES,  SAUCE  p£RI- 
GUEUX — Cooked  chicken  and  tongue,  button 
mushrooms  and  trufiBes  all  cut  into  very  small 
squares  and  boiled  down  thick  in  a  rich  Velout^ 
sauce,  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream  added 
just  at  the  finish,  then  turned  into  a  buttered 
shallow  pan,  smoothed  with  a  palette  knife, 
covered  with  buttered  paper  and  allowed  to 
become  cold,  then  cut  into  even  sized  pieces, 
formed  to  the  shape  of  long  corks,  wrapped 
round  with  a  thin  slice  of  cold  boiled  bacon  or 
udder,  pinned  with  a  toothpick,  dipped  into 
batter  and  fried,  toothpick  then  removed; 
served  with  Perigueux  sauce. 

SALPICON  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  POTATOES 
— Cooked  chicken,  tongue,  mushrooms  and 
tru£9es  cut  into  small  squares  and  made  hot  in 
a  rich  Poulette  sauce;  served,  the  serving  dish 
bordered  with  mashed  potatoes  forced  from  a 
bag  and  fancy  tube,  sprinkled  with  parsley 
dust,  the  salpifon  in  the  center. 

CHICKEN  PATTIES,  SAUCE  SUPREME— 
The  preceding  salpi^on,  but  cut  smaller,  filled 
into  patty  shells;  served  with  Supreme  sauce 
poured  around. 

STEWED  CHICKEN,  GERMAN  STYLE  — 
Old  fowls  singed,  drawn,  washed  and  trussed, 
arranged  in  a  saucepan  with  grated  green  ap- 
ples and  onions,  covered  with  stock,  simmered 
in  hot  oven  till  tender,  Allemande  sauce  made 
from  the  reduced  liquor,  uoodles  boiled  in 
stock  till  tender,  taken  up  and  drained,  then 
mixed  with  some  of  the  sauce;  served,  the 
chicken  masked  with  sauce,  surrounded  with 
noodles. 

CHICKEN  QUENELLE  FORCEMEAT- Raw 
skinless  chicken  meat  with  a  little  beef  suet 
minced,  pounded  together  to  a  paste,  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve  with  some  bread  that  has 
been  soaked  in  milk  and  squeezed  dry,  seasoned 
with  finely  chopped  parsley,  grated  lemon  rind, 
salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg,  worked  to  a  stiff 
consistency  with  raw  egg  yolks  beaten  with  a 
little  cream. 

CHICKEN  QUENELLES  WITH  MUSH- 
ROOMS— The  forcemeat  preceding  made  into 
balls  or  shaped  like  eggs  between  two  dessert 


spoons;  poached  in  white  stock  till  they  float, 
taken  up  and  rolled  in  fried  sifted  bread  crumbs; 
served  surrounded  with  button  mushrooms  in 
V^lout^  sauce. 

RISSOLES  OF  CHICKEN— The  salpi^on  as 
given  for  "Kromeskies"  when  cold,  cut  out 
with  a  circular  cutter,  two  sheets  of  puff  paste 
rolled  out  thin,  the  chicken  placed  over  one 
sheet,  covered  with  the  other,  stamped  out  with 
a  fancy  edged  cutter,  ananged  on  a  baking 
sheet,  brushed  over  with  egg  wash  and  baked. 

SAUTfe  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  BOUCHfeES- 
Spring  chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed,  then 
steamed  for  five  minutes,  then  separated  into 
four  joints  neatly  trimmed,  scraping  the  little 
meat  off  the  wing  and  leg  shanks  to  form 
handles;  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  pow- 
dered thyme,  fried  brown  with  butter,  then  put 
into  Madeira  sauce  and  simmered  till  tender; 
served,  resting  against  a  croiiton  with  frills  on 
the  shanks,  sauce  poured  over  the  meat,  gar- 
nished with  very  small  patties  filled  with 
salpifon. 

VOL-AU-VENT  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  QUE- 
NELLES— Large  patty  shells  with  separate 
covers  filled  with  a  salpifon  of  chicken,  cover 
then  placed  on,  served  with  Madeira  sauce 
poured  under,  and  garnished  with  small 
poached  chicken  quenelles. 

ROAST  BONED  CHICKEN— Large  old  fowls 
and  young  hens  singed,  skin  laid  open  down 
the  back  and  all  bones  removed,  the  old  ones 
then  laid  out  flat  skin  side  down,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  powdered  thyme,  al- 
ternate strips  of  larding  pork  and  red  cooked 
tongue  then  placed  lengthwise  down  the  center, 
then  covered  with  forcemeat,  the  young  hen 
without  skin  laid  on  top  of  it  so  that  the  white 
meat  covers  the  dark  meat  of  the  fowl,  outer 
skin  of  the  fowl  then  drawn  together  and  sewn 
close,  leaving  no  apertures;  again  sewn  up  into 
a  cloth,  steamed  for  an  hour,  cloth  then  re- 
moved, roasted  and  basted  till  well  done  and 
tender,  taken  up,  pressed;  when  cold,  string 
removed,  glazed;  served  cold  in  slices  with 
salad. 

BOILED  BONED  CHICKEN  — Same  as  the 
preceding,  but  instead  of  steaming,  it  is  sim- 
mered till  tender  in  white  stock  containing 
vegetables;  when  done,  taken  up,  pressed  in 
the  cloth;  when  cold,  cloth  and  string  removed, 
all  adhering  grease  removed  with  a  hot  cloth,  it 
is  then  glazed;  served  cold  in  slices  with  salad. 

GALANTINE  OF  CHICKEN— Galantine  molds 
placed  in  a  pan  of  broken  ice,  salt  and  water, 
limpid  aspic  jelly  poured  in  to  coat  the  sides, 
which  is  then  decorated  with  peas,  strips  of 
tongue,  stamped  slices  of  truffle  and  whites  of 
hard  boiled  eggs,  etc.,  the  decorations  then 
coated  with  more  limpid  jelly  and  allowed  to 
set,  the  interior  then  filled  with  slices  of  boned 
chicken  and  limpid  jelly  till  full,   (always  see 


52 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


that  the  slices  of  chicken  are  placed  on  edge, 
NOT  LAID  FLAT!  so  that  when  it  is  turned 
out,  the  slices  may  be  removed  with  the  jelly 
adhering  merely  by  the  use  of  a  fork).  When 
set,  the  mold  is  slightly  warmed  with  a  hot 
cloth,  then  turned  out,  the  dish  garnished  with 
crofltons  of  aspic  jelly,  cress,  crisp  shred  let- 
tuce, fancy  slices  of  pickled  beet,  or  variations 
at  the  cook's  fancy. 

FRIED  BREAST  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  CORN 
FRITTERS— Spring  chickens  singed,  drawn, 
washed  and  simmered  barely  done,  taken  up, 
cooled,  skinned,  breasts  removed,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  powdered  thyme, 
rolled  in  melted  butter,  then  in  flour,  then  in 
beaten  eggs  and  fried  in  hot  fat,  taken  up  and 
drained;  served  with  sauce  Supreme  poured 
under,  and  garnished  with  small  com  fritters 
and  watercress. 

BREAST  OF  CHICKEN  STEAMED,  SAUCE 
SUPREME — Spring  chickens  singed,  drawn, 
washed,  trussed  and  steamed  till  done,  taken 
up,  breasts  removed  and  skinned,  then  put  into 
Supreme  sauce  and  served  with  it,  garnished 
with  kidney  beans  (flageolets). 

BROILED  CHICKEN  LEGS  WITH  GREEN 
PEAS — The  steamed  legs  of  the  preceding  re- 
cipe, skinned,  then  laid  for  an  hour  in  a  mix- 
ture of  olive  oil,  lemon  juice,  red  pepper,  salt 
and  Worcestershire  sauce,  then  broiled  slowly 
to  a  golden  color;  served  with  a  frill  on  the 
shank,  resting  on  a  slice  of  buttered  toast,  gar- 
nished with  French  peas  made  hot  in  tomato 
sauce. 

FRIED  SPRING  CHICKEN  WITH  ARTI- 
CHOKE BOTTOMS— Spring  chickens  singed, 
split  down  the  back,  breastbone  and  backbone 
removed,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled 
in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs  and  fried  in  hot 
fat  till  done;  artichoke  bottoms  spread  with 
chicken  forcemeat  arranged  in  a  safltoir,  moist- 
ened with  a  very  little  consomm^,  reduced  and 
glazed,  the  chicken  served  with  a  little  Colbert 
sauce,  and  garnished  with  the  bottoms. 

FRIED  SPRING  CHICKEN  WITH  HOMINY 
FRITTERS— The  chickens  prepared  and  fried 
as  in  the  preceding;  fine  hominy  boiled  down 
to  mush,  cooled,  cut  in  shapes,  then  breaded 
and  fried,  the  chicken  served  with  cream  sauce 
and  a  strip  of  broiled  bacon,  garnished  with 
the  fritters. 

FRIED  CHICKEN  WITH  RICE  AND  OKRAS 
— Cold  joints  of  cooked  chicken  dipped  in  thick 
cold  tomato  sauce,  then  in  bread  crumbs,  then 
breaded  and  arranged  in  a  buttered  baking  pan, 
roasted  and  basted  with  butter  till  brown  and 
frothy;  rice  boiled  dry,  then  mixed  with  boiled 
fresh  or  canned  okras  and  a  little  tomato  sauce, 
the  chicken  served  with  a  little  tomato  sauce, 
and  garnished  with  small  mounds  of  the  rice 
and  okras  turned  out  of  a  timbale  mold. 

DEVILLED  SPRING  CHICKEN  WITH 
GREEN  PEAS— Spring  chickens  singed,  split 


down  the  back,  breastbone  and  backbone  re" 
moved,  thigh  bone  snapped,  seasoned,  laid  for 
an  hour  in  Worcestershire  sauce,  olive  oil, 
tarragon  vinegar,  chopped  chives  and  chervil, 
taken  up,  rolled  in  flour,  then  in  melted  butter 
and  slowly  broiled  well  done;  served  with 
Diable  sauce,  and  garnished  with  French  peas 
that  have  been  washed,  drained  and  sauteed  in 
butter. 

FILLETS  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  CARDINAL 
SAUCE — Spring  chickens  singed,  split,  breast- 
bone and  backbone  removed,  thigh  bone  snap- 
ped, seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in 
flour  and  fried  a  golden  brown  with  butter; 
served  with  Cardinal  sauce  poured  under  and 
around,  garnished  with  slices  of  truffles  that 
have  been  stewed  in  sherry  wine. 

STUFFED  BREAST  OF  CHICKEN,  P£RI- 
GUEUX  SAUCE— Breasts  of  young  chickens 
split  open  and  filled  with  quenelle  forcemeat, 
arranged  in  a  safltoir  with  slices  of  salt  pork, 
white  stock  and  butter,  simmered  till  tender; 
served  resting  on  fancy  croiitons  with  p^rigueux 
sauce. 

STEWED  CHICKEN,  SAUCE  RAVIGOTE— 
Old  fowls  singed,  drawn,  washed,  jointed,  then 
arranged  in  a  saiitoir  with  nutmeg,  lemon, 
celery  and  sliced  onions,  moistened  with  white 
stock,  lid  put  on,  simmered  in  hot  oven  till 
tender.  Chives,  parsley,  shallots,  chervil  and 
tarragon  shred  and  blanched,  onion  rings 
steamed  till  tender;  served,  the  chicken  with 
ravigote  sauce  poured  around,  garnished  with 
rings  of  onions  filled  with  the  blanched  herbs, 

STEWED  CHICKEN.  SAUCE  PROVENCALE 
— Young  chickens  singed,  drawn,  washed, 
jointed,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled 
in  flour,  sauteed  in  olive  oil  with  minced  shal- 
lots and  garlic,  taken  up  into  another  saiitoir 
with  sliced  tomatoes,  moistened  with  claret 
wine  and  Espagnole  sauce,  simmered  till  ten- 
der, finished  with  lemon  juice  ?nd  chopped 
parsley;  served  with  the  sauce  and  tomatoes. 

SPRING  CHICKEN  IN  BATTER  WITH 
FRIED  ONIONS  — Spring  chickens  singed, 
split,  backbone  and  breastbone  removed,  thigh 
bone  snapped,  blanched  in  white  stock  a  few 
minutes,  taken  up  and  drained,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  powdered  thyme, 
then  dipped  in  batter  and  slowly  fried  in  hot 
fat;  rings  of  onions  steamed  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  dipped  in  milk,  then  flour,  fried  crisp  in 
hot  fat;  served  as  a  garnish  to  the  chicken. 

STUFFED  BREAST  OF  CHICKEN  WITH 
CUCUMBERS  — Breasts  of  spring  chickens 
that  have  been  steamed  whole  not  quite  done, 
trimmed,  spread  with  chicken  forcemeat,  then 
dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  sprinkled  with 
grated  lean  cooked  ham,  minced  trufile  peelings 
and  breadcrumbs,  arranged  in  a  baking  pan, 
moistened  with  a  little  melted  butter,  slowly 
heated  and  browned;  served  garnished  with  a 
pur^e  of  cucumbers. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK.  53 

CHICKEN  SAUSAGES,  SAUCE  HOLLAN-  shred  and  blanched,  both  mixed  and  simmered 
DAISE— Raw  chicken  meat  without  skin  three-  in  a  rich  V^lout6  sauce;  served  on  toast, 
fifths,  cooked  chicken  meat  one-fifth,  cooked  MINCED  CHICKEN  WITH  POACHED  EGG 
tongue  and  mushrooms  mixed  one-fifth,  all  —Cold  cooked  chicken  without  skin  cut  into 
minced  together,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  very  small  squares,  mixed  into  and  heated  with 
nutmeg  and  powdered  thyme,  formed  into  sau-  B^hamel  sauce;  served  on  toast  with  a  trim- 
sage  shapes,  lightly  breaded,  arranged  in  bak-  med  poached  egg  on  top,  the  yolk  sprinkled 
ing  pan   with   bacon    trimmings    and    butter,  with  parsley  dust. 

slowly   roasted   and  basted   till   done;    served  CHICKEN    HASH    WITH    STUFFED    PEP- 

with  Hollandaise  sauce.  PERS— Small  green  peppers  split,  cleaned  and 

SOUFFLES    OF    CHICKEN— Breasts  of  raw  blanched,    filled  with  chicken  forcemeat,   ar- 

chicken    pounded    to    a    paste,    then    rubbed  ranged  in  a  safltoir,   moistened  with  a  little 

through  a  fine  sieve  and  mixed  with  separately  consomm^,  lid  put  on  and  simmered  till  done; 

beaten  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs,  seasoned  with  the  minced  chicken  on  toast  of  the  preceding 

butter,  cream,   salt,   red  pepper,  nutmeg  and  recipe    served     garnished     with     the     stuffed 

lemon  juice,   filled  into  fancy  paper  cases,  the  peppers. 

top   sprinkled   with   sifted  bread  crumbs  and  CHICKEN  FRITTERS,  PIQUANTE   SAUCE 

melted  butter,  slowly  baked,  the  served  imme-  —Cold  roast  tender  chicken  in  joints,  laid  for 

diately.  an  hour  in  vinegar  with  chopped  chives,  taken 

CHICKEN  QUENELLES  WITH  TRUFFLES,  up,  breaded  and  fried;   served  with  Piquante 

SAUCE  SUPREME— Chicken  quenelle  force-  sauce. 

meat   shaped   like   eggs   between   two  spoons,  CHICKEN     PANADA     WITH     EGGS     ON 

poached  in  seasoned  white  stock,  taken  up  and  TOAST —  Cold   cooked  chicken   without   skin 

drained,  then  dipped  in  Supreme  sauce;  served  minced  and  pounded  to  a  paste,   then  rubbed 

with  it,  arranged  on  serving  dish  in  fours,  two  through  a  fine  sieve,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 

ot  them  sprinkled  with  minced  truffle  peelings.  and  nutmeg,  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of 

CANNELON  OF  CHICKEN,  TARTAR  SAUCE  fresh   bread   crumbs,    moistened   with  cream. 

— Cannelon  case  made  of  puff  paste  (see  Can-  made  hot;  served  heaped  high  on  toast  with  a 

nelons)  filled  with  chicken  forcemeat,   slowly  trimmed  poached  egg  on  top. 

heated  through;  served  with  tartar  sauce,  gar-  poTTED  CHICKEN    FOR   SANDWICHES— 

nished  with  watercress.  Two  parts  of  cold  cooked  chicken  meat  without 

CHICKEN  FORCEMEAT  FRIED,  TOMATO  ^kin,  one  part  cooked  ham,  one  part  butter,  the 
SAUCE-Chicken  forcemeat  rolled  with  pointed  ^leat  minced  and  pounded  to  a  paste  with  the 
ends  size  of  a  finger,  resemblmg  a  cigar  m  1,^4^^,  then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  sea- 
shape,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  tomato  ^^^^^  ^^h  mace,  salt,  red  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
s^'^^ce.  packed  into  small  jars,  sealed  with  melted  but- 

SAUTfe    OF    CHICKEN    WITH    RICE    AND  ter.  and  stored  away  in  ice  box  for  use. 

LEEKS -Young    chickens    singed     drawn,  timBALES   OF   CHICKEN   WITH   FORCE- 

washed.  jointed,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  ^^^^^  BALLS-Timbale  molds  lined  with  a 

then  hghlly  sauteed  with   minced  onions  and  ^^  forcemeat,  then  filled  with  scallops  of 

ham  in  butter,  taken  up  into  a  safltoir.    sauce  ^^^.^^^  ^^.^^^^  ^^^  ^^-^^^  ^^  mushrooms  and 

made  in  the  pan   they  were  fried  m,   strained  ^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^^   ^^^^  ^^^^^^^  ^.^^  j^^^^_ 

over  the  chickens,  simmered  till  tender,    rice  ^^^^_  ^^^^^  arranged  in  a  baking  pan  contain- 

boiled  dry:  then  mixed  with  some  of  the  sauce;  .      ^  ,j^^j^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^  ^.^^  ^^^.  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

served  as  a  border  to  the  chicken,    which  is  ^^^  ^.^^  ^^^^^  Bressoise  poured  around,  and 

further  garnished  with  fried  shredded  leeks.  garnished  with  small  balls  of  poached  force- 

CHICKEN  SAUTfe  WITH   POTATO   BALLS  ^^^^ 

—Spring    chickens    singed,    drawn,     washed.  CHICKEN  SAUTfi  WITH   OYSTERS— Large 

steamed  for  five  minutes,    then  taken  up  and  oysters  blanched  and  drained;  young  chickens 

separated  into  four  neat  joints,  seasoned  with  singed,  drawn,  blanched,  jointed,  seasoned  with 

salt  and  pepper,  fried  with  butter  to  a  golden  5^^  ^nd  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  fried  in  butter, 

color;  balls  scooped  out  of  raw  potatoes  steamed  t^ken  up  into  a  saQtoir.  gravy  made  in  the  pan 

nearly  done,  then  fried  in  butter  like  the  chick-  ^^ey  were  fried  in,  using  stock  and  the  strained 

ens,  both  of  which  are  then  sprinkled  with  fine  oyster  liquor,    boiled   up  and  skimmed,    then 

parsley;  served,  the  joints  dipped  in  hot  Col-  strained  over  the  chicken,   which  is  now  sim- 

bert  sauce  surrounded  with  the  potatoes.  mered  till  tender;    the  oysters  sprinkled  with 

CROUSTADES  OF   CHICKEN— Fancy  croiis-  parsley  and  sauteed  in  butter  for  each  order; 

tades  made  of  paste  filled  with  a  salpifon  of  served,  the  chicken  in  joints  garnished  with  tha 

chicken;  garnished  with  watercress.  oysters  saut^es. 

CHICKEN      HASH     WITH     PEPPERS     ON  CAPILOTADE    OF    CHICKEN  —  Cold     roast 

TOAST — Cold  cooked  chicken   without   skin  chickens  cut  into  neatly  trimmed  joints,   ar- 

cut  into  very  small  squares,   green    peppers  ranged  in  a  sautoir,   covered  with  a  brown 


54 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Italian  sauce,  simmered  in  it  for  fifteen  minutes 
then  served  garnished  with  fancy  croiltons. 

COLLOPS  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  MACAR- 
ONI— Cold  cooked  chicken  without  skin  cut 
into  thin  slices  about  the  size  of  a  quarter  of  a 
dollar,  made  hot  in  a  rich  Bechamel  sauce; 
macaroni  broken  into  inch  lengths,  boiled  in 
boiling  salted  water,  taken  up  and  drained, 
then  mixed  with  Parmesan  cheese  and  a  little 
Bechamel  sauce;  served,  the  macaroni  as  a 
border  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust,  the  chicken 
piled  high  in  the  center,  garnished  with  strips 
of  cooked  red  tongue. 

HASHED  CHICKEN  AND  HAM  WITH  RICE 
— Chicken  cut  the  same  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  thin  slices  of  lean  cooked  ham  cut  out 
■with  a  column  cutter,  both  mixed  and  made 
hot  in  V^lout^  sauce.  Rice  washed  and  then 
boiled  in  chicken  broth  till  moisture  is  all  gone 
and  the  grains  soft,  then  mixed  with  a  liaison 
of  egg  yolks  and  Vdlout^  sauce,  seasoned  with 
red  pepper  and  nutmeg;  served,  the  rice  as  a 
border,  the  bam  and  chicken  in  sauce  piled 
high  in  the  center. 

GIBLET  AND  POTATO  PIE— Gizzards,  hearts, 
livers,  necks  and  second  joints  of  the  wings  of 
chickens  stewed  tender  with  pieces  of  salt  pork, 
then  put  in  a  baking  pan  with  slices  of  hard 
boiled  eggs,  chopped  parsley  and  a  glass  of 
sherry  wine,  (having  plenty  of  sauce)  the  pie 
then  covered  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick 
with  mashed  potatoes,  edges  crimped,  washed 
over  with  beaten  egg  and  baked. 

GIBLET  PIE— Pie  pans  lined  on  the  sides  with 
thin  short  pxaste,  filled  with  the  stewed  giblets 
of  the  preceding  recipe,  covered  with  short 
paste,  egg  washed  and  baked. 

GIBLET  POT  PIE— The  preceding  stewed  gib. 
lets  either  kept  hot  in  the  safltoir  and  dump- 
lings dropped  over  it,  lid  put  on  and  simmered 
till  dumplings  are  done;  or  the  stew  turned  into 
a  baking  pan,  the  dumplings  dropped  close 
together  all  over  it,  then  put  in  oven  till  dump- 
lings are  done. 

STEWED  CHICKEN  GIBLETS  WITH  RI3E 
— Hearts,  gizzards,  livers,  necks  and  second 
joints  of  the  wings  of  chickens,  also  small 
pieces  of  raw  salt  pork  and  minced  onions,  all 
fried  lightly  with  butter,  then  sprinkled  with 
flour,  shook  together,  moistened  with  stock, 
simmered  till  tender,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  (which  are  to  be 
removed  when  done);  served  in  the  center  of  a 
border  of  dry  boiled  rice,  or  barley,  or  oatmeal. 

SAUTfi  OF  CHICKEN  LIVERS  ON  TOAST 
— The  livers  with  gall  removed,  washed  and 
wiped,  then  saut^ed  with  minced  onions  in 
butter,  taken  up  into  a  safltoir,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  moistened  with 
Madeira  wine  and  Espagnole  sauce,  simmered 
for  a  few  minutes;  served  on  toast  garnished 
with  croQtons. 


.STEWED  CHICKEN  LIVERS  WITH  MUSH- 
ROOMS— The  preceding  stew  placed  in  the 
center  of  dish  without  toast,  and  served  sur- 
rounded with  button  mushrooms  that  have  been 
saut^ed  in  butter  and  sprinkled  with  chopped 
chervil. 

CHICKEN  LIVERS  IN  CASES  — The  livers 
sautees  above  cut  in  dice,  filled  into  fancy 
paper  cases,  that  have  been  lined  with  chicken 
forcemeat  and  heated;  mushrooms  and  trufifles 
in  dice  to  be  added  to  the  livers. 

CHICKEN  LIVER  FORCE  M  E  AT  —  Equal 
weight  of  blanched  chicken  livers  and  lean 
cooked  ham  with  two  ounces  of  butter  to  each 
pound  of  meat  *^^he  meat  minced,  pounded  to  a 
paste,  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  then  thor- 
oughly incorporated  with  the  butter,  together 
with  a  little  puree  of  mushrooms  and  trufiSes, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  chop- 
ped parsley,  then  stored  for  use. 

BROCHETTE  OR  CROUSTADES  OF  CHICK- 
EN LIVERS— For  recipes  of  which  see  "BRO- 
CHETTE" and  "CROUSTADE". 

OMELET  OF  CHICKEN  LIVERS— The  livers 
blanched  then  cut  in  slices  with  mushrooms, 
sauteed  in  butter,  moistened  with  wine  and 
brown  sauce,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
lemon  juice,  sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley, 
enclosed  within  a  savory  omelet;  served  with 
more  of  the  livers  in  sauce  poured  around. 

ROAST  CHICKEN  LIVERS  ON  TOAST— 
Blanched  chicken  livers  masked  all  over  with 
"chicken  liver  forcemeat"  then  wrapped  in 
buttered  paper,  arranged  in  a  baking  pan  and 
baked  for  fifteen  minutes,  taken  up,  paper  re- 
moved; served  on  toast  with  Madeira  sauce 
poured  around. 

RAGOUT  OF  CHICKEN  GIBLETS  WITH 
POTATO  CROQUETTES  —  Livers,  hearts, 
gizzards,  pieces  of  salt  pork  and  button  mush- 
rooms sauteed,  then  mixed  with  Madeira  sauce, 
placed  in  center  of  dish  garnished  with  small 
potato  croquettes. 

GIBLET  SAUCE— Gizzards,  hearts  and  necks 
boiled  till  tender  with  an  onion,  livers  blanched, 
then  sauteed  with  butter,  taken  up,  sauce  made 
in  the  pan  they  were  sauteed  in  with  the  stock 
from  the  giblets;  livers,  hearts  and  meat  from 
the  gizzards  then  cut  fine  and  mixed  into  the 
sauce,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
finished  with  sherry  wine  and  chopped  parsley. 

CHICKEN  GIBLET  SOUP— Gizzards,  hearts, 
necks  and  wings  boiled  till  tender  with  some 
roast  fowl  bones  in  chicken  stock,  hearts  and 
gizzards  then  taken  up  and  cut  into  dice  to- 
gether with  some  sauteed  livers,  roux  made  and 
moistened  with  the  stock,  boiled  up  and  skim- 
med; washed  rice,  finely  cut  carrots,  turnips, 
and  onions  then  boiled  in  the  soup  till  tender, 
then  is  added  the  cut  meats;  finished  by  sea- 
soning with  Worcestershire  sauce,  sherry  wine, 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK 


PURfiE  OF  CHICKEN— Roux  made  and  moist- 
ened with  chicken  stock,  cream  and  almond 
milk,  when  boiling,  further  thickened  with  some 
cooked  chicken  meat  that  has  been  pounded 
and  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  seasoned  with 
salt,  nutmeg  and  red  pepper;  small  squares  of 
cooked  breast  of  chicken  then  added;  served 
with  small  crofltons. 

CHICKEN  SOUP  WITH  VEGETABLES  — 
Cold  roast  fowl  bones  and  gravy  with  some 
vegetable  trimmings  boiled  in  stock  till  well 
flavored,   roux  made  and  moistened  with   the 


55 

soned  with  salt  and  red  pepper,  then  strained 
into  another  saucepan,  containing  flowerets  of 
cooked  cauliflower  balls  of  cooked  carrot, 
pieces  of  chicken  meat,  and  some  poached 
quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat,  half  of  them  to 
be  colored  green. 
PURfiE  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  TOMATOED 
QUENELLES  — A  puree  of  chicken  soup 
strained  into  another  saucepan  containing 
poached  quenelles  that  have  had  a  stiff  tomato 
pur^e  worked  into  the  forcemeat;  seasoned  and 
served. 


strained  stock,  boiled  up  and  skimmed,  shred-   CHICKEN  SOUP  WITH  RICE  AND  LEEKS 


ded  cooked  vegetables  and  shreds  of  chicken 
then  added  and  served. 

CHICKEN  CONSOMMfe  — A  few  veal  bones 
and  chopped  veal  trimmings,  slices  of  carrot, 
onions,  celery,  with  whole  mace,  salt,  red 
pepper,  broken  egg  shells  and  beaten  whites  of 
eggs,  stirred  together  with  a  little  broken  clean 
ice,  then  moistened  with  skimmed  and  strained 
poultry  stock  that  has  had  a  piece  of  salt  pork 
boiled  in  it,  brought  slowly  to  the  boil,  then 
simmered  till  clear,  strained  through  a  towel; 
small  squares  of  breast  of  cooked  chicken  then 
added,  seasoned  (but  use  no  wine)  and  served. 

CHICKEN  BROTH  WITH  RICE— The  strained 


-Poultry  stock  slightly  thickened  with  roux, 
plenty  of  shredded  leeks  boiled  in  it  with  some 
rice;  when  done  and  seasoned,  pieces  of  chicken 
meat  added.  (The  Scotch  call  this  soup 
• 'COCK-A-LEEKIE"). 
CHICKEN  SOUP,  CREOLE  STYLE  —  Raw 
chicken  meat  cut  into  small  pieces  and  fried 
with  minced  onions  in  olive  oil,  then  little  flour 
added,  stirred,  moistened  with  consomme, 
boiled  up  and  skimmed,  then  is  added  shred 
lean  ham  and  green  peppers,  simmered  for  half 
an  hour,  then  raw  peeled  and  sliced  tomatoe? 
together  with  well  washed  rice  and  a  bunch  of 
soup  herbs  is  simmered  in  it  till  done. 


and  skimmed  stock  in  which  fowls  and  a  piece    CHICKEN   SOUP,  PORTUGUESE   STYLE- 


of  salt  pork  and  some  vegetables  have  been 
boiled,  is  slightly  thickened  with  corn  starch, 
dry  boiled  rice,  and  pieces  of  chicken  meat 
then  added,  seasoned  and  served. 

CHICKEN  GUMBO  — Roast  chicken  bones, 
minced  onion  and  some  ham  knuckle  meat  fried 
in  butter  with  a  few  bay  leaves  and  a  pod  of 
red  pepper,  flour  then  added,  moistened  with 
poultry  stock,  boiled  up  and  skimmed,  a  half 
roasted  chicken  then  added  and  simmered  till 
tender;  chicken  then  taken  up  and  the  stock 
strained  into  another  saucepan  in  which  is 
either  canned  okra,  okra  powder,  or  fresh  okra 
sliced,  also  some  boiled  rice  and  pieces  of 
chicken  meat;  boiled  up  till  greeny  and  gela- 
tinous; seasoned  and  served. 

CREAM  OF  CHICKEN— Some  veal  bones  and 
trimmings  with  a  little  whole  mace,  celery  and 
onions  are  boiled  in  poultry  stock,  cold  cooked 
chicken  meat  pounded,  then  rubbed  through  a 
sieve,  moistened  with  the  skimmed  and  strained 
stock,  boiled  up,  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper 
and  nutmeg,  then  finished  with  some  boiling 
cream. 

CREAM  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  RICE— Roux 
made  and  moistened  with  strong  poultry  stock, 
boiled  up  and  skimmed,  little  boiling  cream 
then  added  together  with  pieces  of  chicken 
meat  and  dry  boiled  rice;  seasoned  with  salt 
and  red  pepper. 

CREAM  OF  CHICKEN  WITH  QUENELLES 
— Roux  made  and  moistened  with  poultry 
stock,  boiled  up  and  skimmed,  then  is  worked 
into  it  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream;  sea- 


Raw  chicken  meat  cut  small  together  with 
minced  onions  fried  in  butter,  flour  added  and 
stirred,  moistened  with  poultry  stock,  boiled 
up  and  skimmed,  then  is  added  a  Julienne  of 
vegetables  and  a  little  well  washed  rice,  sim- 
mered till  done,  seasoned  and  served. 

CHICKEN  SOUP,  SOUTHERN  STYLE— Raw 
chicken  meat  cut  small,  minced  onions,  shred- 
ded green  peppers  all  fried  together  with  butter, 
little  flour  then  added  and  stirred,  moistened 
with  poultry  stock,  seasoned  lightly  with  curry 
powder,  salt  and  red  pepper,  boiled  up  and 
skimmed,  then  is  added  equal  quantities  of  lima 
beans  and  sugar  corn  together  with  half  their 
bulk  of  okras;  simmered  till  done. 

CHICKEN  SOUP,  TURKISH  STYLE— Shred- 
ded raw  chicken  meat,  ham  and  green  peppers 
with  sliced  onions  fried  together  with  butter, 
little  flour  added  and  stirred,  moistened  with 
consomm^,  boiled  up  and  skimmed,  seasoned 
with  si.It,  red  pepper  and  a  dash  of  curry  pow- 
der, then  is  added  washed  rice  and  tomato 
puree  equaling  half  the  bulk  of  the  stock;  when 
rice  is  done,  served. 

CHICKEN  SOUP,  ENGLISH  STYLE  — Roux 
made,  moistened  with  poultry  stock,  boiled  up 
and  skimmed,  then  is  added  a  liaison  of  egg 
yolks  and  crea:m,  when  thickened,  strained  into 
a  tureen  containing  squares  of  cooked  chicken 
meat  and  chopped  chervil,  seasoned  and  served. 

CHICKEN  BROTH  WITH  CUSTARDS  — 
Good  poultry  stock  seasoned,  then  lightly  thick- 
ened with  corn  starch,  strained  into  a  tureen 
containing  a  macedoine  of  vegetables  and  shapes 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


of  custard  made  by  taking  twelve  yolks  of  eggs 
and  a  pint  of  cold  chicken  broth  seasoned  with 
salt  and  red  pepper,  thoroughly  mixed  without 
beating,     then     poured     into    buttered    pans, 
steamed  till  set.  cut  into  shapes  when  cold. 
CHICKEN  BROTH  WITH   ASPARAGUS 
TIPS — Same  as  the  preceding,  using  the  shapes 
of  custards  but  substituting  asparagus  tips  for 
the  macedoine  of  vegetables. 
CHICKEN  BROTH    WITH    SPRING   VEGE- 
TABLES— Strong  poultry  stock  thickened  very 
lightly  with  corn  starch,    seasoned,   boiled  up 
and   skimmed,    then    further    thickened    with 
young   tender   carrots,    turnips,    green  onions, 
leeks  and  green  cabbage  all  cut  into  small  dice- 
boiled  in  the  stock  with  a  handful  of  rice  tir 
done,  then  is  added  squares  of  chicken  meat; 
seasoned  and  served. 
CHICKEN  BROTH   WITH   ARTICHOKES— 
Strong  poultry  stock  thickened  lightly  with  corn 
starch,  seasoned,  boiled  up  and  skimmed,  then 
further  thickened  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks 
and  cream,  strained  into  a  tureen  with  chicken 
meat  and  diced  artichokes. 
CHICKEN  BROTH  WITH  POACHED  EGG— 
Same  as  "Chicken   Broth  with  Custards"  but 
substituting  a  soft  poached  egg  for  each  plate. 
CHICKEN  BROTH  WITH   SORREL- Strong 
poultry  stock  thickened  with  a  liaison  of  egg 
yolks    and   cream,    seasoned,    strained   into   a 
tureen  containing  boiled  vermicelli  and  stewed 
sorrel. 
CHICKEN  SOUP  WITH  NOODLES  — Strong 
poultry  stock  thickened  with  flour  and  butter, 
seasoned  with  salt,    red   pepper   and   nutmeg, 
straining  it  afterwards  into  a  tureen  containing 
boiled  noodles,  chopped  chervil  and  pieces  of 
chicken  meat. 
CHICKEN  BROTH  WITH  ONIONS  — Thick- 
ened poultry  stock  seasoned,  then  strained  into 
a  tureen  containing  very  small  boiled  onions 
and  green  peas. 
CHICKEN    SOUP    WITH    PEAS    PUR£E  — 
Fresh  green  peas  boiled  with  a  bunch  of  green 
mint  in  chicken  stock,  thickened  lightly  with 
roux,  mint  then  removed,  and  the  souj^  rubbed 
through  a  fine  sieve,  boiled  up  again  and  skim- 
med, seasoned,  then  strained  into  a  tureen  con- 
taining chopped  chervil  and  shred  lettuce. 
CHICKEN  SALAD— Tender,  juicy  cold  cooked 
chicken  cut  into  small  dice,  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  hearts  of  celery,  mixed,  seasoned  with 
salt,   red  pepper,   mayonnaise  and  a  dash   of 
tarragon  vinegar;  a  cold  serving  dish  rubbed 
with  garlic,  covered  with  crisp,  tender,  lettuce 
leaves,  salad  placed  in  the  center  masked  with 
mayonnaise,  smoothed,  decorated  with  capers, 
beetroot  and  hard  boiled  egg. 
CHICKEN  SALAD— Round  croquettes  made  of 
chicken,  ham,  tongue,  mushrooms  and  truffles, 
breaded  and  fried,   allowed   to  become  cold, 
then  split  in  halves  and  set  around  a  bed  of 


mixed  shredded  lettuce  and  endive,  seasoned 
with  French  dressing. 

CHICKEN  SALAD— Two  parts  of  mayonnaise 
and  one  part  of  limpid  aspic  jelly  beaten  to- 
gether, individual  patty  pans  or  timbale  molds 
decorated  and  lined  with  the  beaten  mixture, 
then  filled  with  scallops  of  chicken  dressed  with 
Remoulade  sauce,  a  few  capers  and  slices  of 
stoned  olives,  covered  with  some  of  the  beaten 
mixture,  set  till  firm,  then  turned  out  on  to  a 
bed  of  shredded  lettuce  garnished  with  shred- 
ded anchovies  and  gherkins. 

CHICKEN  MAYONNAISE— Cold  roast  chickens 
cut  into  joints,  steeped  for  an  hour  in  a  mixture 
of  salt,  pepper,  olive  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar, 
then  taken  up  and  masked  with  mayonnaise 
sauce,  served  on  shred  lettuce,  garnished  with 
quartered  hard  boiled  eggs,  pickled  beets  and 
stoned  olives  or  pimentoes. 

CHICKEN  MAYONNAISE  — Boned  roasted 
chicken,  pressed,  sliced,  coated  with  mayon- 
naise, served  garnished  with  green  peas  and 
asparagus  points  that  are  dressed  with  French 
dressing,  and  cubes  of  savory  jelly. 

CHIFFONADE— French  term  for  a  mixture  of 
shredded  sorrel,  lettuce,  chervil  and  parsley 
that  is  used  to  put  in  soups  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore serving  them. 

CHIPOLATA — Name  of  an  Italian  garnish  com- 
posed of  little  veal  sausages,  glazed  balls  of 
carrot  and  turnip,  roasted  and  peeled  chestnuts, 
pieces  of  broiled  bacon  and  button  mushrooms, 
all  mixed  into  a  rich  brown  sauce  flavored  with 
sherry  wine. 

CHIVES — A  flavoring  herb  of  the  onion  species, 
grows  like  the  tops  of  spring  onions,  deep  green 
in  color  and  very  strong  in  flavor;  such  dishes 
as  "Civet  of  Rabbit",  "Ragout  of  Hare",  etc., 
are  strongly  impregnated  with  chives. 

CHOCOLATE— A  wholesome,  nutritive  flesh 
forming  article  of  food,  greatly  used  in  confec- 
tionery, icings,  cakes,  etc.;  when  served  as  a 
drink  it  is  made  into  a  paste  with  milk,  then 
boiling  milk  added  to  the  consistency  of  thin 
cream,  allowed  to  simmer  for  a  few  minutes 
before  serving. 

CHOCOLATE  BLANC-MANGE  —  Milk  and 
sugar  brought  to  the  boil  in  two  separate  sauce- 
pans, then  corn  starch  mixed  with  milk  beaten 
into  both,  one  to  be  flavored  with  vanilla,  the 
other  to  have  melted  chocolate  and  a  little 
butter  beaten  into  it,  molds  dipped  into  cold 
water,  the  chocolate  mixture  poured  in  half 
way  up,  then  the  vanilla  used  to  fill  with,  set 
to  cool,  turned  out,  served  with  sweetened  and 
vanilla  flavored  cream. 

CHOCOLATE  CREAM  FRITTERS— The  choc- 
olate part  of  the  preceding  recipe  made  a  little 
stiffer  than  for  blanc-mange,  turned  into  shal- 
low pans,  allowed  to  set  till  firm  and  cold,  then 
cut  into  shapes,  double  breaded  and  fried, 
served  dusted  with  powdered  sugar  and  with 
apricot  marmalade  or  sauce  poured  around. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CHOCOLATE  CAKE— One  pound  each  of  but- 
ter, powdered  sugar  and  grated  chocolate, 
sugar  and  butter  creamed  together,  chocolate 
dissolved  in  a  pint  of  milk,  then  worked  into 
the  cream  with  eight  yolks  of  eggs,  three-quart- 
ers of  a  pound  of  flour  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
baking  powder  and  the  whipped  whites  of  eight 
eggs  then  lightly  stirred  in,  poured  into  but- 
tered and  papered  pans,  slowly  baked  till  done, 
about  one  hour. 

CHOCOLATE  CREAM— Three  pints  of  double 
cream  whipped  stiff,  to  which  is  then  added 
sugar  to  taste,  one  ounce  of  gelatine,  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  half  a  pound  of  melted  chocolate, 
poured  into  molds,  and  set  on  ice;  the  tops  of 
molds  may  be  decorated  before  pouring  in  the 
cream. 

CHOCOLATE  ICE  CREAM  —  Pure  cream 
sugared  to  taste,  half  a  pound  of  chocolate  to 
the  gallon,  the  chocolate  dissolved  and  mixed 
into  some  LUKEWARM  cream,  then  strained 
into  the  sweetened  cream,  flavored  slightly  with 
vanilla,  strained  into  a  freezer  and  frozen. 

CHOCOLATE  CUP  CUSTARDS— Two  quarts 
of  milk,  four  ounces  of  chocolate  and  one  pound 
of  sugar  mixed  and  brought  to  the  boil,  six 
yolks  of  eggs  and  two  ounces  of  corn  starch 
worked  together  with  a  little  milk,  the  boiling 
mixture  stirred  into  it,  put  back  on  the  range 
and  stirred  till  it  just  thickens,  then  flavored 
with  vanilla,  poured  through  a  conical  stramer 
into  cups;  when  all  filled,  the  cups  arranged 
into  a  baking  pan  containing  a  little  water 
baked  slowly  till  done,  served  cold  with  cream 
poured  around. 

CHOCOLATE  ICING  —  One  pound  of  sifted 
sugar  (powdered)  and  six  whites  of  eggs  thor- 
oughly beaten  till  stiff,  then  flavored  with  van- 
illa and  four  ounces  of  melted  chocolate. 

CHOCOLATE  PUDDING  — Same  mixture  as 
given  for  "Chocolate  Cup  Custards"  baked  in 
a  pan,  served  cold  with  whipped  cream,  or 
sweetened  and  flavored  plain  cream. 

CHOCOLATE  PUDDING— One  pound  each  of 
butter  and  sugar  creamed  together,  ten  egges 
worked  into  the  cream  one  at  a  time,  fourteen 
ounces  of  sifted  flour  and  two  ounces  of  grated 
chocolate  then  lightly  stirred  in,  flavored  with 
vanilla,  poured  into  buttered  molds,  steamed 
till  done,  served  hot  with  sauce. 

CHOCOLATE  FLOAT— Small  cold  "Chocolate 
Cup  Custards"  turned  out  into  deep  sauce  dish, 
surrounded  with  a  piping  of  whipped  cream 
the  cream  then  decorated  with  colored  win, 
jelly  chopped  fine. 

CHOUX-PASTE— Is  the  name  of  a  batter  made 
of  a  pint  of  water,  eight  ounces  of  lard  or  but- 
ter, nine  ounces  of  flour  and  ten  eggs.  Water 
and  lard  is  brought  to  the  boil,  flour  then 
added  all  at  once  and  worked  over  the  fire  till 
it  is  cooked  into  a  smooth  paste,  allowed  then 
to  slightly  cool,  the  eggs  then  beaten  in  one  at 
a  time;  its  consistency  must  be  so  that  it  will 


just  fall  off  from  a  spoon;  from  it  is  prepared 
"Bell  Fritters",  "Queen  Fritters",  "Cream 
Puffs  and  Eclairs",  "Spanish  Puffs",  "Pra- 
lines", "Croquenbouchees",  "Choux  Croutons", 
etc.,  etc. 

CHOW  CHOW— One  gallon  each  of  cut  string- 
less  beans,  very  small  white  onions,  green 
gherkins  and  flowerets  of  cauliflower,  two 
pounds  of  dry  mustard,  two  gallons  of  white 
wine  vinegar,  two  ounces  each  of  turmeric  and 
mustard  seed,  two  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  pint 
of  olive  oil.  The  cauliflower,  beans  and  onions 
boiled  separately  till  tender,  the  gherkins 
soaked  in  strong  salted  water  for  one  day,  then 
mixed  together  and  filled  into  crocks;  the  vine- 
gar brought  to  the  boil,  mustard  and  turmeric 
mixed  and  moistened  with  a  little  vinegar,  then 
stirred  into  the  boiling  vinegar;  when  it  begins 
to  thicken,  the  mustard  seed,  sugar  and  oil  are 
stirred  in,  poured  boiling  hot  over  the  vege- 
tables in  the  crocks,  then  put  away  for  use. 

CHUTNEY— A  table  condiment  imported  from 
the  East  Indies,  and  purchasable  at  the  grocery 
stores  in  bottles,  may  be  made  as  follows:  One 
and  a  half  pints  of  vinegar,  two  ounces  of  whole 
ginger  bruised,  one  ounce  each  of  chilies  and 
mustard  seed,  two  ounces  of  salt  and  twelve 
ounces  of  sugar  all  boiled  together  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour,  then  strained  through  a 
hair  sieve.  Put  the  strained  vinegar  to  boil 
again  with  one  large  onion  shredded,  one 
crushed  clove  of  garlic,  six  shallots,  two  ounces 
of  seedless  raisins  and  two  pounds  of  peeled 
and  sliced  apples,  boil  until  they  are  quite  soft, 
then  put  into  stone  jars,  tie  over  with  skin  or 
parchment  paper  and  keep  for  use. 

CIDER — Apple  juice  obtained  by  pressure,  then 
fermented  and  matured. 

CINNAMON — A  spice  which  may  be  purchased 
ground  or  in  stick  form,  used  as  a  flavoring  for 
cakes,  puddings,  liqueurs,  cordials,  syrups, 
sauces,  etc. 

CISCO— One  of  the  small  fish  of  the  lakes,  re- 
sembling in  size  and  appearance  the  fresh  water 
herring. 

FILLETS  OF  CISCO  IN  BATTER— The  fish 
scaled  and  filleted  free  from  bone,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped  into  a  thin  batter, 
fried;  served  with  or  without  tomato  sauce  and 
garnished  with  parsley  and  lemon. 

BROILED  CISCO,  LEMON  PARSLEY 
SAUCE  — The  fish  scaled,  drawn,  washed, 
wiped  and  the  sides  scored,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  rolled  in  olive  oil,  then  in  flour, 
broiled  and  basted  till  done;  served  with  mfiitre 
d'hotel  butter  poured  over,  and  garnished  with 
lemon  and  chip  potatoes. 

CISCO  SAUTfi,  JULIENNE  POTATOES— 
Prepared  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  rolled  in 
flour,  slowly  fried  a  delicate  brown  with  butter, 
served  with  some  of  the  butter  over  it,  gar- 
nished with  Julienne  potatoes,  lemon  and 
parsley. 


58 


THE  CULINAEY  HANDBOOK. 


CITRIC  ACID— A  crystal  obtained  from  acid 
fruits;  used  by  confectioners  and  caterers,  pop 
and  soda  water  manufacturers.  Street  vendors 
at  the  fairs  simply  dissolve  it  in  water,  sweeten 
it,  fill  it  into  glasses,  place  a  thin  slice  of  lemon 
in  and  sell  it  for  lemonade;  also  flavor  it  with  a 
little  oil  of  raspberry,  strawberry,  etc.,  adding 
a  drop  or  two  of  carmine,  and  sell  it  as  rasp- 
berryade,  strawberryade,  etc. 

CITRON — A  large  fruit  of  the  lemon  species, 
the  peel  is  blanched,  then  boiled  in  syrup  and 
subsequently  dried;  Used  in  cakes,  puddings, 
ices,  jellies,  cordials,  liqueurs,  etc. 

CITRON  CAKE— One  pound  each  of  butter  and 
sugar  creamed  together,  ten  eggs  then  worked 
in  one  at  a  time,  then  a  wine  glass  of  brandy, 
one  pound  of  sifted  flour,  and  half  a  pound  of 
shredded  citron. 

CLAMS — A  favorite  American  shellfish,  the 
"Little  Neck"  clam  being  the  favored  kind  for 
eating  from  the  shell,  the  large  hard  clams  for 
soups  and  chowders,  and  the  soft  clam  for 
broiling  and  frying. 

CLAM  CHOWDER— Salt  pork  cut  into  dice  and 
fried  till  light  brown.  Fish  broth  and  clam 
liquor  in  equal  parts  brought  to  the  boil,  skim- 
med, sliced  onions  and  potatoes  then  put  in  and 
boiled  till  barely  done,  then  is  added  the  fried 
salt  pork  and  scalded  clams  cut  in  dice;  sea- 
soned with  pepper,  ground  mace  and  salt; 
brought  to  the  boil  again,  and  poured  to  an 
equal  quantity  of  thin  white  sauce;  finished 
with  a  few  rolled  crackers  and  chopped  parsley. 

PHILADELPHIA  CLAM  CHOWDER  — Like 
the  preceding  but  substituting  tomatoes  and 
tomato  sauce  for  the  white  sauce  and  adding  a 
flavor  of  thyme. 

CLAM  BROTH-  May  be  made  to  order  at  rest- 
aurants by  simply  chopping  some  large  clams 
and  scalding  them  in  clam  liquor,  then  straining 
into  the  serving  bowl  or  cup. 

CLAM  STEW— Plain  or  with  milk  or  cream; 
generally  sold  in  restaurants  by  the  half  or 
dozen  (it  is  customary  to  give  seven  and  four- 
teen to  the  half  or  dozen);  scald  the  clams  with 
clam  liquor,  take  off  the  scum,  pour  into  a 
bowl,  add  a  piece  of  butter  and  serve,  if  for 
plain;  if  for  a  milk  or  cream  stew,  scald  the 
milk  or  cream  separately,  pour  the  clams  and 
liquor  into  the  bowl  first,  then  add  an  equal 
quantity  of  the  milk,  season  with  butter  and 
serve  with  crackers. 

ROAST  CLAMS— May  be  either  served  in  the 
shell  or  on  toast.  Large  clams  washed,  ar- 
ranged on  baking  sheet,  put  in  hot  oven  till 
they  open.  If  served  in  the  shell  the  top  shell 
is  removed,  the  clam  separated  from  the  lower, 
little  melted  butter  then  placed  in  each  and 
served.  If  to  be  served  on  toast,  the  toast 
should  be  cut  in  strips,  buttered,  the  clams 
placed  neatly  on  it,  melted  butter  brushed  over 
them;  served  with  lemon  and  crackers. 


BROILED  CLAMS— The  soft  clam  is  best  for 
this  dish,  but  the  ordinary  large  clam  is  ser- 
viceable; they  should  be  drained,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped  in  melted  butter 
then  rolled  in  fresh  sifted  bread  crumbs,  broiled; 
served  on  toast,  garnished  with  lemon  and 
watercress. 

FRIED  CLAMS— Drained,  seasoned,  dipped  in 
melted  butter,  rolled  in  sifted  bread  crumbs, 
then  in  beaten  eggs  and  again  in  crumbs;  fried 
in  clear  butter  or  in  hot  fat;  served  garnished 
with  lemon  and  watercress. 

STEAMED  CLAMS  — Large  clams  scrubbed, 
arranged  on  the  wire  false  bottom  of  a  fish 
kettle  with  a  little  water  under  them,  lid  then 
put  on,  placed  over  a  quick  fire;  when  the 
upper  shell  is  loosened,  it  is  removed,  the  clam 
separated  from  the  lower,  little  melted  butter 
put  in  each,  served  very  hot  with  lemon  and 
crackers. 

CLAM  FRITTERS— Soft  clams  seasoned,  then 
dipped  in  batter  and  fried;  or  large  clams 
chopped,  then  mixed  in  batter  and  fried  by 
spoonfuls  in  hot  fat;  served  with  a  cream  sauce 
made  with  clam  liquor. 

SCALLOPED  CLAMS — Clams  scalded  and  cut 
into  neat  pieces,  sauce  made  of  their  liquor, 
the  clams  mixed  in,  and  either  filled  into  large 
clam  or  scallop  shells,  the  tops  sprinkled  with 
sifted  crumbs  and  melted  butter,  then  browned 
in  the  oven;  served  in  the  shell. 

CLAM  CROQUETTES— Scalded  clams  cut  into 
small  neat  pieces  (not  chopped).  Thick  sauce 
made  of  the  liquor,  the  cut  clams  put  back 
into  it;  when  thoroughly  reheated,  poured  into 
a  buttered  shallow  pan,  smoothed  with  a  knife, 
covered  with  a  sheet  of  greased  paper  and 
allowed  to  become  cold  and  set,  then  cut  in 
even  sized  pieces,  shaped,  breaded,  fried; 
served  with  a  clam  sauce  poured  around. 

CLAM  FORCEMEAT  —  Scalded  clams  finely 
minced  with  an  equal  quantity  of  canned  mush- 
rooms, a  little  minced  onion  fried  in  butter, 
flour  added,  moistened  with  the  clam  and 
mushroom  liquor,  boiled  up,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  little  dry  mustard,  a  suspicion  of  garlic, 
and  some  chopped  parsley;  then  is  added  the 
clams  and  mushrooms,  boiled  up  slowly  for  ten 
minutes,  remove  and  work  in  a  few  beaten  egg 
yolks  till  of  a  stiff  consistency,  put  away  to  cool 
for  use. 

FRICASSfeE  OF  CLAMS— The  clams  scalded 
in  their  own  liquor,  then  strained,  equal  amount 
of  milk  and  liquor  boiled  separately,  flour  and 
butter  in  a  saucepan  seasoned  with  red  pepper 
and  a  little  nutmeg  moistened  with  the  liquor, 
then  finished  to  the  desired  consistency  with 
the  boiling  milk;  when  boiled  up,  finished  with 
a  few  beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  the  clams  cut  either 
in  halves  if  small,  or  in  neat  pieces  if  large, 
added  to  the  sauce;  served  either  on  toast,  or 
with  a  border  of  fancy  mashed  potatoes,  or  in 
scallop  shells. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


S9 


CLAM  SOUP— CREAM  OF  CLAMS— Same  as 
the  preceding  recipe,  but  having  the  soup  of 
the  consistency  of  thin  cream;  when  serving,  a 
sprinkling  of  chopped  parsley  or  celery  leaves 
put  into  each  plate. 

BE  CAREFUL  NOT  TO  LET  THE  SOUP 
OR  FRICASSfiE  BOIL  AFTER  THE  EGGS 
ARE  IN  OR  IT  WILL  CURDLE,  AND  YOU 
CANNOT  BRING  IT  BACK  TO  SMOOTH- 
NESS WITHOUT  YOU  SPOIL  THE  FLAVOR. 
CLARET — Name  of  a  Southern  French  wine  so 
called  abroad  on  account  of  its  color  which  is 
distinctive.  Used  generally  as  a  common  din- 
ner wine,  although  its  best  brands  cannot  be 
too  well  eulogised.  Its  use  in  cookery  is  largely 
for  flavoring  sauces,  soups,  braising  meats  and 
fish,  and  for  ices  and  jellies. 
CLOVES — Name  of  a  valuable  spice  obtained 
from  the  buds  of  the  tree.  Used  in  its  whole 
form  tor  seasoning  many  stews,  sauces,  soups, 
especially  turtle  soup,  where  it  takes  the  place 
of  the  herb  BASIL.  It  is  a  valuable  addition 
to  apple  dumplings,  pies  and  sauces;  in  its 
ground  state  is  often  adulterated  with  pimentos 
and  other  inferior  spices.  The  word  clove  is 
also  used  to  designate  a  clove  or  section  of 
garlic. 
COBBLER — Name  used  in  cookery  to  designate 
a  kind  of  pie  used  as  a  sweet  entree;  also  in 
the  bartenders'  guide  to  designate  certain 
mixed  drinks. 
COCOA — Name  of  a  bean  obtained  from  the 
cocoa  tree,  from  which  is  manufactured  the 
cocoa  of  commerce;  used  in  cookery  as  a 
breakfast  and  supper  beverage;  also  the  ex- 
pressed oil  of  the  nut  is  used  as  cocoa  butter, 
chiefly  by  confectioners. 
COCOANUT--AS  generally  seen  in  this  country 
is  in  shell  form  devoid  of  its  fibrous  husk.  The 
shell  when  broken  shows  the  enclosed  nut; 
this  is  used  in  cookery  (after  having  its  dark 
skin  removed)  chiefly  by  confectioners  in  mak- 
ing cakes,  puddings,  ices,  macaroons,  etc. ;  can 
be  purchased  for  such  work  in  dessicated  form. 
The  milk  of  the  cocoanut  as  the  liquid  is 
called,  is  a  valuable  flavoring  for  curries,  muUi- 
gatawney  soup,  almond  soup,  etc. 
COCOTTE — Name  used  in  cookery  to  designate 
a  way  of  cooking  eggs.  The  cocotte  cups  have 
been  recently  placed  on  the  market;  they  are 
in  cup  form  without  handles  and  with  screw 
covers;  the  cups  when  to  be  used  are  slightly 
buttered,  the  eggs  broken  in  (keeping  the  yolks 
whole)  a  spoonful  of  cream  poured  carefully 
over  them,  the  lid  screwed  on,  the  cups  then 
placed  into  boiling  water  or  into  a  steamer; 
they  require  two  minutes  longer  than  is  re- 
quired for  boiled  eggs;  they  are  sent  to  the 
table  in  the  cup  and  the  lid  is  simply  loosened. 


guest.  The  foreign  term  for  this  method  of 
cooking  eggs  is  (OEUFS  A  LA  COCOTTE). 

COCHINEAL  —  Name  of  an  insect  obtained 
chiefly  from  the  shores  of  PHONOECIA;  used 
in  cookery  as  a  red  coloring.  For  recipe  see 
"Carmine". 

COCHON — A  term  used  sometimes  on  bills  of 
fare  to  designate  PIG,  such  as  "pied  de  cochon" 
pigs  feet;  "cochon  de  lait"  suckling  pig,  etc. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE— Name  given  by  the  Scotch 
people  for  a  soup  io  which  a  cock  fowl  and 
leeks  form  the  principal  ingredients. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE  SOUP— Young  fowls  (cocks 
or  hens)  washed,  trussed  and  lightly  roasted, 
then  put  into  a  white  stock  of  veal  or  chicken 
with  some  white  parts  of  shredded  leeks,  salt, 
and  a  few  whole  peppers;  when  the  fowls  are 
nearly  done,  they  are  taken  up,  the  meat  picked 
into  shreds  and  placed  into  another  saucepan 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  shredded  leeks, 
the  stock  the  fowls  were  boiled  in  being  then 
strained  over;  this  is  then  brought  to  the  boil, 
skimmed,  then  simmered  till  the  leeks  are 
tender  (about  half  an  hour),  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  served. 

COCKS-COMBS— Called  by  the  French  "Cretes 
de  coq"  are  the  crests  of  the  male  domestic 
fowl  cut  off  and  blanched;  used  in  cookery  as 
•  parts  of  certain  garnitures;  are  of  no  value  as 
a  flavor,  but  are  valuable  as  pleasing  the  eye 
while  the  sauce  tickles  the  palate;  may  be  pur- 
chased at  the  large  groceries  already  for  use 
in  bottles,  generally  mixed  with  the  cocks  ker- 
nels (Spanish  fries). 

COCKS  KERNELS— The  testicles  of  the  male 
domestic  fowl,  situated  in  the  middle  of  the 
back  of  the  bird;  when  to  be  cooked,  they  ara 
washed,  blanched,  skinned,  and  made  into 
fricassees,  suprdmes,  breaded  and  fried,  com- 
ponent parts  of  garnitures,  etc.  Often  called 
by  gourmets,  "Spanish  fries";  purchasable  in 
bottles  combined  generally  with  cocks-combs. 

COCKLES— Name  of  an  English  shellfish  similar 
in  shape  and  flavor  to  the  "little  neck  clam" 
are  imported  into  this  country  in  small  flat 
cans  (cooked).  To  be  used  they  are  taken  from 
the  can  and  thoroughly  washed  in  cold  water 
to  rid  them  of  a  sandy  sediment,  they  can  then 
be  frizzled  in  butter  and  served  very  hot  op 
toast  garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley,  or 
mixed  into  cream,  HoUandaise,  Supreme  or 
Normande  sauces  and  served  either  on  toast  or 
in  crodstades,  paper  cases,  with  rice,  or  border 
of  shrimps,  or  they  may  be  curried  and  served 
with  a  border  of  rice.  They  are  practically 
new  to  the  American  public,  and  nnless  well 
washed  from  their  sediment  will  not  be  much 
called  for. 


so  as  to  be  removed  by  the  guest  at  his  or  her   COCKTAILS— Name  of  a  mixed  drink;  also  ap* 
pleasure,  or  by  the  waiter  at  the  request  of  the       plied  in  cookery  to  oysters  and  clams. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


OYSTER  COCKTML— Half  a  dozen  freshly 
opened  small  oysters  dropped  into  a  sherbet 
glass,  seasoned  with  a  dash  each  of  tabasco, 
Worcestershire,  tomato  and  Harvey  sauces. 

CLAM  COCKTAIL— Same  as  the  preceding, 
using  clams  for  oysters  and  omitting  the  Har- 
vey sauce  on  account  of  its  saline  flavor. 

NEPTUNE  COCKTAIL— Three  each  freshly 
opened  small  oysters  and  clams  dropped  into  a 
sherbet  glass,  seasoned  with  a  few  shreds  of 
fresh  horseradish,  a  dash  each  of  tomato  and 
walnut  catsups,  and  a  dash  each  of  Worcester- 
shire and  tabasco  sauces. 

CODFISH— A  staple  salt  water  fish  fit  for  hotel 
use  all  the  year  round;  caught  on  the  New 
England  coast  and  in  vast  numbers  off  the 
shores  of  Newfoundland.  The  Newfoundland 
fisheries  make  a  specialty  of  salting,  drying 
and  smoking  it,  besides  making  /'caviar"  of 
its  roe  and  extracting  the  oil  from  its  liver. 

BAKED  CODFISH.  CAPER  SAUCE— On  ac- 
count of  its  size  the  fish  after  cleansing  is  best 
cut  into  portion  pieces,  seasoned  with  sa't  and 
pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  then  dipped  into  melted 
bacon  fat  or  olive  oil,  arranged  on  a  baking 
pan,  baked  and  browned  on  both  sides,  the 
head  boiled  with  an  onion  and  grated  carrot; 
butter  sauce  made  from  the  liquor,  into  which 
is  then  added  capers  and  caper  vinegar;  fish 
served  garnished  with  lemon  and  parsley,  with 
the  sauce  at  one  end  of  the  fish. 

BAKED  CODFISH  STUFFED  WITH  OY- 
STERS— Small  cod  about  six  pounds  each, 
heads  and  fins  removed,  inside  filled  with  an 
oyster  stufi&ng,  sewn  up,  the  back  and  sides 
scored  into  portions,  arranged  in  pan  with  a 
few  shredded  vegetables,  moistened  with  a  little 
fish  broth,  brushed  over  with  butter,  baked  and 
basted  till  done  and  glazy;  served  garnished 
with  a  potato  croquette  and  oyster  sauce  poured 
around. 

BAKED  CODFISH,  BREADCR  UMBED  — 
Slices  of  the  fish  free  from  bones,  laid  for  an 
hour  in  a  mixture  of  olive  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper,  then  taken  up  and  drained,  dipped  in 
butter,  breadcrumbs,  beaten  eggs  and  again 
breadcrumbs,  arranged  in  baking  pan,  moist- 
ened with  a  little  white  wine  and  oyster  liquor, 
baked  a  golden  brown;  served  garnished  with 
Duchesse  potatoes  and  lemon,  with  HoUandaise 
sauce  poured  around. 

BOILED  CODFISH.  EGG  SAUCE— The  fish 
cut  into  portion  pieces,  washed,  then  laid 
in  salted  water  for  an  hour,  taken  up  and 
put  to  boil  in  cold  salted  water  and  milk; 
as  soon  as  the  flesh  is  firm  it  is  done, 
take  up,  drain,  serve  garnished  with  boiled 
small  potatoes  and  egg  sauce  poured  around. 
Other  good  sauces  to  serve  with  boiled 
cod    are     oyster.     Bechamel     and     Holland- 


BOILED  COD  STEAK  WITH  ANCHOVIES 
— Sells  well  in  restaurants.  Cod  steaks  about 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  in  weight,  laid  in 
salted  water  for  an  hour,  then  boiled  in  salted 
water  and  milk,  taken  up  and  drained  well; 
served  garnished  with  HoUandaise  potatoes, 
butter  sauce  containing  plenty  of  shredded 
salt  anchovies  poured  over  the  steak.  (Flem- 
ish and  Aurora  sauces  also  go  well  with  a 
boiled  cod  steak.) 

FRIED  COD  STEAK,  TOMATO  SAUCE— 
The  steaks  laid  in  salted  water  for  an  hour, 
then  taken  up  and  wiped  dry;  dipped  in  melted 
butter,  then  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  fried  a 
golden  color  in  oil;  served  garnished  with  Juli- 
enne potatoes  and  tomato  sauce  poured  around. 

COD  STEAK  BREADCRUMBED,  PARSLEY 
SAUCE— The  steaks  laid  in  salted  water  for  an 
hour,  then  taken  up  and  wiped  dry,  sprinkled 
with  a  little  lemon  juice,  dipped  in  beaten 
eggs  and  fresh  breadcrumbs,  arranged  in  a 
buttered  pan,  brushed  over  with  melted  butter 
or  bacon  fat,  baked  and  turned  so  that  both 
sides  are  brown;  served  with  parsley  sauce  at 
end  of  dish,  and  garnished  with  Parisienne 
potatoes 

FRIED  COD  CUTLET,  PIQUANTE  SAUCE 
— Steaks  cut  from  the  middle  of  the  fish, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped  in 
melted  butter,  rolled  in  flour,  fried  in  pan  with 
bacon  fat,  served  with  Piquante  sauce  at  one 
end,  Saratoga  chips,  lemon  and  parsley  at  the 
other. 

BROILED  COD  STEAK,  COLBERT  SAUCE 
— The  steaks  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
dipped  in  melted  butter,  rolled  in  flour,  slowly 
broiled  till  done;  served  with  Colbert  sauce 
poured  around  and  garnished  with  lemon  and 
parsley,  also  some  fancy  fried  potatoes. 

CURRIED  COD  STEAK  WITH  RISSOTO— 
Good  way  to  use  the  tail  steaks:  cut  them  half 
an  inch  thick,  fry  them  a  golden  brown  with  a 
little  minced  onion,  then  place  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan, flour  and  curry  then  added  to  the  butter 
and  onions  they  were  fried  with,  stirred,  moist- 
ened with  equal  parts  of  fish  broth  and  cream, 
boil  up,  skim,  add  a  little  anchovy  essence, 
strain  the  sauce  over  the  steaks,  put  on  range 
and  simmer  for  a  few  minutes;  serve  with  the 
sauce  over  and  garnish  with  small  molds  of 
rissoto. 

CREAMED  FRESH  COD  ON  TOAST— 
Shoulders  and  tails  of  cod  are  often  bought  up 
cheap;  boil  them  with  an  onion  in  salted  water 
and  milk,  when  cool,  remove  all  skin  and  bones, 
keeping  the  flakes  whole;  cream  sauce  made 
from  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in,  finished 
with  a  few  beaten  eggs,  the  fish  flakes  then  re- 
heated but  not  boiled;  served  on  toast  sprinkled 
with  chopped  parsley,  and  garnished  with  :;trips 
of  toast. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


6z 


SCALLOPED  FRESH  CODFISH— The  pre- 
ceding recipe  filled  into  scallop  shells  or  oval 
deep  dishes,  the  top  sprinkled  with  tnixed  grated 
cheese  and  sifted  breadcrumbs,  then  with 
melted  butter,  baked  a  delicate  brown  and 
served. 

CRIMPED  COD,  SHRIMP  SAUCE— To  crimp 
a  cod  it  must  be  fresh  caught,  then  instantly 
killed,  cut  and  notched  with  a  knife,  then 
boiled  in  salt  water  and  milk;  served  with 
shrimp  sauce  poured  around  and  garnished 
with  quartered  hard  boiled  eggs,  and  small 
potatoes  sprinkled  with  MSitre  d" Hotel  butter. 

COD  STEAK  SAUTE,  CLUB  STYLE— Steaks 
cut  from  the  middle  of  the  fish,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  dipped  in  melted  batter,  rolled 
in  flour,  fried  a  pale  color  in  clear  melted  but- 
ter, taken  up  and  drained,  placed  on  serving 
dish,  the  outer  edge  of  the  top  garnished  with 
fine  parsley  dust  forming  a  horse  shoe,  lobster 
coral  placed  down  the  centre,  and  Irianon 
sauce  poured  around. 

BOILED  CODFISH  TONGUES,  EGG  SAUCE 
— The  tongues  steeped  for  a  whole  day,  then 
blanched  for  ten  minutes,  taken  up,  masked 
with  egg  sauce  ;  served  on  toast. 

SCALLOPED  FRESH  CODFISH  TONGUES 
— The  steeped  tongues  blanched  for  ten  minutes, 
a  thick  Poulette  sauce  made  from  the  blanching 
stock,  tongues  then  mixed  into  it,  filled  into 
scallop  shells  or  deep  oval  dishes,  the  top 
strewn  with  mixed  chopped  parsley,  grated 
cheese  and  bread  crumbs,  browned  and  served. 

FRICASSfeE  OF  COD'S  SOUNDS  WITH 
OYSTERS— The  sounds  blanched  till  nearly 
done  in  salted  milk  and  water,  taken  up  and 
drained,  the  oyster  then  blanched  in  the  strained 
stock ;  cut  the  sounds  after  blanching  to  the 
size  of  the  oysters ;  Poulette  sauce  made  from 
the  blanching  stock,  to  which  is  then  added  the 
fish  ;  served  on  toast  with  a  dusting  of  finely 
chopped  parsley. 

STUFFED  CODS  SOUNDS,  OYSTER  SAUCE 
« — The  sounds  blanched  and  allowed  to  cool, 
then  spread  with  an  oyster  forcemeat  (see 
oysters) ;  when  spread,  coiled  around  and 
pinned  with  a  small  skewer,  rolled  in  flour, 
then  in  melted  butter  and  then  in  sifted  bread- 
crumbs, arranged  in  a  buttered  baking  pan, 
roasled  and  basted  with  butter  till  brown  and 
frothy  ;  served  very  hot  with  oyster  sauce. 

BOILED  COD'S  ROES,  BUTTER  SAUCE— 
The  roes  blanched  and  skinned,  then  simmered 
till  done  in  hot  water  with  a  dash  of  vinegar ; 
served  with  a  good  butter  sauce  containing  a 
little  anchovy  essence  and  chopped  parsley. 

BROILED  COD'S  ROES,  BUTTER  SAUCE— 
The  roes  blanched  and  skinned,  then  rolled  in 
flour  and  fried  in  butter ;  served  with  the  sauce 
of  the  preceding  recipe  with  an  addition  of 
chopped  capers. 

FRIED  CODS  ROES,  CAPER   SAUCE— The 


roes  blanched  and  skinned,  then  rolled  in  flour 
and  fried  in  butter ;  served  with  a  strained 
piquante  sauce  well  reduced  with  caper  vinegar 
and  then  add  chopped  capers. 

SMOKED  COD'S  ROES— Are  best  either  split 
and  broiled,  or  split  and  fried  in  butter  ;  served 
with  Miitre  d' Hotel  butter  poured  over,  gar- 
nished with  lemon. 

BOILED  SALT  COD,  CREAM  SAUCE— Bone- 
less codfish  steeped  over  night,  boiled  up,  water 
thrown  away,  again  boiled  up  using  cold  water; 
when  done,  taken  up  and  drained;  served  with 
cream  sauce  poured  over,  garnished  with  plain 
boiled  potatoes  or  with  potatoes  in  their  skins. 

SALT  COD  SHREDDED  AND  CREAMED— 
The  fish  prepared  as  in  the  preceding,  then 
pulled  into  shreds,  mixed  into  a  reduced  cream 
or  cream  sauce  ;  served  on  very  hot  toast,  with 
a  dusting  of  chopped  parsley. 

CODFISH  BALLS  ;  OR  CODFISH  CAKES— 
The  shredded  codfish  of  the  preceding  and  an 
equal  quantity  of  well  maslied  fresh  boiled 
potatoes,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg, bound  with  a  few  yolks  of  eggs,  mixed 
well,  made  into  small  flattened  cakes,  rolled  in 
flour,  fried  brown  in  bacon  fat ;  served  with  a 
slice  of  bacon,  and  a  little  cream  sauce  poured 
around. 

SCRAMBLED  SALT  COD  ON  TOAST— The 
cod  steeped,  double  blanched,  shred,  lightly 
fried  in  butter,  seasoned  with  red  pepper,  equal 
quantity  of  cream  and  beaten  eggs  then  mixed 
and  stirred  into  the  fish,  scrambled  ligthly; 
served  very  hot  on  buttered  toast. 

SCALLOPED  SALT  COD,  (COD  AU  GRATIN) 
— The  shredded  and  creamed  cod  filled  into 
scallop  shells  or  deep  oval  dishes,  sprinkled 
with  mixed  grated  cheese  and  sifted  bread- 
crumbs, browned  in  the  oven  or  under  a  sala- 
mander. 

CODFISH  CHOWDER— Can  be  made  with 
either  fresh  or  salt  fish ;  if  the  salt  soak  it  over 
night,  blanch  it  twice  so  as  to  extract  the  salt, 
fry  some  small  pieces  of  salt  pork  with  an  onion 
minced,  when  of  a  light  color,  remove  from  the 
fire,  add  the  fish  in  flakes  (freed  from  bone), 
some  raw  peeled  potatoes  cut  in  squares,  a  sea- 
soning of  thyme,  marjoram,  pepper  and  a  can 
of  tomatoes,  fill  the  saucepan  half  full  with  fish 
broth,  put  on  the  lid,  place  in  oven  and  let  it 
simmer  for  an  hour,  take  out,  and  work  in  with- 
out breaking  the  potatoes  an  equal  quantity  of 
thin  cream  sauce,  add  a  little  chopped  parsley 
and  serve.  (After  the  cream  sauce  is  in  it  must 
not  be  allowed  to  boil  again  or  it  will  curdle). 

COD  AND  OYSTER  PIE,  FRENCH  STYLE— 
Fresh  boiled  cod  in  flakes,  scalded  oysters 
added,  mixed  with  Aurora  sauce,  kept  hot  in 
bain-marie,  platter  shaped  pieces  of  puff  paste 
split,  cod  and  oysters  in  sauce  placed  on  the 
lower  crust,  covered  with  the  upper  crust  and 
served  very  not. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CODFISH  TONGUE  PATTIES— The  tongues 
steeped  and  blanched,  then  fried  with  butter, 
drained,  mixed  with  tomato  sauce,  filled  into 
hot  patty  shells  and  served. 

SALT  CODFISH  HASH,  NEW  ENGLAND 
STYLE — The  shredded  and  creamed  cod  pre- 
viously mentioned  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity 
of  potatoes  cut  in  thin  strips  like  matches, 
which  are  then  boiled  in  cream;  when  done  and 
well  reduced,  mixed  with  the  fish  and  served 
very  hot  on  toast. 

COFFEE— The  national  breakfast  beverage;  to 
be  well  made  use  a  high  grade  of  coffee,  per- 
fectly roasted,  properly  ground,  twelve  ounces 
to  the  gallon  of  water  for  morning  coffee,  while 
for  after  dinner  coffee  (which  is  generally  served 
in  small  cups)  sixteen  ounces  to  the  gallon  is 
required;  fresh  boiling  water  the  moment  it 
reaches  the  bubbling  point,  then  only  a  little  at 
first  to  open  the  pores  of  the  coffee  and  get  it 
ready  to  receive  the  remainder,  which  is  to  be 
put  on  a  little  at  a  time  until  ALL  the  good  and 
NONE  of  the  bitterness  itannin)  is  extracted, 
for  if  it  be  too  strong  for  some,  it  can  easily  be 
diluted  with  boiling  water  when  in  the  cups; 
HOT  cups  first,  then  the  sugar,  then  warmed 
milk  (not  boiled),  then  the  coffee,  and  if  afforded, 
put  on  the  top  a  teaspoonful  of  whipped  cream, 
then  you  have  a  veritable  nectar;  the  cream 
cleaves  to  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  and  the  coffee 
slips  down  "like  the  oil  down  Aaron's  beard". 

COFFEE  ICE  CREAM— One  quart  of  fresh  made 
and  cooled  coffee,  with  three  pounds  of  pow- 
dered and  sifted  sugar  to  each  gallon  of  pure 
cream,  mixed,  strained  into  the  freezer  and 
frozen. 

COGNAC  pronounced  KONEYAK— The  term 
used  by  tue  French  for  brandy. 

COLBERT — Name  given  to  a  sauce  and  a  soup. 
Sauce  made  of  a  pint  of  good  Espagnole,  into 
which  is  mixed  a  little  meat  glaze,  lemon  juice, 
chopped  parsley,  and  red  pepper,  made  very  hot 
without  being  boiled,  then  very  gradually  beaten 
in  a  half  pint  of  clear  melted  butter.  The  soup 
is  made  with  a  rich  consomm^  and  contains 
shredded  celery  and  lettuce  blanched,  diced 
artichoke  bottoms  and  small  button  onions. 

COLBERT  SOUP— Another  way  is  to  make  a 
rich  cream  soup  lighMy  thickened  with  a  liaison 
of  egg  yolks  and  cream,  into  which  is  then 
worked  a  pure4  of  blanched  hearts  of  endive,  a 
fresh  soft  poached  egg  being  served  with  each 
portion. 

COMPOTE — A  term  used  in  cookery  to  signify 
something  whole  in  a  sauce.  Hence  a  compote 
of  fruit  is  the  fruit  either  whole,  or  split  and  the 
stone  or  core  removed,  dropped  into  a  thick 
boiling  syrup  till  cooked  without  breaking, 
cooled,  served  with  the  syrup.  A  compote  of 
birds  such  as  larks,  reedbirds,  ortolans,  etc.  are 
the  birds  boned  and  stuffed,  then  lightly 
roasted,  then  finished  cooking  in  a  bright  sauce; 
served  with  the  sauce. 


CONDE— pronounced  KONDAY— Term  applied 
to  a  dish  of  stewed  apricots  served  with  rice; 
also  to  a  soup  of  puree  ol  red  haricot  beans, 
which  dishes  it  is  said  the  "Prince  of  Conde" 
originated. 
CONSOMMfi — Name   applied   in   cookery   to   a 
strong  clarified  soup,  the  different  consommes 
seen  on  bills  of   fare,  called   Consomme   a  la 
this  and  a  la  that,  simply  terrorizes  the  guests 
as  Well  as  the  young  cooks,  and  are  merely  sig- 
nificant  of   the   different   garnitures   that    are 
placed  in  the  soup  or  plate  before  being  served, 
or  else  the  flavor  of  the  principal  meat  of  which 
the  consomm^  was  made.     The  ingredients  for 
a  good   general  every  day  consomme  is   here 
given. 
CONSOMM6   INGREDIENTS- To   make   five 
gallons  (which  quantity  should  serve  loo  guests) 
take  fifteen  pounds  of  LEAN  beef  trimmings, 
six    medium    sized    peeled  carrots,    same    of 
onions,  twelve   leeks,   two  heads   of  celery,    a 
bunch  of  parsley  and  a  gallon  of  tomatoes  all 
chopped  fine,  mix  with  them  after  chopping, 
one    tablespoonful  of   whole    peppers,  twelve 
cloves,  six  bay  leaves,  eighteen  beaten  whites 
of  eggs  and  their  shells,  a  little  salt,  then  add 
stirring  all  the  time,  eight  gallons  of  good  stock 
free  from  fat,  COLD,  or  if  hot,  place  a  chunk 
of  ice  in  the  saucepan  before  pouring  in  the  hot 
stock.     Next,  place  saucepan  on  the  range,  add 
three  hens,   (they  can  be  used  as  salads  after) 
fetch  to  a  slow  simmer  and  reduce  to  about  five 
gallons  in  four   hours,  then  strain   through   a 
consomme  towel  (double  cheese  cloth). 
In     the     following   numerous  consommes   there 
will    be   stated   certain   flavors  such  as  "veal," 
"chicken,"     "game,"    "mutton,"    "vegetable," 
"fish,"  etc.     When  the  recipe  has  this  statement, 
it  means  that  the  stock  besides  containing  the  in- 
gredients mentioned  for  making  consomme  should 
have  an  extra  supply  of  the  flavor  called  for,  so 
that  it  will  be  distinct  from  the  ordinary  flavor  of 
plain  consomm^. 

CONSOMMfe  AFRICAINE— Cooked  artichoke 
bottoms  and  egg  plant  cut  in  small  squares, 
kept  hot  in  consomme,  spoonful  placed  in  each 
plote  at  time  of  serving;  a  teaspoonful  of  curry 
powder  to  each  gallon  of  stock  should  be  mixed 
with  the  ingredients  before  boiling  so  as  to  give 
the  soup  a  light  curry  flavor. 
CONSOMMfi  ANDALOUSE— After  the  plain 
consomm^  is  strained  and  seasoned,  some  well 
washed  pearl  tapioca  is  simmered  in  it  till  per- 
fectly clear;  small  poached  quenelles  of  force- 
meat are  kept  hot  in  a  little  consomm^,  and  one 
or  two  added  to  each  plate  at  time  of  serving; 
the  soup  should  have  strong  tomato  flavor  with 
a  suspicion  of  garlic. 
CONSOMMfe  ANGLAISE—  Plain  consomm^ 
made  with  plenty  of  veal  bones  to  give  it  a  gela- 
tinous taste;  served  with  green  peas  and  small 
squares  of  white  chicken  meat  in  each  plate. 
CONSOMMfi  BAGRATION— Make  two  sepa 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


rate  consemm^s,  one  plain,  the  other  with 
plenty  of  fish  heads,  when  both  are  strained 
and  seasoned,  mix  together,  so  that  the  fish 
flavor  slightly  predominates;  when  serving,  a 
spoonful  of  the  following  mixture  is  placed  in 
each  plate  of  soup;  small  fish  quenelles,  tails  of 
crayfish,  flakes  of  small  fish,  and  small  cut  vege- 
tables of  the  season. 

CONSOMMfe  BEAUVILLIERS— Soup  of  vege- 
table flavor,  served  with  slices  of  stuffed  cucum- 
bers and  small  squares  of  toast.  To  stuff  the 
cucumbers,  cut  off  the  ends,  remove  the  seedy 
part  with  a  column  cutter,  fill  it  with  any  force- 
meat you  have  on  hand,  then  simmer  in  milk 
and  water  till  done,  remove  and  drain,  and  when 
cold  cut  in  thin  slices, 

CONSOMMfe  BOURDALOUE— A  chicken-flav- 
ored soup  served  with  small  squares  of  cooked 
chicken  breast,  green  peas,  circular  thin  slices 
of  rice  that  has  been  mixed  with  egg  yolks  and 
montpelier  butter,  then  steamed  and  sillowed  to 
become  cold. 

CONSOMMfe  BARIGOULE— A  game-flavored 
soup  seasoned  with  sherry  wine,  and  served 
with  slices  of  stuffed  olives  together  with  slices 
of  button  mushrooms. 

CONSOMMfi  BRUNOISE— A  vegetable-flav- 
ored soup  served  with  green  peas,  very  small 
squares  of  carrot,  turnip  (white  and  yellow) 
celery  and  artichokes. 

CONSOMMfe  BOURGEOISE— To  the  con- 
somm^  ingredients  is  added  a  couple  of  ham 
knuckles,  thus  giving  the  soup  a  slight  ham 
flavor.  It  is  served  with  shred  cooked  cabbage, 
leeks,  very  small  balls  of  potatoes,  and  minute 
squares  of  carrot,  turnip  and  celery. 

CONSOMMfi  CARfeME— A  plain  consomm^ 
flavored  with  Madeira  wine  and  served  with 
small  sippets  of  toast,  together  with  small  cir- 
cular slices  of  cooked  carrot,  white  and  yellow 
turnip,  finely  shred  lettuce,  sorrel  leaves  and  a 
sprinkling  of  chopped  chervil. 

CONSOMMfi  CELESTINE— A  plain  consomm^ 
flavored  with  sherry  wine,  served  with  small 
sandwiches  of  the  following:  Make  six  French 
pancakes,  spread  three  with  forcemeat  and 
grated  cheese,  place  the  other  three  on  top, 
then  stamp  them  with  a  medium-sized  column 
cutter. 

CONSOMMfe  CHATELAINE— A  plain  con- 
somme served  with  green  peas,  shredded  string 
beans  and  squares  of  custard,  made  of  one  pint 
of  onion  puree,  24  egg  yolks,  salt,  red  pepper, 
mixed  and  steamed. 

CONSOMMfi  CHANTILLY— A  bunch  of  fresh 
mint  should  be  boiled  with  the  consomm^  in- 
gredients, the  soup  to  be  served  with  blanched 
rings  of  green  onion  tops,  and  small  squares  of 
a  stiff  pur^e  of  green  peas. 

CONSOMMfi  WITH  CHOUX— A  plain  con- 
somme served  with  green  peas,  slices  of  button 
mushrooms  and  small  balls  of  choux  paste  made 
like  stoned  olives,  the  centre  filled  with  force- 


meat  and  baked  ten  minutes. 

C0NS0MM£  CHIFFONADE  — a  vegetable 
flavored  soup  served  with  shredded  cabbage 
and  lettuce,  thin  strips  of  carrot  and  turnip, 
together  with  green  peas. 

CONSOMMfi  CLAREMONT  — A  plain  con- 
somm^  served  with  small  rings  of  onions  that 
have  been  dipped  in  milk,  then  flour,  then  fried 
crisp  ;  together  wiih  Royal  custards  cut  in 
squares  or  circles,  made  of  ten  yolks  of  eggs, 
two  whole  eggs,  and  half  pint  of  cold  consomm^; 
mixed  together,  not  beaten;  slowly  steamed  till 
set. 

CONSOMMfi  COLBERT  — A  plain  consomm6 
served  with  a  freshly  poached  egg,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  small  cut  vegetables  of  the  season. 

CONSOMM6  WITH  CELERY  —  Plenty  of 
celery  trimmings  should  be  boiled  with  the  con- 
somm^  ingredients,  the  soup  served  with  a 
spoonful  of  shredded  cooked  celery,  thin  strips 
of  tongue,  mushrooms  and  a  little  dry  boiled 
rice. 

CONSOMM6  CUSSY— With  the  consomm^  in- 
gredients should  be  boiled  plenty  of  game  trim- 
mings to  give  the  soup  a  game  flavor.  It  is 
served  with  small  blanched  and  peeled  chest- 
nuts, a  small  timbale  of  game  forcemeat  mixed 
with  mushrooms,  finished  with  a  little  Madeira 
wine. 

CONSOMMfe  DUCHESSE- Strain  off  a  plain 
consomm^,  then  thicken  it  with  corn-starch 
mixed  with  water,  simmer  it  till  it  is  perfectly 
clear  and  gelatinous;  it  is  then  served  with 
strips  of  white  chicken  meat ;  the  soup  to  be  of 
strong  chicken  flavor. 

CONSOMMfi  WITH  DARIOLES— A  consomm^ 
of  strong  chicken  flavor  served  with  quarters  of 
darioles  made  of  a  pound  of  lean  grated  ham, 
half  a  cupful  of  Soubise  pur^e,  half  a  cupful 
of  tomato  pur^e,  two  whole  eggs,  eight  yolks 
of  eggs,  a  wine  glass  of  Madeira  wine,  same  of 
cold  consomme,  with  a  dash  of  red  pepper; 
make  the  whole  into  a  paste,  then  rub  it  through 
a  fine  sieve,  fill  dariole  molds,  steam  till  set, 
cut  in  quarters  when  cold,  and  serve  with  the 
soup  together  with  green  peas. 

CONSOMMfi  DESCLIGNAC— A  plain  con- 
somm^  flavored  with  sherry  wine,  served  with 
circular  slices  of  Royal  custards. 

CONSOMMfi  DOUGLAS— A  plain  consomm^ 
served  with  shreds  of  cooked  celery,  red  tongue, 
mushrooms  and  a  little  dry  boiled  rice. 

CONSOMMfe  DUBORG — A  plain  consomm^ 
served  with  dry  boiled  rice  and  some  fancy 
shapes  of  Royal  custards. 

CONSOMMfi  D'ORSAY- A  strong  chicken 
flavored  consomm^  served  with  an  egg  poached 
in  consomm^,  together  with  very  small  cut 
vegetables  of  the  season. 

CONSOMMfi  DAUMONT— A  sherry  wine-flav- 
ored consomm6  served  with  small  pieces  of 
cooked  chicken  breast,  sweetbread,  red  tongue 
and  tops  of  button  mushrooms. 


54 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CONSOMMfi  EPICURE— A  strong  consomm^ 
of  game-flavor,  seasoned  with  Madeira  wine, 
and  served  with  a  freshly  poached  egg  in  each 
plate. 

CONSOMMfi  OF  GAME— The   preceding,  but 


CONSOMMfi  WITH  MACARONI— A  roast  poul- 
try stock  should  be  used  to  make  the  consomm^; 
when  strained  off  and  seasoned,  served  with 
macaroni  that  has  been  boiled,  washed,  drained, 
and  then  cut  into  quarter-inch  pieces. 


in  place  of  the  egg,  it  is  served  with  quenelles   cONSOMMfe      MILANAISE— The      preceding 


or  raviolis  made  of  uncooked  partridge  one  part, 
cooked  calf's  brains  one  part,  Parmesan  cheese 
half  part,    yolks   of    eggs   to    bind,    pounded, 
rubbed    through    a    fine    sieve,    molded    into 
quenelles  and  poached. 
CONSOMMfe  GAMBETTA— A  chicken-flavored 
consomm^  served  with  a  poached  yolk  of  egg, 
and  three  quenelles  of  veal,  one  of  its  natural 
color,  the  others  being  colored  red  and  green 
respectively. 
CONSOMMfi  INDIENNE— Sameas  "consomm^ 
Africaine"  adding,  however,  strips  of  cooked 
chicken  breast  and  a  little  dry  boiled  rice. 
CONSOMMfe  IMPERATRICE-A  strong  chicken 
flavored  consomm^  served  with  a  freshly  poached 
egg  in  each  plate. 
CONSOMMfi  ITALIENNE— A  plain  consomm^ 
slightly  flavored  with  tomatoes  and  a  suspicion 
of  garlic;   served  with  green  peas  and   small 
pieces  of  well  washed  macaroni. 
CONSOMMfi  IMPERIAL— A  chicken   flavored 
consomm^  served  with  green;  peas,  asparagus 
points  and  small  quenelles  of  chicken  forcemeat. 
CONSOMMfi  JULIENNE— A  vegetable  flavored 
consomm^  served   with   fine   shreds   of    green 
stringless  beans,  carrot,  turnip,  cabbage,  celery, 
leeks,  spring  onions,  and  green  peas,  the  vege- 
tables should  be  saut^ed  in  butter  first,  before 
simmering  them  in  the  consomm^. 
CONSOMMfe  JOINVILLE— A  strong  consomm^ 

well  flavored  with  fish  heads,  pounded  lobster    ^  """"'"', a    xTTTrT-1-.xT  »  tot- 
heads  and  shells;   when  strained  off.  seasoned   CONSOMMfi    NIVERNAISE 
with  white  wine,  served  with  small  pieces   of 
lobster  and  croutons  souffles. 
CONSOMMfe  KURSEL— A  vegetable  flavored 
consomm^  served  with  a  spoonful  of  cooked 
green  peas,  asparagus  tips,  shred  lettuce,  cut 
stringless  beans,  flageolets  and  green  onions. 
CONSOMMfe  MARIE  STUART— A  mutton  flav- 
ored consomm6  served  with  a  spoonful  of  well 
washed,   cooked  pearl  barley,    and  small   cut 
vegetables  of  the  season. 
CONSOMMfe  MACEDOINE— A  chicken    flav- 
ored consomm^  served  with  a  mixture  of  vari- 
colored vegetables  cut  in  very  small  squares,  or 
else  use  the  canned  macedoines. 
CONSOMMfe  MAGENTA— A  plain  consomm^ 
slightly  colored  with  tomato  juice,  to  which  is 


made  consomm6  served  with  the  addition  to  the 
macaroni,  one  inch  lengths  of  boiled  smoked 
tongue;  a  butter  chip  full  of  Parmesan  cheese 
should  be  served  separately. 

CONSOMMfe  MONTE  CARLO— A  rich  chicken 
flavored  consomm^  served  with  slices  of  cooked 
vegetables  stamped  out  with  cutters  represent- 
ing clubs,  spades,  hearts  and  diamonds;  also 
circular  slices  of  chicken  forcemeat  that  is  dotted 
with  truffles  to  represent  dominoes;  also  circu- 
lar slices  of  cooked  beetroot,  carrot  and  turnip 
representing  poker  chips. 

CONSOMMfe  MEFICIS— A  rich  chicken  flavored 
consomm^  lightly  thickened  with  corn  starch; 
served  with  a  freshly  poached  egg  in  each  plate, 
together  with  a  canape  or  small  patty  of  chicken 
forcemeat  served  separately. 

CONSOMM6  MONTMORENCY— A  rich  flav- 
ored chicken  consomm^  served  with  noodles, 
small  balls  of  chicken  forcemeat,  and  some  let- 
tuce leaves  spread  with  chicken  forcemeat  rolled 
up  like  cigarettes  and  braised. 

CONSOMM6  NAPOLITAINE— A  game  flavored 
consomm^  to  which  is  added  Madeira  wine, 
served  with  small  cut  and  washed  macaroni, 
cooked  celery  cut  in  small  squares,  and  small 
croutons  of  toast. 

CONSOMMfe  WITH  NOODLES— A  rich  chick- 
en flavored  consomm^  served  with  finely  shred 
noodles. 

A  plain  con- 
somm6  flavored  with  sherry  wine;  served  with 
small  quenelles  of  veal,  together  with  fancy 
Italian  paste,  and  a  macedoine  of  vegetables. 

CONSOMMfi  NAUDIER  -A  rich  chicken  fla- 
vored consomm^  served  with  small  quenelles  of 
chicken  forcemeat  of  different  colors;  to  make 
which,  take  some  chicken  forcemeat  and  divide 
it  into  four  parts;  into  the  first  work  some  finely 
chopped  truffle  peelings;  the  second  finely 
minced  red  tongue;  the  third,  chopped  parsley; 
the  fourth,  minced  yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs. 

CONSOMMfi  NILSSON— A  rich  chicken  fla- 
vored consommd  served  with  small  quenelles 
of  chicken  forcemeat  in  three  colors  shape  of  a 
pencil,  an  inch  long;  to  make  which,  divide  the 
forcemeat  into  three  parts,  leave  one  plain, 
color  the  others  red  and  green  respectively, 
added  a  macedoine  of  vegetables  and    some   CONSOMMfe  ORGE — A  plain  consomm^  served 


chopped  parsley  and  celery  leaves. 
CONSOMMfe  MASSENA— Made  with  plenty  of 
hare  or  jack  rabbit  trimmings  mixed  with  the 
consomm6  ingredients,  when  strained  off,  flav- 
ored with  sherry  wine;  served  with  small  que- 
nelles of  rabbit. 


with  pearl  barley,  breast  of  cooked  chicken  cut 
in  squares,  carrots  and  turnips  cut  into  small 
squares. 
CONSOMMfe  WITH  PEAS— A  vegetable  fla- 
vored consomm^  served  with  green  peas,  to- 
gether with  black  peas  scooped  out  of  truffles. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


65 


CONSOMMfi  POISSON  — A  plain  consomm^ 
slightly  flavored  with  fish  stock,  seasoned  with 
sherry  wine;  served  with  green  peas,  dry  boiled 
rice  and  small  quenelles  of  lobster. 

CONSOMMfe  PRINTANlfiRE  — A  vegetable 
flavored  consomm^  served  with  plenty  of  green 
peas,  asparagus  tips,  and  other  spring  vegeta- 
bles cut  small. 

CONSOMMfe  PRINTANlfiRE  ROYAL— Same 
as  the  preceding,  with  the  addition  of  Royal 
custards,  into  which  has  been  steamed  a  finely 
cut  macedoine  of  vegetables. 

CONSOMMfe  PAYSANNE— A  vegetable  flavored 
consomm6  served  with  a  jardiniere  of  vege- 
tables, shred  cabbage  and  lettuce. 

CONSOMMfi  PRINCESSE— A  rich  chicken  fla- 
vored consomm^  served  with  green  peas,  aspar" 
agus  tips,  pearl  barley,  diced  chicken  breasti 
and  forcemeat  quenelles. 

CONSOMMfi  PATTI— A  plain  consomm^  served 
with  rice,  green  peas,  breast  of  chicken  and 
truffles  cut  in  small  squares,  together  with 
some  Parmesan  cheese  served  separately. 

CONSOMMfe  PATE  D'lTALIE— A  chicken  fla 
vored  consomm^  served  with  fancy  Italian 
paste. 

CONSOMMfi  PRINCE  DE  GALLES--A  game 
flavored  consomme,  served  with  asparagus  tips. 
Royal  custards,  breast  of  chicken  and  chicken 
forcemeat,  all  cut  in  diamond  shapes. 

CONSOMMfe  PALESTINE— A  chicken  flavored 
consomm^  served  with  dry  boiled  rice,  and  thin 
slices  of  stewed  Jerusalem  artichokes. 

CONSOMMfi  WITH  QUENELLES,  ASPAR. 
AGUS  TIPS,  TURNIPS,  RICE.  CORN, 
PEAS,  OR  ANY  OTHER  SIMPLE  THING, 
AS  OFTEN  SEEN  ON  BILLS  OF  FARE- 
IS  SIMPLY  A  PLAIN  CONSOMMfi  SERVED 
WITH  THE  ARTICLE  NAMED. 

CONSOMMfi  ROY  ALE— A  plain  consomm^ 
served  with  circular  slices  of  Royal  custards, 
and  flavored  with  sherry  wine. 

CONSOMMfi  RACHAEL— A  game  flavored  con- 
somm^  seasoned  with  Madeira  wine,  and  served 
with  small  quenelles  of  game  together  with 
shreds  of  cooked  red  tongue  and  truffles. 

CONSOMMfe  RENAISSANCE— A  game  flavored 
consomm6  seasoned  with  Malaga  wine;  served 
with  sliced  mushrooms,  dry  boiled  rice,  green 
peas  and  croutons. 

CONSOMMfi  RIVOLI— A  plain  consomm^  but 
highly  spiced;  served  with  noodles,  also  Parme- 
san cheese  served  separately. 

C0NS0MM£  SEMOULE— a  plain  consomm^, 
when  strained  off  has  tapioca  or  semolina  washed, 
then  simmered  till  same  is  clear  in  the  soup. 

CONSOMMfi  SAGOU— Same  as  the  preceding, 
but  using  sago  instead  of  tapioca. 

CONSOMMfi  DE  STAEL— A  chicken  flavored 
consomm^  served  with  lozenge  shaped  pieces  of 
fried  bread,  and  small  quenelles  of  chicken 
forcemeat. 


CONSOMMfe  SEVEIGNE— A  chicken  flavored 
consomm^  served  with  asparagus  tips,  cut  string- 
less  beans,  green  peas,  and  Royal  custards 
mixed  with  forcemeat. 

CONSOMMfe  SOLFERINO— A  strong  beef  fla- 
vored consomm^;  served  with  small  quenelles  of 
farina.  Plenty  of  roast  beef  bones  should  be 
boiled  in  the  stock. 

CONSOMMfi  SUEDOISE— A  rich  chicken  fla- 
vored consomm^  served  with  a  small  croustade 
in  each  plate  filled  with  a  mixture  as  follows: 
run  a  couple  of  carrots,  turnips  and  a  small  cab- 
bage through  a  mincing  machine,  braise  them 
till  done,  then  mix  with  them  a  can  each  of 
flageolet  beans  and  green  peas,  also  a  little 
Parmesan  cheese;  season  to  taste, 

CONSOMMfe  TROIS  RACINES— A  mutton  fla- 
vored consomm^  served  with  cubes  of  braised 
turnip,  carrot  and  celery, 

CONSOMMfe  TALMA— A  chicken  flavored  con- 
somm6  served  with  grains  of  boiled  rice,  and 
shapes  of  Royal  custards  made  of  eggs  and 
almond  milk. 

CONSO  MMfi  ST.  X  AVIER— A  vegetable  flavored 
consomm^  served  with  a  Printani^re  of  vege- 
tables, shred  cabbage  and  the  following:  Cook 
together  four  ounces  of  butter,  six  ounces  of 
flour,  two  ounces  of  grated  cheese,  one  cup  of 
cream;  season  it  with  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg; 
remove  from  the  fire  when  done,  and  beat  into 
it  two  whole  eggs,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  some 
chopped  parsley;  then  rub  it  through  a  colan- 
der into  the  simmering  soup. 

CONSOMMfi  VERMICELLI- Is  simply  a  rich 
veal  flavored  consomm^  served  with  vermicelli 
that  has  been  boiled,  and  then  well  washed  and 
drained. 

CONSOMMfe  VOLAILLE— Is  simply  a  rich 
chicken  flavored  consomm^  served  with  strips  of 
chicken  meat. 

COQ — The  French  word  for  "cock",  hence  they 
have  "coqde  Bruyere"  which  in  English  means 
black  cock  or  heath  fowl,  "coq  d'lnde"  or 
turkey  cock. 

COQUILLE— Is  the  French  word  for  shell,  and 
we  have  many  dishes  served  "en  coquille"  or 
in  shell,  generally  in  a  scallop  shell,  either  nat- 
ural, or  of  metal  or  earthernware  to  imitate  it. 

CORBEILLE— Is  the  French  word  for  basket 
that  is  used  to  hold  a  display  of  crystallized 
fruits  or  flowers,  etc  ,  etc. 

CORDIALS— Or  liqueurs  as  the  French  call  them, 
enter  into  many  ices  and  drinks  that  are  served 
at  banquets,  of  which  the  following  is  a  list  of 
those  most  used.  "Absinthe,  Alkermes,  Bene- 
dictine, Chartreuse,  Cura^oa,  Kummel,  Shrub, 
Kirsch  or  Kirschenwasser,  Maraschino,  Nectar, 
Negus,  Noyeau,  Punch,  Ratafia  and  Vermouth. 

CORIANDER — Name  of  an  aromatic  seed  resem- 
bling whole  peppers  in  size  and  shape,  used  by 
confectioners  as  a  flavoring,  also  by  the  cook 
for  seasoning  green  turtle  soup. 


66 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CORN — A  most  succulent  and  nutritious  vege- 
table.    In  its  green  state  it  is  generally  boiled 

I     for  about  twenty  minutes  in  boiling  water  con- 

i  taining  milk  and  salt,  and  is  served  on  the  cob. 
The  dried  corn  or  maize,  (MAIS  in  French,)  is 
ground  coarse  or  fine  for  making  the  following 
dishes. 

CORN  MEAL  MUSH— One  gallon  of  water,  one 
ounce  each  of  salt  and  butter,  The  seasoned 
water  is  brought  to  the  boil,  into  which  is  then 
strewn  and  beaten  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of 
corn  meal;  when  boiled  up  again,  it  should  be 
removed  to  the  back  of  the  range  where  it  must 
simmer  for  three  hours  with  a  cover  on;  served 
with  cream  or  milk  and  sugar. 

FRIED  CORN  MUSH  — A  popular  breakfast 
dish.  The  mush  of  the  preceding  when  cooked 
is  poured  into  a  buttered  pan,  smoothed,  the  top 
then  brushed  with  melted  butter  to  prevent  a 
hard  skin  forming,  allowed  to  become  cold,  cut  in 
blocks  or  slices,  fried  plain  in  butter,  or  breaded 
and  fried;  served  with  maple  syrup. 

CORN  BATTER  CAKES— For  recipe  see  head- 
ing of  "Batters." 

CORN  GEMS  OR  MUFFINS— One  and  a  half 
pounds  of  corn  meal,  three  quarters  of  a  pound 
of  sifted  wheat  flour,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  bak- 
ing powder,  half  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  one 
teaspoonful  salt,  all  mixed  together  dry;  one 
and  a  half  pints  each  of  water  and  milk,  six 
beaten  eggs,  half  a  cupful  of  melted  butter  mixed 
together,  the  dry  and  wet  mixtures  then  thor- 
oughly incorporated  and  poured  into  hot  greased 
patty  shells  or  muffin  rings  and  baked;  light  and 
delicious. 

CORN  BREAD,  JOHNNY  CAKE  OR  CORN 
DODGER — The  preceding  mixture  poured  into 
greased  hot  shallow  baking  pans  and  baked  well 
done  with  crisp  corners. 

CORN  MEAL  GRUEL— Well  boiled  corn  meal 
mush  two-thirds,  slightly  sweetened  boiling  milk 
one-third,  mixed,  then  forced  through  a  fine 
sieve  or  colander. 

CORN  WAFFLES— The  mixture  above  given 
for  "Corn  Muffins,"  poured  into  hot  waffle 
irons,  baked  and  served  dusted  with  powdered 
sugar. 

CORN  BLANC-MANGE— Equal  quantities  of 
white  corn  meal  and  corn  starch  mixed  dry, 
beaten  into  boiling  milk  sweetened  to  taste, 
then  allowed  to  simmer  for  an  hour,  removed, 
flavored,  poured  into  decorated  molds,  turned 
out  when  set  and  cold;  served  with  whipped 
cream,  fruit  syrups  or  stewed  fruits. 

CORN  MEAL  OR  INDIAN  PUDDING— Thick 
well  boiled  corn  meal  mush  allowed  to  partly 
cool,  into  which  is  then  mixed  seedless  raisins, 
grated  lemon  rind,ginger,butter,a  little  molasses 
beaten  with  a  very  little  baking  soda,  beaten 
eggs,  then  baked  and  served  with  a  fruit  syrup 
sauce. 

POLENTA— The  Italian  name  for  our  corn  meal 


mush;  they  also  make  a  polenta  from  chestnut 
flour. 

HULLED  CORN— Dried  white  corn  soaked  in 
weak  lye  for  two  days  is  then  well  washed, 
boiled  tender  and  served  plain  with  milk.  In 
the  larger  cities  there  are  people  who  prepare 
it  and  sell  it  ready  for  boiling. 

TORTILLAS,  A  CORN  CAKE  MADE  BY  THE 
MEXICANS— The  tortilla  is  typical  of  old  Mex- 
ico, and  is  encountered  wherever  the  influence 
of  the  cactus  republic  has  reached.  It  was 
found  as  the  main  article  of  food  among  the 
ancient  Aztecs  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  con- 
quests, more  than  three  and  a  half  centuries  ago; 
and  the  little  hand  ground  and  palm-fashioned 
corn  cake  has  well  held  its  own  down  through 
the  ages,  being  today  as  popular  and  in  as  gen- 
eral use  as  ever.  Shelled  corn  intended  for  this 
use  is  first  soaked  over  night  in  lime  water  until 
the  outer  husk  of  the  kernels  is  loose  enough  to 
be  removed  by  being  rolled  between  the  hands, 
and  is  then  ready  for  grinding.  This  is  done 
by  the  Mexican  women  of  the  lower  classes, 
who  often  work  in  the  doorways  of  their  homes, 
bending  over  the  historic  stone  hand  mill,  called 
in  Mexico  a  MAT  ATE.  The  mill  is  simply  a 
rough  slab  of  stone  supported  by  four  stocky 
legs  and  is  made  of  bolcanic  tufa,  the  coarse 
grain  of  which  is  best  adapted  for  the  grinding 
of  the  corn,  beans,  chilli  seeds,  cheese  or  what- 
ever it  may  be  desired  to  finely  pulverize.  The 
stone  mill  is  an  indispensable  item  in  the  culin- 
ary outfit  of  the  tropical  home.  The  accompany- 
ing handpiece,  looking  like  a  rude  rolling  pin,  is 
also  of  stone,  and  is  briskly  worked  up  and  down 
the  incline  of  the  rude  stone  table  by  the  woman 
as  she  bends  to  her  work  with  a  steady  swing  of 
body,  shoulders  and  arms.  It  is  claimed  that 
the  flour  for  the  tortillas  can  be  perfectly 
milled  only  by  their  ancient  methods,  and  when 
one  sees  the  result  of  the  grinding  he  is  ready 
to  admit  that  possibly  they  are  right.  As  the 
moist  windrows  of  the  meal  roll  off  the  grinding 
board  it  is  caught  in  a  basin  and  is  then  ready 
for  being  formed  into  cakes  for  baking.  When 
ready  to  bake  a  woman  takes  a  small  lump  of 
the  heavy  mixture  and  lays  it  in  the  palm  of  her 
hand;  then  with  the  other  palm,  she  rolls  it  into 
a  ball  and  begins  to  quickly  pat  it  in  to  the  de- 
sired thinness,  deftly  spreading  the  fingers  to 
allow  it  to  enlarge  its  size,  and  changing  it  from 
hand  to  hand  until  it  is  only  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
in  thickness  and  generally  about  six  inches  in 
diameter,  although  sometimes  as  large  as  a  din- 
ner plate.  The  plastic  cakes  are  tossed,  one 
after  another,  as  completed,  upon  the  stove 
called  a  Brasero,  and  as  fast  as  delicately 
browned  and  turned  they  are  placed  in  a  steam- 
ing heap  and  enveloped  in  a  cloth  to  keep  them 
warm. 

CORN  FRITTERS  —  Canned  corn,  or  cooked 
corn  cut  off  the  cob,  pounded,  mixed  with  a  little 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


«7 


flour,  beaten  eggs,  salt,  pepper  and  a  little  but- 
ter, dropped  by  spoonfuls  into  hot  fat  and  fried 
brown;  served  as  a  garniture  to  chicken,  Mary- 
land style,  or  as  a  vegetable. 

GRATED  CORN  PUDDING— Two  quarts  of 
cooked  corn  grated  off  the  cob,  eight  yolks  of 
eggs,  cup  of  melted  butter,  pint  of  milk,  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  mixed,  poured  into  but- 
tered baking  pans,  baked;  served  with  a  sweet 
sauce. 

GREEN  CORN  SAUTE— Boiled  corn  cut  from 
the  cob,  melted  butter  in  saut^  pan,  corn  tossed 
and  heated  thoroughly  in  it,  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg;  served  very  hot;  after 
saut^eing,  it  may  also  be  mixed  with  a  cream 
or  Bechamel  sauce,  and  served  as  a  vegetable. 

GREEN  CORN  BATTER  CAKES— Two  quarts 
of  cooked  corn  grated  from  the  cob,  twelve 
ounces  of  flour,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  pint  and 
a  half  of  milk,  four  beaten  eggs,  thoroughly 
mixed,  baked  on  a  griddle;  served  with  butter 
and  sugar,  or  syrup. 

CORN  SOUP — Fresh  green  corn  partly  grated 
off  the  cob  and  placed  aside;  the  rest  on  the  cob 
boiled  in  chicken  broth  till  tender,  then  strain 
it  off  on  to  the  grated  pulp,  boil  up,  season  with 
buttei,  salt,  nutmeg  and  a  little  sugar,  then  pass 
it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  an  equal  quantity  of 
V61out^  sauce.  Another  way  is  to  take  canned 
corn,  pound  it,  rub  it  through  a  sieve,  boil  it 
with  milk,  then  mix  it  with  Velout^  sauce. 

CORN  AND  TOMATO  SOUP— Canned,  or  com 
cut  from  the  cob,  passed  through  a  mincing 
machine,  then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  the 
pur^e  thus  obtained  boiled  in  a  V^lout^  sauce, 
then  combined  with  an  equal  quantity  of  tomato 
pur^e. 

'ROAST  CORN  IN  EAR— Young  green  com  with 
the  thick  outer  husks  removed,  the  inner  leaves 
after  removing  the  silk,  tied  at  the  top,  slowly 
roasted  till  done;  served  with  the  green  cover- 
ing; cut  top  and  bottom  so  as  be  removed  easily. 

POP  CORN — A  variety  of  corn  that  is  held  in  a 
wire  basket  over  heat  enough  to  burst  or  pop  it; 
it  can  then  be  cemented  together  into  balls  with 
butter  and  syrup,  etc. 

ROAST  GREEN  CORN— Young  green  com 
stripped  and  the  silk  removed,  arranged  in  a 
buttered  baking  pan,  seasoned  with  salt,  white 
pepper  and  melted  butter,  slowly  baked,  basted 
and  turned  till  done. 

CORN  STARCH— A  preparation  of  the  inner 
part  of  corn  used  in  making  blanc-manges, 
thickening  soups,  sauces,  etc. 

STEWED  CORN,  CREOLE  STYLE— Canned 
corn,  or  corn  cooked  and  cut  from  the  cob, 
mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  peeled  and 
cooked  tomatoes,  a  grating  of  onion  and  garlic, 
salt,  pepper  and  butter,  boiled  down  thick; 
served  as  a  vegetable. 

TORN  SALAD  — Called  "Doucette"  by  the 
French,  is  a  herb  used  in  mixing  salads:  some- 


times made  into  a  salad  by  itself;  is  good  to 
mix  with  lettuce  salad,  giving  it  a  slightly  bitter 
taste;  it  resembles  somewhat  a  cabbage  lettnce 
in  appearance  and  growth. 

COTELETTES— The  French  word  for  our  cut- 
lets, but  is  generally  applied  to  rib  chops  of 
mutton,  lamb  and  veal. 

COURTBOUILLON— Is  the  name  of  a  highly 
seasoned  broth  used  to  boil  fresh  water  fish,  to 
impart  a  better  flavor  to  them,  and  is  made 
from  carrot,  onion,  parsley,  bay  leaves,  cloves, 
thyme,  garlic,  sliced  lemon,  chervil,  salt  and 
pepper,  all  tied  in  a  muslin  bag  and  boiled  with 
a  few  fish  heads  in  water  containing  white  or 
red  wine  or  vinegar;  after  the  seasoning  is 
extracted,  it  is  strained  and  put  away  for  use  as 
required;  it  also  enters  into  a  few  soups,  sauces 
and  garnitures,  such  as  Havraise,  Holstein, 
Normande  and  Venitienne  sauces,  Chambord 
and  Genevoise  garnitures.  Bouillabaisse,  Eel, 
Lobster  and  other  fish  soups  and  bisques. 

CRABS— Are  a  delectable  shellfish.  In  this  country 
we  use  for  food  two  kinds,  the  hard  shell  blue 
crab  which  periodically  sheds  its  shell,  thus  giv- 
ing us  the  "soft  shell  crab"  and  the  oyster  crab. 
The  male  crab  has  a  long  white,  narrow  tail 
turned  round  its  under  part,  the  female  has  a 
broad  brownish,  feathery  tail.  The  centre  of 
the  body  is  filled  with  its  liver,  which  is  a  soft 
yellow  substance.  The  meat  used  is  obtained 
from  the  inner  top  of  the  back,  and  the  claws. 
Crab  meat  is  tasty  but  comparatively  poor  in 
nutriment  and  very  hard  to  digest.  There  is  one 
firm  in  this  country  "  McMenamin  of  Hamp- 
ton, Virginia,"  who  for  years  past  have  made 
a  specialcy  of  putting  up  fresh  cooked  crab  meat 
in  cans,  supplying  with  each  can  a  sufficient 
number  of  shells  to  hold  the  amount  of  meat. 
They  are  obtainable  of  leading  grocers  every- 
where, and  from  personal  experience  of  their 
use,  the  author  can  say  that  he  has  found  their 
crab  meat  give  perfect  satisfaction  to  hotel 
patrons. 

CRAB  CAKES— Cooked  crab  meat  four  parts, 
fresh  bread  crumbs  one  part,  mixed  and  sea- 
soned with  salt,  nutmeg,  red  pepper,  and 
chopped  parsley,  and  bound  with  raw  egg  yolks; 
made  into  cakes  like  "codfish  cakes"  then 
breaded  and  fried;  served  with  cream  or  Hol- 
landaise  sauces. 

CRAB  TOAST— Cooked  crab  meat  saut^ed  with 
butter,  seasoned  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  red 
pepper;  served  piled  high  on  slices  of  hot  but- 
tered toast. 

BUTTERED  CRAB  —  Cooked  crab  meat  cut 
small,  two  parts;  fresh  bread  crumbs,  one  part; 
mixed  and  seasoned  with  a  little  chopped 
parsley,  salt,  red  pepper,  nutmeg,  caper  vinegar 
and  melted  butter,  then  packed  into  crab  shells, 
sprinkled  with  bread  cmmbs,  then  melted  but- 
ter, browned  in  hot  oven  and  served. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CRAB  SAUSAGES— Cooked  crab  meat  seasoned 
with  chervil,  a  suspicion  of  garlic,  salt,  red 
pepper  and  minced  chives,  the  whole  pounded, 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  bound  with  raw  yolks 
of  eggs,  formed  into  shapes  of  sausages,  rolled 
in  flour,  fried  a  delicate  brown  with  butter; 
served  with  tartar  sauce. 

CRAB  FRITTERS  — Cooked  crab  meat  finely 
minced,  mixed  with  a  little  minced  fried  onion, 
a  suspicion  of  garlic,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper, 
nutmeg,  dry  mustard,  Worcestershire  sauce  and 
chopped  parsley,  all  boiled  down  in  a  V^lout^ 
sauce  till  thick;  then  is  worked  in  a  few  beaten 
egg  yolks,  removed  and  poured  into  a  buttered 
pan  and  allowed  to  become  cold;  then  cut  in 
finger  slices,  dipped  into  a  thin  frying  batter, 
fried;   served  with  tartar  sauce. 

CRAB  CANAPES— Minced  cooked  crab  meat 
mixed  with  a  little  finely  minced  fried  shallots, 
seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper  and  grated  Par- 
mesan cheese,  boiled  down  thick  with  a  rich 
V^lout^  sauce,  allowed  to  cool,  then  spread  on 
fancy  shapes  of  toast,  the  meat  then  strewn  with 
grated  cheese,  browned  off  in  hot  oven  and 
served. 

CRAB  OMELET— The  preceding  mixture  while 
still  hot  enclosed  in  centre  of  omelet;  served 
with  Velout^  sauce  poured  around. 

CRAB  SALAD — Cooked  crab  meat  cut  fine,  sea- 
soned with  oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  salt  and  red 
pepper  mixed  with  a  little  finely  shred  and 
minced  white  cabbage;  served  on  a  leaf  of 
lettuce,  garnished  with  shred  lettuce,  stuffed 
olives,  and  slices  of  hard  boiled  eggs. 

CRAB  STEW — Cooked  crab  meat  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  made  hot  in  a  rich 
Bechamel  sauce;  served  in  cases  or  croustades, 
the  top  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust. 

CRAB,  QUEEN  STYLE— Cold  cooked  crab 
meat  in  shreds  three  parts,  finely  shred  hearts 
of  celery  one  part,  mixed,  seasoned  with  tarra- 
gon vinegar,  olive  oil,  salt  and  red  pepper,  filled 
into  crab  shells,  masked  with  mayonnaise,  dec- 
orated with  small  shapes  of  hard  boiled  eggs, 
lobster  coral  and  sliced  stuffed  olives,  (called 
CRAB  A  LA  REINE). 

EMINCE  OF  CRAB  — Shredded  cooked  crab 
meat  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper,  dash  of 
Worcestershire  sauce  and  caper  vinegar,  mixed 
with  a  little  Parmesan  cheese,  tossed  and 
thoroughly  heated  in  a  sautoir  with  butter; 
served  on  hot  buttered  toast,  sprinkled  with 
chopped  parsley. 

DEVILED  CRABS— Cooked  crab  meat  mixed 
with  minced  whites  of  hard  boiled  eggs  and  the 
yolks  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  seasoned  with 
salt,  red  pepper,  dry  mustard,  Worcestershire 
sauce  and  tarragon  vinegar;  made  hot  with  a 
good  allowance  of  melted  butter,  filled  into 
shells,   smoothed,    strewn    with    sifted    bread 

'  crumbs,  browned  off  in  the  oven  and  served  very 


hot.  Some  cooks  have  a  habit  of  mixing  the 
crab  meat  with  a  highly  seasoned  sauce  instead 
of  the  directions  just  given,  with  the  result  that 
if  not  all  served  at  the  one  meal,  they  go  flat 
when  cold,  and  look  unsightly  and  unservice- 
able when  reheated. 

SCALLOPED  CRABS— The  deviled  crab  mix- 
ture of  the  preceding  moistened  with  V^lout^ 
sauce,  filled  into  crab  or  scallop  shells,  or  small 
oval  deep  dishes,  strewn  with  grated  cheese 
and  melted  butter,  browned  in  hot  oven  and 
served. 

BAKED  CRABS— Minced  shallots,  thinly  sliced 
mushrooms  lightly  fried  together  with  butter, 
into  which  is  then  mixed  cooked  crab  meat, 
truflBe  trimmings,  chopped  parsley,  salt,  red 
pepper  and  a  little  V^lout^  sauce;  filled  into 
large  crab  shells,  strewn  with  fresh  sifted  bread 
crumbs,  browned  in  oven,  served  hot. 

CRABS,  CREOLE  STYLE— Live  hard  shell 
crabs,  fish-kettle  with  separate  perforated 
bottom,  under  which  is  poured  white  wine  vine- 
gar seasoned  with  salt  and  red  pepper;  live 
crabs  placed  on  the  false  bottom,  lid  of  kettle 
placed  on  tightly,  kettle  put  over  a  good  fire; 
when  crabs  are  of  a  bright  red  color,  taken  up 
and  served  at  once  with  the  under  shell  separated. 

CROUSTADE  OF  CRABS— Cooked  crab  meat 
sauteed  with  minced  shallots  in  butter,  seasoned 
with  salt,  red  pepper  and  caper  vinegar,  moist- 
ened and  heated  with  sauce  Normande,  filled 
into  bread  or  paste  croustades;  served  very  hot. 

CRAB  FORCEMEAT— Cooked  crab  meat  finely 
minced  with  chervil,  chives  and  a  small  clove 
of  garlic,  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper  and 
caper  vinegar,  pounded,  then  rubbed  through  a 
fine  sieve,  bound  with  raw  egg  yolks.  Set  aside 
for  use. 

CRAB  CROQUETTES— Crab  forcemeat  made 
into  shapes,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  sauce 
Joinville. 

CRAB  KROMESKIES— Cold  crab  forcemeat 
rolled  into  size  and  shape  of  a  finger,  bound 
with  a  thin  slice  of  cold  boiled  bacon,  pinned 
with  a  toothpick,  dipped  into  a  plain  batter, 
fried,  toothpick  removed,  served  with  tartar 
sauce. 

STUFFED  CRAB — Cooked  crab  meat  seasoned 
with  tarragon  vinegar,  curry  powder,  salt  and 
red  pepper,  slightly  moistened  with  V^lout^ 
sauce,  filled  into  shells,  strewn  with  sifted 
bread  crumbs,  baked;  served  very  hot. 

TOMATOES  STUFFED  WITH  CRAB— Raw 
peeled  tomatoes  of  an  even  size,  hollowed  out, 
seeds  removed,  the  outside  then  covered  with 
crab  forcemeat,  and  the  inside  filled  with  dev- 
illed crab  mixture,  smoothed  off,  rolled  in  sifted 
bread  crumbs,  baked  and  basted  with  butter; 
served  very  hot. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


CRAB  SAUCE— Cooked  crab  meat  minced  with 
a  few  mushrooms,  seasoned  with  nutmeg,  salt, 
red  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  simmered  in 
Bechamel  sauce  for  a  few  minutes;  chopped 
parsley  may  be  added  if  desired. 

CRAB  GUMBO  (soup)— Very  small  squares  of 
raw  lean  ham  fried  a  delicate  brown  with 
minced  onion  or  shallots  and  crab  meat,  flour 
added  to  form  a  roux,  moistened  with  equal 
parts  of  courtbouillon  and  chicken  broth, 
brought  to  the  boil,  skimmed;  shred  green  pep-, 
pers,  sliced  okras  and  peeled  and  sliced  toma- 
toes then  added,  simmered  for  an  hour,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  red  pepper,  herbs  and  white 
wine,  a  spoonful  of  dry  boiled  rice  placed  in 
each  plate  at  time  of  serving. 

BISQUE  OF  CRABS— Live  crabs  blanched  as 
for  "Creole  style,"  meat  removed  and  lightly 
fried  with  minced  shallots  and  a  clove  of  garlic 
in  butter,  moistened  with  fish  broth  and  white 
wine,  brought  to  the  boil,  shells  then  added 
with  some  well  washed  rice;  when  rice  is 
cooked,  little  roux  added,  the  whole  then  rubbed 
throuph  a  tamis  or  puree  seive,  brought  to  the  boil 
again,  skimmed,  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper 
and  sherry  wine;  served  with  small  croutons. 

BISQUE  OF  CRABS,  CREOLE  STYLE— Boil 
half  a  pound  of  rice  to  each  gallon  of  soup  re- 
quired, when  done  add  its  equal  weight  of 
cooked  crab  meat,  pound  to  a  paste,  adding 
half  a  cupful  of  melted  butter  and  a  flavor  of 
nutmeg,  then  rub  it  through  a  puree  sieve;  make 
the  soup  stock  of  thin  Velout^  sauce,  add  the  rice 
and  crab  puree,  bring  to  a  simmer,  then  add 
sliced  okras,  minced  red  and  green  peppers, 
sliced  peeled  tomatoes,  season  with  thyme, 
marjoram,  red  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  simmer 
slowly  for  one  hour  and  serve. 

BOILED  SOFT  SHELL  CRABS— Live  crabs 
with  small  claws  and  sand  pouch  removed, 
dropped  into  boiling  salted  water  and  simmered 
for  ten  minutes;  served  with  V^lout^  or  parsley 
sauces. 

SOFT  SHELL  CRABS  FRIED— Live  crabs 
with  sand  pouch  removed,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dipped  in  milk,  rolled  in  flour, 
then  in  beaten  eggs  and  again  bread  crumbs, 
fried  in  deep  fat  or  slowly  in  butter;  served 
with  tartar  sauce,  or  with  mayonnaise,  garn- 
ished with  parsley  and  lemon. 

SOFT  SHELL  CRABS  BROILED— Prepared 
and  breaded  as  in  the  preceding,  placed  between 
a  double  hinged  wire  broiler,  broiled  and  basted 
with  butter;  served  with  tartar  sauce,  garn- 
ished with  parsley  and  lemon. 

CURRIED  SOFT  SHELL  CRABS— Take  the 
very  small  ones  and  boil  them  a  few  minutes, 
then  saut^  them  with  minced  onion  in  butter, 
take  up,  and  put  into  curry  sauce,  simmer  a 
few  minutes;  served  with  a  border  of  boiled 
rice  in  grains. 


SOFT  SHELL  CRABS  STEAMED— Live  crabs 
with  the  small  claws  and  sand  pouch  removed, 
placed  on  false  bottom  of  fish  kettle  containing 
vinegar  and  water  underneath;  steamed  ten 
minutes,  served  with  Bechamel  sauce. 

OYSTER  CRABS,  SAUCE  POULETTE— Well 
washed  oyster  crabs  saut^ed  with  butter,  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper,  moistened  with 
Hollandaise  sauce  sharp  with  lemon  juice,  add 
a  little  chopped  parsley;  take  a  small  oval  plat- 
ter, pipe  a  border  of  potato  croquette  mixture 
around  the  edge,  brush  it  with  butter  and  brown 
it  off  in  the  oven  or  under  a  salamander;  serve 
the  oyster  crabs  in  the  center. 

OYSTER  CRABS  FRIED— Oyster  crabs  well 
washed  and  drained,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  tossed  in  flour,  thrown  into  cold  milk, 
then  into  sifted  bread  crumbs,  fried  in  hot  deep 
grease  like  whitebait,  taken  up,  drained, 
sprinkled  with  salt;  served  in  cases  or  crous- 
tades. 

OYSTER  CRAB  PATTIES— Make  the  "oyster 
crabs,  sauce  Poulette"  above,  flU  small  puff 
paste  patty  shells  with  the  mixture;  serve  with 
some  Poulette  sauce  around  the  base. 

OYSTER  CRABS,  NEWBURG— Well  washed 
and  drained  oyster  crabs  saut^ed  in  butter  for 
five  minutes  with  some  truflBe  trimmings,  then 
is  added  some  Madeira  wine,  reduce  to  one 
half,  then  work  in  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and 
cream,  shuffle  about  till  thick  and  creamy;  serve 
either  in  a  tureen  or  chafing  dish. 

CRAB  APPLES— A  small  sour  apple  used  as  a 
preserve,  crystalized,  or  in  jams  or  jellies,  also 
a  medicinal  cider. 

CRANBERRIES— A  small  red  fruit  that  when 
made  into  a  sauce  or  jelly  is  relished  by  the 
majority  as  an  accompaniment  to  roast  turkey, 
etc. 

CRANBERRY  PIE — Cranberries  washed,  then 
put  to  boil  with  sugar  and  a  very  little  water; 
when  done,  allowed  to  become  cold;  pie  plates 
lined  with  short  paste,  spread  with  the  cran- 
berries, strips  of  paste  placed  over  the  top,  the 
paste  brushed  with  egg  wash,  then  baked. 

CRANBERRY  JAM— or  sauce — is  the  preceding 
mixture  boiled  down  with  more  sugar  until 
thick  enough  to  coat  a  spoon. 

CRANBERRY  JELLY- -Well  washed  cranber- 
ries: to  each  gallon,  half  a  gallon  of  water,  put 
to  boil  and  boiled  for  ten  minutes,  they  are  then 
mashed  and  squeezed  through  a  flannel  jelly 
bag,  the  juice  then  returned  to  the  fire  with  four 
pounds  of  sugar  to  each  original  gallon  of  cran- 
berries, this  is  then  rapidly  boiled  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  minutes,  then  poured  into  molds  and 
set;  served  with  turkey,  or  as  a  preserve. 

CRANBERRY  ROLL  —  Light  biscuit  dough 
sweetened  and  flavored,  rolled  out  thin,  spread 
with  cranberry  jam,  rolled  up,  ends  tucked  in, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


placed  in  buttered  French  bread  pans  and 
baked;  or  steamed;  or  tied  in  a  floured  cloth, 
plunged  into  boiling  water  and  boiled;  served 
in  slices  with  sweet  sauce. 

CRANBERRY  TARTLETTES— Fancy  sets  of 
gem  pans  lined  with  puff  paste  trimmings, 
spread  with  cranberry  jam,  baked;  served  for 
dessert. 

THERE  ARE  TIMES  WHEN  THE  STEWARD 
CAN  BUY  GOOD  SOUND  CRANBERRIES 
VERY  CHEAP;  HE  SHOULD  THEN  DO 
SO,  FOR  THEY  CAN  BE  KEPT  SOUND 
FOR  MONTHS  IF  FILLED  INTO  JARS 
AND  KEPT  IN  A  COOL  PLACE,  COVERED 
WITH  WATER  THAT  IS  OCCASIONALLY 
REPLENISHED. 

CRAPAUDINE  —  A  French  term  applied  to 
small  birds  that  are  split  down  the  back,  then 
trussed  out  resembling  a  frog,  such  as  spring 
chickens,  squabs,  quails,  partridges,  etc,  hence 
a  squab  "  k  la  crapaudine"  would  be  a  squab 
split,  spread  out  and  trussed  like  a  frog,  broiled 
and  served  with  crapaudine  sauce. 

CRAYFISH — Also  called  "crawfish  "  is  a  diminu- 
tive looking  lobster,  found  plentifully  in  our 
rivers.  In  Europe  they  catch  a  sea  crayfish  and 
often  sell  it  as  a  lobster;  cur  river  crayfish  on 
account  of  its  form  and  color  brings  it  into  use 
as  an  artistic  garniture,  while  the  flesh  from  the 
tail  forms  many  delicate  entries,  salads  and 
sauces,  also  soups,  that  are  much  thought  of 
on  the  European  continent. 

CREAM — Spelled  by  the  French  "cr6me"  it  is 
the  oleaginous  part  of  milk,  and  forms  the  most 
delicate  soups,  sauces,  custards,  creams,  ices 
russes,  souffles,  cheeses  and  pastries.  .  ,  In 
general  hotel  routine,  the  cook  uses  the  word' 
cream,  when  little  or  no  cream  at  all  is  used 
and  with  the  following  recipes  such  "creams' 
will  predominate. 

CREAM  SAUCE— Boiling  milk,  meltea  Dutterin 
a  saucepan  with  as  much  flour  as  it  will  take 
up,  stirred  together,  gradually  moistened  while 
stirring  with  the  boiling  milk,  seasoned  with 
salt,  red  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  lastly,  when  re- 
moving from  the  fire,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  is 
added,  strained  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  some 
pure  cream  then  mixed  in. 

BfeCHAMEL  SAUCE— Boiling  chicken  broth 
flavored  with  the  liquor  from  canned  mush- 
rooms, flour  and  butter  mixed,  moistened 
gradually  with  the  boiling  liquor  while  stirring, 
seasoned  with  red  pepper,  salt,  lemon  juice  and 


the  fire,  flavored,  turned  into  a  wet  pan,  allowed 
to  become  cold  and  firm,  then  cut  into  shapes, 
double  breaded,  fried,  served  with  the  follow- 
ing cream  sauce. 

CREAM  SAUCE— Two  thirds  milk  and  one  third 
cream  mixed  and  sweetened,  brought  to  the 
boil,  then  thickened  to  the  consistency  of 
double  cream  with  a  little  corn  starch  moistened 
with  cream  and  egg  yolks,  strained,  finished 
with  a  glass  of  Madeira  wine. 

CREAM  PUFFS— Choux  paste  (see  recipe)  piped 
into  dome  shapes  on  a  baking  sheet,  baked, 
hole  then  made  in  side  and  filled  with  a  cream, 
made  as  given  for  "cream  fritters"  above,  but 
•softer. 

WHIPPED  CREAM— Good,  heavy  cold  cream 
whipped  till  it  stands  like  beaten  whites  of  eggs; 
used  for  beverages,  desserts,  as  an  accompani- 
ment to  shortcake,  etc. 

BAVARIAN  CREAM  —  The  whipped  cream 
above,  when  firm  is  sweetened  and  flavored, 
then  melted  gelatine  at  the  rate  of  two  ounces 
to  the  gallon  is  worked  in  quickly,  rapidly 
poured  into  molds,  shook  level,  set  in  ice  box 
till  firm,  turned  out  on  a  dish;  served  eithei 
plain,  or  with  cake,  fruit,  compotes,  etc. 

BAVARIAN  CREAM— May  also  be  made  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  the  "cream  fritter"  mix- 
ture above  and  the  preceding  recipe.  The  ends 
and  sides  of  the  molds  may  be  previously  decor- 
ated with  fruits,  and  the  ornamental  top  of  th« 
mold  with  plam  sweetened  cream  flavored  and 
colored,  set  with  gelatine;  also  the  cream  be- 
fore being  poured  into  the  molds  may  have 
candied  peels,  seedless  raisins,  pistachio  nuts, 
almonds,  marmalades,  stewed  and  fresh  fruits, 
pieces  of  wine  jelly,  etc.  stirred  in.  The  flavor- 
ings used  are  different  syrups,  liqueurs,  es- 
sences, etc;  also  coffee,  tea  and  chocolate. 

ICE  CREAM — There  are  two  ways  of  making  it, 
the  best  being  made  of  pure  cream  sweetened 
and  flavored,  then  strained  into  a  freezer  and 
frozen.  The  other  way  is  to  boil  milk  and 
sugar,  thicken  it  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and 
cream,  or  cornstarch,  then  with  eggs,  or  milk 
and  eggs,  thus  forming  a  frozen  custard  (but 
which  is  called  ice  cream);  again,  others  thick- 
en or  stiffen  boiling  milk  with  gelatine,  Irish 
moss,  etc.,  then  flavor  and  freeze.  .  .  All  the 
different  kinds  of  ice  cream  seen  on  "bills  of 
fare"  have  either  of  the  foregoing  as  a  basis, 
the  flavors,  colors,  shapes,  etc.  given  after- 
wards. 


nutmeg,  strained  through  a  fine  strainer,  one   CREAM  OF  TARTAR— A  most  valuable  ingred-         \ 


fourth  of  its  bulk  of  pure  cream  then  added. 
CREAM  FRITTERS— Boiling  milk  with  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  sweetened  to  taste,  thickened 
with  corn  starch  mixed  with  cream,  allowed  to 
boil  up  again,  then  further  thickened  with  a 
liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream,  removed  from 


ient  of  baking  powders.  It  is  also,  for  feverish 
people,  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  blood  coolers 
when  made  into  a  drink  as  follows:  Grate  the 
rinds  of  three  lemons  and  add  the  juice  of  them 
to  a  cupful  of  granulated  sugar  and  three  des- 
sert spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar;  on  this  potr 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


three  quarts  of  boiling  water,   allow  to  cool, 
strain,  and  it  is  ready  for  drinking. 

CRECY— The  name  of  a  French  city,  celebrated 
for  its  carrots  grown  in  the  neighborhood.  A 
soup  is  named  after  it,  hence  we  have  "Pur^e 
Cihcy"  which  is  pure^  of  carrots. 

CREPES-  The  French  word  for  a  kind  of  pan- 
cake, much  used  on  festival  occasions  by  the 
Latin  race. 

CREPINETTES— Small,  flat  sausages  of  various 
delicate  morsels,  wrapped  in  pigs  caul;  it  is  a 
French  term,  caul  being  called  "Crfepine"  in 
French. 

CRESS — Called  by  the  French  "cresson"  hence, 
dishes  seen  on  "bills  of  fare"  with  the  attach- 
ment "au  cresson"  are  garnished  with  cress, 
watercress  being  generally  used.  Besides  being 
a  handsome  garniture,  it  makes  a  fine  salad, 
eaten  plain  or  with  a  sprinkling  of  salt,  or  with 
a  little  salt,  pepper  and  tarragon  vinegar. 
Watercress  canapes  are  made  of  finely  minced 
watercress  worked  into  fresh  butter,  and  then 
spread  on  thin  slices  of  graham  bread. 

CROMESKIES— Also  spelled  "kromeskies"  are 
a  sort  of  fritter  made  of  fish,  flesh,  game  and 
fowl.  The  meats  are  made  into  a  form  of  sal- 
pipon  or  croquette  mixture,  when  cold  formed 
into  cork  shapes,  then  either  rolled  in  a  thin 
short  paste,  or  fritter  batter,  fried  crisp,  garn- 
ished, sauced  and  served.  An  oyster  cromesky 
is  an  oyster  dried  with  a  cloth,  wrapped  with  a 
a  thin  slice  of  parboiled  bacon,  pinned  with  a 
toothp''ck,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried;  when 
cooked,  the  toothpick  removed  before  serving. 

CROQUETTES — A  mince  of  some  cooked  food, 
such  as  beef,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  pork,  sweet- 
breads, lobster,  ham,  all  kinds  of  game,  poultry 
etc.,  blended  with  a  high  seasoning,  and  a  sauce 
to  bind  it  with;  when  cold,  it  is  made  into 
forms,  such  as  cones,  rolls,  balls,  cutlets,  etc., 
rolled  in  flour,  then  breaded,  fried  in  hot  fat  a 
golden  color;  served  with  sauces  and  garnitures 
that  are  appropriate  to  the  food  used. 

CROUSTADES-Are  hollow  crusts  made  with 
bread,  pastry,  or  a  mixture  of  flour,  eggs  and 
watergrain;  they  are  used  as  receptacles  for 
savories  and  sweets,  such  as  oysters,  oyster 
crabs,  lobster,  frogs,  terrapin,  sweetbreads, 
lamb,  chicken  livers,  fresh  mushrooms,  all 
kinds  of  garnitures,  mac^doine  of  vegetables, 
green  peas;  also  sherbets,  frozen  punches, 
whipped  cream,  ice  cream  forms,  fruit  and 
wine  jellies,  etc. 

CROUTE-AU-POT— Is   literally  crust  in  pot  or 

.  soup.  It  is  a  broth  containing  slices  of  carrot 
turnip,  cabbage,  and  pieces  of  toast,  the  broth 
is  generally  made  from  roast  meat  bones  with  a 
piece  of  bacon  or  ham  knuckle  thrown  in. 

CROUTONS — As  the  word  is  used  in  a  culinary 
sense,   are  pieces  of  bread  cut  in  the  size  and 


shape  of  dice,  fried  in  hot  fat,  or  browned  in 
the  oven,  to  serve  with  soup;  or  slices  of  bread 
cut  into  block  forms  and  fried,  used  to  support 
small  birds,  etc. ;  or  slices  of  bread  cut  into 
fancy  shapes  and  fried,  then  used  to  garnish 
hashes,  minces,  etc.;  also  used  in  connection 
with  shapes  cut  or  stamped  out  of  aspic  jelly' 
used  to  garnish  salads  and  cold  decorated  foods. 

CUCUMBERS— Are  a  vegetable  fruit  that  is  fav- 
orably received  by  the  majority  of  guests,  eaten 
plain  with  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  and  a  lit- 
tle grated  onion  to  offset  the  bilious  effects. 

CREAMED  CUCUMBERS  —  Peeled,  cut  in 
slices  X  inch  thick,  steamed  for  a  few  minutes, 
then  put  into  a  Bechamel  sauce,  simmered  till 
done;  served  either  as  a  garnish  or  vegetable. 

GLAZED  CUCUMBERS  ON  TOAST— Peeled, 
cut  in  slices  X  i°ch  thick,  boiled  till  tender  in 
salted  water,  taken  up  and  drained,  then  dipped 
in  hot  glaze;  served  overlapping  each  other  on 
a  slice  of  buttered  toast. 

FRICASSEE  OF  CUCUMBERS— Peeled,  cut 
lengthwise  in  finger  lengths,  then  simmered  in 
clear  broth  with  a  little  sugar  till  tender,  taken 
up  and  drained,  then  placed  into  HoUandaise 
sauce  sharp  with  either  lemon  juice  or  white 
wine  vinegar,  to  which  has  been  added  a  sea- 
soning of  Worcestershire  sauce. 

BLANQUETTE  OF  CUCUMBERS  — Peeled, 
cut  in  slices  %  inch  thick;  steamed;  then  placed 
in  a  rich  V^lout^  sauce,  simmered;  served  in 
the  centre  of  a  border  of  green  peas. 

STUFFED  CUCUMBERS  WITH  FORCE- 
MEAT—Peeled,  cut  in  slices  an  inch  thick, 
cored,  steamed,  dipped  into  Velout^  sauce,  ar- 
ranged on  hot  toast,  the  tops  sprinkled  with 
parsley  dust,  the  holes  then  filled  from  a  forc- 
ing bag  and  tube  with  a  rich  forcemeat  of  what- 
ever is  on  hand. 

CURRIED  CUCUMBERS— Cucumbers  peeled 
and  cored,  cut  into  two-inch  lengths,  stuffed 
with  mutton  forcemeat,  rolled  in  flour,  quickly 
fried  in  butter,  then  arranged  in  a  sautoir,  cov- 
ered with  curry  sauce,  simmered  till  tender; 
served  with  grains  of  boiled  rice. 

FRIED  CUCUMBERS  WITH  MARROW— Cu- 
cumbers peeled  and  cored;  marrow  bones  sawn 
into  two-inch  lengths  and  the  marrow  removed; 
cucumbers  cut  into  two-inch  lengths;  both  are 
then  steamed  for  a  few  minutes,  marrow  then 
rolled  into  minced  chives,  chervil,  tarragon  and 
shallots,  and  inserted  into  the  cucumber,  which 
is  then  breaded  and  fried;  served  with  cucum- 
ber sauce. 

PUR£E  of  cucumbers— Cucumbers  peeled, 
then  parboiled  in  boiling  salted  water,  taken  up 
and  drained,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rolled  in  flour,  simmered  in  clarified  butter, 
little  more  flour  added  to  form  a  roux,  moist- 
ened with  boiling  milk,   boiled  up,   the  whole 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


then  passed  through  a  pur^e  sieve;  if  to  be  nsed 
for  soup,  it  is  thinned  to  the  desired  consis- 
tency with  equal  parts  of  white  stock  and  milk, 
and  seasoned  with  nutmeg  and  sugar. 

CUCUMBER  SALAD— Sliced  cucumbers  steeped 
in  salted  water  and  ice  for  an  hour,  then 
drained,  dished  up  alternately  with  slices  of 
pickled  beet  and  quartered  hard  boiled  eggs, 
dressed  with  oil  and  vinegar,   salt  and  pepper. 

CUCUMBER  AND  ONION  SALAD— Sliced 
cucumbers  steeped  in  salted  ice  water  for  an 
hour,  a  few  spring  onions  also  sliced;  cucum- 
bers drained,  then  mixed  with  the  onions; 
served  with  salad  cream  dressing. 

CUCUMBERS,  FRENCH  STYLE— Slice  the 
cucumbers  very  thin,  steep  them  in  salted  water 
for  several  hours,  then  drain  and  mix  with 
French  dressing  containing  some  chopped  tar- 
ragon; serve  on  a  crisp  leaf  of  lettuce. 

CUCUMBER  KETCHUP— Large  cucumbers 
peeled  and  cored,  then  grated;  to  each  gallon  of 
pulp  after  being  drained,  is  mixed  half  a  gallon 
of  cider  vinegar,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  red  pep- 
per, eight  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  pint  of 
fresh  grated  horseradish;  when  thoroughly  in- 
corporated it  is  bottled  and  sealed. 

PICKLED  CUCUMBERS— Small  pickling  cu- 
cumbers select  and  firm,  well  washed  and  wiped- 
take  400  of  them  and  put  them  in  crocks;  make 
a  boiling  brine  strong  enough  to  float  a  potato 
the  size  of  an  egg,  pour  it  over  them  at  boiling 
point  and  let  them  stand  for  24  hours,  then  re- 
move, wipe,  and  put  into  clean  crocks  and  cover 
with  hot  vinegar  spiced  with  cloves,  mace,  onion, 
and  a  %  pound  of  mustard  seed. 

CUMIN — Name  of  a  seed  used  in  Europe  as  a 
flavoring  for  stews,  in  cheeses,  and  by  the  Ger- 
mans in  bread. 

CURACOA — Name  of  a  liqueur  made  from  bitter 
orange  peel;  in  cookery  is  used  as  a  flavoring  to 
sweet  sauces,  creams,  jellies,  and  blanc-manges. 

CURD— Is  the  basis  of  cheese;  the  solid  part 
of  milk;  used  by  confectioners  in  producing 
cheese  cakes,  blanc-manges,  curds  and  whey, 
curd  pudding,  curd  puffs,  etc. 

CURRANTS— Are  of  three  colors  and  flavors 
red,  white  and  black;  they  all  make  good  pies; 
the  white  and  red  are  also  cooked  in  syrup, 
bottled,  and  named  "Bar-le-duc"  jelly;  the  black 
make  fine  jams  and  jellies,  wine,  vinegar,  gin. 

DRIED  CURRANTS— Are  a  different  variety,  a 
sort  of  small  seedless  grape  that  grows  wild  in 
parts  of  Greece;  they  are  ripened  on  the  vine, 
then  picked  and  packed  into  barrels,  forming 
a  solid  mass,  and  exported  all  over  the  world; 
they  are  used  in  puddings,  mince-meat,  sauces, 
pickles,  dumplings,  cakes,  bans,  pancakes,  and 
also  made  into  a  cheap  wine. 


CURRY — Name  of  a  yellow  powder  composed  gen- 
erally of  turmeric,  coriander  seeds,  cardamons, 
cumin  seeds,  red  pepper,  ginger,  garlic,  chillies, 
cinnamon  and  black  pepper;  used  in  making 
mulligatawney  soups,  and  in  flavoring  food 
sauces  that  are  called  curries. 

CURING — By  a  safe  and  simple  method  applica- 
ble to  country  hotels  and  small  institutions,  of 
hams  and  bacon.  The  conditions  under  which 
the  curing  of  bacon  may  be  conducted  success- 
fully is  a  uniform  coolness  in  cellar,  a  uniform 
strength  of  pickle,  thorough  cleanliness,  the 
cellar  temperature  should  not  exceed  50  degrees 
F.  Bacon  is  cured  by  simply  rubbing  the  sides 
with  powdered  salt  to  which  has  been  added  a 
little  saltpetre,  then  placing  on  the  cellar  floor; 
they  are  then  covered  with  salt  to  which  has 
been  added  5  per  cent,  of  saltpetre,  and  al- 
lowed to  lie  for  a  week.  The  salt  is  then  re- 
moved, 'and  the  sides  turned,  rubbed  again  with 
salt,  saltpetre  and  a  little  sugar,  and  allowed  to 
lie  covered  with  a  fresh  quantity  of  salt  and 
saltpetre  for  another  week;  the  salt  is  then  all 
removed,  and  the  sides  are  either  hung  up  to 
dry,  or  allowed  to  lie  in  the  cellar  for  another 
week,  after  which  the  bacon  is  ready  in  the 
"green  state"  ;  or  it  may  then  be  smoked. 
The  best  smoking  materials  are  oak  dust,  oak 
chips,  peat,  wheat  straw,  ash  dust,  "or  chips  of 
other  hard  woods;  the  two  of  greatest  value 
are  the  oak  dust  and  peat,  each  imparting  a 
characteristic  flavor.  The  word  sides  is  used 
allowing  for  whole  halves  of  the  bacon  hog;  but 
if  bellies  alone  are  required,  the  process  is  the 
same. 

CUSTARD — Name  applied  to  a  mixture  of  eggs, 
milk  and  sugar,  mixed  together,  then  baked, 
steamed  or  boiled.  The  best  proportion  is:  to 
each  quart  of  milk,  work  id  eight  beaten  eggs, 
six  ounces  of  sugar,  then  flavor;  or  the  milk 
may  be  boiled  with  a  flavoring,  then  allowed  to 
cool;  the  custard  to  be  in  perfect  condition 
must  only  be  allowed  to  reach  the  boiling  or 
settling  point,  as  if  allowed  to  cook  longer  it 
will  disintegrate  and  become  watery. 

CUTLETS— Are  really  rib  chops  of  lamb,  pork, 
mutton  and  veal,  but  the  term  is  also  applied  to 
neatly  trimmed  slices  of  the  same  meats;  also 
to  a  slice  cut  an  inch  thick  right  across  the 
middle  of  a  leg  of  mutton;  the  term  is  also  ap- 
plied to  breasts  of  chicken,  game  and  poultry; 
imitation  cutlets  are  also  made  of  croquette 
mixtures  shaped  into  rib  chop  form. 

CZARINA — Name  of  a  Russian  sauce  often 
served  in  that  country  with  boiled  tongue.  It 
is  composed  of  a  good  Espagnole  sauce  contaic.- 
in,?  minced  gherkins,  seedless  raisins  and  lemon 
juice,  simmered  till  the  raisins  are  soft. 

DAMSON — The  name  of  a  peculiar  flavored  small 
blue  plum  that  if  eaten  raw  would  contract  tne 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


73 


jaws;  it  is  therefore  always  served  in  a  cooked 
condition,  in  which  form  it  is  rich  and  delicious; 
it  makes  a  fine  preserve,  jam,  jelly,  wine,  com- 
pote, pudding,  pie  and  tartlette. 

DANDELION— Or  as  the  French  call  it  "dent- 
de-lion"  dent  meaning  tooth,  inasmuch  as  its 
pecuilar  shaped  leaves  resemble  lions'  teeth.  It 
makes  a  very  pleasant  salad,  either  by  itself  or 
mixed  with  other  salad  leaves.  The  leaves 
should  be  gathered  before  the  sun  is  strong 
enough  to  toughen  them.  The  most  simple  way 
of  serving  and  that  mostly  liked,  is  dandelion 
leaves  with  French  dressing;  dandelion  leaves 
and  sorrel  in  equal  parts,  the  dandelion  cooked 
half  done  before  the  sorrel  leaves  are  added; 
is  used  as  a  vegetable  by  the  French. 

DARIOLES— The  name  of  a  small  plain  or  fluted 
mold,  these  are  lined  with  thin  paste,  then  filled 
with  a  cheese  cake  mixture,  sweet  custard  mix- 
ture or  whipped  cream,  turned  out  when  done, 
and  served  like  a  small  charlotte  russe. 

DARNE — Name  sometimes  seen  on  "bills  of  fare." 
It  is  the  French  word  for  slice,  and  is  generally 
used  in  the  term  "Darne  de  saumon"  which  is 
a  salmon  steak. 

lyARTOIS— Is  the  name  given  to  a  certain  kind 
of  cake  made  with  puff  paste  and  marmalade; 
also  in  meat  cookery  to  a  sheet  of  puff  paste 
spread  with  a  salpi^on  of  fish  forcemeat,  cray- 
fish tails,  eel  livers,  oysters  and  mushrooms, 
another  sheet  is  laid  on  top,  edges  pinched  to- 
gether, brushed  over  with  egg  wash,  baked; 
served  in  slices  twice  as  long  as  wide,  on  a  folded 
napkin. 

DATES— The  fruit  of  the  palm  tree;  the  fruit  in 
its  green  state  is  like  a  soft  green  pulp;  when 
the  tree  is  in  flower,  the  native  Arabs  bore  into 
the  stem  and  draw  the  sap,  which  they  call 
palm  milk,  and  ferment  it  into  wine,  much  the 
same  as  we  draw  the  syrup  from  the  maple  tree 
and  convert  it  into  sugar.  Dates  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  figs  in  cakes.  They  make  a  pretty 
show  on  the  fruit  stand  with  slices  of  angelica; 
also  opened  and  the  stone  removed,  and  in  its 
place  a  piece  of  walnut,  the  date  then  rolled  in 
powdered  sugar. 

DATE  PUDDING— One  pound  of  chopped  beef 
suet,  ^  pound  of  stoned  dates,  14  ounces  of 
grated  bread,  i^  ounces  of  baking  powder,  12 
ounces  of  flour,  one  grated  nutmeg,  two  eggs 
and  enough  milk  to  make  a  medium  mixture, 
poured  into  molds,  steamed  three  hours;  served 
with  wine  sauce. 

DAUBE — Name  given  to  a  strong  meat  seasoning 
of  salt,  powdered  herbs,  pepper  and  spices; 
used  to  roll  strips  of  larding  pork  in  prior  to  in- 
serting. The  meat  larded  and  daubed  is  named 
"beef  k  la  daube." 

DAUPHINE — A  French  term  applied  to  a  cake 
of  the  doughnat  variety  that  has  jelly  in  the 


centre;  sometimes  called  "Berlin  pancakes"  or 
"brioche  fritters";  "  klaDauphine"  is  used  by 
some  cooks  when  decorating  food  with  dauphine 
cakes. 

DEMI-GLAZE— Is  half  glaze,  or  glaze  mixed  to 
form  a  bright  jellied  gravy. 

DEVILS — Devilled  fish,  meat,  bones,  etc.,  such 
as  pork  spareribs,  ham,  lobster  meat,  sardines, 
kidneys,  boned  legs  of  cooked  poultry,  salmon 
steaks,  etc. ,  are  the  articles  highly  seasoned,  or 
spread  with  a  highly  seasoned  paste,  then  broiled 
and  served  with  or  without  a  pungent  sauce  ap- 
propriate to  the  food. 

DIABLOTINS— The  French  term  for  small  balls 
of  sweetmeats  generally  composed  of  almond 
paste,  rice  paste,  and  grated  orange  peel,  made 
into  balls,  fried  in  very  hot  lard,  drained,  then 
rolled  in  flavored  powdered  sugar;  also  balls  of 
the  mixture  given  for  cheesestraws  with  an  egg 
yolk  added,  then  floured  and  fried,  taken  up  and 
rolled  in  grated  cheese. 

DIAMOND  BACK— Name  of  the  terrapin  that 
inhabits  the  salt  marshes  of  the  Chesapeake, 
and  is  generally  sold  by  the  inch,  7  to  8  inches 
being  in  the  best  of  condition,  and  bringing  the 
highest  price,  from  $6  to  $10  each. 

DIGESTION— Is  something  that  every  cook 
should  study.  Foods  cooked  in  different  ways, 
digest  in  different  times,  the  following  table  is 
medically  correct. 

A  TABLE  SHOWING  THE  TIME   REQUIRED 

TO  DIGEST  THE   DIFFERENT   FOODS 

WHEN  COOKED  IN  DIFFERENT 

WAYS. 


Pork  steak broiled 

"         fat  and  lean roasted 

'•         recently  salted raw 

"  "      stewed 

"  "  "      broiled 

"      fried 

"      boiled 

Turkey,  wild roasted 

tame " 

boiled 

Goose roasted 

Chickens,  full  grown fricasseed 

Fowls,  domestic boiled 

roasted 

Ducks,    tame roasted 

wild roasted 

Soup,    barley boiled 

"       bean " 

"       chicken " 

mutton " 

oyster 

"      beef,  vegetables  and  bread..      " 

marrowbones 

Pig's  feet,  soused 

Tripe 

Brains,  animal " 

Spinal  marrow,  animal 

Liver,  (beef),  fresh broiled 


Si 

3-iS 
S-15 
3-00 
3-00 
3-15 
4-xS 
4-30 
2-18 
3-30 

2-25 

2-30 

2-45 
4-00 
4-00 
4-00 
4-30 
1-30 
3-00 
3-30 
3-30 
3-30 
4-00 
4-10 

I-OO 
I-OO 

I-4S 
3-40 


74  THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 

Heart,  (animal) fried           400  them  in  a  sautoir,  pour  over  some  rich  chicken 

Cartilage boiled         4-15  stock  and  a  little  melted  butter,  place  the  cover 

Tendon "              5-5°  on  and  reduce  to  a  glaze,  arrange  a  little  rissoto 

Hash,  meat  and  vegetables warmed      2-30  ^^  e^^h  end  of  the  serving  dish,  place  the  dolmas 

Sausage,  fresh broiled        3-20  .u      1 

P  .     .                                                                       2  ,Q  in  the  centre  and  pour  the  glaze  over. 

Cheese,  old,  strong raw             3-30  DOUGHBIRDS — Are   plentiful    on    the  coasts; 

Green  corn boiled         3-45  they  are  about  1%    pounds   in  weight,     when 

beans "            3-45  in  prime  condition,  have  a  bill  like  a  snipe,  are 

Beans,  pod ^^            2-30  delicious  eating  broiled,  roasted  or  in  a  salmis. 

Potat'oes.'.*.'.'!!.".'.'.".'.*!!.".'.'.'.".".'!.'*."!.roa'sted       2-30  DUCKS  AND  DUCKLINGS— That  is  the  domes- 

..       ......".....*       baked         a-30  tic  ones,  are  in  season  all  the  year  round, the 

•<        boiled         2-30  duckling  being  in  its  best  form  about  June. 

Cabbage raw             3-30  BOILED    DUCK,    PARSLEY   SAUCE— Ducks 

•*        with  vinegar "               a-oo  singed  and  drawn,  second  joint  of  wings  and 

boiled         4-30  feet  removed,  washed,  filled  with  a  stuffing  of 

Carrots ^^              313  ^^^    breadcrumbs    mixed   with    salt,    pepper, 

Turnips,  white ^                33°  chopped  parsley,  nutmeg  and  grated  lemon  rind, 

Breld  '  corn baked         3-15  trussed,  then  simmered  till  tender  in  seasoned 

Bread,' wheat!  fresh "              3-30  white  stock;  served  with  parsley  sauce. 

Apples,  sweet,  mellow raw             1-30  BONED   STUFFED    DUCK   WITH   ASPIC— 

"        sour.        "        "                a-00  Two  ducks  singed,  split  down  the  backs,  boned, 

"           "       hard "                2-50  laid  out  flat,  skin  side  down,  seasoned  with  salt, 

Milk boiled        2-00  pepper  and  nutmeg,  one  of  them  spread  with 

•••■■■■ ^^^  forcemeat,  the  meat  of  the  other  placed  on  top, 

^P'   "^^   whioped     i-^o  ^^'°   ^^^°   drawn   together,  sewn,  then  either 

,,          .,     ["roasted       a-15  roasted  or  braised  till  tender,  taken  up,  pressed 

<•          •>     !,W". soft  boiled  3-00  between   two   boards   till   cold,    trimmed    and 

••         ••     hard    "      3-30  glazed;  srved  in  slices  with  aspic. 

fried           3-3°  ROAST     DUCK,     ORANGE     SAUCE— Ducks 

Custard baked         2-45  singed  and  drawn;  filled  with  a  stuffing  made  of 

Codfish,  cured  (dry) boiled         2-00  ^^^   breadcrumbs,    blanched     minced    onions. 

Trout,  salmon  (fresh) ^^-^           1-30  ^^^^^^^  p^.^igy^  3alt^  pepp„,  nutmeg  and  a 

Bass,  striped        "        !!  .■.'."!.■  .'.■.■.'.'.'.■  broiled       3^0  sour  apple  grated;  truss,  steam   till  firm  and 

Flounder                "        fried           3-30  plump  (about  half  an  hour)  then  roast  and  baste 

Catfish                   "       "              3-30  till  brown  and  tender;     served  with  sauce  made 

Salmon,  salted boiled         4-00  of  finely  minced  onion  and  bacon  fried  slowly 

Oysters,  fresh raw             2-55  till  tender;  add  them  to  a  rich  poultry  gravy 

"            "      roasted       3-15  containing  port  wine  and  the  grated  rind  and 

velon,  st';ak:;:;:::::::::::::::::Sd   Vi  i-- -' -  --g- 

Pig  (suckling) roasted      2-30  ROAST     DUCK    WITH     PEAS.     HANOVER 

Lamb,  fresh broiled       2-30  SAUCE — Ducks    singed,   drawn   and   washed, 

Beef,  fresh,  lean,  (dry) roasted      3-30  filled  with  a  stuffing  made  of  dry  breadcrumbs. 

Beef  (with  mustard) boiled         3-10  minced  fried  onions  and  bacon,  also  the  heart 

Beef  (with  salt  only) "            3-36  and  liver  of  the  ducks,  chopped  parsley,  salt, 

Beef      "        "      "     tried           4-00  pepper  and  sage;    truss,   steam  half  an  hour, 

Beef,  fre^sh,  lean,  (rare) .roasted      3-00  ^^^^   ^^^^^   ^^^   ^^_^^^    ^.,j   ^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^. 

ee   le serve  with  green  peas  at  one  end   of  the  dish 

Mutton,  fresh 3-°°  j   tt                                 .^^        ^. 

boiled         3-00  *°<^  Hanover  sauce  at  the  other,  made  as  fol- 

••             .<  * •   roasted      3-15  lows:  poultry  livers  boiled,  then  rubbed  through 

Veal            "     : broiled       4-00  a  sieve,  added  to  a  V^loute  or  cream  sauce,  sea- 

"     fried           4-30  soned  with  lemon  juice  and  Cayenne  pepper. 

DINDON— Is  the  French  word  for  turkey;   "din-  BROILED    DUCKLING    WITH    DEVILLED 

donneaux"  is  the  French  word  for  the  spring  BUTTER— Duckling    singed,   second  joint  of 

turkey  used  for  broiling,  weighing  4  to  6  pounds.  wing  removed,   split   down    the   back,    drawn, 

DOLMAS — A  term  applied  to  leaves  of  cabbage  breastbone  removed,  laid  out  flat,  seasoned  with 

parboiled,  containing  balls  of  forcemeat,   and  salt  and  pepper,   slowly  grilled  till  done   and 

'  served  generally  with  rissoto.     Take  50  cabbage  brown;  served  on  a  slice  of  toast,  with  devilled 

leaves,  boil  them  for  ten  minutes,  drain,  make  butter  spread  over  the  bird,  garnish  with  cress 

50  balls  of  forcemeat  size  of  a  walnut,  place  in  and  lemon  *  *  *  *  Devilled  butter;  to  each  four 

centre  of  the  leaf,  wrap  the  leaf  around,  arrange  ounces  of  butter  work  in  a  level  teaspoonful  of 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


75 


Cayenne  pepper  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  black, 
X  of  a  teaspoonful  each  of  ground  ginger  and 
curry  powder,  and  a  little  finely  chopped  chervil 
or  parsley. 

SAUTE  OF  DUCK  WITH  OLIVES— Ducks 
singed,  drawn,  washed  and  steamed  for  half  an 
hour,  taken  up,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
brushed  with  melted  butter,  then  rolled  in  flour, 
quickly  browned  and  basted  in  hot  oven,  taken 
up,  cut  into  portions;  little  minced  onion  lightly 
fried  in  butter,  flour  added  to  form  a  roux, 
moistened  with  poultry  stock,  boiled  up  and 
skimmed,  ducks  then  added,  also  halves  of 
stoned  olives,  simmered  till  ducks  are  tender, 
sauce  seasoned  and  finished  with  little  orange 
juice  and  port  wine;  served  garnished  with 
croutons. 

STEWED  DUCKS  WITH  GREEN  PEAS— 
Ducks  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  lightly  but 
quickly  browned  in  oven,  taken  up  and  cut  in 
portions,  small  pieces  of  bacon  fried  with  some 
small  cut  spring  onions;  when  brown,  flour 
added  to  form  a  roux,  moistened  with  poultry 
stock,  boiled  up  and  skimmed,  ducks  then  added, 
with  a  few  sprigs  of  green  mint,  simmered  till 
tender,  mint  removed,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper;  served  with  a  crouton  at  ends  of  dish, 
green  peas  at  sides. 

BRAISED  DUCK  WITH  VEGETABLES— 
Ducks  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  brasiere  lined 
with  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  on  which  is  placed 
slices  of  onion  and  turnip,  carrot  and  pieces  of 


strainer  over  the  ducks  in  another  sautoir,  sim- 
mered till  tender:  served  garnished  with  slices 
of  fried  hominy. 

SAUTE  Ot  DUCK  WITH  CHESTNUTS— 
Ducks  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  steamed  for 
half  an  hour,  then  cut  into  joints,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  powdered  sage  and  thyme, 
rolled  in  flour,  fried  brown  with  bacon  fat,  taken 
up  and  drained,  then  put  into  a  brown  sauce  to- 
gether with  the  minced  giblets  and  some  roasted 
and  peeled  chestnuts,  simmer  till  tender,  finish 
with  port  wine;  served  garnished  with  the  chest- 
nuts and  a  fancy  crouton. 

SALPICON  OF  DUCK  IN  CASES— Cold  braised 
duck  and  some  of  the  sauce,  the  duck  cut  into 
small  neat  pieces  with  a  few  mushrooms,  re- 
heated in  the  sauce;  served  in  fancy  paper 
cases  on  lace  paper. 

CURRY  OF  DUCK  WITH  RICE— Ducks  singed, 
drawn  and  washed,  steamed  for  half  an  hour, 
taken  up,  jointed,  rubbed  with  curry  powder, 
rolled  in  flour;  onions  sliced  and  fried  a  light 
brown  in  butter,  taken  up,  joints  then  fried  in 
the  same  butter,  onions  then  returned,  flour 
aaded,  shook  together,  moistened  with  poultry 
stock,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  curry  powder 
grated  green  apple,  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of 
an  orange,  simmered  till  tender,  duck  then 
taken  up  into  another  saucepan,  the  sauce 
strained  over  it;  served  garnished  with  small 
molds  of  dry  boiled  rice. 


celery,  a  few  cloves,  bay  leaves,  whole  peppers    STEWED    DUCK    WITH    TURNIPS  —  Ducks 


and  some  sage  leaves;  ducks  arranged  on  top 
moistened  with  white  stock  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon  with  its  grated  rind,  lid  put  on,  braised 
and  basted  in  oven  till  brown  and  tender,  ducks 
then  taken  up,  the  braise  str'vined  and  skimmed, 
poured  over  the  ducks  in  ser»'ing  pan;  Julienne 
vegetables  sauteed  and  seasoned;  served,  por- 
tions of  duck  with  sauce  over,  garnished  with 
croutons  at  ends  of  dish  and  the  Julienne  vege- 
tables at  the  sides. 

SALMIS  OF  DUCK  IN  CROUSTADE— Neat 
shaped  slices  of  cold  duck  made  hot  in  a  thick 
Madeira  sauce,  to  which  is  added  slices  of  mush- 
rooms and  callops  of  salt  pork  that  have  been 
fried  together,  the  sauce  to  be  seasoned  with 
powdered  sage  and  orange  juice;  served  in  paste 
croustade  cases,  on  lace  paper. 

SALMIS  OF  DUCK  WITH  FRIED  HOMINY 
Ducks  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  floured,  roasted  and  basted 
till  brown  and  frothy,  taken  up  and  cut  into  por- 
tions; in  the  meantime  the  trimmmgs  of  the 
birds  are  sauteed  in  olive  oil  with  minced  shall 
lots,  chives,  thyme  and  bay  leaves,  then  moist- 
ened with  white  wine  and  reduced;  equal  quan- 
tities of  Bigarade  and  Espagnole  sauce  then 
added  with  a  few  minced  mushrooms,  the  whole 
boiled    up  and  skimmed;    poured    through  a 


singed,  drawn  and  washed,  steamed  for  half  an 
hour,  taken  up,  rolled  in  flour,  fried  whole  in 
butter,  taken  up  and  cut  into  portions;  large 
balls  of  turnip  fried  in  butter,  taken  up  and 
placed  with  the  duck;  in  the  remaining  butter 
is  then  fried  some  minced  shallots  with  sage 
and  thyme  leaves,  flour  added  to  form  a  roux, 
moistened  with  poultry  stock,  boiled  up  and 
skimmed,  strained  over  the  ducks  and  turnips, 
which  are  then  simmered  till  tender;  served 
garnished  with  the  turnips  and  croutons. 
BRAISED  DUCK  WITH  SAUERKRAUT  — 
Ducks  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  then  trussed, 
arranged  in  brasiere  with  carrots,  onion  stuck 
with  cloves,  celery  and  parsley,  moistened  with 
seasoned  white  stock,  covered  with  buttered 
paper,  lid  put  on,  braised  till  tender  and  glazy, 
taken  up,  braise  strained  and  skimmed,  ducks 
cut  into  portions  and  the  braise  strained  over 
them.  Sauerkraut  well  washed,  put  in  a  sautoir 
with  a  piece  of  bacon,  a  piece  of  small  bologna, 
carrot,  onion  and  parsley,  moistened  with  some 
fat  and  broth  from  the  stock  pot,  stewed  slowly 
for  two  hours,  then  taken  up  and  drained;  vege- 
tables thrown  away,  bacon  and  sausage  cut  in 
slices;  served,  portions  of  duck  flanked  with  the 
the  kraut  and  garnished  with  the  bacon  and 
sausage. 


76 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


FILLETS  OF  DUCKLING.  MACEDOINE— 
Ducklings  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  then 
steamed  for  ten  minutes  to  plump  them,  taken 
up,  cooled,  cut  into  four  fillets,  the  backbones 
then  roasted  with  vegetables;  when  browui 
moistened  with  Bigarade  sauce,  boiled  up  and 
strained  over  a  cooked  macedoine  of  vegetables, 
the  fillets  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  powdered 
sage  and  thyme,  rolled  in  flour,  arranged  in 
buttered  baking  pan,  roasted  and  basted  till 
brown  and  frothy;  served  on  a  crouton  garnished 
with  the  macedoine  in  sauce. 

FRIED  FILLETS  OF  DUCKLING,  SAUCE 
BIGARADE — Ducklings  prepared  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding, but  instead  of  roasting,  fried  a  golden 
color  with  butter;  served  on  toast  with  Bigarade 
sauce  poured  over,  garnished  with  watercress. 

ROAST  SPRING  DUCK,  APPLE  SAUCE  — 
Young  ducks  singed,  drawn,  washed  and  trussed, 
steamed  for  five  minutes,  taken  up,  seasoned, 
rolled  in  flour,  arranged  in  baking  pan,  roasted 
and  basted  till  done;  served  in  portions  with 
unsweetened  stewed  apples  that  have  been 
rubbed  through  a  sieve. 

STUFFED  DUCKLING,  ORANGE  SAUCE— 
Ducklings  singed,  drawn,  washed,  filled  with  a 
stuffing  composed  of  fresh  grated  breadcrumbs, 
grated  apple  and  lemon  rind,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley  and  a  little  sage^ 
trussed,  then  steamed  for  ten  minutes,  arranged 
in  a  baking  pan,  dredged  with  flour,  roasted 
and  basted  till  done;  served  with  a  brown  sauce 
made  in  the  pan  they  were  roasted  in,  flavored 
with  grated  sour  orange  rind  and  its  juice. 

SAUTE  OF  DUCK  WITH  NOODLES— Ducks 
singed,  drawn,  washed  and  trussed,  steamed 
for  half  an  hour,  taken  up  and  cut  into  portions, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  sage, 
rolled  in  flour,  fried  in  butter,  placed  in  a 
sautoir,  dredged  with  flour,  moistened  with  thin 
Bigarade  sauce,  simmered  lill  tender;  noodles 
boiled  till  done,  taken  up  and  drained,  then 
mixed  with  a  little  minced  chervil,  and  the 
ducks'  giblets  minced  and  sauteed;  served,  the 
duck  in  portions  flanked  with  the  noodles. 

STEWED  DUCK  WITH  STUFFED  TOMA- 
TOES— Ducks  singed,  drawn  and  washed, 
filled  with  a  stuffing  composed  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs mixed  with  minced  ham,  mushrooms, 
anchovies,  shallot,  parsley,  salt  and  pepper, 
trussed,  steamed  for  ten  minutes,  arranged  in 
sautoir,  moistened  with  stock  and  white  wine, 
lid  put  on,  simmered  till  done;  served  with  the 
stuffing  under  each  portion,  garnished  with 
stuffed  small  tomatoes,  tomato  sauce  poured 
around. 

STEWED  DUCK  WITH  PUREE  OF  PEAS— 
Ducks  singed,  drawn,  washed  and  trussed, 
stewed  till  tender  in  white  stock  containing  a 
few  cloves,  a  clove  of  garlic,   onion,  thyme, 


parsley  and  bay  leaves;  v/hen  tender,  taken  up 
and  cut  into  portions,  the  broth  reduced  to  a 
half  glaze  with  the  addition  of  some  V^lout^ 
sauce,  dried  green  peas  boiled  with  a  few  sprigs 
of  mint  and  a  little  sugar;  when  done,  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  then  mixed  to  a  stiff  consist- 
ency with  the  reduced  sauce;  serve  the  duck 
in  portions  masked  with  the  peas  puree. 

STUFFED  DUCK,  ITALIAN  SAUCE— Ducks 
singed,  drawn,  washed,  filled  with  a  mixture  of 
breadcrumbs  mixed  with  small  pieces  of  fried 
liver  and  bacon,  thyme,  truffles,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  powdered  sage,  bound  with 
egg  yolks,  trussed,  steamed  for  half  an  hour, 
taken  up,  rolled  in  flour,  arranged  in  buttered 
baking  pan,  roasted  and  basted  till  tender; 
served  in  portions  with  the  stuffing  under,  and 
Italian  sauce  (brown)  poured  over. 

SCALLOPED  DUCKS'  LIVERS— Livers  sliced, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  mixed  spices, 
sauteed  in  butter  with  a  few  minced  shallots 
and  mushrooms,  chopped  parsley  and  a  minced 
clove  of  garlic,  pour  off  the  remaining  butter, 
add  a  few  grated  breadcrumbs,  moisten  lightly 
with  Bigarade  sauce,  fill  into  deep  oval  or  scal- 
lop dishes  or  shells,  sprinkle  with  sifted 
crumbs,  baste  with  butter,  brown  off  the  top 
and  serve. 

BROCHETTE  OF  DUCKS'  LIVERS- Livers 
sliced,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  mixed 
spices,  lightly  sauteed  with  butter,  then  run  on 
a  skewer  alternately  with  thin  slices  of  par- 
boiled bacon;  when  skewer  is  full,  rolled  in 
melted  butter,  then  in  sifted  breadcrumbs, 
broiled  till  done;  served  on  a  strip  of  toast 
with  Hanover  sauce  at  the  sides,  garnished 
with  cress  and  lemon. 

STEWED  DUCKS'  GIBLETS  IN  BORDER- - 
Livers  and  hearts  sliced  and  sauteed  with  but- 
ter, gizzards  sliced  and  simmered  in  white 
seasoned  stock  till  tender,  then  taken  up  and 
drained;  hearts,  livers  and  gizzards  then  mixed 
into  a  mushroom  sauce;  simmered  till  done; 
fancy  border  of  mashed  potatoes  arranged  on 
serving  dish  one  inch  from  the  edge,  giblets 
placed  in  the  centre,  with  green  peas  around 
the  potatoes. 

DUCKS'  GIBLET  SOUP-  Made  the  same  as 
chicken  giblet  soup  (which  see)  substituting  the 
ducks'  giblets. 

D'UXELLES— Name  of  a  very  thick  sauce  gen- 
erally used  to  coat  cutlets  before  breading 
them,  composed  of  %  each  chopped  parsley 
and  minced  fried  shallots  and  |^  minced  sau- 
teed mushooms,  all  worked  into  a  thick  V^lout^ 
sauce;  or  instead  of  ^  minced  mushrooms,  X 
need  only  be  used  and  the  other  %  be  minced 
cooked  ham  or  tongue. 

DUTCH  SAUCE— Another  name  for  Hollan- 
daise   sauce,    which  is  made  by  taking  half  a 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


77 


cupful  of  white  sauce  and  working  into  it  a 
small  piece  of  glace,  half  a  cupful  of  melted 
butter,  6  yolks  of  eggs,  bringing  it  slowly  to  a 
custard-like  thickness  over  a  medium  fire,  then 
seasoning  it  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice. 

ECARLATE— A  French  term  often  seen  on  bills 
of  fare  as  "a  I'ecarlate.  It  is  used  to  signify 
that  the  food  is  red,  and  its  natural  color  pre- 
served. 

ECLAIRS — A  hollow  form  made  of  "choux- 
paste"  that  is  filled  with  pastry  cream,  with  the 
top  generally  coated  with  chocolate  glaze. 

EELS — Are  of  two  kinds,  the  river  or  fresh  water 
eel,  and  the  sea  or  conger  eel.  The  flesh  of 
the  river  eel  is  sweet,  fine  grained  and  dainty; 
that  of  the  sea  eel  is  coarse  grained  and  oily; 
they  must  always  be  skinned  before  using:  to 
do  which  a  little  silver  sand  is  used  to  hold  the 
the  eel  by  the  head.  With  a  sharp  knife  make 
a  circle  round  the  neck,  force  down  the  skin  an 
inch  or  so,  and  then  with  a  steady  pull  the  skin 
will  strip  off  easily. 

STEWED  EELS,  LONDON  STYLE— A  most 
simple  and  dainty  dish,  made  by  cutting  river 
eels  into  two-ioch  lengths,  boiling  them  till 
done  in  a  parsley  butter  sauce  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  vinegar;  served  in  soup 
plates  with  bread  and  butter. 

GRILLED  EELS,  LONDON  STYLE— River 
eels  skinned,  coiled  round  and  kept  in  shape 
with  a  small  skewer,  dipped  into  beaten  eggs, 
then  coated  with  a  mixture  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs, lemon  rind,  chopped  parsley  and 
thyme  leaves,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg;  broiled  a 
golden  color  and  served  with  horseradish,  with 
the  option  of  tartar  sauce. 

BAKED  EELS,  LONDON  STYLE— River  eels 
skinned,  coiled  round,  pinned  into  shape  with 
a  skewer,  coated  with  D'Uxelles  sauce,  rolled 
in  breadcrumbs,  arranged  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  the  inside  of  the  coil  filled  with  a  piping 
of  fish  forcemeat;  brushed  with  butter,  baked  a 
golden  brown;  served  with  Admiral  sauce. 

BOILED  EELS.  MAITRE  D'HOTEL— River 
eels  cut  into  finger  lengths,  boiled  fifteen  min- 
utes in  salted  water;  served  with  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  with  some  Maitre  D'Hotel 
butter  poured  over  the  eels. 

ROAST  EELS,  ANCHOVY  BUTTER— River 
eels  skinned,  coiled,  fastened  with  skewers, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  wrapped  in  but- 
tered paper,  roasted  in  medium  oven  till  done, 
taken  up,  paper  removed,  spread  with  anchovy 
butter;  served  very  hot  with  a  sprig  of  parsley 
and  slice  of  lemon  inside  the  coiled  eel. 

FRIED  EELS,  SHRIMP  SAUCE— River  eels 
skinned,  cut  into  finger  lengths;  marinade  them 
over  night  in  a  mixture  of  vinegar,  grated  lemon 
rind,  salt,  pepper  and  thyme,   then  taken  up, 


drained,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  shrimp 
sauce. 

MATELOTE  OF  EELS— River  eels  skinned, 
cut  into  finger  lengths,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  lightly  fried  in  butter, 
taken  up,  add  to  the  butter  they  are  fried  in 
some  white  or  red  wine,  thyme,  marjoram,  fish 
stock,  red  pepper,  a  few  cloves  and  minced 
shallots,  rapidly  reduce;  then  is  added  V^lout^ 
sauce,  boiled  up,  skimmed,  strained  over  the 
eels  in  another  sautoir,  finished  by  adding  some 
button  mushrooms,  blanched  oysters  or  mussels, 
and  season  with  lemon  juice;  served  garnished 
with  fancy  crofltons. 

FRICASSEE  OF  EELS— River  eels  skinned, 
cut  into  finger  lengths,  put  to  boil  in  fish  stock 
with  a  little  white  wine,  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  a  few  minced  shallots,  bunch  of  herbs, 
salt  and  whole  peppers;  when  done,  taken  up 
into  a  sautoir,  the  liquor  reduced,  then  strained 
into  a  thick  Hollandaise  sauce,  containing 
chopped  parsley;  eels  placed  into  the  finished 
sauce;  served  with  a  garnish  of  fancy  crofltons. 

BROCHETTE  OF  EELS,  TARTAR  SAUCE— 
For  recipe,  see  heading  of  Brochette. 

BRAISED  EELS,  ALLEMANDE  SAUCE— 
River  eels  skinned  and  cut  into  finger  lengths, 
sprinkled  with  salt,  allowed  to  remain  with  the 
salt  on  for  half  an  hour,  then  washed  in  cold 
water,  drained,  arranged  in  a  sautoir  with  a 
little  butter,  parsley,  whole  peppers,  slices  of 
lemon,  minced  shallots,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg 
and  a  few  slices  of  bacon,  moistened  with  a  lit- 
tle fish  stock  and  braised  till  done,  taken  up  in- 
to another  sautoir,  braise  strained  and  skimmed, 
then  mixed  into  AUemande  sauce  which  is 
poured  over  the  eels;  served  with  them,  garn- 
ished with  croiltons. 

BROILED  BONED  EELS— River  eels  skinned 
and  cut  into  finger  lengths,  split  down  the  back 
and  the  bone  removed,  seasoned  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  nutmeg,  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  then 
rolled  in  sifted  breadcrumbs,  seasoned  with 
powdered  herbs  and  pepper,  broiled  and  basted 
till  done;  served  on  toast  with  anchovy  butter, 
garnished  with  lemon. 

ORLY  OF  EELS— Prepared  and  boned  as  in 
the  preceding,  but  instead  of  breading  they  are 
dipped  in  batter,  fried,  and  served  with  rings  of 
crisp  fried  onions. 

EEL  SALAD — River  eels  skinned  and  boned,  cut 
into  short  finger  lengths,  laid  in  salted  water 
for  an  hour,  then  taken  up  and  wiped  dry,  ar- 
ranged in  baking  pan,  sprinkled  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  mixed  ground  spices,  moistened  with 
water  and  a  little  vinegar,  adding  a  little  dis- 
solved gelatine,  bake  till  done  and  glazy;  served 
cold  masked  with  ravigote  or  tartar  sauce, 
garnished  with  slices  of  cacumber. 


78 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ROAST  STUFFED  CONGER  EEL,  ADMIRAL 
SAUCE — Portion  cuts  skinned  and  boned, 
laid  for  two  hours  in  salted  vinegar  with 
chopped  sweet  herbs,  taken  up,  filled  with  veal 
stuflSng,  tied  round  with  string,  rolled  in  flour, 
arranged  in  baking  pan,  roasted  and  basted  till 
done;  served  with  Admiral  sauce. 

BOILED  CONGER  EEL,  ALLEMANDE 
SAUCE — Portion  cuts  skinned  and  boned,  tied 
round  with  string,  blanched,  then  placed  in 
sautoir  with  bay  leaves,  onions,  parsley,  whole 
peppers,  little  garlic,  salt  and  vinegar;  cover 
with  water,  simmered  till  done,  taken  up  and 
drained;  served  with  Allemande  sauce,  garn- 
ished with  parsley  and  lemon. 

FRIED  CONGER  EEL,  TARTAR  SAUCE— 
Portion  cuts  skinned  and  boned,  steamed  for 
ten  minutes,  then  seasoned  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, breaded,  fried;  served  with  Tartar  sauce, 
garnished  with  parsley  and  lemon. 

CURRIED  CONGER  EEL  WITH  RICE— Por- 
tion cuts  skinned  and  boned,  marinaded  for  an 
hour  in  salt  water  and  vinegar,  taken  up, 
rinsed  in  cold  water,  wiped  dry,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  fried  with  but- 
ter, removed  into  a  sautoir;  minced  onions, 
chives  and  a  clove  of  garlic  fried  in  the  remain- 
ing butter,  flour  added  to  form  a  roux,  moist- 
ened with  fish  stock,  brought  to  the  boil  and 
skimmed,  then  simmered  for  half  an  hour;  the 
eels  sprinkled  with  curry  powder,  sauce 
strained  over  them,  simmered  till  done,  finished 
with  cayenne  pepper  and  lemon  juice;  served 
inside  a  border  of  dry  boiled  grains  of  rice. 

EEL-PdiJT — Is  a  combination  of  eel,  catfish  and 
some  other  kind  of  fish;  breeds  its  young  alive 
instead  of  with  eggs;  is  more  often  called  the 
"BURBOT".  It  is  good  boiled  and  served  with 
oyster  sauce. 

EGGS — That  is,  hen's  eggs  as  most  generally 
used  in  cookery  (other  birds'  eggs  will  be  found 
under  their  respective  headings)  are  very 
nutritious,  easily  digested,  and  are  used  in  a 
multitude  of  ways,  but  the  following  recipes 
will  be  found  to  be  those  most  applicable  to 
ordinary  hotel,  restaurant  and  club  patronage. 
[Inexperienced  hotel  butchers  have  spoiled 
much  meat  through  their  brine,  by  using  the  egg 
test  for  strength,  the  test  being  that  when  the 
brine  will  float  an  egg  it  is  just  right.  If  he 
used  a  potato  the  same  size  as  an  egg  he  would 
be  more  sure,  for  a  new  laid  egg  will  sink  to  the 
bottom  of  a  brine  and  stay  there;  while  a  bad 
egg  will  float  and  every  day's  age  to  the  egg 
from  the  newly  laid  brings  it  more  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  same  strength  of  brine.  MORAL: 
weigh  and  measure  your  salt 
water]  (see  heading  of  brine). 


melted  butter  dripped  over  the  eggs,  placed  in 
oven  till  set. 

SCRAMBLED  EGGS— Four-fifths  broken  eggs 
(not  beaten),  one  fifth  cream,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  little  melted  butter,  ladleful  (made  to  hold 
three  eggs)  poured  into  hot  buttered  frying  pan, 
stirred  about  or  shook  till  softly  set;  served 
either  plain  or  on  buttered  toast. 

POACHED  EGGS— Eggs  removed  from  shell, 
dropped  into  simmering  salted  water  contain- 
ing a  dash  of  vinegar;  when  set,  taken  up 
drained;  served  plain  or  on  buttered  toast. 

CURRIED  EGGS— Hard  boiled  eggs  with  their 
shells  removed,  reheated  in  a  curry  sauce  made 
from  poultry  stock;  bed  of  rice  in  centre 
of  dish  sprinkled  with  finely  chopped  parsley; 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon  indentures  made  to 
receive  the  eggs;  served  with  the  sauce  poured 
around  the  base. 

STUFFED  EGGS— Hard  boiled  eggs  with  their 
shells  removed,  split  lengthwise,  yolks  removed 
and  pounded  with  anchovy  meat  and  butter, 
filled  back  into  the  whites,  smoothed  over,  dec- 
orated and  served. 

DEVILLED  EGGS— Hard  boiled  eggs  with  their 
shells  removed,  split  in  halves  lengthwise, 
dipped  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  oil,  sprinkled  with 
salt  and  red  pepper,  arranged  in  baking  pan  on 
a  sheet  of  oiled  paper,  thoroughly  heated; 
served  on  toast  with  sauce  Diable  poured  over, 
into  which  has  been  mixed  some  Bengal  chut- 
ney. 

MASKED  EGGS,  MADEIRA  SAUCE— Hard 
boiled  eggs  with  the  shells  removed,  coated 
with  chicken  forcemeat,  then  dipped  into  beaten 
egg,  baked;  served  with  Madeira  sauce  poured 
over,  garnished  with  fancy  crofltons. 

EGG  RAREBIT— Hard  boiled  eggs  with  the 
shells  removed,  cut  lengthwise  in  slices,  ar- 
ranged on  serving  platter,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  covered  with  a  mixture  of  grated 
cheese  mixed  with  butter,  browned  off  in  oven; 
served  very  hot. 

MOLDED  EGGS,  PROVENCALE  SAUCE— 
Timbale  molds  brushed  with  butter,  bottoms 
sprinkled  with  minced  fried  shallots,  eggs  then 
broken  in,  a  little  Creole  garniture  placed 
en  top.  Baked  till  set,  turned  out  on  serving 
dish;  served  with  Provenpale  sauce  poured  over 
and  around. 

EGGS,  AU  GRATIN— Slices  of  hard  boiled  eggs 
in  a  gratin  dish  covered  with  white  sauce,  then 
sprinkled  with  cheese  and  sifted  breadcrumbs, 
baked  and  served, 
saltpetre  and  EGG  PATTIES— Small  squares  of  hard  boiled 
eggs  mixed  into  a  rich  Supreme  sauce  with  a 
SHIRRED   EGGS— Shirred   egg  dish  buttered,        few  mushrooms,  filled  into  hot  puff  paste  patty 


eggs  broken  into  it,  two  or  three  drops  of  clear       shells. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


79 


SALPICON  OF  EGGS— Yolks  and  whites  of  eggs 
steamed  separately  till  set;  when  cold,  cut  in 
slices,  then  stamped  out  with  column  cutter  to- 
gether with  tongue,  truffles  and  mushrooms, 
the  whole  then  mixed  into  a  rich  V^lout^  sauce; 
served  garnished  with  fancy  buttered  toast. 

EGGS,  INDIAN  STYLE— Into  a  soubise  sauce 
is  worked  enough  curry  powder  to  lightly  color 
it,  brought  to  a  simmer,  eggs  poached  in  it; 
served  on  circular  slices  of  toast  with  some 
sauce  poured  around. 

EGGS  BREADED,  CREOLE  SAUCE— Eggs 
boiled  five  minutes,  shelled,  dipped  in  thick 
Hollandaise  sauce,  then  in  breadcrumbs,  then 
breaded  and  fried;  served  with  Cr^le  sauce  or 
garniture. 

EGGS  WITH  BROWN  BUTTER— Eggs  fried 
with  plenty  of  butter  that  is  hot  enough  to  turn 
a  nice  brown  color  and  froth  up;  when  set, 
taken  up  on  toast;  to  the  frothing  butter  is  then 
added  a  little  tarragon  vinegar,  poured  over  the 
eggs  and  served  immediately. 


OMELET  WITH  CEPES-Cut  the  chpes  into 
dice;  fry  in  butter  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
pour  off  the  butter,  and  pour  in  the  omelet 
mixture;  form  and  serve. 

OMELET  WITH  CHEESE— Mix  grated  cheese 
with  the  beaten  eggs,  in  proportion  of  one-third 
cheese  to  two- thirds  beaten  eggs,  form  the  ome- 
let, when  placed  on  the  serving  dish  sprinkle  a 
little  grated  cheese  on  top  of  the  omelet  an^ 
brown  off  very  quickly  in  a  hot  oven. 

OMELET  WITH  CHICKEN  LIVERS— Blanch 
the  livers,  then  cut  them  into  dice,  fry  them 
lightly  in  butter  for  ten  minutes  with  some 
minced  shallots  and  mushrooms,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  add  a  little  chopped  pars- 
ley, enclose  a  spoonful  within  the  omelet,  and 
serve  a  little  Hanover  sauce  at  both  ends  of 
the  omelet. 

OMELET    WITH    CHIPPED     BEEF— Scald, 
drain,  and  mince  the  dried  beef,   mix  it  with 
the  beaten  eggs,  and  form  the  omelet,   pour  a 
little  cream  sauce  around  when  serving. 
FRICASSEE    OF    EGGS  —  Yolks  and  whites    OMELET  WITH   HAM— Cooked  minced  ham 


steamed  separately  till  set;  when  cold  scooped 
out  with  oval  cutter,  made  hot  in  an  onion 
cream  sauce  and  served. 

EGGS  WITH  CAVIARE— Slices  of  hard  boiled 
eggs  on  buttered  toast,  the  yolk  covered  with 
caviare  forced  through  a  bag  and  star  tube. 

EGGS  IN  CROUSTADE— Whites  and  yolks  of 
eggs  steamed  till  set;  when  cold,  cut  in  form  of 
dice  with  equa>  quantities  of  ham,  tongue  and 
button  mushrooms,  reheated  in  Supreme  sauce, 
filled  into  hot  paste  croustades  and  served. 

EGGS   SCRAMBLED  WITH    TOMATOES— 


made  hot  in  Madeira  sauce  enclosed  within  the 
omelet. 

Raw  minced  Ham  with  a  little  minced  shallot 
and  parsley  fried  till  done,  omelet  mixture 
poured  over  it,  formed  and  served. 

Minced  fried  ham  beaten  up  with  the  eggs, 
poured  into  an  omelet  pan,  formed  and  served. 

OMELET  WITH  LAMB  KIDNEYS,  auMad^re 
—Cut  the  kidneys  into  small  dice  and  fry  them 
with  minced  shallots  for  three  minutes,  add  a 
little  Madeira  sauce  and  chopped  parsley,  en- 
close a  spoonful  within  the  omelet  and  pour 
some  of  the  sauce  around. 


One  cupful  of  minced  onions,  12  medium  sized  _  _     .     . 

tomatoes  rubbed  through  a  sieve,   mixed,  seas-    OMELET  WITH  SWEETBREADS -Cooked 

sweetbreads,  cut  in  dice,  simmered  in  mush- 
room sauce,  a  spoonful  enclosed  within  the 
omelet  and  a  little  sauce  poured  around. 
OMELET  WITH  MUSHROOMS  — If  fresh 
mushrooms,  peel,  trim  and  cut  into  dice  and 
fry.  If  canned,  cut  them  in  thin  slices  and  fry; 
drain  and  mix  them  into  Madeira  sauce,  enclose 
a  spoonful  in  the  omelet,  serve  with  a  spoonful 
of  the  mushrooms  at  each  end  of  the  dish. 
OMELET  WITH  SHRIMPS,  MEXICAN 
STYLE — Take  fresh  or  canned  shrimps,  cut 
in  halves,  mix  with  some  finely  chopped  green 
peppers,  put  it  into  a  V^lout^  sauce  containing 
some  lobster  butter,  simmer  for  five  minutes, 
enclose  a  spoonful  within  the  omelet,  turn  on 
to  the  serving  dish,  place  two  whole  shrimps  on 
top,  and  pour  some  of  the  sauce  around. 

OMELET  WITH  FINE  HERBS— Beat  up  with 
the  eggs,  some  finely  minced  shallots,  thyme, 
marjoram,  chervil,  chives  and  parsley,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  form  the  omelet  and  serve. 


oned  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  simmered 
till  onion  is  done,  12  eggs  then  broken  into  the 
simmering  mixture,  tossed  about  till  set;  served 
in  cases. 

SCRAMBLED  EGGS  IN  CASES— Eggs  beaten 
with  minced  green  herbs,  salt  and  pepper, 
scrambled  with  plenty  of  butter;  served  in 
fancy  paper  cases. 

EGGS  WITH  ONION  PUREE— Slices  of  hot 
hard  boiled  eggs  arranged  around  a  centre  of 
thick  pur^e  of  onions  in  Velout^  sauce. 

OMELET  WITH  BACON— Plain  or  with  Pi- 
quante  sauce.  Cut  the  bacon  into  small  dice, 
fry  fairly  well  done,  pour  off  most  of  the  fat, 
turn  in  the  beaten  eggs,  mix  and  form. 

OMELET  WITH  VEAL  KIDNEYS— Roasted 
kidneys  cut  in  dice,  and  made  hot  in  a  little 
demi-glaze  and  chopped  parsley.  Enclose  the 
mixture  within  the  omelet;  serve  with  a  Madeira 
sauce  poured  around. 


8o 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


SPANISH  OMELET  —  Finely  shred  onions, 
minced  green  peppers,  minced  mushrooms, 
solid  tomatoes  cut  in  small  pieces,  the  whole 
fried  in  butter  for  five  minutes,  then  add  some 
tomato  sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  re- 
duce till  thick,  enclose  a  spoonful  within  the 
omelet;  when  on  the  serving  dish,  place  a  spoon- 
ful of  the  mixture  at  each  end  of  the  omelet  and 
garnish  the  top  with  fancy  strips  of  Pimentoes 
in  oil. 

OMELET  WITH  PARSLEY— Mix  some  finely 
chopped  parsley,  pepper  and  salt  with  the  beaten 
eggs,  form  and  serve. 

OMELET  WITH  TOMATOES— Stew  fresh  or 
canned  tomatoes  with  a  little  butter,  sugar,  salt 
and  pepper  to  a  thick  pulp,  enclose  within  the 
omelet,  pour  tomato  sauce  around, 

OMELET  WITH  TOMATOED  RICE— Take 
some  boiled  rice,  and  moisten  ii  with  reduced 
tomato  sauce,  enclose  within  the  omelet,  and 
pour  tomato  sauce  around, 

OMELET  WITH  OYSTERS— Scald  the  oysters, 
cut  them  in  quarters,  put  them  into  a  rich  oyster 
sauce,  enclose  a  spoonful  within  the  omelet; 
when  on  the  serving  dish  place  three  whole 
scalded  oysters  on  top  of  the  omelet,  pour  some 
oyster  sauce  over  all,  and  sprinkle  with  parsley 
dust. 

OMELET  WITH  FRENCH  PEAS  — Simmer 
some  French  peas  in  reduced  V^loute  sauce  till 
thick;  place  a  spoonful  within  the  omelet  and  a 
spoonful  at  each  end  of  the  omelet  on  the  serv- 
ing dish,  with  cream  sauce  poured  around. 

OMELET  WITH  EGG  PLANT— Cut  the  egg 
plant  into  dice,  fry  it  in  butter;  when  done  add 
a  little  meat  glaze,  enclose  within  the  omelet 
and  pour  some  brown  sauce  around. 

OMELET  WITH  SPINACH— Beat  some  puree 
of  spinach  with  the  eggs,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  form  and  serve. 

OMELET  WITH  SPRING  VEGETABLES— 
Cut  a  jardiniere  or  macedoine  of  vegetables 
(or  use  canned  macedoine),  boil  till  tender, drain, 
moisten  with  a  little  demi-glaze  or  Suprfime 
sauce,  enclose  within  the  omelet,  and  decorate 
the  top  of  the  omelet  with  the  vegetables,  pour 
some  of  the  sauce  used  around. 

OMELET  WITH  ASPARAGUS  POINTS  — 
Take  cooked  asparagus  points,  make  them  hot 
in  Allemande  sauce,  enclose  within  the  omelet 
and  pour  some  of  the  sauce  around. 

OMELET  WITH  OLIVES— Take  the  olives, 
stone  them,  slice  them  into  four  slices,  make 
them  hot  in  Madeira  sauce,  enclose  within  the 
omelet,  decorate  the  top  of  the  omelet  with 
slices  of  olives,  and  pour  some  Soubise  sauce 
around. 

OMELET  WITH  MINCED  CHICKEN— Take 
minced  cooked  chicken,  moisten  it  with  V^lout^ 


sauce,  make  hot,  enclose  within   the  omelet, 
serve  with  Veloute  sauce  poured  around. 

CRfiOLE  OMELET— Chopped  green  peppers, 
onions,  garlic,  okras  and  a  little  boiled  ric©, 
made  hot  in  thick  tomato  sauce,  enclosed  within 
the  omelet,  and  spoonfuls  served  at  ends  of  the 
omelet  on  the  dish. 

EGG  PLANT,  TURKISH  STYLE— Peeled  egg 
plant  in  slices,  sprinkled  with  salt;  after  having 
laid  a  few  minutes,  wiped  dry,  then  fried  a 
golden  color  with  butter;  cold  rare  roast  beef 
minced  fine  with  a  very  little  onion,  mixed  with 
a  few  slices  of  peeled  tomatoes,  chopped  pars- 
ley, salt  and  pepper;  stewed  down  thick,  gratin 
dishes  buttered,  bottom  covered  with  the  egg 
plant,  mince  next,  this  covered  with  more  egg 
plant,  moistened  with  rich  roast  beef  gravy, 
baked  half  an  hour  and  served. 

FRIED  EGG  PLANT— Egg  plant  peeled,  cut  in 
slices,  sprinkled  with  salt  and  allowed  to  marin- 
ade for  an  hour,  then  wiped  dry,  rolled  in  flour, 
dipped  into  beaten  eggs,  fried  and  served. 

BROILED  EGG  PLANT  ON  TOAST— Peeled 
egg  plant  cut  in  slices,  sprinkled  with  salt  and 
allowed  to  remain  for  an  hour,  then  wiped  dry, 
rolled  in  flour,  then  in  melted  butter,  broiled 
and  basted;  served  on  buttered  toast. 

STUFFED  EGG  PLANT— Small  egg  plant  not 
peeled,  cut  in  halves  lengthwise,  part  of  centre 
scooped  out,  the  halves  then  fried  on  the  cut 
side;  the  scooped  out  part  mixed  with  some 
cooked  salt  pork,  button  mushrooms,  minced 
shallots,  chopped  chives  and  parsley,  filled  into 
the  openings,  piled  high,  smoothed  over  and 
baked. 

EGG  PLANT  FRITTERS— Peeled  egg  plant  cot 
!n  slices,  laid  for  an  hour  well  sprinkled  with 
salt,  then  wiped  dry,  dipped  in  batter,  slowly 
fried  in  hot  fat;  served  plain  as  a  vegetable  or 
as  an  accompaniment  to  meat. 

EGG  PLANT  WITH  CHEESE— Make  "the 
broiled  egg  plant  on  toast"  mentioned  above; 
when  finished  and  on  the  toast,  cover  it  with  a 
slice  of  cheese,  place  in  hot  oven  till  cheese  is 
melted  and  browned;  served  at  once. 

EGG  PLANT  STEWED— Peeled  egg  plant  cut 
in  pieces  size  of  small  eggs,  cold  roast  beef  or 
mutton  cut  in  small  pieces  and  mixed  into  a 
rich  gravy  with  a  minced  onion  and  peeled  to- 
matoes, brought  to  the  boil,  egg  plant  then  put 
in,  simmered  till  done,  then  served. 

ENDIVE— Also  called  CHICORY— Is  cooked  as 
a  vegetable  same  as  spinach;  also  made  into 
salads,  using  the  white  leaves;  dressed  with 
French  dressing. 

EPIGRAMME— A  term  used  in  cookery  to  denote 
one  kind  of  meat  served  in  two  forms  on  the 
same  dish,  such  as,  two  chops,  one  breaded  and 
fried,  the  other  broiled;  served  resting  on  each 
other.     See  beading  of  respective  meats. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


8l 


ESPAGNOLE— Name  of  a  stock  sauce,  used  as 
a  basis  to  form  many  of  the  brown  sauces; 
made  by  frying  in  a  thick  bottomed  large  sauce- 
pan till  brown,  ham,  veal  and  beef  in  meat  and 
bones;  carrots,  onions,  turnips,  celery  and  pars- 
ley; flour  then  added  to  form  a  roux,  moistened 
gradually  with  good  brown  stock,  seasoned  with 
thyme,  savory,  marjoram,  bay  leaves,  cloves, 
whole  peppers,  and  whole  allspice;  when  boiled 
np,  skimmed,  then  is  added  a  liberal  quantity 
of  tomatoes,  together  with  one  or  two  old  fowls 
or  roast  poultry  carcasses,  simmered  slowly  for 
several  hours,  strained,  skimmed,  finished  with 
sherry  wine. 

EXTRACTS— Or  flavorings  used  in  the  making 
of  ice  creams,  jellies,  cakes,  puddings,  sweet 
sauces,  etc.,  can  be  made  much  cheaper  than 
buying  at  the  stores  and  paying  for  fancy  labels 
and  bottles;  the  point  is  to  obtain  good  oils  and 
pure  alcohol. 

EXTRACT  OF  CLOVES— 2  ozs.  oil  of  cloves,  i 
pint  of  alcohol,  mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  ANISEED— i  02.  of  oil  of  anise, 
I  pint  of  alcohol,  mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  CINNAMON— i  oz.  oil  of  cinna- 
mon, I  pint  of  alcohol,  mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  BITTER  ALMOND— 2  ozs.  oil 
of  bitter  almond,  i  pint  of  alcohol,  mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  LEMON— 2  ozs.  oil  of  lemon,  i 
pint  of  alcohol,  mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  WINTERGREEN— i  oz.  oil  of 
wintergreen,  i  quart  of  alcohol,   mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  SARSAPARILLA— i  02.  each  of 
oils  of  sassafras  and  wintergreen,  i  quart  of  al- 
cohol, mix  and  use. 

EXTRACT  OF  VANILLA— 2  ozs.  of  vanilla 
beans,  6  ozs.  of  alcohol,  12  ozs.  of  water;  cut 
the  beans  small  and  bruise  them,  put  them 
in  wide  mouthed  bottles,  cover  with  the  alco- 
hol and  water,  steep  for  two  weeks,  shaking  it 
up  every  two  days. 

FARINA — A  fine  granular  pieparation  made  from 
wheat.  Of  two  kinds,  white  and  graham,  the  lat- 
ter being  used  as  a  breakfast  cereal,  the  former 
for  paddings,  quenelles  and  as  a  soup  thicken- 
ing. 

BAKED  FARINA  PUDDING— 1  gallon  of  milk, 
I  pound  of  farina,  %  oi  n  pound  of  sugar,  }4  a 
pound  of  butter,  5  whole  and  6  yolks  of  eggs; 
made  by  boiling  the  milk  and  sugar  together, 
then  sprinkling  in  the  farina,  stirring  continu- 
ally till  smooth,  simmered  for  ^  of  an  hour, 
then  is  added  the  beaten  eggs  and  butter;  flav- 
ored to  taste;  poured  into  buttered  pudding 
pans,  baked  till  set;  served  with  a  sweet  or 
wine  sauce,  preserved  fruit,  or  compote  of 
stewed  fruit. 

BOILED  FARINA  PUDDING  —  Generally 
served  cold  with  sweetened  or  flavored  cream, 


whipped  cream,  stewed  fmit  or  fmit  marma- 
lade; if  after  it  is  boiled  it  is  poured  into  cups 
and  set,  they  are  called  Farina  cup  custards. 
Made  with  ^  gallon  of  milk,  ^  pound  of  sugar, 
^  pound  of  farina,  X  °^  ^  pound  of  hotter  and 
SIX  yolks  of  eggs. 

FARINA  FRITTERS— The  above  mixture  when 
boiled  is  poured  into  a  shallow  pan  brushed 
with  butter;  when  cold  and  firm  cut  into  slices, 
double  breaded,  fried,  taken  up  and  rolled  in 
powdered  sugar;  served  with  fruit  sauce. 

FENNEL — Name  of  a  garden  plant,  esteemed  as 
a  flavoring  to  boiled  salmon  and  mackerel ;  used 
in  making  "fennel  sauce,"  which  is  the  same  as 
parsley  sauce,  simply  substituting  chopped 
fennel  for  parsley  leaves. 

FIGS — As  seen  in  our  markets  are  both  fresh  and 
dried;  the  fresh  are  used  in  compotes  and  for 
preserves,  the  dried  for  cakes,  puddings,  ices, 
pastilles;  also  used  as  a  dessert,  either  plain  or 
rolled  in  powdered  sugar. 

FINANClfiRE— Name  of  both  a  sauce  and  garn- 
ish, much  used;  the  sauce  is  composed  as  fol- 
lows: one  pint  of  sherry  wine  with  a  chopped 
truflBe  and  a  seasoning  of  red  pepper  is  rapidly 
boiled  down  to  half  its  volume,  then  is  added 
one  pint  of  espagnole;  boiled  again  for  five 
minutes,  then  strained  for  use.  For  the  garn- 
ish composition  see  heading  of  "garnishes." 

FINE  HERBS— Called  by  the  French  "fines- 
herbes";  it  is  a  combination  of  minced  shallots, 
mushrooms  and  parsley.  FINE  HERBS 
SAUCE  is  the  ingredients  mixed  into  some 
espagnole  or  other  brown  sauce. 

FINNAN  HADDIE— Is  the  name  commercially 
given  to  smoked  haddocks  (see  haddocks);  they 
are  imported  to  this  country  and  sell  generally 
at  10  cents  per  pound. 

BROILED  FINNAN  HADDIE— Skinned,  soaked 
in  warm  water  for  half  an  hour,  taken  up  and 
wiped  dry,  the  backbone  removed  from  the 
bone  side,  seasoned  with  pepper,  brushed  with 
butter,  broiled  and  basted;  served  very  hot 
with  a  sauce  composed  of  melted  butter,  contain- 
ing lemon  juice,  mustard  and  chopped  parsley. 

BOILED  FINNAN  HADDIE— Prepared  as  in 
the  preceding,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water,  (unless 
very  thick  three  or  four  minutes  boiling  is  suf- 
ficient) served  with  Miitre  D'Hotel  buttef 
spread  on  the  fish,  garnished  with  parsley. 

BAKED  FINNAN  HADDIE— Prepared  as  foi 
broiling,  arranged  in  baking  pan,  moistened 
witk  milk  and  melted  butter,  quickly  baked  and 
basted;  served  with  the  sauce  given  for  broiled. 

FINNAN  HADDIE,  DELMONICO  STYLE— 
Prepared  as  for  broiling,  the  fillets  then  arranged 
in  a  shallow  sautoir,  moistened  with  cream, 
boiled  for  five  minutes,  little  Madeira  wine 
then  added,  boiled  up  again,  then  is  stirred  in 


82 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream;  when  thick- 
ened like  thin  custard  a  little  more  Madeira 
wine  added;  served  very  hot  in  a  chafing  dish. 

FLAGEOLETS— A  green  haricot  bean  put  up  in 
cans  by  the  French  and  imported  to  this 
country;  makes  a  very  pleasing  garnish,  are 
cheap,  the  best  being  about  $1.75  a  dozen  cans. 

FLANNEL  CAKES  —  A  sort  of  pancake;  for 
recipe  see  heading  of  Batter. 

FLOUNDERS— A  flat  fish  of  the  halibut  species 
but  much  smaller,  in  plentiful  supply,  very 
often  filleted,  in  fact  generally  used  in  this 
country  for  fillets  of  soles;  the  name  flounder 
seldom  appears  on  our  bills  of  fare,  hence  its 
recipes  will  be  found  under  that  heading. 

FOIE-GRAS—  Literally  fat  liver,  is  made  by 
taking  the  livers  of  fat  geese,  cooking  them 
with  sweet  herbs,  wine  and  bacon,  then  pound- 
ing it,  rubbing  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  the 
paste  thus  obtained  being  put  away  in  small 
jars,  very  often  mixed  with  truffles;  it  is  used 
for  sandwiches,  garnishes,  in  croustades  with 
aspic  jelly;  cut  in  pieces  and  mixed  with  button 
mushrooms  in  a  rich  sauce,  then  filled  into 
scallop  shells,  gratinated,  baked  and  served; 
also  for  lining  game  pies  and  patties;  as  a  stuf- 
fing for  small  game  birds,  etc. 

FONDU — Is  the  name  given  by  the  French  to  a 
dish  of  eggs  scrambled  soft  with  grated  cheese 
and  butter;  served  very  hot  on  toast,  or  filled 
into  fancy  paper  cases,  quickly  browned  on  top 
and  served. 

FORCEMEAT— Name  given  to  a  highly  seasoned 
mince  that  has  been  rubbed  through  a  sieve; 
used  in  making  quenelles,  lining  pies,  etc. 

CHICKEN  FORCEMEAT— Raw  breast  of  chick- 
en with  the  skin  removed,  pounded,  rubbed 
through  a  tamis  mixed  with  a  little  cream  and 
strained  whites  of  raw  eggs,  seasoned  with  salt, 
red  pepper,  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice. 

VEAL  FORCEMEAT  OR  GODIVEAU—  Equal 
quantities  of  veal  or  beef  kidney  suet  and  lean 
veal  minced,  pounded,  rubbed  through  a  sieve 
with  chopped  chives,  then  is  mixed  in  yolks  of 
eggs  at  the  rate  of  two  to  each  pound  of  meat, 
then  finished  to  the  proper  consistency  with 
some  strained  cold  V^lout^  sauce. 

HAM  AND  LIVER  FORCEMEAT— Light  col- 
ored calf's  liver  and  fat  ham  in  equal  quantities 
cut  in  small  pieces,  the  liver  laid  in  clear  cold 
water  long  enough  to  extract  the  blood,  so  that 
the  forcemeat  will  be  whiter;  after  which  it  is 
drained  and  wiped,  the  ham  saut^ed  over  a 
quick  fire,  then  the  liver  in  the  ham  fat,  of  a 
golden  color  together  with  some  chopped  shal> 
lots,  j)arsley  and  mushrooms,  seasoned  with  red 
pepper,  salt  and  a  little  mixed  spices,  the 
whole  then  chopped  fine,  pounded,  rubbed 
through  a  sieve;  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 


FRANGIPANE— Name  given  to  a  cooked  cus- 
tard cream  used  iu  filling  puffs,  eclairs,  tart- 
lettes,  paper  cases  for  souffles,  open  pies  as 
cream  pies,  etc.  Made  by  boiling  half  a  gallon 
of  milk  with  ^  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  then  pour- 
ing it  to  12  yolks  of  eggs  that  have  been  beaten 
and  mixed  with  Yz  a  pound  of  sifted  flour  and 
a  little  cream;  it  is  then  returned  to  the  fire 
with  4  ounces  of  butter,  brought  just  to  a  boil, 
removed,  flavored  and  strained  for  use. 

FRANKFORTS— Name  of  a  pork  sausage  that 
is  generally  served  with  "sauerkraut."  Made 
of  equal  quantities  of  lean  and  fat  pork  minced 
finely,  seasoned  with  3  ounces  of  mixed  ground 
coriander  seeds,  salt,  nutmeg  and  pepper  to 
every  8  pounds,  the  sausage  skins  filled  in  the 
ordinary  way,  then  hung  in  a  dry  cool  place 
till  wanted. 

FRAPPfi — A  French  word  that  signifies  a  liquor 
is  half  frozen. 

FRENCH  DRESSING— Four  parts  of  olive  oil 
to  one  part  of  vinegar,  white  or  tarragon,  a 
little  onion  juice,  finely  chopped  parsley,  salt 
and  red  pepper,  the  whole  thoroughly  mixed. 

FRIANTINE — French  word  sometimes  used  to 
designate  a  "bouch^e"  or  small  patty  shell, 
hence  a  small  patty  of  game  may  be  called  a 
friantine  of  game. 

FRICADELLES,  ALSO  CALLED  FRICAN- 
DELLES—  Are  made  of  three-fifths  cold  cooked 
meat,  one-fifth  raw  meat,  one-fifth  bread 
crumbs  or  boiled  rice,  the  whole  minced,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  herbs  and 
lemon  juice,  bound  with  beaten  eggs,  made  up 
into  balls,  pats,  cutlet  shapes,  etc.,  fried  in 
dripping,  or  breaded  and  fried,  then  served 
with  a  sauce  or  garniture  appropriate  to  the 
meat  used. 

FRICANDEAU— Name  applied  to  the  whole  but- 
tock or  cushion  of  veal,  that  is  larded,  braised, 
and  served  in  broad  slices  with  a  sauce  or 
garniture. 

FRITTERS— Are  either  a  mixture  of  fruits,  veg- 
etables, meat  or  poultry  combined  with  flour 
and  eggs  to  form  a  batter;  or  the  article  en- 
closed within  a  batter,  then  fried  crisp,  or 
baked  as  for  eclairs,  etc. 

CANDIED  PEEL  FRITTERS— Candied  orange, 
lemon  and  citron  peel  chopped  fine  and  mixed 
into  a  stiff  batter  composed  of  i  pound  of  flour 
moistened  with  two-thirds  sweet  wine  and  one- 
third  brandy;  after  all  mixed,  the  whipped 
whites  of  ten  eggs  are  stirred  in,  the  mix- 
ture is  then  placed  in  a  forcing  bag  with 
large  tube,  and  forced  out  into  boiling  fat,  fried 
crisp  and  done  through,  taken  up,  drained, 
rolled  in  powdered  sugar;  served  with  wine 
sauce,  fruit  pur^e  or  marmalade.  Deviations 
may  be  made  by  using  the  imported  "fruits 
glaces"  such  as  angelica,  poires,  cerises,  etc. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


83 


FRUIT  FRITTERS— Blackberries,  raspberries, 
dewberries,  strawberries,  etc.  mixed  into  a  me- 


in  batter  and  fried;  served  with  orange  sauce 
made  from  the  syrup  they  were  blanched  in. 


dium  stiff  batter  without   breaking  the  fruit,    CONFITURE  FRITTERS — Also   called    "beig- 


dropped  by  spoonfuls  into  very  hot  fat,  fried, 
drained;  served  with  a  sauce  made  of  the  fruit 
used,  the  fritter  being  dusted  with  powdered 
sugar. 

SPANISH  PUFF  FRITTERS— Made  by  boiling 
together  7  ozs.  of  butter,  2  ozs.  of  sugar,  and 
one  pint  of  water;  when  boiling,  9  ozs.  of  sifted 
flour  is  thrown  in  all  ai  once,   and  stirred  till 


nets  aux  confitures."  Fruit  marmalade  spread 
between  two  thin  slices  of  plain  cake,  then 
dipped  in  batter  and  fried. 
PEACH  FRITTERS— Halves  of  peeled  fresh 
fruit  or  canned  ones  drained,  dipped  in  batter 
and  fried;  served  with  a  thick  syrup  sauce  into 
which  has  been  worked  some  peach  butter,  the 
fritters  dusted  with  sugar. 


well  cooked,  about  five  minutes,   then  removed   APRICOT  FRITTERS — Same  as  the  preceding 


from  the  fire  and  ten  eggs  beaten  in  one  at  a 
time,  each  egg  to  be  thoroughly  incorporated 
before  the  next  is  put  in;  with  the  last  egg  is 
added  a  tablespoonful  of  vanilla  extract; 
dropped  in  small  spoonfuls  in  medium  hot  fat 
they  will  expand  into  hollow  balls   about  the 


but  substituting  apricots  for  peaches;  an- 
other way  is  to  form  a  half  apricot  from  rice 
croquette  mixture,  and  putting  the  half  apricot 
with  it,  pinning  with  a  toothpick,  dipped  in 
batter  and  fried,  toothpick  then  removed; 
served  with  sauce, 


size  of  an  orange;    room  must  be  allowed  to  piNEAPPLE  FRITTERS— Slices  of  cored  can- 
allow  of  their  expansion  and  for  them  to  roll  ned  pineapple  drained,  dipped  in  batter  and 
over;  when  done,  drained;   served  dusted  with  fried;  served  with  a  wine  syrup  glace  sauce, 
powdered  sugar,  vanilla  or  wine  sauce  around.  cORN  FRITTERS-Cooked  corn  cut  from  the 

QUEEN  FRITTERS— Same  as   the  preceding,  po^,   or  canned    corn,    pounded,    mixed  with 

but  omitting  the  sugar  and  vanilla  in  the  mix-  q^^^^   gggg  ^nd  butter,    seasoned    with    salt, 

ture;  when  done,  they  may  be  split  in   the  side  dropped  by  spoonfuls  in  hot  fat,   fried;  served 

and  filled  with  pastry  cream,  either  as  a  vegetable  or  garnish. 

CUSTARD  FRITTERS— Boiling  milk  and  sugar  pARSNIP    FRITTERS— The  parsnips    boiled, 

thickened  stiff  with  cornstarch,    some   beaten  ^hen  mashed  and  mixed  with  flour,  eggs  and 


eggs  then  worked  in,  flavored  with  extract 
poured  into  shallow  pan;  when  cold,  cut  into, 
diamond  shapes,  breaded,  fried;  served  with 
custard  sauce. 

CHOCOLATE  FRITTERS— Same  as  the  pre- 
ceding, but  boiling  some  chocolate  with  the 
milk;  served  withvanilla  cream  sauce. 

APPLE  FRITTERS  —  Apples  peeled,  cored, 
leaving  the  stalk  on,  the  core  hole  filled  with 
stiff  fruit  marmalade;  dipped  into  a  stiff  batter, 
slowly  fried  till  done;  served  dusted  with 
powdered  sugar. 

APPLE  FRITTERS— Large  good  cooking  apples 
peeled  and  cored,  cut  in  slices,  dipped  in  bat- 
ter, fried;  served  with  fruits,  rum  or  wine  sauce. 

RICE  FRITTERS— Well  boiled  rice  drained 
and  pounded,  mixed  with  eggs,  sugar  and  a 
little  flour;  flavored  with  grated  lemon  rind, 
made  into  flat  round  cakes  with  a  depression  in 
the  centre,  fried;  served  coated  with  powdered 
sugar,  and  the  depression  filled  with  marma- 
lade or  jelly. 

GERMAN  FRITTERS— Very  light  roll  dough 
cut  out  in  thin -flats,  little  jam  placed  in  centre 
of  one,   covered  with  another  flat,  allowed  to 


butter,  seasoned  with  salt  and  white  pepper, 
(the  mixture  should  be  medium  soft)  dropped 
by  spoonfuls  in  hot  fat;  when  done,  served  as  a 
vegetable  or  garnish. 
FROGS— There  are  two  kinds  on  the  market,  the 
small  marsh  frog,  and  the  large  bull  frog;  the 
bull  is  the  most  convenient  for  use  and  trade, 
giving  the  guest  most  satisfaction,  and  the  cook 
least  trouble  in  preparation. 
FRIED  FROGS,  TARTAR  SAUCE— The  legs 
marinaded  for  an  hour  in  lemon  juice,  salt  and 
pepper,  wiped,  rolled  in  flour,  then  breaded 
and  fried;  served  with  tartar  sauce,  garnished 
with  lemon  slices  and  parsley. 
BROILED  FROG  LEGS— The  legs  marinaded 
for  an  hour  in  olive  oil,  lemon  juice,  salt  and 
pepper,  taken  up,  floured,  broiled  and  basted 
with  the  marinade  till  done;  served  with  MAitre 
D'Hotel  butter,  garnished  with  lemon  and  pars- 
ley. 
STEWED  FROG  LEGS  WITH  PEAS— Frog 
legs  blanched  for  a  few  minutes  in  salted  vine- 
gar water,  then  drained  and  put  into  a  rich 
V^lout^  sauce,  simmered  till  done;  served  with 
a  border  of  sauteed  green  peas, 
rise,  then  fried,  drained,  rolled  in  powdered  FRICASSEE  OF  FROG  LEGS-Frog  legs  lightly 
sugar  and  served;  also  called  "Bismarks."  sauteed  with  butter  and  minced  shallots,  taken 

ORANGE  FRITTERS  —  Quarters  of  skinned  up,  the  butter  then  lightly  browned,  flour  added 
oranges  with  the  seeds  removed  blanched  in  a  to  form  a  roux,  moistened  with  chicken  stock, 
thick  syrup,  taken  up  and  drained,  then  dipped       brought  to  the  boil,  skimmed,  seasoned  with 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


salt,  red  pepper  and  sherry  wine,  legs  put  back 
into  it  and  simmered  till  done. 
FROG  LEGS.  SOUTHERN  STYLE— Frog  legs 
saut^ed  with  butter  and  minced  shallots,  then 
taken  up;  to  the  butter  and  shallocs  is  now 
added  a  little  raw  lean  ham  cut  in  small  dice, 
together  with  a  chopped  green  pepper;  when 
ham  is  nearly  done,  add  two  quarts  of  chicken 
consomm^,  a  quart  can  each  of  okra  and  toma- 
toes, brought  to  the  boil,  a  cupful  of  well 
washed  rice  then  added;  when  rice  is  nearly 
done,  the  frog  legs  are  put  in  and  simmered 
till  tender.  It  should  be  a  thick  stew.  Served, 
the  legs  in  centre  of  dish  with  the  vegetables 
around  as  a  garnish. 

FROG  LEGS  SAUTE,  PROVENCALE— The 
legs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  sau- 
t^ed  with  butter,  taken  up  into  a  sautoir,  cov- 
ered with  Provenpale  sauce,  simmered  till 
tender;  served  garnished  with  small  stuffed 
onions  and  tomatoes. 

FROG  LEGS  SAUTfiS,  POULETTE  — The 
legs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  sau- 
t^ed  with  butter  and  minced  shallots,  taken  up 
into  a  sautoir,  covered  with  sauce  Poulette, 
simmered  till  tender;  served  with  the  sauce, 
garnished  with  flageolet  beans  and  fancy  crofl- 
tons. 

FROG  LEGS  SAUTfe,  BORDELAISE  — The 
legs  saut^ed  with  minced  ham,  garlic,  shal- 
lots, thyme  and  butter,  taken  up,  to  the  resi- 
due is  then  added  sauce  Espagnole  with  a 
glass  of  claret  wine;  this  is  then  reduced  to  a 
demi-glaze  and  strained  over  the  legs;  served 
garnished  with  fried  slices  of  beef  marrow. 

FROG  OMELET,  SOUTHERN  STYLE  — 
Shredded  frog  meat  left  over  from  either  of  the 
four  preceding  receipts,  mixed  into  a  sauce 
camposed  of  one-third  each  of  tomato,  Espag- 
nole and  Creole  sauce;  a  spoonful  enclosed 
within  a  savory  omelet;  served  with  more  of 
the  frog  meat  down    he  sides. 

GALANTINE — A  name  applied  to  fowl,  some 
game,  fish  and  meat  that  may  be  boned,  stuffed, 
boiled,  braised  or  roasted,  then  pressed  and  cut 
into  slices  for  service  when  cold,  either  plain 
or  filled  into  molds  with  aspic  jelly  and  decor- 
ated. 

GALANTINE  OF  TURKEY  OR  CHICKEN— 
Two  birds,  the  larger  one  to  be  singed,  the 
smaller  skinned,  the  birds'  skin  split  down  the 
back  from  the  head  to  tail,  the  carcass  re- 
moved without  further  breaking  the  skin;  the 
large  one  laid  out  flat,  skin  downwards,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  mixed 
herbs;  the  under  filiets  of  the  breast  to  be  filled 
into  the  space  which  the  breastbone  occupied, 
the  wing  and  Ipg  meat  drawn  inwards  and  the 
sinews  removed,  the  whole  then  spread  with  a 
force  or  sausage  meat;  two  strips  each  of  cooked 


tongue  and  fat  salt  pork  arranged  alternately 
down  the  centre,  also  some  slices  of  truffles  if 
at  hand;  the  meat  of  the  smaller  bird  then  laid 
over  the  stuffing,  the  white  meat  covering  the 
dark  of  the  other  bird,  so  that  when  cut,  light 
and  dark  meat  is  served  to  each  portion;  the 
skin  of  the  large  bird  is  then  drawn  together 
and  sewn  closely,  placed  into  a  cloth  which  is 
again  sewn  and  tied  at  the  ends  like  a  roly  poly 
pudding,  plunged  into  boiling  seasoned  white 
stock  and  simmered  till  done;  taken  up  and 
while  still  hot,  pressed  into  a  mold  with  screw 
pressure  or  weight  on  top;  when  set  and  cold, 
the  cloth  removed,  the  bird  wiped  with  a  hot 
cloth  to  remove  all  grease  and  stains,  it  is  then 
sliced  for  the  table.  If  the  birds  are  both 
young  and  juicy,  instead  of  being  boiled  they 
may  be  braised  or  roasted  (of  course  without 
being  tied  in  a  cloth),  when  done,  taken  up, 
pressed,  trimmed  and  glazed. 

GALANTINES  are  however  generally  served 
with  aspic  jelly,  and  the  nicest  way  is  to  take 
the  birds  when  pressed,  wipe  and  trim,  cut  in- 
to even  slices;  galantine  molds  lined  with  aspic 
jelly,  then  decorated  with  cooked  peas,  mac^- 
doines,  fancy  shapes  of  white  of  eggs,  beet,  car- 
rot and  truffles,  these  decorations  again  coa  ted 
with  aspic  to  keep  them  in  position,  the  slices 
of  bird  then  laid  into  the  mold  EDGES  DOWN- 
WARDS not  laid  flat;  limpid  aspic  run  between 
each  slice;  when  the  mold  is  full,  set,  turned 
out,  decorated  and  sent  to  table.  I  have  seen 
galantines  served  at  banquets  where  the  slices 
of  meat  have  been  laid  flat  in  the  mold,  with 
the  result  that  the  waiters  could  not  procure  a 
decent  slice  to  serve;  had  the  edges  been  placed 
downwards,  the  waiter  or  serving  man  would 
have  been  able  to  move  each  slice  with  the  jelly 
adhering  simply  by  the  aid  of  a  fork. 

GAME — Name  applied  in  a  culinary  sense  to 
birds  and  animals  fit  foi  table  use  that  are 
hunted  by  sportsmen,  the  animals  and  birds 
not  being  domesticated;  these  embrace  wood- 
cock, quail,  snipe,  partridge,  wild  ducks,  geese 
and  brant,  prairie  chickens,  grouse,  pheasant, 
reed  birds,  rail  sora,  ortolans,  rice  birds,  sage 
hens,  wheat  ears,  larks,  capercailzie,  plover, 
etc.,  squirrels,  hares,  venison,  moose,  caribou, 
black  bear,  elk,  antelope,  mountain  sheep  and 
goat;  recipes  will  be  found  under  each  respec- 
tive heading. 

GARDEN  PARTIES— Country  club  stewards 
and  caterers  are  often  called  upon  to  prepare 
for  and  superintend  garden  parties,  and  as  a 
rule  the  meal  is  served  out  of  doors,  under  a 
marquee.  When  the  steward  or  caterer  has 
several  through  the  summer  season,  invarably 
the  same  guests  are  to  be  found,  he  must  there- 
fore rack  his  brains  to  continually  change  the 
card.  Solid  food  is  NOT  REQUIRED.  The 
refreshments  should  be  tea  and  coffee,  various 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


kinds  of  cups,  delicate  sandwiches  of  minced 
and  creamed  meat  and  fish,  individual  cakes, 
rolled  bread  and  butter,  ices,  fruit;  strawberries 
and  cream  are  usually  served  from  large  silver 
bowls.  The  bufifet  should  be  well  supplied  with 
canapes,  bouch^es,  timbales,  darioles,  individ- 
ual galantines  made  in  fancy  gem  pans — all 
things  to  be  of  an  individual  form  as  far  as  pos- 
sible. Whatever  wines  are  used  should  be  of 
the  light  and  sparkling  variety,  never  anything 
heavy  and  heating. 

GARFISH — Name  of  a  fish  with  an  elongated 
mouth  resembling  in  body  both  mackerel  and 
eel;  they  are  prepared  and  served  in  all  the 
ways  applicable  to  eels. 

GARLIC — Name  of  a  podded  or  cloved  form  of 
onion  of  very  strong  taste  and  flavor,  always  to 
be  used  sparingly ;  it  enters  into  many  soups, 
sauces  and  ragouts;  in  the  recipes  requiring  it, 
the  word  clove,  signifies  one  of  the  sections. 

tSARNISHES — Name  given  to  mixture  of  small 
tasty  foods  in  sauce,  used  as  a  garnish  and 
appropriate  sauce  to  the  main  article  served. 
Unhappily  there  are  so  many  garnishes,  that 
the  average  cook  has  not  the  brain  to  retain  but 
a  limited  number,  and  not  one  cook  in  a  hun- 
dred could  sit  down  and  write  the  component 
parts  of  twenty  garnitures  right  off  the  reel.  It 
is  the  garnishes  that  stupefy  the  guests  and 
make  them  order  plain  roast  turkey;  that  cov- 
ers the  "bills  of  fare"  with  worse  than  mongrel 
French;  that  spoils  many  a  good  dish  because 
the  garnish  used  is  not  appropriate  to  the  food 
served;  that  makes  the  country  hotel  keeper  ask 
the  cook  what  he  wants  this  and  that  for;  that 
makes  the  guest  when  he  looks  at  the  bill  of 
fare  exclaim:  What  in  thunder  is  k  la  Montmor- 
ency! k  la  this  and  k  la  that.  The  following 
garnishes  are  the  most  principal  in  use,  are 
put  in  a  simple  way  to  memorize,  not  only  their 
ingredients;  but  that  most  important  point  that 
up  to  date  no  cook  book  has  ever  attempted  to 
show.  THE  DISHES  THAT  THE  GARN- 
ISHES ARE  APPROPRIATE  TO. 
ADMIRAL — Composed  of  shrimps,  boiled  cray- 
fish tails,  fried  tufts  of  parsley,  oysters  or 
mussels  blanched,  drained,  dipped  in  Villeroi 
sauce  then  breaded  and  fried;  appropriate  as  a 
garnish  to  WHOLE  fish,  the  parts  arranged  in 
small  groups  around  the  fish  with  Admiral 
sauce  served  separately. 

ALLEMANDE — For  braised  meat,  is  composed 
of  stewed  sauerkrout,  prunes  and  potato  cakes 
arranged  around  the  meat,  with  Poivrade  sauce 
poured  under  it. 

ALLEMANDE— For  boiled   leg   of  pork:   omit 
the  stewed  prunes  and  potato  cakes,  substitut- 
ing glazed  pieces  of  carrot,  turnip  and  small 
^  onions. 

f        ALLEMANDE— For  boiled  chicken:  the    garn- 
ish is  quenelles  of  potatoes  poached,  then  cov- 


ered with  fried  bread  crumbs,  arranged  around 
the  chicken  with  Allemande  sauce  poured  un- 
der. This  same  is  applied  to  most  fowl  and 
game  served  k  I'Allemande. 

ALLEMANDE — For  braised  fish  such  as  carp  or 
pike,  the  garnish  is  composed  of  small  fish 
quenelles,  button  mushrooms,  crayfish  tails, 
and  either  small  oysters  or  mussels,  arranged 
around  the  fish  with  Allemande  sauce  in  which 
has  been  worked  some  of  the  fish  braise  and 
anchovy  butter. 

ALLEMANDE — For  roast  or  braised  venison, 
the  meat  is  garnished  with  prunes  stewed  in 
red  wine,  potato  quenelles,  and  a  sauce  poured 
over  the  meat;  made  by  taking  equal  parts  of 
red  currant  jelly,  Burgundy  wine  and  Espag- 
nole  sauce,  boiling  them  together  with  the  rind 
and  juice  of  an  orange,  and  a  piece  of  stick 
cinnamon,  then  strain. 

ANDALOUSE— Small  stuffed  tomatoes  and  green 
peppers,  with  a  small  mold  of  dry  boiled  rice, 
arranged  alternately  around  a  dish  of  braised 
or  roast  meat  or  fowl,  with  Andalouse  sauce 
poured  under  the  meat. 

AURORE — Composed  of  small  fish  quenelles, 
button  mushrooms  and  blanched  oysters  or 
mussels,  the  whole  mixed  into  Aurora  sauce; 
appropriate  to  garnish  cutlets  of  fish,  such  as 
salmon  trout,  pike,  cod,  snapper,  halibut,  etc. 

ANGLAISE— For  boiled  beef  is  composed  of 
neatly  trimmed  plain  boiled  carrots  and  turnips, 
arranged  alternately  around  the  meat  with  suet 
dumplings;  piquante  sauce  served  separately. 

ANGLAISE— For  roast  beef  or  fillet,  is  small 
browned  potatoes  at  the  side  of  the  meat,  with 
scraped  horseradish  at  the  ends. 

ANGLAISE— For  calf's  head,  is  composed  of  a 
slice  each  of  boiled  bacon  and  glazed  tongue, 
and  served  either  with  parsley  or  devil  sauce. 

ANGLAISE— For  boiled  chicken,, is  composed  of 
tufts  of  boiled  cauliflower,  a  thin  slice  of  ham, 
and  Bechamel  sauce  poured  around. 

ANGLAISE — For  roast  goose,  is  garnished  with 
plain  sage  and  onion  slufiBng,  a  brown  gravy 
poured  over,  and  apple  sauce  served  separ- 
ately. 

ANGLAISE— For  boiled  leg  of  mutton,  is  garn- 
ished with  a  small  mold  of  mashed  white 
turnips,  alternated  with  a  trimmed  boiled  car- 
rot, and  served  with  caper  sauce. 

ANGLAISE— For  boiled  leg  of  salt  pork,  is  garn- 
ished with  trimmed  boiled  carrots  and  turnips, 
arranged  alternately  around  the  meat  with  a 
puree  of  split  peas. 

ANGLAISE — For  roast  pork,  is  garnished  with 
sage  and  onion  stufiBng  in  spoonfuls  alternately 
with  a  small  baked  apple;  brown  gravy  or 
apple  sauce  served  separately. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ANGLAISE — For  boiled  salmon,  is  garnished 
either  with  shrimp,  mussel  or  parsley  sauce. 

ANGLAISE — For  roast  turkey,  is  composed  of 
small  pork  sausages  fried,  a  slice  of  boiled  ham, 
bacon,  or  salt  pork,  stewed  chestnuts,  arranged 
alternately  around  the  meat  with  stuffiing  un- 
der it,  poivrade  sauce  poured  around. 

[THE  ENGLISH  WAY  of  serving  salmis  of 
game  is  to  simply  garnish  with  button  mush- 
rooms and  crofitons.  Their  roast  venison  is 
served  plain  with  Yorkshire  sauce]. 

AFRICAINE — Composed  of  stewed  okras,  arti- 
choke bottoms  and  pieces  of  egg  plant  mixed 
into  an  Espagnole  sauce;  appropriate  to  serve 
with  braised  veal  and  fowls. 

AU  JUS — Dishes  so  named  are  served  with  their 
natural  juice  or  gravy. 

BAYARD — Composed  of  circular  slices  of  red 
tongue,  truffles,  mushrooms  and  artichokes,  all 
boiled  down  with  a  little  Madeira  wine,  then 
mixed  into  Espagnole  sauce;  appropriate  to 
serve  with  sweetbreads,  lamb  fries  and  other 
white  meat  entries,  the  ends  of  the  dish  being 
garnished  with  croiltons  spread  with  foie-gras. 

BORDELAISE— Composed  of  slices  of  parboiled 
ox  marrow  and  Bordelaise  sauce,  or  a  sauce  or 
butter  composed  of  minced  shallots,  a  suspic- 
ion of  garlic,  minced  parsley  and  butter;  served 
with  broiled  steaks. 

BORDELAISE— For  matelote  of  eels,  is  com- 
posed of  very  small  onions  stewed,  button 
mushrooms  and  blanched  saut^ed  oysters,  the 
whole  sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley,  arranged 
alternately  round  the  matelote  with  fancy  croil- 
tons; no  sauce. 

BORDELAISE — For  roast  quails,  is  a  garnish 
of  slices  of  truffles  and  mushrooms  mixed  into 
a  Bordelaise  sauce. 

BOURGIGNOTTE  OR  BOURGIGNONNE— Is 
composed  of  very  small  onions  stewed,  then 
glazed,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  button  mush- 
rooms and  small  quenelles  of  forcemeat  all 
mixed  into  a  Bourgignotte  sauce;  appropriate 
to  serve  with  croflstade  of  quails,  cutlets  of 
sturgeon  sautes,  cutlets  of  mutton  sautes, 
braised  pigeon  cutlets,  salmis  of  small  birds, 
etc. 

BOUERGOISE — Consists  of  plain  root  vegeta- 
bles glazed;  appropriate  for  simple  dishes, 
such  as,  glazed  shortribs  of  beef,  braised  flank 
of  beef,  rolled  breast  of  veal,  etc. 

BOHEMIENNE— Composed  of  stoned  olives, 
button  mushrooms,  small  onions  and  balls  of 
potatoes;  appropriate  to  garnish  braised  and 
roast  meat,  under  which  is  poured  Poivrade 
sauce. 

BRETONNE  —  A  garnish  chiefly  used  with 
braised  leg  of  mutton;  composed  of  boiled  navy 
beans,  drained,  then  moistened  with  Bretonne 


sauce,  which  is  made  of  fried  onions  with  a 
suspicion  of  garlic,  moistened  with  brown 
sauce,  seasoned,  then  rubbed  through  a  tamis; 
small  olive  shapes  of  potatoes  fried  a  light 
brown  in  butter,  generally  accompanies  the 
beans  in  the  garniture. 

CARDINAL — Composed  of  small  quenelles  of 
lobster,  small  turned  truffles  and  button  mush- 
rooms, all  mixed  into  a  Cardinal  sauce;  appro- 
priate to  serve  with  stuffed  baked  pike,  carp, 
boiled  salmon,  turbot,  halibut,  fillets  of  sole, 
boudins  of  lobster,  paupiettes  of  sole,  fillets  of 
trout,  etc. 

CHAMBORD  —  Composed  of  fish  quenelles, 
truffles,  button  mushrooms,  crayfish,  small  fish 
roes,  moistened  with  Genevoise  sauce  for  the 
one  part.  Crayfish  tails,  turned  truffles,  small 
fish  roes  moistened  with  Villeroi  sauce  for  the 
second  part;  appropriate  to  garnish  WHOLE 
fish,  such  as  salmon  for  a  banquet  table,  the 
two  colored  garnishes  being  used  alternately, 
intersticed  with  whole  crayfish. 

CHIPOLATA — Composed  of  small  glazed  onions, 
glazed  balls  of  carrot  and  turnip,  chestnuts, 
cocks  combs  and  kernels  or  pieces  of  chicken, 
pieces  of  braised  bacon,  balls  of  veal  or  pork 
sausages  and  button  mushrooms,  the  whole 
moistened  with  Financi^re  sauce;  appropriate 
to  garnish  small  birds  on  toast,  braised  cutlets 
of  mutton,  roast  pheasants,  roast  suckling  pig, 
roast  turkey,  saut^  of  rabbit,  braised  prairie 
hen,  partridge  with  cabbage,  braised  capon, 
cutlets  of  turkey,  etc. 

CHIVRY — Composed  of  blanched  oysters  coated 
with  Villeroi  sauce,  then  breaded  and  fried; 
small  potato  croquettes,  small  bouch^es  of 
oysters,  and  crayfish  tails  dipped  in  Villeroi 
sauce;  appropriate  garnish  to  whole  fish. 

DUCHESSE — Composed  of  strips  of  red  tongue 
and  cocks  combs  mixed  in  V^lout^  sauce; 
appropriate  for  white  meat  entrees. 

DAUPHINE — Composed  of  Duchesse  potatoes, 
fried  tufts  of  parsley  and  Italian  sauce;  used  for 
fried  cutlets  of  chicken,  veal  cutlets,  etc. 

DURAND — Composed  of  trimmed  slices  of  truf- 
fles, chicken  livers,  mushrooms,  ham,  sweet- 
breads, bacon,  olives  stuffed  with  truffle  farce, 
cocks  combs,  gherkins,  and  hard  boiled  yolks 
of  eggs  cut  in  halves,  the  whole  moistened 
with  Espagnole  sauce  that  is  flavored  with 
thyme;  appropriate  garnish  to  fricandeaus, 
roast  or  braised  legs  of  mutton,  cushions  of 
veal,  etc. 

D'ARTOIS — A  fish  garnish  composed  of  strips  or 
circles  of  puff  paste  containing  a  salpiipon  of 
cooked  crayfish  tails,  oysters,  mushrooms  and 
white  fleshed  fish. 

DUMAS — A  garnish  to  be  used  with  game;  com- 
posed of  ham,  veal  kidneys,  cooked  and  cut  in- 
to small  sections,  then  moistened  with  Madeira 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


87 


sauce  containing  chopped  parsley,  tarragon  and 
lemon  juice. 

fiCARLETTE-Composed  of  pieces  of  red  tongue, 
corned  beef  and  mushrooms  moistened  with  a 
Villeroi  sauce;  appropriate  to  garnish  blanq- 
ettes,  suprfimes,  etc.  Also  consists  of  red 
tongue  in  tomato  sauce;  or  lobster  coral  in  a 
V^lout^  sauce;  these  latter  two  should  be  used 
when  the  meat  or  fish  is  red,  so  as  to  preserve 
the  color. 

FERMlfiRE— Composed  of  Parisienne  fried  po- 
tatoes, glazed  balls  of  carrot,  braised  small' 
lettuces  and  hearts'of  cabbages;  appropriate  to 
garnish  braised  or  boiled  beef,  pot  roasts,  a  la 
modes,  etc. 

FIN  ANCIERE— Composed  of  button  mushrooms, 
turned  trufiBes,  pieces  of  sweetbreads,  cocks 
combs  and  kernels,  small  quenelles  of  force- 
meat, the  whole  moistened  with  Financifere 
sauce;  appropriate  to  garnish  fillets  of  beef, 
poultry,  calf's  head,  sweetbreads,  pigeons,  sal- 
mis of  plovers,  braised  turtle  fins,  black  game, 
braised  saddle  of  lamb,  salmis  of  partridge  and 
pheasant,  fillets  of  rabbits,  necks  of  veal,  veal 
cutlets,  roast  loin  of  veal,  etc. 

FLAMANDE— Composed  of  small  pieces  of  bacon 
and  sausages,  plenty  of  braised  white  cabbage, 
turned  boiled  carrots  and  turnips,  glazed  onions; 
or  the  dish  served  with  Brussels  sprouts  in  half 
glaze,  or  with  Flemish  sauce.  Appropriate 
garnish  to  boiled  beef,  boiled  or  roast  ham, 
fillets  of  beef,  large  steaks,  etc, 

GODARD— Composed  of  turned  and  glazed  truf- 
fles, diced  sweetbreads,  godiveau  quenelles  and 
button  mushrooms  (cocks  combs  and  kernels, 
optional)  moistened  with  Madeira  sauce;  ap- 
propriate garnish  to  braised  sirloin  of  beef, 
larded  capons,  braised  saddle  of  lamb,  etc.,  also 
as  a  filling  for  timbales  of  macaroni  which  are 
subsequently  served  with  P^rigueux  sauce. 

GOURMET — Composed  of  neat-shaped  pieces 
of  ox  palate,  artichoke  bottoms,  turned  trufiles 
and  button  mushrooms,  moistened  with  Ma- 
deira sauce;  used  for  garnishing  larded  and 
braised  fresh  ox  tongue. 

GREQUE — Composed  of  trimmed  and  blanched 
okras  which  are  then  simmered  in  a  little  Ma- 
deira sauce  for  ten  minutes;  used  to  garnish 
veal  cutlets  sautes,  with  a  little  Bearnaise  sauce 
at  ends  of  dish,  also  as  a  garnish  to  stewed  veal. 

HUSSARD — Composed  of  small  circles  of  cooked 
red  tongue,  slices  of  mushrooms  and  small  go- 
diveau quenelles,  the  whole  moistened  with 
equal  parts  of  Madeira  sauce  and  tomato  pur^e; 
used  for  garnishing  braised  white  meat. 

JOURNEAUX— Composed  of  slices  of  saut^ed 
chicken  livers,  moistened  with  rich  Madeira 
sauce;  appropriate  garnish  to  roast  or  braised 
chicken,  and  as  a  filling  for  timbales,  patties, 
omelets,  etc. 


MACfeDOINE — Composed  of  fancy  shapes  of 
cooked  carrot,  turnip,  stringless  beans,  with 
green  peas,  moistened  with  Allemande,  Supreme 
or  Bechamel  sauces,  when  served  with  white 
meat  entries;  or  mixed  with  Espagnole  sauce 
for  dark  meat  entries.  Appropriate  garnish  to 
fillet  of  beef,  boiled  capon,  braised  ducks,  glazed 
fillets  of  ducklings,  braised  saddle  of  lamb, 
breaded  mutton  cutlets,  glazed  ox  tongue,  fri- 
candeau  of  veal,  roast  fillet  of  veal,  epigramme 
of  lamb,  fillets  of  capon,  braised  quails,  larded 
sweetbreads,  etc. 

MARINlfiRE — Composed  of  blanched  oysters, 
crayfish  tails,  turned  truffles  and  small  fish 
quenelles;  used  to  garnish  boiled  fish. 

MATELOTE— Composed  of  pieces  of  fish  roe, 
very  small  onions  saut^ed  in  butter  then  drained, 
pieces  of  truffle,  blanched  mussels  or  small 
oysters  and  small  fish  quenelles,  the  whole 
moistened  with  a  Matelote  sauce;  appropriate 
garnish  to  crimped  codfish,  eels,  boiled  salmon 
steaks,  fillets  of  soles,  baked  stuffed  bluefish, 
boiled  carp,  baked  codfish,  fried  fillets  of  pike, 
boiled  red  snapper,  braised  trout,  etc, 

MILANAISE — Composed  of  inch  pieces  of  boiled 
macaroni  and  red  tongue,  slices  of  mushrooms, 
a  little  boiled  rice,  chopped  truffle  peelings 
and  Parmesan  cheese,  the  whole  moistened 
with  equal  parts  of  Madeira  sauce  and  tomato 
pur^e  (some  raviolis  optional);  appropriate 
garnish  to  braised  fillet  of  beef,  boiled  capon, 
boiled  chicken,  braised  saddle  of  lamb,  breaded 
mutton  cutlets,  fillets  of  chicken,  stuffed  breast 
of  lamb,  braised  breast  of  veal,  etc. 

NAPOLITAINE— Composed  of  inch  pieces  of 
boiled  macaroni  dressed  with  Parmesan  cheese; 
sultana  raisins  stewed  in  wine,  and  glazed  ravi- 
olis, arranged  alternately  around  the  entree 
with  Napolitaine  sauce  poured  under.  Appro- 
propriate  garnish  to  roast  fillet  of  beef,  suckling 
pig,  braised  capon,  larded  and  glazed  sweet- 
breads. 

NIVERNAISE— Composed  of  Julienne  vegetables 
saut^ed  in  clarified  butter  with  a  little  sugar, 
then  drained,  moistened  with  consomm^,  and 
when  nearly  done,  rapidly  boiled  down  to  glaze; 
used  in  this  way  or  mixed  into  a  Hollandaise 
sauce.  Appropriate  garnish  to  breaded  chicken 
cutlets,  braised  beef  and  mutton,  braised  ducks, 
haricot  of  mutton,  mutton  cutlets,  etc. 

PAYSANNE— Composed  of  slices  of  stuffed  and 
braised  cucumber,  slices  of  braised  carrot  and 
small  sausages,  the  whole  then  moistened  with 
strained  braise;  appropriate  garnish  to  black 
game,  pheasant,  haricot  of  mutton,  haricot  of 
ox  tails,  etc. 

PfiRIGUEUX— Composed  of  scallops  of  fat  bird 
livers  and  truffles  braised  in  a  mirepoix,  to  which 
is  then  added  some  quenelles  of  forcemeat,  cocks 
combs  and  kernels  with  button  mushrooms,  the 


88 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


whole  then  moistened  with  P^rigueux  sauce, 
boiled  up  for  a  minute  or  two.  Appropriate 
garnish  to  roast  black  game,  large  boudins  of 
poultry,  salmis  of  partridges,  roast  pheasant, 
roast  stuffed  turkey,  roast  stuffed  suckling  pig, 
broiled  stuffed  boneless  pigs  feet,  braised  quails 
on  fried  croflstades,  fried  quarters  of  young  rab- 
bit, veal  chops  sautes  (these  are  first  trimmed, 
seasoned,  dipped  in  whipped  egg  whites,  rolled 
in  minced  truffles,  smoothed  with  a  knife, 
saut^ed  slowly  with  butter  a  delicate  brown 
about  twenty  minutes). 

PARISIAN — Composed  of  equal  quantities  of 
turned  truffles.button  mushrooms  and  cocks  ker- 
nels, moistened  with  Parisian  sauce.  Appropri- 
ate garnish  to  roast  larded  fillets  of  beef,  fillets  of 
chicken  sautes,  fillets  of  {Cartridges  breaded  and 
saut^ed,  saut^ed  fillets  of  quails  on  toast,  larded 
and  braised  sweetbreads.  (For  a  club  dish,  the 
sweetbreads  should  be  served  three  to  the  por- 
tion, one  larded  with  strips  of  truffles,  one  with 
parsley  stalks,  the  third  with  strips  of  red 
tongue,  served  on  toast  with  the  garnish  around.) 
Fillets  of  soles  stuffed  and  saut^ed,  (this  is  done 
by  filleting  the  fish,  spreading  them  with  force- 
meat, arranged  on  a  baking  sheet,  moistened 
with  a  little  white  wine,  covered  with  buttered 
paper,  slowly  baked  till  the  fish  is  set,  then 
allowed  to  cool,  spread  with  a  cold  Allemande 
sauce,  breaded,  then  gently  saut^ed  a  fine  color 
with  butter;  served  with  the  garnish.) 

PROVENCALE— Composed  of  small  stuffed  and 
baked  tomatoes,  small  onions  with  the  centers 
removed  after  being  steamed,  the  whole  then 
filled  with  forcemeat  in  which  is  worked  a  lit- 
tle cheese  and  a  flavor  of  garlic,  they  are  then 
saut^ed;  the  entree  when  being  served  is  sur- 
rounded alternately  with  the  onions  and  toma- 
toes, also  a  sauce  Provenpale  poured  under  the 
meat;  appropriate  garnish  to  braised  fillet  of 
beef,  fried  cutlets  of  chicken,  braised  ducks, 
leg  of  mutton  boned,  stuffed  and  braised, 
braised  mutton  cutlets,  salmis  of  partridges, 
roast  stuffed  sucking  pig,  fried  calf's  brains  in 
batter,  salmis  of  all  wild  fowls. 

REGENCY — composed  of  small  fish  quenelles, 
cocks  combs,  button  mushrooms,  crayfish  tails, 
truffles,  and  a  little  lobster  coral,  the  whole 
moistened  with  some  Regency  sauce;  appropri. 
ate  garnish  to  WHOLE  boiled  salmon,  trout, 
pike,  halibut,  turbot  and  red  snapper. 

ROUENNAISE— Composed  of  turnips  turned  to 
an  even  small  size,  sauteed  in  butter  with  a  lit- 
tle sugar  till  of  a  fine  golden  color,  then  mois- 
tened with  some  sauce  Espagnole  and  simmered 
in  it  till  tender;  appropriate  garnish  to  roast 
ducks,  roast  or  braised  pheasant,  braised  leg  of 
mutton,  capercailzie  and  black  game. 

ROUENNAISE— Is  also  the  name  of  a  useful 
fish  garnish  and  is  composed  for  this  use  with 
blanched    oysters    and   shrimps    with    button 


mushrooms,  each  in  equal  quantities,  also  some 
lobster  quenelles,  the  liquor  from  the  blanched 
oysters  and  mushrooms  reduced  with  a  little 
white  wine,  then  added  to  a  V^lout^  sauce,  fin- 
ished with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream, 
lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley,  then  is  added 
the  ragodt. 

RICHELIEU — Composed  of  small  poultry  quen- 
elles which  have  some  brown  pur^e  of  onions 
in  their  composition,  slices  of  braised  poultry 
livers  and  cocks  combs,   the  whole  moistened 

•  with  a  brown  onion  puree  sauce;  appropriate 
garnish  to  entries  of  game  and  poultry  that  are 
breaded  and  subsequently  fried  or  broiled,  also 
boneless  pigs  feet  breaded,  braised  carbonade 
of  mutton,  crepinettes  of  partridge,  etc. 

ROYALE — Composed  of  a  ragoflt  of  button  mush- 
rooms, cocks  combs  and  kernels,  small  quenelles 
of  chicken  and  turned  truffles,  the  ragout  to  be 
moistened  with  the  glazy  strained  braise  from 
the  meat.  Appropriate  garnish  to  braised  loin 
of  veal,  breast  of  veal  stuffed  and  braised, 
braised  saddle  of  lamb,  braised  capon,  braised 
rabbit,  larded  and  braised  fillets  of  chicken. 

ROYALE- -Garnish  when  to  be  used  for  game, 
such  as  braised  venison,  hare,  pheasant,  part- 
ridge, etc.,  is  composed  of  pieces  of  braised 
pork  sausages,  braised  bacon,  button  mush- 
rooms and  green  gherkins,  the  whole  moistened 
with  a  Poivrade  sauce. 

ROYALE — This  name  is  often  applied  to  fish, 
but  when  so  applied  it  has  no  garnish,  but  is 
meant  to  convey  the  form  and  style  of  cooking, 
which  is  the  fish  either  filleted  and  fried,  or 
boned,  stuffed  and  stewed,  then  served  with  a 
white  Ravigote  sauce,  sometimes  garnished  with 
fish  quenelles. 

ROYALE — This  name  when  applied  to  soups  and 
consommes,  has  a  garnish  or  filling  composed 
of  fancy  shapes  or  small  timbales  of  custard; 
made  with  consomme  and  egg  yolks,  or  court- 
bouillon  and  egg  yolks,  with  some  lobster  roe, 
minced  mushrooms,  minced  truffles,  parsley, 
shallots,  a  green  purde,  etc.,  etc.,  mixed  in  ac- 
cording to  fancy,  the  custard  steamed  slowly, 
the  eggs  simply  mixed  without  much  beating. 

SOUBISE — Composed  of  small  potato  croquettes 
and  a  purde  soubise;  made  by  sautdeing  with 
butter  some  blanched  onions,  seasoning  with 
nutmeg,  red  pepper  and  a  pinch  of  sugar;  when 
of  a  light  color,  moistened  with  white  sauce; 
when  done,  the  whole  is  rubbed  through  a 
tarois  in  conjunction  with  a  boiled  floury  potato 
which  keeps  the  pur^e  firm.  Appropriate  gar- 
nish to  braised  black  game,  boudins  of  chicken, 
braised  leg  of  mutton,  larded  neck  of  mutton, 
braised  mutton  cutlets,  braised  partridges, 
larded  and  braised  pheasants,  larded  and 
braised  pork  cutlets,  scallops  of  sweetbreads 
sauced,  breaded  ana  fried. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


STANLEY— Garniture  often  served  with  steaks, 
composed  of  quartered  fried  bananas,  small 
timbales  of  horseradish  mixed  with  rice,  minced 
shallots,  cream  and  egg  yolks;  served  with 
sauce  Albert  over  or  around  the  steaks. 

SUPREME— Composed  of  a  pur^e  of  white 
chicken  meat  and  rice  that  has  been  boiled  in 
chicken  stock,  the  pur^e  being  mixed  wiih  a  lit- 
tle rich  cream;  arranged  on  the  serving  dish  as  a 
border,  decorated  wiih  fancy  shapes  of  truflfle, 
the  meat  in  the  centre  being  covered  with  a 
Supreme  sauce,  such  as,  breasts  of  chicken, 
sweetbreads,  capon,  quails  and  partridges. 

TOULOUSE — Composed  of  slices  of  geese  livers 
saut^ed  and  glazed,  button  mushrooms  blanched 
with  lemon  juice  and  butter,  scallops  of  sweet- 
breads, turned  truffles,  cocks  combs  and  kernels 
masked  with  Toulouse  or  Supreme  sauce.  Ap- 
propriate garnish  to  larded  and  saut^ed  fillets 
of  chicken,  fricandeau  of  veal,  sweetbreads, 
capon,  larded  and  saut^ed  ribs  of  veal. 

TORTU — Composed  of  olive  shaped  pieces  of 
truffle  and  green  gherkins,  stoned  small  olives, 
button  mushrooms,  scallops  of  blanched  brains 
or  sweetbreads,  the  whole  moistened  with  a  rich 
Madeira  sauce;  used  to  garnish  calf's  head, 
larded  and  braised  turtle,  stewed  turtle  fins. 

GHERKINS — A  small  prickly  cucumberused  for 
pickling;  to  pickle  them  they  are  first  washed 
and  wiped,  then  placed  in  jars  and  covered  with 
a  boiling  brine  strong  enough  to  float  a  potato 
the  size  of  an  egg;  allowed  to  steep  for  24  hours, 
then  taken  out,  wiped,  placed  in  clean  jars  and 
covered  with  hot  vinegar  spiced  with  an  onion, 
whole  cloves,  mustard  seed,  bay  leaves  and 
mace;  ready  for  use  in  two  weeks. 

GIBLETS— Are  composed  of  the  heart,  liver, 
gizzard  and  neck  of  poultry,  and  as  each  take  a 
different  time  to  cook,  they  should  be  cooked  in 
groups  of  each  and  afterwards  amalgamated; 
all  require  blanching  to  remove  the  blood. 

GIBLET  SAUCE— Blanched  and  saut^ed  hearts, 
livers  and  gizzards,  cut  very  small,  then  mixed 
into  a  thickened  gravy  from  the  roasted  birds 
to  be  served  with. 

GIBLET  PIE— Geese  giblets  blanched,  stewed 
in  stock  till  tender  with  some  sherry  wine, 
carrot  onion  and  parsley;  when  done,  the 
vegetables  removed,  sauce  made  from  the 
stock  and  seasoned  with  minced  shallots,  mush- 
rooms, chopped  parsley,  red  pepper,  salt  and  a 
little  sweet  basil;  the  giblets  then  arranged  in 
the  pie  dish  together  with  some  small  pieces  of 
tender  saut^ed  beef,  the  sauce  poured  over  all, 
covered  with  a  short  paste,  egg  washed  and 
baked. 

STEWED  GIBLETS  WITH  GREEN  PEAS— 
Poultry  giblets  prepared  as  in  the  preceding, 
but  instead  of  mixing  with  beef  and  placing  in 


pie  dish,  served  as  they  are  within  a  border  of 
green  peas. 

RAGOUT  OF  GIBLETS  WITH  POTATO 
CROQUETTES— The  giblets  blanched,  then 
saut^ed  with  bacon,  finished  by  stewing  till 
tender  in  a  brown  sauce  with  balls  of  carrot  and 
small  onions,  adding  at  the  last  some  button 
mushrooms,  season  with  sherry  wine;  served 
within  a  border  of  small  potato  croquettes. 

GIBLET  SOUP— The  necks  and  second  wing 
joints  cut  into  inch  pieces,  the  gizzards  into 
thin  slices,  saut^  them,  boil  the  livers  with  some 
minced  onions,  split  the  blanched  hearts  and 
saut^  them,  mix  all  together  and  moisten  with 
roast  chicken  gravy,  let  simmer  till  tender; 
meanwhile  prepare  a  soup  to  the  consistency  of 
thin  cream  made  from  veal  or  chicken  stock 
that  has  been  flavored  with  celery,  carrots,  tur- 
nips and  onions  in  equal  proportions,  bayleaf, 
thyme,  basil,  savory  and  mace;  when  ready, 
strain  into  the  soup  tureen,  add  the  giblets  in 
sauce,  finish  with  sherry  wine  and  serve. 

GIBLET  SOUP  WITH  RICE— The  giblets  pre- 
pared and  sauced  as  in  the  preceding,  the 
soup  made  of  equal  parts  of  Espagnole,  tomato 
and  V^loute  sauces,  thin  to  consistency  with 
veal  or  chicken  broth,  brought  to  the  boil, 
skimmed,  rice  added  and  simmered  till  tender, 
then  poured  to  the  giblets,  finish  with  Madeira 
wine. 

CLEAR  GIBLET  SOUP— Blanched  giblets  cut 
into  neat  size,  simmered  in  white  broth  till 
tender,  added  to  a  chicken  consomme  together 
with  some  Julienne  vegetables. 

GLAZE — Or  reduced  meat  juice,  used  to  glaze 
or  varnish  cold  meat,  such  as,  boned  roast 
fowls,  tongues,  hams,  game  birds,  boars  head, 
etc.,  to  enrich  soups  and  sauces;  made  by  rap- 
idly boiling  down  clarified  stock,  consomme  or 
very  clear  broths;  these  should  have  had  veal 
and  beef  bones,  roast  game  and  poultry  car- 
casses boiled  in  them  so  as  to  give  the  glaze  a 
rich  flavor. 

GODIVEAU — Name  used  for  veal  forcemeat, 
made  from  2  lbs.  of  lean  veal,  2  lbs.  of  beef  suet, 
I  lb.  of  cooked  veal  udder,  the  whole  pounded 
till  it  is  creamy,  seasoned  with  red  pepper, 
salt,  nutmeg,  8  eggs  and  half  a  pound  of  fresh 
white  grated  bread  crumbs,  when  all  smooth, 
it  is  rubbed  through  a  tamis,  and  placed  away 
for  use.  It  is  valuable  in  making  forcemeat 
balls,  as  a  lining  for  meat  pies,  etc.,  quenelles. 

GOOSE — One  of  the  domestic  fowls  much  appre- 
ciated by  hotel  patrons  if  young.  Stewards  can 
tell  this  by  the  upper  bill  test,  if  the  upper  bill 
will  bend  or  cave  in  the  middle  it  is  young,  the 
firmer  it  is,  the  older  the  bird;  it  is  not  a  very 
profitable  bird  to  the  proprietor  unless  purch- 
ased very  low  in  price,  because  "when  from  a 
goose  you've  taken  legs  and  breast,  wipe  lips, 
thank  God,  and  give  the  poor  the  rest." 


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THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Spring  or  green  geese  about  three  months 
old  are  never  stuffed  for  roasting;  the  best 
flavored  geese  are  six  to  nine  months  old,  and 
best  from  September  to  Christmas. 

BOILED  GOOSE  WITH  PICKLED  PORK— 
The  bird  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  plunged 
into  boiling  salted  water  with  an  onion,  sim- 
mered till  tender;  served  inportions  with  a  slice 
of  boiled  ham  or  leg  of  salt  pork,  accompanied 
with  celery  sauce. 

ROAST  GOOSE  STUFFED  WITH  GODI- 
VEAU — Young  birds  singed,  washed,  drawn, 
filled  with  godiveau,  trussed,  roasted;  served 
with  giblet  sauce,  accompanied  with  a  garnish 
of  sauteed  green  peas  at  one  end  of  dish,  and 
a  mound  of  mashed  potatoes  at  the  other. 

BRAISED  GOOSE  WITH  SAUSAGES— The 
bird  prepared,  stuffed  with  pork  sausage  meat 
flavored  with  sage,  braised  with  bacon  and  veg- 
etables; served  with  a  garnish  of  Parisienne 
potatoes,  broiled  sausages,  and  gravy 
from  the  strained  and  skimmed  braise. 

ROAST  GOOSE,  APPLE  SAUCE— The  bird 
prepared  and  stuffed  with  a  mixture  of  dry 
bread  crumbs  moistened  with  chopped  green 
apples,  minced  onion  boiled  with  a  little  water 
and  butter;  seasoned  with  sage,  salt  and  pepper, 
trussed,  roasted;  served  with  dressing  under 
the  meat,  apple  sauce  served  separately. 

ROAST   GOOSE   STUFFED  WITH  CHEST- 


served  with  a  brown  sauce  made  in  the  sauce- 
pan it  was  cooked  in,  and  garnished  with  col- 
umns of  glazed  turnips. 

BRAISED  GOOSE  WITH  VEGETABLES— 
Prepare,  truss  and  braise  the  birds  with  bacon, 
herbs  and  vegetables;  served  with  brown  gravy, 
and  garnished  with  even  sized  pieces  of  car- 
rot and  turnip  glazed,  intersected  with  Brussels 
sprouts. 

STUFFED  GOOSE  WITH  GLAZED  APPLES 
— The  birds  prepared  and  filled  with  mashed 
potatoes  mixed  with  minced  and  sauteed  onions, 
trussed,  roasted;  served  with  brown  gravy, 
garnished  with  small  apples  baked  whole  and 
glazy. 

ROAST  GREEN  GOOSE,  GOOSEBERRY 
SAUCE  —  The  bird  singed,  drawn,  washed, 
trussed,  with  the  inside  seasoned  well  with 
salt,  pepper  and  powdered  sage,  roasted  and 
basted;  served  with  gooseberry  sauce, 
made  GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE  —  Green  gooseberries 
with  a  little  sugar  and  just  enough  water  to 
keep  them  from  burning,  in  a  saucepan,  lid 
placed  on,  simmered  till  done,  then  rubbed 
through  a  sieve  like  cranberries;  when  passed 
through  a  little  butter  is  added, 

GORGONZOLA — Name  of  a  prime  cheese  made 
in  the  North  of  Italy,  somewhat  resembling  the 
English  Stilton;  it  is  of  yellow  color  with  rich 
green  veins,  firm  and  creamy. 


NUTS— The  birds  prepared  and  stuffed  with  a    GRAHAM   FLOUR— Name  given    to  unbolted 


mixture  made  of  two-thirds  chestnut  pur^e 
mixed  with  one-third  godiveau,  trussed,  roasted; 
served  in  portions:  garnished  with  roasted  and 
peeled  chestnuts,  brown  gravy  made  in  the 
roasting  pan  poured  under  the  meat. 


flour  by  Sylvester  Graham,  who  claims  for  it 
more  nutritive  properties,  but  it  has,  however, 
been  proven  to  be  less  easy  of  digestion;  it  is 
made  into  bread,  pancakes,  wafiBes,  muffins, 
mush  and  crackers. 


ROAST  GOOSE  WITH  OYSTER  STUFFING   GRAPES,  FROSTED— Bunches  of  grapes  dipped 


— The  birds  prepared  and  filled  with  a  stuffing 
made  of  a  quart  each  of  oysters,  bread  crumbs, 
and  rolled  oyster  crackers,  one-half  a  pound  of 
soft  butter,  four  eggs,  salt  and  pepper,  roasted; 
served  with  a  brown  oyster  or  brown  celery 
sauce. 

GOOSE  WITH  KRAUT.  GERMAN  STYLE— 
The  goose  prepared  and  trussed,  arranged  in  a 
deep  sautoir  with  well  washed  and  drained 
sauerkraut,  bacon  and  small  bologna  sausage, 
an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  moistened  with  a 
little  broth  and  some  fat  from  the  top  of  stock, 
fetched  to  the  boil,  then  simmered  till  done; 
served  in  portions  with  a  garnish  of  kraut,  bacon 
and  sausage. 

STUFFED  GOOSE  WITH  GLAZED  TUR- 
NIPS—The  bird  prepared  and  stuffed  with 
grated  bread  seasoned  with  sage  and  thyme 
leaves,  parboiled  minced  onions,  salt  and  pep- 
per, placed  in  a  sautoir  with  an  onion  stuck 
with  cloves,  celery,  parsley,  little  sherry  wine 
and  butter,  lid  placed  on,  then  put  into  a  hot 
oven,   baked  and  basted  till  done  and   glazy; 


into  whites  of  eggs  whipped  into  a  froth,  then 
into  powdered  sugar,  surplus  sugar  then  shaken 
off,  hung  till  set  and  dry,  then  served. 
GRAPE  JAM — Pulp  the  grapes,  keeping  the  pulp 
and  skins  separate,  pour  the  pulp  into  a  porce- 
lain lined  kettle  and  bring  it  to  boiling  point, 
then  press  through  a  colander,  add  the  skins 
and  measure;  to  every  quart  allow  a  pound  of 
sugar,  mix,  boil  rapidly  for  20  minutes,  stirring 
occasionally,  pour  into  tumblers  or  jars,  seal. 
If  green  grapes  allow  one-half  pound  more 
sugar  to  the  quart. 

GRAPE  JELLY— Use  freshly  gathered  ripe  Con- 
cord, Clinton  or  Isabella  grapes,  put  them  into 
stone  crocks,  place  the  crocks  in  the  bain-marie 
of  cold  water,  cover  the  tops  and  heat  slowly 
till  grapes  are  soft;  now  put  a  small  quantity  at 
a  time  into  a  jelly  bag  and  squeeze  out  the  juice; 
measure  the  juice  and  to  each  quart  allow  2 
lbs.  of  granulated  sugar.  Turn  the  juice  into  a 
porcelain  lined  kettle  over  a  brisk  fire,  place 
the  sugar  in  the  oven  to  heat,  boil  the  juice 
rapidly  for  20  minutes;  then  quickly  add  the 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


91 


sugar,  atirring  till  it  is  dissolved;  dip  the  glasses 
into  hot  water,  watch  the  liquid,  and  as  soon  as 
it  comes  to  the  boil,  remove  from  the  fire  and 
fill  the  glasses. 

GREEN  GRAPE  JELLY— Fox  grapes  are  the 
best;  put  the  stemmed  grapes  into  a  porcelain 
lined  kettle,  barely  cover  them  with  cold  water, 
cover  the  kettle,  and  boil  slowly  till  the  grapes 
are  very  tender,  then  drain  them  through  a 
flannel  jelly  bag;  to  every  quart  of  the  juice  al- 
low 2  lbs.  of  granulated  sugar,  put  the  juice  in- 
to porcelain  lined  kettle,  bring  to  the  boil,  then 
add  the  sugar,  and  boil  rapidly  till  it  jellies, 
about  20  minutes,  skimming  off  the  scum  as  it 
rises;  as  soon  as  it  jellies,  dip  the  glasses  into 
boiling  water  and  fill  with  the  boiling  liquid, 
stand  aside  till  cold  and  firm,  then  seal  the 
tops. 

GRAPE  FRUIT— Also  called  "shaddock"  and 
"forbidden  fruit"  and  the  largest  ones  "pompol- 
eons",  a  fruit  of  the  orange  species,  plentifully 
grown  in  the  West  Indies  and  Florida,  are  of 
an  agreeable  acii  grape  flavor;  served  cut  in 
halves  across,  with  the  sections  loosened  and 
the  seeds  removed;  eaten  with  powdered  sugar, 
a  little  sherry  wine  being  a  valuable  addition. 

GRAYLING — A  prime  game  fish  of  fine  flavor 
weighing  from  i  to  5  lbs, ;  cocked  and  served  in 
all  the  ways  applicable  to  brook  trout. 

GREENGAGE— Called  by  the  French  "Reine 
Claude"  a  species  of  plum  that  when  ripe  re- 
mains green;  used  as  a  table  fruit,  in  compotes, 
pies,  jellies,  ices,  and  as  a  sweet  entree  with 
rice. 

GRENADINS — Name  applied  to  the  fricandeau 
of  veal  cut  in  half  inch  thick  slices,  then 
stamped  circular  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  these 
larded  with  seasoned  strips  of  ham  or  bacon, 
arranged  in  a  sautoir,  moistened  with  a  light 
colored  strong  consomme,  reduced  to  a  half 
glaze  and  the  larding  is  cooked;  served  overlap- 
ping each  other  with  a  garnish  of  green  peas  or 
glazed  root  vegetables  in  forms,  or  with  gumbo 
and  egg  plant,  or  a  chipolata  garnish,  or  with 
small  stuffed  tomatoes  and  tomato  sauce,  or 
with  a  Financifere  garnish. 

GRIDDLE  CAKES— For  recipes,  see  heading  of 
"batter." 

G  R  O  U  S  E — Under  this  heading  comes  the 
"spriice",  "ruffled",  pintail",  moor  fowl",  "cap- 
ercailzie", prairie  chicken",   "ptarmigan",   etc. 

STUFFED  GROUSE,  MUSHROOM  SAUCE— 
The  bird  singed,  drawn  and  washed,  filled  with 
a  stuffing  made  from  the  liver,  minced  onions 
and  mushrooms,  breadcrumbs,  butter,  salt  and 
pepper,  strips  of  bacon  tied  over  the  breast, 
roasted;  served  with  mushroom  sauce  flavored 
with  sherry  wine. 

GLAZED  GROUSE.  SAUCE  TRIANON— The 
birds  trussed  and  roasted  plain,  taken  up, 
quartered,  skin  removed,  dipped  into  a  game 


glaze;  served  on  a  fancy  crodton  with  sauce 
Trianon  poured  around. 

ROAST  GROUSE,  SCOTCH  STYLE  — The 
birds  trussed  and  roasted  plain,  taken  up,  cut 
in  quarters,  served  on  toast  with  Bigarade 
sauce  poured  over,  and  garnished  with  slices  of 
oranges. 

SALMIS  OF  GROUSE— The  birds  trussed  and 
roasted  plain,  taken  up  and  cut  into  quarters, 
placed  in  a  sautoir,  moistened  with  game  sauce, 
fetched  to  the  simmer,  flavored  with  sherry 
wine;  served  with  sauce  over,  garnished  with 
fancy  croiltons,  the  top  of  the  bird  sprinkled 
with  grated  orange  r  nd  and  minced  truffles. 

ROAST  GROUSE,  HUNTERS  STYLE— The 
bird  trussed  and  roasted  plain,  taken  up  and 
cut  into  quarters;  served  on  toast  with  sauce 
poured  over,  made  of  2  parts  of  Espagnole  and 
I  part  tomato  sauces,  seasoned  with  minced 
fried  shallots,  lemon  juice,  minced  mushroom) 
and  chopped  parsley. 

STEWED  GROUSE  WITH  GREEN  PEAS— 
Stuff  and  truss  young  birds,  roll  them  in  butter, 
quickly  brown  them  in  a  very  hot  oven,  take 
out  and  place  in  a  deep  sautoir,  moisten  with 
game  sauce,  put  on  the  sautoir  lid,  lei  stew 
slowly  till  tender,  take  up  and  cut  into  portions, 
keeping  them  hot  in  a  little  sauce,  the  sauce 
they  were  stewed  in  then  strained  and  skimmed, 
seasoned  with  sherry  wine;  served  poured  over 
the  bird,  garnished  with  green  peas  saut^e. 

BRAISED  GROUSE  WITH  GLAZED  CAR- 
ROTS— Truss  the  birds,  arrange  in  a  braziere 
with  slices  of  bacon,  celery,  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  bay  leaves,  slices  of  carrot  and  turnip, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  and  parsley,  moisten 
with  game  gravy,  slices  of  bacon  placed  on  the 
birds  and  on  the  bacon  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  lid  then  put  on,  the  birds  braised  till 
done  and  glazy,  taken  up,  cut  into  portions,  the 
braise  strained  and  skimmed,  then  mixed  with 
a  rich  brown  sauce  flavored  with  port  wine; 
served  with  the  sauce  poured  over  and  gar- 
nished with  balls  of  saut6ed  and  glazed  carrots. 

ROAST  GROUSE,  BREAD  SAUCE  —  The 
breasts  of  the  bird  larded  with  seasoned  strips 
of  fat  pork,  trussed,  seajoned  with  salt  and 
pepper;  rolled  in  melted  butter,  then  in  flour, 
roasted  and  basted  till  done;  served  with  bread 
sauce  at  sides. 

STUFFED  FILLETS  OF  GROUSE  WITH 
QUENELLE  S— Young  birds  trussed  and 
roasted  plain,  taken  up  and  filleted,  the  fillets 
spread  with  game  forcemeat,  arranged  on  a 
baking  sheet,  moistened  and  heated  with  game 
sauce;  when  to  be  served,  dipped  in  a  game 
glaze;  served  on  a  fancy  croflton  with  game 
sauce  and  garnished  with  small  game  quenelles. 

BROILED  GROUSE  WITH  BACON— Young 
birds  singed,  split  down  the  back,  the  back  and 


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THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


breastbone  removed,  thigh  bone  snapped,  laid 
for  half  an  hour  in  olive  oil,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  broiled  till  done;  served  on 
toast  with  strips  of  broiled  bacon,  Maitre 
d'H3tel  butter,  garnished  with  Julienne  pota- 
toes, 

GROUSE  CUTLETS  BRE  ADCRUMBED— 
Young  birds  singed,  trussed  and  roasted,  taken 
up  and  jointed,  skin  removed,  dipped  into  a 
thick  cooling  rich  game  sauce,  then  in  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  (not  cracker  dust)  then  breaded, 
and  arranged  on  a  baking  sheet,  sprinkled  with 
melted  butter,  placed  in  oven,  basted  and 
browned;  served  garnished  with  Duchesse 
potatoes. 

GRUYERE  OR  SWISS— Name  of  an  imported 
cheese  used  both  in  cooking  and  for  the  table; 
is  large,  round,  tliick  and  flat  in  shape,  has  a 
peculiar  nutty  flavor  and  when  cut  is  found 
to  be  full  of  small  holes. 

G  ROUPER—  Name  of  one  of  our  Southern  fishes, 
found  in  three  varieties,  black,  red  and  white; 
the  shape  is  a  cross  between  a  carp  and  a  bass, 
weighs  from  5  to  10  lbs.;  the  flesh  is  firm  but 
coarse;  a  second  class  fish. 

BOILED  GROUPER,  CAPER  SAUCE— The 
fish  prepared  and  boiled  in  salted  water  with 
a  little  vinegar  (time  to  simmer  about  40  min- 
utes), taken  up  and  drained;  served  with  caper 
sauce  and  garnished  with  HoUandaise  potatoes. 

BOILED  GROUPER,  MATELOTE  GARNISH 
— The  fish  prepared  and  scored,  boiled  whole 
in  court-bouillon  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs 
whsn  done,  drained;  served  in  slices  with  a  lit- 
tle lobster  coral  strewn  over,  garnished  with  a 
Matelote  (see  garnishes). 

GROUPER  STUFFED  AND  BAKED,  TOMA- 
TO SAUCE— The  fish  scaled  and  washed, 
back  bone  and  entrails  removed,  stuffed,  put 
back  in  shape  and  tied  with  twine,  baked  whole 
with  slices  of  salt  pork;  served  in  portions  with 
a  strip  of  the  pork  and  tomato  sauce  poured 
around. 

BAKED  GROUPER,  GULF  STYLE— The  fish 
scaled,  head  removed,  split  down  the  back  and 
the  backbone  removed,  laid  out  on  greased  pan, 
seasoned  with  mixed  peppers  and  salt,  placed 
in  oven  till  heated  through  and  set,  then  taken 
out,  moistened  with  melted  butter,  returned  to 
oven,  baked  with  frequent  basting  till  done 
and  brown;  served  in  portions  with  tomato 
pur^e  around,  and  garnished  with  lemons. 

GROUPER  SAUT£,  LOBSTER  SAUCE—  The 
fish  prepared,  cut  in  steaks,  laid  in  seasoned 
olive  oil,  saut^ed  with  it;  when  done  and  brown, 
served  with  lobster  coral  strewn  over  the  por- 
tion and  lobster  sauce  around. 

BAKED  RED  GROUPER,  SPANISH  SAUCE 
— The  fish  cleaned  and  scored,  arranged  in  bak- 
ing pan,  moistened  with  white  stock  and  some 


fat  from  the  stock  pot,  seasoned  with  salt,  veg- 
etables and  a  dash  of  vinegar,  place  in  medium 
oven;  when  about  a  third  done,  remove  the  up- 
per skin,  then  baste  frequently  till  done  and 
brown,  (about  one  hour  is  required  for  a  7  lb. 
fish);  served  in  portions  with  Spanish  sauce 
poured  around. 

GUAVA — Name  of  a  Southern  and  West  Indian 
fruit  that  is  chiefly  used  in  making  preserves 
and  jellies.  Guava  jelly  is  one  of  the  best  to 
serve  with  delicate  flavored  game. 

GUINEA  HEN—  A  domestic  fowl  smaller  than 
the  ordinary  chicken,  with  darker  flesh,  often 
takes  the  place  of  partridge;  is  best  to  serve  in 
the  spring  of  the  year  when  game  is  a  bit  scarce. 

ROAST  LARDED  GUINEA  HEN— The  bird 
singed  and  drawn,  the  legs  and  breast  larded 
with  seasoned  strips  of  fat  pork,  rolled  in  but- 
tered paper,  baked  till  done  and  brown;  served 
with  a  brown  poultry  gravy,  garnished  with 
watercress. 

BROILED  GUINEA  HEN,  WITH  BACON— 
Young  birds  singed,  split  down  the  back,  the 
breast  and  backbones  removed,  thigh  bone 
snapped,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled 
in  flour,  then  in  melted  butter,  broiled;  served 
on  toast  with  strips  of  bacon,  Maitre  D'Hotel 
butter,  and  garnished  with  Julienne  potatoes 
and  watercress. 

ROAST  GUINEA  HEN,  SAUCE  BE.\RNAISE- 
The  birds  singed  and  cleaned,  trussed,  slices  of 
fat  larding  pork  tied  over  the  breast,  roasted; 
when  about  done,  the  pork  removed,  then 
quickly  browned;  served  in  portions,  garnished 
at  ends  of  dish  with  fancy  croutons,  and  Bear- 
naise  sauce  at  the  sides. 

BRAISED  STUFFED  GUINEA  HEN— The 
birds  singed  and  drawn,  filled  with  a  quenelle 
forcemeat,  the  breasts  larded,  arranged  in  a 
braizer  with  vegetables  and  spices,  moistened 
with  stock  and  white  wine,  covered  with  strips 
of  bacon,  braised  and  basted  till  done  taken  up, 
the  braise  strained  and  skimmed,  then  rapidly 
reduced  to  demi  glaze,  which  is  then  added  to 
a  Financifere  garnish,  the  bird  served  whole  or 
in  portions  with  the  garnish  around. 

GUMBO — Another  name  for  the  vegetable  okra; 
for  recipes  see  "OKRA". 

HADDOCK— A  fish  of  the  cod  species  but 
smaller;  when  dried  and  smoked  is  known  as 
smoked  haddock  or  Finnan  Haddie,  from  the 
village  of  Finnan  near  Aberdeen,  Scotland, 
which  is  as  famous  for  its  curing  haddocks  as 
Yarmouth  is  for  its  bloaters. 

BAKED  STUFFED  HADDOCK-The  fish  scaled 
and  cleaned,  backbone  removed,  filled  with  an 
oyster  stuffing,  baked  and  basted  till  done; 
served  in  portions  with  a  brown  oyster  sauce. 

BOILED  HADDOCK,  OYSTER  SAUCE— The 
fish  prepared  and  cut  in  portions,  boiled  till 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


93 


done  in  salted  water  with  a  dash  of  vinegar;  with  milk  and  butter;  served  with  a  sauce  made 

served  with  white  oyster  sauce  and  garnished  of  mustard,  butter  and  lemon  juice  mixed  to- 

with  Hollandaise  potatoes.     (With  boiled  had-  gether  so  that  it  is  soft  enough  to  melt  when 

dock,  egg,  cream,  Bfechamel,  parsley,   shrimp,  laid  on  the  hot  fish, 

lobster,  crab  and  Hollandaise  sauces  are  also  HAGGIS— Name  of  a  Scotch  national  dish  pre- 


appropnate). 

FILLETS  OF  HADDOCK,  SAUTfi— The  fish 
cleaned,  boned,  cut  in  fillets,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  saut6ed  in  but- 
ter, taken  up,  gravy  made  in  the  pan,  strained, 
the  fish  served  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust, 
gravy  at  the  sides,  garnished  with  Parisienne 
potatoes. 

FILLETS  OF  HADDOCK,  BREAD  CRUMB- 
ED, DUTCH  SAUCE— Prepared  and  cut  into 
fillets  as  in  the  preceding,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  fried;  served  with  Dutch  sauce  at 
the  sides,  garnished  with  cress  and  lemon. 

BROILED  FRESH  HADDOCK,  ANCHOVY 
BUTTER— Prepared  and  cui  in  fillets,  rolled 
in  flour,  broiled  and  basted  with  butter;  served 
spread  with  anchovy  butter,  garnished  with 
Saratoga  chips,  watercress  and  lemon  slices. 

CREAMED  HADDOCK  WITH  OYSTERS— 
cold  boiled  haddock  in  flakes  without  skin, 
heated  in  Hollandaise  sauce  with  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  blanched  and  drained  oysters;  served 
piled  high  on  toast,  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust. 

BAKED  FINNAN  HADDIE,  BUTTER  SAUCE 
— The  fish  trimmed  and  skinned,  arranged  in 
a  baking  pan  with  a  little  water,  placed  in  oven 
till  set,  water  then  poured  off,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  moistened  with  butter  sauce,  baked; 
served  with  the  sauce,  garnished  with  parsley 
and  croutons. 

FINNAN  HADDIE  SAUTfe,  PARSLEY  SAUCE 
— The  fish  skinned  and  trimmed,  laid  in  warm 
water  for  a  few  minutes,  then  saut^ed  with  but- 
ter: served  on  toast  with  parsley  butter  sauce 
poured  over,  garnish  with  watercress. 

FINNAN  HADDIE  BOILED,  CREAM  SAUCE 
— The  fish  skinned  and  trimmed,  laid  in  warm 


pared  by  cutting  into  small  pieces  the  heart, 
liver,  milt  and  skirt,  together  with  the  lungs  of 
a  freshly  killed  sheep;  after  first  blanching  and 
boiling  till  tender  each  separate  part,  to  each 
set  of  haslets  as  above  is  mixed  one  pound  of 
finely  chopped  beef  suet,  one  half  pint  each  of 
minced  onion  and  oatmeal,  seasoned  with  salt, 
red  and  black  pepper,  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice, 
the  whole  thoroughly  mixed  and  moistened  with 
a  little  beef  gravy,  the  mixture  is  then  filled  in- 
to a  well  cleansed  sheep  paunch,  sewn  up, 
pricked  with  a  fork  to  allow  air  escape,  plunged 
into  boiling  salted  water,  and  kept  simmering 
till  done,  about  two  and  a  half  hours;  served 
without  any  garnish. 

HALIBUT  —  A  large  flat  fish  of  the  flounder 
species,  the  young  and  medium  sized  ones  be- 
ing the  best,  and  known  as  "Chicken  halibut". 

BOILED  HALIBUT  STEAK,  CREAM  SAUCE 
— The  fish  scaled  and  trimmed,  cut  into  steaks, 
simmered  in  boiling  salted  water  containing  a 
dash  of  vinegar;  served  sprinkled  with  parsley 
dust,  cream  sauce  at  the  sides. 

BROILED  HALIBUT  STEAK— The  steaks  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  then 
in  olive  oil,  broiled;  served  with  maitre  d'hotel 
butter,  garnished  with  watercress  and  lemon, 
sometimes  with  a  strip  of  broiled  bacon. 

BOILED  HALIBUT— The  fish  scaled  and  trim- 
med, cut  into  portions,  boiled  in  salted  water 
with  a  dash  of  vinegar;  served  with  either  lob- 
ster, clam,  cream  or  Hollandaise  sauces. 

BAKED  HALIBUT,  EGG  SAUCE— The  fish 
scaled  and  trimmed,  cut  into  portions,  arranged 
in  baking  pan,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
moistened  with  milk  and  butter,  baked  and 
basted  till  done;  served  with  egg  sauce,  garn- 
ished with  slices  of  hard  boiled  eggs. 


water  for  an  hour,  washed,  then  put  to  boil  in    FRIED  HALIBUT  STEAK,  WITH  BACON— 


cold  water;  served  with  cream  sauce  poured 
over,  garnished  with  Hollandaise  potatoes. 

FINNAN  HADDIE  BAKED  WITH  TOMA- 
TOES— The  fish  skinned  and  trimmed,  laid  in 
warm  water  for  an  hour,  washed,  blanched, 
cut  in  portions,  arranged  in  baking  pan  with 
sliced  peeled  tomatoes,  minced  fried  shallots 
and  chopped  parsley,  baked;  served  on  toast 
with  the  tomatoes  around. 

FINNAN  HADDIE  BROILED,  LOBSTER 
BUTTER— The  fish  skinned,  trimmed,  blanch- 
ed, dried,  seasoned  with  pepper,  rolled  in  olive 
oil,  broiJed,  served  on  toast,  spread  with  lob- 
ster butter,  garnished  with  watercress. 

FINNAN  HADDIE  BAKED,  ABERDEEN 
STYLE— The  fish  skinned  and  trimmed,  baked 


Slices  of  bacon  blanched,  then  fried,  the  steaks 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour, 
then  dipped  into  beaten  eggs,  fried  a  golden 
brown  in  the  bacon  fat;  served  with  strips  of 
bacon. 

HALIBUT  STEAK  SAUTfe,  TOMATO  SAUCE 
— The  steaks  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rolled  in  flour,  slowly  saut^ed  a  golden  color 
with  butter;  served  with  a  sauce  composed  of 
equal  parts  of  tomato  pur^e  and  tomato  catsup. 

CREAMED  HALIBUT  WITH  MUSHROOMS 
— Flakes  of  cold  boiled  halibut  mixed  with 
slices  of  saut^ed  button  mushrooms,  moistened 
with  B^hamel  sauce,  filled  into  deep  oval  or 
scallop  dishes,  sprinkled  with  breadcrumbs  and 
melted  butter,  baked  a  delicate  brown  and 
served. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


HAM — A  leg  of  pork  salted  and  smoked.  Hams 
to  be  boiled,  steamed  or  baked,  should  be  soaked 
overnight  in  cold  water,  thoroughly  scrubbed 
in  the  morning,  and  when  cooking  should  be 
allowed  20  minutes  time  for  each  pound  in 
weight.  If  to  be  kept  for  serving  when  cold, 
they  should  be  allowed  to  cool  in  the  water 
they  were  boiled  in,  as  that  keeps  them  moist 
down  to  the  last  cutting,  even  for  a  week  or 
more. 

STEWED  HAM  WITH  SPINACH— The  ham 
prepared  and  steamed  as  directed  above,  taken 
up,  skinned;  served  in  slices  on  a  bed  of  spin- 
ach with  brown  sauce  at  sides. 

BOILED  HAM  WITH  LIMA  BEANS— Soaked 
overnight,  scrubbed,  boiled  for  20  minutes  to 
the  pound;  served  in  slices  with  a  garnish  of 
fresh  lima  beans  in  brown  sauce. 

ROAST  HAM,  CHAMPAGNE  SAUCE— The 
ham  prepared,  then  steamed  two-thirds  of  its 
cooking  time,  taken  up  and  skinned,  placed  in 
baking  pan  in  medium  oven,  baked  and  basted 
till  done;  but  five  minutes  before  taking  up, 
sprinkle  with  sugar  to  nicely  glaze  it;  serve  with 
champagne  sauce  at  sides. 

ROAST  STUFFED  HAM— The  ham  prepared, 
then  boned,  the  bone  holes  filled  with  pork 
forcemeat,  drawn  together  and  tied  with  string 
then  sewn  in  a  cloth,  steamed  two-thirds  of  its 
cooking  time,  then  finished  in  medium  oven 
after  removing  cloth  and  skin;  served  with  cel- 
ery sauce  or  sauce  flavored  with  celery  salt. 

BRAISED  HAM  WITH  VEGETABLES— Pre- 
pared, boned  and  stuffed  as  in  the  preceding, 
tied  in  a  cloth  and  boiled  till  within  half  an  hour 
of  its  cooking  time,  then  taken  up,  cloth  and 
skin  removed,  placed  in  a  brazier  with  a  pint  of 
Madeira  wine,  rapidly  braised  and  basted  till 
done  and  the  wine  reduced,  taken  up,  Espag- 
nole  sauce  added  to  the  braise  with  a  little  cur- 
rent jelly,  boiled  up,  strained  and  skimmed; 
the  ham  served  in  slices  with  the  sauce  over  or 
under,  garnished  with  glazed  root  vegetables. 

CROQUETTES  OF  HAM  WITH  GREEN 
PEAS — Cold  cooked  ham  finely  cut  two- thirds, 
mixed  with  one-third  of  fresh  mashed  potatoes 
and  a  few  egg  yolks,  seasoned  with  nutmeg  and 
pepper,  rolled  into  the  desired  shape,  breaded, 
fried;  served  surrounded  with  green  peas  in 
V^lout^  sauce. 

MINCED  HAM  WITH  EGG— Cold  ham  trim- 
mings minced,  mixed  with  a  seasoning  of 
minced  and  fried  shallots,  parsley,  cayenne 
and  a  little  horseradish  mustard,  moistened 
with  a  little  sauce  or  gravy,  thoroughly  heated; 
served  heaped  high  on  buttered  toast,  with  a 
poached  egg  on  top,  or  garnished  with  slices  of 
hot  hard  boiled  eggs.  Creamed  young  carrots, 
Parisienne  vegetables.  Jardiniere,  and  aspara- 
gus tips  also  make  a  desirable  garnish  for  this 
dish. 


HAMBURGER— Or  Hamburg  steaks  are  minced 
beef  with  a  little  onion,  a  suspicion  of  garlic, 
salt  and  pepper  seasoning,  fried  or  broiled,  and 
served  either  plain  or  with  any  of  the  sauces 
appropriate  to  steaks. 

TOMATOED  HAMBURGER— The  same  as 
above  but  freely  mixed  with  raw  tomato  meat 
freed  from  skin  and  seeds;  should  be  served 
with  tomato  sauce. 

HARE — Practically  ti^e  dark  fleshed  rabbit  which 
attains  a  larger  size  than  the  common  or  white 
fleshed  one,  and  which  is  also  of  superior  fla- 
vor. We  commonly  call  it  the  "Jack  rabbit". 
The  steward  should  watch  to  buy  young  ones 
only;  an  old  or  soft  limp  one  is  beyond  the 
chef's  ingenuity  to  prepare  for  table  service 
and  give  the  patronage  satisfaction;  the  young 
ones  are  EASILY  told  by  tearing  the  ears  with 
the  thumb  and  finger,  IF  THEY  DO  NOT 
TEAR  EASILY,  LEAVE  THExM  ALONE. 

STUFFED  SADDLE  OF  HARE  WITH  JELLY 
— The  saddle  from  the  shoulders  to  the  legs, 
cut  in  halves  across  making  two  portions,  boned, 
stuffed  with  game  or  other  forcemeat,  tied 
round  with  twine,  arranged  in  baking  pan,  each 
piece  covered  with  a  slice  of  fat  pork,  roasted 
and  basted  till  done,  taken  up,  little  brown 
sauce  added  to  the  pan,  boiled  up,  strained  and 
skimmed,  then  poured  to  the  hare;  served  with 
red  currant  jelly  and  garnished  with  fancy 
crofltOQs. 

FILLETS  OF  HARE,  POIVRADE  SAUCE— 
The  legs  and  saddles  marinaded  for  two  hours 
in  a  little  white  wine  with  slices  of  carrot  and 
onion,  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  the  whole  then 
placed  in  a  sautoir  with  a  little  fat  pork,  lid 
put  on,  placed  in  hot  oven,  roasted  and  basted 
till  done,  about  45  minutes,  taken  up,  poivrade 
sauce  added  to  the  residue,  boiled  up,  strained 
and  skimmed;  served  with  the  fillets,  garnished 
with  crodtons. 

BRAISED  HARE  WITH  GAMECRO- 
QUETTES--The  legs  and  saddles  prepared  as 
in  the  preceding,  the  fore  quarters  of  the  hare 
used  to  make  the  croquettes;  served,  the  fillets 
on  a  fancy  bed  of  mashed  potatoes,  the  <!auce 
around,  garnished  with  the  croquettes. 

CIVET  OF  HARE,  HUNTER'S  STYLE  —  The 
shoulders  are  the  best  for  this  dish,  slices  of 
bacon  blanched,  then  cut  into  even  sized  small 
pieces  and  fried,  the  hare  rolled  in  flour  and 
fried  lightly  in  the  bacon  fat,  both  then  put  into  a 
sautoir;  to  the  remaining  fat  flour  is  added  to 
form  a  roux,  moistened  with  stock  and  red  1 
wine,  boiled  up,  skimmed,  then  strained  over 
the  meat,  to  which  is  added  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  parsley,  onions,  salt,  pepper  and  a  few 
whole  cloves,  simmered  till  done,  hare  and 
bacon  then  taken  up  into  the  serving  pan,  the 
sauce  further  thickened  with  the  liver  made  in- 
to a  paste,  and  the  blood,  (it  must  not  be  boiled 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK 


95 


after  the  blood  is  in)  then  strained  over  the 
meat;  served,  garnished  with  fried  button 
mushrooms  and  small  onions  that  have  been 
blanched,  then  fried. 

FILLETS  OF  HARE,  SAUTfeS— The  legs  and 
saddles  trimmed,  then  fried  with  butter,  or 
bacon  fat,  taken  up  into  a  sautoir,  moistened 
with  Bourgignotte  sauce,  simmered  till  tender; 
served  garnished  with  croutons  and  slices  of 
truffles  on  the  hare. 

FRIED  FILLETS  OF  HARE— The  legs  and 
saddles  trimmed,  then  fried  with  butter,  taken 
up  into  a  sautoir,  moistened  with  game  gravy, 
simmered  a  little  while;  served  garnished  with 
small  poached  quenelles  made  from  the  fore- 
quarters. 

LARDED  SADDLES  OF  HARE— The  saddles 
boned  and  trimmed,  tied  into  shape  with  twine, 
larded  with  seasoned  strips  of  pork,  rolled  in 
buttered  paper,  roasted  till  done,  taken  up, 
paper  removed,  rolled  in  game  glaze;  served  on 
fancy  shaped  toast  with  Poivrade  sauce  poured 
around. 

JUGGED  HARE— The  hare  cut  into  fillets  and 
boned,  the  bones  and  head  pounded,  then 
boiled  with  vegetables  in  stock  and  red  wine, 
the  fillets  lightly  fried  in  bacon  fat;  stone  crock 
lined  with  bacon,  the  fillets  put  in,  the  bone 
liquor  thickened,  strained  over  the  meat,  baked 
slowly  till  tender  (about  three  hours);  when 
done,  grease  skimmed  off;  served.  It  may  also 
be  made  in  individual  dishes  and  served  in  the 
one  it  was  baked  in. 

FILLETS  OF  HARE,  TOMATO  SAUCE— The 
legs  and  saddles  larded  and  braised;  when 
done,  the  braise  strained  and  skimmed,  added 
to  a  rich  tomato  sauce;  served  with  the  meat, 
garnished  with  crofltons. 

CUTLETS  OF  HARE,  PIQUANTE  SAUCE— 
The  legs  fried  in  butter,  then  simmered  in 
game  gravy  till  tender,  taken  up  and  cooled, 
then  breaded  and  fried,  Piquante  sauce  made 
from  the  gravy  they  were  simmered  in;  served 
with  the  cutlets,  garnished  with  slices  of  stoned 
olives. 

SCALLOPS  OF  HARE  WITH  FINE  HERBS 
— Fillets  of  hare  cut  into  scallops,  flattened, 
trimmed,  sauteed  in  clear  butter,  taken  up  into 
a  fines-herbes  sauce  to  which  is  added  button 
mushrooms,  simmered  till  done;  served  piled 
high  in  centre  of  dish,  garnished  with  small 
cone  shaped  croquettes  made  from  the  inferior 
parts. 

SCALLOPS  OF  HARE  WITH  TONGUE, 
SAUCE  PfeRIGUEUX- Prepared  and  sauteed 
as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  taken  up  intoap^ri- 
gueux  sauce;  served  piled  high  in  centre  of 
dish  with  circles  of  tongue  overlapping  each 
other  around  the  base,  garnished  with  small 
croquettes  as  in  the  preceding. 


HERRING — The  Lake  Superior  herring  is  the 
best  for  filleting,  as  its  fillets  are  boneless;  the 
fresh  water  herring  of  the  lower  lakes  is  not  so! 
The  blue  backs  or  sea  herrings  are  packed  into 
barrels  and  shipped  all  over  the  States  when  in 
season,  which  is  a  very  short  one. 

BOILED  FRESH  HERRING,  SHRIMP 
SAUCE — Prepare  by  cutting  off  the  head  and 
fins,  then  scale,  draw,  wash  and  score  the  sides, 
put  into  boiling  salted  water  and  simmer  for  15 
minutes,  take  up,  drain;  serve  with  shrimp 
sauce. 

BROILED  FRESH  HERRING,  MUSTARD 
SAUCE — Prepared  herrings  marinaded  for  an 
hour  in  olive  oil  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
taken  up,  broiled;  serve  with  a  good  anchovy 
sauce  finished  with  mustard  and  lemon  juice. 

FRIED  FRESH  HERRINGS.  MUSTARD 
BUTTER — Prepared  herrings  seasoned,  rolled 
in  flour,  fried  in  clarified  butter,  served  spread 
with  melted  butter  mixed  with  mustard,  garn- 
ished with  parsley  and  lemon. 

BOILED  FRESH  HERRINGS,  CREAM 
SAUCE — Prepared  herrings  boiled  in  salted 
water  slowly  for  15  minutes,  taken  up,  drained; 
served  with  cream  sauce  poured  over. 

BAKED  FRESH  HERRINGS,  FENNEL 
SAUCE — Prepared  herrings  arranged  in  baking 
pan  with  a  few  bay  leaves,  moisten  slightly 
with  equal  parts  of  fish  broth  and  vinegar, 
baked  and  basted  till  done,  taken  up;  served 
with  a  spoonful  of  the  liquor  over  them,  fennel 
sauce  at  the  sides. 

BAKED  STUFFED  HERRING— Prepared  her- 
rings filleted  and  boned;  spread  with  fish  force- 
meat, the  two  sides  then  again  put  together  as 
if  the  fish  was  sandwiched  with  farce,  arranged 
in  buttered  baking  pan,  baked  and  basted; 
served  with  a  Miitre  d'Hotel  sauce. 

CURRIED  FRESH  HERRINGS,  WITH  EGGS 
— Boneless  sides  of  herrings  sauteed  in  clarified 
butter,  taken  up  into  a  curry  sauce  made  from 
fish  broth,  simmered  a  few  minutes,  taken  up, 
coated  with  sauce;  served  on  a  long  strip  of 
toast,  garnished  with  slices  of  hot  hard  boiled 
eggs.  (Good  dish  for  Fridays). 

BONED  FRESH  HERRING  ON  TOAST— 
Split,  boned,  sprinkled  with  pepper,  salt, 
thyme,  rolled  from  tail  to  head,  tied  with  twine 
or  tape,  baked  in  court-bouillon  with  a  dash  of 
tarragon  vinegar;  served  on  circles  of  toast  with 
lemon  parsley  sauce. 

SOUSED  HERRINGS— Scale  and  draw  the  fish, 
cut  off  the  heads,  wash  and  drain,  arrange  in 
porcelain  lined  baking  pans,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  ground  allspice,  a  few  bay  leaves 
and  shallots,  moisten  to  two-thirds  of  their 
height  with  white  wine  vinegar,  cover  with 
another  pan,  place  in  oven  and  bake  very  slowly 
for  an  hour;  served  cold,  wiped  dry,  garnished 
with  watercress. 


96 

HICKORY— Name  of  one  ot  the  common  nuts, 
also  called  Pecans;  used  in  cake  making,  decor- 
ating, flavoring,  etc. 

HOE  CAKES-Name  of  a  Southern  pancake  made 
of  ground  maize,  salt  and  water. 

HOT  POT  OR  HOTCH  POTCH— A  soup  stew 
made  and  baked  in  a  pot  as  follows:  take  a 
large  earthern  crock,  into  it  put  four  lbs.  of 
lean  beef  trimmings  cut  into  inch  pieces,  one 
lb.  of  small  balls  of  pork  sausage  meat,  one- 
half  a  cupful  of  sliced  onions,  one  cupful  each 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ing  liquor  poured  out,  the  cups  then  replaced 
so  as  to  solidify  the  part  where  the  liquid  re- 
mained, the  cups  then  turned  out,  filled  with 
any  form  of  ice  difierent  in  color  to  the  cup. 
ORANGE  ICES— Oranges  with  a  slice  cut  to 
form  a  lid,  the  interior  and  pith  scooped  out, 
the  skins  then  soaked  in  water  for  an  hour, 
then  dried  and  filled  with  orange  water  ice 
mixed  with  French  fruits  glaces  that  have  been 
soaked  in  a  liqueur;  they  are  then  frozen  and 
served. 


of  sliced  and  peeled  cucumbers,  carrots  and    IMPERIAL    ICES — Ice  cups   made   as   above. 


asparagus  points,  one  pint  each  of  green  peas 
and  skinned  tomatoes,  a  handful  of  washed 
rice,  one  cupful  of  chopped  green  peppers  and 
a  small  heart  of  cabbage  shredded,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper  (NO  SPICES),  add  four  gal- 
lons of  cold  water,  place  on  the  crock  cover, 
put  in  a  moderate  oven  at  6  a.  m.  and  it  will  be 
ready  for  12  o'clock  dinner. 
Another  hot  pot  is  made  with  scrags  of  mutton 
instead  of  the  beef  and  pork,  substituting  leeks 
and  barley  for  the  peppers  and  rice. 
HOMINY— Is  hulled  maize,  marketed  in  differ- 
ent grades  as  to  size;  the  large  is  generally 
known  as  "hulled  corn"  is  boiled  like  rice  and 
served  with  milk;  or  boiled  very  soft,  turned 
out  into  a  buttered  pan,  when  cold,  cut  into 
strips  rolled  in  flour  (never  bread  it),  fried  a 
delicate  brown  .and  served  either  as  a  garnish, 
or  for  breakfast  with  maple  syrup.  When 
boiling  hominy  which  is  to  be  fried,  always  add 


then  filled  with  strawberry  water  ice  flavored 
with  champagne—  Pineapple  Water  Ice  flavored 
with  Santa  Cruz  rum — Cherry  Water  Ice  fla- 
ored  with  Noyeaux,  etc. 
FANCY  WATER  ICES— Freeze  solidly  all  forms 
of  water  ices  in  equal  quantities,  such  as  Nut 
Cream  Ice,  Madeira  Ice,  Claret  Ice,  Pistachio 
Cream,  Raspberry  and  Strawberry  Water  Ices, 
Curapoa  Cream  Ice,  Orange  and  Lemon  Ices, 
Cherry  Water  Ice,  Caramel  Cream  Ice,  etc., 
then  fill  individual  forms  in  shapes  of  fruit  and 
flowers,  close  the  molds,  pack,  freeze,  turn  out 
and  serve. 

The  same  to  be  done  with  all  kinds  of  ice 
creams  such  as  Vanilla,  Cherry,  Chocolate, 
Tea, Coffee,  Currant,  Grape,  Chestnut,  Almond, 
Pistachio,  Noyeaux,  filled  into  individual  forms 
of  fruit  and  flowers,  vegetables,  etc  ,  the  idea 
being  to  have  varigated  colors,  flavors  and 
shapes. 


towards  the  finish,  some  flour,  as  that  will  hold    ICED  SNOWBALLS— Rice  boiled  very  tender, 


it  together  and  stop  it  from  breaking  and  spi 

ting  when  being  fried. 
BOILED   HOMINY— A  breakfast    cereal:   fine 

hominy  soaked  overnight,  boiled  for  two  hours 

in  a  farina  kettle;  served  with  cream  and  sugar. 
HOMINY  CROQUETTES— The  preceding  when 


in  water,  sweetened,  flavored  with  orange  or 
lemon  juice,  frozen  in  the  shape  of  balls,  then 
taken  out,  rolled  in  whipped  cream,  served  if 
possible  in  a  shallow  green  glass  dish,  the  top 
of  the  ball  sparingly  spotted  with  green  pista- 
chio gratings. 


boiled  mixed  with  a  little  grated  cheese  and    NEAPOLITAN  BRICKS— Brick  molds  filled  in 


flour,   beaten  egg  yolks,  salt  and  red  pepper, 
poured  into  buttered  pan,  when  cold,  made  in- 
to form,  breaded  and  fried. 
HORSERADISH— Name    of    a  pungent  root. 


three  colors  of  ice  cream  or  one  of  them  may 
be  water  ice,  so  as  when  cut  to  show  three  dis- 
tinct layers,  frozen  solid,  turned  out,  cut  in 
slices. 


grated  fine  and  used  as  a  table  condiment,  and    ICED    FROTHS— Fancy  shaped  glasses   filled 


in  flavoring  sauces;  as  a  condiment  is  best  as 
follows:  One  pint  of  grated  horseradish,  one- 


with   whipped  cream   piled   high,    sweetened, 
frozen;  served  in  the  same  glasses. 


half  a  pint  of  white  wine  vinegar,  salt,  little    jrish  MOSS-An  edible  seaweed,   gelatinous. 


sugar,  mix  and  use. 

HORSERADISH  BUTTER  —  Equal  parts  of 
grated  horseradish  and  butter  well  pounded  to- 
gether with  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  lemon  juice, 
then  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve;  served  spread 
over  broiled  steaks. 

ICES— These  include  sherbets,  cream  ices,  water 
ices,  etc.,  in  infinite  varieties. 

CUP  ICES— Small  fluted  cups  or  glasses  filled 
with  fruit  syrups  and  placed  in  a  large  tub  or 
tray,  with  pounded  ice  and  salt  around  them; 
when  frozen  a  sufficient  thickness,  the  remain- 


reddish  brown  in  color,  good  for  those  with 
delicate  digestions  in  blanc-mange,  creams, 
flawns,  farinas,  etc. 
IRISH  STEW— The  neck  chops  of  mutton  that 
are  under  the  shoulder,  trimmed,  gristle  re- 
moved, boiled  with  the  shanks  from  the  legs 
and  shoulders  and  other  mutton  trimmings  till 
half  done,  taken  up  and  stewed  with  potatoes 
and  onions  till  tender  in  the  strained  and 
skimmed  stock  from  the  boiling,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  lightly  thickened;  served  sprink- 
led with  chopped  parsley. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


97 


ISINGLASS— A  form  of  gelatine  prepared  from 
the  swim  bladder  of  the  sturgeon;  more  expen- 
sive than  gelatine  without  any  appreciable  bet- 
ter results. 

JARDINIERE— Name  applied  to  a  garnish  of 
small  cut  mixed  vegetables,  such  as  carrots, 
turnips,  asparagus  tips,  cauliflower,  stringless 
beans  and  some  green  peas,  cooked  in  seasoned 
broth,  drained;  served  plain  or  tossed  with  half 
glaze  or  meat  gravy. 

JELLY — A  clarified,  gelatinous  combination  of 
sugar,  water,  spices  and  colorings,  flavored 
with  wine,  fruit  juices,  etc.;  also  made  from 
calf's  feet  (see  calf).     To  make   the  stock  jelly 


APRICOT   JELLY— Stock    jelly  flavored  with 

maraschino,  the  mold  filled  with  it  and  halves 

of  peeled  apricots. 
MACfeDOINE  JELLY— Stock  jelly  flavored  with 

maraschino,  the  mold  filled  with  it  and  small 

whole  fruits. 
RUSSIAN   JELLY— Stock  jelly    flavored   with 

liqueur,  then  whipped  to  a  fioth  on  ice,   filled 

into  molds  and  set. 
PISTACHIO  JELLY— Stock  jelly  flavored  with 

Dantzic  brandy,  mold  filled  half  an  inch  deep, 

shredded  pistachios  then  strewn   in,    the  mold 

then  filled  in  with  layers  of  jelly  strewn  with 

pistachios. 


use  2  qts.   of  water  or  fruit  juices,   3  ozs.  of   ORANGE  JELLY— When  making  the  stock  jelly 


dissolved  gelatine,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of 
4  lemons,  i  lb.  of  granulated  sugar,  the  broken 
whites  and  shells  of  6  eggs,  mix  well,  bring  to 
the  simmer;  after  it  coagulates,  allow  the  scum 
to  assume  a  grey  color,  so  as  to  perfectly  clar- 
ify, then  strain  through  a  flannel  bag  three 
times  and  use  for  the  following: 

FRUIT  JELLY— Stock  jelly  flavored  with  sherry 
wine,  fancy  molds  filled  an  inch  deep,  allowed 
to  set,  then  fruit  arranged  as  a  border;  if  cur- 
rants or  grapes  arranged  in  bunches;  molds 
then  gradually  filled  with  limpid  jelly  and  set. 

WEST  INDIAN  JELLY— Stock  jelly  strongly 
flavored  with  Jamaica  rum,  fancy  molds  filled 
an  inch  deep  and  allowed  to  set,  slices  of 
bananas  and  sections  of  seeded  oranges  then 
arranged  as  a  border,  jellied  and  set,  the  mold 
then  filled  with  limpid  jelly,  set,  turned  out  and 
served. 

RIBBON  JELLY— Stock  jelly  in  three  parts,  one 
colored  with  strawberry  juice,  one  with  cara- 
mel and  flavored  with  brandy,  the  third 
whipped  to  a  froth  on  ice,  and  flavored  with 
benedictine,  arranged  in  molds  with  six  layers, 
each  to  be  set  before  the  other  is  put  in,  com- 
mence with  the  red,  then  the  whipped,  and 
lastly  the  caramel.  These  three  colors  and 
flavors  look  well  in  three  triangles  as  follows: 
hold  the  mold  so  that  you  form  a  triangle  shape 
of  red  jelly,  set  that,  then  reverse  the  side  and 
form  a  triangle  with  the  caramel,  that  leaves  a 
wedge  shape  from  the  tip  to  the  base,  then  fill 
up  with  the  whipped  jelly. 

PINEAPPLE  JELLY  Stock  jelly  flavored  with 
noyeaux,  the  mold  filled  with  ii  and  pieces  of 
pineapple. 

STRAWBERRY   JELLY— Stock  jelly  flavored 

with  strawberry  juice,   the  mold  filled  with  it 

and  whole  strawberries. 
RASPBERRY  JELLY— Stock  jelly  flavored  with 

red  raspberry  juice,  the  mold  filled  with  it  and 

whole  raspberries. 
BLACKBERRY  JELLY— For  this  use  a  border 

mold,  and  when  turned  out,  fill  the  centre  with 

whipped  cream. 


add  the  grated  rinds  of  oranges  and  a  little 
cochineal  to  give  it  the  orange  tint;  when  done 
and  strained,  fill  into  molds. 

LEMON  JELLY— Made  the  same  as  orange  jelly 
except  use  grated  lemon  rinds,  and  omit  the 
cochineal. 

JULIENNE  —  Name  applied  to  a  garnish  of 
shredded  root  vegetables,  also  to  shredded 
potatoes. 

JUNIPER— Name  of  a  blue  berry  used  for  flav- 
oring gin;  also  adds  a  nice  flavor  to  corned 
meat  when  a  muslin  bagful  of  crushed  berriei 
is  added  to  the  brine. 

KALE — A  vegetable  in  appearance  like  endive, 
and  in  taste  like  green  cabbage,  cooked  tha 
same  as  spinach. 

KHULASH  OR  GOULASH— Name  of  a  ragout 
much  esteemed  by  the  Hungarians;  made  by 
taking  pieces  of  beef  and  sau toeing  them  with 
onions  in  butter,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pap- 
rika, moistened  with  brown  sauce,  simmered 
till  tender;  served  garnished  with  Hollandaise 
or  Parisienne  potatoes. 

KIDNEYS— Recipes  will  be  found  under  the 
name  of  the  animal  to  which  it  belongs. 

KINGFISH— Name  of  a  Southern  fish,  exquisite 
in  flavor,  and  of  a  nice  size  for  restaurant  and 
club  service. 

BOILED  KINGFISH,  SAUCE  NORMANDE— 
The  fish  prepared,  boiled  in  salted  water  with 
a  dash  of  vinegar,  when  done,  drained;  served 
with  Normande  sauce,  garnished  with  Hollan- 
daise potatoes. 

KINGFISH  WITH  FINE  HERBS— Prepared 
and  trimmed,  arranged  in  buttered  baking  pan, 
baked  and  basted  with  butter;  served  with  fines- 
herbes  sauce,  garnished  with  Julienne  potatoes. 

BROILED  KINGFISH,  LEMON  BUTTER— 
Prepared  and  trimmed,  split  down  the  front, 
laid  open  and  the  backbone  removed,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  brusned 
with  butter,  broiled  and  basted  till  done;  served 
spread  with  M&itre  D'Hotel  batter,  garnisAwi 
with  chip  potatoes,  lemon  and  parsley. 


98 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK 


KINGFISH  SAUTfe,  SAUCE  COLBERT— 
Boneless  sides  of  the  fish  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  sautded  with  butter 
a  delicate  brown;  served  with  Colbert  sauce  and 
garnished  with  Colbert  potatoes. 

FRIED  FILLETS  OF  KINGFISH,  BREAD- 
CRUMBED— Boneless  sides  of  the  fish  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour, 
dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then  breadcrumbs,  fried; 
served  with  MSitre  D'Hotel  butter,  garnished 
with  lemon  and  parsley. 

KIRSCHWASSER— Name  of  a  liqueur  made 

from   cherry   juice;   obtained   by   crushing  the 

fruit,  stones  and  kernels,  then  fermenting;  used 

!     as  a  flavoring  to  sherbets,  cakes,   icings,  ices 

and  confectionery. 

KOHL-RABI— Name  of  the  cabbage  turnip;  may 
be  peeled,  boiled,  mashed  and  seasoned  same 
as  turnip;  or,  as  is  best,  peeled,  cut  in  quart- 
ers, boiled  in  salted  water  till  done,  drained, 
then  simmered  in  butter  sauce  a  few  minutes 
before  serving. 

KOUMISS— A  milk  preparation  tasting  like  but- 
termilk, used  as  a  health  beverage;  made  by 
filling  quart  champagne  bottles  up  to  the  neck 
with  pure  milk  to  which  is  added  a  syrup  made 
by  dissolving  two  tablespoonfuls  of  white 
sugar  in  one  of  water,  also  %  oia.  2-cent  cake 
of  yeast;  corked  and  tied  securely,  shaken  well, 
stood  for  six  hours  in  a  warm  room,  then  cooled 
overnight  by  placing  in  ice  box. 

KROMESKIES— Name  applied  to  any  form  of 
croquette  mixture  made  into  form  of  corks, 
finger  lengths,  wrapped  in  a  thin  shaving  of 
cold  boiled  bacon,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried. 

KUMMEL — Name  of  a  liqueur  prepared  from 
cumin  and  caraway  seeds  in  sweetened  spirit. 

ROAST  LAMB— Any  joint  roasted  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  to  each  pound  in  weight  in  a  medium 
oven;  must  be  frequently  basted;  about  lo 
minutes  before  taking  up,  should  be  dredged 
with  flour  and  basted  with  melted  butter,  so  as 
to  take  on  a  delicate  color;  served  either  with 
mint  sauce  or  currant  jelly  in  separate  dishes, 
with  a  spoonful  of  gravy  under  the  meat. 

BRAISED  LAMB— The  shoulder  lifted  o£E  and 
boned,  leaving  the  shank  for  a  handle,  lay  it 
out  flat,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  spread 
with  forcemeat,  roll  up,  tie  in  neat  shape, 
braise  it  with  vegetables;  served  with  the 
strained  and  skimmed  braise,  or  with  a  garnish 
of  turned  vegetables— green  peas,  glazed  col- 
umns of  turnips,  stuffed  egg  plant  and  okras, 
Brussels  sprouts,  Milanaise  garnish,  asparagus, 
larded  lamb's  sweetbreads,  etc. 

BOILED  LAMB— The  legs  simmered  in  white 
stock  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  till  done, 
aQowing  12  minutes  to  the  pound;  served  with 
cream  sauce,  caper  sauce,  spinach  pur^e,  sorrel 
puree,  haricots  verts,  shred  wax  or  stringless 
(leans,  macedoine  of  vegetables,  asparagus  tips. 


SAUTfe  OF  LAMB— The  shoulder  boned  and 
cut  into  neat  pieces,  saut^ed  with  minced 
onions  and  a  flavoring  of  garlic  in  butter,  raw 
skinned  tomatoes  cut  in  halves,  and  lightly 
fried  with  butter,  taken  up  and  added  to  the 
lamb,  the  whole  then  cooked  for  20  minutes; 
served  garnished  with  fancy  croutons. 

BLANQUETTE  OF  LAMB— The  breast  or 
boned  shoulder  cut  in  neat  pieces,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  white  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  quickly 
without  coloring,  saut6  them  with  butter  and  a 
few  minced  shallots,  take  up  into  a  sautoir,  make 
a  cream  sauce  in  the  butter,  etc.,  they  were 
saut^ed  in,  strain  over  the  lamb,  simmer  till 
done,  adding  some  button  mushrooms  and  a  little 
chopped  parsley;  serve  in  a  casserole,  or  with  a 
border  of  fancy  mashed  potatoes. 

EPIGRAMME  OF  LAMB  — Breasts  of  lamb 
simmered  in  seasoned  white  stock  till  the  bones 
are  easily  removed  (keeping  the  little  rib  bones) 
press  the  breasts ;  when  cold,  trim  and  cut 
into  cutlet  shapes,  point  the  rib  bones  and  in- 
sert into  the  pieces  of  lamb,  bread  and  fry  one- 
half  of  them,  roll  in  flour  and  saut6  with  butter 
the  other  half;  served  at  the  side  of  a  croQstade 
filled  with  garnish,  and  a  sauce  at  the  sides; 
the  saut6ed  one  should  be  brushed  with  light 
colored  glaze;  the  croflstade  may  be  filled  with 
Toulouse  garnish,  saut^ed  lamb  fries,  mace- 
doine of  vegetables,  green  peas,  asparagus  tips, 
button  mushrooms,  diced  lamb  sweetbreads  or 
brains,  etc. 

FRICASSEE  OF  LAMB— Breast  of  lamb  cut 
into  neat  pieces,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rolled  in  flour,  saut^ed  lightly  with  butter, 
taken  up  into  a  sautoir,  moistened  with  thin 
white  sauce,  simmered  till  done,  skimmed, 
sauce  then  thickened  with  a  liaison  of  egg 
yolks  and  cream,  seasoned  with  nutmeg  and 
cayenne;  served  with  a  garnish  of  green  peas, 
inverted  molds  of  dry  boiled  rice,  macedoine  of 
vegetables. 

CURRIED  LAMB— Cold  roast  lamb  cut  into 
neat  pieces  with  the  skin  removed;  curry  sauce 
made  from  lamb  or  mutton  stock,  simmered  in 
it  till  thoroughly  heated;  served  within  a  bor- 
der of  dry  boiled  rice. 

CURRIED  LAMB— Rack  of  lamb  cut  into  chops, 
trimmed,  saut^ed  with  minced  shallots,  taken 
up  into  a  sautoir,  sprinkled  with  flour  and 
curry  powder,  seasoned  with  salt,  lemon  juice 
and  a  dash  of  cayenne,  moistened  with  white 
stock,  simmered  with  a  sprig  of  green  mint  till 
done,  mint  then  removed;  served  within  a  bor- 
der of  rice,  potatoes,  green  peas,  button  mush- 
rooms, etc. 

STEWED  LAMB— Scrag  of  lamb  and  the  chops 
from  under  the  shoulder  cut  in  neat  pieces, 
simmered  in  white  stock  till  done,  sauce  made 
of  the  broth;  served  with  a  sprinkling  of  pars- 
ley and  a  garnish  of  vegetables. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK, 


CUTLETS  OF  LAMB— The  rack  of  lamb  cut 
into  chops  and  trimmed,  then  either  breaded 
after  seasoning,  saut^ed;  spread  on  one  side 
after  lightly  broiling  with  forcemeat  or  D'Uxel- 
les  dressing,  then  finished  in  oven;  served  with 
a  garnish  of  green  peas,  or  any  of  the  follow- 
ing: asparagus  points,  macMoine,  button  mush- 
rooms in  sauce,  Maitre  D'Hotel  butter,  print- 
aaifere,  Villeroi  sauce,  Godard  garnish,  slices 
of  stuffed  cucumber,  Toulouse  or  Financi^re 
garnish,  small  new  potatoes,  pur^e  of  mint, 
stufifed  tomatoes,  pur^e  of  peas  and  Bechamel 
sauce,  green  peas  and  caper  sauce,  peas  and 
asparagus  points  in  Bfechamel,  Julienne  vege- 
tables in  Madeira  sauce,  saut^  of  small  new 
carrots  cooked  whole  and  seasoned  with  lemon 


STEWED  LAMB,  GARNISHED— Preferably 
use  the  centre  cuts  of  the  breasts,  boil  them 
with  a  bunch  of  green  mint  in  seasoned  white 
stock;  when  done,  taken  up  and  the  bones  re- 
moved, placed  in  a  colander  and  washed  with 
hot  water  to  remove  any  scum;  white  sauce 
made  from  the  broth,  seasoned  with  salt,  red 
pepper,  lemon  juice  and  nutmeg;  when  done, 
strained  over  the  washed  Iamb  in  a  sautoir, 
simmer,  skim;  serve  sprinkled  with  parsley 
dust  and  garnished  with  small  new  potatoes  of 
even  size,  green  peas,  asparagus  points,  mush- 
rooms sautes,  small  stuffed  tomatoes,  small  rice 
timbales,  forcemeat  balls,  a  jardiniere  of  vege- 
tables, mixed  haricots,  potato  croquettes, 
French  beans,  etc. 


juice,  sugar  and  chopped  parsley,  puree  of  peas   LAMB'S  FRIES— The  testicles  blanched    and 


and  the  saut^ed  cutlets  dipped  in  glaze,  the 
cutlets  larded,  dipped  in  Perigord  sauce,  then 
breaded  and  fried;  served  with  truffle  sauce, 
Italian  style  i.  e.  saute-jd  in  butter  just  enough 
to  set  them,  dipped  in  Italian  sauce  thickened 
with  Parmesan  cheese,  when  cooled,  breaded 
and  fried;  served  with  Italian  sauce;  they  may 
also  be  first  set  by  lightly  saut^eing,  then  dip- 
ping into  appropriate  lamb  sauces,  cooling, 
breading,  frying  and  serving  with  a  sauce  the 
same  as  they  were  coated  with. 

EMINCE  OF  LAMB— Cold  leg  or  shoulder  of 
lamb  cut  in  thin  slices,  then  again  into  circles 
with  a  large  column  cutter,  reheated  with  but- 
ter over  a  quick  fire,  seasoned  with  salt,  pep- 
per and  powdered  mint,  then  drained;  into  the 
butter  is  then  placed  some  minced  shallots; 
when  lightly  browned,  flour  added  to  form  a 
roux,  moistened  with  mutton  broth,  seasoned 
with  salt,  nutmeg,  pepper,  herbs  and  a  dash  of 
Worcestershire  sauce,  boiled  five  minutes,  then 
strained  over  the  lamb,  which  simmer  for  fif- 
teen minutes;  served  on  toast. 

HASHED  LAMB  WITH  POACHED  EGG— 
Roast  lamb  trimmings  chopped  fine  and  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper  and  finely  chopped 
green  mint,  moistened  with  thickened  roast 
lamb  gravy,  fetched  to  the  simmering  point; 
served  on  a  slice  of  toast,  garnished  with  tri- 
angles of  buttered  toast  on  which  is  a  trimmed 
poached  egg. 

RAGOUT  OF  LAMB— The  breast,  chops  under 


trimmed,  cut  in  halves,  skinned,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice,  rolled  in 
flour,  then  breaded  and  fried;  served  with 
tomato,  Bearnaise,  remoulade  and  trianon 
sauces,  or  on  a  bed  of  mashed  potatoes  and 
flanked  with  peas,  flageolets,  etc.  May  also  be 
broiled  and  served  on  toast  with  MS.itre 
D'Hotel  butter,  tartar  or  Bearnaise  sauces,  also 
fricasseed  and  served  with  a  garnish  suitable 
to  sweetbreads. 

SCALLOPS  OF  LAMB  WITH  RICE— Take 
cold  lamb  and  cut  into  pieces  the  size  of  half 
dollars,  simmer  them  in  V61out6  sauce  seas- 
oned with  a  little  nutmeg.  To  serve:  arrange 
some  hot  boiled  rice  grains  around  the  edge  of 
a  platter,  place  the  lamb  in  the  centre  and 
sprinkle  with  parsley  dust,  garnish  the  rice 
with  scallops  of  red  tongue  reheated  with  a  lit- 
tle butter. 

LAMB  SWEETBREADS  IN  CASES— Cooked 
lamb  sweetbreads  cut  in  dice  two- thirds,  diced 
mushrooms  one-third,  mixed,  simmered  in 
thick  V^lout^  sauce,  filled  into  buttered  paper 
cases  or  croustades,  sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs, 
browned  in  a  quick  oven  and  served. 

LASAGNES— Name  of  an  Italian  paste  in  the 
form  of  yellow  ribbon,  often  used  as  noodles  in 
soups,  garnishes,  etc. 

LEEK — A  plant  of  the  onion  species  having  a 
non-bulbous  root  and  flat  broad  leaves;  in  fla- 
vor across  between  the  onion  and  garlic;  very 
valuable  as  a  soup  stock  flavoring. 


the  shoulder,   and  the  scrag,   neatly  cut   and       _      __   ^  ^^„^     „ 

trimmed,  fried  a  light  color  with  butter,  taken    BOILED   LEEKS-Young  leeks   tnmraed    and 


up,  very  small  whole  onions  then  fried  in  the 
butter,  taken  up  and  added  to  the  lamb,  flour 
then  added  to  the  butter  to  form  a  roux,  moist- 
tened  with  white  stock,  seasoned  with  salt,  pep- 
per, pot  herbs  and  a  crushed  clove  of  garlic, 
boiled,  skimmed,  strained  over  the  lamb  and 
onions,  simmer  till  done;  served  with  a  border 
of  fancy  vegetables,  macMoine,  mushroom 
sautes,  green  peas,  flageolets,  new  lima  beans, 
Parisienne  potatoes,  small  stuffed  tomatoes,  etc. 


washed,  tied  in  small  bundles  like  asparagus, 
cooked  till  tender  in  boiling  salted  water,  taken 
up  and  drained;  served  on  toast  with  melted 
butter.  Bechamel  sauce  or  meat  gravy. 
LEEK  SOUP,  SCOTCH  STYLE-Leeks  trimmed 
and  washed,  cut  into  pieces  an  inch  and  a  half 
long,  boiled  in  equal  parts  of  chicken  broth  and 
beef  stock,  oatmeal  added,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  simmered  till  done,  skimmed,  fin- 
ished with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


LEMONS— This  country  consumes  in  a  year 
about  500,000,000  lemons,  or  about  six  and  a 
half  lemons  for  each  man,  woman  and  child. 
The  California  lemons  are  very  good  ones,  and 
only  experts  can  tell  them  from  the  Mediter- 
ranean crop.  For  culinary  purposes  the  lemons 
of  Sicily,  i.  e.  from  Messina  and  Palermo,  are 
to  be  preferred  as  they  possess  a  much  better 
flavor.  A  box  of  lemons  averages  about  300 
each.  From  1,500,000  to  2,000,000  boxes  are 
sold  in  a  year  here.  It  is  predicted  that  the 
California  crop  will  soon  average  1,000,000 
boxes.  It  will  be  interesting  to  note  whether 
they  will  drive  out  any  or  all  of  the  foreign 
lemons.  They  are  used  by  the  catering  frater- 
nity in  large  quantities  for  flavoring  and  gar- 
nishing soups,  sauces,  salads,  meats,  fish,  pies, 
puddings,  cakes,  jellies,  extracts,  confectionery, 
mixing  with  drinks,  ices,  sorbets,   creams,  etc. 

LEMON  MARMALADE— Three  dozen  lemons, 
their  equal  weight  in  granulated  sugar,  lemons 
halved  and  their  juice  extracted  and  strained, 
the  rinds  boiled  till  tender  in  plenty  of  water, 
then  drained,  pith  scooped  out,  the  skins  then 
finely  shred,  the  juice  and  sugar  then  boiled  to 
a  syrup,  after  which  is  added  the  shredded 
skins,  boiling  continued  till  reduced  to  the 
marmalade  consistency;  used  for  steamed  roly- 
poly  puddings,  tartlettes,  layer  cakes,  etc.,  etc. 

LEMON  MINCEMEAT— Useful  for  mince  pies 
in  temperance  hotels  and  other  temperance 
functions.  Made  of  2  lbs.  of  lemons,  4  lbs.  of 
sour  apples,  2  lbs.  of  beef  suet,  4  lbs.  of  cur- 
rants, 2  lbs,  granulated  sugar,  %  lb.  each  of 
candied  citron  and  lemon  peel,  i^  ozs.  grated 
nutmeg,  >^  oz.  of  mace.  The  apples  cored  and 
minced,  the  candied  peels  finely  shred,  the 
suet  finely  chopped,  the  currants  washed, 
picked  and  drained,  the  lemons  pared  and  the 
juice  extracted,  the  rinds  boiled  tender,  then 


chine,  enough  of  it  worked  into  a  V^lout^  sauce 
to  give  a  pronounced  flavor;  used  for  boiled 
capons,  chickens,  turkey  and  fish. 

LEMON  TRIFLE— Small  glasses  with  a  piece 
of  sponge  cake  at  bottom,  spread  with  lemon 
marmalade,  the  glass  then  filled  up  high  with 
whipped  cream  that  is  sweetened  and  flavored 
with  nutmeg,  and  the  grated  rinds  and  juice  of 
lemons. 

LEMON  DUMPLINGS— 4  lbs  of  grated  bread- 
crumbs, 2  lbs.  of  finely  chopped  beef  suet,  2 
lbs.  of  powdered  sugar,  grated  rinds  and  juice 
of  eight  lemons;  rinds,  crumbs,  suet  and  sugar 
mixed  together  dry,  the  whole  then  bound  with 
the  lemon  juice  mixed  with  18  beaten  yolks  of 
eggs;  form  into  dumpling  shapes,  boil  in  a  cloth, 
or  steam  till  done  (steaming  is  best);  serve  with 
a  sweet  lemon  flavored  cream  sauce. 

LENTILS— Name  of  a  brownish  red,  flatted 
small  pea,  cultivated  on  the  European  conti- 
nent and  Asia  as  a  food;  it  is  a  most  nourishing 
article,  containing  about  twice  as  much  nourish- 
ment as  meat. 

LENTIL  SOUP — Lentils  boiled  till  done  in  sea- 
soned white  stock  lightly  thickened  with  roux, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  tomato  catsup; 
served  with  crofltons. 

LENTIL  SOUP— Lentils  boiled  till  tender  in 
white  stock,  with  leeks,  celery,  parsley  and  a 
piece  of  salt  pork;  when  done,  pork  removed, 
the  soup  lightly  thickened,  then  rubbed  through 
the  tamis;  served  with  crofltons. 

CREAM  OF  LENTILS— The  preceding  puree 
mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  V^lout^  sauce; 
served  with  crofltons. 

LETTUCE— One  of  the  best  of  salad  plants; 
seen  on  our  markets  in  three  shapes,  called  the 
cabbage  lettuce,  Cos  lettuce  and  Romaine  let- 
tuce. 


minced,  the  whole  then  thoroughly  mixed,  al-   t  TJi^rTTz-'Tr  oat  at»    ix?  u  u  j        •     j       j 

,        ,    '  ,  ,ur  -ujj    LETTUCE  SALAD — Well  washed,    wiped  and 


lowed  to  stand  a  week  before  using;  brandy  and 
port  wine  may  be  added  if  used  for  other  than 
temperance  people. 
LEMON  CREAM— Two  quarts  of  milk  brought 
to  the  boil  with  a  pound  and  a  half  of  sugar; 
grated  rinds  of  four  lemons  mixed  with  six 
ounces  of  sifted  flour,  then  made  into  a  smooth 
thickening  with  milk;  when  smooth,  poured  to 
the  boiling  milk  and  stirred  till  creamy,  then  is 
added  three   ounces  of  butter,  juice  of  the  lem- 


shred  lettuce  leaves  sprinkled  and  tossed  with 

French  dressing. 
LETTUCE  AND  ONION  SALAD— Same  as  the 

preceding,   adding  very    finely    shred    spring 

onions. 
LETTUCE  SALAD— Hearts  of  cabbage  lettuces 

washed  and  wiped  dry,  sprinkled  with  chopped 

chives,  chervil  and  tarragon  leaves,  then  dashed 

with  a  dressing  of  oil,  vinegar,  salt  and  pepper. 


ons  and  the  yolks  of  12  beaten  eggs,  continue   LETTUCE    AND    TOMATO    SALAD  —  Well 


stirring  till  of  a  custard  consistency;  then  re- 
move and  use  for  filling  pufis,  eclairs,  lemon 
cream  pies,  tartlettes,  spreading  layer  cakes, 
etc. 

LEMON  SOUP— A  rich  cream  of  chicken  soup 
nicely  flavored  with  the  grated  rinds  and  juice 
of  lemons. 

LEMON  SAUCE— Lemons  with  seeds  removed 
finely  minced  or  passed  through  a  mincing  ma- 


washed,  wiped  and  shred  lettuce  tossed  with 
French  dressing,  garnished  with  peeled  and 
sliced  tomatoes  having  a  drop  of  Ravigote 
sauce  on  each. 
LETTUCE  AND  TOMATO  SALAD— Well 
washed,  wiped  and  shred  lettuce  tossed  lightly 
with  Remoulade  sauce,  add  minced  capers, 
garnish  with  sliced  peeled  tomatoes  sptinkled 
with  French  dressing. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


xcx 


LETTUCE  AND  CUCUMBER  SALAD— Well 
washed,  wiped  and  broken  lettuce  leaves  tossed 
and  glistened  with  a  dressing  composed  of  2 
tablespoons  of  olive  oil  well  beaten  with  3 
whole  eggs,  then  add  a  dessert  spoonful  of  rich 
cream  and  one  of  tarragon  vinegar;  served 
garnished  with  very  thin  slices  of  cucumber 
sprinkled  with  French  dressing. 

BAKED  STUFFED  LETTUCE  —  Trimmed, 
washed  and  drained  lettuces,  parboiled  a  few 
minutes,  the  insides  then  filled  with  sausage 
meat,  the  heads  tied,  arranged  in  a  shallow 
sautoir,  moistened  with  white  stock  and  Ma- 
deira sauce,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  cov- 
ered with  buttered  paper,  placed  in  oven  and 
cooked  till  done,  about  20  minutes;  served  with 
the  string  removed  and  the  sauce  poured  over. 

LIMES— A  small  kind  of  lemon,  used  in  the  bars 
for  Rickeys  and  other  drinks;  served  with 
oysters  in  preference  to  lemons,  also  with  veal 
cutlets,  fried  soles,  smelts  and  bass.  At  Mont- 
serrat  the  limes  are  cut  in  halves,  the  juice  ex- 
tracted and  bottled,  then  supplied  to  most  ships 
at  sea  as  a  preventive  of  scurvy,  British  ships 
using  it  by  law,  so  that  an  English  ship  is 
known  amongst  sailors  as  a  "Limejuicer." 

LIVER — For  the  following  recipes  either  sheep's, 
lamb's,  calf's,  pig's  or  ox  liver  will  do. 

RAGOUT  OF  LIVER— Wash  and  dry  a  liver, 
steam  it  till  quite  tender,  then  cut  it  in  slices, 
add  it  to  a  rich  brown  sauce  or  gravy,  stew  it 
till  thoroughly  heated  through;  served  garnished 
with  slices  of  lemon  and  hard  boiled  eggs. 

FRIED  LIVER  WITH  ONIONS— Liver  washed 
and  wiped  dry,  cut  in  slices,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour,  fried  in  bacon 
fat;  served  with  sliced  onions  that  have  been 
fried,  drained  and  lightly  moistened  with  brown 
sauce. 

SAUTfi  OF  LIVER— Thin  slices  of  liver  and 
bacon,  the  bacon  fried  not  crisp,  the  liver 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled  in  flour 
and  lightly  fried  in  the  bacon  fat,  then  taken 
up  and  placed  with  the  bacon  in  a  sautoir; 
lightly  fry  then  a  little  minced  onion  in  the 
bacon  fat,  add  flour,  stir,  moisten  with  stock, 
boil  up,  skim,  pour  it  to  the  liver  and  bacon, 
simmer  till  done;  served  sprinkled  with  chopped 
parsley,  garnished  with  crofltons. 

LIVER  AND  SALT  PORK— Same  as  the  pre- 
ceding, substituting  salt  pork  for  the  bacon. 

LIVER  PUDDING— Liver  and  bacon  cut  in 
squares,  stewed  in  brown  gravy,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  then  filled  into  pudding  molds 
lined  with  paste,  covered,  cloth  tied  over, 
boiled  or  steamed  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  serve. 

CURRIED  LIVER  WITH  FORCEMEAT— 
Equal  quantities  of  udder  and  liver  minced, 
then  pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  sieve, 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  sweet  herbs  and  a 


little  sifted  breadcrumbs,  add  an  egg  or  two; 
when  thoroughly  mixed,  form  into  balls,  rolled 
into  sifted  breadcrumbs,  fried  brown,  then 
simmered  in  curry  sauce  till  done  through; 
served  with  the  sauce  and  garnished  with  slices 
of  broiled  liver  dipped  in  MSitre  d'Hotel  sauce. 

LOBSTER  SALAD— Lobster  meat  with  lettuce 
or  celery  and  mayonnaise,  arranged  on  a  disb 
and  decorated  with  shapes  of  beet  root,  capers, 
pickles,  whites  of  eggs  and  quartered  hard 
boiled  eggs. 

MIROTON  OF  LOBSTER— Slices  of  lobster 
meat,  half  of  them  dipped  in  cold  white  sauce, 
the  other  half  in  a  cold  cardinal  sauce,  served 
on  a  bed  of  shred  lettuce  with  mayonnaise 
down  the  centre. 

MAYONNAISE  OF  LOBSTER-Lobsters  (hens) 
boiled  in  court-bouillon,  when  cold,  the  tail 
and  claw  meat  sliced  into  a  dish,  the  creamy 
part  of  the  head  with  the  coral  mixed  with  yolks 
of  eggs,  mustard,  oil  and  lemon  juice,  then 
worked  to  form  a  mayonnaise,  when  done, 
mixed  with  the  lobster  meat;  served  garnished 
with  shred  lettuce. 

LOBSTER  IN  ASPIC  CREAM— Also  called 
"Mazarins  of  Lobster".  Lobster  meat  in  slices, 
molds  thinly  lined  with  aspic  and  decorated 
with  coral,  truffles  and  egg  whites.  Aspic 
cream  made  by  taking  a  pint  of  light  colored 
aspic  jelly,  melt  it  and  place  in  a  bowl  sur- 
rounded with  broken  ice,  add  to  it  a  short  half 
cup  of  white  wine  vinegar,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  granulated  sugar,  a  level  teaspoon  of  dry 
mustard,  two  teaspoons  of  salt  and  a  seasoning 
of  red  pepper,  beat  with  a  whisk,  and  as  soon 
as  it  thickens  add  oil  and  vinegar  alternately,  a 
little  at  a  time  till  of  a  mayonnaise  consistency, 
finish  with  a  dash  of  lemon  juice;  when  ready, 
add  the  lobster  meat,  fill  into  the  decorated 
molds,  and  when  finally  set,  wipe  the  mold  with 
a  hot  cloth,  turn  out  on  the  dish,  decorate  with 
green  stuff  and  serve. 

LOBSTER  CHEESE— Same  as  the  preceding, 
but  the  molds  not  decorated  (larger  molds); 
when  serving,  the  meat  cut  in  slices  like  bead 
cheese. 

DEVILLED  LOBSTER— The  lobster  boiled, 
cooled,  split  in  halves,  all  meat  taken  from  the 
shells  without  breaking  them,  the  inside  of  shell 
then  brushed  with  olive  oil  or  butter.  Fry  some 
minced  shallots  with  the  brown  meat  of  the 
claws  in  butter,  add  little  white  sauce,  season 
with  salt,  red  pepper  and  Bengal  chutney;  when 
thick,  add  the  lobster  meat  cut  in  small  squares, 
then  fill  the  shells,  sprinkle  with  bread  crumbs 
and  melted  butter,  brown  off  in  a  brisk  oven 
and  serve  garnished  with  cress. 

SCALLOPED  LOBSTER— Also  called  "Lobster 
au  gratin".  Equal  quantities  of  lobster  meat 
and  button  mushrooms  cut  in  small  squares, 


I02 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


added  to  a  reduced  Bechamel  sauce,  with  lob- 
ster coral  or  lobster  butter  and  a  little  glaze, 
fill  into  lobster  shells  as  in  the  preceding,  finish 
off  and  serve  as  above. 

LOBSTER  CROQUETTES— Lobster  meat  and 
button  mushrooms  in  equal  quantities  cut  into 
very  small  dice,  measure  them,  and  for  each 
pint,  allow  a  pint  of  V^lout^  sauce;  boil  the 
sauce  till  reduced  one  third,  then  work  in  some 
lobster  butter  and  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and 
cream,  then  add  the  lobster  meat  and  mush- 
rooms, stir  thoroughly,  turn  out  into  a  buttered 
pan,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  oiled  paper;  when 
cold  and  firm,  shape  into  croquettes,  bread, 
fry;  serve  with  Perigueux,  Poivrade  or  tomato 
sauces. 

LOBSTER  CUTLETS— Same  as  the  preceding, 
forming  them  into  shape  to  imitate  a  mutton 
chop,  using  the  small  claws  to  imitate  bone 
handle. 

RISSOLES  OF  LOBSTER— Same  preparation 
as  for  croquettes,  but  instead  of  breading  them, 
they  are  rolled  into  paste  and  fried. 

LOBSTER  PATTIES— Lobster  meat  cut  in  dice, 
mixed  into  a  lobster  sauce,  patty  shells  filled 
with  it,  top  placed  on;  served  on  ornamented 
dish  paper. 

BOUCHfeES  OF  LOBSTER— Same  as  the  pre- 
ceding but  smaller,  (bouch^e  means  mouthful). 

STUFFED  LOBSTER— The  croquette  prepara- 
tion filled  into  lobster  shells,  covered  with 
sifted  crumbs,  basted  with  butter,  baked  brown 
and  served. 

STEWED  LOBSTER— Lobster  meat  simmered 
in  a  fiour  and  butter  sauce,  seasoned  with  vin- 
egar, mustard  and  red  pepper,  finished  with  a 
glass  of  sherry  wine;  served  on  very  hot  toast, 
garnished  with  lemon  slices. 

BROCHETTE  OF  LOBSTER— Slices  of  lobster 
meat  from  the  tail,  and  very  thin  slices  of  par- 
boiled bacon,  arranged  alternately  on  a  skewer, 
rolled  in  a  mixture  of  melted  butter,  seasoned 
with  Worcestershire  sauce,  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  broil,  carefully  turning  them;  served 
on  a  slice  of  very  hot  toast,  with  a  little  Mditre 
D'Hotel  butter. 

BROILED  LIVE  LOBSTER— At  least  that  is 
what  it  is  called,  but  the  lobster  is  dead  im- 
mediately the  head  is  split,  even  though  the 
flesh  may  quiver.  The  lobster  split,  the  un- 
eatable parts  removed,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  placed  within  a  wire  hinged  broiler, 
brushed  with  butter,  broiled;  served  with 
melted  butter  and  lemons. 

CURRIED  LOBSTER— Lobster  meat  made  hot 
in  a  good  curry  sauce  lightly  flavored  with 
anchovy  essence;  served  within  a  border  of  drj 
boiled  rice. 

LOBSTER  SANDWICH-Mash  some  cheese  and 
lobster  coral,  add  mustard,   pepper  and  salt  to 


taste,  mix  into  a  smooth  paste  with  tomato 
catsup,  place  between  thin  buttered  bread,  cut 
on  the  bias  and  serve  on  a  lettuce  leaf. 

LOBSTER  TOAST— Minced  lobster  meat  sea- 
soned with  salt  and  red  pepper,  then  moistened 
with  rich  cream,  made  thoroughly  hot  and 
served  on  buttered  toast. 

LOBSTER,  BORDELAISE— Lobster  meat  sau- 
t6ed  with  a  little  minced  onion,  moistened  with 
equal  quantities  of  Madeira  and  Chablis  wines, 
reduce  to  half  glaze,  then  add  equal  parts  of 
Espagnole  and  tomato  sauces,  bring  to  the  boil, 
finish  with  chopped  parsley  and  cayenne;  serve 
in  chafing  dish. 

LOBSTER  NEWBURG— Meat  of  two  lobsters 
cut  in  inch  pieces  with  some  sliced  truffles, 
saut^  in  butter  for  five  minutes,  then  add  a  half 
cup  of  Madeira  wine  and  reduce  to  one  half; 
beat  a  cupful  of  cream  with  five  egg  yolks,  add 
it  to  the  lobster,  shuffle  about  till  thick;  serve 
in  a  chafing  dish. 

SALPICON  OF  LOBSTER— Diced  lobster  meat, 
truffles  and  mushrooms  added  to  a  reduced 
Bfechamel  sauce;  served  either  in  paper  cases 
or  fancy  croflstades. 

BAKED  LOBSTER  IN  SHELL— Lobster  meat 
cut  into  very  small  dice,  seasoned  with  salt,  red 
pepper,  mustard,  onion  juice,  Worcestershire 
sauce,  chopped  parsley  and  Bechamel  sauce, 
filled  into  lobster  shells,  covered  with  bread- 
crumbs, basted  with  butter,  baked  brown  and 
served. 

LOBSTER  WITH  TOMATOES— Small  pieces 
of  lobster  in  Bechamel  sauce,  small  tomatoes 
stuffed  with  it,  placed  inverted  in  patty  pans, 
steamed;  served  hot  with  lobster  sauce  or  cold 
with  aspic  jelly,  or  masked  with  aspic  mayon- 
naise. 

LOBSTER  OMELET— Lobster  meat  in  lobster 
sauce,  enclosed  within  an  omelet;  served  with 
Aurora  sauce  down  the  sides. 

ESCALLOPED  LOBSTER— Lobster  meat  cut 
in  dice  made  hot  in  either  Normande  or  Hollan- 
daise  sauces,  filled  into  scallop  shells  or  oval 
dishes,  strewn  with  breadcrumbs  and  melted 
butter,  browned  off  and  served. 

FRICASSEE  OF  LOBSTER— Lobster  meat  cut 
in  slices,  made  hot  in  a  rich  V^lout^  sauce, 
finished  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  a  dash 
of  lemon  juice;  served  garnished  with  strips  of 
buttered  toast  or  toasted  crackers. 

LOBSTER  AND  OYSTER  PIE— Individual  pies 
for  restaurants  and  clubs;  blanched  oysters  and 
lobster  meat  in  equal  quantities,  a  thick  lobster 
sauce  thinned  a  little  with  the  oyster  liquor, 
individual  pie  dishes  with  the  lobster  and 
oysters,  moistened  with  the  sauce,  strewn  with 
chopped  parsley,  covered  with  puff  paste,  egg 
washed  and  baked,  (A  RATTLING  GOOD 
SELLING  DISH). 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


103 


LOBSTER  SOUP— Equal  parts  of  fish  broth  and 
white  stock  thickened  with  roux.  boiled  up  and 
skimmed,  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper  and 
Harvey  sauce,  into  the  soup  tureen  place  lob- 
ster meat  cut  in  dice  together  with  the  claws 
and  upper  shell  of  the  lobsters  that  have  been 
pounded  and  rubbed  through  a  fine  sieve,  add 
the  strained  soup  with  a  glass  of  sherry  wine; 
serve  with  croutons. 

LOBSTER  SOUP,  CREOLE  STYLE— Court- 
bouillon  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  Creole 
sauce,  boiled  and  skimmed,  the  soup  tureen  to 
contain  diced  lobster  meat,  boiled  rice,  and  a 
little  chopped  green  mint,  add  the  soup  and 
serve. 

LOBSTER  SOUP,  MARINER'S  STYLE-Court- 
bouillon  seasoned  with  carrot,  turnip,  onion, 
celery  and  anchovy  essence,  thickened  with 
corn  starch,  simmered  till  clear,  soup  tureen  to 
contain  lobster  meat,  lobster  butter,  small 
claws,  small  boiled  onions,  soup  poured  to  it 
with  a  little  sherry  wine  and  served. 

LOBSTER  MULLIGATAWNEY-Make  amulli- 
gatawney  soup  from  court-bouillon,  soup  tureen 
to  contain  lobster  meat  and  a  little  dry  boiled 
rice,  soup  poured  to  it  and  served. 

BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER— Meat  of  fresh  boiled 
lobsters  cut  in  dice,  the  tough  parts  with  the 
shells  and  claws  boiled  for  20  minutes,  the 
coral  dried  in  a  slow  oven,  little  rice  boiled  in 
fish  broth,  make  a  thin  Bfechamel  sauce  from 
fish  broth,  add  the  liquor  from  the  shells, 
then  the  rice  and  coral,  rub  the  whole  through 
a  tamis,  bring  to  the  boil  again  and  skim,  then 
pour  it  to  the  diced  lobster  meat;  serve  with 
lobster  quenelles  in  each  plate. 

BISQUE  OF  LOBSTER— Pieces  of  ham,  salt 
pork,  parsley,  sweet  herbs,  onions,  lobster 
meat  and  shells  fried  together  with  butter,  lit- 
tle flour  then  added,  moistened  with  fish  broth, 
boiled  an  hour,  then  rice  added  and  boiled  till 
tender,  the  whole  then  rubbed  through  a  tamis, 
seasoned,  finished  with  sherry  wine;  served 
with  croutons. 

LOCUSTS — A  curious  sight  in  the  market  place 
of  FEZ  is  the  daily  arrival  of  wagon  loads  of 
locusts.  With  the  Moors  who  inhabit  this  part 
of  North  Africa,  locusts  form  a  regular  article 
of  food;  they  are  eaten  in  almost  every  style, 
pickled,  salted,  dried  or  smoked,  but  never  raw. 
The  negroes  on  the  northern  coast  of  Africa 
show  a  great  partiality  for  locusts  and  eat  from 
200  to  300  at  a  sitting.  They  remove  heaid, 
wings  and  legs,  and  boil  them  for  half  an  hour 
in  water,  take  out  and  drain,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  then  fry  with  vinegar. 

MACARONI — Name  of  a  preparation  of  wheat 
flour  and  water,  that  which  is  of  home  manu- 
facture being  equally  as  good  in  grades  as  the 
imported. 


MACARONI.  ITALIAN  S  T  Y  L  E —Macaroni 
broken  into  three-inch  lengths  and  put  to  boil 
with  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  a  pat  or  two  of 
butter;  when  done,  turned  into  a  colander  and 
drained  dry ;  meantime  heat  some  tomato  sauce 
and  work  into  it  a  little  butter  and  glaze.  Into 
a  buttered  pan  place  a  layer  of  the  macaroni, 
moisten  it  with  the  sauce,  then  strew  with 
Parmesan  cheese,  renew  this  operation  till  pan 
is  full,  strew  the  top  plentifully  with  cheese, 
bake  for  half  an  hour  in  medium  oven  and 
serve  hot. 

MACARONI  AND  CHEESE  (PLAIN)— Break 
the  macaroni  and  boil  in  salted  water  with  a 
pat  of  butter  till  done,  then  drain,  place  back 
into  the  sautoir  and  add  to  it  a  cupful  each  of 
melted  butter,  Parmesan  cheese,  grated  Swiss 
cheese,  and  cream,  toss  it  well  over  a  quick 
fire;  serve  garnished  with  fancy  croutons. 

BAKED  MACARONI  AND  CHEESE— Also 
called  "macaroni  au  gratin";  the  preceding 
when  prepared,  turned  into  a  buttered  pan, 
strewn  with  equal  parts  of  grated  cheese  and 
breadcrumbs,  sprinkled  with  melted  butter, 
baked  a  delicate  brown  and  served. 

MACARONI  (as  the  Monks  like  it)— Macaroni 
broken,  boiled  and  drained,  then  mixed  with  a 
rich  puree  of  pounded  anchovies  and  mush- 
rooms. 

MACARONI  AND  CHEESE  (FRENCH 
STYLE) — Broken  lengths  of  macaroni  boiled 
20  minutes,  drained,  turned  into  a  buttered 
pan;  mix  into  each  pound  half  a  cup  of  melted 
butter  and  a  cupful  of  coarsely  chopped  cheese, 
to  this  add  a  quart  of  liaison  made  of  water,  4 
eggs  and  a  little  flour,  place  in  a  medium  oven 
for  ten  minutes,  then  pour  over  all,  without 
stirring,  a  pint  and  half  of  Bechamel  parsley 
sauce,  bake  brown  and  serve. 

MACARONI  AND  TOMATOES  —  Macaroni 
broken,  boiled  and  drained;  returned  to  sau- 
toir, and  to  each  pound  of  macaroni  add  half  a 
pint  each  of  minced  cheese,  brown  sauce,  and 
roast  meat  gravy,  also  a  pint  of  thick  stewed 
tomatoes;  when  thoroughly  reheated  it  is  ready 
to  serve;  or  it  may  be  turned  into  a  buttered 
pan,  sprinkled  with  cheese  and  simmered  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  medium  oven. 

MACARONI  AND  OYSTERS,  MILAN  STYLE 
— Macaroni  broken,  boiled  and  drained,  placed 
in  layers  in  buttered  pan,  the  top  of  each  layer 
covered  with  drained  raw  oysters,  a  sprinkling 
of  melted  butter,  pepper  and  salt;  when  full, 
the  whole  moistened  with  a  thin  cream  sauce, 
baked  till  set.  Cooked  and  served  in  individual 
dishes  this  is  a  good  seller  in  clubs  and  res- 
taurants. 

MACARONI,  CREOLE  STYLE— A  pound  of 
macaroni  broken,  boiled  and  drained,  one  large 
onion  minced  with  two  cloves  of  garlic  and 
fried  in  oil;  when  of  a  pale  brown,  add  two 


I04^ 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


minced   red   peppers   and   a  quart  of   tomato 
sauce,    then   add   the   macaroni,    simmer  and 
serve. 
MACARONI.    GENOISE    STYLE  — Macaroni 
broken,    boiled  and   drained,    then   kept  hot. 


drained;  buttered  mold,  macaroni  coiled  close 
all  round  the  inside,  filled  with  a  *orcemeat  of 
chicken,  then  steamed  till  firmly  set,  turned 
out;  served  with  white  Italian  sauce  poured 
over. 


Equal  parts  of  tomato  and  Espagnole  sauces    MACARONI    WITH    SAUSAGES  —  Macaroni 


mixed  and  fetched  to  the  boil;  served,  sauce  in 
bottom  of  shallow  dish,  macaroni  on  it,  this 
then  strewn  with  Parmesan  cheese. 
TIMBALES  OF  MACARONI— Macaroni  boiled 
and  drained,  then  cut  into  inch  lengths,  sea- 
soned with  Parmesan  cheese,  pepper  and  salt; 
to  each  pound  of  the  macaroni  is  then  added  a  MACARONI  CROQUETTES— Macaroni  boiled 
half  pint   each   of  sliced   button  mushrooms,        and  drained,  cut  in  small  pieces,    returned  to 


broken,  boiled  and  drained;  pork  sausages 
boiled,  skinned  and  cut  into  slices;  buttered 
pan,  layer  of  macaroni,  then  sausages,  strewn 
with  grated  cheese,  repeat  till  full,  then  a  rich 
veal  gravy  poured  over,  baked  half  an  hour  in 
a  medium  oven,  then  served. 


braised  chicken  livers  and  smoked  tongue,  a 
truffle  or  two,  the  whole  mixed  and  slightly 
moistened  with  Italian  sauce.  Timbale  molds 
butte'-ed,  coated  with  cracker  meal,  filled  with 
the  mixture,  brushed  with  butter,  baked  brown, 
turned  out;  served,  a  little  Spanish  sauce  on 
dish,  timbale  in  centre,  the  top  piled  high  with 
Parmesan  cheese.  ■ 

MACARONI  WITH  LOBSTER  BUTTER— 
Macaroni  broken,  boiled  and  drained,  a  deep 
pan  buttered,  layer  of  macaroni,  on  it  is  spread 
lobster  butter,  that  again  strewn  with  Par- 
mesan, then  a  little  Bechamel  sauce,  repeat  till 
pan  is  full,  then  place  in  oven  and  thoroughly 
heat  without  browning;  served  in  portions 
decorated  with  slices  of  lobster  meat  alternated 
with  slices  of  truffle. 

BUTTERED  MACARONI— Macaroni  broken, 
boiled  and  drained;  while  still  hot,  each  por- 
tion served  by  putting  a  spoonful  of  melted 
butter  in  oval  dish,  then  the  macaroni,   tossed 


sautoir,  to  which  is  then  added  grated  ham  and 
tongue,  minced  mushrooms  and  truffles,  Parm- 
esan cheese  and  a  little  thick  Velout^  sauce; 
reheat  thoroughly,  turn  into  a  buttered  pan  2 
or  3  inches  deep,  cover  with  buttered  paper  and 
allow  to  set  firm;  then  stamp  out  with  the  larg- 
est sized  column  cutter,  the  columns  then 
rolled  in  Parmesan  cheese,  then  breaded,  fried 
and  served  with  Trianon  sauce  composed  of 
equal  parts  of  Bearnaise  and  reduced  tomato 
sauces,  carefully  mixed  together. 
MACARONI  PUDDING— Macaroni  broken, 
boiled  with  sweetened  milk,  grated  Jemon  rind 
and  a  stick  of  cinnamon;  when  done  drained, 
the  milk  returned  to  the  fire,  brought  to  the 
boil,  thickened  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks, 
cream  and  a  little  corn  starch;  when  to  cus- 
tard thickness,  removed,  seasoned  with  nutmeg; 
macaroni  in  deep  buttered  pan  spread  with 
preserves  or  marmalade,  the  custard  poured 
over,  baked  and  served. 


in   the   butter  and  strewn  while  tossing  with    MACARONI  WITH  HAM— Take  cold  ham  trim- 

mmgs,  put  through  a  mincing  machine,   use  it 
instead  of  cheese,  and  bake,  au  gratin. 
MACARONI  CREAMED  WITH  EGGS— Mac- 
aroni broken,  boiled  and  drained,   then  tossed 


Parmesan  cheese. 

MACARONI  WITH  FISH  FLAKES— Proceed 
as  in  recipe  given  for  macaroni  and  oysters; 
substituting  either  flakes  of  boiled  fresh  cod- 
fish, redsnapper,  salmon,  salmon  trout,  white- 
fish  or  pike  for  the  oysters. 

MACARONI  WITH  LAMB  KIDNEYS— Maca- 
roni broken,  boiled  and  drained;  lamb  kidneys 
sliced  and  saut^ed  with  butter;  buttered  pan, 
layer  of  macaroni,  on  it,  a  layer  of  the  kidneys, 
moisten  with  tomato  sauce,  repeat  till  pan  is 
full,  the  top  then  covered  with  slices  of  hard 
boiled  eggs,  these  thickly  strewn  with  Parme- 
san cheese,  placed  in  oven  till  of  a  delicate 
brown,  then  served. 

MACARONI  WITH  SPINACH  PUR6E— Mac- 
aroni broken,  boiled  and  drained;  spinach  well 
washed,  boiled,  drained,  rubbed  through  sieve, 
moistened  with  rich  roast  veal  gravy;  buttered 
pan,  layer  of  macaroni,  then  spinach;  strew 
with  Parmesan,  repeat  till  full,  then  bake  half 
an  hour  in  a  medium  oven,  and  serve. 


over  a  quick  fire  with  butter;  meantime  make 
some  scrambled  eggs  with  cream,  equal  the 
amount  of  eggs  with  Parmesan  cheese,  add  both 
to  the  hot  macaroni,  keep  hot  and  serve  as 
called,  (do  not  let  it  boil). 

MACARONI  WITH  TOMATO  PUR6E— Mac- 
aroni broken,  boiled  and  drained;  tomato 
puree  thick,  containing  a  little  grated  ham  and 
a  slight  flavor  of  garlic,  layers  of  each  strewn 
with  Parmesan  in  buttered  pan  till  full,  bake 
and  serve. 

MACARONI  SOUP— Macaroni  broken,  boiled 
and  drained,  add  to  a  rich  beef  broth,  or  in 
tomato  soup,  or  chicken  broth,  etc.  When 
turning  the  soup  into  the  tureen  on  steam  table, 
place  some  Parmesan  cheese  in  the  bottom,  or 
else  serve  a  butter  chip  full  with  each  portion, 
(club  or  restaurant  service). 


TIMBALE   OF   MACARONI    AND    FORCE-   CREAMED  MACARONI— Macaroni  b  r  oken. 
MEAT  —  Macaroni    boiled    in    full    lengths,        boiled  and  drained,  returned  to  sautoir,  moist- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK 


ened  with  V^lout^  sauce;  served  strewn  with 
Parmesan  and  garnished  with  puff  paste  croil- 
tons  (made  in  leaf  shape  from  trimmings). 

MACE — The  inner  shell  that  covers  the  nutmeg; 
used  in  its  blade  form  as  a  flavoring  to  soups 
and  sauces;  in  its  ground  or  powdered  form, 
as  a  flavoring  to  sweet  sauces,  puddings,  mince- 
meats, cakes,  etc. 

MACEDOINE— A  French  term  used  to  indicate 
a  mixture  of  fancy  cut  vegetables  or  fruits;  the 
former  either  plain  or  mixed  with  sauce  is  used 
in  soups  or  as  a  garnish,  the  latter  generally  in 
sweet  jellies. 

MACKEREL — A  fine  salt  water  fish  enjoyed  by 
most  people;  it  should  not  be  washed,  wipe  it 
dry  with  a  clean  cloth,  cut  off  the  fillets,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  score  the  skin  lightly, 
squeeze  a  little  lemon  juice  on  the  flesh,  broil 
it  skin  side  down  first,  serve  it  with  mditre  d' 
hotel  butter,  garnish  with  Julienne  potatoes, 
and  you  have  the  dish  of  an  epicure. 

BOILED  MACKEREL— Draw  and  wipe  the 
fish,  boil  it  plain  in  salted  water;  serve  with 
melted  butter  separate,  garnish  with  Hollan- 
daise  potatoes  and  half  a  lemon. 

BOILED  MACKEREL— Head  removed,  cut  in 
halves  across,  drawn,  wiped,  boiled  in  sea- 
soned fish  broth  containing  an  onion,  bunch  of 
parsley  and  a  little  Chablis  wine;  when  done 
(about  12  minutes)  serve  either  with  parsley, 
caper,  olive,  drawn  butter  or  Ravigote  sauces. 

BUTTERED  MACKEREL— Fillets  of  mackerel 
wiped  dry,  placed  into  a  sauce  made  of  melted 
butter  seasoned  with  anchovy  essence,  a  little 
mustard,  lemon  juice,  ground  mace  and  red 
pepper,  stew  slowly  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
serve. 

BROILED  STUFFED  MACKEREL— Draw  the 
fish  and  wipe  dry;  make  the  stuffing  of  cold  but- 
ter with  a  very  little  fresh  grated  bread  crumbs, 
chopped  chives  and  shallots,  lemon  juice,  salt 
and  pepper,  stuff  the  opening  where  drawn,  roll 
in  buttered  paper,  tie  the  ends,  broil  slowly  till 
done,  remove  the  paper;  serve  at  once  garnished 
with  green  stuff  and  lemon. 

BAKED  FILLETS  OF  MACKEREL— The  fish 
wiped  and  filleted,  the  fillets  baked  and  basted 
with  mSitre  d'  hotel  butter;  served  with  a 
brown  fish  sauce  centaining  chopped  chervil, 
tarragon,  minced  truflBe  peelings  and  a  flavor- 
ing of  port  wine. 

FRIED  MACKEREL,  BUTTER  SAUCE— Fil- 
lets of  mackerel  wiped,  seasoned  with  lenion 
juice,  salt  and  red  pepper,  dipped  in  flour, 
then  into  beaten  eggs,  fried  in  hot  fat;  served 
with  lemon  butter  sauce,  garnished  with  Parisi- 
enne  potatoes. 

FILLETS  OF  MACKEREL,  SAUTfiS— The 
fillets  wiped  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper  and 
lemon  juice,  rolled  in  flour,  saut^ed  with  but- 


105 

ter;  served  with  a  brown  fish  sauce  at  the  sides, 
garnished  with  green  stuff  and  lemon. 
SOUSED   MACKEREL  — Heads  and  tails  re- 
moved, the  fish  drawn  and  wiped,   arranged  in 
pan  with  whole  peppers,  allspice,  bay  leaves 
and  cloves,  cover  them  with  equal  quantities  of 
white  wine  vinegar  and  water,  bake  slowly  for 
one  hour,  serve  cold,  either  plain  or  with  Rav- 
igote sauce. 
BAKED  STUFFED  FILLETS  OF  MACKEREL 
— Split,  bone  and  wipe  the  fish,   season  with 
salt  and  pepper,   quickly  set  the  cut  side  by 
lightly  frying  in  butter;  make  the  stuffing  of 
fresh  grated  breadcrumbs  moistened  with  Alle- 
mande  sauce  and  seasoned  with  minced  fried 
shallots,  chopped  parsley,  anchovy  essence  and 
Harvey's  sauce;  spread  it  on  the   fried  side, 
smooth,    arrange    on   buttered  baking    sheet, 
bake;  serve  garnished  with  potato  croquettes 
and  lemon. 
BOILED  SALT  MACKEREL— No.   i  mess  are 
the  best;  soak  them  overnight  in  cold  water,  then 
rinse  in  clear  running  water,  then  lay  them  for 
an  hour  in  milk,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water,  when 
done,  serve  with  melted  butter,  m^itre  d'hotel, 
mustard,  or  parsley  sauces. 
BROILED    SALT    MACKEREL— Extract    the 
salt  as  in  the  preceding,   then  wipe  dry  after 
taking  them  out  of  the  milk,   season  with  pep- 
per, brush  with  butter,  broil;  serve  with  melted 
butter,  garnished  with  parsley  and  lemon. 
MADEIRA — Name  of  a  wine.     Sauces,  cakes, 
ices  and  jellies  so  named  are  supposed  to  con- 
tain some  of  it,  which  rarely  happens,  sherry 
and  Marsala  usually  being  substituted. 
MADELINES— Name  given  to  small  cakes  baked 
in  fancy  patty  pans,  made  of  a  pound  mixture, 
viz:  a  pound  each  of  butter,  sugar,  sifted  flour, 
eggs  (ten)  and  a  wine  glass  of  cognac;  some 
also  add  sultana  raisins,  currants  and  candied 
peels. 
MAITRE  D'HOTEL— Name  applied  to  a  sauce 
and  a  garnish  (the  literal  meaning  of  the  name 
is  a  steward).  The  sauce  is  composed  of  melted 
butter,  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice,   and 
is  used  chiefly  with  broiled  meat  and  fish;  quar- 
tered boiled  potatoes  in  the  sauce  is  the  garnish 
for  boiled  fish;  and  quartered  lemons  with  the 
meat  is  the  garnish. 
MALLARD — Name  of  our  best  and  largest  wild 

duck. 
ROAST  MALLARD,  AMERICAN  STYLE— The 
birds  plucked,  singed,  drawn  and  trussed,  then 
roasted  rare  30  to  40  minutes,  jointed,  the 
joints  kept  hot;  the  carcasses  stewed  down  with 
herbs  and  seasonings,  sauce  made  from  it,  fin- 
ished with  currant  jelly  and  port  wine,  served 
with  the  joints. 
MALLARD,  PROVENCALE  STYLE  —  The 
birds  plucked,  singed,  drawn,  stuffed,  trussed. 


Xo6 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


roasted  and  served  in  portions  with  the  gravy 
from  the  birds  mixed  with  shallot  sauce. 

BROILED  MALLARD,  MAITRE  D'HOTEL— 
The  birds  plucked,  singed,  split  down  the  back; 
back  and  breastbones  removed,  laid  skin  down- 
wards in  a  pan,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
olive  oil,  marinaded  in  this  for  15  minutes, 
then  broiled  rare;  served  with  miitre  d'hotel 
butter  and  garnished  with  water  cress. 

FRIED  MALLARD,  ORANGE  SAUCE— The 
The  birds  prepared,  split  down  the  back,  back 
and  breastbones  removed,  thigh  bone  snapped, 
marinaded  for  an  hour  in  olive  oil  with  a  few 
chopped  onions,  parsley  and  mushroom  ketch- 
up, taken  up,  fried  rare  with  a  little  olive  oil; 
served  with  Bigarade  sauce. 

FILLETS  OF  MALLARD,  GAME  SAUCE— 
Prepare  and  roast  as  for  American  style  above; 
when  done,  take  off  the  fillets,  stew  down  the 
carcasses  in  game  sauce  with  a  few  shallots, 
port  wine  and  a  piece  of  game  glaze,  strain 
through  a  fine  chinee  cap,  finish  with  cayenne 
and  lemon  juice;  served  with  the  portions. 

SALMIS  OF  MALLARD  — The  birds  plainly 
roasted  very  rare,  jointed,  the  joints  skinned; 
carcasses  and  skins  then  boiled  down  with 
herbs,  cloves,  whole  peppers,  bay  leaves  and 
fried  shallots;  when  reduced,  made  into  a 
sauce,  strained  and  skimmed,  finished  with  a 
little  glaze  and  port  wine,  joints  then  put  in 
and  simmered  for  15  minutes,  afterwards  kept 
hot  but  not  allowed  to  boil;  served  garnished 
with  croiitons. 

MANGO — Name  of  a  most  superb  torrid  climate 
fruit,  about  the  size  of  a  large  lemon,  the  inter- 
ior of  a  pulpy  nature  attached  to  a  stone  in  size 
like  that  of  a  large  peach  stone.  On  account  of 
its  perishability  in  transport,  we  obtain  it 
chiefly  as  a  pickle,  jelly,  chutney  or  preserve. 

MARASCHINO— A  very  fine  liqueur  of  Italian 
origin,  obtained  from  the  Marasca  cherry, 
plum  and  peach  kernels;  used  both  as  a  drink 
and  a  flavoring  to  jellies,  ices,  sauces,  puddings, 
meringues,  etc.,  etc. 

MARINADE — A  pickling  mixture  made  of  oil, 
vinegar,  lemon  juice;  salt,  pepper,  herbs,  "Wor- 
cestershire sauce,  anchovy  essence,  onions, 
bay  leaves,  whole  peppers,  whole  cloves,  and 
parsley,  the  different  ingredients  above  being 
variously  added  to  the  oil;  vinegar  or  lemon 
juice  according  to  the  fish,  flesh  or  fowl  to  be 
marinaded,  the  article  being  steeped  for  an  hour 
or  so  prior  to  being  cooked  so  as  to  either  en- 
rich or  bring  out  the  flavor  in  cooking. 

MARJORAM — Name  of  a  garden  herb  used  as  a 
flavoring  to  soups,  sauces  and  stufiSng  for  fish 
and  fowl. 

MARMALADE — Another  name  for  jam,  marma- 
lade being  the  word  mostly  used  in  this  coun- 
try. Recipes  for  its  making  are  found  under 
the  fruit  headings  which  can  be  used. 


MAR  RONS— French  name  for  chestnu.s.  The 
French  take  the  large  nuts  and  preserve  them 
by  candying,  then  export  them  either  in  cans 
with  syiup,  or  crystalized. 

MARROW— The  contents  of  leg  of  beef  bones, 
especially  the  bone  of  the  buttock,  which  runs 
between  the  thick  flank,  top  side  and  silver  side, 
the  buttock  generally  being  termed  the  round. 
The  top  side  of  the  buttock  makes  very  fine 
steaks  indeed,  and  in  England  fetches  25c  per 
pound;  the  silver  side  of  the  buttock  being  used 
for  boiling  either  fresh  or  salt,  and  fetches  i6c 
per  pound.  The  marrow  bone  should  be  sawn 
in  three  pieces,  the  marrow  taken  out,  blanched 
in  boiling  milk  and  water  for  a  minute,  cooled, 
then  cut  in  slices  to  lay  on  a  steak,  over  which 
may  be  poured  fines-herbes  sauce,  or  it  may  be 
cut  in  pieces  and  mixed  with  chopped  mush- 
rooms, onion  and  parsley,  and  filled  into  paper 
cases  that  have  been  buttered  and  lined  with 
breadcrumbs,  then  baked  and  served;  or  into 
fancy  paste  croflstades;  or  it  may  be  cut  into 
small  dice,  seasoned,  mixed  with  cream  and 
beaten  eggs,  filled  into  patty  pans  lined  with 
puff  paste  and  baked;  or  again  simmered  in 
white  Italian  sauce  and  used  as  a  bcuch^e  or 
small  patty  filling;  again  cut  into  long  pieces, 
dipped  in  a  frying  batter,  fried  and  served  with 
a  tomato  pur^e;  made  into  quenelles  by  adding 
an  equal  quantity  of  bread  crumbs,  a  little 
flour,  salt,  pepper  and  egg  yolks,  pound,  rub 
through  a  sieve,  form  with  spoons,  then  poach. 

MARZIPAN — Name  given  to  an  almond  paste 
used  by  confectioners;  made  of  14  ozs.  of  sweet 
almonds,  two  of  bitter, one  pound  of  powdered 
sugar,  a  flavoring  either  of  orange  flower  or 
rose  water;  the  almonds  are  blanched,  dried, 
pounded  with  the  sugar  and  flavoring  to  a  paste, 
then  put  into  a  preserving  pan  and  stirred 
over  the  fire  till  it  clings  in  a  mass  to  the  spat- 
ula, it  is  then  formed  into  rolls,  cut  in  slices 
and  baked  in  a  very  cool  oven  till  of  a  light 
brown  color,  or  forced  through  a  bag  and  tube 
into  ring  shapes,  dusted  with  sugar  and  baked. 

MASTIC — An  aromatic  resin  used  for  flavoring 
chewing  gum. 

MATELOTE — Name  of  a  fish  stew  or  garnish  for 
fish,  (a  la  Matelote  means  in  sailor's  style). 
See  garnishes. 

MAYONNAISE— Name  of  a  salad  dressing,  also 
as  a  decorative  sauce  for  cold  fish.  Made  with 
a  pint  of  olive  oil,  half  a  pint  of  white  vinegar, 
juice  of  two  lemons,  five  raw  egg  yolks,  one 
ounce  of  dry  mustard,  salt  and  red  pepper  to 
taste;  place  the  cold  yolks  and  mustard  in  a  cold 
bowl,  thorougly  mix,  then  drop  by  drop  stir  in 
one-fourth  of  the  oil,  when  like  butter  gradually 
thin  with  some  of  the  liquid,  then  add  the  salt, 
when  it  will  be  found  to  have  thickened  right 
up  again;  then  finish  stirring  in  the  remaining 
oil  and  liquid  at  alternate  intervals,  finish  with 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


I07 


the  red  pepper  (some  add  a  little  powdered 
sugar  with  the  pepper).  When  finished  it 
should  be  thick  enough  to  mask  a  fish  or  salad 
without  running  ofiE. 

ASPIC  MAYONNAISE— Equal  parts  of  mayon- 
naisse  and  bright  aspic  jelly  barely  melted, 
beaten  together,  used  to  set  mazarins. 

MAZARINS— Molds  of  decorate^  fillets  of  fowl, 
game  or  fish,  set  with  aspic  mayonnaise,  turned 
out  when  cold  and  firm,  decorated  and  sent  to 
table. 

MEDALLIONS — Name  given  to  medal  size  and 
shaped  pieces  of  savory  foods,  such  as  foie-gras, 
potted  tongue,  ham,  etc.,  jellied  meats.  They 
are  always  nicely  decorated  and  generally  used 
as  an  appetizer  or  hors  d'oeuvre. 

MELONS — Name  of  a  fruit  largely  contained  of 
water;  the  watermelon  and  the  different  varie- 
ties of  canteloupe;  the  latter  being  used  gener- 
ally as  a  breakfast  appetizer,  and  the  former  as 
a  dinner  dessert;  preserved  watermelon  rind 
makes  a  fine  preserve  for  the  summer  tea. 

MELON  PRESERVE — Cut  the  watermelon  rind 
into  small  pieces,  place  20  lbs.  into  a  tub, 
sprinkle  it  well  with  a  pint  of  salt,  just  cover 
it  with  cold  water  and  allow  it  to  marinade  for 
five  hours,  then  drain,  and  again  cover  it  with 
cold  water  and  soak  for  two  hours,  changing 
the  water  three  times,  then  drain,  put  on  the 
fire  in  a  preserving  pan,  cover  with  boiling 
water,  bring  to  boiling  point,  then  drain  again; 
make  a  syrup  of  ten  pounds  of  sugar  and  six 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  boil  and  skim,  then  add 
the  melon  rind,  and  slowly  simmer  till  tender; 
skim  out  the  rind,  place  it  on  draining  sieves 
for  two  hours  in  a  warm  place  to  set;  when 
hardened  place  into  cold  crocks;  boil  up  the 
syrup  again  with  the  sliced  peel  and  juice  of 
eight  lemons  and  two  ounces  of  sliced  ginger, 
boil  ten  minutes,  then  strain  over  the  fruit  in 
the  crocks. 

MENU— French  term  for  "bill  of  fare".  Why 
should  the  word  MENU  head  our  American 
dinner  bills?  Why  should  the  progressive  Ameri- 
can ape  dying  France?  Why  should  the  Ameri- 
can culinary  student  detest  the  kitchen  be- 
cause he  cannot  twist  his  tongue  around  the 
French  culinary  a  la  this  and  that?  Is  not  the 
American  flag  dear  to  the  American?  Then 
why  net  the  American  language?  Does  not  the 
farmer,  mechanic,  layman  and  every  American 
who  patronizes  hotel,  restaurant  and  club  life 
know  the  meaning  of  the  term  "bill  of  fare"? 
Then  why  put  the  French  word  '  'MENU"  at  the 
bead,  and  the  generally  mongrel  Frenchy  terms 
throughout  the  bill  of  fare?  When  in  Rome  do 
as  the  Romans  do;  then  when  in  America  do 
as  the  Americans  do.  Let  those  from  France, 
or  the  French  scholars,  read  the  plain  home- 
like American  language  on  our  bills  of  fare,  the 


Menus  in  the  languages  of  Europe.  They  do 
not  print  the  Menus  in  France  in  the  American 
language;  then  why  should  we  print  our  Ameri- 
can bills  of  fare  in  French,  or  as  is  generally 
the  case  in  half  French  and  half  American? 
For  example:  "Veal  cutlet  a  la  Francaise," 
or  "Small  patties  de  volaille,"  why  not  put 
Small  patties  of  chicken"?  Everyone  knows 
what  chicken  is  and  will  order  it,  but  all  do  not 
know  that  volaille  translated  means  fowl. 

One  of  my  first  thoughts  in  Tvriting  this 
handbook  -was  to  abstain  from  French  terms. 
I  said  to  myself,  I  WILL  WRITE  AN  AMERI- 
CAN CULINAR  Y  HANDBOOK  FOR  AMERI- 
CANS. I  have  heard  it  frequently  stated  that 
the  terms  for  the  bill  of  fare  could  not  be  prop- 
erly represented  in  the  American  language. 
I SA  Y  IT  CAN,  and  as  a  proof  positive  you 
have  it  here.  There  are  no  French  terms  used 
for  the  receipts  of  this  book,  and  the  headings 
as  given  are  tvhat  should  in  m^y  opinion  be 
placed  on  the  bill  of  fare,  as  perfectly  adequate 
in  describing  the  dish. 

MERINGUE — Name  given  to  a  mixture  made 
by  whipping  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
then  working  in  sugar,  and  sometimes  flavor- 
ings and  colors;  used  as  a  covering  to  cup 
custards,  puddings,  cream  pies,  shortcakes, 
florentines,  etc.,  as  an  icing  for  cakes;  also  when 
of  a  firm  mixture  forced  through  a  bag  and  tube 
into  shapes,  then  baked  dry  without  much  color, 
the  insides  are  then  scooped  out  and  used  as  a 
receptacle  for  ices,  ice  creams,  creams,  etc. 

MILANAISE — Name  of  a  garnish  composed  of 
strips  of  white  chicken  meat,  red  ham,  black 
truflQes  and  pipe  macaroni  worked  into  a  v^lout6 
sauce,  finished  with  a  little  Parmesan  cheese. 

MILT— Name  of  the  soft  roe  of  fish. 

MINCEMEAT — Ten  pounds  of  sound  cooking 
apples  chopped  fine,  ten  pounds  of  raisins 
seeded  and  chopped,  five  pounds  of  currants 
thoroughly  cleaned  and  freed  from  grit,  ^ 
pound  each  of  orange  and  lemon  candied  peel, 
two  pounds  of  citron  all  shredded,  ten  pounds 
of  granulated  sugar,  a  mixture  of  ground  spice 
(made  of  five  grated  nutmegs,  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful each  of  cloves,  mace,  allspice,  cinnamon 
and  black  pepper),  seven  and  a  half  pounds 
each  of  beef  suet  and  boiled  lean  beef  chopped, 
half  a  cup  of  salt,  mix  well,  then  moisten  with 
the  juice  of  ten  oranges,  a  quart  each  of  good 
brandy  and  Jamaica  rum  and  enough  old  cider 
to  form  a  stiff  consistency. 

MINT — A  garden  herb,  used  as  a  soup  and  sauce 
flavoring;  mint  sauce  for  lamb  made  by  finely 
chopping  fresh  green  mint,  then  place  it  in  a 
tureen  adding  to  it  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of 
a  lemon;  bring  to  the  boil  with  enough  sugar 
to  be  palatable,  one  pint  of  good  vinegar,  pour 


as  the  traveling  American  has  to  read  the       it  to  the  mint,  let  cool  and  serve. 


X08 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


MOLASSES— A  thick  liquid  obtained  from  sugar 
in  its  process  of  refining;  used  for  cakes,  pud- 
dings, candy,  etc. 

MULLET— A  small  sea  fish  of  the  Southern 
coasts,  seldom  seen  at  table,  as  the  gray  is  too 
common,  and  the  red  too  scarce.  The  red 
should  be  just  wiped,  the  entrails  drawn,  leav- 
ing the  liver  and  trail  in  the  fish,  roll  them  in 
olive  oil,  sprinkle  with  parsley,  broil  them  in 
paper  cases  and  serve  with  Italian,  Ravigote 
or  fine  herb  sauce.  The  gray  mullet  may  be 
treated  in  any  of  the  forms  applicable  to  herrings 

MUSHROOMS  —  An  edible  fungi,  umbrella 
shaped,  dark  gills,  with  easily  removable  skin; 
if  those  sold  you  have  white  gills  and  the  skin 
will  not  strip  easily,  but  breaks  off  in  bits,  dis- 
card them,  they  will  probably  be  found  to  be 
toadstools.  At  least  70  per  cent,  of  the  mush- 
rooms used  in  culinary  preparations  are  canned 
button  mushrooms  and  morels.  Fresh  mush- 
rooms are  seldom  used  in  sauces  on  account  of 
their  color.  The  following  recipes  will  use 
canned,  except  where  stated. 

PURfeE  OF  MUSHROOMS  — Canned  button 
mushrooms  minced,  saut^ed  with  butter  for  five 
minutes,  moistened  with  v^lout^  sauce,  reduce 
quickly,  then  add  some  thick  cream  and  lemon 
juice,  reduce  five  minutes  more,  then  rub 
through  a  tamis  for  use. 

MUSHROOM  GARNISH— Canned  mushrooms 
drained,  the  liquor  reduced,  the  mushrooms 
boiled  down  with  a  seasoning  of  salt,  lemon 
juice,  butter  and  a  little  white  stock,  when 
nearly  dry,  the  liquor  added,  the  whole  then 
put  into  a  thick  Allemande  sauce  and  used  to 
garnish  white  entries,  or  put  into  a  rich  Espag- 
nole  sauce  to  garnish  brown  entries. 

STUFFED  MUSHROOMS, ITALIAN  SAUCE— 
Large  fresh  mushrooms  skinned,  stalk  removed, 
placed  skin  side  downward  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  filled  with  the  following:  Mince  the  stalks 
with  some  shallots,  parsley,  fat  bacon,  lean 
ham  and  thyme  leaves,  sant6  them  in  olive  oil 
for  five  minutes,  then  work  in  some  egg  yolks, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper;  when  filled, 
sprinkle  with  breadcrumbs  and  melted  butter, 
bake  till  nicely  browned  (about  20  minutes); 
serve  with  brown  Italian  sauce  poured  around, 
garnish  with  fancy  croiitons. 

BAKED  MUSHROOMS  ON  TOAST— Medium 
sized  fresh  mushrooms  skinned  and  the  stalks 
removed,  wash  in  cold  water  containing  a  dash 
of  vinegar,  drain,  arrange  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan  skin  side  downward;  into  each  then  place 
half  a  pat  of  butter,  bake  till  done  (about  20 
minutes)  basting,  with  the  butter  once  or  twice; 
serve  on  buttered  toast  garnished  with  tufts  of 
fried  parsley. 

BROILED  MUSHROOMS— Large  fresh  mosh- 
rooms  skinned  and  the  stalks  removed,  dipped 


in  melted  butter,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
placed  in  wire  hinged  broiler,  broiled  till  done; 
meantime  slice  the  stalks  very  thin  and  saut^ 
them  with  butter  and  a  little  chopped  parsley; 
serve  the  mushrooms  on  toast,  or  as  an  accom- 
paniment to  steaks,  cutlets,  etc.,  adding  the 
saut^ed  stalks. 

MUSHROOMS  IN  CROUSTADES— Small  fresh 
button  mushrooms  peeled,  washed,  drained, 
saut^ed  with  butter,  chopped  chives  and  pars- 
ley, seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  just  moist- 
ened with  Allemande  sauce  and  a  dash  of  lemon 
juice,  filled  into  fancy  paste,  or  fried  bread 
croustades  and  served. 

SAUTfe  OF  MUSHROOMS— Medium  sized  fresh 
mushrooms  peeled,  washed  and  drained,  sauteed 
with  butter  and  minced  shallots,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  moistened  slightly 
with  chicken  broth,  then  reduce;  serve  on  toast, 
or  on  platter  garnished  with  strips  of  buttered 
toast,  or  as  a  garnish. 

STUFFED  MUSHROOMS,  CREOLE  STYLE 
— Medium  sized  fresh  mushrooms  peeled  and 
washed,  stalks  removed  and  minced  with  a  lit- 
tle celery  and  green  peppers,  saute  the  mince  in 
olive  oil,  then  moisten  with  chicken  liquor,  re- 
duce, then  thicken  with  fresh  grated  bread- 
crumbs, remove  from  fire  and  add  strips  of 
truffle  peelings,  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pap- 
rika, fill  the  mushrooms,  smooth,  brush  with 
beaten  eggs,  press  on  some  breadcrumbs, 
arrange  in  a  shallow  sautoir,  saut^  on  both 
sides,  when  nicely  browned,  take  up  and  serve 
on  toast  with  Creole  sauce  separate. 

STEWED  MUSHROOMS— Canned  mushrooms 
drained,  the  liquor  reduced,  the  mushrooms 
fried  light  brown  with  butter,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  when  brown  add  a  little  flour, 
shake,  moisten  with  the  liquor,  juice  of  lemons, 
Espagnole  sauce  and  sherry  wine,  simmer  and 
skim;  when  bright,  use  as  a  garnish  to  larded 
fillet  of  beef,  etc. 

FRICASSEE  OF  MUSHROOMS— Canned  but- 
ton mushrooms  drained,  the  liquor  reduced,  the 
mushrooms  fried  a  light  brown  with  butter  and 
minced  shallots;  when  colored,  drained,  and 
placed  with  the  reduced  liquor  into  a  rich 
Poulette  sauce,  season  with  nutmeg,  salt,  cay- 
enne and  lemon  juice;  served  on  toast,  in  cases, 
croflstades,  or  as  a  garnish  to  white  entries. 

MUSHROOM  SAUCE— Canned  mushrooms 
drained,  the  liquor  reduced,  the  mushrooms 
sauteed  lightly  with  butter,  then  added  to  a 
Velout^  sauce  with  the  reduced  liquor,  season 
with  cayenne  and  lemon  juice  for  white  entries, 
or  use  Madeira  or  Espagnole  sauces  for  brown 
entrees. 

CREAMED  FRESH  MUSHROOMS-Fresh  but- 
ton mushrooms  peeled,  washed  and  drained, 
thick  pare  cream  fetched  to  the  boil,  mush- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


109 


rooms  cooked  in  it  till  done  (about  7  minutes), 
season  with  salt  and  cayenne;  serve  in  chafing 
dish. 

MUSHROOM  CATSUP— Fresh  mushrooms 
wiped  (not  washed)  and  placed  into  crocks 
in  layers  till  full,  each  layer  being  well 
sprinkled  with  salt;  when  full,  cover  with  a 
folded  cloth  and  stand  in  a  warm  place  for  24 
hours,  then  mash  and  strain  through  a  very 
coarse  towel  or  a  sack;  to  each  gallon  of  the 
liquor  thus  obtained  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  whole  peppers  and  simmer  for  half  an  hour, 
then  add  one  ounce  of  whole  cloves,  one  ounce 
of  whole  allspice,  two  ounces  of  bruised  ginger 
and  half  an  ounce  of  whole  mace,  simmer  for 
another  half  hour,  then  remove  from  fire;  when 
cold,  strain  through  a  jelly  bag,  bottle,  cork 
and  seal. 

STUFFED  MUSHROOMS  ON  TOAST— Fresh 
mushrooms,  the  stalks  minced  and  saut^ed  with 
a  few  shallots  and  parsley,  added  then  to  a  lit- 
tle minced  chicken  in  sauce  Supreme,  the 
mushrooms  stuffed  with  it  and  baked;  served  on 
circles  of  buttered  toast. 

FRICASSEE  OF  MUSHROOMS— Fresh  mush- 
rooms peeled,  broiled  on  outside  till  brown, 
simmered  in  thin  Bechamel  sauce  till  done; 
served  with  fancy  croutons. 

MUSHROOM  RISSOLES— A  quart  of  minced 
fresh  mushrooms,  two  minced  medium  sized 
onions,  pepper,  salt,  a  pinch  of  ground  mixed 
herbs,  simmered  in  thick  sauce  till  the  onion  is 
done,  a  spoonful  then  placed  in  rounds  of  pas- 
try, edges  folded  over,  pinched  round,  sprink- 
led with  breadcrumbs  and  fried  in  oil. 

MUSHROOM  OMELET— Use  either  canned  or 
fresh  mushrooms,  saut^  till  tender  with  a  few 
minced  shallots,  drain,  add  them  to  a  Madeira 
sauce,  simmer,  make  the  omelet,  enclose  the 
mushrooms,  pour  the  sauce  around  it  and  send 
to  table. 

MUSCALLONGE— A  large  fish  of  the  pike 
species  found  in  the  great  lakes;  may  be  cooked 
and  served  in  all  the  ways  for  pike  (which  see). 

MUSSELS — A  large  almond  shaped  shellfish 
found  along  the  coasts,  equally  as  good  as  oys- 
ters, but  on  account  of  their  cheapness  not  so 
much  used;  are  eaten  raw  the  same  as  oysters, 
but  generally  first  blanched,  the  usual  way  be- 
ing to  thoroughly  wash  the  shells,  then  to  Y^ 
fill  a  saucepan  with  them,  adding  just  a  little 
water,  put  on  the  lid,  then  steam  till  they  open 
their  shells,  when  the  fish  is  removed,  they  may 
then  be  used  as  follows: 

SCALLOPED  MUSSELS— Large  fat  mussels 
raw,  simmered  till  plump  in  a  little  fish  broth 
with  bay  leaf,  thyme  and  parsley;  taken  up, 
drained,  added  to  a  thick  BJschamel  sauce,  filled 
into  scallop  shells,  smoothed  over,  sprinkled 
with  breadcrumbs  and  grated  cheese,  browned 
off  and  served. 


BROCHETTE  OF  MUSSELS— Blanched  mus- 
sels threaded  on  skewers,  dipped  in  melted 
butter  and  breadcrumbs  twice,  then  broiled,  or 
may  be  dipped  in  butter  and  fried  in  deep  fat. 

FRIED  MUSSELS— Raw  mussels  drained,  rolled 
in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  fried  a  golden 
brown  in  a  little  very  hot  fat  in  a  frying  pan. 

FRICASSEE  OF  MUSSELS— Blanched  mussels 
in  HoUandaise  sauce;  served  on  toast  sprinkled 
with  parsley  dust. 

STEAMED  MUSSELS,  LEMON  BUTTER 
SAUCE — Blanched  mussels  simmered  in  mai- 
tre  d'hotel  butter;  served  on  strips  of  hot  toast, 
sauce  poured  over  them. 

STEWED  MUSSELS— Blanched  mussels,  boil- 
ing milk  5^,  mussel  liquor  strained  ^,  butter, 
salt,  red  pepper;  same  as  oyster  stew. 

STEWED  MUSSELS— Blanched  mussels,  thin 
white  sauce  made  of  5^  milk  and  y^  strained 
mussel  liquor,  mussels  added  with  chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  red  pepper;  served  with  oyster 
crackers  or  thin  brown  bread. 

MUSSELS  BREADED,  VILLEROI  SAUCE— 
Blanched  mussels  dipped  into  cooling  Villeroi 
sauce;  when  set,  dipped  into  sifted  bread- 
crumbs, then  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  fried  in 
dripping  a  golden  color;  served  garnished  with 
tufts  of  fried  parsley,  and  lemon. 

MUSSELS  SAUTfeS  WITH  FINE  HERBS— 
Blanched  mussels  saut^ed  with  butter,  minced 
chives,  parsley,  garlic  and  sifted  breadcrumbs, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  served  in  cases. 

MUSSEL  SAUCE— Blanched  mussels  in  sauce 
Normande. 

CREAMED  MUSSELS— Raw  mussels  dropped 
into  hot  butter  and  saut^ed  till  plump.  Becha- 
mel sauce  then  added,  simmered;  served  on 
toast  with  sauce  poured  over. 

MUSSELS,  ITALIAN  STYLE— Raw  mussels 
saut^ed  in  butter  with  minced  onions;  when 
onions  are  slightly  brown,  the  oysters  taken  up 
into  a  sautoir,  tomatoes  added  and  reduced  till 
thick,  then  added  to  the  mussels  with  white 
sauce  and  chopped  parsley;  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper,  butter  and  a  dash  of  anchovy  essence; 
served  in  scallop  dishes  garnished  with  sippets 
of  toast. 

MUSSELS,  FISHERMtN  STYLE— Raw  mus- 
sels dried  between  cloths,  butter  fried  to  a  nut 
brown,  mussels  then  added  and  fried  till  plump, 
taken  up;  light  brown  sauce  then  made  with  the 
butter,  flour,  salt,  pepper  and  fish  broth,  mus- 
sels arranged  on  toast,  sauce  poured  over  and 
served . 

PAN  ROAST  OF  MUSSELS— Raw  mussels 
dropped  into  frothing  butter  and  fried  till 
plump,  seasoned  with  salt  and  cayenne;  served 
on  strips  of  toast  with  enough  of  the  liquor  to 
moisten  it,  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust  and 
garnished  with  cress  and  lemon. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


MUSTARD— A  yellow  flour  produced  by  finely 
griudiog  the  seeds  of  the  mustard  plant;  prepared 
for  table  as  a  condiment  by  simply  mixing  to  a 
thick  cream  with  cold  water  and  a  taste  of  salt. 
The  French  prepare  mustard  for  table  use  by 
boiling  together  equal  quantities  of  tarragon 
and  cider  vinegars,  pouring  it  to  the  mustard 
flour  and  when  thickened,  simmered  a  few  min- 
utes, meanwhile  adding  a  flavoring  composed 
of  white  wine  which  has  had  soaked  in  it  in  a 
warm  place  for  an  hour  or  so  some  celery 
seeds,  whole  spices  and  a  clove  of  crushed 
garlic,  salt  and  a  taste  of  sugar. 

MUSTARD  AND  CRESS— These  are  the  first 
sproutings  of  the  cress  seed  and  the  mustard 
seed,  used  in  equal  proportions  mixed,  after 
being  thoroughly  washed  and  drained.  To 
form  sandwiches  between  brown  bread  and 
butter  simply  sprinkled  with  salt,  or  used  as  a 
breakfast  salad  by  lightly  tossing  with  a  sprink- 
ling of  salt,  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice. 

MUTTON— What  a  tremendous  difference  there 
is  in  mutton,  brought  about  by  its  different 
pastures  and  breeds.  The  steward  should  al- 
ways buy  WETHER  mutton,  leaving  the 
EWES  entirely  alone,  unless  they  are  MAID- 
ENS. The  best  cutting  sheep  are  from  sixty 
to  seventy  pounds  in  weight.  The  skin  should 
be  dry.  Leave  the  oily  skinned  ones  alone  as 
they  will  eat  TOUGH.  See  that  they  are  mod- 
erately lean  by  noting  the  shoulder  meat  show- 
ing through  the  skin,  and  also  that  the  meat  of 
the  leg  outwards  can  be  seen  through  the  skin 
extending  well  down  towards  the  loin.  Cheaper 
to  buy  the  whole  sheep  and  use  all  its  parts 
(except  the  head)  then  to  keep  on  buying  racks, 
racks,  racks.  The  butcher  is  going  to  cut  those 
racks  LONG,  and  you  have  to  cut  off  two  or 
three  inches,  before  you  can  send  them  to  the 
broiler,  and  the  chops  then  come  very  expen- 
sive.      The  loin  chops  which  are  infinitely  the 


take  up,  cut  the  vegetables  into  finger  sizes; 
make  a  white  sauce  from  the  stock,  adding 
capers  and  caper  vinegar;  serve  in  portions 
with  the  sauce  at  ends  of  dish,  using  the  vege- 
tables as  a  garnish. 

ROAST  LEG  OF  MUTTON— Cut  off  the  shank 
bone,  rub  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with 
flour,  roast  till  done  with  frequent  basting, 
take  up,  pour  off  surplus  fat  from  the  pan,  add 
a  little  flour  to  ihe  remaining  gravy,  moisten 
with  stock  to  make  a  sauce,  strain,  add  capers 
and  caper  vinegar,  or  let  it  remain  plain  and 
serve  with  each  portion  some  red  currant  jelly 
separate. 

BRAISED  LEG  OF  MUTTON— Cut  off  the 
shank  bone,  put  the  leg  into  a  brasiere  with 
some  fat  bacon  trimmings,  onions,  carrots,  bay 
leaves,  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  whole  peppers 
and  allspice,  moisten  with  mutton  stock,  place 
on  the  lid,  then  put  the  whole  into  a  hot  oven, 
cook  till  done  and  glazy,  take  up,  then  reduce 
the  braise  to  half  glaze,  strain,  skim;  serve 
with  the  portions  and  red  currant  jelly  separ- 
ate; or  you  may  garnish  it  with  glazed  balls  of 
carrot  and  turnip,  also  some  glazed  small 
onions. 

BRAISED  STUFFED  LEG  OF  MUTTON— 
Bone  the  leg,  and  where  the  bone  was,  insert  a 
filling  composed  of  minced  mushrooms,  pars- 
ley, shallots,  grated  ham,  little  grated  lemon 
rind,  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  mix 
these  well,  then  work  in  some  forcemeat,  sew 
up  the  openings,  place  the  stuffed  leg  into  a 
brasiere  with  carrots,  turnips,  celery,  clove  of 
crushed  garlic,  whole  cloves  and  mace,  moisten 
with  stock,  braise  and  glaze;  when  done,  take 
up,  and  reduce  the  braise,  strain  and  skim  it, 
add  it  to  a  V^lout^  sauce  containing  capers; 
serve  with  a  stuffed  tomato  at  ends  of  dish,  with 
the  sauce  poured  around. 


best  should  be  used  with  the  neck  chop,  one  of    BRAISED  LARDED  LEG  OF  MUTTON- -Bone 


each,  thus  making  the  pair  of  chops  usually 
called  for,  the  trimmed  bone  of  the  neck  one 
carrying  the  frill  and  a  croquette  tip  stuck  into 
the  loin  one.  In  cutting  up  the  sheep,  split  it 
straight  through  the  spinal  column,  then  sep- 
arate the  quarters,  cut  off  the  legs  close  to  the 
pin  bone.  The  loin  will  yield  three  half  pound 
trimmed  chump  chops,  and  ten  six  ounce 
trimmed  loin  chops.  With  the  forequaiter, 
lift  off  the  shoulder,  cut  off  the  breast,  then  cut 
off  the  scrag  with  the  first  two  bones  of  the 
rack  adhering;  you  now  have  eleven  neck  chops 
to  each  quarter,  or  forty-eight  chops  to  the 
sheep,  two  legs  and  two  shoulders  for  joints, 
the  breasts  and  scrags  for  the  multitude  of  en- 
tries and  the  helps  ball. 
BOILED  LEG  OF  MUTTON— Cut  off  the 
shank  bone,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water  with  salt 
whole  carrots  and  white  turnips;   when  done, 


and  stuff  the  leg  of  mutton  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe,  then  lard  the  outside  with  seasoned 
strips  of  bacon,  place  in  brasiere  with  carrot, 
turnip,  onion,  celery,  bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
cloves  and  mace,  moisten  with  stock,  braise 
and  glaze,  take  up  when  done,  reduce  the  re- 
maining braise,  strain  and  skim  it;  serve  with 
onion  pur^e  at  one  end  of  the  dish,  potato  cro- 
quette at  the  other,  and  send  the  sauce  to 
table  separate. 
BRAISED  LEG  OF  MUTTON,  WITH  BEANS 
— Cut  off  the  shank,  insert  six  cloves  of  garlic 
into  the  leg  at  different  places,  braise  with  vege- 
tables and  spices,  take  up  when  done,  then  re- 
duce, strain  and  skim  the  braise.  Meanwhile 
boil  some  navy  beans;  when  done,  drain,  and 
mix  them  into  a  sauce  of  brown  onion  pur^e; 
serve  the  portions  of  mutton  on  top  of  a  spoon- 
ful of  the  sauced  beans,   pour  a  little  of  the 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


braise  around  and  garnish  with  a  few  Parisi- 
enne  potatoes. 

BRAISED  LEG  OF  MUTTON  WITH  VEGE- 
TABLES— Bone  the  leg,  season  it  inside  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  thyme,  sew  up,  braise 
with  vegetables  and  spices,  take  up  when  done, 
reduce,  strain  and  skim  the  braise;  serve  garn- 
ished with  glazed  young  carrots,  '  small  whole 
new  turnips,  flowerets  of  caulifflower,  green 
peas,  points  of  asparagus,  small  new  potatoes, 
quartered  artichoke  bottoms,  a  macfedoine  or 
jardiniere,  stringless  French  beans  (haricots 
verts),  flageolet  beans,  new  lima  beans,  stuffed 
cucumber,  baked  tomatoes,  etc.,  etc.  If  when 
using  any  of  the  moistened  garnishes  by  them- 
selves, place  it  on  the  bill  of  fare  as  Braised 
leg  of  mutton  with  such  and  such  garnish. 

ROLLED  SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON,  OYS- 
TER SAUCE— Bone  the  shoulder;  where  the 
bone  was,  spread  with  oyster  croquette  mix- 
ture, roll  up  tight,  tie  closely  with  string, 
place  it  in  a  steamer  and  steam  till  done;  serve 
in  portions  with  white  oyster  sauce;  or  if  after  it 
has  been  steamed  two- thirds  done,  take  it  up  and 
finish  cooking  in  a  sharp  oven,  take  out  when 
of  a  deep  fawn  color  and  serve  it  with  brown 
oyster  sauce. 

BOILED  MUTTON  WITH  TURNIPS— Use 
either  the  leg  or  the  shoulder,  boil  it  medium 
done  in  salted  water  with  a  few  root  vegetables; 
serve  portions  on  a  bed  of  mashed  turnips,  with 
caper  sauce  around  the  base. 

STUFFED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON,  SAUCE 
ROBERT — Lean  breast  of  mutton,  pocket 
made  the  entire  length  between  the  meat  and 
rib  bones,  filled  with  a  stuffing  made  of  sausage 
meat  mixed  with  minced  onions,  parsley,  mush- 
rooms and  a  few  fresh  breadcrumbs,  sew  up  the 
opening,  steam  till  done;  serve  in  portions  with 
sauce  Robert. 

BREAST  OF  MUTTON  WITH  TURNIPS— 
Lean  breasts  of  mutton  boiled  tender  in  sea- 
soned broth;  when  done,  bones  removed, 
pressed  till  cold  and  firm,  then  cut  in  strips, 
breaded,  fried;  served  on  a  bed  of  mashed  tur- 
nips with  gravy  round  the  base. 

ROLLED  STUFFED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON 
— Broad  cut  lean  breasts  of  mutton,  boned, 
spread  with  veal  or  chicken  forcemeat,  rolled, 
tied  with  twine,  baked  slowly  in  roast  mutton 
gravy;  served  garnished  with  a  jardiniere  of 
vegetables. 

BRAISED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON,  ITALIAN 
SAUCE — Breasts  of  mutton  simmered  in  sea- 
soned broth  till  the  bones  are  easily  removed, 
then  press  till  cold,  cut  in  triangular  pieces, 
braise  them  in  the  reduced  stock  they  were 
simmered  in,  then  take  up  and  strain  the  braise 
into  a  brown  Italian  sauce,  which  serve  with 
the  portions. 


GLAZED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON  —  Lean 
breasts  of  mutton  boiled  till  tender  in  seasoned 
broth,  taken  up  and  boned,  then  pressed  till 
cold,  cut  in  pieces,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, saut^  in  butter,  then  place  in  hot  demi- 
glaze;  serve  garnished  with  small  glazed  onions. 

FRIED  BREAST  OF  MUTTON— Breasts  of 
mutton  boiled  tender  in  seasoned  stock,  taken 
up,  boned,  pressed,  cut  in  shapes,  dipped  in 
beaten  egg,  rolled  in  fresh  breadcrumbs,  ar- 
ranged in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  sprinkle  with 
melted  butter,  browned  and  frothed  in  a  sharp 
oven;  served  surrounded  with  tomato  sauce. 

BROILED  BREASTS  OF  MUTTON— Lean 
breasts  of  mutton  steamed  long  enough  to  draw 
the  bones,  taken  up,  skin  scored,  a  seasoning  of 
powdered  thyme,  salt  and  pepper  then  rubbed 
in,  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  fresh  bread 
crumbs;  placed  two  whole  breasts  at  a  time  in 
wire  hinged  broiler,  broiled,  basted  with  butter; 
when  nicely  browned,  served  in  two-inch  wide 
strips  with  piquante  sauce  under  the  meat. 
This  dish  is  well  appreciated  at  breakfast  or 
luncheon. 

HARICOT  OF  MUTTON— Lean  breasts  of  mut- 
ton in  strips  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
fried  quickly  a  light  brown,  taken  up  into  a 
sautoir,  sprinkled  well  with  flour,  shaken  to- 
gether, moistened  with  seasoned  broth,  brought 
to  the  boil  and  skimmed;  column  cut  slices  of 
root  vegetables  fried  in  butter  with  a  little 
sugar,  drained,  added  to  the  meat,  the  whole 
then  simmered  till  half  an  hour  before  done, 
small  balls  of  raw  potatoes  then  added  with 
small  saut^ed  onions,  finish  cooking,  season  with 
salt  and  Paprika;  served  with  the  vegetables  as 
a  garnish. 

CURRY  OF  MUTTON  WITH  RICE  — Lean 
breasts  of  mutton  in  strips  seasoned  with  salt, 
rubbed  with  curry  powder,  saut^ed  with  butter 
a  light  brown  color;  taken  up  into  a  sautoir, 
sprinkled  and  well  shook  with  flour  and  little 
more  curry  powder,  moistened  with  seasoned 
white  broth,  brought  to  the  boil,  skimmed, 
rings  of  saut^ed  onions  then  added,  simmered 
and  skimmed  till  done;  serve  within  a  border  of 
dry  boiled  rice. 

IRISH  STEW— Lean  breasts  of  mutton  cut  in 
strips,  blanched,  rinsed,  put  back  into  a  clean 
sautoir  with  balls  or  column  cut  slices  of  root 
vegetables,  moisten  with  white  stock,  simmer 
and  skim;  when  nearly  done,  balls  of  raw  pota- 
toes added;  finish  cooking,  thicken  with  flour 
and  butter,  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  serve 
sprinkled  with  chopped  parsley. 

RAGOUT  OF  MUTTON  WITH  TOMATOES— 
Lean  breasts  of  mutton  in  strips,  fried  a  light 
brown  with  butter  and  shallots,  taken  up  into  a 
sautoir,  sprinkled  and  shook  well  with  flour, 
moistened  with  mutton  gravy,  simmered  and 
skimmed,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  pap- 


112 

rika;  served  garnished  with  a  stuffed  tomato  at 
one  end,  and  balls  of  glazed  turnips  at  the 
other. 
RISSOLES  OF  MUTTON,  SAUCE  HOLLAN- 
DAISE — Cold  pieces  of  sttwed  mutton  free  of 
bones,  minced  finely,  seasoned  with  salt 
chopped  parsley,  paprika,  thyme  and  mace, 
mixed  into  one- third  of  its  bulk  of  fresh  mashed 
potatoes;  when  thoroughly  mixed,  allow  to  be- 
come quite  cold,  then  form  into  finger  lengths 
like  sausages,  double  bread,  fry;  serve  with 
HoUandaise  sauce. 

CASSEROLES  OF  MUTTON— Make  a  stiff  po- 
tato croquette  mixture,  shape  pieces  of  it  like  a 
patty,  double  bread  and  fry;  now  cut  a  lid 
scoop  out  the  inside,  thus  leaving  a  case,  fill  the 
interior  with  mutton  mince  of  the  preceding 
recipe  (heated),  put  on  the  lid,  keep  them  hot; 
with  the  potatoes  you  scooped  out,  form  into 
Duchesse  potatoes  and  use  as  a  garnish. 

HASHED  MUTTON  WITH  PEPPERS— Cold 
breasts  of  mutton  from  any  of  the  forgoing 
recipes,  cut  small  in  dice  shape,  saut^ed  with 
minced  onion,  moistened  with  some  Espagnole 
sauce.  Green  peppers,  tops  cut  off,  insides 
scooped  out,  double  blanched,  drained,  filled 
with  the  mince,  gratinated,  slowly  baked  and 
basted  till  of  a  nice  brown  color;  served  with  a 
rich  tomato  sauce  poured  around. 

BREADED  MUTTON  CHOP  WITH  BEANS 
PURfiE — Best  neck  chops  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  then  bread- 
crumbs, fried  medium  done  with  butter;  navy 
beans  boiled,  drained,  rubbed  through  a  tamis, 
little  Bechamel  sauce  added,  used  as  a  bed  on 
which  to  lay  the  chops;  served  with  a  demi-glaze 
around  the  base. 

MUTTON  CHOPS  SAUTfeS,  SAUCE  SOU- 
BISE — Best  neck  chops  trimmed,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  paprika,  saut^ed  with  butter  and 
minced  shallot;  served  on  a  bed  of  onion  pur^e 
mixed  with  V^lout^  sauce,  garnished  with  fancy 
crofltons. 

MUTTON  CHOP  WITH  POTATO  BORDER— 
Best  neck  chops  trimmed,  fried  a  golden  brown 
in  butter,  fresh  mashed  potatoes  mixed  with  a 
little  chopped  parsley  forced  through  a  bag  and 
tube  around  the  dish,  chop  in  centre  with 
maitre  d'hotel  butter  spread  on  it. 

BREADED  MUTTON  CHOP  WITH  MUSH 
ROOM  PUR^E— Best  neck  chops  trimmed, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  paprika,  breaded,  fried 
with  butter;  mushrooms  stewed  in  V^lout^ 
sauce  till  soft,  then  rubbed  through  sieve;  chop 
served  resting  on  fancy  shape  of  buttered  toast 
with  the  pur^e  around. 

MUTTON  CHOPS.  PROVENCE  STYLE— 
Trimmed  neck  chops  saut^ed  half  done  with 
butter,  equal  parts  of  onion  and  mushroom 
purees  with  a  flavor  of    garlic    and  a    little 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


chopped  parsley,  brought  to  the  boil,  thickened 
with  egg  yolks,  stirred  till  of  a  thick  paste; 
this  spread  on  one  side  of  the  chop,  arranped 
in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  sprinkled  with  Par- 
mesan cheese,  finished  in  a  quick  oven;  served 
with  a  brown  sauce  poured  around. 

MUTTON  CHOP  WITH  GLAZED  NEW  CAR- 
ROTS— Best  neck  chops  trimmed,  seasoned 
and  broiled  medium  done;  new  carrots  trimmed, 
blanched,  then  sautded  till  tender  with  butter 
and  a  little  sugar,  taken  up,  drained,  then 
tossed  in  maitre  d'hotel  sauce;  served  as  a 
garnish  to  the  chop.  (Plain  broiled  chop  as  in 
the  recipe  here  given  may  be  served  with  a 
garnish  of  either  Bretonne  pur6e,  stuffed  egg 
plant,  stewed  okras,  haricots  verts,  macfedoine 
or  jardiniere  of  vegetables,  flageolets,  green 
peas,  vegetable  puree,  fried  parsley,  spinach 
pur^e,  mashed  potatoes,  saut^ed  balls  of  turnip, 
and  simply  named  on  the  bill  of  fare  as  Mutton 
chop  with  such  or  such  garnish,   as  prepared). 

MUTTON  CHOP  WITH  TRUFFLES  —  Loin 
chops  trimmed,  seasoned,  broiled;  served  with 
a  Madeira  sauce  containing  plenty  of  sliced 
truffles. 

COATED  CUTLETS  OF  MUTTON— Trimmed 
loin  chops,  quickly  saut^ed  with  butter  half 
done,  dipped  into  a  thick  sauce  containing 
minced  ham  and  mushrooms,  they  are  then 
breaded  and  slowly  fried  till  done;  served  rest- 
ing on  a  fancy  croflton,  or  they  may  be  coated 
with  an  onion  purde  and  served  with  a  Soubise 
sauce. 

MUTTON  CHOP,  SOUTHERN  STYLE-  Loin 
chops  trimmed,  seasoned,  saut^ed  till  done  with 
butter  and  minced  shallot;  served  on  a  fancy 
croiiton  garnished  with  a  mold  of  dry  boiled 
rice,  a  stuffed  baked  tomato  and  some  stewed 
okras. 

MUTTON  CHOP  WITH  PEAS  PUR6E— Loin 
chops  trimmed  and  partly  saut^ed,  then  dipped 
into  a  thick  yellow  parsley  sauce,  breaded,  fried; 
served  on  a  bed  of  peas  pur^e  and  surrounded 
with  V^lout^  sauce. 

BAKED  MUTTON  CUTLETS  WITH  APPLES 
— Take  the  chops  of  the  the  neck  under  the 
shoulder,  place  them  in  a  buttered  pan  with 
some  sliced  apples  and  onions,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  just  cover  with  a  nice  clear  gravy, 
place  another  pan  over  as  a  lid,  bake  about  45 
minutes,  remove  when  glazy;  serve  the  chop  in 
centre  of  dish  with  apples  at  one  and  onions  at 
other  side,  garnishing  the  ends  of  dish  with 
fancy  crofltons. 

MUTTON  CHOPS  FRIED,  ITALIAN  SAUCE— 
Best  neck  chops  trimmed,  spread  with  a  sauce 
containing  minced  onions,  little  garlic,  Parme- 
san cheese  and  hard  boiled  egg  yolks  rubbed 
through  a  sieve;  when  set,  double  breaded, 
fried  and  served  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


"3 


BREADED  MUTTON  CHOP.  SAUCE  PERI- 
GUEUX — Best  neck  chops  trimmed,  spread 
with  a  thick  truffle  sauce;  when  set,  double 
breaded,  fried;  served  with  Pferigu^ux  sauce. 

MUTTON  CUTLETS  FRIED,  REFORME 
GARNISH — Loin  chops  trimmed,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped  in  beaten  eggs, 
then  in  grated  ham,  again  in  eggs,  then  in  a 
mixture  of  grated  ham  and  fresh  breadcrumbs, 
arranged  in  buttered  baking  pan,  placed  in  a 
medium  oven,  browned  and  basted  with  butter; 
served  with  a  garnish  of  shredded  ham,  slices 
of  carrots  and  truffles,  also  rings  of  whites  of 
hard  boiled  eggs  in  a  sauce  SuprSme. 

MUTTON  STEW  WITH  VEGETABL  ES— 
Scrags  and  lean  breasts  of  mutton  cut  in  neat 
pieces,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  saut^ed 
a  golden  color  in  butter  with  a  few  small  onions, 
flour  then  added  to  form  a  roux,  moisten  with 
boiling  stock,  then  boil  up  and  skim,  season  to 
taste  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  clove  of 
garlic;  when  half  done,  cubes  of  carrot  and 
turnip  then  added,  also  some  lima  beans,  sim- 
mer till  done;  serve.  (Varieties  of  stew  as 
above  may  be  made  by  garnishing  with  rice 
timbales  and  small  stuffed  tomatoes  instead  of 
the  vegetables;  also  instead  of  the  vegetables, 
use  stewed  tomatoes  and  an  extra  clove  of  gar- 
lic; or  using  a  plain  garnish  of  either  green 
peas,  flageolets,  stringless  beans,  butter  beans, 
haricot  beans,  glazed  new  carrots,  braised 
stalks  of  celery,  fried  egg  plant,  rice  and  okras; 
small  white  turnips  hollowed  out,  steamed, 
then  filled  with  a  macfedoine,  jardiniere;  green 
peas,  flageolets,  etc.,  potato  croquettes,  slices 
of  stuffed  cucumber,  stuffed  artichoke  bottoms, 
etc.,  and  named  accordingly).  REMEMBER 
ALWAYS  THAT  IT  IS  THE  STEWS 
WHICH  KEEP  DOWN  THE  KITCHEN 
EXPENSES,  AND  ARE  ALWAYS  IN 
STRONG  DEMAND  BY  THE  PATRONS, 
IF  WELL  COOKED,  SEASONED,  AND 
VERY  NEATLY  GARNISHED;  IT  THEN 
APPEALS  TO  THE  EYE  AND  ITS  SAVORI- 
NESS  TO  THE  PALATE.  DO  NOT  LET 
YOUR  VEGETABLE  OR  FRY  COOK  JUST 
DISH  IT  OUT  ON  TO  THE  PLATTER 
WITH  A  LADLE  SIMPLY  BECAUSE  IT  IS 
A  STEW;  PLACE  THE  MEAT  NEATLY 
ON  A  DISH,  THEN  GARNISH  IT  WITH 
CARE. 
HASHED  MUTTON  IN  PEPPERS— Four  ibs. 
of  cold  cooked  mutton  cut  in  small  dice,  four 
medium  sized  onions  minced  and  lightly  fried 
with  butter,  then  added  to  the  mutton,  mix, 
then  moisten  with  a  little  Espagnole  sauce, 
season  to  taste,  then  bring  to  a  simmer.  Two 
dozen  medium  sized  green  peppers,  tops  cut  off, 
seeded,  double  blanched,  then  filled  with  the 
hash;  gratinate  the  tops,  bake  in  a  slow  oven  to 


a  delicate  brown;   served  with  tomato  sauce 
poured  around. 

CROUSTADES  OF  MUTTON  WITH  POACH- 
ED EGG — Cold  roast  mutton  cut  in  small  dice, 
then  placed  in  a  sautoir  and  moistened  with  a 
light  consomm^  and  a  pint  of  demi-glaze  to 
each  four  lbs.  of  meat.  Reduce  it  to  about  half 
over  a  medium  fire;  half  a  dozen  each  of  green 
peppers  and  shallots  minced  and  lightly  fried 
with  butter  then  added  to  the  hash,  mix;  fill  in- 
to fancy  croflstades  to  order,  placing  on  top  of 
each  a  freshly  cooked  and  trimmed  poached 
egg,  garnish  with  watercress. 

MUTTON  CHOPS  WITH  BUTTERED  CORN 
— Take  a  rack  of  mutton,  remove  the  meat 
from  the  bone  in  one  piece,  trim,  cut  it  up  into 
four  ounce  cutlets,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
broil  between  a  wire  hinged  broiler  a  golden 
brown;  meanwhile  cut  corn  from  hot  cooked 
cobs,  season  with  salt  and  cream,  fill  into  oval 
dishes,  cover  the  top  with  breadcrumbs  and 
sprinkle  with  melted  butter,  bake  brown 
quickly;  when  done,  place  a  chop  on  the  corn,  a 
few  Julienne  potatoes  around  the  edge,  and 
send  to  table. 

MUTTON  CUTLET  SAUTfi  WITH  FINE 
HERBS — Trimmed  chump  chops  fried  with 
butter,  fried  minced  shallots,  parsley  and 
mushrooms,  sprinkled  over  when  sending  to 
table. 

MUTTON  PIE,  ENGLISH  STYLE— Middle 
neck  chops  trimmed  and  shortened,  arranged 
in  a  deep  pie  dish  around  the  sides,  the  centre 
filled  with  balls  of  potatoes  or  small  new  ones; 
make  a  rich  white  sauce  from  strong  mutton 
stock,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  chopped 
parsley  and  capers,  cover  the  mutton  and  pota- 
toes with  it  plentifully,  place  on  a  short  crust, 
egg  wash,  bake  one  hour  in  a  medium  oven. 

BRAISED  BONED  LOIN  OF  MUTTON— Take 
a  loin  of  mutton  and  remove  the  chine  bone, 
(this  can  be  done  without  injuring  the  meat  by 
loosening  the  tenderloin  first);  where  the  bone 
was,  fill  with  a  stiff  forcemeat,  roll  over  the 
flap  and  tie  with  twine;  arrange  in  a  brasiere 
with  vegetables  and  spices,  moisten  with  stock 
enough  to  just  cover  the  mutton,  braise  and 
baste  till  done  and  glazy;  serve  in  portions  with 
a  garnish  either  of  green  peas,  macMoine,  jard- 
in^re,  asparagus  tips,  new  carrots,  stringless 
beans,  small  glazed  turnips,  stuffed  and  glazed 
cucumbers,  flowerets  of  cauliflower,  etc  It 
should  be  noted  that  glaze  should  be  over  and 
around  slightly  the  meat  portion,  and  the  veg- 
etable garnish  should  be  moistened  with  either 
a  VMoute,  B^hamel  or  Allemande  sauce. 
BRAISED  MUTTON  CHOPS,  GARNISHED— 
Racks  of  mutton  trimmed,  chine  bone  loosened 
and  the  yellow  gristle  that  runs  the  full  length 
of  the  chine  removed,  arranged  in  the  brasiere 
with  carrot,  onion,  celery,  parsley,  whole  cloves 


114 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


and  mace,  moistened  with  stock  just  enough  to 
cover,  braised  and  basted  till  done  and  glazy, 
taken  up,  the  braise  strained  and  skimmed; 
served  in  chops,  each  chop  rolled  in  the  glaze; 
served  garnished  v?ith  small  stuffed  tomatoes, 
Brussels  sprouts,  glazed  small  onions,  flageo- 
lets, green  peas,  asparagus  tips,  sauerkraut, 
new  carrots  or  turnips,  potato  quenelles  and 
ptewed  prunes  (German  style),  potato  cro- 
quettes, Soflbise  pure^,  jardiniere  or  a  macfe- 
doine  of  vegetables. 

BROILED  MUTTON  CHOPS,  GARNISHED 
— Racks  of  mutton  trimmed,  chine  bone  and 
gristle  removed,  cut  into  cutlets,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  dipped  into  melted  butter, 
broiled  medium  done  of  a  golden  color;  served 
on  a  triangle  of  toast,  garnished  with  either 
brown  Italian,  tomato,  Provenpale,  Poivrade, 
piquante.  shallot  or  fines-herbes  sauces,  or  with 
mashed  potatoes  in  shapes,  mashed  turnips, 
spinach  pure6,  endive  pure^,  Soflbise  pure^, 
Bretonne  beans  pure^,  jardinifere,  mac^doine, 
asparagus  tips,  Brussels  sprouts  saute^s.  green 
peas,  Julienne  vegetables  in  Allemande  sauce, 
small  new  potatoes  boiled,  then  moistened  with 
miitre  d'hotel  butter,  pure^  of  artichoke,  chip- 
olata  garnish,  French  beans  (haricots  verts), 
new  lima  beans,  button  mushrooms  saute^s, 
stuffed  olives. 

NASTURTIUM— Name  of  a  plant  whose  seeds 
are  extensively  used  as  a  substitute  for  pickled 
capers. 

NAVARIN — A  French  word  given  to  a  brown 
mutton  stew  with  vegetables,  the  same  as  our 
"haricot  of  mutton." 

NESSELRODE— Name  given  to  an  iced  pud- 
ding, named  after  a  Russian  statesman,  com- 
posed of  a  pure^  of  chestnuts,  whipped  cream, 
glazed  fruits,  a  flavoring  of  maraschino,  mixed 
and  frozen. 

NEUFCHATEL— Name  of  a  cream  curd  cheese 
imported  from  Switzerland.  But  most  of  that 
used  in  hotel  life  is  made  in  our  own  dairies 
and  equally  as  good  as  the  imported. 

NIVERNAISE— Name  given  to  a  garnish  of 
Julienne  vegetables  mixed  in  Allemande  sauce. 

NOISETTE— French  name  for  nut.     Sometimes 
seen  on  "bills  of  fare"  as  "Noisettes  of  mut- 
ton",   "Noisettes   d'agneau    (nuts 
"Noisettes  de  veau  (nuts  of  veal)" 
thisldish  I  will  quote  LEON  CIEUX,  a  Parisian 
chef: 

"NOISETTES  OF  LAMB.  A  LA  MAIN- 
TENON— Take  the  two  fillets  and  small  fil- 
lets (filets  mignons)  from  a  saddle  of  lamb,  take 
out  the  nerves,  trim  them,  and  divide  each  fillet 
into  six  parts  and  the  small  fillets  into  three 
parts,  beat  them,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
saut6  them  quickly  on  both  sides  with  clear 
batter;  as  soon  as  saateM,  put  in  a  good  Peri- 


gorde  sauce,  this  stops  the  wasting  and  pre- 
vents the  meat  from  giving  up  its  gravy.  Place 
each  noisette  of  lamb  on  a  crust  of  breadcrumb 
passed  through  butter  and  the  shape  of  the 
noisette;  arrange  in  a  crown  on  the  dish,  cover 
each  noisette  with  a  Soflbise  'a  la  Bechamel. 
Powder  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  moist- 
ened with  melted  butter,  glazed  in  a  hot  oven; 
pour  in  the  middle  of  the  dish  some  Perigord 
sauce,  put  on  each  noisettte  a  fine  slice  of  trufifle 
and  serve  hot,  the  cooking  must  be  quick.  This 
recipe  is  for  twelve  persons." 

I  will  here  quote  the  author  of  the  EPICUR- 
EAN, Charles  Ranhofer. 

"NOISETTES  OF  MUTTON,  AU  MADERE 
— Cut  eight  chops  of  four  ounces  each  from 
two  racks  of  mutton.  Remove  the  noix  (centre 
of  chop),  beat  them  lightly,  trim  all  to  the  same 
size,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Heat  four 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan,  when  it  is  very 
hot  add  to  it  the  noix,  saute  them  over  a  quick 
fire,  taking  care  to  turn  them  when  they  have 
a  good  color,  let  them  cook  several  minutes 
more,  arrange  them  on  crofltons  of  bread  fried  in 
butter  and  of  the  same  size  as  the  noix.  Dry 
out  the  butter  from  the  pan,  add  half  a  gill  of 
Madeira,  cook  it  down,  add  a  little  brown  sauce, 
cook  it  down  again  until  it  is  a  light  sauce, 
pass  through  the  strainer  and  pour  on  the 
noix." 

NOODLES— A  stiff  paste  made  with  sifted  flour 
and  yolks  of  eggs,  then  rolled  out  very  thin  in 
sheets,  place  several  sheets  one  on  another, 
then  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  in  strips;  for  soups 
or  to  be  used  for  all  purposes  in  place  of  mac- 
aroni; for  all  the  recipes  given  for  macaroni, 
noodles  may  be  substituted;  from  the  sheets 
may  be  stamped  out  fancy  shapes  for  decorating 
raised  pies,  etc. 

NOYEAU — Name  of  a  very  fine  liqueur  prepared 
from  the  kernels  of  fruit  stones,  almonds, 
brandy,  gin,  flavoring  extracts  and  syrup. 

NUTMEG— The  kernel  of  the  fruit  of  the  nut- 
meg tree.  The  fruit  itself  is  in  size  and  shape 
that  of  a  small  pear,  which  on  ripening,  bursts, 
exposing  its  kernel  covered  with  a  netting;  this 
netting  is  known  as  mace,  the  kernel  itself  as 
nutmeg;  it  is  used  as  a  flavoring  to  soups, 
sauces,  puddings,  custards,  etc.  The  nutmegs 
from  PENANG  are  considered  of  most  com- 
mercial value, 
of  lamb)",  OATMEAL— As  the  word  implies  it  is  the  meal 
To  prepare  of  oats;  the  oat  grains  are  skinned,  dried,  then 
ground  in  a  mill  and  placed  into  commerce  as 
coarse  and  fine  oatmeal.  This  is  then  used  to 
make  in  conjunction  with  wheat  flour,  cakes, 
biscuits,  bread,  gruel,  drinks,  mush,  puddings, 
thickening  soups,  etc.,  etc.  A  mistake  is  there- 
fore made  when  writing  "bills  of  fare"  to  say 
"oatmeal  porridge"  unless  you  use  the  meal; 
and  seldom  is  the  meal  used.  It  is  customary 
nowadays  to  use  rolled  oats,  flaked  oats,  and 
the  different  names  given   by   manufacturers. 


THF  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


"5 


such  as  H.  O.,  Quaker  oats,  etc.,  which  are  all 
rolled  and  not  meal.  Groats  is  the  proper  name 
for  the  dried  oat  grains  which  are  neither 
crushed  or  ground. 

OKRA — Name  of  an  American  vegetable  chiefly 
grown  in  the  South;  of  a  seed  pod  shape  like 
the  long  pepper.  It  is  preserved  and  canned, 
this  bemg  generally  used  in  making  gumbo 
soups  when  the  fresh  is  not  obtainable.  The 
fresh  is  trimmed  at  both  ends,  boiled  in  salted 
boiling  water  till  tender,  taken  up  and  drained, 
seasoned  with  salt, pepper  and  melted  butter  and 
served  as  a  vegetable,  or  used  as  a  garnish,  or  in 
conjunction  with  other  vegetables  as  a  garnish. 
The  Creoles  like  it  slippery,  and  after  trimming 
it  they  place  it  in  a  sautoir  with  just  enough 
water  to  moisten,  cover  with  oiled  paper,  place 
on  the  lid  and  stew  it  till  tender 'and  muscilag- 
inous,  then  it  is  further  seasoned  with  olive  oil, 
salt,  pepper  and  a  little  minced  green  or  red 
peppers.  Okras  are  esteemed  stewed  with 
tomatoes,  keeping  the  okras  whole;  also  by  tak- 
ing peeled  raw  tomatoes  and  okras,  cutting 
them  both  into  quarters,  then  stewing  with 
butter,  pepper  and  salt;  also  the  whole  okras 
trimmed,  then  stewed  tender  in  a  rich  tomato 
sauce;  also  tipped  at  both  ends,  breaded  and 
fried,  like  egg  plant. 

OKRA  SALAD-Okras  trimmed  and  boiled  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  then  drained  and  cooled;  strip- 
ped endive  washed  and  crisp  arranged  on  dish, 
the  okras  quartered  and  laid  on  top,  the  whole 
sprinkled  with  a  French  salad  dressing  contain- 
ing chopped  chives. 

OLIVES— The  fruit  of  the  olive  tree,  picked 
green,  prepared  and  salted,  then  packed  into 
barrels,  kegs,  etc.,  also  put  up  in  glass  jars.  Our 
own  California  olives  have  been  brought  to  such 
perfection,  that  they  are  now  found  to  be 
superior  to  the  imported  European,  French, 
Spanish  and  Italian.  Olive  oil  is  prepared  from 
the  ripe  fruit.  Olives  are  used  as  an  appetizer, 
either  plain  or  stoned  and  stuffed;  as  a  decor- 
ative to  salads,  as  a  flavoring  to  sauces,  as  an 
addition  to  garnitures,  etc. 

OLLA  PODRIDA— One  of  the  national  dishes  of 
Spain;  a  rich  soup  stew,  made  in  the  style  of  a 
pepper-pot.  A  large  earthernware  pot  into 
which  is  placed  tomatoes,  garlic,  long  peppers, 
chick  peas,  pieces- of  root  vegetables,  chopped 
cabbage  and  endive,  a  piece  of  flank  of  beef,  a 
fowl,  a  piece  of  streaky  bacon  and  sausages. 
The  sausages  are  made  of  equal  quantities  of 
minced  lean  and  fat  pork,  seasoned  with  garlic 
and  red  pepper;  when  mixed  it  is  macerated  in 
dry  sherry  wine  for  four  days  till  it  has  ab- 
sorbed all  it  can,  it  is  then  filled  into  sausage 
casings,  tied  in  links,  hung  till  dry  in  a  cool  air. 
The  contents  of  the  pot  are  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,   moistened  with  water,  placed  in 


medium  oven  and  cooked  till  tender.  It  is 
served  as  a  family  dish  by  placing  the  vegetables 
at  the  bottom  of  a  platter  as  a  garnish  to  the 
three  meats,  the  sausages  on  top  of  the  vege. 
tables,  and  the  broth  poured  over  the  whole. 

OMELET — Slightly  beaten  eggs  seasoned  with 
salt  and  a  little  melted  butter  so  as  to  prevent 
it  from  sticking  to  the  pan  in  cooking;  see  that 
the  pan  is  free  from  any  sticky  substance  on  the 
inside,  bottom  and  flange;  place  in  a  little  melted 
butter,  let  it  get  hot  (not  burnt),  pour  in  a  ladle 
of  eggs,  shufile  around  till  nearly  set,  then  take 
the  handle  in  the  left  hand,  depress  the  pan, 
then  with  the  right  hand  knock  the  handle  near 
the  pan, and  the  omelet  will  roll  up  from  the  furth- 
est end,  thus  forming  a  roll  with  pointed  ends, 
hold  to  the  fire  for  a  moment  and  the  centre 
will  puff  up,  turn  on  to  a  platter,  garnish  one 
end  with  a  sprig  of  crisp  cress  or  parsley  and 
send  the  plain  omelet  to  the  table  at  once. 
I  HAVE  SAID  POUR  A  LADLE  OF  EGGS, 
BECAUSE  I  HAVE  FOUND  THAT  THE 
ORDERS  ARE  SERVED  MORE  EQUAL 
BY  ITS  USE.  HAVE  A  LADLE  MADE 
THAT  WILL  HOLD  EQUAL  TO  THREE 
LIGHTLY  BEATEN  EGGS.  ONE  LADLE- 
FUL  WILL  BE  FOUND  THE  RIGHT 
QUANTITY  PER  PERSON. 

OMELET  WITH  BACON— (Plain  or  with  Pi- 
quante  sauce).  Cut  the  bacon  into  small  dice, 
fry  fairly  well  done,  pour  off  the  fat,  pour  in  a 
ladle  of  eggs,  mix  and  form;  served  with  a  sprig 
of  green,  or  with  Piquante  sauce  at  the  ends. 

OMELET  WITH  VEAL  KIDNEYS— Roasted 
kidneys  cut  in  dice  and  made  hot  in  a  little 
demi-glaze  with  chopped  parsley,  enclose  the 
mixture  within  the  omelet;  serve  with  a 
Madeira  sauce  poured  around. 

OMELET  WITH  CEPES— Cut  the  cfepes  into 
dice,  fry  in  butter  for  a  few  minutes,  pour  off 
the  butter,  add  a  ladle  of  eggs,  form  and  serve 
with  a  little  Italian  sauce  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  CHEESE— Mix  grated  cheese 
with  the  beaten  eggs  in  proportion  of  one-third 
cheese  to  two-thirds  eggs,  form  the  omelet; 
when  placed  on  the  serving  dish  sprinkle  a  lit- 
tle grated  cheese  on  top  of  the  omelet  and 
brown  off  quickly  in  oven  or  under  a  salaman- 
der. 

OMELET  WITH  CHICKEN  LIVERS— Blanch 
the  livers,  then  cut  in  dice,  fry  them  lightly 
with  butter,  minced  shallots  and  mushrooms 
for  ten  minutes,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
chopped  parsley,  enclose  a  spoonful  within  the 
omelet  while  forming;  served  with  Hanover 
sauce  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  CHIPPED  BEEF  —  Scald, 
drain  and  mince  the  dried  beef,  mix  it  with  the 
eggs,  form  the  omelet;  serve  with  cream  saac« 
poured  around. 


ii6 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


OMELET   WITH    HAM— Cooked  minced  ham 
moistened  with  Madeira  sauce  enclosed  within 
the  omelet.     2.  Raw  minced  ham  with  a  little 
minced  shallot  and  parsley  fried  till  done,  ladle 
of  eggs  poured  in,  formed  and  served.  3,  Minced 
fried  ham  beaten  up  with  the  eggs,  poured  into 
the  omelet  pan,  formed  and  served. 
OMELET  WITH  LAMB  KIDNEYS— Cut  the 
kidneys  into  small  dice  and  fry    them  with 
minced  shallots  in  butter  for  three  minutes,  add 
a  little  Madeira  sauce  and  chopped  parsley, 
enclose  a  spoonful   within   the    omelet  while 
forming;   serve  with    Madeira    sauce    poured 
around.     2.  Stew  the  kidneys  in  a  sherry  wine 
flavored  brown   sauce,    season   well  with  red 
pepper  or  a  minced  red  pepper;  when  done, 
strain  the  sauce  on  to  some  unsweetened  apple 
sauce  passed  through  a  fine  sieve;  into  the 
beaten  eggs  put   some  finely  chopped  green 
mint,  enclose  a  spoonful  of  kidneys  within  the 
omelet  while  forming;  serve  with  plenty  of  the 
sauce  poured  around. 
OMELET  WITH  SWEETBREADS-- Cooked 
sweetbreads  cut  in  dice,  simmered  in   mush- 
room  sauce,  a  spoonful  enclosed    within   the 
omelet  while  forming;  served  with  mushroom 
sauce  poured  around. 
OMELET    WITH   MUSHROOMS— If  fresh 
mushrooms,  peel  them,  trim,  cut  into  dice  and 
fry  with  butter;  if  canned,  cut  them  in  thin 
slices  and  fry,   drain,    then    mix    them    into 
Madeira  sauce;  enclose  a  spoonful  within  the 
omelet;  serve  with  a  spoonful  of  mushrooms  in 
sauce  at  the  ends  of  the  omelet. 
OMELET    WITH    SHRIMPS,    MEXICAN 
STYLE  —  Take     fresh     cooked     or     canned 
shrimps,  cut  in  halves,   mix  with  some  finely 
chopped  green  peppers,  put  them  into  a  VM- 
outfe  sauce  containing  some  lobster  butter,  sim- 
mer for  five  minutes,  enclose  a  spoonful  within 
the  omelet,  turn  on  to  the  serving  dish,  place  two 
whole  shrimps  on  top,  and  pour  some  of  the 
sauce  around. 
OMELET  WITH  FINE  HERBS— Beat  up  with 
the  eggs  some  finely  minced  shallots,  thyme 
marjoram,  chervil,  chives  and  parsley,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,   form   the  omelet,  and 
serve  plain  or  with  fine  herbs  sauce  poured 
around. 
SPANISH    OMELET  —  Finely    shred    onions, 
minced  green  peppers,     minced    mushrooms, 
solid   tomatoes   with  the  juice  and  seeds  ex- 
pressed,  cut  in  small  pieces,  the  whole  fried 
with  butter  for  five  minutes,    then  add  tomato 
sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  reduce  till 
thick,   enclose  a  spoonful  within  the  omelet, 
turn  on  to  the  serving  dish,   garnish  the  top 
with  fancy  strips   of  pimentoes  and  place  a 
spoonful  of  the  mixture  at  each  end  of  the 
omelet. 


OMELET  WITH  SPINACH— Beat  some  pure^ 
of  spinach  with  the  eggs,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  form  and  serve. 
OMELET  WITH  PARSLEY— Mix  some  finely 
chopped  parsley  with  the  beaten  eggs,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  form  and  serve  plain  or 
with  V^lout^  sauce  at  the  sides. 
OMELET  WITH  TOMATOES— Stew  fresh  or 
canned  tomatoes  with  a  little  butter,  sugar, 
salt  and  pepper  till  of  a  thick  pulp,  enclose  a 
spoonful  within  the  omelet;  serve  with  tomato 
sauce  poured  around. 
OMELET   WITH   TOMATOED    RICE— Take 
some  boiled  rice  grains  and  moisten  them  with 
a  good  tomato  pure6,  enclose  some  within  the 
omelet;  serve  with  tomato  pure6  poured  around. 
OMELET  WITH   OYSTERS —Scald   the  oys- 
ters, cut  them  in  quarters,   place  them  into  a 
rich  thick  oyster  sauce,  enclose  a  spoonful  with- 
in the  omelet,  turn  on  to  the  serving  dish,  place 
three  whole  scalded  oysters  on  top,  pour  some 
oyster  sauce  over  the  whole  and  sprinkle  with 
parsley  dust. 
OMELET    WITH    FRENCH    OR     SMALL 
GREEN  PEAS — Simmer  some  peas  in  reduced 
Vfeloutfe  sauce  with  a  little  minced  green  mint, 
till  thick,  enclose  some  within  the  omelet,  turn 
on  to  the  serving  dish,  garnish  each  end  with 
more  of  the  peas  and  the  sides  with  cream 
sauce. 
OMELET  WITH  EGG  PLANT— Cut  the  egg 
plant  into  dice,  fry  it  with  butter,   when  done, 
add  a  little  meat  glaze,  enclose  within  the  ome- 
let; serve  with  a  good  brown  sauce  at  the  sides. 
OMELET  WITH  SPRING  VEGETABLES— 
Cut  a  jardiniere  or  macfedoine  of  vegetables  (or 
use  canned  ones)  boil  till  tender,  drain,  moisten 
with  a  little  demi  glaze  or  sauce  Supreme,  en- 
close within  the  omelet,  turn  on  to  the  serving 
dish,  decorate  the  top  of  omelet  with  more  of 
the  vegetables  and  pour  some  of  the  sauce 
around. 
OMELET  WITH  ASPARAGUS  POINTS-Take 
cooked   asparagus   tips,    reheat  them  in  Alle- 
mande  sauce,  enclose  within  the  omelet,   turn 
on  to  serving  dish,  decorate  the  top  with  more 
tips,  and  serve  with  Allemande  sauce  at  the 
sides. 
OMELET  WITH    OLIVES  —  Stufifed  o  1  i  v  e  s 
sliced,  heated  in  a  rich  Madeira  sauce,  enclosed 
within  the  omelet,  turned  on  to  serving  dish, 
the  top  of  omelet  decorated  with  slices  of  stuffed 
olives;  served  with  Madeira  sauce  at  the  sides. 
OMELET    WITH    ONIONS— Fry  some  thin 
slices  of  onions  with  a  clove  of  garlic  in  butter, 
enclose  within  the  omelet;  serve  with  Souflbise 
sauce  at  the  sides. 
OMELET  WITH  MINCED  CHICKEN— Take 
minced  cooked  chicken,  moisten  it  with  V^l- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


X17 


outfe  sauce,  make  hot,  enclose  within  the  ome- 
let; serve  with  VMout^  sauce  at  the  sides. 

CREOLE  OMELET— Chopped  green  peppers, 
onions,  garlic,  okras  and  a  little  boiled  rice, 
made  hot  in  a  thick  tomato  sauce,  enclosed 
within  the  omelet;  served  with  a  spoonful  of 
the  mixture  at  the  sides. 

ALGERIENNE  OMELET— Rissoto  moistened 
and  reheated  with  tomato  puie^,  enclosed  with- 
in the  omelet;  served  with  tomato  pure6  at  the 
sides. 

OMELET  WITH  TRUFFLES— Slices  of  truf- 
fles moistened  with  truffle  sauce,  enclosed  with- 
in the  omelet;  served  with  truffle  sauce  at  the 
sides. 

OMELET  WITH  PUREfi  OF  GAME— A  rich 
game  pure6  is  enclosed  within  the  omelet; 
served  with  game  sauce  at  the  sides. 

I^DIAN  OMELET— Minced  onion  lightly  fried 
then  mixed  with  the  beaten  eggs,  adding  a 
seasoning  of  curry  powder  and  a  spoonful  of 
thick  cream,  boiled  rice  enclosed  within  the 
omelet;  served  with  curry  sauce  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  CHICKEN  PURE£— A  rich 
pure6  of  chicken  enclosed  within  the  omelet; 
served  with  Vfelout^  sauce  at  the  sides. 

MILANAISE  OMELET— Boiled  macaroni 
chopped  fine,  mixed  with  Parmesan  cheese  and 
a  spoonful  of  tomato  pure^,  enclosed  within  the 
omelet;  served  with  Milanaise  sauce  at  the 
sides. 

OMELET  WITH  SHRIMP  PASTE— Omelet 
spread  with  shrimp  paste  just  before  forming; 
served  with  shrimp  sauce  at  the  sides. 

SHRIMP  OMELET— Chopped  shrimps  in  Au- 
rora sauce  enclosed  within  the  omelet,  turned 
on  to  the  serving  dish,  the  top  decorated  with 
coiled  shrimps;  served  with  Aurora  sauce  at  the 
sides. 

OMELET  WITH  SCALLOPS-Scallops blanched 
then  fried  with  butter,  cut  in  dice,  moistened 
with  Bechamel  sauce,  enclosed  within  the  ome- 
let; gerved  with  the  top  decorated  with  a  whole 
Tried  scallop,  Bechamel  sauce  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  FINANCIERE— A  spoonful  of  finan- 
ci^re  garnish  enclosed  within  the  omelet;  served 
with  some  more  of  the  garnish  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  CALF'S  HEAD— Useful  to 
use  up  the  remains  of  entree  "Calf's  head,  tur- 
tle style".  Cut  the  meat  small,  enclose  within  the 
omelet;  served  with  more  of  the  garnish  at  the 
sides. 

OMELET  WITH  CAPON— Cold  capon  cut  in 
dice  and  moistened  with  V^loutfe  sauce,  enclosed 
within  the  omelet;  served  with  Supreme  sauce 
at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  CALF'S  BRAINS— Scalded 
and  trimmed  calf's  brains  cut  in  dice  and 
moistened  with  HoUandaise  sauce,    enclosed 


within  the  omelet;  served  with  some  HoUan- 
daise sauce  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  TURKEY  LIVERS— Braised 
turkey  livers  cut  in  scallops  and  moistened 
with  fine  herbs  sauce,  enclosed  within  the 
omelet;  served  with  more  of  the  sauce  at  the 
sides. 

OMELET  WITH  ANCHOVIES— Filleted  an- 
chovies cut  in  shreds,  moistened  with  Aurora 
or  Genevoise  sauces,  enclosed  within  the  ome- 
let; served  with  the  sauce  used  at  the  sides,  the 
top  of  the  omelet  to  be  garnished  with  strips  of 
the  anchovies  in  lattice  work  form. 

OMELET  WITH  FOIE-GRAS— Foie-gras  cat 
in  dice  with  a  little  chopped  truffle  peelings, 
moistened  with  Madeira  sauce,  enclosed  with- 
in the  omelet;  served  with  Madeira  sauce  at  the 
sides,  the  top  of  the  omelet  to  be  decorated 
with  a  slice  each  of  foie-gras  and  truffle. 

OMELET  CHIPOLATA— A  spoonful  of  chipo- 
lata  garnish  (see  garnishes),  enclosed  within 
the  omelet;  served  with  Madeira  sauce  at  the 
sides,  the  ends  of  the  omelet  to  be  garnished 
with  Parisienne  potatoes. 

OMELET  WITH  JELLY— With  the  omelet 
mixture  add  a  spoonful  of  cream  and  a  very 
little  sugar;  before  starting  to  roll  the  omelet, 
spread  with  jelly,  then  roll  it  up;  when  turned 
on  the  serving  dish,  dust  with  powdered  sugar, 
mark  the  top  in  lattice  work  style  with  a  red  hot 
wire,  place  a  little  more  jelly  at  the  sides  and 
serve. 

OMELET  WITH  MERINGUE— Little  cream 
and  sugar  mixed  with  the  beaten  eggs,  before 
rolling,  spread  with  jam,  then  form;  when  on  the 
serving  dish,  spread  with  meringue,  decorate 
the  meringue  with  point  of  knife,  place  in  oven 
till  of  a  delicate  fawn  color  and  serve  at  once. 

OMELET  WITH  CUSTARD  CREAM— Little 
cream  and  sugar  mixed  with  the  beaten  eggs,  a 
spoonful  of  rich  custard  cream  enclosed  within 
the  omelet,  turned  on  to  the  serving  dish;  served 
with  a  little  apricot  pure^  at  the  sides. 

OMELET  WITH  MARMALADE— Little  cream 
and  sugar  mixed  with  the  beaten  eggs;  before 
rolling,  spread  with  fruit  marmalade,  form, 
place  on  serving  dish,  dust  with  powdered 
sugar,  then  place  in  hot  oven  to  glaze,  or  glaze 
with  a  salamander. 

OMELET  WITH  RUM— Little  cream  and  sugar 
mixed  with  the  beaten  eggs,  omelet  formed, 
turned  on  to  the  serving  dish,  dusted  with 
powdered  sugar,  marked  with  a  red  hot  wire, 
rum  made  warm  and  poured  around  the  omelet; 
then  set  on  fire,  either  at  the  entrance  to  the 
dining  room  or  on  the  table  at  the  request  of 
the  guest. 

OMELET  SOUFFLE— One  teaspoonful  of  sugar 
to  each  egg,  yolks  and  whites  whipped  separ- 
ately,  the  sugar  and  a  teaspoonful  of  cream 


Ii8 


THE  CULINARY  HAiMDBOOK. 


/■ 


with  the  yolks,  then  all  stirred  together,  poured 
into  oval  dish  or  pan,  baked  partly  on  top  of 
the  range,  then  finished  in  oven;  when  nicely 
puffed,  dust  with  powdered  sugar,  and  glaze 
with  a  salamander;  the  omelet  mixture  may  be 
flavored  with  most  any  liqueur  or  cordial. 

ONIONS  FRIED— Large  sized  onions  peeled, 
cut  in  fairly  thick  slices,  the  rings  then  separ- 
ated, seasoned  with  salt,  dipped  in  milk,  then 
shaken  up  with  flour  till  coated,  fried  till  done 
in  very  hot  deep  fat  like  French  fried  potatoes; 
when  done,  drained,  sprinkled  with  salt;  served 
plain  or  as  a  garnish. 

ONIONS  FRIED— Thinly  sliced  onions  fried 
with  butter,  bacon  fat,  beef  dripping,  etc.,  till 
well  done  and  brown,  surplus  fat  then  poured 
off;  used  as  a  garnish  to  steaks. 

ONIONS  IN  CREAM  SAUCE  — Small  onions 
peeled,  boiled  in  salted  water  till  tender,  taken 
up  and  drained,  then  put  into  cream  sauce;  used 
as  a  vegetable. 

BOILED  ONIONS — Medium  sized  onions  peeled, 
boiled  well  done  in  salted  water,  taken  up  and 
well  drained,  kept  very  hot;  served  with  a  spoon- 
ful of  melted  butter  poured  over  them;  used  as 
vegetable. 

CREAMED  ONIONS  —  Small  button  onions 
peeled,  steamed  till  tender,  drained,  then  put 
into  a  Poulette  sauce;  served  as  a  garnish  or 
vegetable. 

BAKED  ONIONS  STUFFED  —  Large  onions 
peeled,  steamed  till  nearly  done,  centres  re- 
moved in  ONE  PIECE  which  can  be  used 
the  following  day  for  the  recipe  preceding,  the 
aperture  filled  with  sausage  meat,  baked  and 
basted  till  brown  and  glazy;  served  with  a 
little  meat  gravy  poured  around. 

ONIONS  ON  TOAST— Onions  steamed  till  very 
well  done,  then  mashed  through  a  colander  or 
tamis,  seasoned,  simmered  with  meat  gravy; 
fancy  cut  slices  of  toast  then  spread  thickly 
with  the  onions  and  served  very  hot,  (a  good 
thing  for  a  cold  on  the  chest). 

STEWED  ONIONS— Onions  cut  in  quarters, 
steamed  till  half  done,  then  simmered  in  a  pars- 
ley butter  sauce  till  done;  served  as  a  vegetable. 

BRAISED  ONIONS  — Medium  sized  onions 
peeled,  blanched,  drained,  arranged  in  a  pan 
or  brasiere,  baked  and  basted  with  slices  of 
bacon  and  its  fat  till  brown  and  glazy;  served 
as  a  garnish  or  vegetable. 

ONION  SAUCE— Well  boiled  onions  mashed 
through  a  tamis,  slightly  moistened  with  sauce 
made  from  mutton  stock;  to  be  served  with 
boiled  mutton. 

ONION  SAUCE— Onions  peeled  and  parboiled, 
then  cut  up  small  and  blanched  again,  then 
allowed  to  simmer  in  a  white  sauce  if  to  be 
served  with  boiled  meat,  and  in  a  brown  sauce 
if  to  be  served  with  roast  or  braised  meat. 


GLAZED  ONIONS— Peeled  onions  of  a  uniform 
size  arranged  in  a  shallow  sautoir,  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper  and  sugar,  slightly  moistened 
with  stock,  covered  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  simmered  till  done  and  brown,  and  the 
liquor  to  a  glaze. 

ONION  PURE£  — Onions  peeled,  blanched, 
drained,  chopped,  placed  in  a  sautoir  with  but- 
ter and  lightly  fried  without  color,  flour  then 
added  to  form  a  roux,  moisten  with  white  or 
brown  stock  according  to  whether  it  is  to  be 
served  with  boiled  or  roast  meat,  simmer  till 
very  tender,  season  with  salt  and  a  little  sugar, 
then  rub  the  whole  through  a  tamis. 

PICKLED  ONIONS— Small  button  onions  peeled, 
placed  in  crocks,  boiling  brine  poured  over 
them,  allowed  to  stand  for  24  hours,  brine  then 
drained  off,  onions  then  covered  with  scalding 
hot  (not  boiling)  cider  vinegar  spiced  to  taste 
with  mace,  chilies,  whole  peppers  and  a  little 
horseradish. 

ONION  VINEGAR— Two  quarts  of  white  wine 
vinegar,  one  dessert  spoonful  of  salt,  two  dessert 
spoonfuls  of  granulated  sugar,  two  pounds  of 
peeled  Spanish  onions;  grate  the  onions,  mix 
them  with  the  sugar  and  salt,  allow  to  macerate 
for  three  hours,  then  pour  over  the  vinegar;  fill 
fruit  jars  %  full,  screw  the  lid  on,  shake  well 
every  day  for  a  couple  of  weeks,  then  strain 
off  through  cheese  cloth,  fill  into  bottles  and 
cork  tight;  this  is  very  useful  when  a  delicate 
onion  flavor  is  desired  with  mayonnaise,  salads, 
etc. 

ONION  SALAD— Take  either  the  Bermuda  or 
Spanish  onion,  peel,  slice  in  rings  %  of  an 
inch  thick,  steam  till  half  cooked,  let  become 
very  cold;  serve  on  lettuce  leaves  with  Ravigote 
sauce. 

ONION  SOUP  WITH  CRUSTS— Make  a  thin 
cream  of  chicken  soup,  thinly  slice  half  a  pound 
of  onions  to  each  gallon  of  soup,  fry  them  with 
butter  to  a  golden  color,  then  add  them  to  the 
soup  and  simmer  for  ten  minutes;  served  with 
a  small  unsweetened  rusk  to  each  plate. 

PUREfi  OF  BERMUDA  ONIONS— Bermuda 
onions  lightly  fried  with  butter  and  little  sugar, 
flour  added  to  form  a  roux,  moistened  with 
chicken  stock,  simmered  till  done,  the  whole 
then  rubbed  through  a  tamis,  and  added  to  Y^ 
of  its  bulk  of  cream  or  cream  sauce;  served 
with  croutons. 

A  variation  of  the  above  recipe  is,  after  it  is 
passed  through  the  tamis,  place  it  back  on 
the  range,  bring  to  the  boil,  then  add  a  rich 
liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream,  finish  with  a 
little  very  finely  chopped  parsley, 

ONION  SOUP  WITH  CHEESE  CANAPES— 
A  cream  soup  made  of  white  stock  with  plenty 
of  minced  onions  boiled  in  it  till  very  tender, 
adding  a  little  chopped  parsley;   fancy  cut  slices 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


119 


of  toast  spread  with  cheese  and  melted  on  in    ORANGE  PIE— One  dozen  sound  oranges  cut 


the  oven,  one  in  each  plate,  the  soup  poured 
over  it  and  sent  to  table. 

BROWN  ONION  PUREfe— Fried  onions,  flour 
added  to  form  a  roux  and  browned,  moistened 
with  roast  veal  gravy  and  stock,  the  whole  then 
rubbed  through  a  tamis;  served  with  croutons. 

ONION  PUREfi  WITH  FISH  QUENELLES— 
Make  the  white  "Pure6  of  Bermuda  onions"  of 
a  preceding  recipe,  and  serve  with  quenelles  of 
fish  that  may  be  on  hand. 

BUTTON  ONION  SOUP  WITH  PEAS  — A 
cream  of  chicken  soup  with  plenty  of  very  small 


into  thin  slices,  seeds  ^nd  cores  removed,  cov- 
ered with  six  quarts  of  water,  allowed  to  soak 
for  24  hours,  then  put  all  on  to  boil;  boil  slowly 
for  three  hours,  then  add  seven  pounds  of 
granulated  sugar,  and  boil  till  clear,  pour  off 
into  a  crock,  allow  to  set,  and  you  then  have 
the  filling.  Line  pie  plates  with  puff  paste 
trimmings,  making  a  raised  edge,  spread  well 
with  the  filling,  bake;  when  done,  spread  with 
an  orange  flavored  custard,  on  it  pipe  a  fancy 
meringue,  brown  quickly;  serve.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  delicious  pies  it  is  possible  to 
make. 


button  onions  boiled  in  it.  also  fresh  or  canned   qraNGE  MARMALADE-24  oranges,  8  lem- 


green  peas. 

OPOSSUM— A  Southern  animal  found  in  hollow 
trees,  hunted  for  by  trained  dogs,  is  killed, 
scalded,  scraped,  split,  skin  scored  like  a  suckling 
pig,  arranged  in  a  pan  surrounded  with  peeled 
and  split  sweet  potatoes,  roasted  and  basted  till 
done;  served  with  the  potatoes  and  corn  bread. 

ORANGE  JAM — Four  pounds  of  oranges,  one 
pound  of  lemons,  four  pounds  of  sugar,  one 
pound  of  butter,  32  yolks  and  4  whole  eggs. 
The  fruit  grated,  the  juice  extracted,  the  juice, 
sugar  and  grated  rinds  then  boiled  together, 
butter  melted  and  beaten  up  with  the  yolks  and 


ons;  oranges  peeled  and  the  pith  removed,  the 
peel  then  boiled  till  tender,  about  three 
hours,  changing  the  water  three  times,  the 
first  time  it  is  put  on  in  cold  water,  the  chang- 
ing time  in  boiling  water;  when  tender,  drain, 
shred  very  fine;  meanwhile  extract  every  drop 
of  juice  from  all  the  oranges  and  lemons,  meas- 
ure it,  then  add  one-fourth  of  its  bulk  of  clear 
water,  measure  it  again,  and  to  every  pint,  add 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  granulated  sugar, 
then  the  shredded  rinds,  bring  to  the  boil, 
skim,  then  continue  boiling  till  thick  enough  to 
set. 


eggs,    added  to  the  boiling  juice,   constantly   jellIED  ORANGES-Oranges    with  the  stem 


Stirring  till  of  a  jam  consistency;  used  for  pie 
filling,  layer  cake  spreading,  filling  darioles, 
cheesecakes,  patty-pan  tarts,  etc.,  etc. 

BAKED  ORANGE  PUDDING— Two  pounds  of 
stale  sponge  cake;  juice  of  8,  and  grated  rinds 
of  2  oranges,  i  cup  of  sugar,  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  6  beaten  eggs,  i  pint  of  milk. 
Boil  the  milk,  pour  it  to  the  sponge  cake,  whip 
it,  add  the  juice,  grated  rinds  and  other  ingre- 
dients, fill  into  molds,  bake;  serve  with  orange 
sauce. 

ORANGE  FRITTERS— Large  oranges  peeled, 
pith  removed,  pulled  into  quarters,  simmered 
for  five  minutes  in  boiling  syrup,  drained, 
dipped  in  frying  batter  (see  batters),  fried  in  hot 
deep  fat,  taken  up,  dusted  with  powdered  sugar; 
served  with  claret  sauce. 

COMPOTE  OF  ORANGES— Small  oranges  (the 
seedless  variety)  peeled,  pith  removed, blanched, 
drained,  blanched  again,  then  simmered  in  the 
left  over  syrup  of  the  preceding  recipe,  the 
peel  of  the  oranges  boiled  tenaer  in  two  or  three 
waters,  then  finely  shredded  and  added  to .  the 
syrup;  when  done,  allow  to  become  cold;  served, 
an  orange  decorated  on  top  with  the  shredded 
peel,  the  syrup  poured  around. 

CANAPE  OF  ORANGES-Oranges  peeled  and 
the  pith  removed,  pulled  apart  in  sections,  the 
sections  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  in  syrup, 
taken  up  and  arranged  on  fancy  shapes  of  bread 
that  have  been  fried  a  golden  brown  with  batter. 


end  cut  to  form  a  lid,  emptied  of  their  contents 
with  a  spoon,  the  shells  then  soaked  overnight, 
they  are  then  drained,  then  half  filled  with  a 
colored  fruit  jelly  and  allowed  to  set,  then  filled 
with  another  colored  fruit  jelly,  closed,  set 
away  in  ice  till  firm;  served  by  cutting  in  halves 
or  quarters,  and  arranging  on  serving  dish  with 
the  colors  alternating. 

ORANGE  SAUCE— Roast  duck  carcasses  boiled 
down  with  some  Espagnole  sauce,  then 
strained,  orange  juice  then  added  to  taste  for 
the  quantity  made,  finely  shredded  and  boiled 
rinds  then  added.  [The  natural  sauce  for  roast 
domestic  ducks] . 

ORANGES  WITH  RICE— Quartered  and  peeled 
oranges  with  the  pith  and  seeds  removed, 
boiled  in  syrup  till  tender,  the  syrup  then 
thickened  with  corn  starch  and  allowed  to  sim- 
mer till  clear;  when  done,  add  a  little  maras- 
chino; to  serve,  dry  boiled  rice  grains  arranged 
as  a  border  on  an  oval  platter,  the  rice  sprink- 
led with  finely  chopped  pistachio  nuts,  the 
oranges  and  sauce  in  the  centre,  (this  is  always 
an  acceptable  sweet  entree). 

ORANGE  TRIFLE— Slice  of  orange-flavored 
sponge  cake  spread  with  marmalade,  this  spread 
with  custard,  the  custard  piped  with  whipped 
cream,  the  edges  sprinkled  with  finely  choppea 
pistachio  nuts. 

ORTOLAN— A  very  small  game  bird,  a  native  of 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Southern  Europe.  Our  rice  bird  does  duty  for 
it  here  generally. 

ORTOLANS  IN  CROUSTADE— T  h e  bird 
plucked  and  singed,  neck  and  gizzard  only  of 
the  inside  removed,  season  with  nutmeg,  salt 
and  pepper;  large  truffles  hollowed  out,  the 
bird  placed  in  the  truffle,  arranged  in  a  sautoir, 
with  bacon  over  the  breasts,  moistened  with  a 
mirepoix  and  some  Madeira  wine,  cooked  about 
twenty  minutes,  taken  up  and  placed  in  a  fancy 
bread  croiistade;  reduce  the  sauce  in  sautoir  to 
a  demi-glaze,  remove  the  bacon,  mask  with  the 
glaze;  serve  surrounded  with  watercress. 

ORTOLANS  IN  CASES— Make  (or  use  the 
bought  ones)  a  fancy  paste  croflstade  case,  line 
it  with  foie-gras;  ortolans  plucked  and  singed, 
feet,  beak  and  skin  of  head  removed,  truss, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  place  one 
in  each  lined  case,  cover  with  a  strip  of  fat 
bacon,  roast  in  moderate  oven  about  20  min- 
utes, remove  the  bacon;  serve  with  a  spoonful 
of  Madeira  sauce  over  the  bird. 

BROILED  ORTOLANS— Pluck  and  singe  the 
birds,  wipe  with  a  damp  cloth,  remove  beak 
and  feet,  truss,  but  do  not  draw,  season  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  wrap  in  a  buttered 
paper  case,  broil  over  a  raked  clean  space  of 
the  grill,  in  ten  minutes  the  bird  will  be  done; 
serve  with  the  paper,  surrounded  with  water- 
cress, paper  to  be  removed  by  waiter  at  the 
guest's  request,  just  as  about  to  be  eaten. 

ROAST  ORTOLANS— The  birds  plucked  and 
singed,  wiped,  slit  made  in  the  side  and  the 
gizzard  removed,  cut  off  beak  and  feet,  skin 
the  head,  which  place  inside  where  the  gizzard 
was,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
wrap  around  each  a  thin  slice  of  bacon,  or 
wrap  each  in  a  vine  leaf  if  procurable,  roast 
about  ten  minutes;  serve  on  a  fancy  cut  slice  of 
bread  fried  a  delicate  brown  with  butter,  pour 
round  a  rich  Madeira  sauce. 

BROCHETTE  OF  ORTOLANS— Pluck,  singe 
and  wipe  the  birds,  remove  the  gizzard,  rub 
the  body  with  lemon,  then  roll  each  one  in  soft 
miitre  d'hotel  butter,  then  in  grated  bread 
crumbs  (not  cracker  dust),  then  thread  them  on 
a  skewer,  broil;  serve  on  toast  buttered  with 
the  drippings  from  the  broiling,  garnish  with 
lemon  and  watercress. 

FRIED  ORTOLANS— The  birds  plucked  and 
singed,  feet  and  beak  removed,  gizzards  drawn, 
head  skinned  and  placed  where  gizzard  was, 
rubbed  with  lemon,  dipped  in  m4itre  d'hotel 
butter,  then  in  grated  breadcrumbs,  then  in 
beaten  eggs  and  again  in  the  crumbs,  plunged  in 
boiling  hot  fat,  fried  ten  minutes;  served  with 
a  rich  brown  Italian  sauce. 

TRUFFLED  ORTOLANS— Pluck  and  singe 
the  birds,  remove  beak,  feet  and  gizzard,  skin 
the  head  and  place  where  gizzard  was,  arrange 


them  in  a  serving  casserole,  moisten  with  a  rich 
truffle  sauce  containing  plenty  of  sliced  truffles, 
bake  for  ten  minutes  in  a  quick  oven;  serve  in 
the  casserole. 

OX-TAIL  SOUP— Saw  the  tails  into  neat  pieces 
half  inch  thick,  soak  over  night  in  salted  water; 
with  a  large  sized  column  cutter  stamp  out 
slices  of  white  and  yellow  turnip,  carrot;  drain 
and  wipe  the  pieces  of  ox-tail,  then  saut6  them 
with  the  vegetables,  add  them  to  a  rich  brown 
stock  flavored  with  sweet  herbs  and  celery, 
simmer  till  tails  are  tender  and  gelatinous, 
then  thicken  the  soup  with  roux,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  port  wine  and  mushroom  cat- 
sup. ' 

CLEAR  OX-TAIL  SOUP— A  consomm^  of  rich 
brown  stock  made  with  roast  meat,  poultry  and 
a  flavor  of  ham,  in  which  is  slices  of  ox-tail  and 
vegetables  as  in  the  preceding  recipe,  finish 
with  a  flavoring  of  port  wine. 

HARICOT  OF  OX-TAILS— Tails  separated  in 
their  natural  joints,  the  large  end  split,  placed 
in  a  deep  sautoir  with  fat  from  the  stock  top- 
pings and  some  sliced  onions,  fry  a  nice  brown, 
stock  then  added  to  well  cover,  stewed  for 
about  three  hours,  then  taken  up,  the  stock 
strained  and  freed  from  grease,  the  tails  placed 
in  another  sautoir  with  slices  of  braised  carrot 
and  turnip,  sauce  made  from  the  strained 
stock,  then  poured  over  the  tails  and  vegeta- 
bles, season  with  salt,  pepper,  mushroom  cat- 
sup and  port  wine;  served  within  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  sprinkling  the  tails  with  finely 
chopped  parsley. 

CURRY  OF  OX-TAILS  Tails  separated  in  their 
natural  joints,  the  large  end  split,  lightly  fried 
with  onion,  then  taken  up  into  a  sautoir,  covered 
with  a  rich  curry  sauce,  simmered  till  tender; 
serve  within  a  border  of  boiled  grains  of  rice. 

SAUTfe  OF  OX-TAILS— Tails  separated  in  their 
natural  joints,  the  large  end  split,  seasoned 
with  powdered  mixed  herbs,  rolled  in  flour, 
saute^d  a  light  brown  with  butter,  taken  up  in- 
to a  sautoir,  covered  with  sauce  Robert,  sim- 
mered till  tender;  served  garnished  with  a 
braised  jardiniere  of  vegetables. 

OX-TONGUE  BOILED— Salted  ox-tongue,  put 
to  boil  in  cold  water  and  cooked  till  tender, 
according  to  size,  but  generally  about  three 
hours,  then  take  up  and  skin,  remove  the  bones 
from  the  root  and  trim  off  the  waste  fat,  then 
keep  hot  in  seasoned  broth;  to  serve,  cut  in  thin 
slices,  place  them  overlapping  each  other  down 
the  centre  of  the  dish,  first  dipping  each  slice 
into  a  jellied  gravy  or  demi-glaze,  then  garnish 
the  sides  with  either  a  pur^e  of  spinach,  flageo- 
let beans,  a  macfedoine  or  jardiniere  of  vegeta- 
bles, Brussels  sprouts,  pieces  of  cauliflower, 
stringless  green  beans  or  asparagus  points. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


BRAISED  FRESH  OX-TONGUE— Blanch  and 
trim  a  good  sized  tongue,   then  place  it  in  a 
braisiere  with  slices  of  carrot,  turnip,  celery 
onions,  a  few  cloves,  bay  leaf,  mace,  salt,  pep- 
per and  a  glass  of  cooking  brandy,   cover  with 
good  stock,  then  biaise  slowly  till  tender;  when 
done,   taken  up  and  placed  in  a  sautoir,   the 
braise  then  strained  and  skimmed,  then  mixed 
with  some  Madeira  sauce  and  reduced  to  half 
glaze,  this  is  then  poured  over  the  tongue  and 
kept  hot  in  it;  served  in  thin  slices  overlapping 
each  other  down  the  centre  of  dish,  covered 
with  the  glaze,  and  garnished  with  small  que- 
nelles or  croquettes  of  potatoes. 
SMOKED  OX-TONGUE,  GERMAN  STYLE— 
Smoked  tongue  soaked  over  night  in  cold  water, 
then  scrubbed,  parboiled  for  half  an  hour,  taken 
up  and  trimmed,  then  placed  in  a  sautoir  with 
well   washed   sauer-kraut,    onion    stuck    with 
cloves,  carrot  and  a  bunch  of  soup  herbs;  mois- 
ten with  stock,  lay  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  over 
the  top,  put  on  the  lid  and  place  in  a   medium 
oven,   cook  till  tongue  is   tender,   about  two 
hours,  take  up;  serve  in  thin  slices  with  Poiv 
rade  sauce,  flanked  with  the  sauer-kraut. 
BOILED    SMOKED    TONGUE,    SAUCE   PI- 
QUANTE— Smoked   tongue   soaked  overnight 
in  cold  water,   then  scrubbed,   put  to  boil  in 
cold  water,  cooked  till  tender,  taken  up,  skinned 
and  trimmed;  served  in  slices  with  Piquante 
sauce,  garnished  with  gherkins. 
BRAISED  FRESH  TONGUE,   SAUCE  ITAL- 
IAN—Fresh  ox-tongue    put    to    boil    in   cold 
water,  boiled  one  hour,  taken  up,  skinned  and 
trimmed,  then  larded  with  seasoned  strips  of 
fat  pork  and  lean  strips  of  ham,   arranged  in 
braisiere  with  sliced  vegetables,   herbs,   spices 
and  pieces  of  fat  bacon,  moistened  with  stock, 
braised  till  tender,    taken  up,    the  braise   re- 
duced, strained  and  skimmed,  then  added  to  a 
thick   rich   brown   Italian    sauce,     the  tongue 
served  in  slices  with  the  sauce  and  garnished 
with  sauteed  button  mushrooms. 
OYSTER    STEW— Bulk    oysters    (selects)     for 
hotels  when  served  for  dinners,  breakfasts,  sup- 
pers, luncheons,  and  catering  parties.     Counts 
for  restaurant  orders,  club  and  European  plan 
orders.      The  oysters  scalded    in    their    own 
liquor,    taken   up,    the    liquor    skimmed    and 
poured  back  to  the  oysters,  milk  brought  to  the 
boil;  bowl  or  serving  dish  containing  a  piece  of 
GOOD  butter,  salt,  dash  of  red  pepper;  oysters 
and  liquor  poured  to  it,    then   filled  up  with 
boiling  milk;  served  with  oyster  crackers:  a  dish 
of  finely  shred  cabbage  is   sometimes  served 
with  it- -but  why? 
CREAM    STEW  —  Prepared    as    above,    using 

cream  instead  of  milk. 
PLAIN  STEW— Same  as  oyster  stew  above,  us- 
ing more  oyster  liquor  and  no  milk. 


DRY  STEW — Same  as  preceding,  no  milk  and 
but  little  oyster  liquor. 

BOX  STEW  — Dry  stew  of  the  very  largest 
oysters  placed  on  a  slice  of  buttered  toast,  then 
boiling  cream  with  a  little  butter  poured  over 
the  whole. 

BOSTON  STEW— Simply  a  milk  stew  of  count 
oysters,  but  the  oysters  on  toast  as  in  box  stew. 

INDIAN  STEW— Box  stew,  but  using  equal 
parts  of  chicken  curry  sauce  with  the  cream. 

PHILADELPHIA  STEW— Very  large  oysters 
in  their  shells  placed  on  a  very  hot  grill;  mean- 
time scald  and  skim  some  oyster  liquor,  season 
it  with  salt,  red  pepper  and  butter;  when  the 
oysters  are  broiled,  remove  them  from  their 
shells,  place  them  in  the  boiling  liquor;  serve 
in  soup  plate,  garnished  with  strips  of  buttered 
toast. 

BROILED  SHELL  OYSTERS— Scrub  the  shells 
clean,  lay  them  on  a  very  hot  grill,  when  they 
open  their  shells,  take  them  up  and  remove  the 
flat  shell,  also  loosen  the  oyster  from  the  deep 
shell,  place  a  few  drops  of  melted  butter  or 
miitre  d'hotel  butter  on  each  oyster,  then 
serve  very  hot. 

BROILED  OYSTERS— Very  large  oysters  wiped 
dry,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  dipped  in 
flour,  arranged  between  a  wire  hinged  broiler, 
brush  with  melted  butter,  broil  till  done,  bast- 
ing with  butter  while  broiling;  serve  overlap- 
ping each  other  on  buttered  toast,  garnish  with 
cress  and  quartered  lemons. 

BROILED  OYSTERS  BREADCRUMBED— 
Same  way  as  the  preceding,  but  after  dipp  ng 
in  flour,  they  are  dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  then 
rolled  in  bread  (not  cracker)  crumbs. 

DEVILLED  OYSTERS  —  Oysters  s  c  a  1  d  e  d  , 
drained,  cut  in  squares,  the  liquor  with  a  little 
cream  made  into  a  thick  butter  sauce  with  an 
added  egg  yolk  or  two;  season  with  salt,  red 
pepper  and  chopped  parsley,  then  add  the  oys- 
ters, fill  into  large  deep  oyster  shells,  then 
strew  the  top  with  breadcrumbs  and  melted 
butter,  bake  off  a  delicate  brown  and  serve  very 
hot. 
PANNED  OYSTERS— Another  form  of  dry 
stew;  oysters  washed  and  drained,  very  hot 
frying  pan  with  a  little  melted  butter,  oysters 
thrown  in  and  shuffled  about  till  they  sizzle, 
turned  out  into  a  small  hot  soup  plate,  season 
with  salt  and  cayenne. 
ROAST  SHELL  OYSTERS-The  shells  scrubbed 
clean,  arranged  in  a  baking  pan,  placed  in  a 
very  hot  oven;  when  they  open,  remove  the 
flat  shell  and  loosen  the  oyster  from  the  deep 
shell,  place  a  little  melted  butter  in  each,  serve 
quickly  with  strip  of  hot  buttered  toast  aside. 
SCALLOPED  OYSTERS— Baking  pan  inch  and 
a  half  deep,  brushed  with  butter,  oyster  crack- 
ers rolled  fine  with  rolling  pin,   the  buttered 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


pan  well  lined  with  them,  oysters  drained,  laid 
all  over  the  rolled  crackers,  seasoned  lightly 
with  salt  and  pepper  (mixed),  then  well  cov- 
ered with  more  of  the  crackers,  this  then 
sprinkled  well  with  a  mixture  of  oyster  liquor, 
milk  and  melted  butter,  then  another  layer  of 
oysters,  season  as  before,  cover  with  the  rolled 
crackers,  moisten  well  with  the  mixed  liquors, 
bake  quickly  well  done,  but  a  delicate  brown; 
cut  out  in  squares;  serve  very  hot,  garnish  with 
cress  and  lemon.  [For  individual  orders  in 
scallop  shells,  they  should  be  prepared  the 
same  way] . 
STEAMED  OYSTERS  — Shell  oysters  well 
scrubbed,  placed  in  a  steamer,  turn  on  full 
steam,  time  three  minutes;  meantime  take  a 
small  deep  soup  plate,  in  it  have  melted  butter, 
salt  and  a  dash  of  red  pepper,   open  out  the 


bread  and  bacon,  fry;  serve  on  toast  with 
miitre  d'hotel  butter  and  quartered  lemon. 

CROUSTADE  OF  OYSTERS— Oysters  scalded 
in  their  own  liquor,  taken  up,  the  liquor  then 
added  to  equal  quantities  of  Velout6  and  an- 
chovy sauces,  reduce  till  thick,  then  add  the 
oysters,  fill  into  fancy  croiistades,  sprinkle 
over  the  tops  a  mixture  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  and  breadcrumbs,  bake  a  delicate 
brown  in  a  quick  oven  and  serve  on  hot  plate 
with  paper  doily. 

OYSTERS  BAKED  WITH  MUSHROOMS— 
Fricassee  the  oysters  and  mushrooms,  having 
the  sauce  thick,  fill  into  individual  molds  or 
shells,  sprinkle  the  top  with  mixed  cheese  and 
breadcrumbs,  bake  a  delicate  brown;  serve 
very  hot. 


oysters  and  their  liquor  into  it;  serve  very  hot    FRICASSEE   OF   OYSTERS— Oysters  scalded 


with  strips  of  buttered  toast. 

GLAZED  OYSTERS  ON  TOAST-Large  oysters 
wiped  dry,  saute^d  quickly  with  butter,  take  up, 
pour  the  liquor  from  the  saute^ing  into  a  rich 
Madeira  sauce,  adding  a  piece  of  glaze,  reduce 
this  rapidly  to  half  glaze;  have  the  serving 
platter  hot  with  strip  of  buttered  toast  down 
the  centre,  dip  the  oysters  into  the  half  glaze 
aud  arrange  them  overlapping  each  other  on 
the  toast,  garnish  with  cress  and  lemon. 

BACON  COATED  OYSTERS,  FRIED— Large 
oysters  wiped  dry,  very  thin  slices  of  parboiled 
bacon  rolled  round  the  oysters  and  pinned  with 
a  toothpick,  dipped  in  batter,  fried,  toothpick 
withdrawn;  served  with  tomato  sauce. 

SAUCE  COATED  OYSTERS,  FRIED— Large 
oysters  wiped  dry,  clipped  into  a  thick  Villeroi 
sauce,  allowed  to  set,  then  dipped  into  beaten 
eggs,  rolled  well  in  sifted  breadcrumbs,  fried  a 
golden  brown;  served  garnished  with  quartered 
lemon. 

OYSTERS  STUFFED  AND  BROILED— One 
pint  cf  egg  yolks  stirred  without  much  beating, 
poured  into  a  buttered  pan  and  steamed  till  set 
firm,  allowed  to  cool,  then  grate  them;  one 
pound  of  cooked  fat  salt  pork  minced  very  fine, 
added  to  the  grated  yolks  with  some  chopped 
parsley ;  season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper; 
five  dozen  large  oysters  wiped  dry,  slit  made  in 


till  plump  in  boiling  milk,  taken  up,  butter 
melted  in  sautoir  and  allowed  to  frizzle  with- 
out becoming  colored,  flour  then  added  to  form 
a  roux,  made  into  thick  sauce  with  the  milk, 
seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper,  lemon  juice  and 
a  dash  of  Harvey  sauce,  finished  with  a  liaison 
of  egg  yolks  and  cream.  Hot  serving  platter, 
buttered  toast  down  the  centre,  oysters  dipped 
in  the  sauce,  placed  overlapping  each  other  down 
the  toast;  served  with  more  of  the  sauce  at 
the  sides. 

BAKED  OYSTERS  WITH  CHEESE— Oysters 
wiped  dry,  then  rolled  in  sifted  breadcrumbs 
that  are  mixed  with  Parmesan  cheese  and 
chopped  parsley,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, moistened  with  little  white  wine;  arrange 
in  scallop  shell,  strew  with  more  cheese,  bake 
a  delicate  brown  and  serve  very  hot. 

FRIED  OYSTERS— Count  oysters  rolled  in 
cracker  dust  or  yellow  corn  meal,  then  in  beat- 
en eggs,  then  in  the  meal  again,  fried;  served 
with  quartered  lemon. 

FANCY  FRY-  Count  oysters  wiped  dry,  sea- 
soned with  mixed  salt  and  red  pepper,  dipped 
in  flour,  then  in  mixed  beaten  eggs  and  whipped 
cream,  then  in  sifted  breadcrumbs,  pressed 
slightly  between  the  hands,  fried  a  golden 
brown  with  butter;  served  with  quartered 
lemon  and  garnished  with  green  stuff. 


their  sides,  stuffed  with  the  mixture,  rolled  in    OYSTERS  BAKED  WITH  POTATOES— Large 


sifted  breadcrumbs,  then  rolled  in  melted  but- 
ter and  again  in  the  crumbs,  arrange  between 
a  wire  hinged  broiler,  broil  a  golden  brown, 
basting  with  butter;  serve  garnished  with 
quartered  lemon  and  fried  parsley. 
BROCHETTE  OF  OYSTERS— Mince  some 
thyme,  parsley  and  shallots  very  fine,  add  a 
little  salt  and  pepper;  wipe  large  oysters  dry, 
roll  them  in  the  herbs,  then  dip  in  beaten  eggs, 
then  in  sifted  breadcrumbs,  then  arrange  them 
alternately  on  a  skewer  with  pieces  of  sweet- 


oysters  wiped  dry,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. Duchesse  potato  mixture  rolled  out  thin, 
cut  out  in  diamond  shapes,  oysters  laid  in  the 
centre,  edges  folded  over  and  pinched  into 
shape,  arranged  in  a  buttered  baking  pan, 
brushed  over  with  beaten  egg,  baked  a  golden 
brown;  served  very  hot. 
OYSTER  LOAF— Small  French  rolls,  insides 
hollowed  out,  the  loaf  shell  then  fried  a  golden 
brown  with  butter,  the  interior  then  filled  with 
a  fricassee  of  oysters. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


123 


CURRIED  OYSiERS  —  Oysters  scalded  and 
drained,  curry  sauce  made  from  the  liquor, 
finished  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream. 
Rice  boiled  in  some  scalded  oyster  liquor; 
served  as  a  border  to  the  curried  oysters  in  the 
centre. 

BAKED  OYSTERS,  ITALIAN  STYLE— Maca- 
roni boiled  in  one  inch  lengths  in  oyster  liquor 
from  the  scalded  oysters,  Fricasee  sauce  made 
of  the  liquor  after  the  macaroni  is  drained. 
Buttered  baking  pan,  alternate  layers  of  the 
macaroni  and  oysters,  the  top  strewn  with 
mixed  grated  cheese  and  breadcrumbs,  dashed 
with  melted  butter,  sauce  then  poured  over, 
baked  till  set;  served  very  hot. 

OYSTERS  IN  CASSEROLE— Line  the  casserole 
with  Duchesse  potato  mixture,  fill  the  interior 
with  oysters  in  a  rich  Poulette  sauce,  bake 
lightly  and  serve. 

CREAMED  OYSTERS  ON  TOAST— Scalded 
oysters  placed  into  a  rich  cream  sauce,  then 
arranged  on  buttered  toast;  served  with  the 
sauce  poured  over. 

OYSTERS  WITH  CELERY— To  each  portion 


OYSTER  PATTIES— The  Suprgme  above  filled 
into  pu£E  paste  patty  shells. 

OYSTER  POT  PIE— The  Supreme  above,  keep- 
ing out  the  oysters  till  the  pie  is  finished,  i.  e., 
prepare  the  sauce, put  it  into  the  saucepan,  bring 
to  the  boil,  drop  light  dumplings  all  over  it 
close  together,  place  on  the  lid,  and  cook  till 
dumplings  are  done,  then  remove  the  centre 
one,  place  in  the  oysters,  replace  the  dumpling, 
keep  very  hot,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again;  this 
method  keeps  the  oysters  plump  and  tender; 
serve  with  a  sprinkling  of  chopped  parsley. 
Cod  and  oyster  pot  pie  may  be  prepared  the 
same  way,  and  is  useful  when  oysters  are  few 
and  you  have  some  cod  that  wants  using  up, 
such  as  the  shoulders  that  cannot  be  cut  into 
nice  steaks. 

EPIGRAMME  OF  OYSTERS— A  rich  Supreme 
as  above,  having  the  sauce  thick  enough  to  stay 
on  the  oyster  when  lifted  out;  arrange  them 
down  the  centre  of  the  serving  dish,  flanked 
with  neatly  fried  oysters;  serve  garnished  with 
triangle  shaped  pieces  of  buttered  toast,  the 
point  dipped  into  the  sauce,  then  into  lobster 
coral. 


of  oysters  allow  a  tablespoonful  of  mmced  white    „.„„_„  o  a  tt/-t?     ,^     i.       vi       u  j       j  j     • 

,  -^         ,  ^,  ,^ ,  .     „    OYSTER  SAUCE — Oysters  blanched  and  drain 

celery  and  the  same  of  sherry  wine,   saute  all  ■' 


together  with  butter,  season  with  salt  and  red 
pepper;  serve  on  toast  with  the  liquor  poured 
over. 

OYSTER  TOAST— Oysters  scalded  and  drained, 
then  pounded  to  a  paste  with  cream,  seasoned 
with  lemon  juice  and  red  pepper,  spread  on 
circles  of  brown  bread  toast. 

OYSTER  OMELET— Scald  the  oysters,  add  the 
liquor  'to  a  sauce  Normande,  reduce,  put  the 
oysters  into  the  omelet,  dip  two  of  them  into 
the  sauce  and  place  on  top,  then  pour  the  sauce 
around  the  omelet. 

SUPREME  OF  OYSTERS— Oysters  scalded 
and  drained,  the  liquor  strained  through  muslin 
and  added  to  a  rich  Veloute  sauce, brought  to  the 
boil,  piece  of  chicken  glaze  then  added,  then 
finish  by  adding  a  little  thick  cream  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  add  the  oysters;  serve  on 
toast. 

OYSTER  PIE— Diamond  shaped  pieces  of  puff 
pastry  %  of  an  inch  thick  when  baked,  split, 
the  under  side  laid  on  the  serving  platter,  the 
Supreme  above  laid  on  it,  the  upper  part  of  the 
pastry  laid  on;  served  immediately.  Another 
way,  take  the  Supreme  of  oysters,  add  some 
chopped  hard  boiled  eggs  and  parsley,  fill  in  to  a 
pie  dish,  cover  with  a  puff  paste,  bake  off 
quickly  without  letting  the  oysters  come  to  the 
boil  in  the  pie. 

r.CD  AND  OYSTER  PIE— The  Supreme  above 
with  the  addition  of  flakes  of  fresh  boiled  cod- 
fish, prepared  and  served  in  the  ways  given  for 
oyster  pie. 


ed,  liquor  strained  through  muslin,  brought 
to  the  boil,  a  butter  and  flour  roux  moistened 
with  the  boiling  liquor,  seasoned  with  salt,  red 
pepper  and  lemon  juice,  finished  with  some 
boiling  cream;  this  is  used  for  white  foods. 

OYSTER  SAUCE— For  brown  foods  such  as 
steaks,  fried  fish,  meat  pies,  oyster  pies,  roast 
turkey,  roast  capon,  etc.,  is  prepared  same  as 
the  preceding,  but  substituting  a  good  brown 
sauce  for  the  boiling  cream. 

STEAK  AND  OYSTER  PIE— Tender  pieces  of 
beef  cut  into  small  neat  pieces,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  salt,  quickly  saute^d  a  nice  color 
with  butter,  taken  up  and  placed  into  the  pie 
dish,  oysters  scalded  and  drained.  Into  the  pan 
the  beef  was  saute^d  in  add  a  little  more  but- 
ter, then  flour  to  form  a  roux,  moisten  with  the 
strained  boiling  liquor,  boil,  skim,  strain  over 
the  meat  and  let  simmer  till  meat  is  nearly 
done,  then  add  the  oysters,  some  good  brown 
sauce,  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice 
and  Harvey  sauce,  cover  with  puff  paste,  bake 
quickly;  serve  hot. 

OYSTER  CROQUETTES— Two  quarts  of  Se- 
lects or  Standard  oysters,  one  can  of  mush- 
rooms, the  liquor  of  the  mushrooms  poured  to 
the  oysters,  which  are  then  scalded  and  drained, 
the  scalded  liquor  then  sirained  through  mus- 
lin; mushrooms  minced  and  saute^d  a  golden 
color  with  butter,  taken  up,  flour  then  added  to 
form  a  roux,  thick  sauce  then  made  with  the 
boiling  liquor,  adding  a  little  cream  and  a  sea- 
soning of  salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  Anchovy 
and  Harvey  sauces,  the  chopped  oysters  and 


124 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


mushrooms  then  added,  boiled,  finished  to 
proper  thickness  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks 
and  cream;  turned  into  a  buttered  shallow  pan, 
smoothed,  covered  with  a  sheet  of  oiled  paper, 
allowed  to  become  firm  and  cold,  then  formed 
into  shape  of  sausages,  breaded,  fried;  served 
with  brown  oyster  sauce. 

OYSTER  CUTLETS  MINCED— The  croquette 
preparation  made  into  the  shape  of  rib  chops, 
breaded,  fried:  served  with  brown  oyster  sauce. 

OYSTER  RISSOLES— Crimped  circles  of  puff 
paste,  the  centre  containing  some  oyster  cro- 
quette mixture,  edges  then  folded  over  and 
pinched,  brushed  with  egg  wash,  baked. 

OYSTER  STUFFING— For  fish  and  poultry: 
oysters  blanched  and  drained,  cut  in  quarters, 
or  if  using  Standards,  leave  them  whole.  Moist 
stale  bread  grated  one  part,  rolled  oyster  crack- 
ers one  part,  the  third  part  of  oysters,  the 
whole  mixed  together  and  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper  and  chopped  parsley,  the  liquor  brought 
to  the  boil  with  an  addition  of  butter,  poured 
to  the  dry  mixture,  stirred,  then  ready  for  use. 

OYSTER  SOUP— Scald  the  oysters,  drain,  strain 
the  liquor  through  muslin,  bring  to  the  boil, 
season  with  salt,  red  pepper,  mace,  Harvey 
and  Anchovy  sauces,  flour  and  butter  roux, 
moistened  with  the  strained  liquor,  boiled  up, 
skimmed,  then  poured  to  an  equal  quantity  of 
Bechamel  sauce,  add  the  scalded  oysters;  serve 
with  oyster  crackers. 

OYSTER  SOUP-Oysters  and  their  liquor  scalded 
in  strong  fish  brolh,  taken  up  and  drained,  the 
liquor  strained;  a  can  of  mushrooms  opened, 
liquor  poured  to  the  broth,  the  mushrooms 
minced  with  some  shallots,  fried  with  plenty  of 
butter,  then  taken  up  and  added  to  the  scalded 
oysters;  flour  added  to  the  frying  butter  to 
form  a  roux,  this  then  thinned  to  soup  consist- 
ency with  the  boiling  broth,  season  to  taste, 
oysters,  etc.,  then  added  with  some  chopped 
parsley  and  a  glass  of  white  wine;  serve  with 
oyster  crackers. 

OYSTER  GUMBO— Minced  onions,  green  pep- 
pers and  ham  fried  with  plenty  of  butter,  then 
taken  up,  oysters  scalded  in  their  own  liquor 
and  fish  broth,  taken  up  and  drained,  half  a 
gallon  can  of  tomatoes  rubbed  through  a  fine 
sieve  then  added  to  the  strained  liquor  and 
boiled,  skimmed,  jflour  added  to  the  butter  to 
form  a  roux,  moistened  to  soup  consistency 
with  the  boiling  liquor  and  tomatoes,  seasoned, 
two  cans  of  okra  then  added  with  a  little  Doiled 
rice,  then  the  oysters  and  other  fried  ingredi- 
ents; served  with  oyster  crackers. 

OYSTER  SANDWICH— Three  or  four  dozen 
oysters  dried  with  a  cloth,  melted  butter  in  a 
frying  pan,  drop  in  the  oysters  and  saut^  them 
brown,  take  up,  chop  fine,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,    spread  on  hot   thin    buttered   toast, 


sprinkle  with  chili  sauce,  cover  with  another 
slice  of  toast,  trim  the  edges,  cut  across  and 
serve. 

BREADED  OYSTERS,  CELERY  SAUCE— 
Large  oysters  wiped  dry,  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  dipped  in  melted  butter,  then  in 
fresh  grated  breadcrumbs,  place  between  a 
wire  hinged  broiler,  broil  rapidly  a  delicate 
brown,  then  place  on  a  narrow  strip  of  hot 
fresh  buttered  toast;  serve  with  celery  cream 
sauce  poured  around. 

OYSTER  BOUCHEfiS- For  two  dozen,  blanch 
four  dozen  oysters  in  their  own  liquor,  take  up 
and  place  two  in  each  bouche^,  strain  the  liquor 
through  muslin,  add  its  equal  volume  of  rich 
tomato  pure^,  then  season  with  butter  and 
tabasco  sauce,  bring  to  the  boil,  keep  the 
bouche^s  hot,  and  when  serving,  fill  up  with 
the  boiling  sauce. 

OYSTER  PLANT,  FRIED— Scraped  clean  and 
laid  in  cold  water  containing  salt  and  a  little 
.  white  vinegar;  when  to  be  cooked,  first  boil 
tender,  then  take  up  and  drain,  dip  into  frying 
batter,  plunge  into  hot  fat,  fry  a  delicate  brown, 
take  up,  sprinkle  with  salt  and  serve  as  a  veg- 
etable. 

OYSTER  PLANT,  BOILED— P r  e  p a r  e  as 
above,  then  boil  tender,  take  up  and  drain, 
place  in  vegetable  steamer,  cover  with  cream 
sauce;  serve  as  a  vegetable. 

OYSTER  PLANT, SAUCE  POULETTE-Scrape 
clean,  cut  in  small  pieces,  lay  in  acidulated 
water  for  an  hour,  then  boil  till  tender  in  boil- 
ing water  containing  salt  and  and  a  little  white 
vinegar;  when  done,  taken  up,  turned  into  hot 
Poulette  sauce  and  served. 

OYSTER  PLANT  FRITTERS— Prepared  and 
boiled  as  above,  when  drained,  mashed  thor- 
oughly, then  seasoned  and  stiffened  with  salt, 
pepper,  yolk  of  egg  and  flour,  spoonfuls  then 
fried  in  hot  fat,  taken  up,  sprinkled  with  salt 
and  served. 

STEWED  OYSTER  PLANT— The  plant  pre- 
pared and  boiled  as  above,  then  stewed  in  a 
rich  meat  gravy  sauce;  served  on  hot  buttered 
toast. 

OYSTER  PLANT  SAUTfi— The  plant  prepared, 
boiled,  drained,  then  rolled  in  flour,  saute^d  a 
golden  brown  with  butter;  served  on  toast  with 
hot  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  poured  over. 

PANCAKES — Known  to  us  in  every  household 
"as  "batter  cakes".  For  recipes,  see  heading 
of  "batter". 

PARMESAN— Name  of  an  Italian  cheese;  see 
heading  of  "cheese". 

PARSLEY — A  garden  herb  used  as  a  garnish;  to 
ornament  dishes,  chopped  and  mixed  in  sauces, 
stews,  soups,  salads,  etc. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


125 


PARSNIP — A  root  vegetable,  peeled,  cut  in  finger 
lengths,  boiled  in  salted  water,  taken  up  and 
drained;  served  as  an  accompaniment  to  boiled 
salt  leg  of  pork. 

PARSNIPS,  CREAM  SAUCE— Boiled  in  finger 
lengths,  drained}  placed  in  cream  sauce;  served 
as  a  vegetable. 

PARSNIPS  FRIED  IN  BATTER— Boiled  in 
finger  lengths  in  salted  water,  taken  up  and 
drained,  dipped  in  batter,  fried  in  hot  lard, 
taken  up,  sprinkled  with  salt  and  served. 

PARSNIP  FRITTERS— Boiled,  mashed,  sea- 
soned and  stiffened  with  salt,  pepper,  yolks  of 
eggs  and  flour,  fried  by  spoonfuls  in  hot  lard, 
taken  up,  sprinkled  with  salt,  served. 

PARSNIP  SAUTEfiS— Boiled  tender  in  finger 
lengths,  drained,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, rolled  in  flour,  saute^d  a  delicate  brown 
with  butter,  taken  up,  sprinkled  with  chopped 
parsley  and  served. 

MASHED  PARSNIPS— Boiled  tender,  mashed, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  milk  and  butter; 
served  as  a  vegetable. 

BAKED  PARSNIPS— Peeled,  quartered, steamed 
till  nearly  done,  taken  up  and  arranged  in  a 
buttered  baking  pan,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  moistened  with  rich  gravy  and  butter, 
baked  tender  and  brown. 

PARTRIDGE  BROILED— Young  birds  split 
down  the  back,  breastbone  removed,  trussed, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  brushed  with 
olive  oil,  broiled  and  basted  well  done;  served 
on  buttered  toast  with  maitre  d'hotel  butter, 
garnished  with  jelly  and  parsley;  may  also  be 
garnished  with  slices  of  fried  hominy  or  bacon, 
or  after  broiling,  served  with  either  Colbert, 
Italian  or  Madeira  sauces. 

ROAST  PARTRIDGE— Young  birds  singed  and 
drawn,  wiped  with  towel,  trussed  with  a  slice 
of  fat  bacon  tied  over  the  breast,  roasted  about 
half  an  hour;  served  with  game  sauce  and  red 
currant  jelly. 

BOILED  PARTRIDGE— Singed,  drawn,  wiped 
and  trussed,  boiled  in  white  stock  till  tender; 
served  with  a  rich  cream  sauce. 

BOILED  PARTRIDGE,  GARNISHED— Part- 
ridges singed,  drawn,  wiped  and  trussed,  put  to 
boil  with  cabbage,  bacon,  pork  sausages, 
frankforts,  parsley,  white  stock  and  a  little 
sherry  wine;  when  tender,  taken  up,  the  meats 
also,  parsley  thrown  away,  cabbage  pressed 
dry,  then  chopped,  the  remaining  liquor  strained 
into  a  rich  game  sauce.  To  serve,  place  a 
spoonful  of  cabbage  in  centre  of  dish,  portion 
of  bird  on  it,  flanked  with  a  piece  of  bacon, 
sausage,  frankfort  (skinned),  sauce  poured 
over. 

PARTRIDGE  SAUTfe  —  Young  birds  singed, 
drawn,  wiped,  jointed,  seasoned  with  salt  and 


pepper,  saute^d  with  butter  a  delicate  brown, 
taken  up,  minced  shallots  then  added  to  the 
butter  with  button  mushrooms  and  fried; 
when  browned,  surplus  butter  poured  oflf,  part- 
ridge put  back,  covered  with  Espagnole,  boiled 
up  and  skimmed,  seasoned  with  Madeira  wine, 
simmered  till  tender;  served  garnished  with 
fancy  crofltons. 

SALMI  OF  PARTRIDGE— The  birds  singed, 
drawn,  wiped,  trussed,  roasted,  cooled,  quart- 
ered, the  back  and  breastbones  with  other 
trimmings  then  placed  in  some  Espagnole  with 
bacon,  minced  onion,  bay  leaf,  thyme  and 
crushed  peppers,  brought  to  the  boil  and  rap- 
idly reduced,  skimmed,  strained  over  the  birds 
in  another  sautoir,  seasoned  with  sherry  wine, 
simmered  a  few  minutes;  served  garnished  with 
croiitons. 

PARTRIDGE  LARDED  AND  BRAISED— The 
birds  singed,  drawn  and  wiped,  the  breasts 
larded,  trussed,  arranged  in  brasiere  with  slices 
of  root  vegetables  and  sweet  herbs;  place  a  few 
slices  of  bacon  on  top.  moisten  with  a  little 
stock,  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper, 
place  on  the  lid  and  put  in  a  slow  oven  to  cook 
in  its  own  steam  for  about  two  hours;  when 
done,  take  up,  add  a  game  sauce  to  the  liquor 
in  the  brasiere,  reduce,  strain,  flavor  with 
sherry  wine,  glaze  the  birds;  serve  with  the 
sauce. 

PARTRIDGE  SAUTfi  WITH  RISSOTO-Young 
birds  singed,  drawn,  wiped,  jointed,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  fried  lightly  with  butter, 
taken  up;  into  the  butter  they  were  fried  in, 
add  flour  to  form  a  roux,  moisten  with  game 
stock  made  from  the  backbones  and  trimmings, 
add  the  juice  and  a  little  of  the  grated  rind  of  a 
sour  orange,  put  in  the  fried  birds,  simmer 
slowly  till  tender;  served  with  a  border  of  ris- 
soto. 

BREAST  OF  PARTRIDGE  LARDED  AND 
FRIED — Take  the  breasts,  trim  and  lard  them, 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  thyme, 
dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  roll  in  freshly  grated 
breadcrumbs,  arrange  in  a  sautoir,  pour  over 
melted  butter,  placed  in  a  moderate  oven  and 
brown  nicely  on  both  sides;  serve  on  a  fancy 
crodton  with  a  little  Richelieu  or  Sultana  sauce 
poured  around. 

EPIGRAMME  OF  PARTRIDGE  WITH 
MUSHROOMS— Take  young  birds,  remove 
the  breasts,  lard  them,  bread  and  fry  as  pre- 
ceding one  half  of  them,  slowly  broil  the  re- 
maining half,  (so  that  you  have  one  plain  and 
one  breaded),  dish  up  one  of  each,  points  cross- 
ing each  other,  garnish  with  fried  mushrooms 
in  a  Fumet  sauce. 

BREAST  OF  PARTRIDGE,  SAUCE  COL- 
BERT—Take  the  breasts  of  young  birds,  lard 
them,  slowly  broil  them  till  done;  served  on 


126 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


bnttered  toast  with  sauce  Colbert  poured 
around. 

BREAST  OF  PARTRIDGE,  GLAZED  VEGE- 
TABLES—Take  the  breasts  of  young  birds, 
lard  and  roast  them.  With  an  half  inch  sized  col- 
umn cutter,  cut  inch  lengths  of  carrot  and  tur- 
nip, braise  and  glaze  them  together  with  but- 
ton onions,  use  them  as  a  garnish  to  the  breasts, 
and  pour  game  sauce  around. 

PARTRIDGE  BRAISED  WITH  CABBAGE— 
Take  old  birds,  braise  them  with  sliced  vege. 
tables  and  sweet  herbs  till  three  parts  done, 
take  up  into  a  sautoir,  add  cut  cabbage,  pour 
over  the  strained  liquor  they  were  braised  in, 
add  some  thin  slices  of  bacon  (if  not  enough 
liquor  add  some  white  stock),  simmer  till  done, 
lightly  thicken  the  liquor  with  flour  and  butter; 
serve  portion  of  bird  with  slice  of  bacon  on 
top,  cabbage  around,  and  a  little  game  sauce 
over  the  bird. 

PARTRIDGE  BREADCRUMBED  AND 
BROILED— Truss  the  bird  out  like  a  frog, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  twice  in  beat- 
en eggs  and  fresh  grated  breadcrumbs,  broil 
slowly  till  done  over  a  clear  fire;  serve  on  toast 
with  Italian  sauce. 

FILLETS'  OF  PARTRIDGE  WITH  CRAY- 
FISH— Take  the  upper  and  lower  fillets  from 
the  breasts,  trim  and  lard  them,  arrange  them 
in  a  sautoir  with  slices  of  bacon,  moistened  with 
little  stock  and  white  wine,  cover  with  a  sheet 
of  buttered  paper,  place  on  the  lid,  braise  in 
the  oven;  when  done,  glaze  them,  strain  and 
skim  the  braise,  then  add  it  to  an  Allemande 
sauce.  To  serve:  place  a  ragoiit  of  crayfish 
tails  in  centre  of  dish,  large  fillet  of  partridge 
at  each  end  with  points  meeting  over  the  rag- 
out, small  fillets  at  each  side,  points  upwards, 
sprinkle  over  all  a  little  lobster  coral,  and  pour 
the  sauce  around. 

FILLETS  OF  PARTRIDGE,  PARISIAN 
STYLE— Take  the  fillets  and  coat  them  with 
Allemande  sauce,  then  in  beaten  eggs  and  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  then  sprinkle  with  melted  butter 
and  press  on  a  little  more  of  the  crumbs,  saut^ 
them  of  a  golden  color  with  clear  butter,  when 
done,  take  up  and  drain;  meanwhile,  prepare  a 
ragout  of  crayfish  tails,  button  mushrooms, cocks 
kernels  and  small  truffles,  moisten  with  a  little 
game  glaze,  Allemande  sauce,  crayfish  butter 
atid  lemon  juice.  To  serve:  place  the  ragoflt 
in  centre  of  dish,  the  fillets  around  it,  decorate 
the  base  with  scallops  of  tongue,  and  serve 
some  more  of  the  sauce  from  the  ragofit  separ- 
ate. 

PARTRIDGE  WITH  BACON,  CELERY 
SAUCE— Take  old  birds  and  boil  them  with 
salt  pork,  carrots,  onions  and  turnips  in  white 
stock  till  tender;  serve  in  portions  with  a  slice 
of  the  pork  at  the  sides,  and  a  pure6  of  celery 
in  a  white  game  sauce  poured  over. 


PARTRIDGE  RISSOLES.  SAUCE  RICHE- 
LIEU—Make  a  croquette  mixture  with  cold 
cooked  partridge  and  game  sauce,  stamp  out 
crimped  circles  of  thin  puff  paste,  place  a  little 
of  the  mixture  in  the  centres,  fold  over  the 
edges  and  pinch  close,  fry  or  bake  them  of  a 
golden  color,  and  serve  with  a  Richelieu  sauce. 

EMINCE  OF  PARTRIDGE— Take  cold  roas«> 
partridge,  cut  in  broad  thin  slices,  simmer  it  in 
equal  parts  of  white  game  and  Godard  sauces; 
serve  on  toast,  garnished  with  saute^d  fresb 
button  mushrooms. 

SALPICON  OF  PARTRIDGE-Takecold  cooked 
partridge,  cut  the  meat  in  small  dice,  also  some 
truffles,  red  tongue  and  button  mushrooms,  cut 
same  size  as  the  bird,  mix,  moisten  with  either 
game,  Bfechamel  or  Supreme  sauces;  serve 
garnished  with  small  potato  croquettes. 

CROUSTADES  OF  PARTRIDGE— Take  cold 
cooked  partridge,  cut  the  meat  in  small  squares, 
simmer  it  in  a  rich  game  sauce,  then  add  a  rag- 
oflt  of  mushrooms,  cocks  combs  and  sweet- 
breads; serve  in  paste  croflstades,  garnish  with 
fancy  crofltons. 

HASHED  PARTRIDGE  WITH  EGG— Take 
cold  cooked  partridge,  cut  the  meat  in  small 
squares,  lightly  fry  it  with  butter,  add  flour  to 
form  a  roux,  moisten  with  game  stock,  simmer 
for  fifteen  minutes;  serve  on  toast  with  a 
trimmed  and  drained  poached  egg  on  top,  then 
garnish  the  ends  with  fancy  crofitons. 

PARTRIDGE  CROQUETTES,  SAUCE  PERI- 
GUEUX — Cold  cooked  partridge  minced,  thick 
game  sauce  heated,  partridge  worked  in,  stirred 
till  it  boils,  two  or  three  whipped  yoiks  of  egg 
may  be  worked  in,  turn  into  buttered  pan, 
smooth,  let  it  become  thoroughly  cold,  form  in- 
to shapes  of  corks,  bread,  fry;  serve  with  P^ri- 
gueux  sauce. 

PARTRIDGE  PATTIES— Prepare  the  mixture 
as  given  for  "croiistades  of  partridge",  fill  either 
into  patty  or  vol-au-vent  cases  and  serve. 

STEWED  PARTRIDGE— Old  birds,  lard  them, 
place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  a  piece  of  fat 
bacon,  sweet  herbs,  vegetables,  moisten  with 
white  wine  and  stock,  let  them  stew  slowly  till 
tender,  then  take  up  and  cut  into  quarters, 
strain  the  liquor  they  were  stewed  in,  skim  oflE 
the  fat,  reduce  it,  then  add  it  and  the  birds  to 
a  Chipolata  garnish  "(see  garnishes)",  serve 
the  bird  with  the  garnish  around. 

PARTRIDGE  SALAD-Cold  roast  birds  skinned, 
trimmed  into  neat  pieces,  moistened  with  one 
part  of  tarragon  vinegar  to  two  of  olive  oil, 
add  a  little  chopped  chervil  and  chives,  season 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  mix  all  together  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  Julienne  cut  celery  (like 
matches);  serve  on  a  bed  of  curly  endive,  garn- 
ish with  rings  of  hard  boiled  eggs  and  filleted 
anchovies. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


xa7 


PAUPIETTE— Name  given  to  a  thin  slice  of 
meat  spread  with  forcemeat,  rolled  up,  tied  at 
each  end,  stewed  with  meat  gravy;  the  house- 
hold name  for  them  is  "meat  olives". 

PEACH — One  of  our  choice  fruits,  the  two  var- 
ieties chiefly  used  in  hotel  life  being  the  "free- 
stone" for  dessert,  and  the  "clingstone"  for 
cooking  purposes. 

PEACHES  WITH  CREAM— Freestone  peaches 
skinned,  cut  in  slices,  sprinkled  with  powdered 
sugar,  covered  with  thick  cream  and  served. 

COMPOTE  OF  PEACHES— Halves  of  peaches 
skinned,  simmered  in  syrup  till  tender;  served 
cold  with  a  small  pitcher  of  cream  separate — 
may  also  be  served  hot  as  a  sweet  entree.  An 
improvement  to  the  syrup  is  to  take  the  kernels 
from  the  stones,  blanch  and  skin  them,  then 
boil  in  the  syrup. 

PEACH  AMBROSIA-Peaches  peeled  and  sliced, 
simmered  in  the  above  syrup  till  tender,  taken 
up,  arranged  in  centre  of  dish  flanked  with 
slices  of  peeled  and  pipped  oranges,  then 
cover  the  peaches  with  some  of  the  syrup,  and 
pipe  a  fancy  centre  over  them  with  whipped 
cream. 

PEACHES  WITH  RICE— Rice  boiled  in  sweet- 
ened milk  with  a  vanilla  bean  till  dry  in  grains; 
served  as  a  border  to  the  compote  of  peaches 
as  above. 

PEACHES  WITH  RICE  CROQUETTES-Rice 
boiled  very  tender  in  sweetened  and  flavored 
milk,  then  taken  up  and  whisked  till  creamy, 
set  with  the  addition  of  egg  yolks;  when  cold, 
made  up  into  two  forms  of  croquettes,  one  like 
a  small  egg  nest,  the  other  like  a  small  pyra- 
mid; bread  them  lightly,  fry  a  golden  color, 
depress  the  centre  of  the  egg  nest  shape,  and 
place  in  half  a  peach  from  compote,  pipe  the 
edge  with  peach  marmalade,  garnish  with  the 
pyramids,  decorating  the  point  with  whipped 
cream  and  chopped  pistachio  nuts,  pour  syrup 
from  the  compote  flavored  with  Madeira  wine 
around  the  base,  then  serve. 

PEACH  MARMALADE— Peaches  wiped  but  not 
pared,  halved,  stoned,  weighed;  to  each  pound 
of  fruit  allow  half  a  pound  of  sugar;  take  a 
porcelain  lined  kettle,  pour  in  just  enough 
water  to  cover  the  bottom,  then  put  in  the 
peaches,  place  on  the  lid  and  heat  slowly  to 
boiling  point;  then  stir  and  mash  the  fruit  till 
fine;  then  add  the  sugar  and  a  few  blanched 
and  pounded  kernels,  boil  up  again  and  con- 
tinue stirring  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  diaw  to 
a  cooler  part  of  the  range  and  let  simmer  for 
twenty  minutes  with  an  occasional  stir;  place 
in  stone  crocks  and  use  as  wanted. 

PEACH  BUTTER  —  Yellow  mellow  peaches 
peeled  and  stoned,  weighed;  to  each  pound  of 
fruit  allow  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
put  peaches  with  just  a  little  water  in  the  pre- 


serving kettle,  cover,  heat  slowly  to  boiling 
point,  whisk  till  thoroughly  mashed,  then  rub 
through  a  fine  sieve,  then  add  the  sugar, 
boil  up,  boil  and  stir  thoroughly  for  fifteen 
minutes,  fill  into  small  jars;  when  cold,  tie 
over  with  air-proof  paper. 

PEACH  JELLY— Two  gallons  of  pared  and 
sliced  peaches,  one  pint  of  water,  two  dozen  of 
the  kernels  blanched  and  pounded  and  mixed 
with  the  fruit,  put  all  into  a  stone  crock,  stand 
in  the  bain-marie,  cover  closely  and  let  boil  for 
an  hour,  stirring  till  the  fruit  is  well  broken, 
then  turn  into  a  jelly  bag  and  let  drip  thor- 
oughly; to  each  quart  of  juice  add  the  juice  of 
two  lemons  and  two  pounds  of  sugar,  bring 
quicky  to  the  boil,  then  boil  fast  for  twenty 
minutes,  skim  as  the  scum  rises,  roll  the  glasses 
in  boiling  water,  fill  with  the  boiling  jelly,  let 
cool  for  24  hours,  then  cover  with  air-proof 
papers;  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

SPICED  PEACHES— Twenty-eight  pounds  of 
peaches,  sixteen  pounds  of  granulated  sugar, 
two  quarts  of  white  wine  vinegar,  two  ounces 
of  bruised  ginger,  ounce  of  ground  cloves,  two 
ounces  each  of  ground  allspice  and  cinnamon 
and  half  an  ounce  of  ground  mace,  mix  all 
the  spices  together  and  fill  into  two  muslin  bags, 
tie  tight,  bring  the  sugar  and  vinegar  to  the  boil, 
put  in  the  spices,  then  the  peaches  peeled  but 
left  whole,  when  they  come  to  the  boil  again, 
remove  from  the  fire  and  carefully  place  them 
in  a  stone  crock,  allow  to  cool  overnight,  then 
pour  off  the  liquid  into  a  preserving  kettle, 
gradually  bring  to  the  boil,  then  pour  back 
over  the  fruit,  repeat  this  with  the  liquor  every 
day  for  ten  days  and  on  the  last  day  reduce  the 
liquor  till  there  is  only  just  enough  to  cover  the 
peaches,  then  place  the  crock  in  the  bain-marie 
and  bring  to  boiling  point,  fill  into  fruit  jars 
and  use  as  wanted. 

BRANDY  PEACHES —Large  firm  freestone 
peaches  placed  in  a  preserving  kettle  and  cov- 
ered with  boiling  water,  lid  then  put  on  and 
allowed  to  remain  till  the  water  becomes  cold, 
then  drain  off  the  water  and  repeat  with  an- 
other scalding  and  cooling,  then  take  each 
peach  out  of  the  cold  water  and  allow  to  drain 
and  dry  between  two  towels,  then  put  the  fruit 
into  small  stone  crocks  and  cover  with  brandy; 
cover  with  air-proof  paper  and  allow  to  macer- 
ate for  a  week;  at  the  week  end  take  out  and 
weigh  the  fruit;  to  each  pound  of  peaches  make 
syrup  of  one  pound  of  sugar  and  a  cupful  of 
water,  bring  to  the  Doil  and  skim,  then  put  in 
the  fruit  and  simmer,  when  tender,  take  out 
and  drain,  put  into  fruit  jars,  allow  the  syrup 
to  cool;  when  cold,  make  a  mixture  of  equal 
quantities  of  the  syrup  and  brandy,  pour  over 
the  fruit  in  the  jars,  seal  up,  keep  in  a  cool 
dark  place,  use  as  wanted. 


za8 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


BOTTLED  PEACHES-Ripe, large  juicy  peaches 
peeled  and  halved,  then  weighed;  to  each 
pound,  allow  one  pound  of  sugar.  Take  a  stone 
crock,  fill  it  with  alternate  layers  of  peaches 
and  sugar,  let  macerate  for  24  hours,  then  turn 
all  carefully  into  preserving  kettle  with  some  of 
the  kernels  blanched  and  skinned,  bring  rapidly 
to  the  boil,  then  simmer  till  the  fruit  is  tender 
and  the  syrup  clear,  take  up  gently  and  fill  in- 
to fruit  jars  without  breaking  the  halves,  allow 
the  syrup  to  become  cold,  then  pour  over  the 
peaches,  screw  on  the  covers,  use  as  wanted. 

PEACH  COBBLER— Shallow  buttered  baking 
pan  lined  with  a  good  short  paste,  halves  of 
peeled  peaches  filled  into  it,  covered  with 
powdered  sugar,  upper  crust  of  short  paste 
placed  on  and  pinched  down  at  edges,  egg 
washed  and  baked  in  a  medium  oven  for  half 
an  hour;  served  cut  in  squares  dusted  with 
powdered  sugar  and  a  small  pitcher  of  cream 
served  separately. 

PEACH  SHORTCAKE— Ripe  freestone  peaches 
peeled  and  chopped,  mixed  with  sugar  to  taste, 
shortcake  baked,  split,  the  peaches  then  spread 
between  and  on  top,  the  top  layer  then  piped 
with  whipped  cream;  served  cut  in  squares, 
with  or  without  a  separate  pitcher  of  cream. 

PEACH  CHARLOTTE— Buttered  baking  pan, 
slices  of  an  evenly  trimmed  stale  loaf  dipped  in 
melted  butter  and  arranged  around  the  sides 
and  bottom  of  the  pan  leaving  no  cracks,  peach 
marmalade  then  put  in  half  an  inch  thick,  cov- 
ered with  more  slices  of  the  bread,  brushed 
with  beaten  egg,  then  well  sprinkled  with  gran 
nlated  sugar,  baked  brown  and  glazy;  served 
with  or  without  sauce. 

PEACH  CROUTONS  WITH  GLAZED 
FRUITS — Sponge  cakes  baked  in  a  long  round 
mold;  when  one  day  old,  cut  into  slices  inch 
and  a  half  thick.  Compote  of  peaches,  the 
syrup  flavored  with  Kirschenwasser,  after 
peaches  are  done,  removed,  and  into  the  syrup 
is  put  pieces  of  angelica  with  other  "fruits 
glaces".  To  serve:  dip  the  slice  of  cake  in 
the  syrup,  on  it  place  the  fruit,  then  decorate 
with  the  "fruits  glaces"  finish  with  a  little  of 
the  syrup  poured  over. 

PEACH  CHARTREUSE— Ornamental  jelly 
molds,  fancy  slices  of  "fruits  glaces"  peach 
butter  stiffened  with  gelatine.  Line  the  molds 
with  a  thin  layer  of  stiff  Madeira  wine  jelly, 
dip  each  slice  of  fruit  in  some  more  of  it  and 
decorate  the  sides  of  the  mold  in  a  pretty  de- 
sign, then  pour  in  some  more  jelly  to  set  the 
design,  then  fill  up  with  the  stiffened  peach 
butter,  put  away  in  ice  box  to  set  firm,  turn 
out  on  a  fancy  glass  dish,  pipe  a  fancy  border 
with  whipped  cream,  sprinkle  it  with  very 
finely  chopped  pistachio  nuts  and  serve. 

PEACH  TARTLETTES  —  Fancy  patty  pans 
lined    with    puff  paste,    halves   of   preserved 


peaches  placed  into  each,  baked,  then  a  piping 
of  meringue  round  the  edges  sprinkled  with 
chopped  pistachio  nuts,  returned  to  oven  till 
the  meringue  takes  on  a  delicate  fawn  color; 
when  serving,  pipe  the  centre  fancifully  with 
whipped  cream. 
PEACH  FRITTERS— Freestone  peaches  peeled 
and  halved,  coated  with  frying  batter,  plunged 
into  hot  lard,  fried  a  golden  brown,  taken  up 
and  drained;  served  with  wine  sauce. 

PEACH  DUMPLINGS- Large  peaches  peeled 
and  stoned,  enclosed  with  short  paste,  steamed 
till  done;  served  with  any  pudding  sauce. 

PEACH  PIE— Peaches  peeled  and  cut  in  slices, 
and  made  up  same  as  apple  pie. 

PEACH  TRIFLE— A  sheet  of  sponge  cake  moist- 
ened with  sherry  wine,  this  spread  with  a  puree 
of  peaches,  the  peaches  with  whipped  cream, 
cut  orders  in  a  diamond  shape,  and  serve  with 
whipped  cream  piped  around  the  edges. 

PEACH  ICE— Pur^e  of  peaches  flavored  with 
ratafia  mixed  with  water  and  sugar  to  taste, 
frozen;  served  in  ice  cups. 

ICED  PE  ACHES-Large  freestone  peaches  peeled, 
halved;  stone  removed;  where  the  stone  was, 
filled  with  the  peach  ice  above;  place  the  halves 
together,  then  coat  the  outside  of  the  peach 
with  more  of  the  ice,  place  in  refrigerating  box 
till  firm,  then  serve  with  whipped  cream 
piped  around  the  base. 

PEANUT— One  of  the  most  nutritive  of  foods,  is 
the  peanut  kernel,  as  they  contain  7.8556  of 
water,  2.77JK  of  ash,  29.47^  of  protein,  4.29^  of 
fiber,  14  2756  of  nitrogen  free  extract,  49  2956  of 
fat,  4.67^  of  nitrogen.  *  *  *  In  describing  the 
uses  of  peanuts  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  more 
than  jrefer  to  that  use  which  fully  three- fourths 
of  the  American  raised  crop  is  devoted.  The 
nut  is  sorted  in  the  factory  into  four  grades, 
the  first,  second  and  third  being  sold  to  vendors 
of  the  roasted  peanut,  either  directly  or  through 
jobbing  houses.  The  fourth  grade,  after  pass- 
ing through  a  sheller,  is  sold  to  confectioners, 
to  be  used  in  the  making  of  "burnt  almonds", 
peanut  candy  and  cheaper  grades  of  chocolates. 
The  extent  of  the  use  of  the  peanuts  by  the 
American  people  will  be  more  fully  appreciated 
when  it  is  remembered  that  they  use  4,000,000 
bushels  of  nuts  yearly  (at  a  cost  to  the  con- 
sumers of  $10,000,000)  which  do  not  form  a 
part  of  the  regular  articles  of  food,  but  are 
eaten  at  odd  times. 

PEAR — A  delicious  fruit,  produced  at  its  best  in 
California.  The  Bartlett  is  the  best  for  serv- 
ing plain  or  in  the  fruit  stands.  May  be  used  in 
almost  all  the  ways  just  previously  described 
for  peaches. 

PRICKLY  PEAR— The  fruit  of  a  cactus  named 
Opuntia,    is    peeled,    sliced,    moistened   with 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


129 


brandy  and  the  juice  of  an  orange,  then  served 
with  powdered  sugar. 

PEAS — Garden  peas  shelled  and  washed,  the 
toppings  removed  from  the  water,  put  to  boil 
in  boiling  water  with  salt,  little  sugar  and  a 
small  bunch  of  green  mint,  boil  rapidly  without 
a  cover  till  tender,  about  ten  to  fifteen  minutes, 
take  up  and  drain,  remove  the  mint;  serve  plain 
as  a  vegetable  or  garnish,  or  mix  with  cream  or 
gravy,  or  butter  sauce.  The  dried  green  peas 
of  commerce  may,  after  soaking  in  cold  water 
over  night,  be  treated  the  same  as  fresh  garden 
peas. 

GREEN  PEA  SOUP— Garden  peas  shelled  and 
washed,  boiled  till  tender  in  good  chicken  broth, 
seasoned  to  taste,  then  is  added  some  shredded 
chervil  and  lettuce. 

GREEN  PEA  SOUP— Peas  shelled  and  washed, 
boiled  in  white  stock  till  tender,  slightly  thick- 
ened with  roux,  then  rubbed  through  a  tamis, 
seasoned;  served  with  croiltons  .  .  To  the  puree 
may  also  be  added  finely  cut  chervil,  chives, 
spring  onions,  asparagus  points,  stringless  beans 
.  .  .  also  may  be  mixed  in  for  a  change,  two 
or  three  cans  of  mac^doines  ...  or  a  julienne  of 
vegetables  ,  .  royal  custards  .  .  rice  grains  .  . 
flageolet  beans  .  .  etc. 

PUR£E  of  PEAS— Dried  green  peas  soaked 
over  night,  put  to  boil  in  white  stock  with  a  ham 
knuckle,  mint,  onion,  carrot,  spring  onions  and 
chives;  when  tender,  remove  the  ham,  rub  the 
rest  through  a  tamis,  season  to  taste,  bring  to 
the  boil  again  and  slightly  thicken  with  roux, 
to  avoid  settling;  cut  the  ham  in  small  dice  and 
add  to  the  soup;  serve  with  croiltons. 

PURfiE  OF  PEAS— Dried  green  peas  put  to 
boil  with  salt  pork  and  and  a  bunch  of  pot 
herbs  in  veal  broth,  boil  till  soft  and  pork  is 
done,  then  remove  pork,  thicken  a  little  with 
roux  to  prevent  settling,  then  rub  through 
tamis,  bring  to  boil  again,  season  to  taste,  cut 
the  pork  in  dice,  add  to  the  soup;  serve  with 
crofltons. 

SPLIT  PEA  SOUP— Split  peas  soaked  over 
night,  put  to  boil  in  white  stock  with  onion, 
celery,  carrot  and  salt  pork;  when  done,  thicken 
lightly  with  roux  to  prevent  settling,  remove 
the  pork,  rub  the  rest  through  a  tamis,  bring  to 
boil  again,  season  to  taste,  add  the  pork  cut  in 
small  dice;  serve  with  croiltons. 

PEAS  PUDDING— An  English  dish  used  with 
boiled  salt  pork,  salt  beef,  etc.  Split  peas 
soaked  over  night,  then  put  into  a  cloth  allow- 
ing room  to  swell,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water  with 
salt  and  a  small  piece  of  common  washing 
soda,  boiled  till  soft,  taken  up,  the  cloth  hung 
to  allow  all  water  to  drain  out,  then  untied, 
turned  on  to  a  dish  and  served  with  the  accom- 
panying meat. 


PEPPER— Black,  White  and  Mignonette— the 
berry  of  the  pepper  vine.  The  Black  is  the 
unripe  berry  dried;  Mignonette  is  the  black 
crushed  (not  ground)  used  in  seasoning  foods 
or  stocks,  etc.,  that  will  be  strained;  White  is 
the  kernel  of  the  ripe  berry. 

RED  PEPPER— is  the  ground  seeds  and  pods  of 
the  small  capsicum;  also  called  cayenne  pepper. 

PEPPERMINT — Name  of  a  combination  plant 
of  pepper  and  mint,  one  of  the  mint  species;  a 
volatile  oil  is  extracted  from  it  which  is  used 
for  medicinal  purposes,  also  as  a  flavoring  to 
many  things  in  the  confectioners'  trade. 

PEPPER  POT — Name  of  the  national  soup  stew 
of  the  West  Indies;  composed  of  pieces  of  beef, 
veal,  ham,  chicken,  game,  all  sorts  of  vege- 
tables, chopped  green  marjoram,  savory,  basil, 
parsley,  small  potatoes  and  dumplings,  finished 
and  seasoned  with  sauce  cassareep  and  chili 
pepper. 

PERCH— A  delicate  dainty  flavored  small  fish 
abundant  all  summer  in  our  fresh  water  lakes, 
rivers  and  streams.  As  the  skin  is  hard  they 
should  be  skinned  by  first  running  a  sharp 
knife  down  either  side  of  the  back  fins,  lifting 
the  fin  out,  then  with  a  sharp  jerk  pull  off  the 
skin  from  the  sides,  empty  the  entrails,  cut  off 
the  other  fins,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll 
in  flour,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  then  bread- 
crumbs, fry  a  golden  brown;  serve  with  lemon, 
garnish  with  parsley,  and  you  have  a  dish  ac- 
ceptable to  all.  .  .  .  Or,  after  preparing, season, 
roll  in  flour,  broil  and  baste  till  done;  serve 
garnished  with  chip  potatoes  and  a  little  miitre 
d'hotel  butter,  .  .  .  prepare  and  boil  in  salted 
water  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  take  up  and 
drain;  serve  with  Allemande,  parsley  butter  or 
anchovy  cream  sauce,  .  .  .  prepare,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  flour,  saut^  in  butter; 
serve  with  a  strip  of  bacon  and  a  little  anchovy 
butter  spread  on  it  .  .  .  prepare,  season,  roll  in 
flour,  bake  with  a  little  bacon  fat  till  done  and 
delicate  brown  in  color;  serve  with  Allemande 
sauce. 

PERIGUEUX — Name  given  to  a  sauce  made  by 
frying  a  delicate  brown  together  some  minced 
shallots,  onion  and  ham,  then  moisten  with  a 
glass  of  white  wine  and  allow  to  simmer  till 
half  reduced,  then  add  an  equal  quantity  of 
brown  roux  and  good  meat  gravy,  also  some 
truffle  peelings  and  a  piece  of  meat  glaze,  sim- 
mer the  whole  for  ten  minutes,  then  pass 
through  the  china  cap,  add  plenty  of  thinly 
sliced  truffles  and  set  in  bain-marie  for  use. 

PERSIMMON — Name  of  a  fruit  resembhng  in 
appearance  a  smooth  tomato,  in  color  between 
the  red  and  yellow  sorts;  best  when  having 
caught  the  frost;  has  a  flavor  from  its  pulpy  in- 
terior like  a  mixture  of  a  rough  banana  and 
tamarinds;  its  taste  must  be  cultivated  to  bo 


r3o 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


liked  as  a  fruit.  It  is  prepared  in  the  Southern 
states  as  a  beer,  cider  and  wine.  Also  its  pulp 
is  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  mixed  with  corn 
meal  instead  of  water  and  made  into  a  sweet 
corn  bread. 

PHEASANT— A  fine  game  bird;  should  be  hung 
by  the  tail  for  at  least  a  week  or  till  its  gamy 
flavor  is  pronounced,  then  pluck,  draw,  singe, 
wipe  and  truss,  plunge  him  into  boiling  salted 
water  with  an  onion  and  some  celery  stalks; 
when  he  is  tender  take  out;  serve  in  portions 
with  a  good  combined  celery  pur^e  sauce  con- 
taining an  equal  quantity  of  rich  oyster  sauce. 

BROILED  PHEASANT— Take  the  very  young 
birds,  and  after  hanging,  pluck,  singe,  split 
down  the  back,  remove  back  and  breast  bones; 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  brush  well  with 
olive  oil,  place  in  a  wire  hinged  broiler,  broil 
over  a  cleared  space  of  the  charcoal  till  tender; 
serve  with  a  brown  game  sauce. 

ROAST  PHEASANT— Hung  birds  plucked, 
singed,  drawn,  wiped,  trussed,  breasts  larded, 
bacon  tied  over  the  larded  breasts,  roasted  and 
basted  till  done;  served  in  portions  with  bread 
sauce. 

BRAISED  PHEASANT— Hung  birds  plucked, 
singed,  drawn,  wiped,  stuffed  with  aPinanciere 
ragodt  mixed  with  grated  stale  bread  and  a  little 
grated  lemon  rind,  trussed,  braised  with  bacon, 
sweet  herbs  and  a  little  game  stock;  when  done, 
taken  up,  the  braise  strained  and  skimmed, 
then  poured  to  a  game  sauce,  reduced,  finished 
with  a  glass  of  port  wine;  served  in  portions 
with  some  of  the  ragout  under,  the  sauce  over. 
.  .  .  May  also  be  braised  without  being  stuffed, 
and  served  with  a  pur^e  Soubise.  .  .  also 
braised  with  cabbage  lettuces  and  pork  saus- 
ages; served  garnished  with  the  sausages  and 
a  game  sauce  poured  over  .  .  .also  braised, 
served  garnished  with  glazed  sweetbreads,  and 
a  Financiere  ragodt. 

PHEASANT  MAY  BE  USED  TO  PRODUCE 
ALMOST  ALL  THE  ENTRIES  GIVEN 
WITH  PARTRIDGE,  AND  NAMED  AC- 
CORDINGLY. 

PICALLILI— Cut  the  following  vegetables  rather 
fine,  crush  the  garlic,  then  add,  pack  all  into 
stone  crocks  and  cover  with  slightly  salted 
water,  and  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  one  day 
and  night,  then  drain  on  sieve  and  press  with 
cloths  till  dry;  then  place  back  into  the  crocks, 
cover  with  the  boiling  vinegar  and  spices,  her- 
metically seal  on  the  crock  covers  while  con- 
tents are  at  boiling  heat — loo  small  cucumbers, 
3  small  white  cabbages,  i8  small  heads  of  cel- 
ery, 6  medium  cauliflowers,  6  quarts  of  string- 
less  beans,  9  each  of  medium  sized  green  and 
red  peppers,  4  cloves  of  garlic,  6  ozs.  of  mus- 
tard seed,  2  level  teaspoonfuls  each  of  ground 
allspice,  mace  and  ginger,  2  heaping  teaspoon- 


fuls of  ground  black  pepper,  enough  cider  vine- 
gar to  well  cover. 

PICKLES — When  making  any  pickles  from  the 
receipts  given  under  their  respective  headings, 
always  use  the  best  cider  vinegar,  scald  to  boil- 
ing point  but  do  not  let  it  boil,  prepare  always 
in  either  granite  or  porcelain  lined  kettles,  use 
wooden  spoons  or  paddles.  A  piece  of  horse- 
radish root  in  the  jars  will  prevent  the  vinegar 
from  becoming  moldy.  They  should  always  be 
kept  in  stone  or  glass,  and  in  a  dry  dark  place. 

PICKLE— Aromatic  salt  pickle  (German)— Take 
seven  and  half  gallons  of  water,  one  pound  of 
Indian  cane  sugar,  half  pound  of  pulverized 
cleaned  saltpetre,  three  ounces  of  coriander 
seeds,  half  a  dozen  bay  leaves,  three  cloves  of 
garlic.  Boil  all  for  five  minutes,  let  it  cool, 
strain  into  brine  tub  through  a  fine  strainer, 
throw  away  the  refuse.  This  brine  will  keep 
all  SUMMER,  and  can  be  used  for  every  kind 
of  meat.  All  meat  from  this  pickle  will  have  a 
fine  red  color  and  a  pleasant  taste. 

PICKLE  PUMPS— There  is  perhaps  no  process 
so  important  in  the  curing  of  meat  as  pumping. 
Meat  is  liable  to  very  quick  decomposition  un- 
less it  is  immediately  brought  in  contact  with  a 
preservative  of  some  kind,  such  as  salt,  borax, 
etc.  In  ordinary  course  if  these  preservatives 
were  laid  on  the  surface  of  the  meat,  they 
would  mingle  with  the  meat  juices,  dissolve 
and  percolate  slowly  through  the  tissues;  but 
this  process  is  slow  and  under  many  conditions 
of  temperature,  dangerous.  Hence  the  neces- 
sity of  an  appliance  which  brings  the  preserva- 
atives  at  once  into  operation.  The  salt  brine 
or  pickle  is  filtered  so  that  it  runs  clear,  and  is 
then  injected  by  the  pickle  pump  into  the  meat 
to  be  cured. 

PICKLING  BEEF  AND  HAMS— To  100  pounds 
of  beef  or  hams,  use  7  pounds  of  rock  salt,  5 
pounds  of  brown  sugar,  2  ounces  of  saltpetre, 
half  an  ounce  of  salaratus,  mix  together  and 
boil  in  four  gallons  of  water,  skim  while  boil- 
ing and  pour  on  to  the  meat  hot.  For  hams  to 
cure  well,  they  should  remain  in  the  pickle  for 
six  weeks. 

PIG  PRODUCTS — Under  the  name  of  fresh 
pork  is  comprised  generally  all  the  lean  and 
fresh  parts  of  the  pig  destined  to  be  roasted  or 
broiled,  particularly  the  cutlets,  the  loin  and 
small  fillet.  The  loin  is  the  fleshy  part  between 
the  cutlets  and  the  ham;  it  furnishes  an  excel- 
lent roast.  The  "filet  mignon"  as  the  French 
call  it,  is  the  long  and  narrow  fleshy  part  under 
the  kidney  along  the  dorsal  spine  known  to  us 
as  the  pork  tenderloin.  It  is  the  most  delicate 
morsel  of  pork  and  weighs  from  half  to  a  pound 
in  weight. 

HAMS — Nearly  always  entire  hams  are  salted 
(cured);  sometimes  they  are  used  for  cooking 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


13* 


after  several  days  cnring;  sometimes  for  smok- 
ing or  preserving  a  longer  or  shorter  time; 
sometimes  they  are  boned  and  used  for  the 
manufacture  of  different  kinds  of  sausages. 

SHOULDERS— These  are  used  to  make  rolled 
or  boned  hams;  sometimes  they  are  cured  and 
smoked,  and  are  then  called  fore  hams  or  Cali- 
fornia hams;  most  often  they  are  used  for  the 
manufacture  of  sausages. 

CAUL — The  caul  is  mostly  used  for  wrapping 
around  different  stuffed  pieces  such  as  truffled 
feet,  stuffed  cutlets,  flat  sausages,  broiled  liv- 
ers, etc. 

FRESH  LARD-BACK  FAT-LARDING  PORK 
^Fresh  lard  or  back  fat.  The  fat  between  the 
skin  and  the  flesh  is  called  fresh  lard  or  simply 
lard.  There  are  two  kinds,  melting  fat  and 
hard  fat;  the  first,  or  that  nearest  the  flesh,  is 
easily  known  by  the  touch;  it  yields  to  a  mod- 
erate pressure  of  the  fingers,  and  is  used  for 
making  lard.  The  other,  or  hard  fat,  adheres 
to  the  skin  and  is  not  easy  to  inelt;  it  is  used 
for  larding  and  in  the  preparation  of  a  great 
number  of  products  in  the  pork  butchers'  trade. 

KIDNEY  FAT --Is  the  fat  that  covers  the 
kidney  and  tenderloin;  it  is  used  for  fine  force- 
meats and  in  black  puddings,  to  which  it  gives 
a  delicate  taste.  From  this  fat  also  is  obtained 
a  very  fine  white  lard  superior  to  ordinary 
melted  lard. 

GUT  FAT— The  fat  that  adheres  to  the  intes- 
tines. If  melted  alone,  lard  of  second  quality 
is  produced;  more  often  it  is  melted  with  other 
lard  so  as  to  produce  lard  of  ordinary  quality. 

LUNGS,  LIVER,  HEART.  KIDNEYS.  BRAIN, 
SPLEEN — The  lungs  and  liver  form  part  of 
the  ingredients  of  various  kinds  of  sausages, 
liver  pates,  broiled  and  fried  liver,  etc.  The 
heart,  kidneys  and  brain  are  prepared  by  the 
culinary  processes  which  are  used  for  other 
similar  pieces  of  butchers'  meat.  The  spleen 
is  generally  used  in  sausages  of  an  inferior 
quality. 

STOMACH— Comprises  the  small  intestines,  the 
coecum,  the  colon  and  the  rectum.  The  small 
intestine  is  used  as  a  casing  for  different  kinds 
of  sausages,  black  pudding  (boudin  noir)  etc. 
The  coecum,  called  also  the  bag  or  pocket,  is 
used,  as  also  the  colon  and  the  rectum  and  fat 
end  for  the  packing  of  different  sausages  to 
keep,  and  for  the  making  of  stuffed  chitterlings. 
The  stomach  or  paunch  requires  long  cooking, 
after  which  it  is  used  in  common  sausages  and 
chitterlings. 

rONGUE,  EARS,  SNOUT,  FEET,  HAMS  AND 
TAIL — All  these  different  pieces  can  be  cooked 
alone,  or  with  vegetables  without  any  special 
preparation  being  necessary.  Very  often  they 
are  put  for  some  days  in  a  brine.  The  tongue, 
ears  and  snout  are  used  also  for  head  cheese, 


collared  brawn,  etc.     The  tongue  can  also  be 
used  for  converting  into  savory  tongue. 

PIGS  FEET— The  handling  of  which,  so  as  to 
produce  a  profitable  return  requires  scientific 
method  and  absolute  cleanliness.  The  feet 
should  be  used  fresh  as  cut  from  the  pig.  The 
front  feet  are  always  used  first  as  they  are  the 
best  for  turning  into  edible  delicacies,  and  the 
hind  feet  contain  more  bone.  The  toes  are 
pulled  off  and  the  hair  clean  shaved;  the  feet 
should  then  be  well  washed  and  scraped,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  cut  them,  as  this  causes  them  to 
break  when  cooking;  after  cleaning,  fresh  water 
should  be  kept  running  on  them  until  they  are 
to  be  cooked.  The  constantly  changing  of  the 
water  removes  the  blood  and  makes  them  more 
inviting  and  whiter  when  cooked. 

SKIN — The  skin  of  the  pig  can  be  easily  tanned. 
It  furnishes  a  leather  superior  to  that  of  the  ox. 
It  forms  an  important  element  in  the  making 
of  jellies.  Skin  left  on  salt  meat  preserves  it 
from  the  ravages  of  insects,  and  from  the 
effects  produced  by  the  air. 

BLOOD— The  blood  of  the  pig  is  very  valuable 
for  the  manufacture  of  blood  puddings.  It  is 
used  in  cooking  to  thicken  sauces;  and  it  clari- 
fies jellies  and  gives  them  a  beautiful  golden 
tint. 

HAIR — The  hair  or  bristles  are  used  extensively 
in  brush  making.  The  bristles  en  the  back 
serve  as  needles  for  hand  sewn  boot  and  shoe 
manufacturers. 

HOOFS — Pulverized  hoofs  make  a  very  rich 
manure.  They  are  also  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  glue  and  Prussian  blue. 

BONES — The  bones  are  used  in  the  making  of 
soups  and  jellies.  After  being  cooked  they 
may  be  pulverised  and  used  for  manure. 

BLADDERS— The  bladders  after  being  well 
washed,  blown  and  dried,  are  used  for  wrapping 
round  sausages,  and  for  filling  with  lard,  also 
for  hermetically  sealing  pots  of  preserves. 

GALL — The  liquid  contained  in  the  gall  bladder 
is  very  good  for  taking  out  grease  stains  with- 
out taking  out  the  color  of  even  the  most  deli- 
cate stuffs.  Hence  the  products  of  the  pig  are, 
taken  together,  of  immense  value. 

BRINE  FOR  HAM,  PICKLES,  ETC —Before 
proceeding  with  the  subject  of  pork  I  will  draw 
the  "hotel  butchers"  attention  to  the  subject 
of  his  pickling,  and  as  in  some  parts  of  the 
country  the  hotel  keepers  raise  their  own  pigs 
and  desire  their  cooks  to  use  up  every  part  of 
it  to  advantage  I  will  give  the  receipts  of  ham 
pickles. 

Many  butchers  prepare  their  brines  in  a  way 
as  simple  as  it  is  DEFECTIVE.  They  are  con- 
tent to  dissolve  a  certain  quantity  of  salt  and 
saltpetre  in  cold  water.    THIS  BRINE  DOES 


132 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


NOT  PRESERVE,  and  must  not  be  used  for 
delicate  meats. 

Put  into  a  boiler  and  let  boil  for  ten  minutes 
6  gallons  of  water,  21  pounds  oi  salt,  6  pounds 
of  sugar,  2  pounds  of  saltpetre,  stir  well  during 
cooking,  then  empty  out  the  brine  and  all  that 
remains  undissolved,  allow  to  become  quite 
cold,  then  add  a  quarttr  of  a  pound  of  mixed 
whole  spices;  rub  the  meat  with  powdered 
saltpetre  and  salt,  place  in  the  brine  tub,  pour 
over  the  brine.  This  brine  is  excellent  and 
can  be  used  for  all  kinds  of  meat,  and  notably 
for  meat  where  special  brines  are  not  indicated. 

Boil  as  in  the  preceding  5  gallons  of  water,  8 
pounds  of  white  salt,  2  pounds  of  gray  salt,  2>^ 
pounds  of  sugar,  lYz  pounds  of  saltpetre;  allow 
to  cool,  flavor  with  X  pound  of  whole  spices. 

Boil  and  cool  as  above  10  gallons  of  water, 
50  pounds  of  white  salt,  4  pounds  of  gray  salt, 
4^  pounds  of  saltpetre,  5  pounds  of  sugar, 
flavor  with  ^  pound  of  spices. 

In  some  Italian  provinces  an  excellent  brine 
is  prepared,  composed  of  iX  gallons  each  of 
Barola  wine  and  water,  8  pounds  of  white  salt, 
Yz  pound  of  gray  salt,  X  pound  of  saltpetre, 
flavored  with  thyme,  bay  leaves,  basil,  savory, 
and  juniper. 

In  Westphalia  the  hams  are  pickled  with  a 
brine  made  with,  2^  gallons  of  water,  8  pounds 
of  salt,  2  pounds  of  sugar,  yi  pound  of  salt- 
petre, 2  ounces  of  spices  tied  in  a  muslin  bag. 

For  Bayonne  hams,  the  following  brine  is 
used,  iX  gallons  each  of  good  red  wine  and 
cold  water,  8  pounds  of  white  salt,  2  pounds  of 
gray  salt,  2  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  a  flavoring 
of  sage,  rosemary  and  lavender. 

There  are  two  principal  processes  for  salting 
meats:  the  wet  process  and  the  dry.  Both 
have  their  merits,  and  their  combined  use  of- 
fers advantages.  THE  WET  PROCESS  con- 
sists in  steeping  meats  in  a  brine  for  some  time, 
according  to  the  thickness  of  the  pieces  of 
meats;  it  is  carried  out  by  the  big  packing  com- 
panies, where  the  system  of  curing  has  reached 
a  most  perfect  condition.  THE  DRY  PRO- 
CESS: place  the  meats  on  the  salting  table, 
powder  them  with  fine  saltpetre,  rub  well  into 
the  meat,  rub  afterwards  with  gray  salt  (sea 
salt).  Arrange  them  one  beside  the  other  in 
such  a  way  that  they  will  not  get  out  of  shape, 
then  cover  evenly  with  white  salt;  this  opera- 
tion is  renewed  every  two  or  three  days  until 
the  salt  has  been  well  soaked  into  the  inside  of 
the  flesh,  a  result  which  is  obtained  in  from  one 
to  four  weeks,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
pieces.  This  process  is  generally  carried  on 
by  salt  meat  exporters. 

By  the  wet  process  the  necessary  salt  flavor 
is  obtained,  inasmuch  as  they  are  immersed  in 
brine  more  or  less  salted.  With  the  dry  pro- 
cess, on  the  contrary,   the  meats  coming  into 


immediate   contact  with   the  salt  are  impreg- 
nated too  strongly. 

This  difference  in  result  is  easily  explained 
through  the  action  of  the  salt.  In  both  methods 
this  condiment  clears  out  the  aqueous  portions 
of  the  blood  in  the  tissues  and  thus  preserves 
the  meat  from  taint.  With  dry  salting  it  is 
pure  salt  which  saturates  the  meats.  In  the 
wet  process  the  brine,  which  acts  like  salt,  be- 
ing a  solution  of  it,  impregnates  in  a  much  less 
degree  the  flesh,  as  it  is  so  much  weaker  being 
in  solution.  If  the  wet  process  is  used,  noth- 
ing must  be  done  until  after  the  meats  are 
thoroughly  chilled,  which  is  not  often  complete 
(according  to  temperature)  before  twelve  to 
eighteen  hours.  If  this  precaution  is  neglected, 
and  the  warm  meats  were  heaped  into  a  brine 
tub,  not  only  would  they  become  unshapely,  but 
they  would  become  hot  and  ferment,  the  inevi- 
table consequence  of  which  would  be  their  cor- 
ruption and  that  of  the  brine. 

With  the  dry  process  the  meats  can  be  salted 
immediately  after  slaughter,  which  is  favor- 
able to  the  success  of  the  operation.  In  fact, 
it  is  known  by  the  reason  of  its  chemical  com- 
position, meat  tends  to  decomposition  as  soon 
as  the  animal  ceases  to  live,  and  it  is  therefore 
apparent  that  the  less  advanced  is  the  tainting, 
the  greater  is  the  success  of  the  salting. 

PICKLING  OF  ROLLED  HAMS— Choose  hams 
that  are  not  very  fat,  bone  and  trim  them, 
pickle  in  brine  for  two  weeks,  wash  in  fresh 
water  for  an  hour  or  so,  brush  the  hams,  beat 
with  a  mallet  so  as  to  make  them  round  and 
uniform,  tie  with  string,  dry  them  in  the  air, 
then  smoke  them.  When  these  hams  are  dry 
they  can  be  served  raw,  but  usually  they  are 
served  cooked. 

FORE  HAMS  OR  CALIFORNIA  SHOULDERS 
— Trim  the  shoulders,  cut  them  round,  put 
through  the  dry  process  (as  above)  for  three 
days,  then  through  the  wet  process  for  ten 
days,  take  out  of  the  brine,  wash,  scrub,  dry, 
smoke,  and  finish  like  ordinary  hams. 

PICKLING  OF  OX  TONGUES— Cut  away  the 
dead  flesh,  the  gristle,  and  the  fat  which  is 
found  at  the  root.  Make  on  each  side  of  the 
root  slight  incisions  to  facilitate  the  salting. 
Wash  the  tongues  in  running  water,  brushing 
them  well,  dry  with  a  cloth,  rub  them  with 
saltpetre,  then  with  a  mixture  of  9  parts  salt 
and  I  part  sugar,  and  put  them  in  a  good  brine 
for  12  days.  Ox  tongues,  like  those  of  pigs, 
calves  and  sheep,  have  on  their  thick  side  a 
slimy  liquid,  which  easily  taints  the  brine. 
This  is  why  it  is  important  to  well  wash  and 
dry  them  before  putting  into  the  brine. 
For  the  same  reason  tongues  should  always  be 
pickled  alone  in  a  special  brine  tub  in  which 
only  the  necessary  quantity  of  brine  should  be 
put. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


PIGS  HEAD  STUFFED— More  often  called 
"Boars  Head  (glazed)".  Select  a  perfect  head 
with  good  ears;  the  head  must  be  cut  off  full, 
that  is  with  two  or  three  joints  of  the  neck  bone 
left  on;  carefully  bone  it;  the  head  is  then  well 
washed  in  cold  water  to  remove  all  blood,  and 
put  into  a  spiced  pickle  for  six  days;  it  is  then 
well  washed  and  stuffed  tightly  with  pork  sau- 
sage meat,  a  piece  of  rind  being  stitched  on 
Dack  of  head  to  keep  the  stufiSng  in.  The  head 
is  then  placed  on  a  thin  board  and  another 
piece  placed  alongside  each  cheek  and  tied  in 
position  to  keep  head  in  shape;  the  whole  is 
now  tied  up  in  a  cloth,  and  cooked  gently,  so  as 
not  to  break  the  ears,  but  long  enough  to  cook 
thoroughly;  allow  to  cool,  taking  care  to  place 
in  position,  so  that  it  cools  to  a  good  shape  with 
ears  erect;  when  cool  insert  glass  eyes,  and,  if 
available,  a  pair  of  tusks,  then  glaze  and  dec- 
orate. 

PIGEONS — The  young  ones  called  squabs,  are 
best  split  down  the  back,  breastbone  removed, 
trussed,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  rolled 
in  melted  butter,  broiled;  served  on  toast 
with  maitie  d'hotel  or  piquante  sauces. 

ROAST  PIGEON— Young  birds  plucked,  singed, 
drawn,  wiped,  trussed  with  bacon  over  the 
breast,  roasted;  served  with  their  own  gravy, 
garnish  with  cress. 

BREASTS  OF  PIGEON— Breasts  of  young  birds, 
seasoned,  breaded,  and  broiled,  or  fried;  or 
coated  with  sauce  then  breaded  and  fried; 
or  the  breasts  saute^d  then  breaded  and  fried; 
served  with  any  garnish  appropriate  to  dark 
fleshed  birds  or  game. 

STEWED  PIGEON  WITH  MUSHROOMS— 
Separated  into  four  joints,  saute^d  with  butter, 
taken  up  into  a  sautoir  to  which  is  added  little 
lean  ham,  button  mushrooms  sauteed,  bunch  of 
pot  herbs,  seasoning,  little  red  wine  and  stock, 
the  whole  simmered  till  tender;  served  with  the 
mushrooms  as  a  border. 

PIGEON  PIE— Into  a  deep  pie  dish  place  on  the 
bottom  some  thin  slices  of  beef,  then  halves  of 
young  pigeons,  slices  of  bacon,  some  forcemeat 
balls,  mushrooms,  and  yolks  of  hard  boiled 
eggs,  little  chopped  parsley,  moisten  with  sea- 
soned gravy,  cover  with  a  short  paste,  brush 
the  top  with  egg  wash,  and  bake  gently  till 
done,  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 

POTTED  PIGEON-Young  birds  plucked,  singed, 
drawn,  wiped,  stuffed  with  a  mixture  of  grated 
bread,  chopped  parsley,  chopped  suet,  grated 
hard  boiled  egg  yolks,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg, 
trussed,  placed  into  a  crock  with  celery,  thyme, 
parsley,  an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  glass  of 
Madeira  and  a  little  stock,  cover,  place  in  oven, 
and  cook  gently  till  tender;  served  with  the 
strained  gravy,  garnished  with  cress  and  lemon. 

COMPOTE  OF  PIGEON— Practically  the  same 


133 
sauted 


as   above,    generally    garnished    with 
button  mushrooms. 

PIGEON  CROUSTADE— Young  birds  prepared 
and  trussed,  arranged  in  a  sautoir  with  slices 
of  bacon,  moistened  with  chicken  broth,  stewed 
till  tender,  taken  up  and  placed  in  a  toasted 
fancy  bread  croflstade;  served  with  flnanci^re 
garnish  poured  around. 

CURRIED  PIGEONS— Small  young  birds,  one 
to  the  portion,  prepared  and  trussed,  placed  in 
oven  with  bacon  fat  and  quickly  browned  and 
basted,  taken  up  into  a  curry  sauce  made  of 
chicken  and  game  stock,  to  which  is  added  a 
grated  green  apple,  simmered  till  tender; 
served  garnished  with  timbales  of  rice  or  ris- 
soto. 

CURRIED  PIGEONS  WITH  RICE— Split  the 
birds  in  halves,  take  out  the  breast  bone,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  them  in  curry 
powder  and  then  in  flour,  mince  some  onions 
and  a  clove  of  ga  rlic,  fry  them  without  much 
color  in  oil  of  butter,  take  up  the  onions;  then 
fry  the  pigeons,  moisten  with  stock,  return  the 
onions,  add  a  grated  sour  apple,  also  a  spoonful 
each  of  tamarinds  and  Bengal  chutney  with  a 
little  preserved  ginger,  simmer  slowly  till  done, 
take  up  the  birds,  skim  off  any  grease  from  the 
curry,  strain  it  over  the  birds;  make  a  border  of 
dry  boiled  rice  around  the  serving  dish,  place 
two  halves  of  birds  in  the  centre  with  some  of 
the  sauce  poured  over  them. 

STUFFED  PIGEON  WITH  POTATOES-Draw 
the  bird  as  for  roast,  take  out  the  breast  bone, 
stuff  with  a  mixture  of  bread  crumbs,  parsley, 
its  own  liver  and  heart  minced  with  a  little 
bacon,  grated  lemon  rind,  salt  and  pepper.  Ar- 
range them  in  a  sautoir,  cover  with  stock  and 
simmer  slowly  till  tender.  Make  a  mound  of 
mashed  potatoes  on  the  serving  dish,  place  a 
pigeon  on  top,  pour  over  some  of  the  gravy 
made  from  the  stock  the  birds  were  simmered 
in. 

STUFFED  PIGEON  WITH  VEGETABLES— 
Prepare  the  birds  and  cook  as  in  the  preceding 
recipe;  when  tender,  take  up  the  birds,  then 
boil  some  Julienne  cut  vegetables  in  the  stock 
the  birds  were  simmered  in,  season,  place  the 
bird  on  a  slice  of  toast,  pour  the  gravy  over  it, 
and  garnish  with  the  drained  vegetables. 

LARDED  PIGEONS.  GARNISHED— Lard  the 
breast  of  the  birds  with  bacon,  arrange  them 
in  a  sautoir,  moisten  with  chicken  stock  and 
simmer  till  tender,  take  up,  reduce  the  gravy  to 
a  glaze,  roll  the  birds  in  it,  and  serve  each  one 
on  a  fancy  croflstade,  pour  over  a  little  finan- 
ci^re  sauce,  and  garnish  the  base  with  a  ragoQt 
of  truffles,  mushrooms,  cocks  combs  and  que- 
nelles of  chicken. 

SALMIS  OF  PIGEONS— Take  cold  cooked  bird* 
split  in  halves,   arrange  in  a  sautoir,  moisten 


»34 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


with  a  game  sauce,  add  a  glass  of  sherry  wine, 
serve  the  birds  on  a  fancy  croflton,  pour  over 
a  little  of  the  sauce  and  garnish  with  stoned 
olives. 

BRAISED  PIGEON  WITH  FLAGEOLETS— 
Prepare  and  stuff  the  birds  as  for  "Stuffed 
pigeons  with  potatoes,"  braise  them  slowly  till 
tender,  take  up,  add  a  good  brown  sauce  to  the 
contents  of  the  brasiere,  reduce,  then  strain  it 
over  the  pigeons;  serve  the  bird  on  toast  with  a 
spoonful  of  the  sauce  poured  over;  garnish  with 
some  fiageolets  that  have  been  saut^ed  in  butter. 

FRICASSEE  OF  PIGEONS— Draw  the  birds  as 
for  roasting,  take  out  the  breast  bone,  stuff  the 
aperture  with  a  veal  forcemeat,  tie  up,  blanch, 
arrange  in  a  sautoir,  cover  with  a  Velout^ 
sauce,  put  on  the  cover  and  simmer  slowly  till 
tender;  serve  with  green  peas,  and  a  fancy 
crouton  at  each  end  of  the  dish. 

BRAISED  PIGEON,  GARNISHED— Braise  the 
birds  till  tender,  split  them  in  halves,  arrange 
neatly  on  toast,  pour  over  some  of  the  strained 
and  skimmed  braise,  garnish  with  stoned  olives, 
button  mushrooms,  small  quenelles,  olive 
shaped  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip  that  have 
all  been  simmered  in  chicken  or  veal  stock  till 
done. 

ROAST  PIGEON  WITH  TOMATOES— Take 
young  birds  and  stuff  them  with  breadcrumbs 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  butter,  minced 
parsley  and  onions  parboiled  in  broth,  add  an 
egg  to  bind,  cover  the  breasts  with  broad  thin 
slices  of  bacon,  roast,  take  up,  add  to  the  pan 
they  were  roasted  in  some  Espagnole  sauce, 
and  a  seasoning  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  boil 
up  and  strain,  then  add  to  it  a  little  tarragon 
vinegar  and  chopped  parsley;  serve  a  spoonful 
over  each  bird,  and  garnish  with  saut^ed  toma- 
toes. 

SAUTfi  OF  PIGEON— Split  the  birds  down  the 
back,  remove  the  breast  bone,  flatten  with  the 
cleaver,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in 
flour,  fry  in  butter:  when  done,  take  up  and  add 
flour  to  the  butter  they  were  fried  in,  moisten 
with  stock,  boil  up  and  strain  over  the  birds, 
add  some  chopped  estragon  leaves  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  tarragon  vinegar,  simmer  a  little  while, 
then  serve. 

SQUABS,  SAUCE  CRAPAUDINE— Draw  the 
birds  as  for  roasting,  then  without  detaching 
the  parts,  cut  the  breast  from  the  tip  to  the 
wing  joint,  turn  the  two  ends  so  as  to  look  like 
a  frog,  flatten  with  a  blow  of  the  cleaver,  dip 
in  melted  batter,  then  in  fresh  grated  bread- 
crumbs, broil  slowly  till  done;  serve  with  sauce 
crapaudine. 

BROILED  PLOVER  ON  TOAST— Wipe  the 
birds  but  do  not  draw  them,  broil  over  a  clear 
fire,  basting  often  with  butter;  serve  on  toast, 


garnish  with  a  crodton  spread  with  currant 
jelly. 

ROAST  PLOVER— Wipe  the  birds  but  do  not 
draw  them,  spread  a  thin  piece  of  fat  bacon 
over  the  breast,  roast  quickly  till  done;  serve 
on  a  fancy  croflstade  with  a  little  game  sauce 
poured  over. 

BREAST  OF  PLOVER,  EN  SALMI— Wipe  but 
do  not  draw  the  birds,  roast,  take  off  the  breasts 
and  simmer  them  in  a  game  sauce  containing 
minced  mushrooms,  take  the  trail  of  the  birds, 
spread  it  on  fancy  crofltons;  serve  the  breasts 
on  a  Duchesse  potato,  pour  the  sauce  around, 
and  garnish  with  the  crofltons. 

BREASTS  OF  PLOVER  WITH  SWEET- 
BREADS—Roast  the  birds,  then  remove  the 
breasts  and  place  them  in  a  sautoir  with  a  lit- 
tle demi-glaze  and  some  stoned  olives.  Take 
small  sweetbreads  lard  and  braise  them;  serve 
one  of  each  with  the  sauce  poured  over  them. 

PINTAIL — Name  of  one  of  our  common  wild 
ducks,  is  good  stuffed  and  roasted,  and  in  a 
salmi. 

PIQUANTE— Name  of  a  sauce  made  with  an 
equal  number  of  chopped  shallots  and  green 
gherkins,  boiled  till  shallots  are  done  in  caper 
vinegar,  then  is  added  some  capers,  bay  leaf 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme,  boiled  again  till  vin- 
egar is  reduced  to  one  third  of  its  original  vol- 
ume; remove  the  bay  leaf  and  thyme,  add 
enough  good  Espagnole  sauce  and  a  little 
chicken  broth,  till  of  the  proper  sauce  consist- 
ency. 

PISTACHIO— Name  of  a  pea  green  nut  of  al- 
mond flavor,  used  by  pastry  cooks  and  confec- 
tioners. 

PLUMS — As  there  are  so  many  varieties  grown, 
and  all  good  for  dessert,  compotes,  etc.,  I  will 
simply  here  append  a  few  ways  of  taking  care 
of  them  when  they  are  to  be  had  very  cheap. 

PLUM  MARMALADE— Rub  the  plums  but  do 
not  pare  them,  cut  in  halves  and  remove  the 
stones,  weigh  them,  and  allow  half  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit.  Put  the  fruit  in- 
to a  preserving  kettle,  add  sufficient  water  to 
cover  the  bottom,  cover,  and  bring  slowly  to 
the  boiling  point,  then  stir  and  mash  the  fruit 
until  fine,  add  then  the  sugar  and  some  of  the 
kernels  blanched  and  minced,  boil  and  stir 
continually  for  fifteen  minutes,  then  draw  to 
one  side  and  allow  to  simmer  for  twenty  min- 
utes more;  pack  away  in  stone  crocks. 

PLUM  BUTTER— Select  mellow  fruit,  peel  and 
remove  stones,  weigh  the  fruit  then,  and  to  each 
pound  allow  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar, 
place  the  fruit  in  preserving  kettle,  heat  slowly 
to  boiling  point,  then  mash  till  smooth,  then 
rub  through  a  fine  sieve  into  another  kettle; 
add  the  sugar  and  boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  stir- 
ring continually;  pack  away  in  small  jars. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


135 


PLUM  JELLY — Take  common  blue  plums,  wash 
in  cold  water,  place  in  preserving  kettle,  adding 
two  quarts  of  water  to  each  bushel  of  fruit, 
cover  the  kettle  and  beat  slowly  until  the  fruit 
is  soft  and  tender,  then  turn  into  flannel  jelly 
bag  and  let  drip  till  fruit  is  dry.  To  every  pint 
of  this  juice  allow  one  pound  of  granulated 
sugar,  put  the  juice  into  preserving  kettle  and 
bring  it  quickly  to  the  boil,  add  then  the  sugar 
and  stir  till  dissolved,  then  boil  rapidly  till  it 
jellies,  about  twenty-five  minutes;  remove  scum 
as  it  rises;  as  soon  as  it  jellies,  take  jelly  tum- 
blers, roll  them  in  boiling  water,  fill  with  the 
boiling  liquid,  stand  aside  for  24  hours,  then 
screw  on  the  covers. 

PLUM  PUDDING— As  each  and  every  pastry 
cook  has  his  own  favorite  recipe  for  this  dish, 
which  is  usually  associated  with  Christmas,  I 
will  simply  append  one  that  has  always  given 
satisfaction  to  the  best  of  critics: 

Pound  and  a  half  of  raisins  stoned  and  freed 
from  stalks.  .  .  Pound  and  a  half  of  currants, 
rubbed  and  freed  from  stones.  .  .  Pound  mixed 
of  citron,  orange  and  lemon  candied  peels.  .  . 
Two  and  a  half  pounds  of  finely  chopped  beef 
suet.  .  .  Two  pounds  of  sifted  flour.  .  .  One  and 
a  half  pounds  of  brown  sugar  freed  from  lumps 
.  .  .  Eight  eggs.  .  .  One  and  a  half  pints  of  rich 
milk.  .  .  The  grated  rind  and  juices  of  two  lem- 
ons and  two  oranges.  .  .  One  ounce  of  mixed 
ground  nutmeg,  cloves  and  cinnamon.  .  .  Half 
a  pint  of  Cognac  and  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Mix  overnight  before  to  be  boiled  in  the 
morning;  fill  into  molds  or  into  a  buttered  and 
floured  cloth;  boil  steadily  for  five  hours;  serve 
with  hard  and  brandy  sauces. 

PLUM  CAKE— The  finest  wedding  cake  as  made 
by  a  late  employer  of  mine: 

Pound  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour  .  .  .  Pound 
and  a  half  of  pure  butter.  .  .  Pound  of  powdered 
sugar.  .  .  Pound  of  French  cherries  cut  in 
halves  (cerises  glaces).  .  .  Pound  and  a  half  of 
seeded  raisins  and  cleaned  currants  (three- 
quarters  of  each).  .  .  Half  a  pound  each  of 
shredded  citron,  orange  and  lemon  candied 
peels.  .  .  Half  a  pound  of  finely  chopped  al- 
monds. .  .  Eight  whole  eggs.  .  .  Grated  rind  and 
juice  of  four  oranges.  .  .  Half  an  ounce  of 
mixed  ground  cinnamon,  cloves  and  nutmeg.  .  . 
Half  a  pint  of  Cognac  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt. 

POMPANO— A  most  delicious  nutty  flavored  fish 
of  the  Southern  waters,  broiled  whole,  or;  if 
large,  fiUetted  and  broiled;  served  with  miitre 
d'hotel  sauce,  or  melted  butter  and  Tartar 
sauce  aside,  garnished  with  lemon  and  fancy 
potatoes.  .  .  Broiled  fillets  of  Pompano  served 
spread  with  Montpelier  butter  and  garnished 
with  Julienne  potatoes.  .  .  Filleted  Pompano 
saut^ed  with  strps  of  bacon,  served  with  it  and 
fancy  potatoes.  .  .  Small  Pompano  fried  a  deli- 


cate brown  with  butter,  butter  oil  then  poared 
ofiE  into  another  pan,  browned,  then  is  added 
lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley;  served  over 
the  fish,  garnished  with  Saratoga  chips. 

PORGIE— Name  of  a  small  fish  plentiful  in  the 
Eastern  States  markets;  served  in  every  way 
applicable  to  perch. 

PORK  TENDERLOIN  WITH  SWEET  POTA- 
TOES— Season  the  meat  with  salt,  pepper  and 
sage,  roll  in  flour,  then  in  melted  roast  pork 
drippings,  arrange  in  baking  pan  with  small 
whole,  or  halved,  peeled  sweet  potatoes,  bake 
till  done  with  plenty  of  basting,  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour;  serve  with  gravy  made  in 
the  pan  they  were  cooked  in. 

STUFFED  PORK  TENDERLOIN— The  meat 
split  and  stuffed  with  sage  and  onion  dressing, 
tied  with  twine  (which  is  afterwards  removed), 
baked  and  served  as  the  preceding. 

BROILED  PORK  TENDERLOIN— Split,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper  and  sage,  rolled  in 
flour,  broiled  well  done,  basting  with  butter; 
served  with  apple  sauce,  sauce  Soubise  or 
sauce  Robert. 

BRAISED  PORK  TENDERLOIN— Braised  with 
vegetables  and  bacon;  when  done,  the  braise 
strained  and  skimmed,  then  added  to  a  sauce 
Robert  or  Lyonnaise,  the  tenderloin  dipped  in 
the  sauce,  then  laid  on  a  neat  centre  of  pur^e 
of  sweet  potatoes,  little  more  of  the  sauce 
poured  around  the  base. 

CURRIED  PORK  TENDERLOIN— Take  any 
unused  tenderloins  of  the  preceding  receipt, 
cut  them  in  neat  scallops  quarter  inch  thick, 
reheat  them  in  a  good  curry  sauce;  served 
garnished  with  small  glazed  onions  at  the  sides 
and  a  small  mold  of  rice  at  the  ends. 

CORNED  PORK  TENDERLOINS— Use  tender- 
loins that  have  been  in  a  good  brine  for  three 
days,  wash,  boil  slowly  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  take  up  and  drain,  then  split  in  halves, 
season  with  pepper  and  powdered  sage,  roll  in 
flour,  arrange  in  baking  pan,  bake  a  delicate 
brown,  basting  with  sausage  drippings,  serve 
garnished  with  Julienne  vegetables  in  a  cream 
sauce. 

ROAST  LOIN  OF  PORK— With  a  boning  knife 
separate  the  joints  on  the  chine  bone  of  the 
loin  of  pork  (better  than  chopping  it),  season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  sage,  score  the  rind,  ar- 
range on  a  meat  rest  in  baking  pan,  with  sage 
and  onion  dressing  under  the  meat,  bake  in  a 
medium  oven  well  done  and  brown;  serve  in 
chops  on  a  spoonful  of  the  dressing,  gravy  at 
the  sides,  and  apple  sauce  served  in  a  separate 
dish;  also  roasted  without  dressing,  and  served 
with  Remoulade  sauce. 

ROAST  LEG  OF  PORK— Legs  10  to  12  pounds 
in  weight  are  of  best  quality  and  most  eco- 
nomical.    Remove  the  foot,  score  the  rinds  in- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


136 

to  dice  shape,  roast  in  a  medium  oven  well 
done  two  and  a  half  to  three  hours;  serve  with 
sage  and  onion  dressing,  gravy,  and  apple 
sauce  separate;  or  with  tomato  sauce,  or  Rob- 
ert, or  Piquante  sauce,  or  with  baked  apples. 

STUFFED  LEG  OF  PORK— For  serving  cold. 
Lay  the  leg  on  table  skin  side  down,  remove 
the  aitchbone,  then  cut  along  the  leg  bone  to 
the  knuckle  joint,  remove  the  leg  bone  leaving  the 
knuckle  bone  in,  fill  the  cavity  with  a  stuffing 
composed  of  fresh  mashed  potatoes,  minced  and 
saut^ed  onion,  salt,  pepper,  sage,  pork  sausage 
meat  and  one  whole  egg  to  each  leg  of  pork, 
draw  the  meat  together  close,  tie  tightly,  score 
the  rind,  bake  slowly  with  a  few  apples  in  the 
pan,  till  done,  basting  with  the  apple  juice  and 
gravy;  then  take  up  and  allow  to  get  thoroughly 
cold;  serve  for  luncheon  or  supper,  in  slices 
garnished  either  with  small  pickled  onions, 
sliced  gherkins,  Tartar  sauce,  Remoulade 
sauce,  pur^e  of  cranberries  or  pur^e  of  apples. 
After  you  have  got  the  guests  (especially  in  a 
family  hotel)  to  try  this  dish,  you  will  have  to 
keep  two  or  three  on  hand  all  the  time  to  keep 
up  the  demand. 

BONED  BOILED  SALT  LEG  OF  PORK— For 
serving  cold.  Use  a  12  pound  leg,  get  it  fresh, 
remove  the  foot,  rub  with  salt,  wash  it,  pump 
it  with  brine;  then  lay  it  in  brine  for  four  days, 
take  up,  drain,  remove  the  bones  as  in  the  pre- 
ceding recipe,  draw  the  meat  together,  letting 
the  thin  side  come  right  over  the  thick,  tie 
tightly  with  twine,  put  to  boil  in  cold  water 
with  a  few  bay  leaves  and  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  boil  slowly  for  one  hour  and  a  quarter, 
then  allow  it  to  become  thoroughly  cold  in  the 
water  it  was  boiled  in;  serve  in  slices  with  a 
garnish  of  horseradish  mustard  and  a  few 
pickles,  or  sliced  tomatoes  with  Tartar  sauce, 
or  German  potato  salad. 

COLD  ROLLED  BELLY  OF  PORK(STUFFED 
OLIVES) — Nice  lean  bellies  of  pickled  pork, 
may  be  boned,  rolled,  tied,  then  wrapped  in  a 
cloth  and  tied  again  like  a  roly  poly  pudding, 
boiled  till  tender,  taken  up  and  allowed  to  be- 
come cold  in  the  cloth  it  was  boiled  in,  the 
cloth  then  removed,  the  pork  wiped  with  a  hot 
wet  cloth;  served  in  slices  garnished  as  above. 

BROILED  PORK  CHOPS— Remove  the  rind, 
cut  the  chops  to  an  even  thickness,  trim  off  any 
superfluous  fat,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
roll  in  butter  then  in  breadcrumbs  and  broil  a 
golden  brown,  or  broil  them  plain,  and  serve 
plain  or  with  apple  sauce,  or  with  Robert,  Tar- 
tare,  Anchovy,  Curry,  Bretonne,  Soubise  or 
Lyonnaise  sauces,  or  serve  plain  and  garnished 
with  fried  sweet  potatoes  or  fried  apples. 

FRIED  PORK  CHOPS— Remove  the  rind  or 
leave  it  on  (some  like  it  on),  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  roll  in  flour,   fry  with  pork  fat  a 


golden  brown;  serve  plain  or  with  tomato, 
Robert,  Piquante,  Currj,  Soubise  or  sage 
sauces,  or  with  fried  apples. 

PORK  CHOPS  SAUTfeES-Trim  the  chops,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  fry  them  a  golden 
brcwn  with  butter.  Make  a  stiff  puree  of  split 
peas,  place  a  heaping  spoonful  in  centre  of 
dish,  place  chop  on  it,  and  pour  a  little  gher- 
kin sauce  over. 

PORK  CROQUETTES,  ANCHOVY  SAUCE— 
Make  the  pork  croquette  mixture  from  cold 
roast  pork  trimmings,  season  it  with  a  little 
sage,  adding  to  stiffen  it  some  pork  sausage 
meat;  serve  with  a  brown  thick  roast  pork  gravy 
flavored  with  anchovy  essence. 

EMENCE  OF  PORK  WITH  FRIED  APPLES 
— Take  the  lean  of  cold  roast  leg  of  pork  and 
cut  in  circular  slices  size  of  half  dollars,  dust 
them  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  sage,  re- 
heat them  in  sauce  Robert;  serve  on  toast; 
garnished  with  slices  of  fried  apples. 

SALT  PORK  WITH  PARSNIPS— Lean  pickled 
belly  of  pork,  boil  it  with  whole  parsnips  for 
half  an  hour,  take  up  and  drain,  then  slice  the 
pork  and  quarter  the  parsnips,  now  fry  the  pork 
a  golden  brown,  then  the  parsnips  in  the  pork 
fat;  serve  two  slices  of  each. 

MINCED  PORK  WITH  FRIED  APPLES— 
Lean  minced  fresh  pork  three  parts;  white 
bread  soaked  in  milk,  then  squeezed  dry  one 
part;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered 
sage,  add  a  few  beaten  eggs,  mix  all  thoroughly; 
place  it  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  cover  with  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper  and  bake  in  a  medium 
oven  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  cut  out  in  squares 
or  diamond  shape  when  done  and  served  with 
fried  apples. 

FRIED  SALT  PORK  WITH  APPLES- -Take 
the  cold  rolled  belly  of  pork  of  a  preceding 
recipe,  slice  it  in  quarter  inch  thicknesses,  roll 
the  slices  in  corn  meal.  Take  sour  cooking 
apples,  core  them,  slice  in  halt  inch  thick- 
nesses, then  arrange  the  pork  and  apples  alter- 
nately in  a  baking  pan,  brown  off  of  an  even 
color  in  a  quick  oven  and  serve. 

FRIED  PORK  KIDNEYS— Take  the  kidneys 
and  split  them,  remove  the  white  centres,  soak 
them  in  salted  water  containing  a  little  vinegar 
for  an  hour;  then  wipe  dry,  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  powdered  sage,  roll  in  flour,  fry  a 
golden  brown  with  butter;  serve  on  toast,  garn- 
ish with  Brussels  sprouts  and  pour  over  the 
kidneys  a  spoonful  of  maitre  d'hotel  butter. 

PORK  SAUSAGES— These  may  be  made  in  var- 
ious ways  according  to  the  price  per  day  or 
meal  of  the  hotel  or  restaurant.  They  are 
rarely  made  of  the  pure  meat,  as  when  so  made 
they  are  too  rich  and  unpalateable.  If,  how- 
ever, a  large  proportion  of  the  meat  used  be 
lean  the  richness  will  to  a  great  extent  disap- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


137 


pear.     li  is  in  all  cases,  however,  advisable  to   CERVELATPOLSE  OR  DANISH  BEEF  AND 


have  present  some  cracker  meal,  bread  or  gran- 
ulated rice,  even  if  added  only  in  small  quanti- 
ties, as  by  that  means  only,  FIRMNESS  can 
be  obtained.  The  hotel  butcher  or  cook  should 
make  all  the  sausages  used  for  every  purpose, 
and  not  have  them  purchased  from  the  meat  pur- 
veyor. In  the  case  of  the  sausages  that  are 
smoked,  etc.,  and  served  as  a  relish,  that  part 
of  it  can  be  always  done  by  the  people  from 
whom  your  hams  are  purchased  for  a  mere 
trifle.  Further,  it  is  my  very  firm  convic- 
tion, that,  the  ordinary  hotel  butcher  knows 
but  little  about  sausage  making.  He  should 
know!  and  I  shall  here  devote  several  pages  of 
this  book  to  that  teaching,  with  the  hope  that 
it  will  enable  the  hotel  butcher  to  become  of 
much  more  value  to  his  employer,  by  economy, 
and  also  to  become  a  man  proper  to  use  the 
title  of  butcher.  Butchering  is  not  merely  cut- 
ting roasts,  chops,  steaks,  hams,  bacon,  and  do- 
ing general  "garde  mange"  work;  it  consists  of 
a  knowledge  of  what  to  do  with  meat  in  its 
every  use,  and  how  to  utilize  every  particle  to 
advantage,  hence,  as  you  have  read  so  far  in 
this  book,  I  have  been  profuse  in  explanations 
of  the  uses  of  meat  and  how  to  properly  take 
care  of  it;  as  the  BUTCHER'S  BILL  is  al- 
ways the  heaviest  one  for  the  proprietor  to 
meet  for  the  back  part  of  the  house. 
DANISH  SMOKED  SAUSAGE— The  following 
recipes  have  been  obtained  from  the  largest  and 
best  sausage  factory  of  Copenhagen,  Denmark. 
For  this  recipe,  use  25  pounds  each  of  lean 
beef  and  pork,  12  pounds  of  fat  cut  fine  and  8 
pounds  of  fat  cut  into  small  dice,  two  and  a 
half  pounds  of  salt.  30  gram,  powdered  salt- 
petre, 70  gram,  powdered  sugar,  85  gram, 
ground  white  pepper.  Remove  all  sinews,  then 
chop  the  beef  and  pork  together;  when  about 
half  chopped,  add  the  12  pounds  of  fat  and  fin- 
ish by  chopping  all  fine,  adding  the  seasonings 
toward  the  finish;  then  work  in  thoroughly  the 
8  pounds  of  fat  cut  in  small  dice.  When  well 
mixed  the  whole  mass  should  be  packed  tightly 
(n  a  wooden  trough  for  24  hours  so  as  to  allow 
the  saltpeter  to  effect  its  color  and  also  render 
the  mass  more  firm.  The  meat  is  then  placed 
into  the  sausage  filler,  and  filled  into  beef  cas- 
ings as  TIGHTLY  AS  POSSIBLE.  The  tighter 
the  skin  is  filled,  the  better  the  sausage  will  be 
for  cutting  when  dried.  When  the  casings  ate 
filled,  they  should  be  laid  in  a  pickling  tub  and 
lightly  covered  with  coarse  salt,  place  a  board 
on  top  and  let  them  remain  till  the  salt  has 
turned  into  pickle,  then  lift  them  out  and  hang 
in  the  air  until  ALL  moisture  has  run  off  them. 
When  dry,  they  should  be  smoked  in  cold 
smoke  until  they  are  a  rich  dark  brown  in  color. 
The  sausage  is  then  ready  for  eating,  and  will 
keep  for  several  months.  Length,  about  eigh- 
teen inches. 


PORK  SAUSAGE— For  this  recipe,  use  25 
pounds  each  of  beef  and  pork,  twelve  and  a 
half  pounds  of  pork  fat  cut  in  small  dice,  one 
and  a  half  pounds  of  salt,  30  gram,  powdered 
saltpetre,  50  gram,  ground  white  pepper,  50 
gram,  powdered  sugar,  13  gram,  each  of  ground 
ginger  and  nutmeg.  Remove  all  sinews,  then 
chop  the  beef  and  pork  together  quite  fine, 
adding  the  seasonings  towards  the  finish,  then 
add  the  diced  fat  and  thoroughly  mix.  When  * 
mixed  placed  into  the  filler  and  fill  TIGHTLY 
into  beef  casings,  tying  into  18-inch  lengths; 
hang  in  the  air  for  24  hours,  then  smoke  in 
very  warm  smoke  till  the  skins  are  brown;  then 
boil  them  until  the  sausage  is  as  elastic  as  an 
indiarubber  ball  and  will  bounce  if  dropped  on 
the  table.  This  is  a  sure  proof  that  the  saus- 
age is  thoroughly  cooked.  When  done,  dry 
them  and  glaze  the  skins.  Serve  as  in  the  first 
recipe,  in  slices,  as  an  appetizer  or  Hors 
d'oeuvre. 

KNOCKPOLSE  OR  HARD  SMOKED  DANISH 
SAUSAGE — For  this  recipe,  use  21  pounds  of 
beef,  12  pounds  each  of  veal  and  pork  and  5 
pounds  of  pork  fat  cut  into  small  dice,  one  and 
a  quarter  pounds  of  salt,  30  gram,  powdered 
saltpetreris  gram,  ground  nutmeg,  20  gram, 
each  of  ground  cinnamon  and  ginger,  60  gram, 
ground  white  pepper,  4  garlic  cloves  and  4 
small  shallots  finely  grated.  First  chop  beef 
and  veal  together  half  fine,  then  add  the  pork 
and  finish  chopping  till  fine,  adding  the  season- 
ings towards  the  finish;  then  thoroughly  work 
in  the  pork  fat  cut  in  small  dice.  Place  the 
meat  in  the  sausage  filler  and  fill  into  hog  cas- 
ings, tying  in  six  inch  lengths,  meat  NOT  to  be 
filled  too  tightly.  When  filled,  hang  to  dry  for 
a  day  and  smoke  in  warm  smoke.  Boil  for  eat- 
ing hot  or  cold. 

WEINERPOLSE  OR  BAVARIAN  SAUSAGE— 
For  this  recipe,  use  25  pounds  of  pork,  12 
pounds  of  veal,  12  pounds  of  pork  fat,  20 
ounces  of  salt,  30  gram,  powdered  saltpetre,  30 
gram,  ground  coriander,  50  gram,  powdered 
sugar,  60  gram,  ground  white  pepper,  2  garlic 
cloves  and  4  shallots  grated  fine.  Use  only  the 
best  meat  and  CAREFULLY  remove  all 
sinews.  Mince  the  pork  and  veal  together  first, 
then  mince  the  fat,  then  thoroughly  mix  all  to- 
gether, adding  the  seasonings.  Place  into  the 
sausage  filler  and  fill  into  sheep  or  lamb  cas- 
ings, tying  into  five  inch  links.  Let  them  hang 
for  24  hours,  then  smoke  in  warm  smoke  until 
of  a  bright  brown  color;  boil  five  to  eight  min- 
utes, when  they  are  ready  for  the  table. 

LEVERPOLSE  OR  LIVER  SAUSAGE— For 
this  recipe,  use  i  large  pig's  liver,  10  pounds  of 
veal  (from  the  neck),  10  pounds  of  belly  of 
pork,  8  pounds  of  pork  fat,  3  pounds  of  salt,  40 
gram,   powdered  thyme,    50    gram,    each    of 


138 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


ground  nutmeg  and  ginger,  60  gram,  of  pow- 
dered marjoram,  140  gram,  ground  white  pep- 
per, 5  pounds  of  lean  pork,  4  small  onions  in 
winter,  NONE  in  summer,  as  they  easily  cause 
acidity.  Remove  sinews  and  gristle  from  the 
pork  and  veal,  boil  them  and  mince  together. 
The  fat  to  be  cut  into  small  dice,  the  liver  to  be 
skinned,  and  the  thick  veins  removed  and  to  be 
boiled  in  the  boiling  broth  for  five  minutes; 
then  chop  it  a  little,  add  a  little  salt,  and  mince 
quite  fine.  Now  throw  the  minced  veal  and 
pork,  diced  fat  and  liver  into  the  mixer  along 
with  the  five  pounds  of  minced  RAW  lean  pork, 
add  the  spices  and  a  cupful  of  the  fat  and  water 
from  the  broth  and  mix  altogether  thoroughly. 
Place  the  meat  into  the  sausage  filler  and  fill 
into  hog  casings  NOT  too  tight,  tying  into  18- 
inch  lengths.  Then  boil  the  sausages  in  boil- 
ing water  20  minutes,  take  up,  wash  them  and 
lay  them  on  a  table  to  cool.  They  are  then 
ready  for  the  table,  cut  in  slices  cold.  Are  also 
Dsed  fried  in  slices  warm.  This  sausage  can 
be  smoked  in  cold  smoke  in  winter,  and  keeps 
well. 

LEVERPOSTEJ.LIVERWURST  OR  DANISH 
LIVER  SAUSAGE— 10  pounds  of  pigs'  flare, 
3  or  4  pig's  livers  according  to  size,  4  to  5 
pounds  of  minced  lean  pork,  10  eggs,  6  to  12 
anchovies  according  to  size.  Add  pepper,  salt, 
nutmeg  and  cinnamon  to  season  according  to 
taste.  Fill  into  beef  casings,  boil  two  hours. 
These  are  well  liked  by  most  people. 

BEEF  SAUSAGES— A  good  article  for  the 
"help's  hall".  Take  20  pounds  of  flank  of 
beef  freed  from  skin  and  bones,  cut  it  up  into 
inch  pieces  and  mix  thoroughly  into  it  10 
ounces  of  salt,  4  ounces  of  pepper,  half  an 
ounce  of  ground  nutmeg,  and  2  ounces  of 
rubbed  sage,  then  mince  through  the  machine; 
meanwhile  soak  4  loaves  of  bread  (eight  pounds) 
squeeze  it  dry  and  amalgamate  with  the  meat, 
then  add  DRY,  three  pounds  of  sifted  cracker 
meal;  then  place  the  whole  into  the  sausage 
filler  and  fill  into  sheep  casings,  link  them; 
then  separate  the  links,  arrange  in  baking  pan, 
and  bake  till  done  and  brown,  about  15  min- 
utes. 

BLOOD  SAUSAGE— Use  cheek  meat,  heart, 
lungs,  and  pork  rinds  in  any  quantity  that  is 
convenient.  Cut  the  pork  rinds  into  small 
pieces,  boil  in  clean  water  until  three  parts 
cooked,  saving  the  broth  and  the  rinds.  Cut 
the  balance  of  the  meat  together  quite  fine, 
and  boil  it  slowly  with  the  pork  rinds  and 
broth,  allowing  the  broth  to  cover  the  meat. 
Remove  the  fat  that  comes  to  the  surface,  cook 
until  it  is  well  done.  Take  one  gallon  of  calf's 
or  pig's  fresh  blood  immediately  after  killing. 
Stir  it  in  a  vessel  10  to  15  minutes  until  it  will 
retain  its  fluid  condition.     Then   pass  through 


a  fine  sieve  to  break  up  any  lumps.  Mix  15 
pounds  of  the  cooked  meat  as  above  with  one 
gallon  of  blood  and  season  to  taste.  Pour 
through  a  funnel  into  beef  middle  casings,  fill- 
ing three  parts  full,  the  end  being  tied.  Tie 
the  open  end,  and  place  the  sausage  in  the 
broth  and  allow  it  to  boil.  The  blood,  in  cook- 
ing, will  expand  and  fill  out  the  remaining  part 
of  the  casing.  Stir  continually,  or  the  blood 
will  all  collect  in  the  lower  side  of  the  casing. 
When  cooked,  the  sausage  will  rise  to  the  sur- 
face, owing  to  the  expansion  of  the  air.  Where 
ever  air  collects,  pierce  with  a  fork  or  fat  will 
fill  these  places.  When  of  a  good  appearance, 
remove  and  wash  in  clean  cold  water  and  allow 
it  to  remain  there  till  cold.  The  sausage  may 
be  improved  by  smoking  cold  over  a  low  fire  of 
shavings  and  sawdust.  A  hot  fire  will  cause  it 
to  sweat  and  spoil  its  appearance. 

BLOOD  SAUSAGE  (NORTH  GERMANY)— 
Boil  fat  pork  till  not  quite  cooked  and  then  cut 
it  into  small  dice.  To  every  10  pounds  boil  2 
pounds  of  well  dried  pork  rinds,  and  a  calf's  or 
pig's  lungs,  or,  instead  of  that,  a  corresponding 
quantity  of  pork  trimmings.  When  these  are 
boiled  tender,  put  the  rinds  and  lungs  or  trim- 
mings through  the  mincing  machine,  scald  the 
pork  dice,  and  add  enough  well  beaten  pig's 
blood  to  make  the  whole  moderately  liquid, 
then  get  the  exact  weight  (reckon  12  pounds  to 
the  gallon).  To  every  gallon  add  6  ounces  of 
salt,  I  ounce  of  white  pepper,  %  ounce  each 
of  ground  cloves  and  marjoram.  Stir  all  well 
together  and  fill  into  casings.  Boil  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  until  no  blood  oozes  out  on  the 
sausages  being  pricked.  On  coming  out  of  the 
boiler,  wash  in  warm  water,  and  lay  on  a  table 
to  cool,  and  afterwards  smoke  for  a  few  days 
in  cold  smoke.  (To  every  10  pounds  of  sausage 
meat,  reckon  about  one  and  a  half  pounds  of 
blood). 

BLOOD  SAUSAGE  (FRENCH)— Take  equal 
quantities  of  lean  and  fat  pork  and  boil  it  till 
tender;  then  cut  the  fat  into  small  dice  and  the 
lean  meat  into  small  pieces.  Meanwhile  have 
some  onions,  leeks  and  shallots  steamed  soft, 
added  to  the  above  meat.  To  every  10  pounds 
of  this  sausage  meat  add  2  pounds  of  pig's 
blood,  5  ounces  of  salt,  yi  ounce  of  white  pep- 
per and  one  tenth  of  an  ounce  each  of  ground 
mace  and  thyme.  Stir  all  well  together  and  fill 
into  narrow  hog  casings.  Boil  until  no  blood 
exudes  on  being  pricked.  Then  remove  and 
wash  in  warm  water,  and  let  cool  on  a  table. 

BOLOGNA  SAUSAGE— Use  lean  fresh  meat, 
trimmings  and  cheek  meat.  Chop  together 
very  fine;  while  chopping  add  spices  and  sea- 
soning, and  from  25  to  30  ounces  of  salt  to 
every  100  pounds  of  meat.  To  every  100 
pounds  of  beef  add  5  pounds  of  pure  fat,  either 
fresh  or  salted  pork.      When  the  beef  is  nearly 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


X39 


chopped  add  from  one  to  one  and  a  half  pounds 
of  farina  and  su£Bcient  water  to  suit;  mix 
thoroughly.  Stuff  into  beef  middle  casings. 
Tie  the  ends  together  into  rings  24  inches  long. 
Smoke  with  hickory  wood  and  hickory  sawdust, 
remove  when  well  colored,  cook  in  boiling 
water.  When  the  bologna  is  sufficiently  cooked 
it  will  rise  to  the  top.  Pepper  and  coriander 
are  the  spices  used  for  bolognas. 

BOLOGNA  SAUSAGE  (ITALIAN)— Take  27 
pounds  each  of  raw  lean  pork,  cooked  pickled 
pork  and  raw  veal,  5  pounds  of  anchovies  finely 
chopped  together.  Then  add  14  pounds  of  raw 
fat  pork  cut  in  small  dice;  season  with  18 
ounces  of  salt,  11  ounces  of  white  pepper,  4 
ounces  of  ground  caper,  21  ounces  of  peeled 
pistachio  nuts  cooked  in  wine.  After  carefully 
mixing  the  meat  and  spices,  distribute  amongst 
it  six  pickled  and  cooked  tongues  cut  in  slices. 
Then  fill  into  beef  middle  casings  or  bungs. 
Wrap  each  sausage  in  a  clean  cloth,  tie  round 
with  twine,  then  boil  one  hour,  take  up,  lay 
them  out  in  a  cool  place  for  24  hours,  remove 
the  cloth,  wipe  with  a  warm  cloth,  pour  over 
them  either  colored  or  uncolored  fat,  then  dec- 
orate. 

BRUNSWICK.  CERVELAT  SAUSAGE— For 
every  block  of  fifty  pounds  take  28  pounds  of 
lean  pork,  10  pounds  of  lean  beef  freed  from 
sinews,  12  pounds  of  bacon  fat  cut  in  shreds,  2 
pounds  of  salt,  3  ounces  of  coarse  ground  white 


out  pricking  them,  then  take  them  up  into  cold 
running  water,  letting  the  water  run  till  they 
are  cold  and  firm. 
MOSAIC  SAUSAGE— Take  an  18  pound  leg  of 
pork,  bone  it  out  and  remove  all  skin  and 
sinews,  this  will  leave  15  pounds  of  meat;  cut 
this  up,  put  into  a  stone  crock  after  first  rub- 
bing into  it  12  ounces  of  salt,  i  ounce  of  cane 
sugar,  and  }i  an  ounce  of  powdered  saltpetre; 
put  on  the  cover  and  allow  to  macerate  for  24 
hours,  then  take  it  from  the  crock  and  mince  it 
with  5  pounds  of  lean  veal,  adding  during  the 
mincing  i  ounce  of  white  pepper,  Yi  of  an 
ounce  each  of  mace  and  ginger  and  one-sixth  of 
an  ounce  of  cardamons.  Then  fill  into  skins  6 
inches  thick  and  8  inches  long,  three  parts  full. 
To  make  the  mosaic  work  use  long  inch  square 
pieces  of  red  cooked  tongue  each  wrapped 
neatly  with  a  thin  shred  of  bacon  fat.  also  a 
column  each  of  blood  sausage,  Frankfort  sau- 
sage and  liver  sausage,  each  wrapped  like 
the  tongue.  To  insert  these  columns,  take  a 
stick  a  little  thicker  than  the  column,  dip  it  in- 
to cold  water,  push  it  into  the  sausage,  with- 
draw it,  then  slip  in  the  mosaics  at  equal  dis- 
tances, then  tie  the  sausage,  hang  up  in  smoke 
for  one  hour,  then  boil  very  gently  for  an  hour 
and  three-quarters,  then  smoke  again  lightly. 
[N.  B.  Both  while  smoking  and  simmering, 
keep  the  sausage  in  an  upright  position  so  that 
the  inlaying  may  be  kept  straight] . 


pepper,    i    ounce   of  powdered^  saltpetre,   2>^    CAMBRIDGE  SAUSAGE-This   makes   a  nice 

breakfast  sausage:  Take  12  pounds  of  lean  and 
6  pounds  of  fat  pork,  cut  it  into  small  pieces  and 
rub  well  into  it  9  ounces  of  prepared  sausage 
seasoning,  pass  through  the  mincing  machine, 
then  mix  into  it  3  pounds  of  scalded  rice,  2 
pounds  of  cracker  meal.  Place  the  whole  then 
into  the  filler,  fill  into  sheep  casings,  link  up 
and  use. 


ounces  of  powdered  sugar.  First  mince  the 
beef  very  fine,  then  add  the  pork  and  mince 
and  mix  the  two  together  till  the  pork  is  about 
the  size  of  peas;  then  add  the  pork  fat  which 
must  be  mixed  until  it  shows  amongst  the  rest 
in  pieces  the  size  of  beans;  then  add  the  mixed 
spices  and  salt,  mixing  well.  After  a  thorough 
mixing,  place  into  the  filler  and  stuff  tightly  in- 
to small  middle  beef  gut  casings.  They  must 
now  be  hung  in  a  well  ventilated  room  of  60  COBLENZ  SAUSAGE-A  good  seller  for  restau- 
degrees  temperature  for  two  weeks  until  they        rants:  Take  lo  pounds  each  of  veal  and  pork,  cut 


begin  to  look  red  under  the  skins;  then  smoke 
them  in  cold  dry  smoke  until  they  take  on  a 
cherry  red  color;  then  keep  in  a  well  aired 
room  for  use  or  sale. 
SARDINE  AND  LIVER  SAUSAGE— For  this 
recipe,  use  8  pounds  of  pigs  liver,  7  pounds  of 
lean  and  4  pounds  of  fat  fresh  pork,  6  pounds 
of  fresh  bacon  and  }i  a  pound  of  sardines,  12 
ounces  of  salt,  1%  ounces  of  white  pepper,  yi 
an  ounce  each  of  ground  ginger  and  marjoram, 
and  Yi  of  an  ounce  of  ground  thyme.  Cut  the 
liver  into  strips,  wash  it,  then  blanch  it;  drain 
dry,  then  chop  it.  Boil  the  lean  pork  for  half 
an  hour,  then  chop  with  the  liver;  blanch  the 
fat  pork  and  add  it  with  the  bacon  and  season- 
ing and  sardines,  mincing  all  fine  and  thor- 
oughly mixing.  Fill  this  into  skins  nine  inches 
long,  not  too  tightly,  boil  for  half  an  hour  with- 


it  up  and  allow  to  macerate  for  24  hours  after 
being  rubbed  with  12  ounces  of  salt  and  ^  an 
ounce  of  powdered  saltpetre.  First  chop  the 
veal  very  fine,  then  add  the  pork  and  chop  all 
together,  adding  i  ounce  of  white  pepper,  Yi  o^ 
an  ounce  each  of  ground  ginger  and  peppermint, 
three  shallots  and  three  cloves  of  garlic.  Mince 
till  the  fat  shows  through  the  rest  like  pin  heads, 
then  add  water  as  much  as  the  meat  will  take, 
leaving  it  very  stiff;  place  then  into  the  filler,  fill 
into  sheep  casings,  link  them  up  into  6  to  the 
pound;  hang  up  for  some  hours  to  dry:  then 
smoke  with  mixed  sawdust  at  a  temperature  of 
100"  Fahr,  till  they  are  a  beautiful  dark  orange 
color,  about  i  hour.  To  serve,  simmer  them 
for  lo  minutes. 
EPPING  SAUSAGE— (I).  23  pounds  of  lean 
beef,  7  pounds  of  fat  pork,  8  pounds  of  bread, 


140 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


soaked  and  pressed  dry,  4  ounces  of  white  pep- 
per, 13  ounces  of  salt,  %  of  an  ounce  each  of 
ground  nutmeg  and  ginger,  %  of  an  ounce  of 
rubbed  marjoram.  Mix  the  seasonings  with 
the  meat,  mince  fine,  then  work  in  the  bread; 
place  into  the  filler,  fill  into  sheep  casings,  link 
them,  and  use  by  frying  and  broiling. 

EPPING  SAUSAGE— (2).  30  pounds  of  pork 
fat  and  lean,  8  pounds  of  bread  soaked  and 
pressed  dry,  4  ounces  of  white  pepper,  13 
ounces  of  salt,  X  of  an  ounce  each  of  mace 
and  rubbed  sage.     Prepare  and  use  as  above. 

FRANKFORT  SAUSAGES (WEINERWURST) 
— 9  pounds  of  veal,  36  pcunds  of  lean  pork  and 
5  pounds  of  fat  pork.  Chop  finely,  adding  a 
seasoning  of  i  pound  of  salt,  6  ounces  of  white 
pepper,  and  one  head  of  garlic;  when  ready 
place  into  the  filler  and  fill  into  sheep  casingsi 
linking  them  at  about  four  to  the  pound.  Smoke 
for  48  hours,  boil  for  5  minutes  before  serving 
plain  or  with  sauerkraut,  etc. 

CHICKEN  HAM  AND  TONGUE  SAUSAGE— 
10  pounds  of  lean  pork,  4  pounds  of  fat  pork,  4 
pounds  of  veal,  2  pounds  of  ox  tongue,  4  pounds 
of  granulated  rice  scalded,  2  pounds  of  cracker 
meal,  the  meat  from  one  fowl  and  six  hard 
boiled  eggs,  9  ounces  of  salt,  3  ounces  of  pep- 
per, yi  an  ounce  each  of  ground  mace  and 
finely  chopped  parsley,  and  %  of  an  ounce  of 
powdered  thyme.  Cut  the  meats  into  pieces, 
add  the  seasoning  and  rice,  mince  altogether  till 
fine,  then  the  eggs  minced,  and  the  meal,  fill  into 
•weasand  casings,  simmer  slowly  for  an  hour, 
use  cold  in  slices. 

TRUFFLED  LIVER  SAUSAGE-Take  5  pounds 
of  pig's  liver  and  3  pounds  of  fat  pork.  Mince 
these  together  very  fine,  and  add  a  X  of  a  pound 
of  truffles  cut  into  narrow  strips  and  cooked  in 
wine.  Add  a  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  and 
knead  together.  Fill  into  narrow  hog  casings, 
simmer  for  about  half  an  hour,  wash  well  in  cold 
water  and  hang  up  to  dry.  If  to  be  kept  any 
time,  smoke  for  a  dry.  Take  care  to  use  no 
spices,  otherwise  the  flavor  of  the  truffles  will  be 
spoiled. 

GOOSE  LIVER  SAUSAGE,  TRUFFLED-Take 
2  pounds  of  well  blanched  calf's  liver  cut  in 
pieces  the  size  of  small  nuts,  4  pounds  each  of 
lean  and  fat  firm  fresh  pork  both  minced  very 
fine.  Next  add  4  shallots  sliced  and  fried  with 
butter  to  a  golden  color.  Season  with  5  ounces 
of  salt,  yi  an  ounce  of  white  pepper,  one-fifth 
of  an  ounce  each  of  ground  ginger  and  mace. 
Then  cut  from  a  fine  red  cooked  tongue  half 
a  pound,  cut  in  very  small  dice  also  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  truffles;  mix  all  well.  Then  take 
5  pounds  of  geese  livers  blanched  and  sliced. 
Fill  into  the  filler  alternately  the  truffled  meat 
and  the  sliced  geese  {livers.  Then  press  into 
very  wide  pig  skins  not  more  than  12  inches 


long.  Boil  them  gently  one  hour  in  fresh  clear 
water.  When  done,  take  up  into  cold  running 
water,  which  will  make  them  beauiifully  white. 

LIVER  SAUSAGE— To  every  two  hog's  livers 
add  one  calf's  liver;  cut  in  thin  slices.  Scald 
well  with  hot  water  until  the  livers  look  white 
and  clean.  Chop  well,  adding  one-eighth  the 
amount  of  pure  pork  fat,  boiling  the  fat  for  half 
an  hour  before  mixing.  Mix  and  chop  together 
very  fine,  adding  four  ounces  of  fat  pork  to 
every  five  pounds  of  the  balance.  Then  boil 
for  half  an  hour,  adding  the  following  spices  to 
each  100  pounds:  7  ounces  salt,  2  ounces  pep- 
per, I  ounce  ground  marjoram,  yi  ounce  each 
of  ground  sage,  basil  and  thyme,  2  minced 
onions  and  a  small  head  of  garlic.  Stuff  from 
stuflfer  into  narrow  hog  casings  13  to  18  inches 
long  (not  filling  very  full)  tying  the  ends  with 
twine.  When  filled  and  tied,  they  are  cooked 
in  water  just  below  the  boiling  point  for  thirty 
minutes  (to  give  the  white  appearance)  contin- 
ually stirring  them.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
prick  the  air  places,  or  they  will  fill  with  fat. 
After  cooling,  hang  for  three  days  in  the  open 
air,  then  smoke  for  six  days  over  a  slow  fire. 

SARDINE  LIVER  SAUSAGE— Use  40  pounds 
boiled  pigs'  livers,  7^  pounds  boned  and 
trimmed  sardines,  15  pounds  cooked  veal,  7>^ 
pounds  cooked  lean  pork,  20  pounds  cooked  fat 
pork,  10  pounds  raw  fat  pork.  Chop  together 
very  fine,  and  add  14  ounces  salt,  10  ounces 
white  pepper,  i  ounce  each  ground  thyme  and 
marjoram.  Stuff  into  beef  middle  casings. 
Cook  and  smoke  the  same  as  the  liver  sausage 
of  the  preceding  recipe. 

LYONS  SAUSAGE  —  (German  recipe).  The 
Lyons  sausage  (Saucisse  de  Lyon)  was  intro- 
duced into  Germany  in  ths  year  1852  by  Liil 
on  his  return  from  his  tour  in  France.  Sausage 
makers  throughout  Germany  then  tried  to  make 
it,  because  of  his  success  with  it,  but  no  one 
else  succeeded.  It  can  only  be  manufactured 
to  keep  by  taking  the  greatest  of  care.  When 
it  is  well  made  and  well  dried,  it  would  pass  for 
Cervelat  sausage.  It  is  prepared  in  the  follow- 
ing manner:  For  a  quantity  of  40  pounds  take 
25  pounds  of  well  fed  pork,  10  pounds  beef  from 
a  young  bullock,  which  should  be  chopped  up 
when  warm  and  then  pounded  in  mortar,  5 
pounds  pork  fat,  cut  into  dice  the  size  of  peas 
and  then  cooked  for  a  little  in  boiling  water,  12 
ounces  salt,  2  ounces  Indian  cane  sugar,  i  ounce 
powdered  saltpetre.  Mix  the  two  lean  meats, 
then  mix  the  salt,  saltpetre  and  sugar.  Rub 
them  into  the  meats,  and  let  it  stand  for  48 
hours  in  a  cool  room  in  summer,  and  a  warm 
room  in  winter.  Now  chop  up  the  meat  fine, 
then  mix  the  seasonings  and  add  them.  They 
are  2  ounces  white  pepper,  yi  ounce  each  of 
ground  white  ginger  and  nutmeg,  2  shallots 
salted  and  grated.     Before  the  pork  fat  is  put 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


X4« 


amongst  the  rest,  the  spices  should  be  well 
mixed  up  amongst  the  other  things  and  a  little 
water  worked  into  the  mass.  Now  mix  in 
lightly  and  quickly  the  pea  diced  pork  fat.  Put 
the  meat  into  medium  wide  beef  runners,  15 
inches  long,  pressing  it  in  very  tight.  Now 
DRY  the  sausages  WELL  before  smoking. 
When  they  are  smoked  a  fine  red  color,  put 
them  at  once  into  a  saucepan,  and  cook  for  half 
an  hour  at  a  heat  of  203"  Fahr.  When  the 
sausages  are  cool,  there  are  usually  some 
wrinkles  in  the  skin;  this  can  be  remedied  by 
putting  them  in  pairs  into  boiling  water  not 
more  than  fifteen  seconds.  After  they  are  cot  1 
again,  they  should  be  smoked  in  cold  smoke  for 
eight  hours;  they  are  then  ready. 

OBERLAND  LIVER  SAUSAGE  — Take  a 
shoulder  of  pork  and  remove  the  bones  and 
skin.  Boil  it  well  with  three  pounds  of  bacon 
cut  in  dice.  Then  mince  the  shoulder  with 
half  its  weight  of  raw  liver  and  a  large  onion 
chopped  very  fine;  add  the  diced  bacon  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  grated  nutmeg, 
and  mix  in  a  little  fat  if  the  paste  is  too  stiff. 
Stuff  into  ox  skins  and  boil  gently  for  40  min- 
utes. Then  take  up  into  cold  running  water, 
and  keep  them  in  it  until  quite  stiff. 

POLISH  SAUSAGE— This  is  the  national  sau- 
sage of  Poland,  liked  by  rich  and  poor:  Take 
25  pounds  of  pork,  %  lean,  and  }4  fat,  which 
has  been  salted  for  a  few  days  with  i  pound 
salt  and  a  little  sugar.  Grate  finely  three  large 
cloves  of  garlic,  salt  them,  stir  in  amongst  them 
a  quart  of  water.  Then  add  the  meat  which 
has  been  chopped  into  dice  size.  Now  add  i}4 
ounces  pepper,  >^  ounce  grated  nutmeg.  Mix 
well  and  put  into  narrow  pig  skins  very  full. 
When  filled,  tie  into  fifteen  inch  lengths;  hang 
to  dry  for  a  day;  then  smoke  them  with  beech 
wood  at  a  heat  of  133"  Fahr., and  let  them  hang 
till  they  are  thoroughly  cooked  inside  merely 
with  the  hot  smoking. 

PORK  SAUSAGES  (first  class)— Take  15  pounds 
of  .ean  and  6  pounds  of  fat  pork,  cut  it  up  into 
two  inch  pieces  and  mix  with  it  14  ounces  of 
pork  sausage  seasoning,  (from  recipe  below); 
chop  together  fine,  or  run  through  meat  cutting 
machine  with  a  fine  plate;  then  thoroughly  in- 
corporate with  it  3  pounds  of  crumb  bread 
soaked  and  pressed.  When  mixed,  further 
work  in  one  pound  of  sifted  cracker  dust. 
Place  the  mass  then  into  the  sausage  filler,  and 
run  into  pig  casings,  linking  them  at  six  to  the 
pound. 

PORK  SAUSAGES(good  ordinary  sausage)-Take 
15  pounds  lean  and  fat  pork  and  pork  trim- 
mings, cut  it  up  into  two-inch  pieces  and  mix 
with  it  n  ounces  of  pork  sausage  seasoning; 
chop  fine,  then  thoroughly  incorporate  with  it  4 
pounds  of  crumb  bread  soaked  and  pressed. 
When  mixed,  further  work  in  4  pounds  of  sifted 


cracker  dust,  adding  cold  water  to  it  as  it  be- 
comes too  stiff.  When  of  the  proper  sausage 
consistency,  place  into  the  filler,  and  fill  into 
pork  casings,  linking  them  six  to  the  pound. 

PORK  SAUSAGE  SEASONING  — Thoroughly 
mix  together,  then  keep  in  tight  covered  tins, 
9  pounds  table  salt,  6  pounds  pure  ground 
white  pepper,  |^  pound  each  of  ground  mace, 
ground  nutmeg,  and  rubbed  sage  leaves,  i  ounce 
each  of  ground  cloves,  ginger  and  rubbed  basil, 
and  ^  an  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper. 

SALAMI — Use  50  pounds  of  beef  free  from  fibre, 
25  pounds  each  of  lean  and  fat  pork,  chop  very 
fine  and  add  i8>^  ounces  of  salt,  4}^  ounces 
ground  white  pepper,  i}i  ounces  ground  salt- 
petre, with  8  glasses  of  Rhine  wine,  in  which 
previously  has  been  soaked  one  pound  of  garlic. 
(In  place  of  Rhine  wine,  rum  may  be  used). 
Stuff  into  calf's  bladders.  Let  them  hang  in 
the  open  air  for  two  or  three  weeks,  then  smoke 
for  12  days. 

VERONA  SALAMI  (Salami  de  Verona)— Use  18 
pounds  of  cleaned  beef,  18  pounds  of  lean  pork, 
14  pounds  of  back  fat,  2  pounds  of  salt,  i  ounce 
of  powdered  saltpetre,  3  ounces  each  of  ground 
white  pepper  and  cane  sugar,  i  gill  of  old 
French  cognac.  First  mince  the  meat,  then 
chop  the  fat  in  amongst  it  the  size  of  pecan 
nuts;  then  mix  in  the  spices,  and  chop  until  the 
fat  is  the  size  of  peas.  Wipe  the  knives  often 
while  mincing.  Three  sticks  of  garlic  finely 
grated  may  be  added.  Use  skins  for  holding 
this,  and  bind  with  pretty  thick  string  all  the 
way  over.  For  the  rest,  prepare  like  "Cerve- 
lat  sausage"  but  do  not  smoke;  only  let  the  salami 
hang  for  four  or  five  weeks  to  dry. 

SMOKED  SAUSAGE  OR  KNACKWURST— 
Take  60  pounds  of  lean  pork,  14  pounds  of 
lean  beef  and  26  pounds  of  fat  pork.  Chop  very 
fine,  then  add  i  pound  salt,  5>^  ounces  ground 
pepper,  i}4  ounces  ground  saltpetre,  2)4  ounces 
whole  caraway  seeds,  a  small  quantity  of  grated 
garlic.  Stuff  in  beef  rounds  or  hog  casings. 
Hang  in  the  air  for  8  days,  then  smoke  for  6 
days,  they  may  then  be  preserved  in  a  cool 
dry  place. 

TENDERLOIN  SAUSAGE— Take  the  pork 
tenderloins  and  trim  them  as  near  the  shape  of 
a  sausage  as  possible;  rub  with  hot  salt,  and 
place  for  two  weeks  in  a  vessel  containing  a 
solution  of  17  ounces  of  salt  boiled  in  5  pints  of 
water.  Remove,  wash,  and  stuff  tightly  in 
beef  bungs.     Smoke  for  two  weeks. 

THURINGIAN  RED  SAUSAGE— 14  pounds 
thick  streaky  pork  off  the  belly  part  (half  tend- 
erly cooked)  cut  in  quarter  inch  dice,  3  pounds 
of  boiled  pigs  rinds,  4  pounds  raw  liver  and 
lungs  finely  minced.  This  may  be  varied  by 
substituting  boiled  tongue  or  salted  boiled 
heart,  cut  into  pieces  of  equal  size.  Now  put  8 


142 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


poands  of  blood  in  a  tin  dish,  and  then  into  a 
big  pot,   and  stir   CONSTANTLY    until  hot. 
Add  first  the  rind,  liver  and  lungs,   and  stir 
•well,  and  then  the  pork.  Season  with  24  ounces 
of  table  salt,  3  ounces  ground  white  pepper,  i 
ounce  ground  marjoram,  ^  of  an  ounce  each 
of  ground  caraway  seeds  and  ground  cloves. 
Work  all  thoroughly  together,  and  as  quickly 
as  possible  fill  the  hot  meat  into  the  widest 
pigskins  you  have.      Give  plenty  of  room,  and 
then  put  at  once  into  water  which  is  BOILING 
HARD;  stir  constantly.      Prick   this   sausage 
often,  and  cook  at  a  temperature  of  21 2"  Fahr. 
It  is  ready  when,  on  pricking,  the  fat  which  ex- 
udes is  perfectly  clear.     Smoke  in  cold  smoke, 
with  some  juniper  berries  in  the  sawdust. 
TOMATO  SAUSAGES- -Lean  mutton  6  pounds, 
mutton  fat  8  pounds,  canned  tomatoes  3  pounds, 
sifted  cracker  dust  i>^  pounds,  scalded  granu- 
lated rice  I  pound,  10  ounces  sausage  season- 
ing.  Cut  the  meat  up  fine  in  the  machine,  take 
out  into  a  mixer,  and  add  the  rice  and  tomatoes, 
then  the  seasoning  and  the  cracker  dust.   Place 
in  the  filler,   fill  into  sheep  casings,  and  link 
them  6  to  the  pound.     (When  cheap  enough, 
use  fresh  tomatoes). 
VEAL  SAUSAGES— Chop  together  22  pounds  of 
veal  freed  from  sinew  and  11  pounds  of  bacon, 
and  make  very  fine;  season  with   12  ounces  of 
salt,  z}i  ounces  ground  white  pepper,    3  nut- 
megs grated  and  ^    ounce   of  ground  mace. 
Knead  all  together,  adding  a  pint  of  milk.    Fill 
into  narrow  skins. 
WESTPHALIAN  SAUSAGE— Take  three  parts 
of  lean  and  one  part  of  fat  pork,  and  cut  into 
pieces  like  small  dice;  then  season  with  salt, 
pepper  and  cloves,  so  that  it  tastes  mildly  of 
the  spices,  and  knead  all  together.      Stuff  into 
long  narrow  casings,  and  let  dry  out  of  doors 
for  several  days;  then  smoke  yellow.     NOTE: 
The  above  sausage  is  made  almost  exactly  like 
the 
SASTER  SAUSAGE  of  the  country  people  of 
Scotland,  only  the  Scotch  omit  the  smoking, 
and  the  "sasters"  are  dried  by  hanging  from  a 
string  attached  to   the  ceiling  in  the  kitchen. 
The  Scotch  sausages  are  usually  kept  for  sev- 
eral months  before  being  used. 

POTATOES  are  much  improved  if  peeled  and 
laid  in  cold  water  overnight.  It  saves  time  in 
the  morning,  and  they  are  nicer  and  whiter  in 
consequence. 

IN  STEAMING  POTATOES,  put  a  cloth  over 
them  before  placing  on  the  steamer  lid,  they 
will  then  take  less  time  to  cook  and  be  much 
more  mealy  than  when  steamed  without  the 
cloth. 

TO  EXTRACT  FROST  FROM  POTATOES— 
After  paring,  put  them  in  cold  water  for  an 


hour,  boil  them  with  a  small  piece  of  saltpetre 
and  the  sweet  taste  will  be  removed. 
POTATOES  BAKED  IN  THEIR  SKINS,  will 
always  come  out  more  dry  and  mealy,  if  a  small 
piece  be  cut  ofiE  ONE  end,  to  allow  steam  to 
escape  in  cooking. 
POTATOES  WHEN  BOILING  are  sometimes 
allowed  too  much  water,  so   that  it  boils  over 
on  to  the  range,  producing  a  very  disagreeable 
smell.     A  little  baking  soda  thrown  on  to  any 
burning   overflow   of   this  nature  will  immed- 
iately drive  away  all  odors. 
FRENCH    FRIED    POTATOES— Raw   peeled 
potatoes  cut  in  strips  about  the  size  of  the  little 
finger,  fried  in  hot  fat  till  done,  taken  up  and 
drained,  sprinkled  with  salt,  then  served. 
PARISIENNE  POT ATOES-Balls  about  the  size 
of  small  cherries  scooped  out  of  raw  potatoes; 
cooked  and  served  the  same  as  French  fried. 
LYONNAISE— Cold    boiled    potatoes,    either 
minced  or  sliced  thinly,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  mixed  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and 
minced  fried  onions;  fried  with  butter  in  the 
form  of  an  omelet. 
SAUTfe— Also    called    HOME    FRIED,    COT- 
TAGE FRIED,  GERMAN  FRIED:  are  thinly 
sliced  cold  boiled  potatoes,   seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  browned  on  both  sides  in  a  fry  pan 
containing  butter.     For  RESTAURANT  serv- 
ice they  should  be  served  in  the  form  of  an 
omelet,  nicely  browned. 
STEWED   IN   CREAM— Raw    potatoes  cut   in 
very   small   dice,    boiled    till    perfectly  done, 
drained,  put  in  a  stew  pan  with  a  piece  of  good 
butter,  seasoned  with  salt,  covered  with  cream, 
simmered  for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  served. 
HASHED  IN  CREAM— Same  as  the  preceding, 
but   having   the  potatoes  minced  after  whole 
boiling,  instead  of  cut  in  dice. 
SCALLOPED  POTATOES—Same  as  stewed  In 
cream  above;  when  rerdy  to  serve,    put  into 
scallop  or  vegetable  dishes,  sprinkle  with  grated 
cheese  and  breadcrumbs,  brown  off  quickly  in 
the  oven  or  under  a  salamander. 
HASHED   BROWNED— Same  as    the   minced 
Lyonnaise,  but  omitting  the  parsley  and  onion. 
JULIENNE — Raw  peeled  potatoes  cut  in  shreds 
like  matches,  fried  a  delicate  brown  in  very  hot 
lard,  taken  up  and  drained,  sprinkled  with  salt 
and  fine  parsley  dust. 
STEWED  WITH  BACON— Bacon  cut  in  small 
dice,  fried  well  done,   drained,   mixed  in  with 
potatoes  stewed  in  cream. 
POTATOES  REITZ— Shapes  of  the  parallelo- 
gram,  or  long  square  (about  two  inches  long 
and  an  inch  square)  cut  with  a  ribbed  scallop 
knife,  steamed  two-thirds  done,   then  plunged 
into  hot  fat  and  finished  like  French  fried. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


143 


POTATOES  VILLAGEOISE— Cold  boiled  pota-  to  a  sautoir  with  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  salt, 

toes,  minced  and  simmered  in  Bfechamel  sauce.  put  the  lid  on  and  stew  gently  till  done;  served 

SARATOGA    CHIPS— Very    thin    shavings    of  sprinkled  with  parsley  dust, 

peeled  potatoes  cut  with  a  machine,  steeped  in  CURRIED  POTATOES — Same  as  the  preced- 


ice  water  to  draw  out  the  starch  and  become 
crisp;  fry  a  few  at  a  time  in  very  hot  lard. 

POTATOES  BROILED— Either  plain  or  sweet 
potatoes,  cold  boiled,  cut  lengthwise  one-fourth 
of  an  inch  thick,  seasoned  with  salt,  dipped  in 
melted  butter,  then  in  flour,  broiled  between  a 
a  wire  hinged  broiler;  served  with  mditre 
d'hotel  butter  over  them. 

STUFFED  POTATOES— Whole  peeled  pota- 
toes, made  hollow  with  a  column  cutter,  ends 
levelled,  the  both  then  steamed,  the  column 
pieces  mashed,  and  mixed  with  one-third  of  its 
bulk  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese;  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper,  grated  nutmeg  and  bound  with 
some  whipped  eggs;  stuff  the  potatoes  with  the 
mixture,  arrange  in  a  baking  pan  with  butter 
and  brown  off  quickly. 

STUFFED  POTATOES— Large  oval  shaped  po- 
tatoes, peeled,  hollowed  out  as  above,  filled  with 
any  kind  of  forcemeat,  placed  in  a  well  but^f'rsd 
pan,  and  baked  a  delicate  brown. 

POTATO  CROQUETTES— Steamed  potatoss* 
mashed  dry,  seasoned  with  salt,  butter  and  a 
few   raw   egg   yolks,    formed    into  shapes  like 


ing,  adding  a  spoonful  of  curry  powder  while 
stewing. 

POTATO  RAGOUT— Same  as  the  stewed  Pari- 
sienne,  but  when  nearly  done,  taken  up  and 
drained,  then  placed  into  a  good  Espagnole 
sauce,  and  simmered  till  done. 

POTATO  QUENELLES— The  croquette  mix- 
ture rolled  into  very  small  balls,  dipped  in 
beaten  eggs,  then  in  flour,  fried  very  quickly 
(else  they  burst)  in  very  hot  lard. 

POTATO  PUFFS— Cut  out  with  a  large  column 
cutter  the  inside  of  large  raw  pr  tatoes,  level 
the  ends,  then  cut  into  four  pieces  each  column, 
lengthwise.  Have  two  French  friers  on  the 
range  half  full  of  lard,  one  hotter  than  the 
other;  fry  the  potatoes  five  minutes  in  the  one, 
then  take  up,  and  plunge  into  the  very  hot  one; 
they  will  then  puff  out  quickly. 

POTATOES  BERNHARDT— Twirled  out  like 
a  curl  with  a  cutter,  fried  in  hot  lard,  taken  np 
and  drained,  sprinkled  with  salt  and  parsley 
dust. 

POTATOES  VICTORIA— The  croquette  mix- 
ture shaped  like  walnuts,  breaded  and  fried. 


corks,  breadcrumbed  and  fried.     Also  shaped  GLAZED   POTATOES-Very  large  balls  scooped 


like  olives  with  two  tea  spoons,  dipped  in  bat- 
ter and  fried. 

STUFFED  POTATO  CROQUETTES— Smah 
croquettes  in  the  form  of  cones,  breaded  and 
fried,  drained;  inside  then  partly  hollowed  outi 
and  replaced  with  a  salpipon;   served  upright. 

POTATOES  DUCHESSE  —  Potato  croquette 
mixture,  only  a  little  softer,  with  butter  and 
yolks  of  eggs,  forced  from  a  bag  with  a  star 
shaped  tube,  on  a  buttered  pan,  brushed  over 
with  egg  wash  and  baked. 

POTATO  FRITTERS— The  croquette  mixture- 
with  some  beaten  whites  of  eggs  worked  in. 
shaped,  breaded,  fried;  served  with  parsley 
sauce  poured  over. 

POTATOES  ORSINI— One  part  croquette  mix- 
ture, one  part  well  cooked  rice,  one  part  grated 
tongue,  the  whole  mixed,  formed  into  small 
balls,  breaded,  fried  and  served. 

POTATO  CASSEROLES— The  croquette  mix- 
ture shaped  liked  a  small  nest,  brushed  over 
with  beaten  egg,  baked  a  delicate  brown;  used 
to  receive  salpigons. 

POTATO  PATTIES— Very  small  casseroles, 
filled  with  a  salpi^on  of  game  or  fowl. 

POTATOES  CREOLE— Like  the  patties  preced- 
ing, but  filled  with  a  Creole  garniture:  these 
make  fine  entree  garnishes. 

STEWED  PARISIENNE  POTATOES— Scoop 
out  small  balls  from  raw  potatoes,  put  them  in- 


out  of  steamed  potatoes,  seasoned  with  salt, 
dipped  in  beaten  eggs,  browned  quickly  in  a 
hot  oven. 

POTATOES  NAVARRAISE— Cut  with  a  scal- 
lop knife  very  large  dice  from  peeled  raw  pota- 
toes, steam  them  till  barely  done,  finish  of  a 
fine  color  in  boiling  oil. 

POTATOES  MAITRE  D'HOTEL— Raw  pota- 
toes peeled,  cut  in  sections  like  a  section  of  an 
orange,  steamed  till  barely  done,  then  sim- 
mered till  done  in  a  thin  Vfelout^  sauce  contain- 
ing chopped  parsley,  lemon  juice,  and  a  grat* 
ing  of  nutmeg. 

POTATOES  INDIENNE— Marinade  for  three 
hours  some  minced  onions  and  hot  green 
chillies  in  lemon  juice,  add  a  little  French 
mustard  at  the  finish.  Mix  all  into  some  light 
dry  mashed  potatoes,  season  with  salt,  use  as  a 
border  to  a  curry,  with,  or  instead  of,  boiled 
rice  or  rissoto 

POTATOES  IN  CASES— Very  thin  slices  of 
cold  boiled  potatoes  and  onions,  mixed  together 
with  a  little  minced  parsley,  filled  into  fancy 
paste  cases,  with  a  little  butter,  sprinkle  with 
Parmesan  cheese,  and  bake  till  browned  and 
heated  through. 

POTATOES  HOLLANDAISE— Cut  like  sec- 
tions of  garlic,  steamed;  served  with  maitre 
d'hotel  sauce  over  them. 

POTATOES  MARIE-Steamed  potatoes,  mashed, 
made  soft  and  rich  with  cream  and  butter. 


TM 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


POTATOES  GASTRONOME— (i)  Raw,  cut 
with  column  cutter,  size  and  shapes  of  corks, 
steamed  barely  done,  then  fried  with  butter  till 
done  and  of  a  golden  color;  served  sprinkled 
with  salt  and  parsley  dust.  (2)  Cut  same  as 
No.  I,  parboiled  in  water  containing  a  little  vin- 
egar, drain,  then  saut6  with  butter  till  done, 
take  up  and  serve  with  Pferigu^ux  sauce. 

POTATOES  MAIRE— Cut  with  a  large  column 
cutter  tubes  of  raw  potatoes,  cut  these  into 
slices  six  to  the  inch,  boil  till  barely  done,  then 
simmer  till  done  in  reduced  cream. 

POTATOES  MONACO— Slices  same  as  Maire, 
cooked  same  as  Gastronome  No.  i. 

POTATOES  GENEVOISE— Take  small  fancy 
patty  pans,  butter  them  well,  then  coat  the  in- 
side with  grated  cheese,  fill  with  mashed  pota- 
toes, sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  bake  half  an 
hour  in  a  medium  oven. 

POTATOES  CONDfe- Scoop  out  balls  of  raw 
potatoes  with  a  large  scoop,  steam  barely  done, 
then  fry  till  done  and  brown  in  clarified  butter, 
serve  sprinkled  with  salt  and  parsley  dust. 

POTATOES  COLBERT— Cold  boiled  and  peeled 
potatoes,  cut  in  large  dice,  simmered  in  Colbert 
sauce;  when  serving,  sprinkle  with  parsley 
dust. 

POTATOES  CHATEAU— Olive  shapes  of  pota- 
toes turned  out  with  an  oval  scoop,  blanched, 
drained,  fried  a  light  color  in  clarified  butter. 

POTATOES  BARIGOULE— Take  small  round 
new  potatoes,  steam  till  barely  done,  then 
plunge  into  boiling  oil  till  brown;  serve 
sprinkle  i  with  salt,  pepper  and  tarragon  vine- 
gar. 

POTATOES  BRETONNE  — Cut  cold  boiled 
potatoes  in  squares  with  a  scallop  knife,  saut^ 
with  a  little  chopped  parsley,  then  simmer  in 
Bretonne  sauce. 

POTATOES  BRABANT  — Cut  like  for  Bre- 
tonne, saut^ed  with  minced  shallot  and  parsley. 

POTATOES  BIGNONNE— Scoop  balls  out  of 
raw  potatoes  with  largest  sized  scoop,  take  the 
centre  out  with  a  column  cutter,  blanch,  drain, 
fill  centres  with  forcemeat,  then  bake  till  done 
and  brown  with  butter. 

POTATOES  BRABANCONNE— Dry  mash  some 
steamed  peeled  potatoes,  mix  in  some  minced 
parboiled  onions,  a  little  chopped  parsley  and 
Parmesan  cheese,  with  a  little  cream  sauce, 
bake  in  paper  cases. 

POTATOES  ANGLAISE— (I)  Scoop  balls  out 
of  raw  potatoes  with  a  very  large  scoop,  par- 
boil with  a  little  salt  and  vinegar  in  the  water, 
take  out,  drain,  then  fry  till  done  and  brown  in 
roast  meat  drippings.  (2)  Raw  potatoes  peeled, 
trimmed,  quartered,  steamed;  served  with 
miitre  d'hdtel  sauce  over  them. 

POTATO  SOUP  (i)— One  pound  of  mashed 
potatoes  rubbed  through  the  tamis,   added  to 


one  gallon  of  very  thin  cream  sauce,  season 
with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  finish  with  a 
sprinkling  of  chopped  chervil;  serve  with  crofl- 
tons. 

POTATO  SOUP  (2)— One  pound  of  mashed 
potatoes  rubbed  through  the  tamis,  added  to 
one  gallon  of  thin  creamy  soup  made  from 
white  stock,  in  which  has  been  cooked  onion, 
carrot,  celery,  salt  pork  and  a  ham  knuckle; 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  finish  with 
a  sprinkling  of  chopped  parsley;  serve  with 
croutons. 

POTATO  SOUP  (3)— One  pound  of  mashed 
potatoes  rubbed  through  the  tamis  (they  should 
have  been  boiled  in  water  that  hams  have  been 
boiled  in);  use  this  water  in  conjunction  with 
veal  stock,  to  make  a  thin  creamy  soup,  then 
add  the  pure^  of  potatoes,  finish  with  a  liaison 
of  egg  yolks  and  cream,  remove  from  the  fire, 
and  pour  the  soup  over  a  braised  Julienne  of 
vegetables. 

POTATO  SOUP  (4)— Three  pounds  of  peeled 
potatoes  sliced  with  a  Saratoga  cutter,  one 
large  onion  peeled  and  sliced  and  one  head  of 
celery  sliced,  the  whole  put  into  a  sautoir  with 
a  cupful  of  melted  butter,  a  seasoning  of  salt, 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  put  on  the  lid,  and  let 
simmer  with  an  occasional  stir  till  quite  done, 
then  rub  the  whole  through  the  tamis;  add  this 
pure^  to  a  gallon  of  chicken  consomme,  boil 
up,  skim,  then  add  a  pint  of  good  cream;  serve 
with  crofltons. 

POTATO  SOUP  (5)— Prepare  the  pure^  as  given 
in  the  preceding  (4),  add  to  it  the  consomme, 
then  finish  it  with  asparagus  points,  and  green 
stringless  beans  cut  in  diamond  shapes. 

POTATO  SALADS— (See  salads). 

POULETTE— The  French  name  for  a  hen 
chicken,  hence  POULETTE  SAUCE  is  made 
from  chicken  broth,  as  follows:  Half  a  cup  of 
melted  butter,  flour  added  to  form  a  roux, 
moistened  with  one  quart  of  good  chicken  broth 
(strained),  seasoned  with  salt,  red  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  brought  to  the  boil  and  skimmed;  then 
is  worked  in  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream, 
finished  with  a  little  lemon  juice  and  chopped 
parsley. 

PRAIRIE  CHICKEN— Is  best  cooked  in  three 
ways,  ROASTED,  BROILED  and  in  a  SAL- 
MIS. To  roast  it,  first  pluck,  singe,  draw  and 
wipe  clean,  truss  it  with  slices  of  bacon  tied 
over  the  breast,  roast  it  rare;  serve  with  the 
gravy  from  the  roasting  strained  into  a  sauce 
Bigarade;  serve  garnished  with  watercress.  .  . 
To  broil  it,  pluck  and  singe  YOUNG  birds, 
split  down  the  back,  remove  the  breast  bone, 
truss  out  flat,  season  with  olive  oil,  salt  and 
pepper,  place  between  a  wire  hinged  broiler; 
broil  rare  done;  serve  on  toast  with  miitre 
d'hdtel  sauce  poured  over,  garnish  with  cress. 
.  .  .  For  salmis,  simmer  the  cooked  joints  in 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


145 


Madeira  sauce;  serve  garnished  with  mush- 
rooms, stoned  olives  and  fancy  croiltons.  Or 
simmer  in  Bigarade  sauce;  serve  with  sliced 
oranges  and  fancy  crofltons.  In  HUNTER'S 
STYLE  is  to  roast  the  birds  rare,  cut  in  joints, 
then  simmer  in  sauce  Chasseur;  serve  garn- 
ished with  fancy  crodtons.  .  .  Another  nice  way 
to  serve  the  bird  is  to  take  cold  roast  birds, 
joint  them,  trim  the  joints  to  a  wing  shape,  dip 
in  sauce  Richelieu,  roll  in  fresh  grated  bread- 
crumbs, then  dip  in  beaten  egg  and  again  roll 
in  the  breadcrumbs,  arrange  them  in  a  well 
buttered  pan,  sprinkle  the  tops  with  melted 
butter,  place  in  oven,  ani  let  come  to  a  nice 
brown  color,  with  the  butter  frothing  on  them; 
serve  at  once  with  sauce  Richelieu. 

PROVENC  ALE— Name  of  a  splendid  sauce;  also 
applied  to  the  Southern  French  style  of  cook- 
ing.    For  the  sauce  (see  sauces). 

PUFFS — Forms  of  hollow  pastry  (see  fritters). 

PUMPKIN— Name  cf  a  large  vegetable  fruit  of 
the  melon  species,  grows  on  vines,  the  young 
shoot  leaves  of  which  make  a  most  splendid 
substitute  for  spinach  in  the  summer  months. 

BAKED  PUMPKIN— Slices  of  peeled  pumpkin 
arranged  in  buttered  pan,  seasoned  with  salti 
moistened  with  roast  meat  gravy,  baked  and 
basted  till  done,  served  as  a  vegetable.  .  .  Also 
not  peeled,  but  baked  plain  in  slices  and  served 
like  baked  potatoes.  ,  .  Also  slices  of  peeled 
pumpkin,  steamed  for  ten  minutes,  then  placed 
in  buttered  pan,  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
sprinkled  with  Parmesan  cheese,  baked  tiU 
done  and  glazy,  then  served  at  once. 

PUMPKIN  PURE£— Slices  of  peeled  pumpkin, 
steamed  till  done,  then  rubbed  through  the 
tamis,  seasoned  with  salt  and  nutmeg,  finished 
with  a  little  cream  and  butter;  served  as  a 
vegetable. 

PUMPKIN  PIE— The  pumpkin  sliced,  peeled, 
steamed  and  rubbed  through  the  tamis,  mixed 
with  a  rich  custard,  flavored  with  cinnamon 
and  rose  water,  baked  in  custard  pie  pans  lined 
with  puff  paste. 

PRESERVED  PUMPKIN  RIND— The  thick 
cut  rind  of  the  pumpkin  may  be  preserved  in 
exactly  the  same  way  as  melon  rind(see  melon). 

PURfiE — Name  applied  in  cookery  to  vegetables, 
etc.,  first  cooked  then  rubbed  through  a  fine 
sieve;  used  as  a  basis  to  soups,  also  as  a  garn- 
ish to  entrees.  I  will  here  append  the  princi- 
pal purees  in  general  use. 

PURfeE  OF  ARTICHOKES— Peel  and  slice 
Jerusalem  artichokes,  place  them  in  a  sautoir 
with  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  pepper,  salt  and 
nutmeg,  moisten  with  a  little  white  stock,  boil 
till  done  and  the  broth  reduced,  then  add  some 
cream,  reduce  and  mash  till  like  mashed  pota- 
toes, add  a  pat  of  butter,  then  rub  through  the 
tamis.     PUR£E   OF   POTATOES   made  ex- 


actly the  same  way,  snbstitnting  potatoes  for 
artichokes. 

PURfiE  OF  CARROTS— Young  carrots  peeled 
and  sliced  with  a  Saratoga  cutter,  place  them 
in  a  sautoir  with  butter  and  a  seasoning  of  salt, 
nutmeg  and  sugar,  place  on  the  lid  and  let  sim- 
mer to  a  light  brown  color,  then  add  a  little 
good  white  stock,  and  simmer  down  to  a  glaze, 
rub  through  the  tamis  and  use  as  required. 

PURfiE  OF  CELERY— Celery  cut  up  small, 
blanched  for  five  minutes,  drained,  placed  in 
sautoir  with  butter,  season  with  salt,  sugar  and 
nutmeg,  moisten  with  a  little  white  stock,  and 
simmer  till  soft;  when  soft  and  the  stock  re- 
duced, add  a  little  Bechamel  sauce,  rub  the 
whole  through  a  tamis  and  use  as  required. 

PURfiE  OF  PEAS— Shelled  green  peas  with  a 
bunch  each  of  mint  and  parsley  and  a  few 
spring  onions  boiled  tender,  drained,  pounded, 
taken  up  into  a  sautoir,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
a  little  thick  white  sauce,  then  rub  through  the 
tamis  for  use. 

PURfiE  OF  CHESTNUTS— Slit  large  chest- 
nuts and  steam  them  for  twenty  minutes,  then 
remove  the  husks  and  brown  skin,  put  the 
cleaned  nuts  in  a  sautoir  and  moisten  with  a 
little  consomm^  and  simmer  till  soft  and  the 
consomm^  reduced  to  glaze,  then  pound  them; 
season  with  salt,  nutmeg  and  sugar,  add  a  lit- 
tle cream  sauce,  then  rub  through  the  tamis 
for  use. 

PURfiE  OF  SPINACH— Wash  the  spinach  free 
from  sand,  blanch  it,  then  take  up  and  let  it 
drain  well,  now  chop  it  very  fine,  then  pound 
it;  place  in  a  sautoir,  season  with  salt,  sugar 
and  nutmeg,  add  a  little  white  sauce,  reduce 
rapidly  to  preserve  its  color,  add  a  little  butter 
and  a  piece  of  glaze,  then  rub  through  the 
tamis  for  use. 

PURfiE  OF  ASPARAGUS— Take  the  green  parts 
of  asparagus,  wash  free  from  sand,  place  in  a 
sautoir  with  some  spring  onions  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley,  boil  in  salted  water  till  asparagus  is 
tender,  then  drain  all,  return  to  another  sautoir, 
season  with  salt,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  add  a  little 
butter  and  some  white  sauce,  also  some  white 
grated  breadcrumbs,  reduce  rapidly,  finish  with 
a  little  green  coloring  paste  and  a  small  piece 
of  glaze,  then  rub  through  the  tamis  for  use. 

PURfiE  OF  TOMATOES— Into  a  sautoir  put 
some  butter,  lean  raw  ham,  minced  shallots,  a 
few  whole  peppers,  mace  and  cloves,  two  or 
three  bay  leaves  and  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme, 
fry  together  to  a  golden  color,  then  add  either 
fresh  or  canned  tomatoes  with  a  little  V^lout^ 
sauce,  reduce  rapidly  till  thick,  add  a  seasoning 
of  salt  and  sugar,  with  a  piece  of  glaze  and  a 
pat  of  butter,  then  rub  through  the  tamis  for  use. 

PURfiE  OF  ONIONS— Sliced  onions  blanched 
for  five  minutes  then  drained,  placed  in  a  saatoi^ 


146 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


with  butter,  seasoned  with  salt,  sugar  and  nut- 
meg, moistened  with  a  very  little  white  stock, 
simmered  till  soft  and  the  broth  reduced  to 
glaze,  then  add  some  thick  white  sauce,  reduce 
rapidly,  then  rub  through  the  tamis  for  use. 

PURfiE  OF  SEAKALE— Seakale  cut  small  and 
blanched,  then  drained,  placed  in  a  sautoirwith 
butter  and  a  little  white  stock,  season  with  salt, 
sugar  and  nutmeg.  Simmer  till  soft,  then  add 
some  thick  white  sauce,  reduce  rapidly  till 
thick,  then  rub  through  the  tamis  for  use. 

PUR£E  of  mushrooms— Canned  button 
mushrooms  drained,  chopped  fine,  placed  in  a 
sautoir  with  butter  and  allowed  to  fry  to  a  light 
straw  color,  then  is  added  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
and  a  good  cream  .sauce  made  with  cream  and 
the  liquor  from  the  canned  mushrooms;  sea- 
soned with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  reduce 
rapidly,  then  rub  through  the  tamis  for  use. 

PUR£E  of  lima  beans— Fresh  green  lima 
beans  boiled  for  a  few  minutes  with  some 
spring  onions  and  a  bunch  of  parsley,  also  a  few 
sprigs  of  chives,  drained,  placed  in  a  sautoir 
with  butter  and  a  small  bunch  of  savory,  sea- 
soned with  salt,  sugar  and  a  little  white  sauce, 
simmered  till  very  tender,  then  add  a  piece  of 
glaze  and  a  little  green  coloring  paste,  rub 
through  the  tamis  for  use. 

QUAIL — Pluck  and  singe  the  quail,  split  down 
the  back,  remove  the  breast  bone,  season  with 
salt,  brush  with  butter,  broil  done  to  a  golden 
brown;  spread  the  trail  on  buttered  toast,  pop 
it  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes  during  the  broil- 
ing, place  the  bird  on  the  toast,  brush  over  with 
butter,  garnish  with  a  little  cress  and  send  to 
table. 

ROAST  QUAIL  —  Pluck  and  singe  the  bird, 
draw  it,  return  the  liver,  truss;  run  half  a 
dozen  on  a  long  steel  skewer;  place  acrcss  a 
baking  pan,  letting  the  ends  of  the  skewer  rest 
on  the  edge  of  the  pan;  sprinkle  with  salt, 
dredge  with  melted  butter,  roast;  serve  on  toast 
garnished  with  a  little  cress.  Sauce  Perigueux, 
or  a  Financiere  garnish  mav  be  served  with  it, 
but  is  far  from  being  essential. 

QU AHAUG — or  quahog.  One  of  the  clam  species, 
the  tender  part  only  should  be  used;  in  every 
way  of  cooking  applicable  to  oysters  and  clams* 

QUINCE  HONEY— Five  large  quinces  grated, 
one  pint  of  water,  five  pounds  of  granulated 
sugar,  boil  the  sugar  and  water,  add  the  grated 
quinces,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  pour  into  glasses, 
allow  to  cool  before  covering. 

QUINCE  JELLY— Wipe,  but  do  not  peel  the 
fruit;  slice  it,  and  remove  all  seeds.  Put  them 
in  a  porcelain  lined  kettle  and  barely  cover 
with  cold  water,  put  on  the  lid,  and  boil  slowly 
till  very  tender,  then  pour  all  into  a  flannel  jelly 
bag  and  let  drain  without  squeezing.  To  each 
Dint  of  juice  allow  one  pound  of  sugar,  put  the 


juice  into  the  kettle,  bring  to  the  boil,  add  the 
sugar,  stir  till  it  is  dissolved,  then  boil  rapidly, 
(skimming  the  while)  till  it  jellies  (about  twenty 
five  minutes),  then  roll  the  jelly  glasses  in  boil- 
ing water,  and  pour  in  the  boiling  jelly.  Stand 
aside  for  twenty-four  hours  until  set  firm,  then 
screw  on  the  lids.     Keep  in  a  cool  dark  place. 

QUINCE  MARMALADE— Peel,  core  and  slice 
the  fruit,  boil  with  just  enough  water  to  cover 
them,  stirring  and  mashing  them  till  soft;  when 
reduced  to  a  paste,  allow  eleven  ounces  of 
granulated  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit,  boil 
twelve  minutes,  stirring  constantly;  remove 
from  fire,  allow  to  cool,  then  fill  into  jars  for  use. 

STEWED  RABBIT,  GERMAN  STYLE— Young 
rabbits  cut  in  six  pieces,  the  two  legs,  breasts 
and  shoulders,  and  the  back  cut  in  halves; 
wash  well,  drain,  then  steep  them  for  a  few 
hours  in  vinegar  containing  thyme,  carrots  and 
onions  sliced;  when  ready,  take  the  nieces,  roll 
them  in  flour  and  fry  lightly  in  butter,  put 
them  in  a  sautoir  when  fried;  now  fry  some 
pieces  of  salt  pork  in  the  remaining  butter,  add 
them  to  the  rabbit,  with  some  flour,  shake  to- 
gether, moisten  with  stock,  simmer  and  skim; 
then  add  some  button  onions,  a  little  thyme 
and  enough  of  the  vinegar  they  were  steeped  in 
to  give  a  sharp  flavor,  simmer  till  tender  and 
serve. 

FRICASSEE  OF  RABBIT— Legs,  backs  and 
shoulders  of  young  rabbits,  washed  and  wiped 
dry,  then  lightly  fry  with  butter  till  the  flesh 
is  firm;  take  up  into  a  sautoir,  add  some 
flour,  moisten  with  white  stock,  simmer  and 
skim;  when  about  half  done,  add  some  button 
onions  and  mushrooms,  also  a  glass  of  white 
wine;  when  about  finished,  thicken  the  sauce 
with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream,  season 
with  nutmeg,  salt,  red  pepper  and  the  juice  of 
a  lemon. 

POTTED  RABBIT— Legs,  shoulders  and  backs 
of  young  rabbits,  remove  the  bones  from  each 
joint,  then  place  the  pieces  in  individual  jars 
(like  bean  jars)  with  diced  bacon  and  mush- 
rooms. Take  the  bones  and  head,  pound  them, 
boil  them  with  carrot,  celery,  onions  and  a  lit- 
tle thyme,  thicken  it  slightly,  strain,  and  cover 
the  meat  in  the  jars  with  it,  put  on  the  lids, 
and  bake  slowly  till  tender;  serve  in  the  jars. 

BRAISED  RABBIT  WITH  TOMATO  SAUCE 
— Legs  and  backs  of  young  rabbits,  lard  them 
with  seasoned  strips  of  bacon,  place  in  a  bras- 
iere  with  bacon,  onions,  carrots  and  a  bunch  of 
thyme,  moisten  with  white  stock  and  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  braise  till  tender  and  then  remove 
to  another  sautoir;  strain  the  braise,  boil  up, 
skim,  then  add  it  to  a  thick  tomato  sauce; 
serve  it  over  the  rabbit,  garnished  with  fancy 
crofitons. 

BROILED  SADDLE  OF  RABBIT— Take  the 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


147 


whole  of  the  back  of  the  rabbit,  soak  it  in  warm 
salted  water  for  an  hour,  then  take  it  up  and 
wipe  dry,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in 
melted  butter,  dredge  with  flour,  place  between 
a  wire  hinged  broiler  and  broil  it  well  done 
over  a  clear  fire,  basting  with  butter  during 
cooking;  serve  on  tcast  with  mSitre  d'hotel 
butter  in  which  has  been  incorporated  a  little 
red  currant  jelly. 
SAUTfe  OF  RABBIT— Take  the  legs  and  sad- 
dles of  the  rabbits,  soak  in  warm  salted  water 
for  an  hour,  then  drain  and  wipe  each  piece 
dry,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  flour, 
fry  a  golden  color  with  butter,  make  the  sauce 
in  the  same  pan,  boil  up  and  skim,  put  back 
the  rabbit,  add  some  sliced  mushrooms,  sim- 
mer till  tender,  finish  with  the  addition  of  a 
little  sherry  wine. 
SMOTHERED  RABBIT  WITH  ONIONS— 
Take  the  legs  and  saddles,  blanch  and  drain 
them,  then  arrange  them  in  a  sautoir,  cover 
with  a  light  brown  sauce  and  let  simmer  for 
half  an  hour;  meanwhile  fry  lightly  plenty  of 
onions  (the  small  button  ones),  add  them  to  the 
rabbit,  simmer  till  tender;  serve  garnished  with 
the  onions  and  a  fancy  croiiton. 
RABBIT  PIE— Take  the  legs  and  saddles,  cut 
-  into  inch  pieces,  make  them  into  a  saut^;  take 
the  hearts,  livers  and  brains,  and  with  the  ad- 
dition of  a  little  grated  bacon,  breadcrumbs, 
chopped  parsley  and  a  flavoring  of  thyme  make 
forcemeat  balls;  lay  the  rabbit  in  the  pie  dish, 
add  the  forcemeat  balls  and  some  diced  bacon, 
pour  over  the  sauce,  cover  with  a  good  short 
crust  and  bake  for  one  hour.  May  also  be  done 
in  individual  pie  dishes  for  restaurant  and  club 
service,  where  it  is  a  good  seller. 
RABBIT  CUTLETS,  TOMATO  SAUCE— Take 
th%j  legs,  roll  them  first  in  a  mixture  of  salt, 
pepper  and  poultry  seasoning,  then  in  flour, 
dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  grated  breadcrumbs, 
place  in  a  buttered  baking  pan,  sprinkle  with 
melted  butter,  bake  slowly  for  half  an  hour; 
serve  with  tomato  sauce. 
EPIGRAMME  OF  RABBIT— Take  the  legs  and 
lard  them  with  seasoned  strips  of  bacon,  fry 
one  half  of  them  slowly  till  tender,  and  braise 
the  other  half;  when  serving,  place  a  line  of 
mashed  potatoes  down  the  centre  of  the  dish; 
on  one  side  place  a  braised  leg  dipped  in  a 
brown  Italian  sauce,  on  the  other  side  place 
the  fried  leg  dipped  in  a  white  Italian  sauce, 
garnish  the  ends  with  fancy  shaped  quenelles 
made  of  the  hearts,  liver  and  brains. 
DEVILLED  RABBIT— Take  the  legs  and  sad- 
dles, boil  them  for  fifteen  minutes,  let  cool, 
then  score  them  slantwise  in  three  or  four 
places  to  the  bone;  make  a  mixture  of  melted 
butter,  cayenne,  Worcestershire  sauce,  mus- 
tard and  tarragon  vinegar,  thoroughly  rub  into 


the  cuts  with  the  mixture,  then  slowly  broil 
them  of  a  light  color;  serve  garnished  with 
croiitons  and  a  little  of  the  devil  mixture  made 
hot  and  poured  over,  y 

BLANQUETTE  OF  RABBIT— Legs  and  sad- 
dles of  rabbits  blanched,  then  lightly  fried  with 
butter,  taken  up  into  a  sautoir,  covered  with 
Vfeloutfe  sauce,  simmered  till  tender;  served 
garnished  with  button  mushrooms  that  have 
been  saut^ed  with  butter. 

FRIED  RABBIT  CUTLETS— Legs  of  young 
rabbits,  bones  removed  and  their  place  filled 
with  forcemeat,  steam  them  for  ten  minutes, 
then  take  up  and  spread  a  little  of  the  force- 
meat on  the  outside,  then  bread  them;  arrange 
in  a  buttered  pan,  sprinkle  with  melted  butter, 
brown  off  in  the  oven;  serve  with  a  sauce  made 
from  the  inferior  parts. 

STEWED  RABBIT  WITH  VEGETABLES— 
Prepare  the  blanquette  of  rabbit  of  a  preced- 
ing recipe;  serve  garnished  with  balls  of  carrot 
and  turnip,  green  peas  and  small  onions. 

BROILED  RABBIT — Young  rabbits,  the  legs 
and  saddle  cut  in  one  piece,  like  frogs  are  cut, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  broiled  well 
done;  served  with  bacon  and  mditre  d'h6tel 
sauce. 

RAGOUT  OF  RABBIT— Legs,  saddles  and 
shoulders  of  rabbits,  cut  into  even  sized  pieces, 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  and  saut^ed  with 
butter  to  a  golden  color,  then  add  some  chopped 
truffle,  mushrooms,  parsley  and  shallot,  sim- 
mer all  in  the  butter  for  ten  minutes,  then 
pour  off  the  waste,  moisten  with  some  good 
espagnole,  boil  up  and  skim,  then  add  a  piece 
of  chicken  glace,  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  grav- 
ing of  nutmeg,  let  simmer  till  nearly  done, 
then  add  some  forcemeat  balls  prepared  from 
the  inferior  parts;  serve  garnished  with  the 
quenelles  and  fancy  crofltons. 

RABBIT  FILLETS  GARNISHED,  SAUCE 
PERIGUEUX— Legs  and  saddles  of  young 
rabbits  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg, 
saut^ed  with  butter  to  a  golden  color,  taken  up 
and  drained,  placed  into  a  rich  P^rigu^ux 
sauce,  simmered  in  it  till  done;  served  with  the 
sauce  poured  over  and  garnished  with  small 
quenelles  of  rabbits  made  from  the  inferior 
parts,  alternately  with  button  mushroom  sau- 
t^es. 

SALPICON  OF  RABBIT— Take  the  whole  rab- 
bit and  roast  it  of  a  light  color,  well  basting  it 
to  keep  it  moist;  take  up  and  allow  to  cool, 
then  cut  in  small  dice,  the  meat  only,  add  also 
a  few  mushrooms,  and  truffles,  a  little  tongue 
and  sweetbread  all  cut  in  small  dice,  moisten 
the  whole  with  a  rich  VMout^  sauce;  serve  in 
fancy  croustade  cases. 

MINCED  RABBIT  ON  TOAST— Cold  cooked 
rabbit,    the  meat  cut  into    yery  small  dice, 


148 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


moistened  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce;  served 
on  toast  with  or  without  a  trimmed  poached 
egg. 

CURRIED  RABBIT  WITH  RICE— Legs,  sad- 
dles and  shoulders  of  rabbits  lightly  fried  with 
minced  onions  in  butter,  then  taken  up  into  a 
sautoir,  sprinkled  with  curry  powder  and  flour, 
moistened  with  white  stock,  simmered  till 
done;  served  with  rice. 

RASPBERRIES— A  delicions  fruit  used  chiefly 
as  a  table  fruit,  being  picked  over,  then  served 
with  cream.  Made  into  puddings,  charlottes, 
ices,  creams,  meringues,  tarts,  jellies,  trifles, 
etc.,  by  the  pastry  cooks;  into  syrup  for  flavor- 
ing; also  used  as  a  drink  in  summer  for  cooling 
the  blood  known  as  RASPBERRY  VINEGAR; 
made  by  taking  equal  measurement  of  rasp- 
berries and  vinegar,  and  steeping  them  for  a 
week,  then  straining  off  the  liquor,  allowing  a 
pound  of  granulated  sugar  to  each  pint  of  juice; 
it  is  boiled,  skimmed  and  bottled  for  use. 

RAVIOLES — Are  essentially  poached  rissoles  or 
rissolettes;  they  are  made  up  from  any  kind  of 
croquette  mixture,  rolled  up  the  sizeand  shape 
of  an  egg,  then  slightly  flattened,  and  laid  on  a 
small  square  piece  of  NOODLE  or  SHORT 
paste,  the  four  ends  brought  over  the  top  to  a 
centre  and  slightly  pressed  together;  they  are 
then  poached  in  white  stock  for  six  or  seven 
minutes,  drained,  placed  on  the  serving  dish; 
an  appropriate  sauce  to  the  croquette  mixture 
is  poured  over  tbem,  then  sprinkled  with  grated 
Parmesan  cheese. 

RAVIGOTE — Name  given  to  a  sauce,  made  with 
plenty  of  melted  butter,  flour  to  form  a  roux, 
moistened  with  good  white  stock,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper  and  nutmeg,  and  containing  plenty 
of  chopped  chives,  chervil,  tarragon,  burnet 
and  parsley.  .  .  Also  a  cold  sauce,  which  is 
mayonnaise  containing  finely  minced  chives, 
shallot,  tarragon,  parsley  and  chervil. 

REDSNAPPER,  BOILED— Clean  and  scale  the 
fish,  place  in  the  fish  kettle,  cover  it  with  hot 
water,  adding  salt  and  a  little  vinegar,  sim- 
mer till  done  (from  half  to  one  hour  according 
to  size),  then  raise  and  drain;  serve  in  portions 
garnished  with  Hollandaise  potatoes  and  either 
caper,  matelote,  Allemande,  Admiral,  diplo- 
mate  or  Venitienne  sauces. 

REDSNAPPER,  BAKED— Clean  and  scale  the 
fish,  split  it  down  the  back  and  lift  off  the  two 
sides  free  from  bones;  lay  these  skin  side  down 
in  a  buttered  pan,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
place  in  oven  till  set,  then  brush  liberally  with 
melted  butter;  bake  done  and  brown,  basting 
well  with  butter  during  the  cooking;  serve  in 
portions  with  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  a  rich 
tomato  sauce  made  with  court-bouillon. 

REDSNAPPER,  SAUTfi— Prepare  the  fillets  as 
in  the  preceding  recipe,  then  cut  them  in  por- 


tion pieces,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in 
flour,  saut^  them  a  delicate  brown  color  with 
plenty  of  melted  butter;  when  done,  take  up 
and  drain,  sprinkle  the  surface  with  finely 
minced  parsley;  serve  with  Parisienne potatoes 
and  either  lobster,  Genoise,  Aurora,  Cardinal, 
Chambord,  or  Normandfe  sauces. 

REDSNAPPER,  BROILED— Clean  and  scale 
the  fish,  split  down  the  back  and  remove  the 
sides  free  from  bones,  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  brush  with  melted  butter,  pass  it 
through  flour,  place  between  the  wire  hinged 
broiler,  broil  till  done,  well  basting  with  butter 
during  cooking;  serve  garnished  with  chip  or 
Julienne  potatoes,  and  either  Mditre  D'Hotel, 
Genoise,  Bearnaise,  Eschalote,  or  Nantaise 
sauces. 

REDSNAPPER,  STUFFED— Clean,  trim  and 
scale  the  fish;  cut  from  the  belly  part  deep 
enough  at  sides  of  bone  so  as  to  withdraw  it 
without  cutting  the  skin  of  the  back;  stuff  with 
a  fish  forcemeat,  then  sew  the  opening,  score 
the  sides,  bake  with  slices  of  salt  pork;  serve 
in  portions  garnished  with  Duchesse  potatoes 
and  tomato  sauce. 

RHUBARB  COMPOTE— Young  rhubarb  cut  in 
finger  lengths,  placed  in  enameled  pan  covered 
with  cold  water,  slowly  brought  to  the  scalding 
(not  boiling)  point,  then  drain.  Measure  the 
scalded  water,  and  add  to  it  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  each  pint,  boil  together  till  of  a  thin  syrupy 
nature,  then  pour  over  the  rhubarb. 

RHUBARB  PIE— Line  the  sides  of  pie  dish  with 
short  paste,  cut  the  rhubarb  into  half  inch 
thick  pieces,  sprinkle  well  with  sugar,  a  little 
grated  nutmeg  and  lemon  rind,  just  a  little 
water,  cover  with  short  paste,  egg  wash  the 
top,  bake  and  serve. 

RHUBARB  WITH  CUSTARD— Cut  the  rhu- 
barb into  finger  lengths,  place  it  in  an  enam- 
eled pan,  adding  sugar  and  a  few  strips  of 
candied  lemon  peel,  a  little  water,  place  the  pan 
in  a  slow  oven  and  let  simmer  till  done  without 
breaking  the  fruit;  serve  with  a  spoonful  to 
each  portion  of  thin  boiled  custard,  flavored 
with  vanilla. 

RHUBARB  ]  AM— Wash  the  young  rhubarb  and 
cut  into  pieces  about  an  inch  long,  do  not  peel 
it,  weigh,  and  to  each  pound  allow  three-quart- 
ers of  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar,  boil  in  a 
porcelain  lined  kettle,  bringing  slowly  to  the 
boil,  then  boil  and  stir  continually  for  forty-five 
minutes,  fill  into  Mason  jars,  screwing  the  lids 
on  tight. 

RHUBARB  JELLY— Wash  the  young  rhubarb 
and  cut  it  into  inch  lengths,  put  the  cut  fruit 
into  a  stone  crock,  put  on  the  lid,   stand  it  in  j 

the  bain  marie,  and  heat  slowly  till  the  fruit  is 
soft;  now  put  a  small  quantity  at  a  time  into 
your  jelly  bag,  and  squeeze  out  all  the  juice. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Z49 


Measure  the  juice,  and  to  each  pint  allow  one 
pound  of  granulated  sugar.  Turn  the  juice  in- 
to a  porcelain  lined  kettle,  and  stand  over  a 
brisk  fire.  Put  the  sugar  into  earthern  dishes 
and  stand  in  the  oven  to  heat.  Boil  the  juice 
rapidly  and  continuously  for  twenty  minutes, 
then  turn  in  the  sugar  quickly,  stirring  all  the 
while  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Dip  jelly 
tumblers  into  hot  water,  watch  the  liquid  care- 
fully, and  as  soon  as  it  comes  to  the  boil,  take 
it  from  the  fire  and  fill  the  glasses. 

RHUBARB  FRITTERS— Take  pieces  of  the 
rhubarb  from  the  compote  of  a  preceding 
recipe,  dip  in  frying  batter,  fry  in  deep,  hot 
lard,  drain,  dust  powdered  sugar  over;  serve 
with  rum  sauce. 

RHUBARB  MERINGUE— Wash  young  rhu- 
barb, then  cut  it  into  inch  lengths;  fill  a  pie 
dish  with  the  rhubarb,  sugared  alternately  with 
slices  of  stale  sponge  cake;  bake  in  a  moderate 
oven  about  half  an  hour,  then  cover  with  a 
meringue  sprinkled  with  colored  sugar;  return 
to  oven  and  bake  till  of  a  light  fawn  color. 

RICE — To  boil  it  properly  so  as  to  have  it  in 
grains  when  cooked  instead  of  pasty:  Take  a 
large  saucepan  containing  plenty  of  boiling 
water  with  a  little  salt,  then  sprinkle  in  the 
rice,  let  it  boil  up,  then  shift  it  to  a  cooler  part 


turn  it  out  into  a  buttered  pan,  smooth  it  well, 
place  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper  over  it,  on  that 
a  board  with  a  weight;  when  thoroughly  cold, 
stamp  out  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  double  bread, 
then  fry  them,  drain,  scoop  out  the  centres  and 
use  the  shell  for  the  reception  of  salpi9ons, 
mac^doines  of  fruit  or  vegetables,  etc. 

RICHILIEU — Name  of  a  garnish  (see  garnishes). 

RISSOLES — Another  form  of  savory  croquette; 
but  instead  of  being  breaded  and  fried,  the 
croquette  mixture  is  divided  into  even  sized 
pieces,  and  laid  on  a  sheet  of  pie  paste,  cov- 
ered with  another  sheet(thin),then  stamped  out 
with  a  fluted  biscuit  cutter,  then  fried  like  cro- 
quettes in  deep  hot  lard. 

RISSOLETTES— Same  as  rissoles,  but  made 
much  smaller  and  used  for  garnishing. 

ROE — The  eggs  of  fish,  those  chiefly  used  being 
taken  from  the  shad,  codfish,  carp  and  mullet. 
Recipes  will  be  found  under  their  respective 
headings. 

ROLY  POLY — Name  applied  to  puddings  made 
from  a  sweet  biscuit  dough,  rolled  out  thin, 
then  spread  with  chopped  fruit,  currants,  sul- 
tanas, etc.,  then  rolled  up,  tied  in  a  cloth, 
plunged  into  boiling  water,  and  boiled;  or  else 
placed  in  a  cake  or  bread  tin  and  steamed  till 
done;  served  in  slices  with  sauce  appropriate. 


of  the  range  where  it  will  just  simmer,   do  not    rqmAN   PUNCH— To  lemon   water   ice  when 


stir  it,  but  let  it  swell  itself  tender,  then  turn  it 
into  a  colander,  place  the  colander  in  the 
saucepan,  take  it  to  the  sink  and  thoroughly 
wash  it  clear  with  running  cold  water,  then 
allow  to  drain  dry,  then  put  the  drained  rice 
into  a  receptacle  of  the  bain  marie,  put  on  the 
cover,  and  let  the  boiling  water  surrounding  it 
reheat  the  rice.  .  .  Rice  cooked  as  above  is 
good  to  serve  with  curries,  compotes,  as  a 
breakfast  cereal  with  cream  and  sugar,  etc.  .  . 
Also  mixed  with  a  little  butter,  plenty  of 
tomato  sauce  and  Parmesan  cheese  it  forms 
Rissoto  .  .  .  added  to  consommes  it  does  not 
cloud  the  soup  .  .  .  mixed  with  wheat  flour, 
baking  powder,  sugar  and  milk  for  making  rice 
muffins. 

RICB  CROQUETTES— Well  washed  rice  boiled 
till  soft  in  milk  with  a  seasoning  of  sugar,  a 
stick  of  cinnamon,  and  the  peel  of  a  lernon; 
when  done  yemove  the  lemon  and  spice,  add  a 
piece  of  butter,  then  work  in  a  liaison  of  egg 
yolks;  turn  out  into  a  buttered  pan,  allow  to 
become  cold,  then  form  into  cakes  with  a  de- 
pressed centre,  bread  and  fry  them,  drain, 
sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar;  when  sending  to 
table  fill  the  depression  with  preserve,  and 
pour  a  vanilla  or  wine  sauce  around  the  base. 

CROUSTADES  OF  RICE— Well  washed  rice 
boiled  till  soft  in  white  stock;  when  done, 
season  with  salt,  butter  and  nutmeg,  then  whip 
it  creamy,  adding  some  Parmesan  cheese.  Now 


nearly  frozen  is  added  Jamaica  rum,  brandy, 
and  sherry  wine  in  equal  parts,  and  enough 
meringue  to  whiten  it,  then  finish  the  freezing; 
served  in  punch  glasses  with  the  dinner. 

ROQUEFORT— Name  of  a  French  cheese  (see 
cheese). 

ROULADE — Name  given  to  savory  rolls  of  steak. 
Take  thin  steaks,  spread  with  a  forcemeat,  roll 
up,  tie  the  ends  with  twine,  arrange  them  in  a 
sautoir  with  some  bacon  fat,  brown  them,  then 
add  a  little  flour,  moisten  with  stock,  then  let 
them  simmer  in  the  gravy  till  tender,  take  up, 
serve  with  the  twine  removed,  and  garnished 
with  vegetables,  mushrooms,  etc. 

ROUX — The  name  given  to  an  equal  mixture  of 
butter  and  flour,  used  to  thicken  sauces  and 
soups.  Take  the  sautoir,  place  in  the  butter; 
when  melted,  add  the  flour  and  stir  till  thor- 
oughly smooth  and  heated,  then  moisten  with 
the  stock,  milk,  etc.  .  .  If  for  a  brown  sauce  or 
soup, allow  the  roux  to  brown  before  moistening. 

ROYAL  CUSTARDS— Name  applied  to  a  com- 
bination of  eggs  and  a  liquid  either  plain  or  in 
conjunction  with  a  solid;  used  to  decorate 
soups,  and  also  with  garnishes;  also  for  garn- 
ishing galantines,  etc.  Yolks  and  whites  of 
eggs  separated,  stirred  to  amalgamate  (must 
not  be  beaten  light)  with  a  little  milk  or  stock, 
then  poured  into  a  buttered  basin  or  tin,  cov- 
ered with  a  sheet  of  oiled  paper,  and  placed  in 


I50 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


the  steamer  where  they  must  be  gradually 
steamed  till  set;  they  are  then  removed  and 
allowed  to  become  cold;  they  may  then  be  cut 
in  slices  and  afterwards  into  all  sorts  of  fancy 
shapes  for  the  purpose  required.  Into  the  eggs 
may  also  be  mixed  a  macedoine  of  vegetables, 
chopped  truffles,  chopped  mushrooms,  force- 
meat, lobster  coral,  green  peas,  chopped  chervil, 
parsley,  chives,  tarragon,  etc.;  and  when  re- 
quired for  garnishing  whole  pieces  they,  after 


decorated  with  capers;  garnished  with  aspara- 
gus points  dipped  in  French  dressing. 
BEAN  SALAD— Take  the  French  beans,  bought 
in  cans  and  called  "Haricots  Verts".  Wash 
and  drain  them,  then  moisten  with  French 
dressing  and  send  to  table  in  one  of  the  num- 
erous shaped  croustade  cases,  placed  on  a  leaf 
of  lettuce  ...  (2)  Fresh  green  lima  beans  boiled 
tender,  drained,  mixed  with  cream  dressing; 
served  garnished  with  cress. 


being  mixed  with  whatever  solid  is  used,  should    BEETROOT  AND  POTATO  SALAD— Cut  out 


be  filled  into  small  timbale  molds  so  that  they 
can  be  turned  out  and  used  whole. 

RYE — Name   of  a  cereal,  used  in  distilling  for 
whisky,  ground  into  flour  for  making  rye  bread, 
muffins,  batter  cakes,  mush,  etc. 
SALADS. 

ALLIGATOR  PEAR— It  is  either  eaten  raw  with 
salt  and  pepper;  or  sliced  and  dressed  with 
French  dressing;  served  on  a  bed  of  shredded 
endive. 

ANCHOVY  SALAD— (i)  Shredded  fillets  of 
salted  anchovies,  garnished  with  small  white 
pickled  onions,  capers,  and  sliced  hard  boiled 
eggs;  sprinkle  a  little  tarragon  vinegar  over  the 
anchovies  .  .  .(2)  Shredded  lettuce  and  shredded 


of  cold  boiled  beetroots  small  balls;  the  same 
size  balls  also  to  be  cut  out  of  raw  peeled  pota- 
toes; then  steamed  till  done;  when  cooled,  place 
the  potatoes  in  a  Ravigote  sauce,  the  beet  balls 
in  tarragon  vinegar;  dish  them  up  alternately. 
BEET  AND  EGG  SALAD— Large  beetroots 
boiled  and  cooled,  then  with  the  largest  sized 
column  cutter  stamp  out  cork  like  pieces;  these 
slice,  also  do  the  same  with  steamed  whites  and 
yolks  of  eggs.  Place  some  grated  horseradish 
down  the  centre  of  the  dish,  on  it  place  alter- 
nately a  small  white  pickled  onion  and  a  caper; 
surround  the  horseradish  with  the  yellow 
slices,  and  those  with  the  alternate  slices  of  beet 
and  white  egg;  serve  with  cream  dressing  aside. 


anchovies,  a  few  minced  shallots,  all  mixed  to-    CABBAGE  SALAD — Cut  some  bacon  into  dice. 


gether  dry;  then  moistened  with  equal  quanti- 
ties of  olive  oil  and  caper  vinegar  thoroughly 
beaten  together. 

ARTICHOKE  SALAD— (i)  Artichoke  bottoms 
and  medium  sized  onions  both  cooked  and 
cooled,  then  sliced  and  dished  alternately; 
garnished  with  small  balls  of  cooked  beetroot 
and  carrots;  served  sprinkled  with  either 
French  or  a  cream  dressing ...  (2)  Cooked  arti- 
choke bottoms,  skinned  raw  tomatoes;  slice 
both  and  arrange  alternately  on  the  serving 
dish,  sprinkle  with  finely  chopped  chervil,  then 
with  a  French  dressing  ...  (3)  Hearts  of  lettuce 
finely  shred;  artichoke  bottoms  cooked  and 
cooled,  then  shred;  mixed,  then  moistened  with 
French  dressing  and  served. 

ASPARAGUS  SALAD— (1)  Two-inch  lengths  of 
cooked  asparagus  with  the  head;  served  on  let- 
tuce leaves,  the  points  piped  with  cream  dress- 
ing or  mayonnaise  ...  (2)  Cooked  asparagus 
heads;  raw,  skinned,  sliced  tomatoes.  Place 
the  asparagus  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  garnish 
with  the  tomatoes;  serve  with  mayonnaise  .  .  . 
(3)  Flowerets  of  cooked  cauliflower  in  centre  of 
dish  masked  with  cream  dressing;  garnished 
with  asparagus  points  moistened  with  French 
dressing,  decorate  with  capers  ...  (4)  Flakes  of 
cookeo  salmon  dipped  in  a  thin  Ravigote  sauce, 


fry;  when  done,  add  a  cup  of  vinegar,  a  cup  of 
water,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  bring  all 
to  the  boil,  pour  over  very  finely  shred  cab- 
bage, set  away  to  get  cold,  then  serve  ...  (2) 
Finely  shred  white  cabbage,  seasoned  with 
salt,  pepper,  oil,  vinegar  and  a  little  sugar  .  .  . 
(3)  Take  a  firm  green  and  a  firm  red  cabbage, 
quarter  them,  soak  in  salted  water  for  an  hour, 
then  steam  them  till  tender,  take  out  and  cool; 
when  cold,  shred  them  very  finely,  arrange 
them  on  the  serving  dish  alternately,  two  rows 
of  each,  placing  between  each  centre  row  some 
salad  cream  dressing  containing  chopped  cher- 
vil and  shallots. 
CAULIFLOWER  SALAD— (i)  Cooked  cauli- 
flower in  flowerets  in  centre  of  dish,  masked 
with  mayonnaise,  garnished  with  a  macedoine 
of  cooked  vegetables  dressed  with  French 
dressing  ...  (2)  Flowerets  of  cooked  cauli- 
flower in  centre  of  dish  masked  with  a  sauce 
Remoulade;  garnished  with  fancy  cut  strips  of 
cooked  and  pickled  beetroot. 
CELERY  SALAD~(i)  Cut  the  white  celery  in 
two-inch  lengths  like  matches  or  macaroni; 
serve  dressed  with  mayonnaise  ...  (2)  White 
celery  cut  in  dice,  mixed  with  Livournaise 
sauce;  served  garnished  with  slices  of  staffed 
olives. 


placed  overlapping  each  other  down  centre  of  CHICORY  SALAD — Shred  chicory  (endive),  twc 

the  dish;  garnished  with  asparagus  points,  the  parts,   shred  celery,  one  part,  mixed,  dressed 

tips  of  which  should  be  piped  with  mayonnaise.  and  served  with  French  dressing. 

...  (5)  Canned  salmon  drained;  a  spoonful  in  CODFISH  SALAD— Salt  cod  well   soaked  and 

centre  of  dish  masked  with  a  mayonnaise  and  boiled  in  two  separate  waters.   cool«i,  -^ake* 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


taken  free  from  bones;  cold  boiled  potatoes 
sliced  and  mixed  with  the  cod;  seasoned  with 
cream  dressing,  the  salad  then  placed  down  the 
centre  of  dish;  garnish  the  sides  with  finely 
shred  lettuce  seasoned  with  French  dressing, 
the  top  of  the  salad  to  be  garnished  with 
shredded  and  filleted  salted  anchovies. 
CHICKEN  SALAD— (i)  Make  round  chicken 
croquettes  of  white  chicken,  tongue,  mush- 
rooms and  truflBes;  bread,  fry,  let  become  cold, 
cut  in  halves  and  set  around  a  bed  of  fine  shred 
lettuce  and  endive  ...  (2)  Equal  parts  of 
chicken  and  white  celery  cut  in  dice,  seasoned 


151 

(2)  Peeled  cucurobers 


tarragon  and  parsley 
thinly  sliced  and  steeped  in  salted  ice  water  for 
an  hour;  then  taken  up  into  a  salad  basket  and 
swung  dry;  then  anoint  them  with  a  spray  of 
tarragon  vinegar,  place  in  centre  of  dish,  and 
garnish  them  with  a  few  spring  onions  sliced 
and  moistened  with  cream  salad  dressing.  .  .  (3) 
Peeled  cucumbers  thinly  sliced,  steeped  in 
salted  ice  water  for  an  hour,  taken  up  into  a 
salad  basket  and  swung  dry;  then  anoint 
them  with  salt,  pepper  and  a  spray  of  caper 
vinegar;  dish  them  up  alternately  with  slices  01 
hard  boiled  eggs  and  pickled  beetroot. 


with  salt,  pepper,  oil  and  vinegar,  dressed  with   DANDELION   SALAD — Fresh  gathered  young 


sliced  eggs  and  mayonnaise  ...  (3)  Take  two 
parts  of  mayonnaise  and  one  part  of  cold  limpid 
aspic  jelly  and  beat  them  together;  decorate 
and  line  individual  patty  pans  with  the  beaten 
mixture,  allow  them  to  set,  then  fill  up  with 
slices  of  chicken  dressed  with  Remoulade 
sauce,  a  few  capers  and  slices  of  stoned  olives, 
cover  with  more  of  the  beaten  mixture,  let  set 
till  firm,  turn  out  on  to  a  bed  of  shredded  let- 
tuce, garnish  with  shredded  anchovies  and 
shredded  gherkins. 
CHICKEN,  MAYONNAISE  OF  —  Cold  roast 
chickens,  cut  into  joints,  marinaded  in  a  mix- 
ture of  olive  oil,  tarragon  vinegar,  salt  and 
pepper;  taken  up,  drained,  skinned,  dipped  in 
a  mayonnaise;  when  well  coated,  lain  on  a  bed 
of  shredded  lettuce,  garnish  with  quartered 
eggs,  balls  of  pickled  beetroot  and  stoned, 
stuffed  olives.  .  .  (2)  Boned  and  roasted  chicken, 
pressed,  sliced,  coated  with  mayonnaise;  served 
garnished  with  green  peas  and  asparagus 
points  sprinkled  with  French  dressing,  and 
cubes  of  savory  chicken  aspic. 
CRAB  SALAD— Fresh  crab  meat,  to  which  is 
added  one-fourth  of  its  bulk  in  minced  cold 
boiled  cabbage;  season  with  dry  mustard,  a 
dash  of  Worcestershire  sauce  and  cream  salad 
dressing.  Fill  the  crab  shells  with  the  salad, 
place  the  shell  on  a  curved  lettuce  leaf;  decor- 
ate the  salad  in  the  shell  with  two  rows  of  egg, 
chopped  whites  and  yolks  alternately.  .  .  (2) 
Fresh  crab  meat  cut  in  small  dice,  dressed  with 
tarragon  vinegar,  salt,  olive  oil  and  cayenne 
pepper;  served  within  a  border  of  shredded 
lettuce;  garnish  with  slices  of  stuffed  olives  and 
hard  boiled  eggs.  .  .  (3)  Make  from  fresh  crab 
meat,  some  forcemeat  balls  the  size  of  walnuts; 
when  poached  and  cooled,  coat  them  with  a 
Remoulade  sauce;  serve  them  within  a  border 
of  cold  slaw,  garnish  with  quartered  hard  boiled 
eggs  and  fancy  strips  of  pickled  beetroot. 
CUCUMBER  SALAD— Cucumbers  peeled,  sliced 
thin,  steeped  in  salted  ice  water  for  two  or 
three  hours,  taken  up  into  a  salad  basket  and 
swung  dry;  then  place  in  a  bowl  and  anoint 
them  with  French  dressing  containing  chopped 


dandelion  leaves  (gathered  before  the  sun 
shines  on  them  in  the  morning  too  strongly), 
wiped  clean  WITHOUT  BEING  WASHED, 
seasoned  with  French  dressing;  served  gar- 
nished with  fancy  slices  of  pickled  beetroot. 

CRESS  SALAD — Arrange  well  washed,  picked 
over  and  drained  watercress  on  the  serving 
dish,  garnish  with  sliced  eggs  and  filleted 
anchovies. 

EGG  SALAD  — Hard  boiled  eggs,  the  yolks 
rubbed  through  a  sieve,  mixed  with  their  equal 
weight  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese,  seasoned 
with  chopped  chervil,  salt,  pepper  and  enough 
melted  butter  to  moisten;  fill  the  whites  with 
the  mixture,  and  lay  them  on  a  bed  of  shredded 
lettuce;  garnish  with  peeled  and  sliced  toma- 
toes, piped  with  Remoulade  sauce. 

EEL  SALAD — Raw  eels  skinned  and  marinaded, 
then  boiled  and  the  bone  removed;  when  cold, 
masked  with  mayonnaise,  arranged  in  centre 
of  dish  garnished  with  sliced  eggs  and  tufts  of 
parsley. 

EGG  PLANT  SALAD— Cold  well  boiled  egg 
plant,  cut  in  small  dice  and  well  seasoned  with 
lemon  juice  and  olive  oil;  served  on  a  curled 
leaf  of  lettuce. 

ENDIVE  SALAD— Shred  the  leaves  and  cores  of 
well  washed  endive,  and  serve  it  with  French 
dressing  made  with  tarragon  vinegar,  contain- 
ing a  suspicion  of  garlic. 

FRENCH  SALAD— Cold  roast  meat  (veal  for 
preference),  cut  in  small  dice,  mixed  with 
shredded  lettuce  and  endive,  seasoned  with 
French  dressing,  garnished  with  chopped 
whites  of  hard  boiled  egg. 

GARDENER'S  SALAD— Fine  strips  of  vege- 
tables of  various  colors  cooked  and  cooled,  with 
green  peas  and  cut  stringless  beans,  all  mixed 
together  and  dressed  with  salt,  pepper,  olive 
oil  and  vinegar,  or  with  a  thin  mayonnaise. 

GERMAN  SALAD— Pickled  red  cabbage, 
blanched  sauerkraut,  small  pickled  onions, 
grated  horseradish,  chopped  shallots,  gherkins, 
dill  pickles  and  capers  with  sliced  cold  frank- 
furters,  all    mixed    together,    seasoned    with 


TSa 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Rhine  wine,  salad  oil,  pepper  and  tarragon 
vinegar. 

GERMAN  POTATO  SALAD— Sliced  cold  boiled 
potatoes,  minced  parsley,  fried  diced  bacon 
(with  its  fat  thrown  over  the  potatoes),  pepper, 
salt,  the  whole  well  mixed  with  cream  salad 
dressing. 

GAME  SALAD — Any  kind  of  cold  roast  game 
skinned  and  cut  into  dice,  mixed  with  shredded 
lettuce,  shredded  cooked  carrots  and  a  few  raw 
minced  shallots,  season  the  whole  with  Tartare 
sauce;  serve  garnished  with  slices  of  pickled 
beetrcot,  chopped  eggs  and  small  balls  of  but- 
ter and  pounded  watercress.  .  .  (2)  Cold  roast 
game  skinned  and  sliced,  moistened  with  French 
dressing  and  allowed  to  marinade  for  three 
hours,  arrange  then  on  the  serving  platter, 
garnished  with  shredded  lettuce,  the  whole 
then  sprinkled  over  with  chopped  whites  of  egg 
and  the  yolks  that  have  been  rubbed  through  a 
sieve. 

HERRING  SALAD — Shredded  boneless  salted 
herrings  and  sardelles,  mixed  with  thin  sliced 
cold  boiled  potatoes,  sliced  dill  pickles  and 
gherkins,  capers,  chopped  chives  and  shredded 
lettuce;  placed  on  the  serving  platter  and 
masked  with  a  thin  mayonnaise;  garnish  with 
filleted  anchovies  and  slices  or  strips  of  pickled 
bestroot.  .  .  {2)  Blanched  smoked  herring, 
skinned,  split,  boned,  cut  up  small,  mixed  with 
chopped  eggs,  minced  onion,  thin  sliced  cold 
boiled  potatoes  and  chopped  parsley,  seasoned 
with  French  dressing,  garnished  with  pickled 
beetrcot  and  capers. 

ITALIAN  SALAD— Diced  fowl  mixed  in  cream 
salad  dressing;  served  within  a  border  of  picked 
watercress  and  hearts  of  lettuce;  garnish  with 
slices  of  eggs,  yolks  removed,  its  place  filled 
with  a  slice  of  beetroot. 

ITALIAN  SALAD — Cooked  green  peas  two- 
fifths,  small  diced  cooked  carrot  one-fifth, 
diced  cooked  white  turnip  one  fifth,  small  cut 
cooked  stringless  beans  one-fifth,  all  mixed  to- 
gether. Then  into  a  French  dressing  mix  some 
chopped  chervil,  tarragon  and  chives;  moisten 
the  vegetables  with  this  mixture,  and  serve 
garnished  with  slices  of  cold  boiled  potatoes 
and  pickled  beetroot. 

KALE  SALAD— The  small  inside  leaves  of  kale 
four-fifths,  picked  and  washed  watercress  one- 
fifth,  mixed  and  served  with  French  dressing. 

LETTUCE  SALAD— Broad  shred  lettuce  leaves, 
sprinkled  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  sprayed  with 
mixed  olive  oil  and  tarragon  vinegar. .  .  (2)  Well 
washed  and  drained  lettuce  leaves  finely  shred 
and  served  with  French  dressing.  .  .  (3)  Broad 
shred  lettuce  leaves  and  finely  shred  spring 
onions,  sprinkled  with  salt  and  pepper,  then 
sprayed  with  mixed  olive  oil  and  tarragon  vin- 
egar. .  .  (4)  Finely  shred  lettuce  seasoned  with 


French  dressing  and  garnished  with  peeled  d 
sliced  tomatoes,  piped  with  a  Remoulade  sauce. 
...  (5)  Shred  lettuce  tossed  with  Remoulade 
sauce  and  minced  capers;  served  garnished  with 
peeled  and  sliced  tomatoes  sprayed  with  French 
dressing. 

LIMA  BEAN  SALAD— Fresh  green  lima  beans 
boiled,  drained,  cooled,  moistened  with  a  cream 
salad  dressing;  served  garnished  with  water- 
cress sprayed  with  caper  vinegar. 

LOBSTER  SALAD— Two  parts  of  diced  lobster 
meat  to  one  part  of  fine  cut  celery,  seasoned 
with  salt, pepper  and  tarragon  vinegar,  placed  on 
platter  and  masked  with  mayonnaise;  garnished 
with  slices  of  hard  boiled  eggs  and  shredded 
lettuce.  .  .  (2)  Equal  parts  of  diced  lobster 
meat  and  diced  cold  boiled  potatoes,  mixed 
with  cream  salad  dressing;  served  with  cubes 
of  steamed  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs  alternately 
as  a  garnish.  ,  .  (3)  Slices  of  lobster  meat 
dipped  in  Montpelier  butter  arranged  down  the 
centre  of  platter;  served  garnished  with  alter- 
nate tufts  of  watercress;  sliced  egg  with  yolk  re- 
moved and  its  place  filled  with  lobster  coral; 
sliced  cucumber,  and  small  rings  of  onion,  the 
interior  of  the  ring  filled  with  caviare.  .  .  (4) 
Shredded  lettuce  and  lobster  meat,  seasoned 
with  oil,  salt,  pepper  and  tarragon  vinegar, 
placed  on  platter  and  masked  with  mayonnaise, 
decorated  with  capers,  sliced  stuffed  olives, 
lobster  coral,  quartered  eggs,  and  watercress 
(also  the  small  claws). 

MACEDOINE  SALAD— Out  of  slices  of  cooked 
c*rrot,  white  and  yellow  turnip,  and  bottoms 
of  artichokes,  stamp  fancy  shapes,  add  to  them 
cooked  greeu  peas  and  asparagus  tips,  also 
finely  cut  stringless  beans,  mix  all  together; 
serve  on  lettuce  leaves,  with  French  dressing 
and  a  few  capers. 

OYSTER  SALAD— Oysters  scalded  and  washed, 
cooled,  served  on  lettuce  leaf  with  Tartar  sauce. 
...  (2)  Equal  quantities  of  white  celery  and 
cabbage  minced  together  and  blanched,  then 
cooled;  oysters  scalded  with  their  own  liquor,  to 
which  is  added  a  little  vinegar  and  salt,  then 
drained  and  cooled;  season  the  celery  and  cab- 
bage with  a  little  oil  and  white  vinegar,  place 
it  in  centre  of  dish,  dip  the  oysters  in  mayon- 
naise and  surround  the  centre. 

ONION  SALAD— Take  either  the  Bermuda  or 
Spanish  onion,  peel  them,  slice  in  rings  one- 
quarter  inch  thick,  steam  them  till  half  done, 
then  let  them  become  very  cold;  serve  on  let- 
tuce leaves,  with  Ravigote  sauce. 

OYSTER  PLANT  SALAD— Cold  boiled  oyster 
plant,  cut  in  finger  lengths;  when  very  cold, 
season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  the  ends 
in  Ravigote  sauce,  arrange  on  fancy  strips  of 
cooled  toast  (like  asparagus)  and  garnish  with 
aspic  jelly. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


153 


OKRA  SALAD — Okras  blanched,  drained  and  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  then  moisten  with 

quartered;  served  on  a  bed  of  shredded  endive;  one  part  of  vinegar  to  three  parts  of  olive  oil; 

pour  over  French  dressing  containing  chopped  serve  on  a  bed  of  shredded  lettuce  and  garnish 

chives  and  chervil.  with  eggs. 

PARTRIDGE  SALAD— Cold  trimmed  joints  of  SALSIFY  SALAD— Cold  boiled  salsify,    mixed 

roast  partridge,  marinaded  in  tarragon  vinegar  with  French  dressing,  in  centre  of  dish,  garn- 

and  olive  oil.     (One  in  two  add  salt,  pepper,  ished   with   small   balls   of    steamed   potatoes 


minced  chives  and  chervil);  serve  on  a  bed  of 
shredded    lettuce,    pour    the  marinade   over, 
garnish  with  sliced  eggs,  capers  and  gherkins. 
...  (2)  Cold  roast  partridge  cut  in  dice,  marin- 
aded for  two  hours  in  French  dressing,  drain 
it,    then   mix   the    partridge    with    an    equal 
amount  of  diced  white  celery;  place  the  salad 
on  a  leaf  of  lettuce,  mask  with  a  mayonnaise, 
garnish  with  minced  pickle  and  chopped  capers. 
POTATO  SALAD— Cold  boiled  potatoes  sliced, 
little  minced  onion  and  chopped  parsley,  mixed 
and  seasoned  with  salt,   pepper,  oil  and  vine- 
gar. .  .  (2)  Slices  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  shred- 
ded salt  anchovies,  chopped  parsley,  pepper, 
salt,   French   mustard,    tarragon   vinegar  and 
cream  salad  dressing,   all  mixed  together  and 
served  on  lettuce.  .  .  (3)  Sliced  thin  cold  boiled 
potatoes,  thoroughly  mixed  with  French  dress- 
ing, adding  a  little  more  vinegar.  .  .  (4)  Sliced 
cold   boiled   potatoes,    sliced   onion,    chopped 
parsley,   fried  bacon  in  dice  with  its  fat,  salt, 
pepper  and  cream  salad   dressing,    all  mixed 
together  and  served  on  lettuce.  .  .  (5)  Balls  of 
potatoes  scooped  from  peeled  raw  ones,  steamed 
till  done,  then  cooled,  moistened  with  Hollan- 
daise  sauce;  served  on  lettuce  and  sprinkled 
with  finely  chopped  chives  and  chervil. 
ROMAINE  SALAD— Broad  shredded  Romaine 
lettuce  leaves,  sprinkled  with  salt,  pepper,  oil 
and  tarragon  vinegar. 
RUSSIAN    SALAD— Cooked   salad    of    carrots, 
parsnips  and  beetroots  cut  in  shapes;  pieces  of 
fowl  and  shredded  anchovies,  mixed  together  and 
seasoned  with  combined  oil,  vinegar  and  French 
mustard;   served    garnished    with    olives    and 
caviar.  ,  .  (2)  Cooked  ham,  smoked  tongue, roast 
beef,  chicken  and  mutton  cut  in  dice,  shredded 
salt   anchovies;    season   and   mix   with  Tartar 
sauce ;serve  within  a  border  of  shredded  lettuce. 
RADISH   SALAD— Take   round   red  and  white 
radishes,  thoroughly  clean   them,  then  cut  in 
halves,    arrange   the  halves  alternately,    skin 
side  up,  on  a  bed  of  shredded  lettuce,  sprinkle 
with  French  dressing  and  garnish  with  stuffed 
olives. 
SARDINE  SALAD— Hard  boiled  eggs  and  boiled 
onions  in  slices,  sardines  in  fillets,  dished  up  in 
alternate  layers,  sprinkled  with  French  dress- 
ing containing  chopped  parsley,    chives    and 
chervil. 
SALMON  SALAD— Equal  quantities  of  cooked 
beet  and  raw  celery  minced,   then  mixed  to- 
gether; boiled  salmon  in  flakes  added;  season 


moistened  with  cream  dressing. 
SCOTCH  SALAD— Two  parts  of  diced  celery  to 
one  part  of  flakes  of  cooked  salmon;  season  with 
oil,   salt  and  vinegar;   serve  on  lettuce,  mask 
with  mayonnaise,  garnish  with  sliced  egg  and 
stuffed  olives. 
SHR       P   SALAD — Shrimps   marinaded   in   oil 
and   vinegar,    drained,    mixed   with    shredded 
celery  in  inch  lengths,   dressed  with   mayon- 
naise,   garnished   with   stoned   olives,    capers, 
hard  boiled  eggs  and  coiled  shrimps. 
SPANISH  SALAD— Peeled  tomatoes  sliced  and 
arranged   on   dish   with   pickled    small    white 
onions,  mayonnaise  in  centre.  .  .  (2)   Shredded 
endive  garnished  with  quartered  peeled  toma- 
toes and  quartered  eggs,  yolk  removed  and  its 
place  iilled  with  shrimp  paste.      The  endive  to 
be  sprinkled  with  minced  sweet  peppers  and 
shallots,  oil,  salt,  pepper  and  vinegar. 
SOUTHERN  SALAD— Take  tender  okras,  trim 
the   ends,    boil   till  tender,  drain,   let  become 
very  cold.      Dip  some  sweet  peppers  in  hot  fat 
and  take  off  the  skins,  then  finely  shred  them 
like   matches,    mix  them  with  the  okras  and 
serve   with   mayonnaise.  .  .  {2)   Boil   till  done 
some  green  peppers,  let  them  become  very  cold, 
then  shred  them  like  matches  and  serve  with 
French  dressing. 
SWEDISH    SALAD— Cut   into    dice    an    equal 
quantity  of  cold  meat,  boiled  potatoes,  green 
apples,  pickled  herring  and  salted  anchovies, 
mix  mto  it  some  chopped  gherkins,  capers  and 
hard  boiled  eggs,  mix  all;  serve  on  lettuce  with 
French  dressing  and  garnish  with  stoned  olives. 
SWEETBREAD  SALAD-SI  ices  of  cooked  sweet- 
bread dipped  in  flour,   fried  with  butter,  then 
cooled  and  trimmed;  shredded  lettuce  in  centre 
of  dish  with  salad  cream  dressing;  sweetbreads 
masked  with  mayonnaise,  arranged  around  the 
lettuce;   garnish   with  slices   of  radishes  and 
beetroot. 
TARTARE  SALAD— Shredded  lettuce,   pickled 
cucumbers,    pickled   onions  and    pickled  her- 
ring; slice  the  cucumbers  and  cut  the  herring 
in  dice,   mix  together,   season  with  a  little  oil 
and   vinegar,    and  finish   with   Tartare   sauce; 
serve  on  lettuce. 
TOMATO  SALAD— Sliced  peeled  tomatoes  mar- 
inaded in  French  dressing,  drained,  sprinkled 
with  salt  and  pepper.  .  .  (2)  Sliced  peeled  to- 
matoes sprinkled  with  Parmesan  cheese  mois- 
tened with  Rhine  wine  and  olive  oil. 


154 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


VEAL  SALAD— Equal  quantitiss  of  cooked  veal 
and  boiled  potatoes  cut  in  dice  with  some  white 
celery;  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  cream 
salad  dressing;  served  on  lettuce,  garnished 
with  eggs. 

WATERCRESS  SALAD— Crisp,  cleaned  and 
picked  watercress,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper 
and  vinegar. 

COMBINATION  SALADS— Slices  of  cold  boiled 
potatoes,  Brussels  sprouts  boiled  and  cooled, 
flowerets  of  boiled  cauliflower,  and  shredded 
celery,  arranged  neatly  in  salad  bowl  with 
French  dressing.  .  .  (2)  Shred  lettuce,  endive, 
sliced  tomatoes,  spring  onions  and  radishes, 
tossed  lightly  together  with  French  dressing.  .  . 
(3)  Slices  of  potatoes  even  in  size,  slices  of 
truffles  and  minced  shallots,  dressed  with  oil 
and  caper  vinegar.  .  .  (4)  Yolks  of  eggs  rubbed 
through  a  sieve,  chopped  egg  whites,  gherkins, 
chervil  and  soy,  mixed  with  a  little  dressing 
composed  of  French  mustard,  essence  of  an- 
chovies, pepper  and  white  wine  vinegar,  garn- 
ished with  sliced  potatoes,  beetroot  and  celery. 

FRENCH  DRESSING— Four  parts  of  olive  oil 
to  one  part  of  vinegar,  white  or  tarragon,  a  lit- 
tle onion  juice,  finely  chopped  parsley,  salt  and 
pepper. 

CREAM  DRESSING— One  cup  each  of  white 
vinegar  and  melted  butter,  one  dessert  spoon  of 
dry  mustard,  one  teaspoon  of  paprika,  eight 
yolks  of  eggs,  one  quart  of  whipping  cream. 
Boil  the  vinegar,  butter  and  seasonings  to- 
gether; pour  it  then  to  the  beaten  yolks,  stir 
over  the  range  till  like  custard,  remove  and 
cool,  then  whip  the  cream  and  beat  it  into  the 
dressing. 

HOLLANDAISE  DRESSING— One  pint  of 
white  vinegar,  one  quart  of  milk,  one  cup  of  oil 
or  melted  butter,  one  basting  spoonful  of  dry 
mustard,  one  teaspoon  of  red  pepper,  one 
tablespoonful  of  paprika,  twelve  eggs,  salt  to 
taste.  Boil  the  vinegar  with  the  seasonings; 
meanwhile  separate  the  yolks  and  whites,  and 
beat  them  separately;  bring  the  milk  to  the  boil 
and  pour  it  to  the  yolks,  then  add  the  boiling 
vinegar,  stir  on  the  range  till  it  just  thickens 
like  mustard  (do  noi  let  it  boil  or  it  will  curdle). 
Wiien  of  the  custard  consistency,  remove  from 
the  fire  and  beat  in  the  whipped  whites  with 
lae  melted  butter  or  oil,  then  put  away  to  cool 
^or  use. 

SALAMANDER— Name  given  to  a  heated  iron 
plate  used  for  quickly  browning  the  gratinated 
surface  of  certain  dishes  of  escalloped  foods, 
etc.  In  some  kitchens  the  dish  is  placed  on  the 
ashes  under  the  hot  bars  of  the  grate;  in  others 
a  small  shovel  is  made  hot.  Where  there  is  a 
gas  oven  with  a  top  cooking  surface  the  dish 
may  be  placed  under  the  grill.  All  tend  to  the 
same  purpose,   that  or   quickly    obtaining    a 


brown  surface  without  further  cooking  the  in- 
terior. 

SALMI— SALMIS— These  two  words  each  sig- 
nify a  form  of  stew,  and  seldom  are  they  prop- 
erly used.  It  is  always  applied  to  game. 
SALMIS  is  used  when  the  stew  is  made  from 
cold  cooked  game  that  has  been  left  over  from 
a  previous  meal.  SALMI  is  a  stew  made  from 
fresh  cooked  game  specially  roasted  at  the  time 
required  to  make  the  stew  for  the  coming  meal. 

SALLY  LUNN— Name  applied  to  a  light  sweet 
yeast  raised  tea  cake;  served  split  and  buttered, 
fresh  and  hot. 

SALMON,  BOILED— It  small,  boil  whole;  if 
large  cut  in  two  or  three.  Put  to  boil  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  laying  the  fish  on  a  drainer, 
boil  a  minute,  raise  the  drainer,  let  the  water 
boil  very  rapidly,  then  plunge  fish  and  drainer 
in  again,  then  repeat  the  operation  and  allow 
to  boil  till  done.  By  this  method  the  albumen 
of  the  fish  coagulates  and  the  flesh  eats  much 
better.  Serve  with  plain  melted  butter.  Hoi- 
landaise,  Allemande,  caper,  Bfechamel,  fennel, 
cream  or  butter  parsley  sauce. 

SALMON,  BAKED— The  fish  should  be  small. 
Scale,  trim,  wash  and  dry  it,  turn  the  thin  flap 
of  the  belly  inwards  and  tie  it  with  thin  twine; 
cover  the  fish  then  with  a  fish  forcemeat;  bake 
and  baste  till  done;  serve  in  portions  with 
Genoise  or  Pferigueux  sauces. 

SALMON,  BROILED— Scale,  trim,  wash  and 
dry  the  fish,  then  cut  in  equally  thick  slices, 
season  with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  dip  in 
olive  oil,  roll  up  in  oiled  paper,  tuck  in  the  ends 
and  pin  with  a  toothpick,  plunge  into  hot  fat 
and  cook  for  7  to  10  minutes  according  to  the 
thickness,  then  raise  the  frying  basket,  let  it 
drain  for  a  minute;  then  put  the  cutlet,  still  ic 
the  paper,  on  the  broiler,  broil  till  nicely 
marked,  remove  the  paper,  place  on  dish;  serve 
with  Tartar,  Genevoise,  fine-herbs  or  miitre 
d'hotel  sauces  or  with  anchovy  or  Montpelier 
butter. 

SALMON  STEAKS  OR  CUTLETS— Boil  them 
in  boiling  seasoned  white  fish  stock  till  done 
and  serve  with  lobster,  oyster,  cucumber  or 
supreme  sauces.  Saut^  them  with  clear  butter 
a  delicate  brown  and  serve  with  Aurora,  Milan- 
aise,  V&loutfe,  gherkin,  piquante,  or  ravigote 
sauces. 

SALMON  (COLD,  BOILED)— May  be  served 
with  sliced  cucumbers,  Tartar,  ravigote  or 
mayonnaise  sauces. 

SALMON  CROQUETTES— Take  flakes  of  cold 
boiled  salmon  and  shred  them,  season  with  red 
pepper  and  salt,  also  a  dash  each  of  anchovy 
and  Harvey  sauces.  Then  mix  the  fish  with 
one-third  of  its  bulk  of  fresh  mashed  potatoes: 
turn  on  to  a  dish,  smooth  it  over,  allow  to  be- 
come cold,   then  shape  pieces  of  the  mixvurt 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


155 


into  small  flat  cutlets  like  a  cutlet  from  the 
tail  of  the  fish;  bread  and  fry  them  and  serve 
with  cream  or  fennel  sauces,  garnish  with  Hol- 
landaise  potatoes. 

SALMON,  SMOKED— May  be  boiled  and  served 
with  cream  sauce.  .  .  Broiled  and  served  with 
devil  or  drawn  butter  sauce.  .  .  Fried  in  oil  and 
served  with  lemon  sauce.  .  .  Toasted  and  served 
with  miitre  d'hotel  sauce. 

SALMON,  MAYONNAISE  OF— Take  the  center 
cut  of  a  salmon,  curl  the  flaps  under  and  tie  with 
twine,  boil  in  seasoned  fish  stock  till  done,  re- 
move and  skin,  then  allow  to  become  cold 
(retaining  its  shape),  place  on  dish,  mask  well 
with  mayonnaise,  decorate  the  mayonnaise  with 
lobster  coral,  garnish   with   watercress;  serve. 

SALSIFY — For  recipes,  see  "Oyster  plant". 

SAUERKRAUT— See  "cabbage". 

SAUCES  AND  THEIR  USES. 

ADMIRAL  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter  sauce 
made  with  white  seasoned  fish  stock,  work 
some  pounded  anchovies,  minced  fried  shal- 
lots, chopped  capers,  :;:.  d  a  little  grated  lemon 
rind.  .  .  Serve  with  bluefish  saute  .  .  .  boiled 
pickerel  .  .  .  pike  or  muskallonge  .  .  .  boiled 
sheephead  .  .  .  boiled  weakfish  .  .  .  Mackinaw 
trout. 

ALBERT  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter  sauce 
made  from  veal  or  other  white  stock,  work  some 
grated  horseradish,  minced  fried  shallots, 
chopped  parsley,  tarragon  vinegar;  boil  up 
again,  then  strain,  then  finish  with  a  liaison  of 
egg  yolks,  a  pinch  of  mustard  and  chopped 
parsley.  Serve  with  braised  fillet  of  beef, 
any  braised  beef.  .  .  It  is  also  used  to  poach 
eggs  in  when  an  addition  of  curry  is  given  to  it 
for  "Eggs  Indienne  style".    See  eggs. 


cayenne  pepper,  some  pounded  anchovies  01 
anchovy  essence.  Used  for  boiled  fish  such  as: 
boiled  bass,  cod,  plaice,  haddock,  halibut,  her- 
ring, kingfish,  pike,  rockfish,  weakfish,  and  sh»d 
roe. 

ANDALUSIAN  SAUCE— Into  a  rich  tomatc 
sauce,  work  some  grated  lean  cooked  ham,  and 
a  little  minced  (fried)  garlic.  Used  with  braised 
meats,  such  as  larded  tenderloin  of  beei,  fri- 
candeau  of  veal,  legs  or  saddles  of  mutton,  and 
haunch  of  venison. 

APRICOT  SAUCE— A  syrup  sauce  containing 
apricct  marmalade  and  a  flavoring  of  Catawba 
wine.  Used  for  timbale  of  apples,  charJotte  of 
apples,  apple  puddings,  apple  fritters. 

AVIGNON  SAUCE— Equal  quantities  of  a  Sou- 
bise  pure^  and  a  good  B^hamel  saucfl  com- 
bined together  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
crushed  garlic,  Parmesan  cheese  and  olive  oil; 
bring  it  to  the  boil,  then  thicken  with  a  liaison 
of  egg  yolks,  strain  and  use  for  boiled  legs  of 
mutton,  boiled  fowls  and  capons,  stewed  part- 
ridge, boiled  pheasant,  boiled  salt  leg  of  pork, 
fried  sweetbreads,  chicken  croquettes,  sweet- 
bread croquettes. 

AURORA  SAUCE— Into  some  reduced  Espag- 
nole  sauce  work  enough  lobster  butter  to  give 
the  sauce  an  orange  color  ...  Or  work  lobster 
butter  into  a  Bfechamel  sauce  ...  Or  take  two 
parts  Bechamel  and  one  part  tomato  sauce, 
adding  also  a  little  mushroom  catsup  and  lob- 
ster butter.  In  either  of  these  combinations 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  dash  of  cayenne 
pepper  and  tarragon  vinegar.  Used  for  baked 
carp,  boiled  cod  steak,  baked  fillets  of  soles, 
halibut  steak  saut^,  salmon  steak  saut^,  fillets 
of  trout  saut6,  boiled  trout;  also  used  in  pre- 
paring "eggs  a  I'Aurore"  (see  Eggs). 


ALLEMANDE    SAUCE— Into   a  good    VMoutfe    t,  attat^t  axt  o  att^tt     d  -i  •  *    i,  11 

,  ,  .   .  ,.,,,  ,      BAVARIAN  SAUCE — Boil  some  vmegar  to  half 

sauce,  work  some    lemon  juice,  a  little  mush-        ,^ ._r_-i 1 _.:.u w_*iJ_    _  i.-^.i- 


room  catsup,  cayenne,  butter,  yolks  of  eggs,  a 
grating  of  nutmeg,  then  strain.  It  should  be 
yellow,  and  smooth  as  velvet.  Serve  with 
boiled  pig's  feet  .  .  .  braised  eels  .  .  .  fried  carp 
.  .  .  paupiettes  of  sole  .  .  .  boiled  codfish  .  . 
fried  haddock  .  .  .  fried  fillets  of  mackerel  .  .  . 
baked  perch  .  .  .  baked  shad  .  .  .  baked  trout 
.  .  .  boiled  chicken  .  .  .  boiled  pheasant .  .  .  fried 
pike.  It  is  also  the  foundation  of  many  other 
sauces,  fish  especially. 

ALMOND  SAUCE— A  sweet  custard  sauce  con- 
taining pounded  and  shredded  almonds,  also  a 
dash  of  ratafia.  Served  with  fig  fritters  .  .  . 
almond  custard  fritters,  etc. 

ANCHOVY  SAUCE— Anchovy  butter  worked  in- 
to a  good  Espagnole  sauce.  Used  for  broiled 
steaks,  baked  fish,  and  as  a  filler  for  steak  and 
oyster  pie. 

ANCHOVY  SAUCE— Into  a  well  made  butter 
sance  work  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  dash  of 


its  original  volume  with  some  butter,  a  littU 
horseradish,  salt  and  grated  nutmeg;  beat  some 
yolks  of  eggs,  then  pour  the  boiling  mixture  to 
it  to  make  like  mayonnaise,  strain,  then  beat 
in  a  little  more  butter,  and  some  lobster  roe, 
beat  till  creamy  and  frothy,  then  use  for  cold 
fish,  and  fish  salads. 

BECHAMEL  SAUCE— Into  some  reduced  chick- 
en broth,  add  some  mushroom  essence  or  pure^, 
an  equal  quantity  of  rich  milk  or  cream,  a  season* 
ing  of  mace;  bring  to  the  boil,  then  thicken  witb 
roux  (flour  and  butter),  strain.  Used  for  boile* 
chicken,  scalloped  codfish,  scalloped  halibut, 
scalloped  turbot,  scalloped  sweetbreads;chicketu 
turkey  and  sweetbread  croquettes;  also  for  mix- 
ing with  green  peas,  asparagus  points,  mac&» 
doine  of  vegetables,  etc.  when  used  for  garnish- 
ing. 

BEARNAISE  SAUCE— Braise  some  shallotr 
with  a  little  tarragon  vinegar,  add  some  rich- 
thin   VMout&   sauce,    simmer,    then  add  some 


X56 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


beaten  yolks  of  eggs;  when  like  custard,  re- 
move from  the  fire,  then  beat  in  melted  butter 
at  the  rate  of  three  tablespoons  to  the  pint, 
work  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  little  cayenne 
pepper,  then  strain  and  finish  with  some  finely 
chopped  parsley  and  tarragon.  Used  for 
broiled  steaks,  roast  fillet  of  beef,  broiled 
sweetbreads,  lamb  fries,  veal  and  lamb  cutlets. 

BEYROUT  SAUCE— Fetch  to  the  boil  one  and  a 
half  pounds  of  butter  with  two  minced  medium 
sized  onions,  a  basting  spoonful  of  tarragon  vine- 
gar and  the  same  of  common  vinegar,  a  half  pint 
of  Espagnole,  a  half  cupful  each  of  mushroom 
catsup  and  Harvey  sauce;  simmer,  skim,  then 
boil  till  creamy,  remove  from  the  fire,  finish 
with  a  litde  sugar  and  anchovy  essence.  Used 
with  cold  fish  and  fish  salads. 

BIGARADE  SAUCE- -Take  equal  quantities  of 
game  and  Espagnole  sauces,  and  work  in  the 
juice  and  grated  rind  of  Seville  or  other  bitter 
orange.  Used  for  braised  fillet  of  beef,  stewed 
duck,  fried  duckling,  roast  duck. 

BOHEMIAN  SAUCE— Make  some  panada  with 
chicken  or  veal  broth,  and  work  into  it  some 
grated  horseradish  and  a  little  butter.  (A 
white  bread  sauce,  used  with  roast  partridge). 

BOUERGOISE  SAUCE— Into  a  pint  of  thin 
Espagnole,  work  a  spoonful  each  of  chopped 
parsley,  chervil,  tarragan,  meat  glaze,  French 
mustard  and  sugar,  bring  it  to  a  simmer,  then 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon.  Used  with  forcemeat 
balls;  in  garnishing  fricandeaus  of  veal,  car- 
bonades  of  mutton,  roulade  of  veal,  saut^  of 
pigs  feet  (boneless),  and  braised  ox  heart. 

BOURGIGNOTTE  SAUCE— Into  some  Espag- 
nole, work  some  minced  fried  onions,  sliced 
truffles  and  mushrooms,  finish  with  some  Bur- 
gundy wine.  Used  with  braised  small  game 
birds,  braised  carp,  whole  carp  stewed  in  red 
wine,  fried  cutlets  of  sturgeon,  mutton  cutlets 
saute^s,  fillets  of  pigeons  saute^s. 

BORDELAISE  SAUCE.  WHITE— Into  a  rich 
butter  sauce  work  some  minced  fried  shallots, 
chopped  parsley  and  white  wine.  Used  with 
matelote  of  eels,  paupiettes  of  soles,  boiled 
mackerel,  crimped  cutlets  of  pike,  boiled  hali- 
but, turbot. 

BORDELAISE  SAUCE,  BROWN— Into  some 
Espagnole,  work  some  minced  fried  shallots, 
and  garlic,  red  wine,  cayenne  pepper,  chopped 
parsley,  lemon  juice  and  slices  of  beef  marrow . 
Used  with  broiled  steaks  and  almost  any  braised 
red  meat  .  .  .  Omit  the  marrow  and  add  fillets 
of  anchovies  and  a  little  anchovy  essence,  it  is 
then  used  with  braised  fish,  also  baked  and 
broiled  fish. 

BRESSOISE  SAUCE— Into  some  Madeira  sauce, 
work  a  pure^  made  of  chicken  livers,  panada, 
fried  minced  shallots,  grated  rind  and  j  nice  of 
an  orange.     Used  with  roast  chicken,  chicken 


croquettes,  roast  capon,  omelet  of  chicken  liv- 
ers, and  quenelles  of  turkey. 

BRETONNE  SAUCE,  HOT— Into  some  Espag- 
nole, work  a  pure^  of  fried  onions,  finish  with 
chopped  parsley.  Used  with  roast  mutton, 
braised  saddle  of  mutton,  cutlets  of  mutton, 
braised  ox  cheek,  and  grenadins  of  pork. 

BRETONNE  SAUCE,  COLD— A  spoonful  each 
of  mustard  and  sugar,  with  two  spoonfuls  of 
grated  horseradish,  worked  into  a  half  pint  of 
tarragon  vinegar.  Used  with  cold  roast  or 
braised  mutton,  beef,  ox  tongue,  roast  pork, 
etc. 

CAPER  SAUCE — Into  a  good  butter  or  VJiloutfe 
sauce,  work  in  some  whole  capers  and  a  little 
tarragon  vinegar.  Used  with  boiled  mutton, 
boiled  fresh  ox  tongue  and  boiled  pigs  feet. 

CAPER  SAUCE  FOR  FISH —Make  a  white 
roux,  moisten  it  with  a  light  consomm^,  season 
it  with  cayenne,  grated  nutmeg,  essence  of 
anchovies,  lemon  juice,  and  capers,  with  a  dash 
of  caper  vinegar.  Used  with  broiled  salmon 
steak,  broiled  carp,  baked  codfish,  boiled  red 
mullet,  boiled  pike,  boiled  sheephead,  boiled 
red  snapper,  boiled  shad,  and  braised  salmon 
trout. 

CARROT  SAUCE  — Into  some  Vfeloutfe  sauce 
work  a  pure^  of  young  carrots.  Very  good  for 
boiled  beef. 

CARDINAL  SAUCE— Into  a  good  Vfeloutfe  sauce 
work  some  lobster  butter,  a  little  anchovy  es- 
sence, lemon  juice,  cayenne,  essence  of  mush- 
rooms, and  lobster  roe,  or  shrimps,  rubbed 
through  a  tamis.  Used  with  boiled  chicken 
and  capon,  boudins  of  lobster,  paupiettes  of 
soles,  ragout  of  mullets,  fillets  of  perch,  stuffed 
and  braised  carp  and  pike,  boiled  salmon,  fillets 
of  turbot  and  halibut,  fillets  of  soles  and  boiled 
sturgeon. 

CAULIFLOWER  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter 
sauce  work  some  small  flowerets  of  white  cauli- 
flower.    Very  good  for  boiled  poultry. 

CELERY  SAUCE,  WHITE— Into  some  light 
Allemande  sauce  work  a  pure^  of  celery.  Good 
with  boiled  turkey  and  white  entrees  of  turkey 
wings. 

CELERY  SAUCE,  BROWN— Into  a  good  thick- 
ened roast  poultry  gravy  work  in  some  finely 
cut  celery  and  simmer  it  till  done.  Very  good 
with  roast  poultry,  and  dry,  brown  entrees  of 
poultry. 

CHASSEUR  SAUCE— Into  equal  parts  of  Es- 
pagnole and  tomato  sauces,  work  some  minced 
fried  onions,  sliced  mushrooms,  chopped  pars- 
ley and  lemon  juice.  Used  with  mutton  cut- 
lets saute^s,  saut^  of  partridge,  veal  cutlets, 
roast  prairie  chicken,  roast  black  game,  braised 
small  game  birds,  venison  steak,  cutlets  of  roe- 
buck, roast  young  rabbit,  'egs  of  rabbit  saut^. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK.  157 

fillets  of  hare  or  jackrabbit,  and  braised  larded  oil,  drained,  then  added  to  a  thick  veal  gravy, 

ribs  of  beef.  Good  with  roast  veal. 

CHANTAUSEN  SAUCE— A  syrup  sauce  flav-  CLARET   SAUCE— A  foaming  sauce  of  grated 

ored  with  cloves,   cinnamon,   bay  leaves    and  lemon  rind,  powdered  cinnamon,  eggs,  sugar  and 

Chantansen    wine.     Used    for    puddings    and  claret,    whipped   over  a   slow  fire  to  boiling 

sweet  entrees.  point.     Used  with  puddings  and  sweet  entrees. 

CHATEAUBRIAND  SAUCE— One  pint  of  Es-  COLBERT  SAUCE— Into  a  pint  of  Espagnole, 

pagnole,  a  half  pint  of  meat  glaze,  a  half  pint  ^ork  in  a  spoonful  of  meat  glaze,  a  little  cay- 

of  white  wine,  simmer,  strain,  then  beat  in  a  e°°e,  lemon  juice  and  chopped  parsley,  make 

half  pint  of  m^itre  d'hotel  sauce.     Used  with  ^ery  hot.  but  do  not  boil,  then  very  gradually 

broiled  steaks,  fillets  of  beef.  **«**  i°  a  cupful  of  melted  butter.     Used  with 

CHAMBORD  SAUCE-Into  a  pint  of  Yhlonih.  ^^l^^^^  ZT.:.^riTl' """"T"-  r 

work  a  half  pint  of  white  mushroom  pure6.  a  COURT -BOUILLON   SAUCE-Into  a  butter 

piece  of  chicken  glaze,  a  glass  of  sauteme,  and  f  ?f «  ?**   ^ff  b««°  ^^^«  f'-°'»,  th«  «t°<=l^  °* 

a  spoonful  of  lobster  butter.     Used  with  fillets  ^'^^  ^^^'  ^^^  ^"^^  "^8=  °*  ^'^^  °°»°°s  ^""^ 

of  bass,  baked  bass,  pike,  carp,  fish  croquettes.  ?°PP«?  IT^^'     ^"^^  ''l*^  ?°"*^  '=°^^'^' 

,  ^  boiled  haddock,   braised  eels,  boiled  rockfish, 

CHAMPAGNE  SAUCE-Into  a  pmt  of  Espag-  foiled  plaice,  boiled  weakfish.  boiled  redsnap- 

nole,  simmer  a  half  pint  each  of  sherry  wine  p^^,  and  boiled  salmon  trout. 

^astham"  ^''^  ^  ""^^  '"^*'"     ^"^'^  ^''^  CRAPAUDINE  SAUCE-Take  equal  quantities 

of  Espagnole  and  tomato  sauces,  combine  them, 

CHADEAU  SAUCE— A  foaming  sauce  of  eight  then  add  some  minced  gherkins,  shallots. chives, 

yolks  and  two  whites  of  eggs,  juice  of  a  lemon,  olives  and  capers,   a  little  mustard,  tarragon 

half    a  pound  of  sugar,    a  quart  of  chablis,  vinegar,    minced   mushrooms  and  a  glass    of 

whipped  over  a  slow  fire  to  boiling  point.  Used  sherry   wine.     Used   with   braised  brisket    of 

for  sweet  entrees.  beef,  broiled  pork  chops,  frog  legs,  boiled  calf's 

CHAUDFROID  SAUCE-Take  some  carcasses  head,  broiled  pigeons,  fried  saddles  of  rabbit, 

of  roast  game  or  poultry  and  a  bunch  of  mixed  calf's  liver  saut^,  braised  fillets  of  hare,  broiled 

garden  herbs,  cover  with  good  stock,   simmer  opossum,  braised  turtle  fins,  and  venison, 

for  several  hours,   strain,   skim,  boil  up  again  CREOLE  SAUCE — Into  a  good  tomato  sauce, 

and  add  enough   gelatine   to  make    a    brown  work  in  some  chopped  blanched  sweet  peppers, 

jellied  gravy.     Used  with  roast  poultry.  minced  fried  shallots,  a  little  Madeira  sauce 

CHERRY   SAUCE — Sweet,   butter  sauce,  con-  and  Madeira  wine.     Used  with  scallops  of  fillet 

taining  cherries  that  have  been  stewed   with  o^  beet,   ragout   of  beef,  chicken  saut^,  pork 

port  wine  and  sugar,   then  rubbed  through  a  rissoles,  honeycomb  tripe  cut  in  finger  lengths 

sieve.     Used  for  sweet  entrees.  *°*^  stewed  down  rich  in  it,  catfish  steak  saut^, 

/^TiTnrT>T?TTTT   OATT/-T?     T   i           xu •  J         i.T7  tomatoes  stuflfed  with  crab  meat,  fried  oysters, 

CHEVREUIL  SAUCE — Into  one-third  part  Es-  ^     .    1         t           u  w     u    1  j           v.  ^J      -.1 

,                        *u-  J  i        »                   J  timbales  of  spaghetti,   boiled   spaghetti    with 

pagnole  sauce,  one-third  tomato  sauce  and  one-  .        ,,              j    .    ^  -     •.    i_     -,  j         1    . -j 

fu-  J    L    y      jj     1-wi    xu             u       1-    f  minced  ham  made  hot  m  it,  broiled  pork  kid- 

third  stock,  add  a  little  thyme,  a  bunch  of  pars-  ,,      ...             /^ji-        «-j 

,.            *uui                          -ji-j  °8ys  and  lamb  fries,  pork  tenderloins,  fried 

ley,  two  or  three  bay  leaves,  some  minced  fried  '      .,            ,     .            *^  .   ,      ..    .    ,       .      .. 

/ ,,   .                 xi«u-*                            *  spareribs,  veal  chops  sautees,  timbale  of  calf 

shallots,  a  spoonful  of  white  pepper,  some  tar-  .  *^  •                    ^^        *  w     *    il     *           ^^.      ^ 

^       J  u  XX          r       -x.  X           V  ir  brains,  croquettes  of  beef,   beef  sweetbreads 

ragon  vinegar  and  butter;  reduce  It  to  one-half  ,,         .^     ,        ,,           '    ^ 

...        •  •     1  u  11      X    •     £  •  u      -xu              X  sautees,  minced  mutton  cutlets, 
of  its  original  bulk,  strain,  finish  with  currant 

jelly,  Harvey  sauce  and  port  wine.     Used  with  CREVETTE   SAUCE-  Into  a  cardinal    sauce 

roebuck  and  venison,  roasted,  filleted,  braised.  '«'°'^^  5°°«  P'«<=«s  °^  shrimps  and  anchovies. 

glg^  Used  with  boiled  crimped  codfish,  boiled  plaice 

and  flounders,     fillets    of    Spanish  mackerel, 

CHILI   SAUCE-Chop   together  six    tomatoes.  toiled  trout  and  whitefish.  fried  soles. 

four  green  peppers,  one  onion    add  them  to  a  CUCUMBER  SAUCE-Into  a  good  butter  sauce 

pint  of  white  wine  vinegar,  with  one  teaspoon  ^^^^  ^    ^^^^  ^j  cucumbers  or  some  slices  o! 

of  sngar  and  a  little  salt,  simmer  for  one  hour.  ^.^^.^^^er  fried  with  butter.     Good  for  boiled 

strain,  bottle.     Used  as  a  table  condiment.  ^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^ 

CHILI  SAUCE-Into  a  good  B&chamel  sauce,  CURRY  SAUCE-Into  a  Vfelout^  sauce,  boil  r 

work  some  minced  red  peppers,  tomatoes,  shal-  ham  knuckle  for  an  hour,    then   remove  an6 

lots  and   minced  parsley,    finish  with  melted  work  in  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  beaten  with  curry 

butter,    Catawba  wine  and   lime  juice.     Good  powder;  simmer,  strain.  Used  with  pork  chops, 

with  veal  cutlets,   pork  tenderloins,  boneless  pork  tenderloin,  fried  veal  chops  and  cutlets, 

pigs  feet,  stewed  catfish,  lamb  fries,  fricadelles,  and  tripe, 

broiled  beef  palates,  pickled  lamb  tongues.  CZARINA  SAUCE-Into  some  Espagnole  work 

CLAREMONT  SAUCE — Minced  onions  fried  in  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  some  minced  gherkins  and 


158 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


seedless  raisins,  boil  till  the  fruit  is  soft,  then 
serve  with  boiled  ox  tongue. 

CURACOA  SAUCE— A  butter  syrup  sauce  con- 
taining cura^^oa.  Used  with  puddings  and  some 
sweet  entrees  in  the  fritter  line. 

CUSTARD  SAUCE  —  Boiling  milk  or  cream 
poured  to  and  whipped  in  to  half  a  pound  of 
sugar  and  six  beaten  eggs  to  each  quart  of  milk; 
flavored  as  desired,  but  generally  with  nutmeg 
or  vanilla.  Used  with  puddings  and  sweet 
entrees. 

CRANBERRY  SAUCE-Cranberries  stewed  with 
sugar  till  soft,  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve. 
Used  with  roast  turkey. 

DIABLE  SAUCE  —  Three  tablespoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  three  of  meat  glaze,  one  of 
sugar,  half  a  cupful  of  mushroom  catsup,  and 
the  same  of  white  wine,  juice  of  a  lemon,  and 
enough  cayenne  pepper  to  make  it  as  hot  as  its 
name  implies;  thoroughly  incorporate  while 
making  it  hot,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil.  Used 
with  broiled  steaks,  broiled  kidneys,  broiled 
ham  steaks,  broiled  live  lobster,  broiled  pork 
chops  and  spareribs. 

DIABLE  SAUCE— Another  way  of  making  is  to 
take  one-third  stock  and  two-thirds  of  good 
Espagnole,  and  work  into  them  some  Worces- 
tershire sauce,  cayenne  pepper  and  made  mus- 
tard, then  simmer  and  strain. 

DIPLOMATE  SAUCE— Into  a  good  B^hamel 
sauce,  work  some  crayflsh  butter  and  a  little 
court-bouillon.  Good  for  most  boiled  white 
fleshed  fish. 

DUCHESSE  SAUCE— Into  a  pint  of  tomato 
sauce  work  in  half  a  pint  of  lean  cooked  ham 
in  small  dice,  half  a  cupful  of  white  wine,  a 
little  glaze,  bring  to  the  boil,  remove  from  the 
fire,  and  then  beat  in  a  half  pint  of  HoUandaise 
sauce.  Used  with  pork,  veal  and  mutton  chops> 
plain  macaroni,  Vienna  steaks,  pork  tenderloin 
and  spareribs,  ham  croquettes,  fried  tripe,  epi- 
gramme  of  sweetbreads,  braised  breast  of  veal, 
roulade  of  mutton,  fried  boneless  pigs  feet 
breaded,  rechauffe  of  mutton,  fried  chicken 

D'UXELLES  SAUCE— Into  a  Yhlouth  sauce, 
work  some  white  wine,  minced  mushrooms, 
grated  tongue  and  chopped  parsley  ...  Or  else 
use  B^hamfel  sauce  and  work  in  minced  pars- 
ley, shallots,  mushrooms  and  grated  ham.  It 
is  used  for  coating  cutlets  prior  to  their  being 
breaded  and  fried. 

EGG  SAUCE — Into  a  butter  sauce,  work  in  some 
chopped  hard  boiled  eggs  and  the  juice  of  a 
lemon.  Useful  for  all  kinds  of  plain  boiled 
fish. 

ESPAGNOLE  SAUCE— Two  pounds  of  good 
cooking  butter  placed  in  the  bottom  of  a  large 
sautoir;  into  it  then  place,  chopped  in  good 
sized  pieces,  two  ham  knuckles,  three  shins  of 


veal,  a  shin  of  beef,  and  let  them  fry  brown; 
then  add  slices  of  carrots,  onions,  turnips,  cel- 
ery,   parsiey,    thyme,    marjoram,  savory,   bay 
leaves,  cloves,  allspice,  peppers;  when  browned, 
add  sufficient  flour  to  form  a  roux.     Let  the 
flour  brown  also     Then  moisten  gradually  with 
a  rich  clear  brown  stock;   boil  up  and  skim, 
then  add  plenty  of  tomatoes;   boil   and   skim 
again,  then  add  two  or  three  chickens  (old  ones, 
useful  for  salad  afterward)  or  roast  fowl  car- 
casses; simmer  slowly  for  several  hours,  then 
strain  off  into  a  clean  sautoir;  then  add  a  gallon 
of  consomm^,  and  reduce  rapidly  till  of  a  good 
consistency;  strain  off  again  and  finish  with  good 
sherry  wine.     This  is  one  of  the  grand  stock 
sauces  which  form  the  basis  of  most  of  the 
brown  sauces  used.    YOU  CANNOT  BE  TOO 
PARTICULAR    IN    ITS     PREPARATION, 
FOR   IF   THE   FIRST   PROCESS  IS  NOT 
SUCCESSFULLY   EFFECTED.    NO    SUB- 
SEQUENT  CARE   WILL   REMEDY    THE 
MISCHIEF. 
FINE  HERBS  SAUCE  — Saut^  together    with 
butter  some  minced  parsley,  shallots  and  mush- 
rooms, season  with  a  little  pepper  and  nutmeg: 
after  about  five  minutes,  pour  off  the  waste 
butter,    and  add  a  ladle  of  good    Espagnole 
if  for  brown,  or  a  ladle  of  good  Vfeloutfe  sauce 
if  for  white.     Used   with  scallops  of  mutton, 
scallops  of  hare  and  rabbit,  fried  reed  and  rice 
birds,  saut^  of  soles,  brook  trout  baked  in  cases 
of  paper  spread  with  the  sauce,  roulade  of  beef , 
stuffed  calf's  heart,  roulade  of  veal,  veal  chops 
and  cutlets,  broiled  steaks,  brains,  sweetbreads, 
lamb  fries. 
FENNEL  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter  sauce, 
work   a  spoonful   of    chopped    fennel   leaves. 
Looks  like  parsley  sauce.      Used  with  boiled 
mackerel  and  boiled  salmon. 
FINANClfiRE  SAUCE— Into  a  quart  of  good 
Espagnole,  work  a  little  meat  glaze,  cayenne,  a 
half  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  a  half  pint  of  mush- 
room liquor  or  mushroom  catsup,  and  a  few 
minced  mushrooms  and   truffles      Used  with 
roast  or  braised  black  game  and  grouse,  .  .  . 
boudins  of  game,  .  .  .  saute^d   fillets  of  fowls, 
.  .  .  larded  and  braised  legs  of  fowls,  .  .  .  boned, 
stuffed  and  braised  saddle  of  lamb,  .  .  .  paupi- 
ettes  of  ox  palates,  .  .  .  for  heating  a  salmis  of 
partridge,  ...  for  a  filling  to  raised  pies  of 
game,  rabbits  and  quails,  .  .  .  roast  pheasant, 
.  .  .  boned,    stuffed    and    braised    quails,  .  .  . 
larded  and  braised  fillets  of  rabbits,  .  .  .  braised 
sweetbreads,  .  .  .  turkey  stuffed  with  veal  force- 
meat and  roasted,  .  .  .  veal  chops  larded  and 
braised,  .  .  .  larded  and  braised  fricandeau  of 
veal,  .  .  .  larded  and  braised  woodcocks. 
FLEMISH    SAUCE— (i)  Into  a  butter  sauce, 
work  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  chopped  parsley, 
tarragon  vinegar,  and  a  liaison  of  yolk  of  eggs 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


159 


with  a  little  mustard.     (2)  Make  a  quart  of  veg-  thick,  work  in  half  a  pint  of  brandj  and  a  grat- 
etable  cream  sauce,  then  take  a  cupful  of  the       ing  of  nutmeg.     A  good  pudding  sauce. 

^ed  par^t  of  carrot,  mince  it,  boil  till  done,  add  GOOSEBERRY  SAUCE— Into  a  V^loutS  sauce. 
^                                    -  work  a  pure^  of  stewed  green  gooseberries.     It 


it  to  the  sauce,  together  with  some  chopped 
cucumber,  pickles,  parsley  and  grated  horse 
radish.     Used  with  boiled  beef. 

FUMET  SAUCE— Into  a  good  Espagnole,  boi' 
some  game  carcasses,  strain  and  finish  with 
port  wine.     Used  with  roast  game. 

GENEVOISE  SAUCE— Into  a  good  Espagnole, 
add  a  little  grated  ham,  carrots,  minced  onions, 
a  few  bay  leaves,  cloves,  a  clove  of  garlic,  some 
thyme  and  parsley,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  add 
some  claret  wine,  strain,  and  finish  by  beating 
in  anchovy  essence  and  butter  to  taste.  Used 
with  braised  eels,  baked  pike,  broiled  salmon, 
broiled  red  snapper,  fricandeau  of  sturgeon, 
baked  trout,  baked  whitefish,  brook  trout, 
braised  sheephead,  baked  pickerel,  baked  Span- 
ish mackerel,  baked  and  stu&ed  bluefish,  black- 
fish  saute. 

GENOISE  SAUCE— Equal  quantities  of  Espag- 
nole and  court-bouillon  sauces  boiled  together 
for  ten  minutes  with  the  addition  of  some  port 
wine,  ground  mace,  essence  of  anchovies  and 
walnut  catsup,  then  strain,  finish  with  a  little 
chopped  parsley.  Used  with  larded  and  braised 
eels,  fillets  of  bluefish,  roast  carp,  baked  cod 
steak,  roast  eels,  baked  haddock,  baked  Span- 
ish mackerel,  baked  mullet,  braised  pike  and 
pickerel,  baked  salmon,  braised  sheephead, 
broiled  fillets  of  red  snapper,  baked  sturgeon, 
baked  trout,  baked  or  braised  carp,  boiled  char, 
matelote  of  eels,  broiled  mackerel,  boiled 
salmon  steak,  roast  turbot  and  halibut. 

GERMAN  SAUCE— A  foaming  sauce,  made  of 
twelve  eggs  beaten  fifteen  minutes.  Now  place 
into  a  sautoir  half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
and  a  pint  of  Marsala  wine,  make  hot,  but  do 
not  boil,  then  beat  in  the  eggs  with  the  juice  of 
a  couple  of  lemons,  whip  till  thick  and  frothy 
without  boiling.     A  rich  pudding  sauce. 

GIBLET  SAUCE— The  trimmed  and  finely  shred 
gizzards,  livers  and  hearts  of  poultry  stewed 
tender  and  added  to  the  thickened  and  strained 
gravy  of  roast  poultry  and  served  with  it. 

GODARD  SAUCE— Fry  some  slices  of  ham,  car- 
rots and  onions  in  butter  till  brown,  then  add  a 
quart  of  good  cider,  simmer  for  half  an  hour, 
then  add  a  can  of  mushrooms  minced,  and  their 
liquor,  reduce  for  ten  minutes,  then  strain  it 
into  a  quart  of  good  Espagnole,  and  boil  till 
creamy.  Used  with  braised  fowls,  braised 
capons,  braised  turkey,  roast  ham,  boned, 
stu£Eed  and  braised  saddle  of  lamb,  braised  leg 
of  mutton,  carbonade  of  mutton. 

GOLDEN  SAUCE  (Sauce  Dore^)— Half  a  pound 
of  butter  beaten  till  very  creamy;  into  it  dis- 
solve half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  now  beat 
in  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  over  the  fire;  when 


is  liked  by  many  with  boiled  mackerel. 

HAM  SAUCE — Into  a  Madeira  sauce,  work  some 
minced  shallots  and  grated  ham  that  have  been 
fried  together,  finish  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
Used  with  roast  veal. 

HANOVER  SAUCE— Take  chicken  livers  and 
boil  them,  then  rub  through  the  tamis,  add 
cream  sauce,  lemon  juice  and  a  dash  of  cay. 
enne,  little  salt,  make  hot  but  do  not  boil.  Used 
with  roast  poultry. 

HARROGATE  SAUCE— After  roasting  veal  and 
poultry,  take  the  roasting  pan,  add  som^ 
minced  shallots  and  grated  lemon  rind,  bak«» 
till  shallots  are  brown,  then  add  some  flour  an^ 
stir  it  with  the  residue  in  the  pan  from  th* 
roasting,  moisten  with  stock  to  the  proper  con* 
sistency  of  sauce,  then  add  some  mushroom 
catsup,  cayenne,  claret  wine  and  lemon  juice, 
boil  up,  strain  and  skim.  Used  with  roast  veal 
and  poultry. 

HARD  SAUCE — One  pound  of  powdered  sugar 
and  eleven  ounces  of  good  butter  worked  to- 
gether till  creamy.  Some  add  grated  nutmeg. 
Used  with  plum  pudding. 

HAVRAISE  SAUCE— Make  a  good  butter  sauce 
with  strong  broth  from  boiled  fish,  then  beat 
in  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream.  Good  for 
all  plain  fish  boiled. 

HOLLANDAISE  SAUCE— One  cupful  each  of 
white  vinegar  and  butter,  a  half  cup  of  lemon 
juice,  two  cupfuls  of  chicken  stock,  little  salt 
and  cayenne,  boil,  then  pour  it,  beating  the 
while,  to  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  till  thick  like 
custard.  Used  with  boiled  sea  bass,  boiled  cod- 
fish and  haddock,  fillets  of  codfish,  boiled  eels, 
boiled  plaice  and  flounders,  boiled  halibut, 
boiled  kingfish,  boiled  perch,  boiled  rockfish, 
boiled  salmon,  boiled  sheephead,  boiled  weak- 
fish,  boiled  sturgeon,  boiled  whitefish,  cauli- 
flower, asparagus. 

HORSERADISH  SAUCE— Fresh  grated  horse- 
radish boiled  in  white  stock,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  nutmeg,  then  is  worked  in  a  liaison 
of  egg  yolks  and  tarragon  vinegar.  MUST 
NOT  BOIL  after  liaison  is  added.  Used  with 
boiled  beef,  broiled  steaks  .  .  .  Another  form 
for  roast  beef  is  to  add  the  grated  root  to 
thickened  and  strained  roast  beef  gravy,  add- 
ing a  little  Worcestershire  sauce  .  .  .  Again, 
for  cold  roast  beef,  simply  grated  horseradish 
seasoned  with  salt  and  white  vinegar.  Some 
add  to  this  a  little  cream  sauce. 
INDIENNE  SAUCE— Braise  together  some  ham 
trimmings,  a  few  anchovies,  onions,  green 
apples,   thyme  and  whole  peppers,  then  add 


i6o 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


curry  powder  to  taste,  fill  up  with  Vfelout^ 
sauce,  boil,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon  and  a  few 
beaten  yolks,  beat  till  creamy,  then  strain  for 
use  with  pork  chops,  pork  tenderloin,  fried  veal 
chops  and  cutlets,  fried  tripe,  fried  chicken, 
roast  veal,  fried  calf's  head,  fried  sweetbreads 
and  lamb  fries,  cannelons  of  ox  palates,  fried 
pigs  feet,  fried  saddles  of  rabbit. 

ITALIAN  SAUCE,  WHITE— Into  a  VMoutSs 
sauce,  work  some  minced  and  fried  shallots  and 
mushrooms,  chopped  parsley  and  white  wine. 
For  ITALIAN  SAUCE,  BROWN,  substitute 
Espagnole  for  V&loutfe,  and  Madeira  for  the 
white  wine.  Used  with  calf's  head,  boiled 
calf's  tongue,  broiled  calf's  liver,  fried  pigs 
feet,  attereaux  of  rabbit,  broiled  tripe,  stuffed 
turkey  legs,  saute^d  artichokes,  braised  black 
game  and  grouse,  fried  calf's  feet,  capilotade 
of  chicken,  boiled  chicken,  boudins  of  salmon, 
saute^d  fillets  of  haddock,  fried  larks,  rice  and 
reed  birds,  roast  pheasant,  croquettes  of  rabbit, 
chicken  and  turkey,  fried  skate,  boiled  trout, 
fillets  of  turbot  and  halibut,  scallops  of  veal 
&nd  ham,  breaded  pork  tenderloin. 

JARDINIERE  SAUCE— Take  a  small  column 
cutter  and  cut  out  columns  of  carrots,  white 
and  yellow  turnips;  slice  them  quarter  inch 
thick,  add  some  very  small  button  onions;  fry 
all  in  butter  with  a  little  sugar;  when  brown, 
add  a  little  stock  and  simmer  till  done,  then 
drain  them;  when  drained,  place  them  into  a 
rich  Espagnole  sauce,  adding  some  cooked  green 
peas,  finely  cut  stringless  beans  and  very  small 
pieces  of  cauliflower  Used  with  braised  beef- 
boudins  of  partridge, braised  calf's  liver, braised 
capon,  braised  duck,  braised  neck  of  mutton, 
larded  and  roast  leg  of  lamb,  boned  and  braised 
leg  of  mutton,  braised  ox  cheek,  boiled  salted 
ox  tongue,  fricandeau  of  veal,  roast  breast  of 
veal,  boned,  stuffed  and  braised  breast  of  veal 

JOLIE-FILLE  SAUCE— Half  a  pint  of  panada 
two  small  onions  sliced,  two  yolks  of  hard 
boiled  eggs,  one  pound  of  veal  or  poultry  meat, 
all  boiled  with  one  quart  of  V^lout^  sauce; 
when  done,  rub  through  the  tamis,  and  bring 
to  the  sauce  consistency  with  boiling  milk;  fin- 
ish with  a  little  chopped  parsley.  Used  with 
boiled  chicken,  boiled  capon,  boiled  turkey, 
sweetbreads,  croquettes  of  veal,  fowl,  turkey, 
sweetbreads,  Iamb,  and  boudins  of  white  meat. 

LIVOURNAISE  SAUCE-Into  a  mayonnaise 
work  some  pounded  anchovies  and  chopped 
parsley.     Used  with  cold  fish. 

LIVERNAISE  SAUCE— Out  of  carrots,  white 
and  yellow  turnips,  scoop  very  small  balls 
steam  them  till  barely  done,  then  drain,  and 
fry  with  a  little  butter  and  sugar  to  glaze  them; 
then  add  them  to  equal  parts  of  Espagnole  and 
tomato  sauces;  simmer  till  done.  Used  with 
sauted  cutlets  of  veal,  mutton,  fricandeaus  of 


veal,  braised  legs  and  saddles  of  mutton,  fillets 
of  beef,  braised  fowls  and  capon. 

LYONNAISE  SAUCE-Into  a  combined  sauce 
of  two-thirds  tomato  and  one-third  Espagnole, 
add  rings  of  onions  that  have  been  lightly  fried 
with  butter  and  then  drained.  Used  with  sau- 
t^ed  fillets  of  fowls,  broiled  pork  cutlets,  roast 
leg  or  sparerib  of  pork,  saut^ed  legs  or  saddles 
of  rabbit. 

LOBSTER  SAUCE-Into  a  butter  sauce  work 
some  lobster  roe,  pieces  of  lobster  meat,  lemon 
juice  and  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Used  with  cro- 
quettes of  lobster,  boiled  haddock,  cod,  pike, 
whitefish,  pickerel,  plaice,  saut6  of  red  snap- 
per, lobster  cutlets,  croquettes  of  shad  roe. 

MADEIRA  SAUCE— Powdered  sugar,  Madeira 
wine,  yolks  of  eggs  and  grated  lemon  rind 
beaten  together  over  fire  till  thick.  Used  with 
puddings  and  sweet  entrees. 

MADEIRA  SAUCE— Equal  quantities  of  Espag- 
nole and  tomato  sauces  well  flavored  with 
Madeira  wine.  Used  with  steaks,  cutlets,  ten- 
loin  of  beef,  broiled  liver,  fried  chicken,  broiled 
calf  kidneys,  braised  fillets  of  hare,  partridge, 
roast  pigeon,  roast  prairie  chicken,  brochette 
or  epigramme  of  rabbit,  cutlets,  croquettes  and 
rissoles  of  rabbit,  glazed  sweetbreads,  broiled 
turtle  steaks,  braised  turtle  fins,  broiled  veal 
cutlets,  kromeskies  of  veal,  broiled  venison 
steak. 

MAITRE  D'HOTEL  Sauce— Into  melted  butter 
add  lemon  juice,  chopped  parsley  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg.  Used  with  broiled  steaks,  fried 
calf  brains,  broiled  boneless  pigs  feet,  broiled 
snipe,  broiled  sweetbreads,  brochette  of  fowl 
and  turkey,  broiled  woodcock  and  partridge, 
artichoke  bottoms,  broiled  soft  shell  crabs, 
broiled  frog  legs,  broiled  lobster,  broiled  fresh 
mushrooms,  broiled  oysters;  broiled  fish  such 
as  sea  bass,  blackfish,  fillets  of  striped  bass, 
bluefish,  Cisco,  haddock,  finnan  haddie,  hali- 
but, herring,  kingfish,  Spanish  mackerel,  fresh 
mackerel,  salt  mackerel,  gray  mullet,  fillets  of 
pike  and  pickerel,  smelts,  salmon  trout,  brook 
trout  and  whitefish,  shad. 

MATELOTE  SAUCE-Into  a  butter  sauce  work 
some  boiled  button  onions,  scalded  mussels  and 
oysters,  a  flavor  of  garlic,  essence  of  anchovies, 
lemon  juice  and  a  dash  of  cayenne.  Used  with 
boiled  carp,  crimped  codfish,  conger  eel,  skate, 
sturgeon,  bluefish,  baked  codfish  and  boiled 
red  snapper. 

MATELOTE  SAUCE— Equal  quantities  of  veal 
broth  and  white  wine,  some  tarragon,  parsley, 
bay  leaves,  pepper  and  salt;  boil  ten  minutes, 
add  a  little  V^loutfe  sauce  and  strain.  Used 
with  veal  entries,  roast  veal  and  boiled  calf 
brains. 

MAINTENON  SAUCE— Braise  some  ham  trim- 
mings,   chopped   shallots,    parsley   and  mush- 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


l6i 


rooms  with  a  little  sugar  and  lemon  jaice;  take 
out  the  ham,  add  some  V^lout^  sauce,  reduce, 
finish  with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks,  then  strain. 
Used  with  croquettes  of  white  fleshed  meats 
and  fowls,  boudins  of  white  meat,  etc.,  and  for 
heating  pieces  of  cooked  white  meat,  etc.,  for 
developing  into  entries. 

MAYONNAISE  SAUCE— Take  raw  yolks  of 
eggs,  beat  in  a  little  olive  oil;  when  it  becomes 
like  butter,  add  some  salt,  then  a  little  more 
oil,  then  dry  mustard  and  cayenne;  then  alter- 
nately oil,  vinegar  and  lemon  juice,  till  thick 
enough  to  spread.  Used  with  salads,  cold  fish, 
and  with  aspic  jelly  to  make  aspic  mayonnaise. 

MILANAISE  SAUCE— Into  equal  quantities  of 
Vfeloutfe  and  Supreme  sauces,  work  some  Par- 
mesan cheese.  Used  with  boiled  capon,  calf's 
sweetbreads,  boiled  chicken,  boiled  leg  of 
lamb,  breaded  mutton  and  veal  cutlets,  quen- 
elles and  boudins. 

MINT  SAUCE— Finely  chopped  green  mint  and 
a  little  grated  orange  rind  placed  in  a  tureen, 
vinegar  brought  to  the  boil  with  enough  sugar 
to  take  off  the  rawness;  poured  to  the  chopped 
mint,  etc. ;  served  with  roast  lamb. 

MUSHROOM  SAUCE  (WHITE)— Into  a  VM- 
outfe  or  Bechamel  sauce  work  a  pur^e  of  mush- 
rooms, and  some  sliced  button  mushrooms  that 
have  been  lightly  fried  with  butter;  season  with 
lemon  juice  and  cayenne.  Used  with  boiled 
chicken,  capon,  pheasant,  partridge,  sweet- 
breads, legs  and  saddles  of  rabbits,  turkey 
wings,  croquettes  and  rissoles  of  poultry,  sweet- 
breads, veal,  etc. 

MUSHROOM  SAUCE  (BROWN)— Into  equal 
quantities  oi  Espagnole  and  tomato  sauces, 
work  in  some  mushroom  pur^e  and  sliced  but- 
ton mushrooms  that  have  been  fried  with  but- 
ter; a  little  chopped  parsley,  lemon  juice  and 
Madeira  wine.  Used  with  roast  fillet  of  beef, 
braised  sirloin  of  beef,  broiled  steaks,  braised 
ox  and  calf  tongues,  scallops  of  calf's  liver, 
braised  veal,  braised  fowls,  broiled  pigeons  and 
young  rabbits,  cromeskies  of  sweetbreads, 
broiled  sweetbreads,  broiled  tripe,  braised 
turkey  legs,  roulade  of  veal,  stuffed  shoulder  of 
veal,  fricandeau  of  veal,  venison  chops,  broiled 
veal  chops  and  cutlets,  broiled  chicken.  Ham- 
burgher  and  Vienna  steaks,  braised  ox  heart, 
stuffed  calf's  and  sheep  hearts. , 

NANTAISE  SAUCE-Into  a  white  Ravigote  sauce, 
work  in  some  pounded  lobster  and  coral.  Used 
with  fillets  of  fish  such  as  soles,  pompano, 
kingfish,  bass,  pickerel,  red  snapper,  trout, 
whitefish,  also  with  carp  and  shad  roes. 

NAPOLITAINE  SAUCE— Into  some  Espagnole, 
work  a  little  currant  jelly,  seedless  raisins 
and  port  wine.  Used  with  braised  capon, braised 
sweetbreads,  braised  fresh  ox  tongue,  braised 
venison,  braised  turtle  fins. 


NEAPOLITAN  SAUCE— Braise  some  vegetables 
and  bacon  with  garden  herbs;  when  done,  add 
equal  quantities  of  Espagnole  and  tomato 
sauces,  some  game  glaze  and  Madeira  wine, 
simmer  twenty  minutes  and  then  strain.  Used 
with  braised  game  chiefly. 

NEAPOLITAN  SAUCE— Into  a  good  Espagnole, 
work  some  currant  jelly,  grated  horseradish, 
grated  ham,  port  wine  and  Harvey  sauce. 
Used  with  braised  meat. 

NICEOISE  SAUCE— Into  some  cold  Vhlouth 
sauce  work  a  liaison  of  hard  boiled  yolks  of 
eggs  rubbed  through  a  sieve  and  mixed  with 
oil  vinegar,  mustard,  chopped  chives  and  pars- 
ley.    This  is  a  good  cold  sauce  for  cold  meats. 

NORMANDE  SAUCE— Equal  quantities  of 
court-bouillon  and  scalded  oyster  liquor  thick- 
ened lightly  with  roux,  then  with  a  liaison  of 
egg  yolks  and  cream.  Use  with  eels,  filleted 
sole,  plaice,  trout,  pike,  pickerel,  whitefish, 
halibut 

NONPAREIL  SAUCE— Into  a  HoUandaise  sauce 
work  some  sliced  fried  button  mushrooms, 
minced  truffles,  lobster  coral,  lobster  butter  and 
some  slices  of  hard  boiled  whites  of  eggs.  Used 
with  boiled  white  flesh  fish 

ONION  SAUCE,  WHITE  AND  BROWN— Into 
a  B^hamel  sauce  simmer  minced  onions  till 
tender.  Into  equal  quantities  of  Madeira  and 
Espagnole  sauces  simmer  till  tender  some 
minced  fried  onions.  The  white  is  generally 
used  with  boiled  mutton,  and  the  brown  with 
roast  and  braised  mutton. 

ORANGE  SAUCE— Into  a  brown  poultry  thick- 
ened and  strained  gravy,  simmer  till  tender 
some  shredded  orange  peel  and  finish  with  the 
juice  of  an  orange.  Used  with  roast  and  braised 
dacks. 

OYSTER  SAUCE-Into  a  sauce  Poulette,  work 
some  scalded  and  cut  up  oysters,  also  some  of 
the  scalded  and  strained  oyster  liquor.  Used 
with  boiled  white  flesh  fish,  boiled  capon, 
boiled  chicken  and  boiled  turkey. 

PARSLEY  SAUCE— Into  a  butter  sauce,  work 
some  chopped  parsley.  Used  with  plain  boiled 
fish,  boiled  chicken,  calf's  head;  dipping  cut- 
lets of  meat  and  fowl  in  before  breading;  also 
for  mixing  in  with  foods  in  preparing  various 
entries. 

PASCALINE  SAUCE— Take  some  thin  white 
Italian  sauce  and  raw  egg  yolks  with  the  juice 
of  a  lemon,  simmer  till  creamy,  strain,  add 
some  chopped  and  blanched  parsley.  Used 
with  boiled  poultry,  sweetbreads,  for  reheating 
entries  of  the  same,  calf's  head,  calf  brains, 
pigs  feet,  turkey  wings,  grenadins  of  veal. 

PERIGUEUX  SAUCE-Into  a  Madeira  sauce 
work  some  minced  and  fried  shallots,  a  little 
meat  glaze,  anchovy  butter,  sliced  truffles  and 


X62 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


Madeira  wine.  Used  with  fillets  of  beef,  sweet- 
breads, croquettes  of  poultry  and  game,  stuffed 
pheasant  legs,  quenelles  of  turtle,  cromeskies 
of  veal,  braised  small  game  birds,  roast  black 
game,  boudins  of  poultry,  carp  stewed  in  wine 
and  drained,  fried  fillets  of  hare  and  rabbit, 
roast  turkey,  roast  pheasant,  larded  and  roasted 
pork,  veal  cutlets,  filleted  woodcock. 

PIQUANTE  SAUCE— Minced  pickles,  shallots, 
olives,  capers,  a  spoonful  each  of  lemon  juice 
and  caper  vinegar,  mixed  into  a  Madeira  sauce, 
simmered  for  a  few  minutes  and  served  with 
boiled  beef,  pigs  feet,  calf's  head,  boiled 
tongue,  calf's  liver,  carbonade  of  mutton,  fried 
or  broiled  young  pigeons,  pork  chops  and  pork 
tenderloin,  braised  venison,  venison  rissoles, 
broiled  and  fried  tripe,  antelope,  bear,  veni- 
son and  buffalo  steaks. 

PORTUGUESE  SAUCE— Reduce  with  half  a 
pint  of  sherry  wine,  a  bay  leaf,  thyme,  mace, 
peppercorns,  cloves,  for  ten  minutes,  then  add 
half  a  pint  of  Espagnole  and  half  that  quantity 
of  consomm^;  let  the  whole  boil  slowly  till  of 
the  required  consistency,  skim,  then  strain  and 
use  with  braised  fillet  of  beef. 

POIVRADE  SAUCE— Fry  together  with  butter 
of  a  light  brown  color  a  diced  carrot,  diced 
onion  and  a  head  of  celery,  a  slice  of  lean  ham 
diced,  some  thyme,  parsley,  blade  of  mace,  bay 
leaf,  and  a  few  bruised  peppercorns;  then 
moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  sherry  and  the  same 
of  white  vinegar.  Reduce  to  half  its  volume, 
then  add  a  ladle  of  Espagnole  and  a  little  con- 
somm^;  boil  up,  skim,  strain,  and  use  with 
braised  mutton,  braised  roebuck,  cannelons  of 
ox-palates,  saut^  of  rabbits  and  hares,  roast 
young  rabbit,  broiled  legs  and  saddles  of  rab- 
bit; legs  and  saddles  of  cooked  rabbit,  cooled, 
then  breaded  and  fried;  larded  fillets  of  veni- 
son, venison  chops  and  braised  venison. 

Another  way  of  making  POIVRADE  SAUCE 
is  to  take  equal  quantities  of  Espagnole  and 
tomato  sauces,  work  in  some  minced  shallots,  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  bay  leaves,  a  tablespoon  of 
white  popper  to  each  quart,  along  with  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vin- 
egar; reduce  to  half  its  volume,  strain,  then 
finish  with  a  little  Harvey  sauce,  port  wine  and 
red  currant  jelly. 

POLONAISE  SAUCE— Make  a  sauce  with  veal 
broth  and  boil  in  it  some  grated  horseradise, 
juice  of  a  lemon,  chopped  fennel  or  parsley 
leaves  and  a  little  sugar;  season  with  salt  and 
nutmeg,  strain  and  use  with  roast  veal. 

PAPILLOTE  SAUCE— Fry  together  for  five 
minutes  slowly  a  slice  of  bacon  scraped,  two 
scraped  onions  and  two  cloves  of  garlic,  and 
some  minced  mushrooms,  then  moisten  with  a 
quart  of  Madeira  sauce,  boil  up,  finish  with 
chopped  parsley.      Used  with  cutlets  of  food 


that  are  first  saut^ed,  cooled,  dipped  in  sauce, 
then  placed  in  cutlet  papers  and  slowly  broiled, 
such  as  salmon  cutlets,  mutton  cutlets,  part- 
ridge cutlets,  halves  of  boned  squabs,  cutlets  of 
veal. 

POULETTE  SAUCE— Make  a  white  sauce  with 
strong  chicken  broth,  then  work  in  a  liaison  of 
egg  yolks  and  cream;  strain,  finish  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  some  chopped  parsley. 
Used  with  artichoke  bottoms,  blanquette  of 
lamb  fries  and  lamb  sweetbreads,  boudins  of 
poultry,  boiled  capon,  boiled  chicken,  boiled 
turkey,  entree  of  calf  or  lamb  tails,  inch  lengths 
of  stewed  cucumbers,  eels  that  have  been 
stewed  with  a  little  wine,  lamb's  feet  simmered 
in  white  broth  till  tender,  scallops  of  sweet- 
breads, scallops  of  veal,  boiled  calf's  head, 
stewed  pig's  feet,  stewed  turtle  fins,  stewed 
breast  of  veal,  lamb  and  mutton. 

PROVENCALE  SAUCE— Four  hard  boiled  egg 
yolks,  four  anchovies,  a  spoonful  of  capers,  a 
little  chopped  tarragon,  parsley,  chervil,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  a  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  a 
wine  glass  of  olive  oil  and  half  of  vinegar. 
Pound  the  whole,  then  rub  through  a  tamis; 
finish  with  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  lemon 
juice.  Used  with  broiled  eels,  but  mostly  with 
fish  salads. 

PROVENCALE  SAUCE— Stew  together  for  five 
minutes,  four  bruised  cloves  of  garlic,  some 
thyme,  parsley  stalks,  spoonful  of  capers,  bay 
leaf,  and  the  pulp  of  a  lemon  with  a  little  olive 
oil;  then  moisten  with  a  ladle  of  espagnole,  add 
a  pinch  of  pepper  and  a  piece  of  glaze.  Let 
the  whole  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
then  rub  through  the  tamis;  finish  with  a  little 
anchovy  butter.  Used  with  roast  fillet  of 
beef,  calf's  brains  fried  in  batter,  carp  stewed 
in  white  wine,  braised  ducks,  braised  leg  of 
mutton;  braised  cutlets  of  mutton,  cooled,  then 
spread  with  a  stufiBng  on  one  side  only,  re- 
heated and  served;  braised  boned  ox  cheek, 
salmis  of  partridge,  scallops  of  sweetbreads, 
scallops  of  veal. 

PROVENCALE  SAUCE— Into  some  espagnolt 
work  some  minced  fried  mushrooms,  onions, 
tomatoes  and  a  clove  of  garlic.  Used  with 
braised  beef. 

RAVIGOTE  SAUCE— Into  a  Vfeloutfe  sauce  work 
a  pur^e  of  parsley  and  tarragon  leaves,  some 
minced  fried  shallots  and  a  little  white  vine- 
gar. Used  with  calf  brains,  ox  piths  fried  in 
batter,  roast  partridge,  skinned  perch  boiled  in 
white  wine,  fillets  of  turbot,  fillets  of  halibut 
and  other  white  fieshed  fish. 

RAVIGOTE  SAUCE— Into  a  mayonnaise  work 
a  pur^e  of  chives,  chervil,  parsley,  tarragon 
and  shallots.  Used  with  cold  meat  and  meat 
salads. 

RAVIGOTE  SAUCE— Take  a  small  teacup  and 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


163 


pat  in  a  third  each  of  tarragon  vinegar,  chili 
vinegar  and  Harvey  sauce;  pour  the  cupful 
thus  obtained  into  a  small  sautoir  and  boil  it 
down  to  half  the  quantity,  then  add  half  a  pint 
of  butter  sauce  and  a  ladlespoon  of  mixed 
chopped  chives,  chervil,  parsley  and  tarragon. 
Used  with  boiled  poultry  and  fillets  of  fish. 
REGENCY  SAUCE— Braise  some  ham  trim- 
mings, shallots  and  onions,  then  add  equal 
quantities  of  chicken  glaze,  espagnole  and  to- 


lightly  fried  grated  ham,  minced  shallots  and 
garden  herbs.  Used  with  boiled  beef  and 
tongues.  .  .  (3)  Made  mustard,  tarragon  vine^ 
gar,  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  and  grated  horseradish 
stirred  together.  Used  with  cold  meat. 
SAGE  SAUCE— Good  for  roast  pork  and  goose. 
Make  a  brown  gravy  in  the  pan  with  the  resi- 
due of  the  roasting,  add  some  chopped  sage 
leaves,  simmer  for  15  minutes,  then  strain  and 
skim. 


mato  sauces,  boil  slowly  for  twenty  minutes    STE  MENEHOULD   SAUCE— Make  a  cream 


then  strain  and  use  with  braised  meat,  game 
and  poultry. 

REGENCY  SAUCE — Cut  an  eel  of  a  pound 
weight  into  thin  slices  and  boil  gently  with  a 
pint  of  claret,  adding  cloves,  mace,  thyme,  bay 
leaf,  carrot,  mushrooms,  an  onion  and  a  little 
salt,  for  half  an  hour,  then  rub  the  whole 
through  a  tamis.  Put  the  essence  then  into  a 
sautoir  and  add  a  ladleful  of  espagnole;  boil, 
skim,  finish  by  working  in  some  essence  of 
truffles,  anchovy  butter,  nutmeg,  lemon  juice 
and  a  knob  of  sugar.  This  sauce  is  admirably 
adapted  for  every  sort  of  colored  fleshed  fish. 

RAIFORT  SAUCE— Into  a  Vfeloutfe  sauce  work 
grated  horseradish  and  a  little  white  vin- 


sauce  and  boil  in  it  some  minced  onions  till 
tender,  strain,  then  add  some  chopped  parsley 
and  minced  mushrooms,  simmer  for  ten  min- 
utes, skim,  then  use  with  boiled  pigs'  feet, 
boiled  calf's  head  and  feet,  calf's  brains  and 
ears,  salt  pigs'  head,  ox  piths  and  ox  palates. 

SCALLOP  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter  sauce, 
work  some  cut  cooked  scallops  and  their 
strained  and  skimmed  liquor.  Used  with  plain 
boiled  fish. 

SHALLOT  SAUCE— Into  a  sauce  made  from 
the  residue  of  roasting  poultry,  game  or  suck- 
ling pig,  work  some  butter  and  minced  shallots 
that  have  been  stewed  in  sherry  wine,  and  use 
with  the  meats  mentioned, 
egar.     Used  with  fresh  boiled  beef,  salt  beef   SICILIAN  SAUCE— Take  some  veal  stock  and 


and  fresh  boiled  ox  tongues;  also  some  like  it 
with  steaks. 

REMOULADE  SAUCE— Pounded  hard  boiled 
yolks  of  eggs  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  mixed 
with  olive  oil,  vinegar,  dry  mustard,  minced 
garlic,  chopped  parsley  and  parsley  juice. 
Used  with  frog  legs,  cold  meat  and  meat  salads. 

REFORM  SAUCE  —  Another  form  or  name  of 
Poivrade  sauce,  (which  see). 

RICHELIEU  SAUCE— Into  a  white  game  sauce, 
work  some  minced  fried  onions  and  a  little 
white  wine.     Used  with  game  birds. 

ROE  SAUCE — Into  a  butter  sauce,  work  apur^e 
of  fish  roes,  using  the  soft  roe  or  milt.  Used 
with  plain  boiled  fish. 

ROYAL  SAUCE— Into  a  V^loutfe  sauce,  work  a 
pur^e  of  chicken  and  bread  panada;  finish  with 
a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream.  Used  with 
boiled  capon,  boiled  chicken,  sweetbreads, 
boiled  turkey,  boiled  partridge,  pheasant, 
cushion  of  veal. 

ROBERT  SAUCE— Minced  fried  onions,  dry 
mustard,  a  little  meat  glaze  and  white  wine 
mixed  into  espagnole  or  other  brown  sauce. 
Used  with  roast  pork,  broiled  or  fried  pork 
tenderloins,  pork  chops,  and  many  entries  of 
pork. 

RUSSIAN  SAUCE— Into  a  Vfeloutfe  sauce  work 
some  grated   horseradish   and    vinegar,    then 


boil  in  it  a  ham  knuckle,  a  head  of  celery,  a 
clove  of  crushed  garlic,  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  a 
few  cloves  and  crushed  coriander  seeds  with  a 
bay  leaf;  reduce  to  one  half,  add  a  little  roux 
and  white  wine,  strain,  skim,  and  use  with 
roast  or  boiled  poultry. 

SHRIMP  SAUCE— Into  a  good  butter  sauce, 
work  some  cut  shrimps,  lemon  juice,  cayenne 
pepper  and  anchovy  essence.  Used  with 
boiled  fish,  fish  croquettes,  and  many  fish 
entries. 

SORREL  SAUCE — Into  a  Vfelout^  sauce  work  a 
pur^e  of  sorrel.     Used  with  boiled  beef. 

SOUBISE  SAUCE — Boiled  onion  pulp  worked 
into  a  Supreme  sauce.  Used  with  boiled  mut- 
ton .  .  .  roast  and  braised  black  game  and 
grouse  .  .  .  boudins  of  poultry  .  .  .  braised  legs 
and  necks  of  mutton  .  .  .  larded  and  braised 
pheasants  and  partridges  .  .  .  larded  and  roast 
neck  of  pork  .  .  .  larded  and  braised  sweet- 
breads. 

SUPREME  SAUCE— Make  a  rich  VMout^  sauce 
with  reduced  chicken  liquor,  then  finish  with 
pure  cteam.  Used  with  delicate  ent^es  such 
as  boudins  of  breasts  of  chicken,  lamb  sweet- 
breads, and  delicate  white  fleshed  fish  .  .  . 
saut^ed  fillets  of  chicken,  garnished  with  scal- 
lops of  tongue  .  .  .  boiled  capon  .  .  .  boiled 
prairie  hen  .  .  .  sweetbread  and  chicken  pat- 
ties, and  vol-au-vents. 


work  ia  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream.  .  .  (2) 

Into  a  Vfeloutfe  sauce  work  some  grated  horie-    SULTANA  SAUCE — Into  a  good  game  sauce, 

radish,  vinegar,  sugar,  white  wine,  then  some       work  some  seedless  raisins,  simmer  till  tender. 


164 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


finish  with  port  wine  and  use  with  roast  game 
in  general. 

TART  ARE  SAUCE— Into  a  mayonnaise  sauce 
work  some  finely  chopped  parsley,  gherkins, 
chives,  capers  and  shallots.  Used  with  breaded 
and  fried  fillets  of  chicken  and  capon  .  .  .  frog 
legs  .  .  .  sweetbreads  .  .  .  eels  cut  in  finger 
lengths  .  .  .  broiled  salmon  steak  .  .  .  fried  calf 
brains  .  .  .  fried  tripe  .  .  .  fried  butter  fish. 

TOULOUSE  SAUCE— One  pint  of  Hollandaise 
sauce,  half  cup  of  white  wine,  half  cup  of 
minced  mushrooms,  little  chicken  glaze,  mix 
together,  then  bring  to  the  simmer,  without 
breaking  or  curdling.  Used  with  boiled  and 
stewed  poultry  .  .  .  sweetbreads. 

TOMATO  SAUCE— Take  equal  quantities  of 
good  stock  and  tomatoes,  a  veal  and  a  ham 
shank,  a  few  herbs,  sliced  vegetables,  and  bay 
leaves;  two  or  three  cloves  of  garlic  are  option- 
al; boil  all  till  vegetables  are  done,  thicken  with 
roux,  strain,  add  a  little  sugar.  Used  with 
broiled  steaks,  chops,  veal  and  pork  chops, 
pork  tenderloin  .  .  .  fried  sweetbreads  and  lamb 
fries  .  .  .  broiled  calf  kidneys  .  .  .  fried  chicken 
breaded  or  in  batter  .  .  .  epigramme  of  sweet- 
breads .  .  .  quenelles  of  turkey  , .  .  grenadins 
of  veal  .  .  .  fried  or  broiled  tripe  .  .  .  ham- 
burger steaks  .  .  .  fried  or  broiled  pigs'  feet .  .  . 
fried  ciscoes  .  .  .  codfish  steaks  .  .  .  fried  had- 
dock and  halibut  .  .  .  filleted  pike  and  muskal- 
longe  .  .  .  fried  smelts  .  .  .  broiled  weakfish, 
whitefish  and  trout  .  .  .  broiled  and  fried  oys- 
ters .  .  .  venison  chops  and  steaks,  etc.  etc., 
and  is  used  in  conjunction  with  other  sauces. 

TORTUE  OR  TURTLE  SAUCE— Equal  parts 
of  tomato  and  espagnole  sauces,  into  which 
work  some  sliced  mushrooms,  garden  herbs 
and  sherry  wine,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  a 
lemon,  and  a  few  minced  shallots.  Used  with 
calf's  head. 

TRIANON  SAUCE— Equal  parts  of  Bearnaise 
and  reduced  tomato  sauces  carefully  blended 
together.  Used  with  broiled  steaks,  sweet- 
breads, calf  brains,  etc. 

VELOUTE  SAUCE — Into  some  strong  chicken 
and  veal  broth  boil  a  small  piece  of  pickled 
pork,  a  small  bunch  of  garden  herbs,  a  few  car- 
rots and  onions,  a  little  salt,  sugar  and  pepper, 
simmer  slowly  till  the  pork  and  vegetables  are 
done,  then  thicken  with  white  roux;  simmer 
gently,  taking  off  the  fat  and  scum  as  it  rises 
till  of  a  smooth  velvet  appearance;  then  strain 
through  a  hair  sieve.  It  is  used  as  a  basis  for 
other  sauces. 

VENITIENNE  SAUCE— Court-bouillon  thick- 
ened with  white  roux,  simmered  and  skimmed; 
add  chopped  parsley  and  lemon  juice;  finish 
with  a  liaison  of  egg  yolks  and  cream.  Used 
with  boiled  fish. 

VERJUICE  SAUCE— Boil  some  green  grapes  in 


espagnole  till  soft,  then  strain.  Used  with 
roast  ducks. 

VERTE-PRE  SAUCE— Into  a  V^loutfe  or  white 
ravigote  sauce  work  a  pur^e  of  chives,  spinach 
and  tarracon  leaves.     Used  with  boiled  eels. 

VINAIGRETTE  SAUCE— Minced  shallots, 
chopped  parsley,  oil,  vinegar  and  a  little  salt 
and  cayenne  carefully  blended  together  and 
used  with  cold  pigs'  feet  and  pickled  lamb 
tongues. 

YORKSHIRE  SAUCE— Into  some  espagnole, 
work  a  little  currant  jelly,  port  wine,  orange 
juice  and  finely  shredded  boiled  orange  pesl. 
Used  with  roast  ham. 

SAUERKRAUT— A  preparation  of  cabbage  (see 
cabbage). 

SCALLOPS— A  broad  flat  shelled  fish,  white  in 
color,  with  pink  gills.  Used  in  many  ways  as 
oysters;  such  as  "saut^ed  ",  "scalloped",  "fried 
in  batter",  "breaded  and  fried",  "baked  and 
served  on  the  half  shell",  "stewed"  and  in  soup. 

SCRAPPLE— Generally  termed  "Philadelphia 
scrapple"  is  pigs'  head  brawn  with  corn  meal 
boiled  together,  then  set  in  blocks,  afterwards 
cut  in  slices  and  fried  for  breakfast  or  supper. 

SEA  KALE — A  vegetable  resembling  in  appear- 
ance a  head  of  celery.  It  is  cooked  in  lengths 
like  asparagus,  boiled  and  served  with  butter, 
Hollandaise  or  Espagnole  sauces;  also  after  be- 
ing boiled  and  cooled,  is  cut  up  and  mixed 
with  endive  and  lettuce  and  used  as  a  salad  with 
French  dressing. 

SEMOLINA — Name  given  to  a  preparation  of 
wheat  like  Farina.  It  is  used  in  the  making  of 
puddings;  as  a  soup  and  sauce  thickening;  also 
mixed  with  pressed  bread  in  the  preparation  of 
sausages,  as  it  takes  up  more  fat  and  water. 

SHAD — Name  of  one  of  our  best  fish.  To  be 
broiled  it  should  be  split,  back  and  rib  bones 
removed,  seasoned  with  olive  oil,  salt  and  pep- 
per, then  placed  between  the  wire  hinged 
broiler,  cooked  over  a  medium  fire,  served  with 
mditre  d'hotel  butter,  and  garnished  with  pars- 
ley and  quartered  lemon. 

PLANKED  SHAD— The  fish  cleaned,  split, 
bones  removed,  made  fast  to  the  plank,  cooked 
under  a  salamander  or  in  a  quick  oven;  served 
on  the  plank,  with  miitre  d'hotel  butter. 

BAKED  SHAD — Take  a  full  sized  shad,  clean 
trim,  score  the  sides,  wipe  dry,  then  season 
with  salt;  place  them  in  a  buttered  pan  and 
cover  the  fish  with  small  pieces  of  butter;  put 
in  a  medium  oven  and  cook  for  fifteen  minutes, 
then  pour  over  the  fish  a  small  ladle  of  stock, 
some  tabasco  sauce  and  a  cupful  of  cream;  re- 
turn to  oven  and  bake  till  nicely  done;  then  lift 
the  fish  on  to  the  serving  platter,  garnish  with 
miitre  d'hotel  potatoes,  pour  the  strained  and 
skimmed  sauce  over  the  fish  and  serve. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


BOILED   SHAD— Clean,    trim    and    score    the 
sides  of  the  fish,  place  on   the  drainer  of  fish 


165 

SHORTBREAD— A  name  given  to  a  sort  of  cake, 
much  used  by  the  Scotch  people. 


kettle,  cover  the  fish  with  boiling  water,  add  a    SHRIMP— Name  of  a  thin  shelled  fish,  used  gen- 


little  salt,  simmer  till  done  (about  thirty  min- 
utes), lift,  drain;  serve  with  either  caper  or  lob- 
ster sauce,  and  garnish  with  small  boiled  pota- 
toes. 
FRIED  SHAD— Fillet  the  fish  into  serving  por- 


erally  after  being  boiled,  trimmed  and  shelled; 
always  to  be  had  in  cans.  The  Barataria  shrimp 
in  cans  are  as  good  as  can  be  purchased.  Made 
into  salads,  sauces,  omelets,  patties,  bouche^s, 
croquettes,  in  the  preparation  of  appetizers, etc. 


tions,   season  with  salt  and   pepper,   dip  into    SMELT— Name  of  a  small  delicate  fish  which 


beaten  eggs  containing  flour  enough  to  make  a 
soft  batter,  then  fry  a  delicate  golden  color  in 
deep  fat;  drain;  serve  with  chips  and  lemon. 

BAKED  STUFFED  SHAD— Scale  and  trim  the 
fish,  split  down  the  belly  and  withdraw  the 
bones;  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  stuff  with 
forcemeat  made  of  a  pound  of  whitefish 
pounded  in  the  mortar  with  half  a  pound  of 
soaked  and  squeezed  dry  bread,  quarter  pound 
of  butter,  four  yolks  of  raw  eggs,  juice  of  a 
lemon,  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  When  stuffed,  sew  up  the  opening, 
score  the  sides,  place  in  buttered  pan,  brush 
over  with  melted  butter,  bake  till  done;  serve 
whole  or  in  portions  with  mditre  d'hotel  sauce 
and  a  garnish  of  fancy  potatoes. 

SHAD  ROE— Keep  the  roes  whole,  lay  them  in 
cold  water  for  an  hour,  trim,  wipe  dry;  then 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  flour,  fry  in 
lard;  serve  with  chip  potatoes,  a  slice  of  bacon, 
and  quartered  lemon  .  .  .  Also  boiled  and  served 
with  cream  sauce  and  garnished  with  Hollan- 
daise  potatoes  .  .  .  Breaded  whole  if  small,  or 
blanched,  split,  then  breaded  and  fried;  served 
with  Parisienne  potatoes,  lemon  and  parsley.  .  . 
Broiled  and  served  with  bacon,  garnished  with 
Julienne  potatoes  and  lemon  .  .  .  Made  into  cro- 
quettes and  served  with  lobster  sauce  .  .  .  Also 
blanched,  mixed  with  HoUandaise  sauce  and 
scalloped. 

SHADDOCK— A  dessert  fruit  from  the  West 
Indies  (see  grape  fruit). 

SHALLOT — Name  of  a  small  onion,  very  mild 
in  flavor.  Used  in  the  preparation  of  delicate 
sauces  and  soups. 

SHEEPSHEAD— Name  of  one  of  our  seafish,  so 
called  on  account  of  the  shape  of  its  mouth  be- 
ing like  that  of  a  sheep;  also  its  having  two 
similar  rows  of  teeth.  It  is  boiled  and  served 
with  caper  sauce  and  garnished  with  HoUan- 
daise potatoes  .  .  .  Baked  and  served  with  pi- 
quante  sauce,  garnished  with  Parisienne  pota- 
toes .  .  .  Broiled  and  served  with  Venitienne 
butter,  garnished  with  Saratoga  chips  .  .  .  Sau- 
te^d  and  served  with  brown  Italian  sauce, 
garnished  with  Duchesse  potatoes  .  .  .  Braised 
and  served  with  Creole  sauce,  garnished  with 
small  potato  croquettes. 

SHERRY- Name  of  a  Spanish  wine.  Used  with 
dinner  service,  in  making  cobblers,  jellies, 
sauces,  etc. 


has  the  flavor  of  cucumbers.  To  be  cooked  is 
drawn  from  the  gills,  seasoned  with  salt,  rolled 
in  flour  and  saute^d  with  butter,  or  breaded 
and  fried  .  .  .  Broiled;  or  run  on  skewers  and 
broiled. 

SNIPE — A  small  game  bird;  may  be  roasted, 
broiled,  fried,  made  into  boudins,  pies,  galan- 
tines, salmis. 

SOLES— Name  of  a  delicate  flat  fish.  As  there 
are  few  to  be  had  in  the  United  States  the 
flounder  and  plaice  is  substituted.  For  recipes 
of  cooking,  see  Flounder. 

SORREL — Name  of  a  vegetable.  Used  in  soups, 
sauces;  served  plain  or  mixed  with  spinach  as  a 
vegetable;  pureed  as  spinach,  and  used  as  an 
accompaniment  to  veal,  pork,  fried  sweet- 
breads, brains,  etc. 

SOUFFLE — Name  given  to  a  very  light  pasty 
preparation  of  meats,  or  sweets;  of  the  omelet 
order. 

SOUPS — See  heading  of  any  meat,  etc.,  wanted; 
also  "consommes". 

SPAGHETTI— An  Italian  solid  paste  like  maca- 
roni. Used  in  every  way  like  macaroni;  for 
recipes  of  which,  see  "Macaroni". 

SPINACH — A  vegetable  good  for  the  stomach, 
because  not  only  its  own  properties  are  ab- 
sorbed but  the  life  sustaining  qualities  of  that 
with  which  it  is  prepared:  for  spinach  from 
Greenwhich  plain  boiled  and  eaten  as  a  greens 
may  be  all  right;  but  to  those  who  live  at 
hotels,  clubs,  etc.,  it  is  prepared  as  a  pure^, 
richly  endowed  with  cream,  butter,  gravies, 
etc.,  well  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and  NUT- 
MEG; and  when  used  either  as  a  vegetable, 
garniture,  in  an  omelet,  or  as  an  accompani- 
ment to  roast  or  boiied  ham,  it  is  good. 

SQUAB— Name  given  to  a  young  pigeon.  For 
recipes,  see  "Pigeon". 

SQUASH  —  A  vegetable  of  the  melon  order, 
peeled,  cut  in  pieces,  plain  boiled  or  mashed, 
then  served  as  a  vegetable;  cut  in  slices  and 
baked  or  steamed,  then  the  pulp  removed, 
mashed  and  used  instead  of  pumpkin  for  pies. 

SQUIRREL— Either  the  red,  gray  or  black,  may 
be  practically  used  in  all  the  ways  of  spring 
chickens;  and  are  relished  too. 

STILTON — Name  of  a  prime  English  cheese 
(see  "Cheese"). 


i66 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


STRAWBERRIES  —  One  of  the  choice  table 
fruits  eaten  with  cream  and  sugar;  crushed  and 
mixed  into  ices;  made  into  tarts  and  pies,  jel- 
lies, shortcakes,  meringues,  charlottes,  etc. 
STURGEON— Name  of  a  large  fish  that  is  sold 
skinned  as  catfish  are.    Used  baked  and  served 
with  Remoulade  sauce  .  .  .  larded  as  a  frican- 
deau  and  served  with  bacon   and   mushroom 
sauce  .  .  .  braised  with  herbs  and  vegetables 
and  served  with   the  strained  and  skimmed 
braise  .  .  .  broiled  in  steaks  and  served  with 
piquante  sauce  .  .  .  stuffed,   baked  and  served 
with  Bourgignotte  sauce  .  .  .  boiled  and  served 
with  Genevoise  and  Hollandaise  sauces. 
STERLET — Name  given  to  the  young  sturgeon. 
SUCCOTASH— Name  given  to  a  combination  of 
cooked  corn  and  lima  beans.       Used  as  a  vege- 
table. 
SWEETBREADS— The  name  given  to  two  suc- 
culent pieces  of  flesh  of  the  calf,  ox  and  sheep, 
that  adhere  to  the  throat  and  heart.     Before 
using  in  the  preparation  of  dishes,    they  must 
first  be  blanched,  trimmed  and  skinned. 
SWEETBREADS  WITH  SPINACH— Lard  the 
sweetbreads  with  seasoned  strips  of  pork,  ar- 
range them  in  a  brasiere  with  bacon,  herbs, 
vegetables  and  stock;   when  done,    take  out; 
serve  on  a  bed  of  spinach  pure^,  with   the 
strained  and  skimmed  braise  poured  over  them. 
SCALLOPED  SWEETBREADS— Sweetbreads 
and  button  mushrooms  cut  into  dice,  saute^d 
with  butter,    surplus  butter  then  poured  off, 
moistened  with  Vfeloutfe  sauce,  filled  into  scal- 
lop shells  or  dishes;  sifted  breadcrumbs  and  a 
little  Parmesan  cheese  strewn  on  top;  baked  a 
delicate  brown  and  served. 
FRICASSEE  OF    SWEETBREADS  —  Sweet- 
breads cut  in  even  sized  pieces;  button  mush- 
rooms saute^d,  added  to  the  sweetbreads;  moist- 
ened with  V^lout^  sauce,    simmered;   served 
within  a  fancy  piped  border  of  mashed  potatoes. 
FRIED  SWEETBREADS,  COLBERT  SAUCE 
— The  sweetbreads  split,    seasoned   with  salt 
and  pepper,  dipped  in  butter,  then  in  beaten 
eggs  and  sifted  BREAD  crumbs,   fried  a  deli- 
cate brown  with  butter;  served  on  fancy  toast 
with  Colbert  sauce. 
BRAISED   SWEETBREADS    WITH    VEGE- 
TABLES—The  sweetbreads  larded,    braised 
with   herbs,   vegetables  and   stock,    taken  up 
when  done,  the  braise  strained  and  skimmed; 
then  used  to  moisten  a  macedoine  or  jardiniere 
of  vegetables;  served,  the  sweetbreads  on  fancy 
toast,  the  vegetables  around. 
FRIED  STUFFED  SWEETBREADS— Split  the 
sweetbreads,  then  spread  it  on  both  sides  with 
a  D'Uxelles  sauce  containing  minced  mush- 
rooms and  onions,  then  double  bread  and  fry; 
serve  with   a   rich    brown    sauce    containing 
sherry  wine. 


CASSEROLE  OF  SWEETBREADS— Line  the 
casserole  with  boiled  rice,  arrange  the  interior 
with  lamb  sweetbreads  in  fricassee,  bake  and 
serve  in  the  casserole. 
CROUSTADES   OF  SWEETBREADS  —  Into 
the  fancy  croustade  cases  (now  to  be  purchased 
by  the  dozen  or  barrel),  serve  the  fricassee  of 
sweetbreads  above. 
BLANQUETTE  OF  SWEETBREADS  —  Slice 
the  sweetbreads  into  even   slices   with  corre- 
sponding slices  of  truffles,  moisten  with  a  su- 
preme sauce;  served  within  a  border  of  well 
cooked  rice  grains. 
EPIGRAMME   OF   SWEETBREADS  —  Lard, 
braise   and  glaze  one  half  of  the  quantity  of 
sweetbreads   required,    the    other  half   to   be 
breaded  and  fried  a  golden  color;  place  one  of 
each  against   fancy  toast;  serve  with  tomato 
sauce. 
CURRY  OF  SWEETBREADS  —  Beef  sweet- 
breads are  as  good  as  any  for  this.     Take  the 
breads,  soak  for  two  hours  in  warm  water,  boil 
till  tender,  clean  and  trim  them,  then  press  be- 
tween plates  till  cold;  slice  them  and  fry  with 
butter  a  golden  color;   then  fry  sliced  onions, 
add  flour   to  form  a  roux,    moisten  with  the 
strained  and  skimmed  stock  the  sweeetbreads 
were  boiled  in,  add  curry  powder  to  taste,  sim- 
mer, skim;  serve  within  a  border  of  well  boiled 
grains  of  rice. 
SWEETBREADS    WITH    KIDNEYS  —  Take 
large  veal  sweetbreads,  blanch,  cool,  press  and 
trim  them,  then  lard  them  with  strips  of  truffles. 
Beat  to  a  froth  .he  whites  of  three  eggs,  into 
it  then  mix  some  finely  chopped  pistachio  nuts; 
roll  the  truffled  sweetbreads  in  the  egg,  then  in- 
sert in  buttered  paper  cases,  bake  till  of  a  nice 
color,  remove  the  paper,  place  the  sweetbread 
on  a  circle  of  buttered  toast,  then  flank  it  wi^h 
broiled  lamb  or  sheep  kidneys,  and  serve  with 
port  wine  sauce. 
MEDALLIONS    OF    SWEETBREAD  —  Take 
smooth  skinned  tomatoes,  cut  them  in  halves, 
place  cut  side  down  in  baking  pan  and  dry  them 
down  in  a  medium  oven;  then  place  a  slice  of 
sweetbread  in  each  half,  put  the  two  halves  to- 
gether, pin  them  with  a  toothpick,  then  bread 
and  fry  them,  drain,  remove  the  pick;  serve  on 
circles  of  toast  and  Supreme  sauce. 
LARDED    SWEETBREADS,   TOULOUSE 
GARNISH— Take  veal  sweetbreads,  lard  them 
with  seasoned  strips  of  bacon,  braise  till  done 
and  glazy  with  herbs,  vegetables  and  stock; 
serve  on  circles  of  toast  with  Toulouse  garnish 
around,  (see  Garnishes). 
CROQUETTES  OF  SWEETBREADS  — Take 
the  trimmings  of  sweetbreads  and  some  boiled 
sweetbreads  from  the  ox,  cut  them  up  very  fine, 
adding  some  minced  mushrooms  and  shallots, 
then  boil  them  down  thick  with  Vfeloutfe  sauce. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


(a  little  chopped  parsley  may  be  added  if  de- 
sired) tarn  out  into  a  buttered  pan,  smooth, 
cover  with  a  sheet  of  battered  paper  and  set 
away  to  get  thoroaghly  cold;  then  make  ap  into 
croqaettes,  or  form  into  small  catlets,  bread, 
fry  and  serve  with  a  white  Italian  sauce,  or 
garnish  with  peas  in  a  Vfeloutfe  sauce,  or  with 
some  fiageolet  beans  in  a  Madeira  sauce.  .  . 
KROMESKIES  OF  SWEETBREADS  are 
made  of  the  croquette  mixture  shaped  like  a 
core,  then  rolled  round  with  thin  slices  of  boiled 
bacon,  dipped  in  batter  and  fried.  .  .  RIS- 
SOLES OF  SWEETBREADS  are  made  from 
the  croquette  mixture  shaped  like  a  finger,  then 
enclosed  with  a  thin  piece  of  pie  paste  and  fried. 

BROILED  SWEETBREADS  —  Prepare  and 
trim  the  sweetbreads,  then  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  rou  in  melted  butter,  then  in  flour,  and 
broil  a  delicate  brown;  serve  on  toast  with  or 
without  a  strip  of  bacon  and  some  m^itre  d'hd- 
tel  sauce. 

ROAST  SWEETBREADS  — Prepare  and  trim 
veal  sweetbreads,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
roll  in  melted  butter,  then  in  flour,  place  in  a 
buttered  baking  pan,  roast  gently  till  of  a  deli- 
cate color,  then  serve  on  a  circle  of  buttered 
toast  with  Supreme  or  Madeira  sauces. 

PATTIES  OF  SWEETBREADS— Take  the  pre- 
pared veal  sweetbreads  and  cut  them  into  small 
dice,  adding  a  small  quantity  of  iced  and  fried 
button  mushrooms,  moisten  them  with  either 
V^lout^,  Italian  or  Madeira  sauces,  simmer, 
then  fill  into  patty  cases  .  .  .VOL-AU-VENTS 
are  the  same  thing  but  much  larger.  .  .  BOU- 
CHERS are  the  same  thing  but  smaller  than 
the  patty  case. 

SALPICON  OF  SWEETBREADS— Take  the 
prepared  veal  sweetbreads  and  cut  them  into 
medium-sized  dice,  adding  also  the  tops  of  small 
button  mushrooms,  small  diced  pieces  of  cooked 
red  tongue,  and  some  small  diced  truffles; 
moisten  the  whole  with  a  white  Italian  sauce, 
simmer,  then  serve  in  fancy  cases. 

BROCHETTE  OF  SWEETBREADS  —  Take 
the  prepared  veal  sweetbreads  and  slice  them 
into  squares  or  circles  with  an  equal  number 
of  -slices  of  parboiled  bacon,  run  them  on  a 
skewer  alternately,  with  a  button  mushroom; 
season  with  salt,  pepper  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon, 
then  dip  in  beaten  eggs,  then  roll  in  sifted 
breadcrumbs,  and  fry  a  delicate  brown  in  but- 
ter;  serve  with  Italian  sauce. 

FRIED  SWEETBREADS— Take  the  prepared 
veal  sweetbreads  and  cut  them  into  slices,  sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper,  roll  in  flour,  then  fry 
a  delicate  brown  with  butter;  take  up  and 
moisten  with  a  little  Madeira  sauce,  just  enough 
to  keep  them  hot  in  the  bain-marie;  place  within 
a  border  of  veal  forcemeat  piped  on  the  dish 


167 

with  a  bag  and  tube,  then  pour  Perigueox  sauce 
over  the  sweetbreads  and  serve. 

SCRAMBLED  SWEETBREADS  WITH  EGGS 
— Take  all  the  trimmings  of  the  sweetbreads 
which  may  have  accumulated  from  the  two  or 
three  previous  days,  cut  them  into  small  neat 
pieces,  then  scramble  them  with  eggs,  after- 
ward moistening  them  with  white  Italian  sauce; 
serve  on  buttered  toast. 

SWEETBREADS  WITH  BROWN  BUTTER— 
Slices  of  the  prepared  veal  sweetbreads  fried 
a  golden  brown  with  plenty  of  good  butter; 
taken  up  and  laid  on  toast,  the  batter  then 
frothed  up  and  seasoned  with  lemon  juice,  or 
tarragon  vinegar,  browned  well,  and  poared 
over  the  sweetbreads. 

SWEETBREAD  SOUP- -Mince  some  ham  and 
onions,  blanch  and  slice  some  sweetbreads,  add 
a  bunch  of  herbs  and  saut6  the  whole  gently 
with  butter  for  an  hour,  add  flour  to  form  a 
paste,  then  rub  the  whole  through  the  tamis, 
make  hot  again  and  bring  to  the  soup  consist- 
ency with  a  combined  veal  and  chicken  broth, 
season  with  salt,  white  pepper,  a  little  sugar; 
serve  with  crodtons. 

TAPIOCA— A  form  of  starch  obtained  from  the 
root  of  a  plant;  used  in  the  making  of  puddings 
and  jellies;  also  in  soups  and  custards. 

TARRAGON— An  aromatic  herb;  used  in  soups, 
sauces,  and  as  a  flavoring  to  vinegar. 

TARTARIC  ACID  — A  powder  obtained  from 
cream  of  tartar;  used  in  conjunction  with  it  to 
form  baking  powder. 

TEAL— Name  of  the  duck  next  best  to  the  can- 
vas back;  delicious  when  broiled,  roasted  or  in  a 
salmis. 

TERR  APIN— Name  of  the  most  costly  of  the  tor- 
toise family,  having  to-be  purchased  by  the  inch, 
the  diamond  back  being  the  best.  To  kill  it, 
plunge  into  boiling  water  and  let  it  remain 
there  with  the  lid  on  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
take  it  out  and  peel  the  skin  off  the  back  and  re- 
move the  nails  from  the  claws;  remove  the  un- 
der shell  by  cutting  with  a  sharp  knife  where  it 
joins  the  upper  one,  then  remove  the  sand  bag 
and  gall  bladder;  save  the  blood,  and  remove 
all  the  meat  and  eggs;  cut  off  the  head  and  use 
it  and  the  shell  for  soups;  keep  the  meat, 
eggs  and  the  green  fat  found  at  the  shoulders  in 
water  till  wanted  for  use. 

BAKED  TERRAPIN— Take  the  terrapin  meat, 
eggs  and  fat,  put  into  the  upper  shell,  moisten 
with  a  little  Madeira  sauce,  add  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  butter,  a  glass 
of  Madeira  wine;  cover  with  a  sheet  of  buttered 
paper,  bake  till  done  and  serve  in  the  shell. 

TERRAPIN,  MARYLAND  STYLE— Terrapin 
meat  simmered  in  butter  with  the  liquor  ob- 
tained from  the  catting  up;  flour  added  to  form 
a  roux,  then  moistened  with  boiling  cream,  till 


58  THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK, 

like  a  fricassee;  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and    SALMON  TROUT   SAUTfe — Cut  the  fish  into 


mace;  finish  by  adding  the  eggs,  simmer,  then 
add  sherry  wine. 
TOMATOES— One  of  the  best  of  the  vegetable 
fruits.     Used  in  making  pies,  preserves,  soups, 
sauces,  salads,  as  a  vegetable,  baked  and  stufied  as 
a  garnish;  used  as  an  accompaniment  to  steaks 
when  broiled,  as  a  pickle,  and  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  piccalili,  as  an  ingredient  to  chutney; 
and  used  by  the  cook  in  more  ways  than  any 
other  fruit  vegetable  known. 
TRIFLE— Name  given  to  a  combination  of  sponge 
cake,  sherry  wine,  preserves,  custard,  and  whip- 
ped cream. 
TRIPE— The  first  stomach  of  the  ox.     Used  after 
being  prepared  by  the  butchers.     It  is  easily  di- 
gested,   contains  good   nutrients.     It   may  be 
broiled  and  served  with  melted  butter  .  .  ,  Fried 
either  after  breading,  or  dipping  in  fritter  bat- 
ter and  served  with  fried  onions  or  with  a  pur^e 
of  onions  in  either  brown  or  white  sauce  .  .  . 
Stewed  plain  with  onions  in  white  sauce  .  .  . 
Stewed  with  tomatoes,  a  clove  of  garlic,    red 
peppers,  olive  oil,  Worcestershire  sauce,  sliced 
onions  and  meat  gravy.  This  is  called  '  'in  CRE- 
OLE style"  .  .  .Stewed  in  Espagnole  sauce  with 
an  addition  of  fried  onions  .  .  .  Stewed  down 
rich  in  tomato  sauce  .  .  .    Stewed  in  a  sauce 
Poulette  and  served  with  toast  .  .   .  Baked  in  a 
rich  white  onion  sauce  .  .  .  Grilled  and  served 
with  tartar  sauce  .  .  .  Curried  and  served  with 
fancy  crolltons  .   .   .  Made  into  a  fricassee  by 
stewing  in  a  sauce  VMoutfe  .  .  .  Laid  out  in 
lengths,  the  inside  spread  with  sausage  meat, 
rolled  up  into  cannelons,  baked  and  basted  with 
tomato  sauce;  served  with  some  of  the  sauce 
and  garnished  with  sausage  balls  .  .  .  Saut^ed 
and   served  with  Bordelaise  sauce  .  .  .  Sim- 
mered down  till  nearly  dry  with  a  little  white 
broth,  chopped  parsley,  and  strips  of  lean  ham, 
then  moistened  with  a  sauce  Toulouse,  finished 
with  a  few  gherkins  finely  minced. 
TROUT— One  of  the  most  delicate  flavored  fish, 
LAKE  TROUT,  SALMON  TROUT  and  the 
BROOK  TROUT.     The  delicate  brook   trout 
is  either  broiled  or  fried,  and  served  with  a 
mSitre  d'hotel  sauce    .    .    .    The  lake  and  sal- 
mon trout  may  be  cut  in  steaks  and  broiled; 
served   with  a  Hollandaise  sauce  .  .  .  Cut  in 
steaks  and  fried,  served  with  a  slice  of  bacon; 
garnish  with  fancy  potatoes  .  .  .  Boiled  and 
served  with  Anchovy  sauce   .   .   .  Baked  and 
served  with  Italian  sauce. 
BAKED  SALMON  TROUT— Scale  and  cleanse 
the  fish,  score  the  sides  where  the  portion  is  to 
be  cut,  rub  the  scores  with  mixed  salt,  pepper 
and  ground  herbs,  lay  in  buttered  pan,  bake 
and  baste  with  butter  and  court-bouillon;  when 
done,  lift  off  gently  on  to  the  steam  table;  serve 
in  portions  with  either  Genevoise  or  Espagnole 
sauces,  garnish  with  small  potato  croquettes. 


steaks,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.     Fry  some 
slices  of  bacon  a  delicate  brown,  then  roll  the 
fish  in  flour  and  fry  in  the  bacon  fat  till  of  a 
golden  brown;  take  up,  aid  flour  to  the  pan, 
stir,  moisten  with  boiling  fish  broth,  add  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  tomato  catchup, 
strain  over  the  fish  in  a  clean  sautoir,  simmer 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  serve  with  some  of  the 
sauce  and  a  strip  of  the  bacon  on  the  top. 
BAKED    STUFFED    TROUT— Take   the   lake 
trout,  trim  and  scale  it,  stuff  with  a  fish  force- 
meat, sew  up  the  belly,  score  the  sides  in  por- 
tion cuts,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  brush 
with  butter,  dredge  with  flour,  place  in  a  but- 
tered pan,  bake  and  baste  till  done;  serve  with 
an  anchovied  Espagnole  sauce,  garnish  with 
Duchesse  potatoes. 
BROILED  SALMON  TROUT— Take  the  whole 
sides  freed  from  bones,  moisten  with  olive  oil, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with  flour, 
broil  well  done  over  a  clear  fire;  serve  in  por- 
tions with  miitre  d'hotel  butter,  garnish  with 
Parisenne  potatoes,  lemon  and  parsley. 
SALMON    TROUT    BAKED    WITH    TOMA- 
TOES—Take  the  sides  of  fish  freed  from  bones, 
season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dust  with  paprika, 
dredge  with  flour,  arrange  in  a  buttered  baking 
pan,  cover  with  canned  tomatoes,  add  a  minced 
green  pepper,  bake  and  baste  till  done;  serve 
with  the  tomatoes,  and  garnish  with  Victoria 
potatoes. 
FILLETED  TROUT  FRIED,  WITH  BACON— 
Take  the  sides  of  salmon  trout  freed  from  bone, 
cut  them  into  portion  pieces,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  have  ready  some  frying  oil,  very 
hot.     Make  a  batter  of  beaten  eggs  and  a  very 
little  flour,  dip  the  fillets  in  the  batter,  fry  in 
the  oil;  serve  with  a  strip  of  bacon  on  the  fish, 
garnish  with  Saratoga  chips,  lemon  and  parsley. 
TROUT    STEAK,    SAUCE    TRIANON— Take 
the  centre  cut  steaks  of  salmon  trout,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  moisten  with  olive  oil, 
dredge  with  flour,  broil  over  a  clear  fire,  bast- 
ing with  butter;  serve   with   a  sauce  Trianon 
poured  around. 
LAKE  TROUT  FRIED,  TOMATO   SAUCE— 
Scale  and  trim  the  trout,  cut  in  steaks,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with  flour,  fry  in 
bacon  fat  to  a  golden  color;   serve  with  tomato 
sauce  poured  around.     Or  may  be  served  with  a 
strip  of  bacon,  garnished  with  Reitz  potatoes. 
BOILED  TROUT,  SHRIMP  SAUCE— Lake  or 
Salmon  trout,  scaled  and  trimmed,  scored  in 
portion  cuts,  placed  on  the  drainer  of  fish  ket- 
tle, covered  with  cold  water  containing  a  bunch 
of    garden  herbs,    a  little    salt    and  vinegar, 
brought   to  the  boil,   skimmed,   simmered  till 
done,  lifted  up  and  drained;  served  with  shrimp 
sauce,  garnished  with  Hollandaise  potatoes. 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


169 


pAKED  TROUT  STEAKS— Take  the  lake  trout, 
soale  and  trim,  cut  in  steaks,  arrange  in  but- 
tered pan,  cover  with  Allemande  sauce,  bake 
gently  till  done;  serve  garnished  with  Villa- 
geoise  potatoes. 

BRAISED  TROUT,  MATELOTE— Scale  and 
trim  the  fish,  score  the  sides  in  portion  cutsi 
braise  with  bacon,  herbs,  and  fish  broth;  when 
done,  take  up,  strain  and  skim  the  braise,  glaze 
the  portions  with  it;  serve  garnished  with  a 
Matelote. 

BROOK  TROUT  WITH  QUENELLES-Clean 
and  trim  the  fish,  stuff  with  a  fish  farce,  ar- 
range in  a  well  buttered  pan,  season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  add  a  few  mixed  herbs  and  a  glass 
of  white  wine  with  a  little  fish  broth;  bake 
about  fifteen  minutes,  well  basting  with  the 
liquor;  then  take  up,  strain  the  residue  into 
some  Espagnole  sauce,  boil  up  and  skim;  then 
add  sliced  trufiles  and  mushroom,  some 
blanched  oysters  and  a  little  lobster  coral;  serve 
with  the  oysters  as  a  garnish  and  the  sauce 
poured  over. 

BROILED  BROOK  TROUT— Scale  and  trim 
the  fish;  draw  it  through  the  gills,  then  stuff  it 
through  the  mouth  with  butter  mixed  with 
finely  minced  sweet  herbs,  slightly  score  the 
sides,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  pass  the 
fish  through  either  melted  butter  or  olive  oil; 
broil  gently  without  breaking  the  skin;  serve 
with  Poivrade  sauce. 

TRUFFLES— Name  of  an  aromatic  tuber.  On 
the  European  continent  are  served  baked, 
boiled,  gratinated,  broiled,  stewed  in  wine, 
etc.  But  on  account  of  their  very  high 
price  in  this  country,  the  cook  uses  them  in 
sauces,  forcemeats,  omelets,  salads  and  turkey 
stufl5ng. 

TUNNY  "THON  MARINE"— As  it  generally 
appears  on  the  bill  of  fare,  under  the  heading 
of  hors  d'ouevrs  or  appetizers,  is  the  name  of  a 
fish  of  the  appearance  and  flavor  of  Spanish 
mackerel.  It  is  generally  imported  in  tins,  pre- 
pared in  olive  oil. 

TURKEY — One  of  the  native  American  poultry 
birds  found  wild  in  Mexico.  And  the  wild  bird 
is  as  superior  to  the  domestic  one  as  the  can- 
vas back  duck  is  to  the  domestic  duck. 

BROILED  SPRING  TURKEY— Plump  young 
birds,  singed,  split  down  the  back,  breast  and 
back  bones  removed,  thigh  bone  snapped,  the 
sides  then  cut  in  halves;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  brush  with  butter  or  olive  oil,  broil  a 
golden  brown;  serve  on  slices  of  buttered  toast 
and  garnish  with  two  roast  mushrooms  on  the 
bird,  flanked  with  slices  of  tomatoes  breaded 
and  fried,  a  little  miitre  d'hotel  butter  sprink- 
led over  the  whole. 

STEWED  SPRING  TURKEY,  SOUTHERN 
STYLE — Take    young    plump    birds    singed. 


drawn  and  washed,  cut  into  joints,  leaving  the 
the  leg  and  wing  bone  a  little  exposed.  Place 
the  pieces  in  a  baking  pan,  season  with  chili 
pepper  and  salt,  sprinkle  with  melted  butter 
and  roast  slowly  till  brown;  then  take  up  into  a 
sautoir,  add  flour,  shake  together,  moisten  with 
chicken  or  turkey  stock,  bring  to  the  boil,  skim, 
then  add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  an  orange, 
simmer  till  the  bird  is  tender.  Take  one  pound 
of  raw  ham  and  one  medium  sized  onion,  cut 
in  small  squares,  fry  them  lightly  with  plenty 
of  butter  in  the  sautoir,  then  add  a  pound  of 
well  washed  rice,  moisten  with  half  a  gallon  of 
chicken  or  turkey  stock,  place  on  the  cover  and 
let  simmer  till  rice  is  well  done.  To  serve: 
place  the  rice  neatly  on  serving  platter,  the 
portion  of  bird  on  the  rice  with  a  croquette 
frill  in  it;  or  on  the  wing  or  leg  bone;  pour 
some  of  the  gravy  over  the  whole  and  flank  the 
rice  with  small  roasted  potatoes. 

BOILED  TURKEY,  OYSTER  SAUCE— Take 
very  large  plump  birds,  singe,  draw,  wash, 
truss  them  with  the  legs  forced  well  into  the 
body,  then  boil  them  with  a  piece  of  salt  pork, 
carrots,  onions  and  celery,  for  about  three 
hours;  take  up,  and  serve  portions  with  plenty 
of  oyster  sauce  poured  over.  A  well  made 
celery  sauce  is  also  very  appropriate. 

ROAST  SPRING  TURKEY,  OYSTER  SAUCE 
— Take  young  plump  birds,  singed,  drawn, 
washed  and  trussed  (not  stuffed).  Roast  about 
an  hour,  well  basting  with  butter.  Serve  in 
portions  with  a  good  brown  oyster  sauce,  (see 
Sauces). 

ROAST  TURKEY,  STUFFED  —Take  plump 
young  birds,  singe,  draw,  wash,  stuff  with  a 
mixture  of  white  bread  soaked  and  squeezed 
dry,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  mixed  herbs, 
melted  butter  and  yolks  of  eggs.  Truss  with 
the  legs  well  into  the  body;  season  the  bird  with 
pepper  and  salt,  roast  for  about  two  hours, wel 
basting  during  roasting;  serve  portions  with  the 
stufiSng  under  the  meat,  and  a  dish  of  cranberry 
sauce  or  jelly  separate  .  .  .  The  turkey  may 
also  be  stuffed  with  mashed  sweet  potatoes  .  .  . 
Again  with  veal  forcemeat  containing  a  liberal 
quantity  of  peeled  boiled  chestnuts,  then  served 
with  chestnut  sauce;  that  is,  with  boiled  chest- 
nuts peeled,  rubbed  through  the  tamis,  and  the 
pur^e  thus  obtained  mixed  into  the  turkey 
gravy  .  .  .  They  may  also  be  stuffed  with  an 
oyster  dressing  and  served  with  a  brown  oyster 
sauce  .  .  .  They  may  also  be  stuffed  with  stewed 
truffles  and  served  with  P^rigu^ux  sauce,  and 
garnished  with  quenelles  of  poultry  .  .  .  Also 
stuffed  with  pork  sausage  meat  in  which  has 
been  mixed  some  boiled  and  peeled  chestnuts, 
and  served  with  a  Chipolata  garnish,  (see 
Garnishes) .  .  .  Also  stuffed  with  veal  forcemeat 
and  served  with  a  Financi^re  garnish.      In 


170 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


England  the  common  way  of  the  people  is  to 
stuff  the  turkey  with  ordinary  dressing  as  given 
above,  and  to  serve  it  with  roast  pork  sausages, 
and  a  slice  of  boiled  salt  leg  of  pork,  always 
handing  round  sticks  of  fine  white  celery. 

BOILED  STUFFED  TURKEY— Take  young 
plump  birds,  singe,  draw,  wash,  stuff  with  veal 
forcemeat;  trussed  with  the  legs  well  into  the 
body;  boil  it  till  tender  with  a  carrot,  onion, 
celery,  and  a  salted  ox  tongue;  serve  with  a 
couple  of  slices  of  ttie  tongue  on  the  bird,  the 
stuffing  underneath,  and  a  sauce  made  from  the 
liquor  it  was  boiled  in  poured  around  ...  It 
may  also  be  stuffed  with  grated  breadcrumbs 
mixed  with  minced  and  boiled  celery,  raw  eggs, 
salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and  served  with  Hol- 
landaise  sauce  ...  Or  with  egg  sauce,  Vfelout^ 
sauce,  parsley  sauce  .  .  .  Also  garnished  with  a 
slice  of  boiled  ham  and  a  spoonful  of  spinach 
pnr^. 

BONED  TURKEY— This  dish  is  always  served 
cold,  either  plain  or  with  aspic  or  in  a  galau' 
tine.  It  is  a  favorite  with  ball  parties,  and 
other  luncheon  or  supper  gatherings.  Take 
two  birds,  one  smaller  than  the  other.  Remove 
the  head,  feet  and  wings,  then  split  the  skin 
down  the  spinal  column;  remove  the  flesh  with- 
out breaking  through  the  skin,  and  leave  the 
carcass  with  entrails  entire.  Lay  the  birds  out 
on  the  table  skin  side  down.  On  the  larger  on 
place  a  column  of  pork  sausage  or  veal  forcee 
meat  down  the  breast  centre;  on  that,  lay  a- 
column  of  cooked  tongue,  and  on  either  side  of 
it  a  smaller  column  of  pickled  belly  of  cooked 
pork.  Season  with  salt,  pepper  and  thyme. 
Remove  the  flesh  from  the  skin  of  the  smaller 
bird  and  place  the  white  meat  over  the  dark  of 
the  stuffed  bird,  and  the  dark  over  the  white 
meat.  Then  draw  the  two  sides  together,  sew 
it  up  into  a  good  shape;  then  sew  it  into  a  cloth 
and  boil  till  tender  (about  two  hours).  Take 
up  and  drain,  then  place  it  between  two 
boards;  put  a  weight  on  top  and  let  become 
thoroughly  cold;  then  remove  the  cloth,  trim 
the  bird,  wipe  clean  with  a  hot  wet  cloth,  glaze 
it  and  cut  portions  to  order.  If  to  place  on  a 
table  whole,  then  decorate  the  glazing  with 
fancy  piped  butter,  and  take  off  the  first  slice 
...  It  may  also  be  roasted  instead  of  being  in 
a  cloth  and  boiled ...  To  make  a  GALANTINE 
OF  TURKEY,  take  the  bird  when  the  cloth  is 
removed,  have  a  galantine  mold  nicely  decor- 
ated with  aspic  jelly  and  fancy  forms  of  green 
peas,  white  and  yolk  of  hard  boiled  egg,  mace- 
doine  of  vegetables;  then  fill  the  mold  with  slices 
of  the  boned  bird,  placing  the  edges  downwards 
(not  one  on  top  of  the  other),  then  fill  up  with 
limpid  aspic.jelly,  allowing  the  jelly  to  get  be- 
tween each  slice  of  turkey,  so  that  in  serving 
there  is  no  cutting  to  be  done,  simply  remov- 
ing the  slice  with  the  jelly  adhering.     When 


serving,  place  at  either  end  of  the  dish  a  small 
quantity  of  aspic  and  currant  jelly. 
BLANQUETTE  OF  TURKEY— Slices  of  cold 
cooked  turkey  freed  from  skin,  a  can  of  good 
button  mushrooms  also  sliced.  Put  the  two 
into  a  rich  Vfeloutfe  sauce,  bring  to  the  simmer, 
skim,  add  juice  of  a  lemon;  served  within  a 
border  of  green  peas,  or  grains  of  rice,  or  finely 
shred  noodles. 

BRAISED  TURKEY— Singe  and  truss  the  bird 
without  stuffing  as  for  roasting;  then  roast, 
quickly  basting  with  butter  to  get  on  a  nice 
brown  color.  Take  up  as  soon  as  browned, 
and  place  it  into  a  deep  sautoir  with  a  few 
slices  of  veal  at  the  bottom;  cover  the  bird  with 
slices  of  fat  bacon,  then  fill  up  with  good  white 
stock;  add  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little  salt, 
then  simmer  till  done;  take  up  the  bird,  reduce 
the  stock  to  half  glaze,  skim,  strain  and  serve 
with  the  bird.  Garnish  with  small  potato  cro- 
quettes. 

STUFFED  YOUNG  TURKEY  LEGS— Cut  off 
the  leg  and  thigh,  thus  making  four  portions 
from  each  bird.  You  can  stuff  the  other  part 
of  the  bird  and  roast  in  the  usual  way,  as 
everybody  wants  a  slice  of  the  breast  .  .  .  Re- 
move the  bone  from  the  leg  cuts,  season  them 
with  salt  and  pepper,  then  stuff  the  opening 
with  a  white  forcemeat  in  which  is  incorpor- 
ated minced  ham,  truffles  and  mushrooms;  roll 
them  into  shape,  sew  the  ends,  wrap  each  one 
in  a  piece  of  bacon,  then  boil  gently  in  white 
stock  till  tender;  take  up  and  cool;  then  remove 
the  sewing;  meantime  reduce  the  stock  till  of  a 
sauce  consistency;  place  the  legs  in  again,  to 
reheat,  then  take  up  and  roll  in  fresh  grated 
breadcrumbs;  place  in  a  buttered  pan,  sprinkle 
with  butter,  place  in  oven  and  get  on  a  good 
color;  serve  on  a  bed  of  boiled  rice  with  the 
sauce  poured  around. 

CREAMED  COLLOPS  OF  TURKEY— Slices 
of  cold  cooked  turkey  freed  from  skin,  cut  into 
neat  thin  slices;  then  place  into  a  Supreme 
sauce  and  simmer  tor  ten  minutes;  serve  on  a 
slice  of  toast,  sprinkle  the  top  with  finely 
minced  truffles  and  lean  ham  mixed  together; 
garnish  the  sides  with  fancy  crodtons  spread 
with  foie-gras  or  liver  paste. 

HASHED  TURKEY  WITH  EGG— For  this 
dish,  buy  a  big  old  gobbler  weighing  twenty 
pounds  or  so,  truss  as  for  boiling,  then  steam  it 
till  tender;  when  cooled,  remove  the  skin,  and 
take  off  every  particle  of  meat,  cut  it  into  very 
small  dice,  moisten  it  with  V^lout^  sauce,  bring 
it  to  the  simmer;  serve  on  buttered  toast  with 
a  poached  egg  on  top. 

TURKEY  CROQUETTES— Take  the  preceding 
recipe,  and  when  brought  to  the  simmer,  work 
in  some  well  boiled  rice,  so  as  to  thoroughly 
stiffen  it;  then  pour  into  a  buttered  pan,  cover 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


171 


Tvith  oiled  paper  and  let  become  cold,  then 
shape  it  into  the  shape  desired;  bread,  fry  and 
serve  with  a  white  Italian  sauce. 
TURKEY  PATTIES  AND  VOL-AU-VENTS— 
Take  the  cold  white  meat  of  cooked  tnrkey,  cat 
it  into  small  dice,  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg, 
then  moisten  it  with  a  rich  cream  sauce  (made 


green  fat  is  served  with  the  soups,  the  white 
and  dark  meat  used  for  entries  and  steaks,  etc. 
The  white  meat  may  be  used  in  all  the  ways 
given  in  the  recipes  for  veal.  The  red  meat  in 
all  the  ways  given  for  beef.  The  fins  are  gen- 
erally stewed  in  any  of  the  ways  applicable  to 
fowl. 


with  cream);  fill  into  patty  or  vol-au-vent  cases   GREEN  TURTLE  SOUP — Place  in  a  large  and 


and  serve. 

SALPICON  OF  TURKEY  — Take  cold  cooked 
turkey  freed  from  skin,  three-fifths;  lean  cooked 
ham,  one-fifth;  trufl9esand  mushrooms  in  equal 
parts  to  make  the  last  fifth;  cut  the  whole  into 
neat  small  dice,  moisten  with  a  Supreme  sauce, 
simmer  for  tea  minutes,  then  serve  in  fancy 
paper  cases. 

CROUSTADES  OF  TURKEY— Take  the  salpi- 
pon  of  the  preceding  recipe  and  fill  into  fancy 
croflstade  cases  and  serve. 

FRICASSEE  OF  TURKEY  WINGS— Take  the 
middle  joints  of  the  wings,  pick  out  all  the  dark 
feathers,  trim  the  edges,  singe  them,  boil  them 
very  slowly  with  a  heart  of  celery,  salt  and  a 
few  blades  of  mace;  when  tender  take  up;  make 
a  good  white  sauce  from  the  boiling  liquor, 
skim  and  strain  it  over  the  wings  in  another  san- 
toir,  then  add  some  good  button  mushrooms  cut 
into  slices,  bring  all  to  the  simmer  and  serve 
with  a  border  of  finely  cut  noodles. 

TURKEY  SALADS  AND  SOUPS  ARE  MADE 
THE  SAME  AS  THE  RECIPES  GIVEN 
WITH  CHICKEN. 

TURNIPS — A  nutritious  vegetable  both  white 
and  yellow;  used  plain  boiled  or  boiled  and 
mashed;  cut  into  shapes  and  used  as  a  garnish; 
or  stewed  in  a  cream  sauce  and  used  either  as  a 
garniture  or  as  a  vegetable;  they  are  very  use- 
ful in  soups.  The  young  green  turnip  tops 
also  make  a  most  excellent  vegetable.  Young 
white  turnips  of  an  even  size  may  be  peeled, 
the  inside  scooped  out,  steamed  till  done,  then 
used  as  a  receptacle  for  green  peas,  etc.,  and 
served  as  a  vegetable,  the  parts  scooped  out  be 
ing  used  next  day  as  a  vegetable;  also  the  tur 


deep  sautoir  half  a  pound  of  butter,  three 
pounds  of  sliced  raw  ham,  the  meat  from  three 
shins  of  beef  and  three  knuckles  of  veal,  two  old 
fowls,  a  dozen  cloves,  four  blades  of  mace,  a 
handful  of  parsley  roots,  a  bouquet  of  parsley 
tied  up  with  shallots,  thyme,  green  onions  and 
two  bay  leaves,  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine  and  a 
gallon  of  good  stock;  boil  this  down  sharply  to 
a  half  glaze,  then  fill  up  with  stock,  adding  the 
turtle  head,  fins,  shell  and  the  coarse  meat, 
turnips,  carrots,  onions  and  a  head  of  celery; 
simmer  for  six  hours,  then  work  in  a  roux  to 
the  consistency  of  thin  sauce,  boil  and  skim  till 
smooth  and  velvety,  then  strain  off  into  another 
sautoir.  .  .  Make  a  pur^e  of  herbs  by  boiling 
together  in  a  quart  of  consomme,  one-third  of 
sweet  basil,  and  the  other  two-thirds  of  herbs 
to  be  used  are  equal  quantities  of  savory, 
thyme  and  marjoram,  a  good  handful  of  parsley, 
a  small  bunch  each  of  spring  onions  and  shal- 
lots, and  some  mushroom  trimmings;  boil  for 
one  hour,  then  rub  all  through  the  tamis;  add 
the  purfee  to  the  soup  with  a  pint  of  Madeira 
wine;  some  of  the  turtle  eggs,  some  forcemeat 
balls  made  from  the  white  turtle  meat,  the 
cooked  green  fat  cut  in  pieces,  and  the  juice  of 
one  lemon  to  each  gallon  of  soup.  For  CLEAR 
TURTLE  SOUP,  proceed  and  finish  in  the 
same  way,  but  instead  of  adding  a  roux  to  the 
stock,  let  it  cool  and  clarify  it  intoaconsomm^. 
A  good  sherry  wine  may  be  used  instead  of 
Madeira. 
VANILLA — The  fruit  or  pod  of  the  vanilla  plant; 
used  as  a  flavoring  to  sauces,  ices,  puddings, 
blanc-manges,  fritters,  creams,  liqueurs,  souf- 
fles, eclairs,  syrups,  caramels,  etc. 


nip  can  be  used  for  a  nice  entree  by  taking   VEAL  ROLL  WITH  TONGUE— This  is  a  de- 


white  turnips  all  of  an  even  size,  peel  them^ 
cut  off  a  lid,  scoop  out  the  inside,  fill  the  space 
withjninced  mutton  (thus  using  up  your  mut-« 
ton  trimmings),  replace  the  lid,  arrange  in  a 
shallow  sautoir,  moisten  with  white  stock  and 
simmer  till  tender;  serve  with  a  good  gravy 
poured  over  them. 
TURTLE— To  kill  it,  hang  it  up  by  the  hind  fins, 
cut  off  the  head  and  let  it  bleed  overnight  into  a 
bucket;  then  lay  it  on  its  back,  cut  off  the  fins, 
then  the  under  shell,  remove  the  entrails  and 
gall;  save  the  eggs  and  green  fat,  the  white 
flesh,  and  the  red  meat,  and  the  fins.  The  shell 
is  then  sawn  into  pieces  and  boiled  with  the 
head  to  make  the  stock  for  turtle  soup;  the 


lightful  cold  dish  for  luncheons,  suppers,  etc. 
Take  a  large  breast  of  veal,  bone  it,  then  place 
in  the  brine  tub  for  two  days;  prick  it  and 
punch  the  air  out  if  it  has  been  blown,  remove 
from  brine  and  wipe  dry,  then  spread  thick  with 
a  layer  of  seasoned  pork  sausage  meat;  on  that 
place  down  the  centre  four  cooked  pickled  pigs 
tongues,  cover  them  with  more  of  the  sausage 
meat,  draw  the  sides  together  and  sew  up  with 
twine,  then  tie  it  in  a  cloth  like  a  roly  poly 
pudding;  boil  for  two  hours  in  white  stock,  take 
up  and  let  cool  in  the  cloth,  then  remove  the 
cloth,  wipe  with  a  hot  cloth,  glaze  and  serve  in 
slices. 
VEAL  CUTLETS,  GARNISHED— Take  the  rib 


172 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


chops,  remove  the  chine  bone  and  gristle,  trim 
the  bone  so  as  to  leave  a  handle  for  a  frill  to  be 
placed  on  when  serving,  lard  the  flesh  with 
strips  of  bacon,  ham,  tongue,  truffle,  or  sweet- 
bread and  truffle  according  to  desire;  then  place 
in  a  brasiere  on  a  bed  of  sliced  root  vegetables, 
parsley,  spring  onions,  cloves,  mace  and  whole 
peppers,  cover  with  slices  of  fat  bacon,  moisten 
to  the  height  of  the  cutlets  with  stock  and  a 
glass  of  sherry  wine,  braise  till  done  (about  an 
hour),  then  serve  with  a  brown  Italian  sauce  . . . 
mushroom  sauce  .  .  .  Financifere,  Toulouse  or 
Pferigufeux  garniture.  These  cutlets  after  being 
braised,  may  be  cooled,  trimmed,  masked  with 
sauce,  then  breadcrumbed  and  fried,  and 
served  with  Allemande  sauce  containing  scal- 
lops of  tongue  and  button  mushrooms ...  Or 
with  tomato  sauce. 

VEAL  CUTLETS  SAUTfiED— Take  the  rib 
chops  and  trim  as  in  the  preceding  recipe. 
Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  fry  a  delicate 
brown  on  both  sides  with  clarified  butter;  when 
nearly  done  take  up  and  in  the  butter  fry  some 
shallots,  mushrooms  and  parsley,  then  add  some 
Espagnole  sauce,  boil  up  and  skim  off  the  fat, 
add  the  cutlets  and  simmer  till  done;  serve 
garnished  with  thin  scallops  of  fried  ham. 

FRICANDEAU  OF  VEAL  WITH  VEGETA- 
BLES—Take  the  leg  of  veal  and  remove  the 
thick  flank,  lard  it  with  seasoned  strips  of 
bacon,  braise  with  carrot,  celery,  onions,  pars- 
ley, green  onions  and  slices  of  bacon  with  mace, 
cloves  and  peppers  in  the  usual  way,  for  about 
two  and  a  half  hours;  when  done,  take  up, 
strain,  boil  and  skim  the  braise,  add  some 
sherry  or  Madeira  wine;  use  it  as  a  sauce  to  the 
fricandeau;  serve  garnished  with  any  vegetable 
garnish  or  pur^e  described  in  this  work.  It 
may  also  be  garnished  with  either  Chipolata, 
Financifere  or  Toulouse  garniture. 

GRENADINS  OF  VEAL  WITH  SPINACH— 
After  removing  the  thick  flank  for  fricandeau 
from  a  leg  of  veal,  you  have  the  buttock  and 
aitchbone  left.  Bone  out  the  aitch  on  the  leg; 
remove  the  marrow  bone,  split  the  buttock  in 
the  natural  seam,  then  slice  the  two  sections 
into  cutlets  or  grenadins,  lard  and  braise  them; 
serve  on  a  bed  of  pur^e  of  spinach  .  ,  .  pur^e 
of  celery  .  .  .  pur^e  of  green  peas 
red  haricot  beans,  etc. 

BLANQUETTE  OF  VEAL— Take  cold  roast 
or  braised  veal,  remove  the  brown  skin,  and 
then  cut  into  neat  scallops,  add  some  button 
mushrooms,  or  scallops  of  truffle  or  tongue, 
moisten  the  whole  with  Allemande  sauce,  sim- 
mer; serve  garnished  with  small  croquettes  of 
rice  ...  or  potatoes  ...  or  veal  forcemeat. 

SCALLOPS  OF  VEAL,  ITALIAN  SAUCE— For 
this  dish  use  up  the  thick  end  of  the  loin,  neck, 
aitchbone,  or  leg;  cut  them  into  neat  shaped 


scallops;  also  about  one-third  of  the  amount 
similar  cut  scallops  of  raw  ham;  fry  them  all  of  a 
delicate  brown  color  with  clarified  butter;  then 
pour  off  the  surplus,  add  some  button  mush- 
rooms, and  brown  Italian  sauce,  simmer  till 
done;  serve  with  the  sauce,  and  garnish  with 
the  mushrooms  .  .  .  Or  they  may  be  served  with 
either  tomato  or  an  Espagnole  sauce  and  garn- 
ished with  quenelles  of  veal  forcemeat. 

EMINCE  OF  VEAL— For  this  dish  use  the  shin 
taken  from  the  shoulder,  also  the  leg  and  the 
trimmings  from  the  neck  and  scrag;  boil  it  in 
seasoned  stock  till  done,  then  allow  to  become 
cold;  cut  it  up  into  small  dice  with  some  mush- 
rooms, ham,  tongue  and  truffles,  then  moisten 
the  whole  with  just  enough  B6chamel  sauce  to 
keep  it  together;  serve  heaped  on  a  slice  of 
toast;  place  a  neatly  poached  and  drained  egg 
on  top. 

CROQUETTES  OF  VEAL— Take  the  parts  of 
the  preceding  recipe,  but  instead  of  cutting 
them  all  into  dice,  run  them  through  the  minc- 
ing machine,  moisten  with  enough  VMoutS 
sauce,  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  thoroughly 
heated  and  stiff;  then  pour  into  a  buttered  pan, 
smooth  with  a  knife,  cover  with  oiled  paper, 
put  away  to  become  cold,  then  form  into  cro- 
quettes or  cutlet  shapes,  bread,  fry  and  serve 
with  either  mushroom,  tomato,  Italian  or  Fhri- 
gufeux  sauces. 

VEAL  AND  OYSTER  PIE— For  this  dish  use 
the  scrag  end  of  the  neck  and  the  middle  neck 
under  the  shoulder,  boil  in  one  piece  in  seas- 
oned white  stock;  when  done,  take  up  and  cool, 
then  cut  into  neat  shaped  pieces,  place  into  the 
pie  dish  with  a  liberal  quantity  of  scalded  oys- 
ters, make  a  good  white  sauce  from  the  stock 
and  oyster  liquor,  season  with  salt  and  nutmeg, 
add  a  little  chopped  parsley;  pour  over  the  con- 
tents of  the  pie  dish,  cover  with  a  good  short 
paste,  glaze  with  egg  wash,  bake  and  serve. 

ROAST  LOIN  OR  NECK  OF  VEAL— Take  the 
loin  or  neck  of  veal,  allowing  the  tops  to  be 
long,  remove  the  bones  and  gristle,  season  with 
salt  and  pepper,  roll  up  and  tie  with  twine, 
roast  gently  without  drying  the  skin  into 
strings;  serve  with  Bfechamel  sauce  and  garnish 
with  small  potato  croquettes. 
.  pur^e  of  CROUSTADE  OF  VEAL— Take  the  blanquette 
of  veal  of  a  preceding  recipe  but  cutting  the 
meat  into  large  dice,  and  serve  in  crodstade 
cases. 

SALPICON  OF  VEAL— Take  the  eminceofveal 
of  a  preceding  recipe  and  serve  it  in  crodstade 
cases,  paper  cases,  or  steamed  and  hollowed 
out  white  turnips. 

BOUDINS  OF  VEAL— TIMBALES  OF  VEAL 
— Take  the  remains  of  cold  veal,  trim  off  the 
skin,  run  it  through  the  mincing  machine  with 
some  cooked  bacon  and  button  mushrooms, 


THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


173 


then  moisten  with  a  very  little  sauce,  thor- 
ou^ly  stir  over  the  fire  till  thick;  butter  some 
timbale  or  boddin  molds,  line  them  with 
browned  bread  crumbs,  fill  in  the  mince,  steam 
them  for  about  twenty  minutes,  then  turn  out 
and  serve  with  mushroom,  tomato,  white  Italian, 
brown  Italian,  P^rigufeux  or  V^lout^  sauces. 
They  may  also  be  garnished  with  finely  shred 
noodles,  green  peas,  mac^doine  or  Jardiniere 
of  vegetables,  button  mushrooms,  etc. 

BROILED  VEAL  CHOPS— Use  either  the  loin 
or  rib  chops,  trim,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg,  brush  with  butter,  broil  and  baste  to  a 
golden  color;  serve  with  miitre  d'hotel,  Col- 
bert, tomato,  or  Madeira  sauces. 

CURRY  OF  VEAL— For  this  dish  use  up  the 
breasts,  cut  them  into  even  sized  pieces,  remov- 
ing the  thick  bones,  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, fry  a  very  light  color  with  clarified  butter; 
take  up  and  into  the  butter  then  fry  a  liberal 
amount  of  thinly  sliced  onions,  add  flour  to  form 
a  roux,  then  the  curry  powder  to  taste,  bring 
to  the  boil  and  skim;  simmer  for  half  an  hour 
till  the  onions  are  well  cooked,  then  rub  through 
the  tamis  on  to  the  pieces  of  breast;  simmer 
then  till  the  meat  is  done;  serve  within  a  border 
of  rice,  rissoto,  macaroni,  spaghetti  or  noodles. 

GALANTINE  OF  VEAL— Take  a  large  breast 
of  veal  and  remove  the  bones,  prick  it  and  punch 
out  the  air  if  it  has  been  blown,  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and  a  little  powdered 
thyme  all  mixed  together,  then  spread  it  with  a 
layer  of  veal  forcemeat;  on  it  lay  a  thinly  beaten 
out  and  skinned  sheet  of  pigs  flare,  down  the 
centre  place  a  column  of  red  cooked  tongue,  on 
either  side  of  it  a  smaller  column  of  cooked 
boiled  salt  pork,  then  sprinkle  over  a  mixture  of 
chopped  whites  and  yolks  of  eggs  with  minced 
pickled  gherkins,  cover  with  another  la>er  of 
veal  forcemeat,  draw  the  sides  together  and 
sew  into  a  neat  roll  with  twine,  then  tie  in  a 
cloth  and  boil  in  white  stock  for  two  and  a  half 
hours,  take  up  and  press  till  cold  in  the  cloth 
between  two  boards,  then  remove  the  cloth, 
wipe  Glean,  glaze;  serve  in  slices  with  croiitons 
of  bright  aspic  jelly. 

STEWED  BREAST  OF  VEAL— Take  the  breast 
of  veal  and  boil  it  whole  till  tender  enough  to 
take  out  the  bones,  then  let  become  cold,  cut 
into  even  sized  pieces  and  stew  it  in  a  sauce 
made  from  the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in;  serve 
with  a  garfiish  of  green  peas,  lima  beans,  chip- 
olata  garniture,  glazed  carrots,  mushrooms, 
forcemeat  balls,  fried  oysters,  cauliflower,  small 
white  turnips,  rice,  mushrooms. 

VENISON— The  flesh  of  the  deer.  The  leg  and 
saddle  are  usually  roasted.     To  roast  the  leg. 


season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  brush  it  all  over 
with  melted  butter,  then  enclose  it  with  a  crust 
made  of  plain  flour  and  water,  bake  it  about  an 
hour,  then  take  up  and  remove  the  crust,  place 
it  in  another  baking  pan  on  a  stand,  pour  in  a 
melted  mixture  of  a  half  pint  each  of  melted 
butter,  red  currant  jelly,  and  boiling  water; 
with  the  residue  of  the  first  pan  it  was  baked 
in,  if  any,  finish  roasting  and  basting  till  done; 
serve  with  the  gravy  from  the  pan  .  .  .  The  sad- 
dle or  double  loin,  is  generally  encased  with 
buttered  paper  instead  of  the  crust  .  .  .  The  rib 
and  loin  chops,  are  generally  broiled  and  served 
with  a  jelly,  piquant,  Colbert,  poivrade,  finan- 
ci^re,  Portugaise  or  Bigarade  sauces,  or  fried, 
or  saut^ed  and  served  with  the  same  sauces  or 
with  a  chestnut  pur^e  .  .  .The  scrag  and  breasts 
are  generally  formed  into  a  stew  or  a  "CIVET 
OF  VENISON."  Made  the  same  way  as  jugged 
hare  (which  see).  .  .  The  shoulder  or  the  whole 
forequarter  may  be  roasted  and  served  with 
poivrade  sauce,  and  red  currant  jelly  sent  to 
table  separately.  The  cold  cooked  parts  left 
over  may  be  made  into  croquettes  and  cutlets 
and  served  with  a  game  sauce  made  from  the 
bones  stewed  down  with  herbs,  and  a  little  jelly 
and  Madeira  wine.  The  rougher  parts  may 
also  be  made  into  pies,  and  the  cutlets  made 
into  a  good  VENISON  PIE  or  patties  or  vol- 
au-vents.  A  good  soup  is  made  from  the  shanks, 
shins  and  head,  boiled  down  rich,  finished  with 
a  little  Espagnole  sauce,  Madeira  wine,  lemon, 
cayenne  pepper;  served  with  game  forcemeat 
balls  and  croiitons. 

VERMICELLI— A  fine  form  of  Italian  paste 
used  in  most  of  the  ways  applicable  to  maca- 
roni and  spaghetti  (which  see). 

VERMOUTH — A  form  of  liquor  cordial;  used  in 
making  mixed  drinks  especially. 

VINEGAR— A  distilled  acid  liquor  of  the  wine 
formation;  used  as  a  flavoring  and  a  condiment. 

VOL-AU-VENT— A  small  hollow  form  of  puff 
pastry,  used  as  a  receptacle  to  viands. 

WAFFLES— A  form  of  batter  cake  pastry  baked 
in  wa£9e  irons  and  eaten  generally  with  powd- 
ered sugar  or  syrup. 

WALNUT— A  hard  shelled  nut,  the  interior  of 
which  is  used  for  dessert,  candies,  etc.  When 
plucked  green  they  are  used  as  a  pickle  after 
going  through  the  pickling  process. 

WHITEFISH — A  delicious  fish  obtained  in  our 
lakes.  It  may  be  cooked  and  served  in  all  the 
ways  applicable  to  our  lake  trout. 

WOODCOCK — A  delicious  game  bird;  cooked 
and  served  in  all  the  ways  of  small  game  birds  de- 
scribed in  this  work. 


INDEX  TO  THE  CULINARY  HANDBOOK. 


▲tMlnth* 

Aeetto  aold 

Page 

....14  65 

1 

Apricot  omelet 

patties  or  yol-as-Tents. . . . 

Page 

4"&156 

Bavarian  cream .TTto 

Musage •.m 

sauce lu 

Bayard  (garnUh) 88 

Bay  leaves 8 

▲old  MMtle 

.   1 

'oltrio     •.               

68 

Sherbet 

tartlsttes 

167 

Admiral  garnlBb 

85 

4 

Afrloaine  (garni  sh)      .      ... 

88 

a  la  eonde  ... 

Raarnnlaa  uRniM                                     IT  A^  1>>& 

155 

with  rloe 

and  rice  fritters    

Albnmen                       

1 

1 

.   .117 

Artichoke  bottoms  braised 

"      corned 10 

bouillon  with  crusts                      18 

Alkerme*            

65 

"          wlthfolegras....    6 
"          with  forcemeat..    4 

"           with  onions 5 

"          with  ragout • 

"          stuffed.  6 

Artichoke  chips 6 

85 

165 

a  la  Baden-Baden 11 

alaBignonne U 

"         a  la  Boargeolse 11 

"         a  la  rinanciere U 

"         alaFlamande 11 

"         ala(iodard 11 

"             a.  In.  Mllnnsilaa                       11 

Alligator  pear  

"     MUd 

Allspice 

.■":.!.;i5o 

1 

1 

1 

deTllsd                    .  . 

omelet  .  . 

. 

g^lted   1 

and  onion  salad 

166 

....lou 

"         a  la  Napolltalne it 

arorsini U 

Alum 

.  .    1 

soup 

Alamettes,  anohoTy 

..  1 

1 

31 

and  tomato  salad 

"         a  la  Provencale 13 

alaKlcheilea 11 

"         German  style 11 

"          with  raviolis U 

Beef,  braised  slrioln  of,  garnished...  11 
"  with  horserad  U 
"            "        "  wlthmushrms  n 
"with  quenelles  11 
"           "        "  with  rice  cro- 
quettes.... 11 
"           "        "  with  sp  veg'ls  11 

bonohee  of         

alaBarigoule 

boiled 

with  olives 

2 

potted 

Aaotaory  aigrettes     

2 

1 

family  style 

au  gratln 

baskets 

2 

butter   

2&  26 

puree  of 

.     .  145 

canapes^. 

1&85 

2 

alaSoublse 

Asparagus 

'.6  4   6 

2 

2 

with  cheese                .... 

potatoes...  18 
"           "        "  with  stuffed 

tomatoes  ..  12 

fritters 

omelet 

naatA 

1&    2 

2 

2 

omelet 

patties  

points  with  quenelles 

Pnree... 

puree  of 

salad    

:::::i45 

.6  4150 

J?i«^ :;;;::.:::::;:::; 

....2&150 

Beef,  brisket  of,  with  vegetables  ....  10 

broth  with  celery la 

"      with  rice                               13 

eandwloh 

■ance   

2 

2&166 

staffing 

tartlnes 

'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.    1 

cakes  with  egg 14 

chipped  in  cream 10 

sauce  Hollandaise 

soup 

stewed 

aspic           .          ... 

collops  with  mushrooms 13 

corned lo 

Andalonse  (garnish)    

85 

166 

Angel  food 

2 

jelly 

mayonnaise 

:::::io7 

curried  with  rice                            14 

2 

cutlets  with  plquante  sauce....  14 

devilled  with  oysters 14 

dried  (smoked)                               10 

Anuine .  .!^'. .  „ : ;::;::::::: 

2 

Attereaux 

Au Jus  

:::::  se 

1S5 

Aolse 

2 

:::.:::::  «i 

.     2 

em ince  of.  with  peas ...  15 

Beef  fillet  of  a  I'Andalouse                13 

Antelope 

Aurore  (g<lml8h) 

ATlgnon  sauce 

Baba 

86 

165 

"       "    alaBayard 13 

"    a  la  Chateaubriand  ..  16 
"       "    a  la  Jardiniere              li 

batter 

2 

2 

"       "    sauee  provencale 18 

"    with  string  beans  ....  13 
"    a  la  Talleyrand 13 

charlotte 

.    3 

coated  oysters,  fried 

Bagratlon   

Balnmarie  

Knklncr  nnwdnr 

122 

8 

3 

4 

3 

3 

cobbler                     .    . 

Beef  frizzled  on  toast                            10 

compote 

BaUotlne 

Beef,  glazed  ribs  of,  with  macaroni..  11 
"          '•      '•    with  potato  cro- 

"     "   with  vegetahies  11 

oroqaettes 

3 

baked                            

compote 

S 

8 

fritters 

dumplings... 

float 

3 

.    3 

salad                             .... 

Florentine 

4 

Baraqullle 

] 

Beef  kidney  saute                                 16 

3&  83 

soup 16 

Beef,  minced,  with  egg 14 

mirotonof,  with  vegetables....  U 

........    3 

3 

Johnny  oake 

Baron  of  beef    

8 

«"•  hiked::::::::::::.:::::::: 

patties  with  mushrooms 14 

pauplettes,  mushroom  sance...  14 
pickling ...130 

pancakes 

8 

3 

padding .. 

8 

3 

potted,  for  sand wlohes 15 

ragout  of,  Creole  sauce 15 

rissoles.                                         14 

'.'*  8 

g 

shortcake 

a  la  Gonde     

Sar^'::::::::::::::.:: 

ala  Mennlere 

8 

7 

8 

ttmbale 

.    t 

(Salisbury  steak)                          IS 

Applej^j.^............ 

2 

::::::  I 

Batter 

8 

for  buckwheat  cakes 8 

for  corn  griddle  cakes      8 

for  Qannel  griddle  cakes 8 

for  French  pancakes 8 

for  frying  sweet  foods  &  fruits    i 

scalloped  with  oysters 14 

soaUops  of  dance  Trianon 15 

scrambled  with  eggs 10 

shortribs 10 

Beef,  small  fillets  of.  mattre  dhotel.  15 
"   with  oysters...  15 

Portugese  stjie 

4 

.    3 

Apricot  bavarolse 

cobbler         

4 

4 

4 

for  graham  griddle  cakes, 
for  rice  griddle  cakes 

::::::  i 

ebartreose 

1 

Beef,  smoked,  with  splnaoh 10 

Beef  soup,  English  and  Scotch 18 

Jelly 

91 

for  wheat  griddle  cakes  .. 
for  Yorkshire  pudding.... 

8 

8 

mannalade  m  Jam. . . . 

"      JelUed 1* 

Pa,re 
Beef  steak  and  kidney  pie U 


and  masbroom  pie 14 

"     and  oyster  pie 14 

Beef  stew,  German  style 10 

Betif  tongae.  smoked,  with  spinach..  15 
Oeef  tenderloin  with  blood  gravy  —  15 

'•  with  artichokes 12 

"  wlthoepes U 

"  with  custards 12 

'*  alajallenne 13 

>'  a  la  macedolne 12 

"  with  mushrooms....  1 

"  a  la  NlTernalse 12 

"  alaParlslenne  ...  .  12 

"  a  la  Prlntaniere —  12 

"  with  stuffed  peppers  12 

"  with  vegetables 12 

Beef  tenderloin  steak,  sc.  Bearnalse.  12 

'•      bordelalse  ....  12 

"  '•      Parls.potatoes  12 

"  "     BC.iPerigueax.  13 

"  "      saute,  peppers  13 

Beef  tongae,  braised,  with  tomatoes  15 

"         corned  with  spinach...  16 

Beef,  tournedos  of,  with  olives 15 

Beet  and  egg  salad 17  &  150 

greens 16 

and  potato  salad 17 

Beets 16 

boiled  in  butter  saaca 16 

for  garnishing 16 

pickled 16 

Beetroot  and  potato  salad 150 

Bell  fritters 

Benedictine 17  &  65 

Berlin  pancakes 73 

Bermuda  onions,  puree  Of 118 

Beyrout  sauce 156 

Blgarade  sauce 156 

Biscuits,  cheese 

Bisque 17 

of  crabs 17  &  69 

of       "    Creolestylo 69 

of  crayfish 17 

of  herring 17 

of  jack  rabbit 17 

of  lobster 17  &  103 

of  oysters 17 

of  partridge 17 

17 
17 
17 
81 


Page 

Blaeflsh,  boiled,  shrimp  sauce 2U 

broiled,  with  anchovy  butter  ..  20 

saute,  admiral  sauoe 20 

wltb  anchovies 20 

steaks,  Italian  sauoe 19 

stuffed  fillets  of 20 

and  baked 19 

Boars  bead,  glased 133 

Bohemian  sauce 156 

Bohemienne  (garnish) 86 

Bologna  sausage 138 

(Italian) 

Boned  turkey 170 

Bones  (pigs) 131 

Bordelalse  (garnish)    86 

sauce,  brown  and  white 156 

Boston  stew  (oyster) 121 

BOX  stew  (oyster) 121 

Bouohee  20&  167 

of  anchovies 21 

of  chicken 20 

of  crayfish  tails 2u 

of  fole-gras 20 

of  game 20 

with  game  puree 20 

of  lobsters 20  & 

with  marrow 

with  mushrooms 21 

of  oranges 21 

of  oysters 2u 

with  ox  palates 2i 

of  peaches 21 

of  plums 21 

with  ragout 20 

of  reedblrd 

a  la  Heine 20 

alaSt.  Hubert 20 

of  salmon 21 

with  salplcon 2 

of  sardines 21 

ala  Seville 21 

of  sole 21 


of  plovers . 

of  prawns  (or  shrimps. 

of  salmon 

of  terrapin 

Bl  tter  al  mond,  extract  of ... . 
Black  beans  with  rlssoto  . . . . 
Blackberries 

with  cream 

charlotte J... 

compote 

jam 

jelly 


pudding 18 

shortcake 18 

tartlets 18 

Blackbirds 18 

broiled  OD  skewers 18 

compote  of 18 

pie  18 

In  potatoes 18 

salmis  of 18 

Black  cook 19 

"    broiled,  with  jelly 19 

Blackdlver 19 

Blackflsh 18 

baked,  oyster  sauce 19 

boiled,  Italian  sauce 19 

broiled,  witb  parsley 

fried,  with  bacon 

saute  with  flue  herbs 19 

Black  gome,  roast,  bread  sauoe 19 

Black  grouse,  braised 19 

Black  pudding 19 

Blancmange  ~ 

"     chocolate 56 

"     corn 66 

Blanch  or  blanohed 18 

Blanqnette l" 

Bladders  (pigs) 13 1 

Bloaters 19 

toasted 19 

Blood  (pigs) .  .131 

sausage 138 

(French) 138 

"       (North  (Germany) 138 

Blaeflsh 19 

baked,  in  crumbs 20 

"      matelote  sauce 20 

"      wlthflneherbs 20 

"      with  tomatoes  20 


of  sweetbreads 20 

of  woodcock 21 

Boudln 21 

blano 21 

of  fowl 21 

Of  hare 21 

delapln 21 

deUevre 21 

nolr 19  &  21 

of  rabbit 21 

of  veal 21 

de  veau 21 

Boaergolse  (garnish) 86 

sauce 1»6 

Boulettes  of  game 21 

Bouillabaisse 21 

Bouillon,  beef,  with  arusts 13 

Bourglgnotte  or  boarglgnonne(garn )  86 

Bourglgnotte  sauce    156 

Brain  cakes  witb  bacon 24 

croquettes  with  peas 24 

cutlets,  VlUerol  sauce 24 

forcemeat 24 

kromeskles,  Madiera  sance 25 

patties  or  vol  a»  vents 25 

pigs 131 

Brains 23 

braised,  with  mushrooms 24 

"         sauce  Bemoulade 24 

"  with  stuffed  tomatoes.  24 
broiled,  with  parsley  butter....  25 
creamed,  with  kidney  beans —  24 
croustadesof.  with  artichokes.  (4 

fried,  breaded,  Tartar  sauce 24 

"      with  brown  butter 24 

and  mushrooms  In  cases 24 

with  rice,  Turkish  style 

roast,  with  forcemeat  balls 24 

in  sauce  Pouleite  with  rice 24 

scalloped.  In  shell 24 

scrambled 23 

with  sorrel,  sauce  Bavlgote S4 

Braise  and  braising 25 

Urandled  cherries 

Brandy 23 

sauoe «3 

Bread 

white  versus  brown 23 

Bressoise  sauoe  156 

Bretonne  (garnish)    86 

sauoe,  cold  and  hot 156 

Brie  23 

Brine 23 

for  ham.  pickles,  eta 131 

Brioche  fritters 73 

Brochette 21 

of  calf's  brains 22 

of  chicken  livers..... 22 


175 

Page 

Brochette  of  dock  livers 23 

of  crayfish  tails 23 

of  eels 23 

of  geese  livers  23 

of  lamb  fries  29 

of  lamb  kidneys 21 

of  lobster 33 

of  mussels t3 

of  mutton 23 

of  ortolans 120 

of  oysters 21  &  123 

of  reed  birds 23 

of  pigs'  kidney* 33 

of  rabbit 23 

of  scallops 23 

of  smelts 23 

ofsprlnglamb 22 

of  sweetbreads 23 

of  turkey 2.1 

of  turkey  livers 23 

of  veal 23 

Brook  ti  out  with  quenelles 169 

"     broiled 189 

Broth,  beef,  with  celery 13 

chicken,  with  artichokes 56 

"  with  asparagus  tips. . .  66 

"         with  custards .  56 

•'  with  onions 66 

"         with  peached  egg 16 

•'         withrlce 55 

"         with  sorrel 16 

"         with  spring  vegetables  56 

olam 68 

Bmnolse 25 

Brunswick,  cervelat  sausage 139 

Brussels  sprouts 26 

"     boiled 25 

"     In  cream 25 

"     with  parsley  butter.  25 

"     puree  of 25 

"     sautees 25 

Buck 25 

Buckwheat *5 

kes 8 

Bulsson 25 

Burbot 78 

Butter 25 

adalterations 20 

anchovy 2  &  26 

apple 3 

oakes 26 

crayfish 28 

drawn 26 

garllo 26 

horseradish 26  &  96 

lobster 26 

maitred  hotel 26 

montpelier «6 

peach 127 

pepi>er 26 

plum 134 

ravlgote 36 

shrimp 26 

Bntterball  daok 26 

Butterlne  or  margarine 26 

Button  onion  soup  with  peas. 119 

Cabbage 26 

baked,  with  cheese 27 

"        with  ham 26 

boiled 26 

"       German  style 27 

braised 27 

ereamed 26 

with  eggs 27 

fried,  with  baoon 27 

an  gratln 27 

panpiettesof 27 

pickled 27 

salad 37&1S0 

stewed 26 

staffed 26 

timbalee 27 

Cafe 27 

Caillea 28 

Cake,apple 3 

ohoeolate 57 

citron 68 

plum 136 

Cakes,  batter S 

beef,  with  egg 14 

brain,  with  bacon 24 

batter 26 

codfish 61 

erab 67 

flanael 82 

green  com  batter 67 

hoe 96 

■aasage,  with  potatoes IS 

Calf 38 

Cairs  brains,  brochette  of » 


176 


..   24 


C»U's brains. parsley  saace.... 
"         sauce  ylDatgreite 

"        savory  omelei  of zo 

"        BUd  tongue.  tuUBhrmsc  24 

Cairsears,  boiled,  sauce  villeroi 29 

"      fried,  tomato  sauce 29 

*'  ragoui  of,  iii  croustadei).  29 
"  stuffed,  huuce  bordeiait>e  29 
"      with  truffles,  so.  trlanon 

"      lunieetyle 29 

Cairsfeet 3U 

"  boiled,  polvrade  sauce...  30 
"      crepinettes,  sc  prov'caie  bO 

"      croustades  of 30 

*'      frlcaoee  of 30 

"      In  batter,  Italian  sauce 

•*     jelly 30 

"      witbmushr'm.sc.poulett 
"      steamea,  sc.  remoulade.  30 

0*U'Bhead 

"      with  bacon  &  parsley  se 
"      baked  with  chipolatagar  28 

"  '•    Kuglish  style 2^^ 

"  "    German  style 

"  "    sauce  maintenoD.. 

"      boiled,  sauce  Tinaigrette 
••     and  bralnB,inusbroom  so.  28 
"        "         "      sauc  polvrade  29 
"      brsiaed, with  veal  quen" 

"     curried  with  rice 29 

"     with  flnanclere  rago»t 
"      fried,  tomato  vance. . . 
"     fricassee  of  .wlihveg'bles  '^9 
•'     with  oil  ves, tomato  sauce  iS 

"      sauce  Iiallenne 2S 

"     sauce  poulette 28 

"  soup,  Portugese  style...,  29 
'•  "  with  quenelles  —  29 
"  stuffed,  sauce  papllotte.  29 
"  and  tongue,  piquante  sc.  28 
"       "         '*        ragout  of....  29 

"     tn-tiestyle 28 

Oslf  8  heart,  larded.sauoe  Andalouse  3o 

"      stuffed  and  braised 

"  "       Madiera  sauce..    30 

Oalf'i  kldaeys,  broiled, parsley  butter  3o 

"         croquettes  with  peas.  31 

"         in  croustades 31 

'•  fried,  sauce  Colbert...  31 
"         larded,  Madeira  sauce  30 

"         omelet 31 

"         patties  of 81 

"         ragout  of 31 

"         sautes  with  mushr'ms  30 
Oklf  ■  liver  and  bacon  with  spinach  .  31 

"    broiled,  Italian  sauce 31 

"    braised,  with  vegetables  .  31 

"    with  crisped  onions 31 

"    frl«d,  with  fine  herbs 31 

"    potted,  with  aspic  jelly...  32 

"    quenelles  in  crumbs 32 

"    8aut«,  with  bacon 31 

"  scallops  of,  with  mushr'm  31 
"    with  smothered  onions...  31 

"    stewed  with  onionB 3i 

"    timbale  of,  piquant  sauce  32 
Cairi sweetbreads,  bUnquette*f....  33 
"        braised,  garnished...  33 
"  "      with  sorrel....  33 

"  broiled,  sauce  Colbert  32 
"       with  brown  butter...  32 

"       In  cases 33 

•*       casserole  of 3S 

"  wlthcream'dmush'm  )>4 
"  In  cream,  outcast...  321 
"  croquettes  with  peas  32 
"  cronstade  of  carried.  3:j 
"       outlettof.wlthTeg'bl  3;i 

"       with  demt  glace 3;i 

"  fried,  mashr'm  sance  34 
"  "    sauce  pertgueuz  32 

"  "    sauce  villeroi...  34 

"  with  flnaneler  ragout  33 
"       glazed.  French  beans  33 

••       kromeskies  of 34 

"       larded    and  braised, 

mushroom  sance  .  3' 
"  lardPd.  «auo  touionse  33 
"  patties  of,  scrambled  33 
"       ragoutof.wltb morels  34 

"  "       "  on  toast 34 

"  rissoles  of.  vegetables  32 
"       saute  of.  with  baked 

tomatoes 34 

"       sautes  with  peas 32 

"       scalloped , 

"       Inshell 

"       stewed,  kidney  beans  34 

"       timbale  of 33 

Calf  %  tongn*,  braised,  tomato  lauoe.  82 


Pa«re( 
Calf's  tongue,  fried,  sauce  Robert. . .   32  Cassolette, 
with  potatoes.mush.sc  32  Catfish. 


"        sauce  tartare 32 

"        saute,  vinaigrette 32 

California  shoulders,  pickling  of 132 

Calipee  and  calipash 

Cambridge  sausage 

Camt  m  bert 

Canapes 

Abei  deen 

anchovy 1 

Beroe,  or8wli>s  canapes 

Cabillaud 

of  caviar 3a 

chasseur 

cheese 

chicken 

of  chicken  livers 

of  crab 36 

Creole 

In  ian 

Lorenzo 

Madison 35 

Madras 36 

olive 36 

of  oranges US' 

of  oysters 36 

of  potted  ham 36 

of  potted  tongue 3£ 

sardine 36 

savory 3fi 

Scotch 3fi 

of  shrimps 36 

of  smoked  salmon 36 

Swiss 36 

Windsor 36 

Winchester 36 

Canard 36 

Candied  peal  fritters 62 

Canned  goods 36 

Caunelons 36 

Canieloupes 86 

Capers 

Caper  sauce 156 

'•     forflsh 166 

Capercailzie 

Capors 36 

boiled  stuffed,  celery  sauoe 

"      with  milanaibO  garnish..  37 
"      mushroom  sauce 

"      with  sait  pork 37 

"      with  tongue*  cauliflower 

braised,  with  chipolata  garnish  37 

"  with   quenelles,  sauce 

perigueuz 37 

"         sauce  supreme 37 

"  with  tomatoed  rice 37 

roast,  with  noodles 37 

"     stuffed,  giblet  sauce ■     ■•37 

"  "       with  rice 37 

Capon,  stewed,  with  vegetables 37 

Capsicu  ms 37 

Caramel 37 

Caraway 37 

Carbonado 37 

Cardinal 37 

(garnish)   86 

sauoe 166 

Cardoons 87 

Carmine 88 

Carp 

baked,  sance  genose  . . 
"      sauce  matelote 

boiled,  caper  sauce 38 

braised  stuffed  sauce  allemacde  38 

broiled  stuffed    flnes-herbes  sc  S'^ 

lemon  parsley  butter 

fried,  piquante  sauce 

Carp  roes,  boiled,  sance  supreme., 
fried,  sauce  tartare.... 

patties  of 

scalloped,  in  shell 88 

Carp  saute,  admiral  sance. .. . 

Carrots 

cnrrled,  with  rice 39 

braised  new,  parsley  sanoe 
glazed  new.  with  butter. . . . 

new,  In  brown  gravy 

"      in  cream 

"     poulette  sauee 

pnree  of 14fi 

salad  with  asparagus  tips 

sauoe     156 

saute  of  new 

soup 8» 

stewed,  with  green  peas 89 

Carving 

''Bses 27 

Casserole 

Caseia 


P«<re 

...  89 
89 


Catsup,  anchovy 2 

mushroom 109 

Caul  1  pigs) 181 

Cauliflower,  baked 40 

boiled,  HoUandaise  sauce 40 

cream  of 40 

fried,  allemande  sauce 40 

withmajonnatse 40 

pickled 40 

puree  of 40 

salad 40&U0 

sauce 40  &  166 

scalloped 40 

stewed 40 

Caviar 40 

canapes  of 35  &  40 

croustades 40 

wim  egg 40 

eggs  stuffed  with 40 

tartines 40 

on  toast  with  olives 40 

Celeriac 41 

Celery 40 

baked,  with  eheese 41 

boiled,  with  onions 41 

braised,  on  toast 41 

consomme 41 

cream  of — 41 

fried,  sauce  villeroi 41 

fritters 41 

with  marrow 41 

mayonnaise  of 41 

patties 41 

puree  of  145 

"       "  and  onions 41 

salads lio 

sauce,  brown  and  white 166 

saute    41 

stewed,  on  toast 41 

Cepes 41 

broiled,  on  toast 42 

omelet  with  ....     42 

saute  of .  on  toast 41 

stewed,  on  toast 41 

Cercelies 42 

Cerealine  42 

Cerises  glaces  a  la  Chantilly 45 

Cerveaux  an  beurre  noir 24 

en  coqullle  an  gratin 24 

Cervelas 42 

Cervelat  sausage,  Brunswick 139 

Cervelatpolse   or    Danish   beef   and 

pork  sausage 137 

Cervelles 42 

Chablis 43 

Chadeau  sauce 167 

Chafing  dish 43 

Cham  bord  (garnish) 86 

sauce 167 

Champagne 43 

sauce 157 

Chantausen  sauoe 157 

Chantilly 43 

cream 43 

soup 43 

Charcoal 4t 

Charlotte 41 

blackberry 18 

peach 138 

cherry 46 

Chartreuse 42&65 

peach 128 

Chasseur 43 

sauoe 166 

Chateaubriand 48 

sauce  167 

Chandfroid 48 

sauce 167 

Cherries  . .  44 

brandied 46 

In  croustades 46 

glazed,  with  whipped  cream —  46 

Cherry  charlotte 45 

cobbler 46 

compote 46 

flawn 46 

fritters   46 

jelly 46 

marmalade 46 

meringue 46 

pie 46 

"  deep 46 

padding 46 

rol  y-poly 46 

sanoe 167 

sherbet 46 

tarts 46 

trifle 46 


Cherry  water  loe. 
Cbeese 

blacnlta.-.  . 

bombe 

camembert.. 

oanapes.  ... 

oasseroles  .• 

club 


Page 


cottage, 
onatard 
flngen.. 


Iritters   44 

gruyere 92 

liver,  Italian  atyle 31 

lobster 101 

omelet 44 

parmesan  124 

potted 44 

puddldc .  44 

ramequlns 43 

sandwiches 

Bavorles 43 

scallops 

Bousaes 

straws  43 

Swiss 

Cheesecakes,  apple 

Chemise    44 

Chervil 45 

Chestnuts 4& 

derlUed 46 

foroemeat 

puree  of 46&145 

soup 46 

CbevrenU  sauce 167 

Chlantl 4' 

Chicken,  blanched,  with  veloute  sauc  4! 

blanquette  of,  with  truffles 4H 

boiled  larded,  with  macaroni..  ~~ 
"  with  salt  pork,  parsley  sc  48 
"      with  veg'bl.allemandesc  5(1 

"      boned 61 

boucheeof 2(i 

Cklcken,  braised  fillets  of , Hanover  sc  49 
"       with  green  peppers  49 

"        with  macaroni 48 

"       with  mushrooms...  hU 

"       with  vegetables 50 

Chicken,  breast  of,   steamed,   sance 

supreme 52 

broiled 46 

"       hunter's  style 48 

Chicken  broth  with  artichokes 56 

"      with  asparagus 56 

"      with  custards 6S 

"      with  onions 66 

"      with  poached  egg 6»i 

"      with  rice 66 

"      with  sorrel  66 

'•      with  spring  vegetabl's  56 

Chicken  canapes 35 

cannelon  of,  tartar  sauce 53 

capilotade  of 63 

chartreuse  of,  with  string  beans  60 

chaudfrold  of 5(i 

with  chestnut  puree  and  veg'bls  48 
collops  of,  with  macaroni 54 


Chicken,  cream  of 55 

"       "  with  quenelles  ...  55 

"       "  with  rice 55 

"       "  with  tomatoed 

quenelles 5.") 

Chicken  croquettes 46 

croustades  of 53 

curried,  with  rice 49 

Chicken  ontlete  with  green  peas 50 

'•        mlncpd  sc  bordelaise  46 

'•       of.  with  veiretabies..  47 

Chfcken.eplgramme  of.  tomato  sauce  48 

Chicken,  flUets  of,  with  asparagus  pts  50 

"       "    with  cardinal  sauc  52 

Chicken  forcemeat  60  &  82 

"  balls  curried,  with  rice  60 
*'  fried,  tomato  sauce. . .  63 

Chicken,  fricassee  of 4H 

Chicken,  fried 4K 

"  In  hatter,  tomato  sauce  48 
"  breast  of,  corn  fritters  62 
"     with  cucumber  puree..  4t' 

"      fricassee  of 4" 

"      Indian  style 49 

"      with  rice  and  okras 62 

Chicken  fritters  piquante  sauce 53 

galantlneof 51  &  84 

giblets,  ragout  of,  with   potato 

croquettes 54 

glbletsoup 54 


Page 
Chicken glbleu  etewed,  with  rloe....  54 

gumbo 65 

Chicken  halibut 93 

and  ham  hashed  with  rloe 64 

ham  and  tongue  sausage 140 

haricot  of .  with  vegetables 48 

hash  with  peppers  on  toast {3 

"     with  stuffed  peppers  . 
kromeskies,  sauce  perigueuz...  61 
legs,  boiled,  wun  green  peas...  52 

"    devilled,  with  bacon 60 

Chicken  livers,  brochette  of 22 

canapesof 85 

in  oases 64 

forcemeat 54 

omeletof 64 

roast,  on  toast   64 

saute  of,  on  toast 54 

stewed,  with  mush'rs  54 

Chicken,  Maryland  style 48 

matelote  of 48 

mayonnaise  56  &  161 

a  la  Marengo 49 

minced,  with  poached  egg 63 

panada  with  eggs  on  toast 63 

patties,  sauce  supreme 51 

pie 46 

pies,  small,  French  style 47 

potted,  for  sandwiches 53 

pot  pie 46 

puree  of 55 

quenelle  forcemeat 61 

"      with  mushrooms 61 

"      with  truffles. sc  supreme  63 

with  rice,  maltose  style 47 

rissoles  of 51 

roast  boned 51 

"      with  mushr'ms  &  bread  so  48 

"     oyster  sauce 47 

•alad 66  &  121 

51 


salpicon  of,  with  potatoes 
sausages,  sauce  HoUandaise 
Chicken,  saute  of,  with  bouchees  . 
with  mushrooms . . . 

with  oysters 

with  potato  balls  .. 
with  rice  and  leeks 

with  rissoto 47 

Chicken,  scalloped 51 

smothered 46 

souffles  of 

Chicken  soup,  Creole  style 65 

English  style 55 

with  noodles 66 

with  peas  puree 66 

Portuguese  style 65 

with  rice  and  .eeks 6 

Southern  style 65 

Turkish  style 65 

with  vegetab  es 65 

Chicken,  spitcbcocked.crapaudtne  sc.  49 

Chicken,  stewed,  with  dumplings 49 

withestragon 60 

German  style 61 

Mezicaj  style 49 

with  rice 49 

sauce  provencale..  62 

sauce  ravlgote 52 

Spanish  style 47 

with  tomatoes 47 

Turkish  style 47 

Chicken  stuffed  with  chestnute,  Ma- 
deira sauce 47 

"      breast  of,  cucumbers  62 

"  "       "  scperlgueu  !2 

"      &  stewed, so.  mllanals  49 

supreme  of,  with  rice. perigueux  47 

"         "  with  toulouse  ragout  47 

tlmbalesof.wlthforc'meat  balls  &.S 

vol-au-veot  of,  with  quenelles..  51 

Chicory 46  4  80 

salad  150 

Cblffonade 66 

Chillies 37 

Chili  sauce 157 

Chipolata. . . , 66 

(garnish) 86 

Chives 66 

Chlvry  (garnish) 86 

Chocolate 66 

blancmange 66 

cake 5T 


O  177 

Page 

Cbonzde  bmzelles 2* 

croutons SI 

Chonz-paste 67 

Chow  chow 67 

Chowder,  clam (s 

codfish 61 

Philadelphia  cUm fig 

Chntney 67 

apple 8 

Cider 67 

Cinnamon 67 

eztractof 81 

Cisco 67 

broiled,  lemon  parsley  sauce. . .  67 

hUetsof,  in  batter 67 

sante,  Julienne  potatoes 67 

Citric  acid 68 

Citron 66 

cake 68 

Civet  of  venlaon 173 

Clams 68 

broiled 68 

broth 68 

chowder 6g 

cocktail 60 

cream  of 69 

croquettes 68 

forcemeat 68 

f ricasssee  of 68 

fried 58 

fritters 58 

roast 68 

scalloped 68 

soup 69 

steamed 68 

stew t» 

Claremont  sance 157 

Claret  sauce 167 

Cloves 9 

eztractof 81 

Club  cheese 44 

Cobbler 69 

apple 4 

cherry 45 

peach 128 

Coblenz  sausage 139 

Cochineal 59 

Cochon 69 

de  lalt 69 

Cock-a-leekie  soup 66 

Cockle-leekle  soup 59 

Ctookles 69 

Cocks-combs 69 

CockskernelB 59 

Cocktails 59 

clam 60 

Neptune  60 

oyster •....  60 

Cocoa 69 

(Tocoannt 69 

Cocotte 69 

Cod,  boiled  salt,  cream  sauce 61 

creamed  fresh,  on  toast 60 

crimped,  shrimp  sauce 61 

outlet  fried,  piquante  sauce —  60 

an  gratin 61 

and  oyster  pie 123 

"       "    Frenchstyle 61 

Cod's  roes,  boiled,  butter  sauce 61 

broiled,  butter  sance 61 

fried,  caper  sauce 61 

smoked 61 

Cod,  salt,  shredded  and  creamed 61 

scalloped 61 

scrambled,  on  toast   61 

Cod's  sounds,  fricassee  of  .with  oystrs  61 
stulTed.  oyster  sance...  61 
Cod  steak,  boiled,  with  anchovies....  6a 
breadcrumbed,  parsley  so.  60 

broiled.  Colbert  sauce 60 

curried .  with  rissoto 60 

fried,  tomato  sauce 60 

saute,  club  style 61 

Codfish 60 


cream 

"     frlttere 
cup  custards.. 

float 

frlttere 


Icing. 


baked,  caper  sauce. 
•'  stuffed  with 
"  breadcrumb 
"       balls 

boiled,  egg  sauce. 

cakes 

chowder 


.  60 
..  61 
..  W 

..  61 
..  61 

hash,  salt.  New  Bngland  style .  63 

salad 160 

seal  loped  fresh 61 

Codfish  tongues,  boiled,  egg  sauce  ...  61 

patties 6V 

scalloped  freeli  ....  61 

Coffee.  82 

cream 63 

Cognac  68 


178 


Colbert 62 

Mao« 157 

Boup 62 

Coleslaw 27 

Combination  salads 151 

Compote  62 

apple 3 

banana 7 

blackberry 18 

of  blackbirds 18 

Cberry    45 

of  oranges U9 

of  peaches 127 

of  plKeon 133 

Conde 62 

ConUture  fritters 83 

Conger  eel,  boiled,  allemandesance.  78 

*'     carried  with  ricd 78 

"     fried,  tartar  sauce 78 

"    roast  stuffed,  admiral  sc.  78 

Consomme 62 

Af rioalne 62 

andalouse 62 

ADKlaise 62 

with  asparagus  tips 65 

bagratlon 62 

bariKOule  63 

beauvllUers 63 

bourdalone 63 

bonrgeolse.  63 

bmneise 63 

oareme 63 

celery 414  63 

celestine 63 

ohantllly 6H 

chatelaine 6i 

chicken 6^ 

chlffonade 6; 

with  choux 63 

ol  aremont 

Colbert 

with  corn 65 

cussy 

with  darioles 

daumont 

deDtael 65 

descllgnac 

d'Orsay 

Douglas 

duborg 

Dnchesse 63 

epicure  64 

Oambetta  64 

of  game 64 

Imperatric*. 64 

imperial 64 

Indienne 64 

Ingredients 

Italienne 64 

.    JotnTille 64 

lullenne 

Kursel 64 

with  macaroni 64 

macedolne 64 

magenta 64 

Marie  Stuart 64 

Massena 64 

Meflds 64 

Mllanalse 64 

MonteCarlo... 64 

Montmorency   64 

Napolitaine 64 

Naudler 64 

Nilsson 64 

Biremalse 64 

with  noodles 64 

orge 04 

Palestine 65 

pated'Italle 65 

pattl 65 

paysanne 65 

with  peas $i& 

olsson 

;>rlnce  de  Oalles 65 

Prinoesse 65 

prlntaniere 

royal 66 

with  quenelles 

Kaohael 65 

renaissance 65 

with  rice 

rlToll 65 

royal* 65 


65 


poll 
PrI 


Bt.  Xayier. 
semonie . . . 
serelgne... 
■olfcrino... 


c 

Page 

Consomme  trols  raolnea 65 

with  turnips 65 

▼ermiceJli P5 

volallle 65 

Coq 65 

de  Brnyere 65 

d'Inde 65 

CoquiUe.... 65 

Coroellle 65 

Cordials 65 

Coriander 65 

Corn 66 

batter  oakes.... 6K 

Corned  beef  hash 15 

Corn  blanc  mange 66 

bread.jobnnycakeoroomdodgr  66 

dodger  6« 

fritters... 66  &  83 

gems  or  mutBns 66 

pudding,  grated 67 

tn-iddle  cakes 8 

hulled 6ti 

Corn  meal  or  Indian  pudding 66 

"     gruel 66 

"     mash    66 

Com  muffins S6 

mush  fried 66 

In  ear,  roast 67 

salad 67 

soup 67 

starch 67 

stewed.  Creole  style 67 

and  tomato  soup 67 

waffles 66 

Cotelettes 6'i 

Cottage  cheese 43 

Courtboulllon 67 

sauce 157 

Crab  apples 69 

Crabs    67 

baked P8 

bisqaeof 17  &  69 

buttered 67 

cakes 67 

canapes  of 35  &  68 

Creole  style 68 

croquettes 68 

cronstade  of 68 

devilled 68 

emlnoe  of 68 

forcemeat 68 

fritters 68 

gumbo  (soup) 68 

kromeskies 68 

omelet 68 

queen  style 68 

ala  Beiue 68 

salad 68  &  151 

sauce 69 

sausages 68 

scalloped 68 

stew 68 

stuffed 68 

toast 67 

tomatoes  stuffed  with 68 

Cranberries 69 

Cranberry  jam 69 

Jelly 69 

pie 69 

roll 69 

sanoe — I 

tartlettee 70 

Crapandine 70 

sauce 157 

Crayfish 70 

bisqaeof 17 

butter 26 

tails,  bonchee  of 20 

"     broohetteof 

Cream 70 

anchovy 2 

apple 3 

Bavarian 70 

of  cauliflower 40 

of  celery 41 

chantilly 42 

Cream  of  chicken 55 

"       "       with  quenelles  —  55 

"       "       with  rice 55 

Cream,  chocolate 57 

of  clams 

dressing 154 

fritters 70 

lemon 100 

of  lentils 100 

puffs 674  70 

sauce 70 

stew  (oyster) 121 

of  tartar 70 

whipped 70 


C-D 


Page 
...108 
..  104 


Creamed  fresh  mushrooms. 

macaroni 

onions 

oysters  on  toast 123 

Crecy n 

Creole  canapes 35 

omelet 80  4 117 

sauce 167 

Crepes 71 

Crepine 71 

Creplnettes 7I 

Cress 71 

salad.  1  1 

Cresson  71 

Cretes  de  coq 59 

Crevette  sauce 167 

Cromebkies 71 

Croquenbouchees 57 

Croquettes 71 

apple 3 

bass 8 

beef ,  with  peas 13 

brain,  with  peas X4 

chicken 46 

clam 68 

crab 68 

of  ham  with  green  peas 94 

hominy 96 

lobster U  2 

macaroni IO4 

oyster 123 

partridge,  sauce  Perl guenz.  ...126 

pork,  anchovy  sauce 136 

potato 143 

rice 149 

salmon 15t 

staffed  potato 143 

of  sweetbreads US 

turkey 170 

ofveal r,2 

Croastades 71 

caviar 40 

of  oysters 122 

of  partridge 126 

of  rice 149 

Croute-au-pot 71 

Croutons 71 

Cucumbers 71 

blanquetteof 71 

creamed 71 

curried   71 

French  style 7% 

fricassee  of 71 

fried,  with  marrow 71 

glased,  on  toast 71 

ketchup 7J 

and  onion  salad 73 

pickled 72 

pureeof 71 

salad 724161 

sauce 157 

stuffed,  with  forcemeat 71 

Cumin 73 

Cap  custards,  chocolate 67 

ices 96 

(Tnracoa 654  72 

sauce 158 

Curd  78 

Curing 73 

Currants 7J 

dried 72 

Curry 73 

sauce ...  157 

of  veal 173 

Custard 72 

apple 8 

cheese 44 

fritters 83 

sauce 168 

royal 149 

CatleU 73 

Csarinasano* 73  4167 

Damson 73 

Dandelion 73 

salad 151 

Danish  beef  and  pork  sausage 137 

liver  sausage 138 

smoked  sausage 137 

Darioles 73 

Dame 7.1 

desaumon 73 

D'Artois Ti 

(garnish) 86 

Dates 78 

Date  pudding 73 

Danbe 73 

Dauphlne 73 

(garnish) 86 

Demi-glaae 73 

Dent-de-lloQ 73 


D-E 

Pwe 

DeTlls 73 

DttviUed  almontlfl 1 

cralM 68 

lobster 101 

OTBten 121 

p»bblt 147 

Dewberries 18 

Diable  sauce 168 

DIablotlns 73 

Diamond  back 73 

Digest,  medical  table  of  time 73 

Dlges  tion 73 

Dindon 74 

Dlplomate  taace 158 

Dolmas 74 

Douoette  (corn  salad) 67 

DouRbbirds 74 

Drawn  butter 26 

Dressing,  cream 154 

French 154 

HoUandalse 154 

Dry  stew  loy ster ) 121 

Duobesse  (garnish) 86 

sauce 168 

Dumas  (garnish) 86 

Dumplings,  apple 3 

lemon lOU 

peach 128 

Durand  (garnish) 86 

Dutch  sauce 76 

D'Uxelles 76  &  158 

Duck,  boiled,  parsley  sauce 74 

boned  stuffed,  with  aspic 74 

braised,  with  sauerkraut 75 

"        with  vegetables 75 

curry,  with  rice 76 

Ducks  and  ducklings 74 

Ducks'  giblet  soup 76 

"       stewed,  in  border 76 

Ducks'  livers,  brochette  of 22  &  76 

scallops 76 

Duck,  roast,  orange  sauce —  74 

"       with  peas,  Hanover  sauc  74 

Duck,  salpicon  of,  In  cases   75 

Duck,  salmis  of,  in  croustade 76 

"       "    with  fried  hominy..  75 

Duck,  saute  of,  with  chestnuts 75 

"       "  with  noodles 76 

"       "  witholives 75 

Duck,  stewed,  with  green  peas 76 

"        with  puree  of  peas —  76 
"        with  stuffed  tomatoes.  76 

"        with  turnips 75 

Duck,  stuffed,  Italian  sauce 76 

Duckling,  broiled.wlth  devilled  buttr  14 

fillets  of,  macedolne 76 

fried  fillets  of,  sauce  blgarade..  76 

stuffed,  orange  sauce 

Ears,  pig's 131 

Kearlate 77 

Eoarlette  (garnish) 87 

Eclairs 67  4  77 

Bel-pout 78 

Eel  salad 77&151 

Eels 77 

baked,  London  style 77 

boiled,  maitre  d'hotel 77 

brochette  of  22 

broiled  boned 77 

braised,  Allemande  sance 77 

fricassee  of 77 

fried,  shrimp  sauce 77 

grilled,  London  style 77 

matelote  of 77 

orly  of 77 

roast,  anchovy  butter 77 

stewed,  London  style 77 

Egg  patties 78 

powder 6 

rarebit 78 

salad 161 

sance  

Eggs 78 

breaded,  Creole  sauoe 79 

with  brown  butter 79 

with  caviar 79 

In  croustade 79 

curried 78 

devined 78 

frloasseeef 79 

augratin 78 


Indian  style. 

masked.  Madeira  sance 

molded,  provencale  sance. 

with  onion  puree 

poached 

salpicon  of 

(orambled 

"         incases 

"         with  tomatoes-.. 


E-F 

Pajre 

Eggs,  shirred 78 

stuffed 78 

'•     with  caviar 40 

Egg  plant,  broiled,  on  toast 80 

"     with  cheese 80 

"     fried 80 

"     fritters 80 

"     salad 151 

"     stewed 80 

'•      stuffed 80 

"      Turkish  style 80 

Eminoeoforab    68 

Bncaisse 28 

Endive 80 

salad 161 

English  beef  soup 13 

Eplgramme 80 

Epplng  sausage"  •  • 139 

Bspagnole  sauce 81  &  168 

Extracts  81 

Extract  of  Aniseed 8i 

of  bitter  almond 81 

of  cinnamon 81 

of  cloves 81 

of  lemon 81 

of  sarsaparllla  81 

of  vanilla 81 

of  wlntergreen 81 

Fancy  fry  (oysters) 122 

Farina 81 

pudding,  baked 81 

boiled 81 

fritters .  81 

Fat,  fresh  lard-back 181 

pigs  gut 1 31 

pigs  kidney 131 

Fennel 81 

sauce 81  &  158 

Fermlere  (garnish) 87 


F-G 


179 


Figs. 


81 


FInanciere 

sauce   

(garnish) 

Fine  herbs 

sauce 158 

Finnan  haddie 81 

"     baked 81 

"  "    Aberdeen  style..  93 

"  "    butter  sauce 93 

"          "    with  tomatoes...  93 
•'     boiled 81 


"     broiled 81 

'•  "     lobster  butter...  93 

"     Delmonico  style 81 

"     saute,  parsley  sauce. . .  93 

Flageolets 9  &  82 

Flamande  (garnish) 87 

Flannel  cakes . .  82 

Flannel  griddle  cakes 

Flemish  sauce 158 

Float,  chocolate 67 

Flounders 82 

Flour,  graham 

Foie-gras..     82 

bonchee  of 20 

Fonds  d'artlohauts  a  I'ltallenne 6 

"  alaMontglas....    & 

"  alaStraBbourg..    6 

"  a  la  Supreme —    6 

Fondu 82 

Forbidden  fruit 91 

Forcemeat * 82 

Forcemeat  balls,  obloken,  enrried, 

wlthrlce 60 

"      liver 82 

Forcemeat,  brain 34 

chestnut 46 

chicken 60&82 

"       fried,  tomato  sance 68 

"       liver 64 

'*       quenelle 61 


crab 68 

ham  and  liver 82 

veal 82 

Fore  bams  or  Calif  erhla  shoolders. .  .132 

Fowl,  boudtn  of :  21 

Frangtpane 

Frankforts 82 

Frankfort  sausages  (welnerwnrBt)...140 

Frappe 82 

French  dressing 82  &  164 

French  salad 1 61 

Frlantlne 82 

Fricadelles:  also  called  Frioandelles.  82 

Frioandeaa 83 

rrles,  lamb 

Fritters 83 

apple 8  ft  83 


Fritters,  apple  costard f^a 

anchovy 14    2 

apricot 4  *  gs 

artichoke .5 

banana 7 

brioche 73 

candled  peel 82 

celery 41 


44 


Cherry 45 

chicken,  piquante  sauce 53 

clam ts 

chocolate 63 

chocolate  cream 66 

confiture ts 

corn 66&83 

crab 68 

cream 70 

custard 83 

egg-plant 80 

farina 81 

fruit 83 

German 83 

orange 83  &  119 

oyster  plant  124 

parsnip 83  *  126 

peach 83&128 

pineapple 83 

potato 143 

Queen js 

rhubarb I49 

rice 83 

Spanish  puff 83 

Fro  gs 83 

fried,  tartar  sauce 83 

omelet.  Southern  style 84 

Frogs  legs,  broiled 83 

"     frlcasseeof 83 

"      saute,  bordelaise 84 

"        "      ponlette 84 

"        "      provencale 84 

"     Southern  style 84 

"     stewed,  with  peas 83 

Fruit  fritters 83 

jelly 87 

Fnmet  sauce 169 

Galantines 84 

Galantine  of  turkey 170 

Gall  (pig's) 131 

Game 84 

bouoheeof 20 

boulettes  of 21 

salad 162 

puree,  bonchee  with 20 

Garden  parties 84 

Gardener's  salad 151 

Garfish 85 

Garlic 85 

butter 26 

Garnishes 85 

Garnish,  admiral 85 

Af  ricalne 86 

Allemande 86 

Andalouse 86 

Anglalse 85 

D'Artots. .  • 86 

Aurore • 85 

Bayard 86 

Bohemienne 86 

Bordelaise 86 

Bonrgeolse 86 

Bonrglgnonne 86 

bonrgignotte 86 

Bretonne 86 

cardinal ..  86 

ohambord 86 

Ohlpolata 86 

ehlvry 86 

Danphine 86 

Ducbesse 86 

Dumas 86 

Dnrand 86 

ecarlate 8T 

fermlere 87 

flnandere 87 


godard  .... 
gourmet... 

Greque 

Hnssard. . . , 
Joumeanx . 

an  Jus 

macedolne. 
Marlnlere. . 
matelote. .  • 
Milanalse . 


NapoUUlne. 
Nlvervalse  • . 
Partsienne.. 


l8o 


Page 

....  87 
....  87 


Oarnlah ,  parianne 

perigaenz 

provenoale 

KeKencr 

Klchelieu 

Buuennalse 

Rorale  — 

Boubtse ' 

Htanley 

Bupreme  

tortu .. 

Toulouse 

Ctaese  livers,  brochstte  of.. 

Gems,  corn 

Gene7«ise  sauce 

Oenoise  sauce 

G«rman  fritters 

potato  salad 152 

sauce 

■alad 161 

OherUns 

eiblcts 

pie 64  & 

pot  pie 64 

and  potato  pie 64 

ragout  of,  with  potato  croquetts 

aauoe 64&89&159 

80UP 

"    Clear 

'•    with  rice 

stewed,  with  green  peas 

Glaie   89 

Globe  artichokes,  Colbert  sauce 

"  stuffed 6 

Oodard  sauce 

(garnUh) 87 

Oodlreau 82  & 

Goiden  buck 

sauce 169 

Goose 

boiled,  with  pickled  pork 90 

braised,  with  sausages 9U 

"       with  vegetables 90 

with  kraut,  German  style 90 

roast,  apple  sauc* 90 

'*      green,  gooseberry  sauce..  90 

"      with  oyster  stuffing 90 

"      stuffed  with  chestnuts...  9U 
"      stuffed  with  godiveau...    90 

stuffed,  with  glazed  apples 9U 

"         with  glazed  turnips —  90 

Goose  liver  sausage,  truffled 140 

Gooseberry  sauce 90&  159 

Gorgonzola 90 

Goulash 

Gourmet  (garnish) 

Graham  flour 90 

griddle  cakes 8 

Grapefruit 91 

jam 90 

Jelly 90 

Grapes,  frosted 90 

Grayling 91 

Green  corn  batter  cakes 67 

"     roast  67 

"     saute 67 

Green  grape  Jelly 91 

Green  pea  sou  p 1 29 

Green  turtle  soup.  171 

Greengage 91 

Green  and  wax  beans — 9 

Greaadins 91 

Greque  (garnish) 87 

Griddle  cakes 8 

Grouper 92 

baked.  Gulf  style 92 

boiledt  caper  sauce 92 

**       matelote  garnish 92 

■ante,  lobster  sauce 92 

stuffed  and  baked,  tomato  sane  92 

Grouse 91 

broiled,  with  bacon  .      91 

braised,  with  glassed  carrots —  91 

cutlets  breadcrumbed 92 

glazed,  sauce  trianon 91 

roast,  bread  sauce 91 

"       huntersstyle 91 

"       Scotchstyle BI 

salmis  of 91 

stewed,  with  green  peas 91 

stuffed  fillets  of.  with  quenelles  91 

"        mushroom  sauce 91 

Omel,  odm  meal 66 

Gruyereor  Swiss  (cheese) 92 

Gnava 92 

eolnealien 92 

"    braised  stuffed 92 

"    broiled,  with  bacon 92 

"    roast  larded 92 


Q-H 

Page 

Gumbo 92 

chicken 66 

crab 

oyster 124 

Gut  fat  (pigs) 131 

Haddock 

baked  stuffed 

boiled,  oyster  sauce 

broiled  fresh,  anchovy  butter. 

creamed,  with  oysters 93 

fillets  of,  breadcrmb'd,  Dutch  sc  9 

"    saute 93 

Haggis 93 

Hair  (pigs) 13 

Halibut 93 

baked,  eggsaace 93 

boiled 

creamed,  with  mushrooms...  . 
Halibut  steak,  boiled,  cream  sauce. 

broiled 93 

"       creamed, with  mushr's  93 

"       fried,  with  bacon 93 

"       saute,  tomato  sauce..  93 

Ham »t 

boiled,  with  lima  beans 

braised,  with  vegetables 94 

croquettes  of,  with  green  peas. 

and  11  ver  forcemeat 82 

minced,  with  egg 94 

Hams 130 

pickling 13u 

"       ofroUed iSZ 

Ham,  roast,  champagne  sauce 

"      stuffed 9» 

sauce 159 

stewed,  with  spinach 94 

Hamburg  steak  with  onions 13 

"      tomatoed 13 

Hamburger 94 

tomatoed 94 

Hanover  sauce 

Hard  sauee 1 19 

Hare 94 

braised,  with  game  croquettes 

boudln  of 21 

civet  of,  hunters  style 94 

cu  tlets  of ,  piq  uante  sauce 95 

fillets  of,  sautes 95 

'•      "    polvrade  sauce 94 

'■      "    tomato  sauce 9 

fried  fillets  of 95 

lugged 95 

larded  saddles  of 

scallops  of,  with  fine  herbs 95 

"    with  tongue,  sauce 

perigueux 9& 

stuffed  saddle  of ,  with  Jelly 94 

Haricot  beans,  Boston  style 9 

"      with  bacon 9 

"     cream  sauce 

"      puree 9 

Haricot  soup,  family  style 9 

Harrogate  sauce 159 

Hash,  beef 14 

chicken,  with  peppers,  on  toast.  63 
'•        with  stuffed  peppers..  63 

corned  beef l."; 

salt  codfish.  New  England  style  62 
Hashed  chicken  and  ham  with  rice..  64 

Havraise  sauce 159 

Heart,  pigs LSI 

Heath  fowl,  salmis  of 19 

Herbs,  fine 81 

Herring 96 

baked  fresh ,  fennel  sauce 95 

"      stuffed 95 

bisque  of 17 

boiled  fresh,  cream  sauce. 9 

"     fresh,  shrimp  sauce 95 

boned  fresh,  on  toast 95 

broiled  fresh,  mustard  sauce...  95 

curried  fresh,  with  eggs 95 

fried  fresh,  mustard  butter 95 

salad 152 

soused 98 

Hickory 96 

Hoe  cakes 96 

Holiandalse  dressing 'M 

sauce 169 

Horseradish 96 

butter 26  &  9<i 

sauce 159 

Hominy 96 

boiled  «« 

croquettes 96 

Honey,  quince 146 

Hoofs  (pigs) 131 

Hot  slaw 27 

Hot  pot  or  hotch  potch 96 

Hulled  oom 66 


H-l-J-K-L 

Hunter's  style us 

Hussard  (garnish) 87 

Ice,  ap pie 3 

Icecream 70 

banana 7 

chocolate 67 

coffee 63 

peach...  138 

Iced  froths 96 

peaches 128 

snowballs 96 

Ices,  cup 96 

Imperial 96 

orange 96 

Icing,  chocolate 67 

Imperial  ices 96 

Indian  canapes 86 

omelet 117 

pudding 66 

stew  (oyster) 121 

Indlenne  sauce 169 

Irish  moss 96 

Irish  stew 96  &  111 

Isinglass 97 

Italian  salad 162 

sauce,  white  and  brown 160 

Jack  rabbit,  bisque  of 17 

Jam,  apricot 4 

blackberry 18 

cranberry 69 

grape 90 

orange 119 

rhubarb 148 

Jardiniere  (garnish) 97 

sauce 100 

Jellied  oranges 119 

Jelly 97 

apricot 97 

aspic 6 

blackberry 97 

calf's  feet 30 

cran  berry 69 

cherry 45 

fruit 97 

grape   90 

green  grape 91 

lemon 97 

maoedoine 9i 

orange 97 

peach 127 

pineapple 97 

pistachio 97 

plum 135 

quince 146 

raspberry 97 

rhubarb 14S 

ribbon 97 

Russian 97 

strawberry 97 

West  Indian 97 

Jennie  Lind  pancakes 8 

Johnny  cake 66 

"      apple 3 

Jolte  fllle  sauce 160 

Journeaux  (garnish) 87 

Jagged  hare 95 

JulUnne 97 

Juniper 97 

Kale 97 

salad 153 

Ketchup,  cucumber 73 

Khulash  or  goulash 97 

Kidney  beais 9 

"      in  cream 9 

••      Engllshstyle 9 

••      French  style 9 

"      German  style 9 

"      panaches ..    9 

Kidneys 97 

fat  (pigs) 181 

pigs 131 

Kirsch  or  klrschenwasser 6' 

KIrschwasser 98 

Klngflsh 97 

bolled,  sauce  Norma«de 4*7 

broiled,  lemon  butter 97 

with  fie  herbs 97 

fried  fillets  of,  breadcrumbed..  98 

saute,  sauce  Colbert 98 

Knockpolse  or  hard  smoked  Danith 

sausage 137 

Kohl  rabl »8 

Koumiss  98 

Kromeskles 71  &  9S 

of  sweetbreads 167 

Knmmel 65  &  V8 

Lake  trout  fried,  tomato  sauce 168 

Lamb,  blanquette  of 98 

boiled 98 

braised 9$ 


.^••^I 


Lamb,  eurrled 

ouUetsof 99 

eminoe  of 

epigramme  of . . .  98 

frioasaeeof 

bashed,  with  poached  egg 99 

fries 

•'    broohette  of 23 

kldners,  broohette  of 21 

noisettes  of,  alaMalnteDoii....li4 

ragout  of 

roast 98 

■ante  of 

scallops  of,  with  rice' 

atewed 

"      garnished 

sweetbreads  In  oases 99 

Larding  pork 131 

Larks,  bottcheeof 21 

lasagnes 99 

Leek 99 

Bonp,  Scotch  BtTle 99 

Leeks,  boiled 99 

t-emons 100 

cream 100 

dumplings 100 

extract  of 

jelly 97 

marmalade 100 

mincemeat 

■anoe  

soup 100 

trifle 100 

Lentils 100 

cream  of 100 

soup 100 

Lettuce 100 

baked  stuffed 101 

and  encumber  salad 101 

and  onion  salad 100 

salad 100&162 

and  tomnto  salad 100 

Lererpolse  or  lirer  sausage 137 

Lererpostej,    llverwnrst   or   Danish 

Uyer  sausaxe 138 

Lima  beans  boiled 

cream  of 9 

puree 9 

"      of 

salad 9&162 

saute 8 

Llmejulcer 101 

Limes iOl 

Limburger  cheese 43 

Llyer 101 

etaee^e,  Italian  style 81 

curried,  with  forcemeat lOi 

forcemeat  balls 32 

fried,  with  onions 101 

klosse 32 

pigs 131 

padding 101 

ragout  of  101 

and  salt  pork  101 

sau  te  of 101 

sausage 137  &  140 

Llvernalse  sauce 160 

Llyournalse  sauce 100 

L'.verwurst  sausage 138 

Lobster  In  aspic  cream 101 

baked,  In  shell 102 

blsqueof 17&103 

Bordelaise 102 

bouchee  of. 20  &  102 

broohette  of 22  &  102 

broiled  live 102 

butter 26 

cheese 101 

croquettes 102 

curried 102 

cntleu 102 

devilled 101 

escalloped 102 

fricassee  of 102 

an  gratln 101 

mayonnaise  of 101 

mazarlns  of 101 

ml  roton  of 101 

mulUgata  wney 1 03 

Newburg 102 

omelet 102 

and  oyster  pie 102 

patties 102 

rissoles  of 102 

salad 101  &  152 

salplcon  of 102 

sand  wlch 102 

sauce 160 

scalloped 101 

Bonp 103 


L-M 

Page 

Lobster  sonp,  Creole  style 108 

Mariner's  style. 1U3 

stewed 102 

stuffed 102 

toast 102 

with  tomatoes 102 

Locusts 108 

Lungs,  pigs 131 

Lyons  sausage 140 

Lyonnalse  sauce 16u 

Macaroni 108 

baked,  and  cheese 103 

buttered 104 

and  eheese,  French  style 103 

"        plain 103 

creamed 04 

"       wltheggs 104 

Creole  style 103 

croquettes 14 

with  fish  flakes 104 

Oenoise  style 1 04 

an  gratln 103 

with  ham 104 

Italian  style 118 

with  lamb  kidneys 104 

with  oyster  butter 104 

as  the  Monks  like  It 103 

and  oysters,  Milan  style 103 

padding 104 

with  sausages 104 

soup 

with  spinach  puree 104 

tlmbales  of 1U4 

"         "  and  forcemeat 104 

and  tomatoes 103 

with  tomato  puree 104 

Mace 105 

Maoedolne 105 

(garnish) 

Jelly 

salad 162 

Mackerel 106 

baked  flUeU  of 106 

"     stuffed  fillets  of 105 

boiled 106 

•'     salt 105 

broiled  salt , 105 

'•       stuffed 105 

buttered 106 

fillets  of.  sautes 106 

fried,  butter  sauce 106 

soused 105 

Madeira   106 

sauce 160 

Madelines 106 

Madras  canapes 36 

Malntenon  sauce 160 

Maltre  d'botel  batter 

sauce 106  &  160 

Mallard 106 

broiled,  maltre  d'hotel 106 

~  fillets  of.  game  sauce 

fried,  orange  sauce 106 

salmis  of 106 

provencale  style 106 

roast,  American  style 105 

M  ango 106 

Maraschino 65  &  106 

Marinade 106 

Marlniere  (garnish) 87 

Margarine 26 

Marjoram 106 

Marmalade 116  &  184 

apple 3 

apricot 4 

cherry 46 

lemon 100 

orange 119 

peach 127 

qulnoe 146 

Marrons 106 

Marrow 116 

bouoheewlth 20 

Marzi  pan 106 

Mastic 106 

Matelote  (garnish) 87  &  106 

sauce 160 

Mayonnaise  ; 106 

aspic 107 

of  celery 41 

chicken 66  4161 

of  lobster 101 

of  salmon 155 

sauce 161 

Masarins 107 

of  lobster 101 

Meat  olives  (pauplettes) 127 

Medallions 107 

Melons 107 

Melon  preserve 107 


M  i8t 

Menu urr 

Meringue lOr 

cherry 4t 

Mlgnons  de  boenf  aox  truffles 16 

Ml  lanalse  (garnish; 87  &  107 

omelet IIT 

sauoe ,.161 

Milt 107 

Mincemeat 107 

lemon 100 

Mint lOT 

saaoe 161 

Mook  turtle  sonp.  elear S0 

"     thick » 

Molasses log 

Montpeller  batter 96 

Mosaic  sausage 180 

Muffins,  corn rs 

Mullet 108 

Mulligatawny,  lobster 108 

Uuscallonge lOS 

Mushrooms 106 

baked,  on  toast 108 

bouoheewlth 31 

broiled 108 

caunp 109 

creamed  fresh U8 

in  or onstades 108 

fricassee  of 1084  109 

garnish 108 

omelet 100 

puree  of 108  4146 

rissoles 109 

sauce 108 

•'     (brown  and  white) 161 

sauteof 108 

stewed 108 

stuffed,  Creole  style 108 

"       Itallansauce 108 

"       on  toast irg 

Mussels 1C9 

breaded,  vlllerol  sauoe 109 

brochette  of 224109 

creamed 109 

fisherman  style 109 

fricassee  of 109 

fried U9 

Italian  style 109 

pan  roast  of 109 

sauce 119 

sautes  of  fine  herbs li  9 

scalloped 109 

steamed,  lemon  butter  sauce. .  1C9 

stewed li  9 

Mustard 113 

and  cress 110 

Mutton 110 

boiled  leg  of 110 

"      withturnlps Ill 

Mutton,  braised  breast  of,  Italian  so  ill 

"        larded  leg  of 110 

leg  of 110 

"  "    '•  with  beans  ...110 

"  "    "  with  veget'blslll 

"        boned  loin  of 1:3 

"        stuffed  leg  of 110 

Mutton,  breast  of,  withturnlps Ill 

brochette  of 22 

broiled  breasts  of    Ill 

casseroles  of 112 

Mutton  chop,  breaded,  beans  puree. 112 
"  "  mushroom  paree1I2 

"  "  perigueux  sauoellS 

"       braised,  garni  shed 113 

"       broiled,  farnisbed 114 

"  with  buttered  corn....  113 
"  fried  ItallaH  sauce...  112 
"       with  glased  ■ewcarotsl  12 

"       with  peas  puree 112 

"        with  potato  border. . . .  112 

"       provence  style 112 

"       saute,  sauce Soublse..  112 

'•       eouthernstyle 112 

"       with  truffles 112 

Mntton,  coated  cutlets  of Ill 

croustades  of,  with  poached  egg  113 

curry  of,  with  rice. 11 

Mutton  cutlets,  baked,  with  apples.. 113 
"         frled,reformegami8hll3 
sante,wlth  fine  herbs  113 

Mutton,  fried  breast  of Ill 

glased  breast  of HI 

haricotof Ill 

hashed,  with  peppers 113  4 113 

noisettes  of,  an  Madere 114 

pie,  English  style .  1 13 

ragoutof,  with  tomatoes HI 

rissoles  of.  sauce Hollandalse..  112 

roast  leg  of 1 10 

roUed  shoulder  of,  oyster  sauoe  HI 


182 


M-N-O 


O-P 


Mntton.  rolled  stuffed  breast  of 

•tew  wtth  vegetables 113 

stuffed  breast  of,  sance  Robert  111 

Nantaise  sauoe 161 

Napolitaine  (garaUh) 87 

sauce 161 

Nasturtium 1 14 

Navarln 114 

Neapolitan  bricks  86 

sauce 161 

Nectar 65 

Negus 66 

Neptune  cocktail 6U 

Nesselrode 114 

Neufchat«l 114 

NlceoiHO  sauce 161 

Nlvernalse 114 

(Karnlsh) 87 

Noisette 114 

Noisettes  d  'agneau 114 

de  veau  114 

Nonpareil  sance 161 

Noodles 114 

Normande  sauce 161 

Noyeaa 65  &  114 

Nutmeg 114 

Oatmeal 114 

Oberland  liver  sausage 141 

Oeuf  8  a  la  cocotte 59 

Okra 115 

salad 11D&153 

OUves 116 

canapes 36 

meat(pauplette8) 127 

^Uapodrlda 115 

Omelet 115 

Algerienne 117 

anchovy 2 

with  anchovies 117 

apricot 4 

artichoke 5 

asparagus 6 

with  asparagns  polnu 80  &  116 

with  bacon 79  &  115 

with  Brussels  sprouts 25 

with  calf's  brains 117 

with  calf '8 bead 2g&117 

calf  8  kidney 31 

with  capon 117 

wlthcepes 42&79&115 

cheese 44 

with  cheese 9&115 

of  chicken  livers 54  &  79  &  115 

with  chicken  puree 117 

cblpolata 117 

with  chipped  beef 79  &  116 

crab 68 

Creole 80&117 


Pace  I  Page 

111  Onions,  boiled 118 

braised 118 

creamed 118 

in  cream  sance 118 

fried 118 

glazed 118 

plcfcled 118 

puree  of 145 

Onion  puree 18 

•'      brown 119 

"     with  flsb  quenelles 119 

Onion  salad 118  &  152 

Onion  sauce 

"    whiteand  brown 161 

Onion  soup  with  cheese  canapes 

"      with  crusts 118 

Onions  on  toast 

stewed 118 

vinegar 118 

Opossum 119 

Oranges,  boucbee  of 21 

compote  of 119 

canape  of 119 

fritters 83*119 

ices 

jam 119 

jellied 119 

Jelly 

marmalade 119 

pie .119 

baked,  pudding 119 

with  rice 119 

sauce 119  &  161 

trifle 119 

Ortolan 119 

broiled 120 

bouchee  of 21 

brochetteof 120 

incases 120 

incronstade 120 

fried 120 

roast 120 

truffled 120 

Ox  tails,  braised,  with  kidney  beans.  16 

clear 13 

curried,  with  spaghetti 16 

curry  of 

haricot  of 16&120 

saute  of. 

soup 120 

"    clear 120 

thick..  13 

Oxtongue,  boiled 120 

braised  fresh 121 

plokllngof 132 

smoked,  German  style... 121 

Ox  palates,  bouchee  with 21 

Oysters,  bacon-coated,  fried 122 


with  custard  cream 117' Oysters,  baked,  with  cheese 122 


witheggplant W&Ue 

flnandere 117 

with  fine  herbs 79&116 

with  fole  gras ll'i  I 

with  French  or  small  green 

peas 80ftll6 


.79  &  116 

Indian 117 

with  jelly 117 

withlambktdnera T9*116 

lobster 102 

with  marmalade 117 

with  meringue 117 

Milanaise 117 

with  minced  chicken 80  ft  116 

mushroom .109 

with  mushrooms 79  &  116 

with  olives 80  ft  116 

with  onions 116 

•yster 123 

with  oysters 80  ft  116 

with  parsley 80  ft  116 

with  puree  of  game 117 

with  rum 117 

■avory ,  of  calf's  brains 25 

with  scallops 117 

■hrtmp 117 

with  shrimps,  Mexican  sty  79  &  116 

with  shrimp  paste 117 

■onffle 117 

Spanish 80  ft  lit 

with  spinach 80  ft  116 

with  spring  vegetables. ...  H)  ft  1 16 

with  sweetbreads 79  ft  11^ 

withtomatoes 80  ft  1 16 

with  tomatoed  rloe 80  4  116 

with  truffles 117 

with  turkey  livers 117 

with  veal  kidneys 79ft  1i5 

OBlona,  baked,  stalled 118 


Italian  style 

"       with  ZBusbrooms 122 

"       with  potatoes 

bisque  of 17 

Boston  stew 121 

bonchees 124 

boucheeof 

breaded,  celery  sauce 124 

broohetteof 21ftl22 

broiled 121 

.121 
.121 


of. 


in  casserole 128 

with  celery 123 

oockUil ... 

creamed  on  toaat 123 

cream  stew 121 

croquettes 128 

oroustadeof 132 

curried 128 

cutlets  minced 124 

devilled 131 

drystew 122 

eplgramme  of. U3 

fancy  fr> 122 

fricassee  of 122 

fried 122 

glaxed.  on  toaat 122 

gumbo « 124 

Indian  stew 121 

loaf 122 

omelet  123 

patties 123 

panned 121 

Philadelphia  stew 121 

pie 123 

plain  stew 121 

pot  pie 128 

rissoles  124 

roast  skell 121 


Page 

Oysters,  salad 163 

sandwich 124 

sauce 123  ft  161 

sauce-coated,  fried 123 

scalloped 121 

soup 124 

steamed 123 

stew 121 

stulTed  and  broiled 122 

stuffing 124 

supreme  of 123 

toast 123 

Oyster  crabs,  fried 69 

Newburg 6» 

patties 69 

"       sauce  poulette 69 

Oyster  plamt,  boiled 124 

•'       fried 124 

"       fritters 124 

"       salad 152 

"       sauce  poulette 124 

"       saute ....  124 

"       stewed 1»4 

Pancakes i:4 

apple 3 

Berlin   73 

French 8 

Jenny  Llnd 8 

Swiss 8 

Panned  oysters 121 

PapiUote  sauce 162 

Parisian  (garnish) 68 

Parmesan  cheese 124 

Parsley 124 

sance 161 

Parsnip l  5 

baked 125 

cream  sance 125 

fried  in  batter 125 

fritters 83  ft  125 

mashed 125 

santees 126 

Partridge  with  bacon,  parsley  aance.l'.G 

bisque  of 17 

boiled 125 

"    garnished .125 

braised,  with  cabbage 126 

breadcrumbed  and  broiled 12t> 

breast  of,  glazed  vegetables 126 

•'  larded  and  fried 125 

"       "  sauce  Colbert 125 

broiled 125 

croquettes,  sauce  perigueux . .    126 

croustades  of 126 

emlnoe  of 126 

epigrammeof,  with  mushrooat  125 

fillets  of ,  with  crayfish r.-6 

"    Parisian  style 126 

bashed,  with  egg 126 

larded  and  braised 126 

patties 126 

rissoles,  sauce  Bichelien  126 

roast 1 26 

salad 126ftl63 

salmi  of 1?5 

salpioon  of 126 

•ante 126 

'■     withrliaoto. 136 

stewed 136 

Pascaline  sauoe 161 

Paste, aacbovy 2 

Patties,  apricot 4 

asparagus 6 

beef ,  with  mushrooms 14 

brain 26 

of  calf's  kidneys 31 

of  carp  roes 88 

celery 41 

chicken,  sapreme  sauce 61 

codfish  tongue 62 

egg 78 

lobster 1(3 

oyster 123 

oyster  crab 69 

partridge 126 

potato .143 

of  scrambled  calf's  sweetbr'ds .  33 

of  sweetbreads 167 

turkey 171 

Panplette 127 

Paupiettes of  cabbage  ....  27 

Paysanne  (garnish) 87 

Peach 127 

ambrosia 127 

butter 127 

charlotte 128 

chartreuse 128 

cobbler 128 

orontons  with  glaxed  fruits 128 

dumplings 128 


p 

Ps^e 

PMoh,  fritters ^3&12!) 

ice 128 

jelly 127 

mannalade lv7 

pie 128 

fibortcake 18 

tartlettes 128 

trifle 128 

Peaches,  bOQctaee  of 2i 

bottled 128 

brandy 127 

compote  of 127 

wltkcream 12T 

iced 128 

with  rice 127 

with  rice  croquettes 127 

■plced 127 

Peanut 128 

Pear 128 

alllKator 1 

Peas 129 

pureeof 129&145 

pnddluK 129 

Pepper 129 

bntter 26 

Peppermint 129 

PeppAr  pot 129 

Perch 129 

PeriKoenz  (gamuh) 87 

(sauce) 129  A  161 

Persimmon 129 

Pheasant 130 

braised 130 

broUed 130 

roast 130 

Philadelphia  capon 37 

clam  chowder 58 

scrapple 164 

stew  (oyster)...  121 

Pie,  apple 3 

"      custard 3 

beefsteak  and  kidney 14 

'•  '•     mushroom. 14 

"  "     oyster 14 

blackberry 18 

blackbird 18 

cherry 46 

"     deep 45 

chicken 46 

"      small,  French  style 47 

cod  and  oyster 123 

"     "        "     French  style 61 

cranberry 69 

glblet 54  &  89 

"     and  potato 54 

lobster  and  oyster 102 

mutton,  English  style 113 

orange  119 

oytter 123 

peach 128 

pigeon 133 

pumpkin '45 

rabtJt 147 

rhubarb 148 

steak  and  ojster 123 

Teal  and  oyster 1T2 

Tenison 178 

Pleallili 130 

Pickle 130 

Pickles 130 

Pickle  pumps 130 

Pickled  beets 16 

cabbnfie 27 

cauliflower 40 

cucumbers 72 

onloDS 118 

Pickling  beef  and  hams 130 

for  hams  or  Calif,  shoulders....  133 

of  01  tongues 132 

of  relied  hams 132 

Pled  de  cochon. . .  59 

Pi«eoni 133 

braised,  with  flaareolets 134 

garnished 134 

breastaof 134 

•ompote  of 133 

oronstade 133 

curried 33 

"     wlthrlce 133 

frioasseeof 134 

larded,  garnished 133 

pie 133 

potted 183 

roast.  133 

"    withtomatoee 184 

salmidof i:« 

saute  of 184 

■tewed,  with  mushrooms 1S3 

■luffed,  with  potatoes 133 

"        with  Tegetables 183 


P 

Papp 

Pineapple  fritters 83 

jelly 97 

Pintail 134 

PIquante  (sauce) 134  &  162 

Pistaohio 134 

jelly 97 

Pig  products 130 

Pigs  bladders 131 

blood :31 

bones   131 

brain 131 

caul 131 

ears 131 

feet 131 

gall 135 

gut  fat 131 

bam 131 

head  stuffed 131 

heart 131 

kidneys 131 

"       brochetteof 131 

kidney  fat 131 

liver 131 

lungs 131 

shoulders 131 

■kin 131 

snout 131 

spleen 131 

stomach 131 

tail 131 

tongue 131 

Plain  stew  (oyster) 121 

Planked  shad 164 

Plovers,  bisque  of 17 

breast  of.  en  salmi 134 

"       "   with  sweetbreads....  134 

broiled,  on  toast 134 

roast 134 

Plum  butter 134 

cake 185 

jelly 136 

marmalade 134 

pudding 135 

Plums 134 

boucheesof 21 

Polvrade  sance 162 

Polenta 66 

Polish  sausage 141 

Polonaise  sauce 162 

Pompano  135 

Pop  corn 67 

Porgie 135 

Pork  andbesns,  baked 9 

Pork,  boned  boiled  salt  leg  of 136 

Pork  chops,  broiled 136 

fried 136 

"        sautees 136 

Pork,  cold  rolled  belly  of , stuffed  oliTel36 

croquettes,  anchovy  sauce 136 

emtnce  of,  with  fried  apples 136 

*       frledsalt  withapples 136 

"     kidneys 13F 

larding 136 

minced,  with  fried  apples 136 

roast  loin  of 136 

"     lego* 135 

salt,  with  parsnips 136 

sausages 1S6&141 

sausage  seasoning 141 

stuffed  leg  of 136 

Pork  tenderloin,  braisod 135 

broiled 135 

"         corned 135 

"         curried 13f 

"         stuffed 135 

"         with  sweet  potatoes  135 

Portuguese  sauce 162 

Potage  a  la  comtesse 35 

Potato  casseroles 143 

croquettes US 

staffed 143 

fritters 143 

patties 143 

puffs 143 

quenelles 143 

ragout 143 

satMl 153 

soup 144 

Potatoes  142 

Anglalse 1<4 

baked  in  their  skins 142 

barigoule 144 

Bernhardt 14' 

blgnonnp 144 

when  boiling 142 

brabanconce 144 

brabant 144 

bre  tonne 144 

broiled 14.'> 

incases  143 


P  183 

Pa«e 

Potatoes,  chateau 144 

ooibert 144 

oonde 144 

cottage  fried 142 

Creole 143 

eurried 148 

duchesse.  143 

to  extract  frost  from ...  142 

French  fried 42 

Genevolse   144 

German  fried 142 

glazed 143 

home  fried 142 

gastronome 144 

hashed  brown  142 

"         Incream 142 

Hollandalse  143 

Indienne 142 

julienne 142 

Lyonnalse 142 

Marie 143 

"     I44 

maltred'hoUl 143 

Monaco 144 

Navarraise 148 

Orslni 143 

Farlslenne 142 

pureeof 145 

Beiu 14 

saute 142 

"     home  fried,  cottage  fried, 

Oermanfried 142 

scalloped 142 

in  steaming 142 

stewed  with  bacon — 142 

"       incream 142 

"       Parisienne 143 

stuffed 143 

Victoria 143 

vUlageolse 1 43 

Pot  pie,  beef 14 

chicken 46 

giblet 54 

oyster 123 

Pot  roast. . .  10 

Potted  cheese 44 

chicken  for  sandwiches F3 

ham,  canapes  of 35 

pigeon 133 

rabbit 146 

tongue,  canapes  of 35 

Ponlette 144 

sauce 144  &I62 

Pralines 67 

Prairie  ehioken 144 

broiled 144 

"       roasted 144 

"       salmis  of 144 

Prawns,  bisque  of 17 

Preserve,  melon 107 

Preserved  pumpkin  rind 146 

Prickly  pear 128 

Provencal*  (garnish) 88 

sauce 1 45  &  168 

Pudding,  apple 3 

baked  farina 81 

"       orange 119 

black 19 

blackberry 18 

boiled  farina 61 

cheese 44 

cherry 46 

chocolate 57 

date 78 

farina,  baked,  boiled 81 

grated  com f7 

Indian 66 

liver 101 

macaroni 104 

peas 129 

plum i?b 

Pnfls 146 

apple 3 

Pumpkin 146 

baked 146 

pie 146 

puree 146 

rind,  preserved 146 

Punch 66 

Roman 149 

Puree 14» 

of  artichokes 146 

ssparagas 6 

of  asparagus 146 

beans  with  onions 9 

of  beans  a  la  Boublse 9 

of  Bermuda  onions 118 

brown  onion 119 

of  carrots 146 

of  celery i» 


«84 


P-Q-R 


Fa«re 

Puree  of  celery  and  onions 41 

of  chestnuts 146 

of  Chicken..  56 

"       "  wlthtomatoedquenelles  56 

crecy 39  &  71 

of  cucumbers 71 

baricot  beans 9 

limabeans 9 

of  lima  beans 140 

of  mushrooms 1U8  &  146 

onion .118 

"     with  fish  quenelles 119 

of  onions 145 

of  peas 129  &  145 

pumpkin 145 

of  seakale 146 

of  spinach 145 

of  tomatoes US 

Quahaug 146 

Quail    146 

roast 146 

Queen  irltters — 83 

Quince  honey 146 

jelly 140 

marmalade 146 

Babbit,  blanquette  of 147 

boudlnof 21 

braised,  with  tomato  sauce 146 

brochetteof 23 

broiled 147 

"       saddle  of 146 

cnrrled  with  rice 148 

cutlets,  fried 147 

"      tomato  sauce 147 

devilled 147 

eoi^amme  of 147 

fillets  garnished,  so.  perlgueuz.147 

fricassee  of 146 

minced,  on  toast 147 

pie U7 

potted .  ..140 

ragout  of 147 

saute  of 147 

salplcon  of 147 

smothered,  with  onions 147 

stewed,  German  style 146 

"        with  vegetables 147 

Radish  salad ]j3 

Kalfort  sauce 1'3 

Rameqnins,  cheese   43 

Barebit,  egg 78 

Welsh 43 

Yorkshire 43 

Baspberrles 148 

Raspberry  Jelly 97 

vinegar 14H 

Ratafia 65 

Kavlgote  butter 

sauce 148&t62 

Ravloles 148 

Reform  sauce   103 

Regency  (garnish) hg 

sauce 16o 

Red  cabbage  salad 27 

"        stewed,  with  sausages..  27 
Red  grouper,  baked,  Spanish  sauce..  92 

Red  haricot  beans » 

Red  pepper 1 29 

Redsnapper,  baked 148 

boiled 148 

broiled .  148 

saute 148 

stuffed ..148 

Reedbirds,  bonchee  of 21 

brochetteof 23 

Reine  claude 91 

Kemoulade  sauce 163 

Rhubarb  compote 148 

withcubtard 148 

fritters .149 

Jam   148 

Jelly 148 

meringue 149 

pie 148 

Ribbon  Jelly, 97 

Rice. 149 

croquettes 149 

croustadeaof 149 

fritters 83 

griddlecakes 8 

Riceblrds,  bouchee  of 21 

Richelieu  (garnish) 88 

sauce 103 

Blssoles 149 

of  sweetbreads W 

Blssolettes...  82  4149 

Bobert  sauce 163 

Boe 149 

Bauoe .168 

fiO 


R-S 

Pagel 

Rolypoly 149( 

apple 3' 

cherry 45 1 

Romaine  salad 153 1 

Roman  punch 1?9 

Roquefort  cheese 

UKuennalse  (garnish) 

Roulade 149 

Roux 149 

Royal  custards 149 

sauce l^°3 

Royale  (garnish) 88 

Russian  JeUy 97 

salad 153 

sauce 16i 

Rye 150 

Sage  sauce 163 

Salad,  alligator  pear 1' 0 

anchovy  2  &  150 

artichoke l&u 

"         and  onion 5 

"        and  tomato 6 

asparagus 6&150 

"         and  cauliflower 6 

"         and  salmon 6 

banana 7 

bean ....150 

beet  and  egg 1 7  &  1. 0 

"    and  potato 17  &  150 

cabbage 27  &  150 

carrot,  with  asparagus  tips 39 

cauliflower 40  &  150 

celery IhO 

chicken 66  &  151 

chicory 15i 

codflsh U0| 

combination 154 

corn 671 

crab 68  &  151 

cre«s 151 

cucumber 72  &  !■'  1 

and  onion 72 

dandelion 1 51 

eel 77&151 

egg 151 

egg  plant 151 

endive 151 

French 151 

game 152 

gardeners 151, 

German 151 

potato 152 

berrlDg It2 

Italian. .„ 1521 

kale 152, 

lettuce 100&152| 

'     andcucumber Wl 

"      andonicn lOOi 

"     andtomato It'O 

lima  bean 9  &  152 

lobster 101  &  152 

macedolne '52 

okra 115*153 

onion Ii8  &I62 

oyster 152 

oyster  plant 153 

partridge 120<S:153 

potato Ii3 

red  cabbage ,*" 

radish 153 

Bumalne 153 

Russian 183 

Balslfy Is3 

salmon i^« 

sardine J53 

Pcotch  153 

shrimp 153 

Southern '58 

Spanish 153 

Swedish 153 

sweetbread SS&Jj'^ 

tartare 153 

tomato 1^ 

veal 154 

watercress « 

Salamander Jo* 

Salami }« 

de  Verona 1*1 

Salisbury  steak  with  grilled  potatoes  13 

"      with  mushrooms 13 

Sally  Lnnn..    164 

Salmi— Salmis 154 


Page 

166 

158 

166 

"        canapes  of 85 

steaks  or  cutlets 154 


Salmon,  baked.  , 

boiled 

bonobeeof., 

broiled , 

bisque  of . 


154 

154 

21 

154 

17 

(cold,  boiled) 154 

eroqnettee 161 


"       broiled 1  8 

'        fame 168 

Salplcon,  bouchee  with 21 

Salsify 155 

salad 153 

Salted  almonds 1 

Sandwich,  anchovy 3 

cheese 44 

lobster 103 

oyster 124 

potted  beef  for 16 

Saratoga  chips 143 

Sardines,  bouchee  of 31 

Sardine  canapes 86 

liver  sausage 1894140 

salad 158 

Sarsaparilla,  extract  of 81 

Saster  sausage 143 

Sauce,  adm Iral 155 

Albert 165 

allema  nde 156 

almond If  5 

anchovy 2  &  166 

andaluslan 155 

aprlcct 4  4155 

aurora 156 

avignon 156 

Bavarian 156 

Bearnalse 1F>6 

bechamel 70  4166 

Bey  rout 166 

biirarade 166 

Bohemian • 156 

Bordelaise,  brown  and  white.  ..156 

bourgeoise 156 

bourglgnotte.  ..  156 

brandy 23 

Bressolse 156 

Bretonne,  hot  and  cold 156 

caper  156 

"      forflf-h 1.S6 

cardinal 166 

carrot 156 

cauliflower 40  4  156 

celery,  white  and  orown 166 

chadeau 167 

chambord 167 

oh  ampa  gne 157 

chautauHen 167 

chasseur 156 

Chateaubriand 167 

chaudfroid 1K7 

cherry 167 

chevrenll.  ...  157 

chili 157 

C'laremont 157 

claret 167 

col  bert 1 57 

court- bouillon 157 

crab 69 

cranberry 168 

crapaudlne 157 

cream 70 

Creole 157 

crevptte 157 

cucumber 157 

Curacoa 168 

curry 167 

custard 158 

Cznrlna 1R7 

diable 158 

dlplomate 158 

dovee 159 

duchesse 168 

Dutch 76 

d'uxelles 158 

egg 158 

espagnole 163 

fennel 814  158 

flnanclere 168 

fine  herbs 814188 

flen-lsh 168 

fnmet 169 

Oenevolse  169 

Genolse 1*9 

German 159 

giblet 644894159 

Godard 169 

gol  en  169 

gooseberry 904169 

ham.... 169 

Hanover 169 

bard UB 


Paire 

8aaoe.  Harrogate 

Hayralse   

Bollandalae  159 

horseradish 169 

Indlenne 159 

IiaUan.  white  and  brown 160 

jardjnlere 160 

joileflUe 160 

lemon IfO 

llvernalKe I'iO 

llvournalse 100 

lo  bsier 160 

IjyoDoaise  160 

Madeira 160 

main  tenon 

maltre  a'hotel 160 

matelote IWi 

mayonnaise 161 

MUanaise 161 

mint' 161 

mushroom 108 

'•  white  and  brown 16 

mussel lOy 

Nantalse 161 

NapoUtalno 161 

Neapolitan 161 

NIoeolse 161 

nonpareil 161 

Normande 161 

onluo 118 

"      whlteandbrowB 161 

orange 119&i6l 

oyster .123  &  161 

papUlotte 162 

parsley 161 

pasoallne 161 

perluneux 161 

plquante 162 

poWrade 162 

polonaise 

PortuKuese 1  fS 

poulette 144  &  162 

provencale 162 

Ralfort 163 

ravlKOte 148&162 

ref  orme 1 63 

reven  oy 163 

remoulade 163 

Richelieu 163 

Robert 163 

roe 163 

royal 163 

Russian U3 

eage 163 

scallop 163 

shrimp 

shallot 

Sicilian 163 

sorrel 

•oublse 163 

8te.  Menehould 163 

Bultana 163 

supreme 163 

tartare 164 

tomato 164 

lortu 164 

Toulouse 164 

trlanon 164 

turtle 164 

Venltlenne 164 

Verjuice ...  16* 

verte-pre 164 

vinalprette 164 

Yorkshire 164 

Pance  coated  oysters,  fried 122 

Bauerkrant 27 

Bausage  Bavarian 137 

beef 16&138 

blood :38 

"      »ench 138 

"      North  Germany 138 

Bologna 138 

Italian 139 

cakes  with  potatoes 16 

Cambridge 139 

cervelat,  Brunswick 139 

cervelatapolse 137 

chicken,  ham  and  tongue ..140 

"       sauce  HoUandaise 53 

Coblen  tz 1 39 

crab 68 

Danish  beef  and  pork 137 

liver 138 

smoked 137 

Epplng 139 

Frankfort   140 

goose  liver,  truffled 140 

hard  smoked  Danish 137 

knackwnrst 14^ 

knookpolse 137 


Bausage.  leverpolse 137 

leverpostej 138 

leverwurst 138 

liver   137 

Lyons  (German  recipe) Ud 

mosaic  139 

oberland  liver 141 

Polibh 141 

pork 13fi&141 

sardine  and  liver 139&140 

saster 

seasoning,  pork 141 

smoked 141 

t<>nderIoln 14 

Tburinglan  red 141 

tomato 142 

truffled  liver 14. 

veal 142 

Welnerpolse 

Welnerwurst 141) 

Wesiphalian 142 

HaTory  canapes 36 

tjcallops ...164 

brocbett«  of 

cheese 43 

sauce 163 

Scotch  beef  soup 13 

canapes 

salad 153 

Scrapple 164 

Seakale 164 

puree  of 146 

Beasoning,  porksausage 141 

SemoUna 164 

Bhad 164 

baked 164 

■'    stuffed 165 

boiled 165 

fried 165 

planked '..164 

roe 

Shaddock  91  &  166 

Shallot 166 

sauce 

Hheepshead 165 

Sherbet,  aprloot 4 

cherry 45 

Shortbread...  166 

Shortcake  apple 

blackberry 18 

peach 128 

Shortribs,  beef 10 

Bhouiders  (pigs)   131 

Shrimp 165 

bisque  of 17 

butter 26 

canapes  of Sit 

omelet 117 

salad 63 

sauce 163 

Bbmb 65 

Sicilian  sauce 163 

Kkln  (pigs)  131 

Smelts 165 

brochette  of 22 

Smoked  sausage  or  knack wurst 141 

Snipe 166 

boucheeof 21 

Snout,  pigs 13 1 

Snow  balls,  Iced 96 

Soft  shell  crabs,  boiled  69 

broiled 69 

"         "       curried 69 

"       fried 69 

"        "       steamed 69 

Soles 165 

Sole,  bouchee  of 21 

Sorrel 165 

sauce 163 

Sonblse  (garnish) 88 

sauce 163 

Souffle 165 

cbeese 44 

Sour  pot  roast 10 


Soups 166 

apple 3 

artichoke 6 

asparagus 6 

beef  kidney 16 

button  onion,  with  peas 119 

calf's  head,  Portuguese  style. . .  29 
with  quenelles.  ...  29 

carrot 39 

chantUly 42 

chestnut «6 

Soup,  chicken,  Bngllsh  style 65 

glblet 64 

•       wlthnoodles 66| 


8  x85 

Page 

Soup,  obloken,  with  peas  puree 66 

PurtuKuese  style 66 

'         with  rice  and  leeks...  66 

"        Southein  style 66 

"         Turkish  style 66 

"         with  vegetables 66 

Soup,  clear  mock  turtle 29 

"     oxtail 120 

(lam 69 

cuck-a  leekle 65 

cukie  leekle 69 

Colbert »2 

corn 67 

••    and  tomato 67 

crab  gumbo 69 

ducks  gibet 76 

KngllKh  beef 13 

Soup, glblet 89 

"     clear 89 

"    with  rice 89 

Soup,  green  pea 129 

"     turtle 171 

haricot  bean,  family  style 9 

leek,  Scotch  style «9 

lemon UiQ 

lentil 100 

lobster 1  'JS 

"    Creolestyle 103 

"    mariner's  btyle 1(8 

macaroni 104 

mock  turtle,  thick 29 

onion,  with  cheese  canapes....  118 

"       with  crusts 118 

oxtail 120 

'      cleaT  and  thick 13 

oyster 124 

potato 144 

Scotch  beef 18 

split  pea 129 

sweetbread 86  4  167 

turkey  171 

turtle,  clear 171 

Spaghetti 165 

Spanish  fries 59 

omelet 80  &  116 

pufli' 67 

puff  fritters 88 

salad U3 

Spiced  peaches 127 

Spinach 166 

puree  of 146 

Spleen,  pigs 131 

Split  pea  soup 129 

Spring  chicken  in  batter,  fried  onions  52 

devilled  green  peas..  f2 

"        fried,  artich'k  bot'n.s  52 

"         fried,  hominy  fritters  53 

Spring  duck,  roast,  applesauce 76 

Spring  lamb,  brochette  of 22 

Spring  turkey,  various  ways 169 

bqoabs 165 

sauce  crapaudlne 134 

Squash 165 

Squirrel 166 

Stanley  (garnish) 89 

Steak  and  oyster  pie 123 

Ste  Menehould  banoe 163 

Sterlet 166 

Stilton  (cheese) 165 

Stomach  (piKS) 131 

Strawberries 166 

Strawberry  jelly 97 

Stuffing,  anchovy 2 

Sturgeon 166 

Succotash 166 

Sultana  sauce 163 

Supreme  of  chicken 47 

(garnish) 89 

of  oysters 123 

sauce ...163 

Swedish  salad If3 

Swiss  canapes 86 

Sweetbreads 166 

blanquette  of 1 66 

boucheeof 20 

braised  a  la  Montglas 33 

"      sauce  Bearnaise 34 

"      with  vegetables If6 

breaded,  sauce  tartare 34 

brochette  of .  22  4  167 

broiled .167 

with  brown  butter HI 

calf's,  different  styles 82 

casseroleof 166 

en  ooqulUe 38 

"        augratin 83 

cromesqules  of 167 

croquettes  of 16(1 

cronstadeaof 101^ 


z86 


S-T 


Pajte 

Sweetbreads,  curry  of 166 

outleis  alaNlyernalse 

eplgramme  of lt>6 

"  sauce  bechamel.  34 
f rioandeau  of,  wltH  chicory. . . . 

fricassee  of IBfj 

"         "  and  mushrooms 34 

fried. 

"     Colbert  sauce 166 

"     stuffed 166 

wlthkidueys   116 

lamb,  In  cases 99 

larded,  Toulouse  garnish 166 

'•        Toulouse  ruguut 34 

medallions  of.  166 

patties  of 167 

roast 167 

salad 36  &  l.^a 

salpioOD  of 167 

■aute  a  la  flnanclere 33 

scalloped 166 

scallops  of  with  potato  croquets 

"wlthTonlouseragout  34 

scrambled,  with  eggs 

soup   35  &  167 

with  spinach 

and  truffles  in  shell 34 

vol-au-rent  of,  and  mushrooms  33 

Tall,  ilgs 131 

Tapioca Iti7 

Tarragon    1 67 

Tartare  salad 163 

sauce 164 

Tartaric  acid  167 

Tartlnes,  anchovy 1 

caviar 40 

Tartlettes,  apricot 

blackberry 

cranberry 70 

peach 128 

Tart,  apple 3 

Tarts,  cherry 46 

Teal 1 67 

Tenderloin  sausage 141 

Terrapin 167 

baked .  IB- 
bisque  of 17 

Maryland  style 167 

Tlmbales  cabbage 27 

Then  Marine 169 

ThnrlDglan  red  sausage 141 

Tomatoes 168 

puree  of 145 

■alad 163 

sauce 164 

sausages 142 

stuffed  with  crab 68 

Tomatoed  Hamburger 94 

Tongue,  braised  fresh,  sauce  Italian.  121 
boiled  smoked,  sauce  plqaante.121 


T-V 

Page 
Tongue,  smoked,  with  saaerkraat...  15 

Toriillas 6« 

Tortu  (garnish) 89 

Tortue  ur  turtle  sauce 164 

Toulouse  (garnish) 89 

sauce   Ib4 

Trianon  sauce 164 

Trifle 168 

lemon 100 

cherry 

orange 119 

peach 

Tripe,  Creole  style 168 

various  ways 

Trout 

bakedstuffed 168 

boiled,  shrimp  sauce 168 

braised,  matelote 169 

filleted,  fried,  with  bacon 16:) 

Trout  steaks,  baked  169 

"       sauce  trlanon 

TrufBes 169 

Truffled  liver  sausage 140 

Tunny,  "Thon  Marine" 169 

Turnips 171 

Turtle 171 

soup,  clear 171 

Turkey 169 

blanquette  of 170 

boiled,  oyster  sauce 1k9 

stuffed 170 

boned  170 

braised 170 

brocbotte  of...  23 

broiled  spring 169 

creamed  coUops  of  170 

croquettes 170 

oroustades  of 171 

galantine  of 84  &  171 

hashed,  with  egg 170 

legs,  stuffed  young 170 

livers,  brochette of 22 

patties  and  vol-au  vents 171 

roast  spring,  oyster  sauce 1^9 

•'     stuffed 169 

salads  and  soups 171 

salpicon  of 171 

stewed  spring.  Southern  style.  1'  9 

wings,  fricassee  of 17 1 

Vanilla 171 

extract  of 81 

Veal,  blanquette  of 172 

boudln  of 21  &  172 

brochette  of 22 

chops,  broiled 173 

croquettes  of 172 

crousiade  of 172 

curry  of 173 

outlets,  garnished 171 

"        sauteed 172 

eminceof 172 


V-W-Y 

Page 

Veal,  forcemeat  or  godlvean.  88 

fricandeuu  ot,  with  vegetables.  172 

galantine  of 173 

grenadine  of,  with  spinach 172 

and  Of  star  pie 172 

roast  loin  or  neck  of 172 

roll  with  tongue 171 

salad 164 

salpioon  of 173 

sausages 142 

scallops  of,  Italian  sauce 173 

stewed  breast  of 173 

tlmbales  of 172 

Vegetables,  fry  In  batter 8 

Teloute  sauce 164 

Venison 173 

civet  of 178 

pie 178 

Venl tienne  sanoe 164 

Verjuice  sauce  164 

Vermicelli 178 

Vermouth 65  &  173 

Verona  salami 141 

Verte  pre  sauce 164 

Vinaigrette  sauce 164 

Vinegar 173 

onion 118 

raspberry 148 

Vol-au-veut 167  &  173 

apricot 4 

brain 25 

of  chicken  with  quenelles —      61 
of  sweetbreads  and  mushrooms  33 

turkey 171 

Waffles 173 

corn 66 

Walnut 178 

Watercress  canapes 71 

salad 154 

Water  Ices,  fancy  (several  kinds) ....  96 

"     cherry 45 

aerated 1 

Wax  beans 9 

Wienerpolse  or  Bavarian  sausage. .  .137 

Welnerwurst  sausage 140 

Welsh  rarebit 43 

West  Indian  jelly 97 

Westphallan  sausage 142 

Wheat  griddle  cakes 8 

WhI pped  cream 70 

Wblteflsh 173 

Wintergreen,  extract  of 81 

Woodcock 1T3 

boucbee  of 21 

Yarmouth  bloaters,  baked.  In  sauce..  19 

"  sautes 19 

Yorkshire  buck,  old  fashioned 43 

pudding 8 

rarebit 43 

sance 161 


Popular    Handbooks 

for    Hotel,  Restaurant,    Transportation 
Catering,  Institution  and  Club  Use 


The  Epicurean  (Ranhofer) $7.00 

The  king  of  cook  books  is  "The  Epicurean,"  by- 
Charles  Ranhofer,  of  Delmonico's.  This  book  is 
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The  first  chapter  is  devoted  to  table  service,  with 
instruction  in  menu-making  and  the  care  and 
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144  pages  of  menus  for  breakfasts,  luncheons, 
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soups,  251  sauces,  133  garnishes,  191  sid§  dishes, 
101  shell  fish,  218  fish,  165  beef,  165  veal,  75 
mutton,  109  lamb,  48  pork,  224  poultry,  163 
game,  198  miscellaneous  entrees,  67  salads,  172 
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The  Palmer  House  Cook  Book  (Amiet) $3.00 

Here  is  the  book  you  have  been  waiting  for  . . .  the 
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The  author  was  chef  of  Hotel  St.  Francis.  San 
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The  Edgewater  Salad  Book  (Shirclifle) $5.00 

Contains  more  than  600  tested  recipes  for  salads 
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many  a  short  sermon  on  the  importance  of  right 
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human  interest  in  the  way  of  anecdote,  legend 
and  historic  events.  In  this  way  it  is  more  than 
a  cook  book — it  is  readable  to  those  who  are  not 
so  much  interested  in  how  to  make  salads  as  in 
the  enjoyment  of  them.  The  great  charm  of  the 
book  is  the  illustrations,  which  are  from  direct 
photographs  in  the  natural  colors,  so  that  the 
dishes  illustrated  have  the  eye-appeal  and  the 
enticing  qualities  of  the  real  dish.  It  is  a  book 
that  fits  into  every  kitchen — home,  hotel,  club, 
hospital,  restaurant,  lunch  room,  cafeteria,  steam- 
ship, dining  car,  industrial  catering  plant,  insti- 
tution, army  mess — in  fact,  wherever  information 
is  desired  as  to  the  why  and  how  to  prepare  for 
the  table. 

The  Edgewater  Salad  PortfoHo  (Shircliffe) $2.00 

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The  Edgewater  Sandwich  Book  (Shircliffe) $2.00 

Supplemented  with  chapters  on  hors  d'oeuvres, 
supremes,  canapes  and  relishes.  More  than  600 
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room,  tea  room  and  high-class  restaurant.  Bound 
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A  Selection  of  Dishes  and  the  Chef's  Reminder 
(Fellows)     $1.00 

The  book  that  has  met  with  the  largest  sale  and 
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cooks.  It  Is  In  vest  pocket  form,  220  pages.  The 
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book  to  culinary  matters  that  has  ever  been  pub- 
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of  the  word,  but  Is  full  of  Ideas  and  suggestions 
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cooks   understand   the   basic   work   in   preparingr 


dishes,  and  the  sauces  and  garnishes  are  treated 
separately,  with  information  as  to  their  com- 
ponent parts.  Thousands  of  men  who  possess  a 
copy  of  this  book  say  it  is  their  greatest  help. 
Printed  on  bond  paper,   bound  in  flexible  cover. 

The  Hotel  Butcher,  Garde  Manger  and  Carver 

(Frank  Rivers)  $2.00 

The  author  has  cultivated  a  new  field  in  culinary 
literature,  and  produced  a  book  both  novel  and 
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shop  to  the  dining-room  table,  that  will  be  in- 
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I)ersons  employed  in  culinary  work.  His  book 
digests  the  subjects  of  buying,  handling,  sale, 
and  service  of  meats,  poultry  and  fish  for  hotels, 
restaurants,  clubs  and  institutions.  It  is  varied 
with  suggestions  for  the  use  of  meats  and  trim- 
mings for  particular  dishes;  the  composition  of 
these  dishes  set  forth  in  concise  form.  The  infor- 
mation is  clarified  by  the  use  of  about  300  illus- 
trations. The  index  is  so  comprehensive  that  any 
item  may  be  referred  to  on  the  instant.  125  pages. 

Ideas  for  Refreshment  Rooms $1.00 

This  book  is  composed  mainly  of  expositions  of 
catering  systems,  in  particular,  tea  room,  lunch 
room,  department  store,  cafeteria,  school,  indus- 
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out  the  book  there  is  a  plea  for  the  balanced 
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foods  simply  prepared  and  appetizlngly  served, 
the  nutritive  value  given  careful  consideration. 
There  is  a  chapter  on  service;  a  chapter  on  the 
brewing  and  serving  of  tea  and  coffee ;  several 
pages  devoted  to  pantry  prepared  foods ;  illustra- 
tions of  kitchens,  of  restaurant  checks,  and  of 
many  interesting  things,  as  electric  equipment; 
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hundred  and  one  clever  ideas  in  the  marketing 
of  prepared  foods  in  public  eating  houses.  The 
book  is  thoroly  Indexed  and  cross  Indexed  to 
assure  quick  finding.  385  pages,  cloth  bound. 

The  Culinary  Handbook  (Fellows)  $2.00 

Presents  In  concise  form  information  regarding 
the  preparation  and  service  of  nearly  4,000  dif- 
ferent bill-of-fare  dishes ;  also  gives  much  Infor- 
mation of  encyclopedic  nature  regarding  foods 
of  all  kinds.  Quick  reference  to  every  dish  de- 
scribed is  facilitated  with  an  Index  of  39  columns 
arranged  In  alphabetical  order,  and  cross  Indexed 
so  that  no  matter  what  one  Is  looking  for,  all  he 
has  to  do  Is  to  find  the  initial  letter  and  under  It, 
in  alphabetical  order,  for  second,  third  and  fourth 
letters,  etc.,  the  article  wanted,  with  page  on 
which  It  is  found.  Referring,  for  instance,  to  a 
sauce  of  any  particular  kind.  Find  the  word  Sauce 
In  the  Index,  and  under  It  will  be  found  In  alpha- 
betical order  149  different  sauces;  and  under 
Salads  71  different  kinds,  exclusive  of  the  varia- 
tions in  making.  Under  head  of  Sausage  there  are 
45  different  kinds  described,  with  directions  for 
making  as  well  as  cooking  and  serving.  In  fact, 
the  sausage  Information  In  this  book  Is  more 
complete  than  In  any  other  published.  190  pages ; 
7  X  10  inches. 

The  Menu  Maker  (Fellowi) $2.00 

This  is  the  last  of  the  successful  ready  reference 
books  compiled  by  Chas.  Fellows,  author  of  "A 
Selection  of  Dishes  and  the  Chef's  Reminder" 
and  "The  Culinary  Handbook."  In  this  book  Mr. 
Fellows  has  compiled  in  concise  form  thousands 
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fare,  both  American  and  European  plan,  for 
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ranged as  to  give  popular  changes  from  day  to 
day  to  give  acceptable  variety.  The  book  Is  sup- 
plemented with  110  pages  of  sample  menus  and 


bills-of-fare,  several  of  them  photographic  repro- 
ductions, and  representing  the  cards  of  hotels  and 
restaurants  of  both  first  and  second  class,  lunch 
rooms,  transportation  catering  menus,  club  menus, 
wine  list,  caterer's  list,  and  several  illustrations 
of  glass,  china  and  silverware  and  banquet 
scenes.  The  book  is  Indexed ;  printed  on  fine 
quality  paper;    page    7x10   inches,   cloth  bound. 

Paul  Richards'  Pastry  Book $2.00 

This  is  the  title  in  brief  of  "Paul  Richards'  Book 
of  Breads,  Cakes,  Pastries,  Ices  and  Sweetmeats, 
Especially  Adapted  for  Hotel  and  Catering  Pur- 
poses." The  author  is  known  as  one  of  the  most 
skillful  all  around  bakers,  pastry  cooks  and  con- 
fectioners in  America,  and  has  demonstrated  the 
quality  of  his  work  in  leading  hotels.  In  writing 
this  book  he  took  particular  pains  to  have  the 
recipes  reliable  and  worded  in  such  simple  fashion 
that  all  who  read  them  may  readily  understand 
and  work  from  them.  The  book  is  in  seven  parts. 
Part  I  is  devoted  to  fruit  jellies  and  preserves; 
jams,  jellies,  compotes  and  syrups ;  preserved 
crushed  fruits  for  sherbets  and  ices ;  preserving 
pie  fruits ;  sugar  boiling  degrees ;  colors.  Part  II, 
pastry  and  pie  making,  pastes  and  fillings ;  pastry 
creams,  patty  cases,  tarts  and  tartlets ;  icings. 
Part  III,  cake  baking;  Part  IV,  puddings  and 
sauces.  JPart  V,  ice  creams,  ices,  punches,  etc. 
Part  VI,  breads,  rolls,  buns,  etc.  Part  VII,  candy 
making  and  miscellaneous  recipes ;  bread  econo- 
mies in  hotel ;  caterers'  price  list.  The  recipes  are 
readily  found  with  the  aid  to  36  columns  of  Index 
and  cross  index  in  the  back  of  the  book,  this 
index  forming  in  itself  a  complete  directory,  so 
to  speak,  of  breads,  pastry,  ices  and  sugar  foods. 
Printed  on  strong  white  paper ;  pages  7  x  10 
inches,  168  pages,  bound  in  cloth. 

Pastry  for  the  Restaurant  (Richards) $1.00 

A  vest  pocket  book  of  158  pages,  is,  as  Its  title 
Indicates,  especially  produced  for  the  use  of  bak- 
ers employed  in  restaurants  and  European  plan 
hotels.  The  style  of  work  required  for  the  Amer- 
ican plan  hotel  with  table  d'hote  meal,  and  that 
for  the  European  plan  hotel  restaurant,  where 
each  article  is  sold  for  a  separate  price,  has 
brought  about  a  demand  for  a  book  with  recipes 
and  methods  especially  adapted  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  bakery  and  pastry  goods  for  individual 
sale.  The  first  chapter  is  devoted  to  French 
pastries,  which  are  now  so  generally  sold,  yet  so 
little  understood,  because  of  the  misnomer  title; 
then  follows  cakes  and  tarts  of  every  kind ;  pies. 
In  great  variety ;  puddings,  hot  and  cold ;  ices, 
ice  creams,  and  many  specialties,  all  set  forth 
with  ingredients,  quantities,  and  methods  of  mix- 
ing and  preparing,  and  Instructions  for  oven  or 
temperature  control.  Mr.  Richards'  other  books 
ha^'e  become  standard  the  world  over,  and  this 
one  will  be  equally  reliable.  The  index  to  this 
book  makes  a  very  complete  reference  to  popular 
pastry  goods  and  will  be  found  valuable  as  a  re- 
minder. The  book  Is  printed  on  bond  paper. 

Candy  for  Dessert  (Richards) $1.00 

Ice  Cream  for  Small  Plants  (Etto  H.  Handy) $2.50 

Whether  you  make  your  own  ice  cream  or  buy  it 
on  specification  from  a  local  manufacturer,  you 
need  this  book.  It  has  many  practical  suggestions 
for  retailing  and  service ;  also  special  chapters 
on  the  selection  of  manufacturing  and  storage 
equipment.  There  are  23  pages  of  pictures  of 
specialty  dishes.  The  book  shows  how  high  grade 
frozen  foods  can  be  made  economically  and  ad- 
vantageously In  small  quantity,  as  In  the  hotel 
or  restaurant.  It  Is  a  practical  handbook  on  the 
making  of  Ice  cream,  and  Is  written  in  non- 
technical language  so  that  It  can  be  easily  under- 
stood by  those  not  familiar  with  ice  cream  pro- 
duction. The  formulas  are  written  for  use  In  a 
forty-quart  freezer,  but  may  be  easily  adapted 
to  one-half  or  one-quarter  that  amount,  or  for 
even  smaller  quantity.  The  recipes  are  carefully 
standardized  and  have  been  successfully  used  to 
yield  products  of  uniformly  high  quality  that  can 
be  sold  at  a  consistent  profit.  For  those  who  buy 
ice  cream  from  a  local  manufacturer,  and  want 
to  control  the  quality.  Ice  Cream  For  Small  Plants 
enables  them  to  specify  formulas  for  an  almost 
unlimited  variety  of  frozen  desserts.  180  pages, 
5  X  7  V6  inches,  durable  cloth  binding. 


lb*  Vest  Pocket  Pastry  Book  (MeUter) $1.00 

This  little  book  contains  500  recipes,  includes  57 
for  hot  puddings,  pudding  sauces,  etc. ;  77  for 
cold  puddings,  side  dishes,  jellies,  etc. ;  90  for  ice 
creams,  water  ices,  punches,  etc. ;  68  for  pastes, 
patties,  pies,  tarts,  etc.;  77  for  cakes;  17  for 
Icings,  colorings,  sugars,  etc. ;  60  for  bread,  rolls, 
yeast  raised  cakes,  griddle  cakes,  etc.,  as  well  as 
55  miscellaneous  recipes.  Mr.  Meister  wrote  this 
book  at  the  request  of  the  editor  of  The  Hotel 
Monthly,  who  had  heard  his  work  highly  compli- 
mented by  his  employers,  who  said  they  believed 
him  to  have  no  superior  as  a  first-class  work- 
man. The  recipes,  while  given  in  few  words,  yet 
are  easily  understandable  and  have  helped  thou- 
sands of  bakers  to  improve  their  work.  Book  is 
indexed ;  printed  on  bond  paper. 

The  Vest  Pocket  Vegetable  Book  (Moore) $1.00 

This  book  has  done  more  to  popularize  the  cook- 
ing and  serving  of  vegetables  in  hotels  and  res- 
taurants than  any  other  book  ever  published.  It 
was  written  with  this  idea.  The  author  took 
particular  pains  to  make  this  little  volume  a 
classic  and  his  masterpiece,  and  he  succeeded  re- 
markably well.  Into  120  pages  he  has  condensed 
more  information  regarding  the  history,  cultiva- 
tion, nutritive  qualities  and  approved  forms  of 
cooking  and  serving  vegetables  than  can  be 
found  in  any  other  book,  no  matter  how  large ; 
and  it  has  been  demonstrated  to  be  a  book  with- 
out mistakes.  Recipes  for  soups,  sauces,  garnish- 
ings  and  salads  supplement  the  general  recipes. 
There  are  78  ways  of  preparing  potatoes,  19  of 
mushrooms,  19  of  onions,  15  of  cabbage,  etc.,  27 
of  beans,  15  of  rice,  25  of  tomatoes,  and  others 
in  number  in  proportion  to  their  importance. 
The  vegetables  are  given  with  their  English 
names  and  the  French  and  German  translations. 
The  book  is  indexed  and  printed  on  bond  paper. 

The  Book  of  Sauces  (Senn) $1.00 

Mr.  Senn  is  the  author  of  the  famous  Twentieth 
Century  Cookery  Book,  The  Menu  Book,  Practical 
Gastronomy,  and  ten  other  culinary  books  that 
have  become  standard  in  Europe,  and  that  have 
extensive  sale  in  America.  His  Book  of  Sauces 
is  the  most  complete  work  of  the  kind  that  has 
ever  been  produced.  It  treats  the  subject  thoroly 
from  every  angle  and  covers  all  kinds  of  sauces 
for  meat,  poultry,  fish  and  salad  dishes ;  also 
sweet  sauces.  This  book  is  adapted  not  alone 
for  the  hotel  and  catering  trades,  but  also  for 
family  use  the  world  over.  Epicures  will  find  it 
invaluable  for  the  suggestions  and  practical  In- 
structions, together  with  the  culinary  lore  there- 
in contained.  Book  is  vest  pocket  size,  printed 
on  bond  paper. 

The  Fish  and  Oyster  Book  (Eientz) $1.00 

The  author  was  for  many  years  chef  of  Rector's 
(the  noted  sea  foods  restaurant  in  Chicago),  is  a 
handy  vest  pocket  volume,  the  leaf  measuring 
3  X  6  %  inches.  In  this  book  Mr.  Kientz  tells  in 
concise  manner  how  to  cook  practically  every 
kind  of  fish  that  is  brought  to  the  American 
market;  and  not  only  explains  the  method  of 
cooking,  but  also  the  making  of  the  sauces  and 
the  manner  of  service.  Every  recipe  is  given  with 
its  bill-of-fare  name  in  English  and  its  translation 
into  the  French.  The  recipes  include  also  such 
dishes  as  frogs'  legs,  all  kinds  of  shell  fish,  snails, 
terrapin,  and  the  fish  force-meats.  Also  there  is 
an  appendix  with  specimen  fish  and  oyster  house 
luncheon  and  dinner  menus,  with  and  without 
wines.  The  book  is  indexed,  printed  on  bond 
paper,  bound  in  flexible  cover. 

Economical  Soups  and  Entrees  (Vachon) i  .$1.00 

This  book  was  written  in  response  to  a  demand 
for  a  book  that  would  tell  how  to  prepare  savory 
dishes  from  inexpensive  materials  at  small  cost; 
and,  in  particular,  how  to  use  up  leftovers ;  by 
which  is  meant  good  cooked  foods  not  served  at 
a  previous  meal,  and  which  have  not  in  any  way 
lost  their  marketable  value  in  the  sense  of  de- 
terioration of  quality,  but  which  can  be  served 
in  hotel  or  restaurant  in  the  same  appetizing 
manner  that  leftovers  are  served  in  well-to-do 
families.  Mr.  Vachon  was  selected  to  write  this 
book  because  of  his  reputation  as  an  economical 
chef.  In  it  he  has  given  recipes  in  particular  for 
meat  entrees  of  the  savory  order,  stews,  pies  and 


croquettes,  hash,  salads  and  fried  meats.  The 
soups  include  creams,  broths,  bouillons,  chowders, 
purees,  pepper-pots  and  the  like.  It  is  two  books 
in  one,  separately  indexed,  printed  on  bond  paper, 
leaf  3x7  inches,  bound  in  flexible  cover. 

Eggs  in  a  Thousand  Ways  (Meyer) $1.00 

This  book  gives  more  reliable  information  regard- 
ing eggs  and  their  preparation  for  the  table  than 
can  be  found  in  any  other  book.  Is  indexed  and 
cross  indexed  so  that  any  method  of  cooking  eggs 
and  any  of  the  garnishings  can  be  referred  to  on 
the  instant.  The  book  starts  with  boiled  eggs. 
Then  (following  the  departmental  index  in  al- 
phabetical order)  are  cold  eggs,  79  ways;  egg 
drinks,  22  kinds;  eggs  in  cases,  25  ways;  in 
cocottes,  24  ways;  mollet,  79  ways;  molded  in 
timbales,  29  ways ;  fried,  33 ;  fried  poached,  38 ; 
hard  eggs,  32 ;  miscellaneous  recipes,  27 ;  omelets 
in  210  ways ;  poached,  227  ways ;  scrambled,  123  ; 
shirred,  95 ;  stuffed,  hard,  34 ;  surprise  omelets, 
9;  sweet  eggs,  16;  sweet  omelets,  38.  The  recipes 
are  in  condensed  form.  The  book  Is  vest  pocket 
size,  150  pages,  printed  on  bond  paper. 

Drinks  Qacques  Straub) $1.00 

This  book  is  full  of  genuine  pre-prohibition  re- 
cipes for  mixed  Drinks.  The  author  was  wine  ste- 
ward of  the  famous  Blackstone  Hotel  Bar  In 
Chicago.  It  is  an  authoritative  treatise  on  how 
mixed  drinks  should  be  made.  In  addition  to  700 
practical  recipes,  it  has  a  preface  by  "Oscar"  of 
the  Waldorf,  and  an  opening  chapter  outlining 
the  care  and  medicinal  value  of  wines. 

We  recommend  "Drinks"  as  the  book  being 
used  by  the  finest  hotels  and  clubs,  by  connois- 
seurs of  beverages,  and  as  a  book  that  is  author- 
itative and  exceedingly  practical  because  it  was 
written  by  one  who  knew  how,  and  was  first 
published  In  the  days  before  prohibition,   (1914). 

The  Menu  Translator  (Duchamp  &  lenning) $3.00 

This  book  was  formerly  known  as  the  "Uni- 
versal Dictionary  of  Menus"  and  served  as  a 
guide  to  thousands  of  menu-makers,  stewards, 
and  chefs.  Today,  it  has  been  completely  re- 
vised, greatly  enlarged  and  lists  about  12,000 
translations  In  French,  English  and  German. 
Items  are  carefully  arranged  under  25  head- 
ings, making  it  easy  to  find  any  item.  Now  in 
its  seventh  edition,  and  one  of  the  newest  and 
most  complete  works  of  its  kind.  137  pages, 
5x7%   inches. 

Advertising  of  Hotels  (Clarence  Madden) $2.00 

This  is  the  first  practical,  comprehensive  Inquiry 
into  hotel  advertising  ever  made  available.  It  is 
the  only  book  which  treats  the  problem  of  selling 
rooms  and  service  in  Its  entirety — promotion, 
publicity,  "In-the-house",  "word-of-mouth",  copy, 
appropriation,  media  selection,  and  agency  con- 
tact. Mr.  Madden  is  acquainted  with  both  sides 
of  the  advertising  picture.  His  book  brings  the 
two  Into  sharp  focus  and  shows  their  proper  re- 
lationship. .  .  Anyone  who  is  In  any  way  affected 
by  hotel  advertising  should  be  sure  to  have  on 
hand  a  copy  of  "THE  ADVERTISING  OP 
HOTELS"    for    study,    reference,    and    guidance. 

The  Van  Orman  System  of  Hotel  Control $  .50 

A  book  Illustrating  and  describing  the  many  forms 
used  in  the  hotels  of  the  Van  Orman  Chain  of 
hotels. 

American  Plan  Check  System  (Lewis) $1.00 

Hospitality  (McGoyem)   $1.00 

The  American  Waiter  (Coins) $1.00 

This  is  the  only  published  book  that  treats  in- 
telligently of  the  waiter's  work  from  bus  boy  to 
head  waiter,  for  both  hotel  and  restaurant  re- 
quirements. Interspersed  are  chapters  on  the  care 
of  table  wares,  salad  making,  table  setting,  carv- 
ing, dishing  up,  handling  of  sea  foods,  building 
of  banquet  tables,  and  many  other  useful  Items 
of  Information.  The  book  Is  Illustrated,  vest 
pocket  size,  printed  on  bond  paper. 

The  Hotel  Monthly  Bookshop 

John  WiUy,  Iiic. 
950  Merchandise  Mart  Chicago  54,  Illinois 


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